EMPEROR  OK  BRAZIL 
Boro.  Dec.  2^1825. 


After  Piiotog.1853. 


BRAZIL 


THE     BRAZILIANS 


PORTRAYED  IN 


HISTORICAL    AND    DESCRIPTIVE 
SKETCHES. 


REV.    JAMES    C.    FLETCHER 

AND 

REV.    D.    P.    KIDDER,  D.  D. 

ILLUSTRATED   BV   ONE   HUNDRED  AND   FIFTY  ENGRAVINGS. 

EIGHTH    EDITION. 
REVISED    AND    ENLARGED. 


BOSTON: 
LITTLE,    BROWN,    AND    COMPANY. 

LONDON  :    SAMPSON,    LOW,    SON,   &    CO. 
1868. 


f^^v 


l3 


■'I- 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1866.  by 

J.    C.    FLETCHER     ^^D    D.    P.    KIDDER, 

lu  ttic  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  uourt  of  the  District  of  Massachusetts 


University  Press  :  Welch,  Bigelow,  &  Co., 

Cambridge. 


PREFACE 

TO    THE    EIGHTH    EDITION 


Within  the  last  fifteen  months  two  new  editions  (the  sixth 
and  seventh)  of  "  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians  "  have  been 
exhausted.  While  translations  of  portions  have  been  made  in 
various  languages,  and  while  an  author  in  England  has  almost 
wholly  "  made  up "  a  general  book  on  Brazil  from  this  work, 
nothing  has  shown  a  more  flattering  appreciation  of  it  than  the 
offer  of  Professor  Laboulaye  —  the  firm  friend  of  America  —  to 
write  an  introduction  for  a  French  translation  of  "  Brazil  and 
THE  Brazilians," 

Since  the  publication  of  the  Sixth  Edition  (to  the  Preface  of 
which  the  reader  is  referred)  several  very  important  events  have 
occurred  in  Brazil,  which  the  authors  have  thought  best  to  men- 
tion in  this  place,  although  they  have  noted  them  in  the  proper 
chapters. 

The  Opening  of  the  Amazon,  which  occurred  on  the  7th  of  Septem- 
ber, 1867,  and  by  which  the  Great  River  is  free  to  the  flags  of  all  nations 
from  the  Atlantic  to  Peru,  and  the  Abrogation  of  the  Monopoly  of 
THE  Coast  Trade  from  the  Amazon  to  the  Rio  Grande  do  Sul  (see  page 
589),  whereby  four  thousand  miles  of  Brazilian  sea-coast  are  open  to  the 
vessels  of  every  country,  cannot  fail  not  only  to  develop  the  resources  of  Brazil, 
but  these  measures  will  prove  a  great  benefit  to  the  bordering  Hispano- 
American  Republics  and  to  the  maritime  nations  of  the  earth.  The  open- 
ing of  the  Amazon  is  the  most  significant  indication  that  the  leaven  of  old 
narrow,  monopolistic  Portuguese  conservatism  has  at  last  worked  out.  Por- 
tugal would  not  allow  Humboldt  to  enter  the  Amazon  valley  in  Brazil.  The 
result  of  the  new  policy  is  beyond  the  most  sanguine  expectation.  The  exports 
and  imports  of  Para  for  October  and  November,  186  7,  were  double  those  of 
1866.  This  is  but  the  beginning.  Soon  it  will  be  found  that  it  is  cheaper  for 
all  Bolivia,  Peru,  Equador,  and  New  Grenada  east  of  the  Andes  to  receive 


iv  ^  Preface  to  the  Eighth  Edition. 

their  goods  from,  and  to  export  their  India-rubber,  cinchona,  &c.,  &c.,  to 
the  United  States  and  Europe  via  the  great  water  highway  which  dis- 
charges into  the  Atlantic,  than  by  the  long,  circuitous  route  of  Cape  Horn, 
or  the  Trans-Isthmian  route  of  Panama.  The  Purus  and  the  Madeira  are  here- 
after to  be  navigated  by  steamers.  The  valley  of  the  Amazon  in  Brazil 
is  as  large  as  the  area  of  the  United  States  east  of  Colorado,  while  the 
whole  valley  of  the  Amazon,  in  and  out  of  Brazil,  is  equal  to  all  the 
United  States  east  of  California,  Oregon,  and  Washington  Territory;  and 
yet  the  population  is  not  equal  to  the  single  city  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  or  the 
combined  inhabitants  of  Boston  and  Chicago.  It  is  estimated  that  a  larger 
population  can  be  sustained  in  the  valley  of  the  Amazon  than  elsewhere  on 
the  globe ;  but  it  will  never  be  peopled  until  there  is  as  complete  freedom 
for  emigrants,  and  as  entire  absence  of  red-tapeism  in  Brazil  as  exist  in  the 
United  States. 

The  System  of  Emigration  is  improving.  In  1866  there  were  mis- 
takes on  the  part  of  the  agents  for  Brazil  at  New  York.  They  were  not 
careful  enough.  They  accepted  any  one  and  every  one  that  applied  for 
passage  under  the  liberal  offers  (which  still  hold  good)  of  the  Brazilian  gov- 
ernment, and  there  were  mistakes  on  the  part  of  many  well-meaning,  almost 
penniless  adventurers  from  our  cities  and  from  our  own  South,  who  sup- 
posed that  there  was  a  royal  road  to  pi-osperity  in  the  tropics  without  labor, 
and  that  slavery  was  a  permanent  institution  in  Brazil.  But,  notwithstand- 
ing the  croakers  who  have  returned,  many  Southerners  have  succeeded  and 
are  succeeding  in  Brazil. 

Slavery  has  decreased  with  great  rapidity  during  1866-67,  and  the  best 
estimates  make  the  present  number  of  slaves  1,400,000,  —  a  reduction  by 
the  mild  process  of  law  and  custom  of  1,600,000  since  1853.  The  Emperor 
took  the  initiative  at  the  last  session  of  Parliament,  and  invoked  legislation 
upon  this  most  important  subject.  Dr.  A.  M.  Perdigao  Malheiro,  an  eminent 
advocate  at  Rio,  has  published  a  most  important  and  convincing  pamphlet  on 
this  question,  entitled  A  escravidao  no  Brazil  (Slavery  in  Brazil). 

Direct  taxation  for  the  first  time  in  Brazil  has  been  brought  about  by 
the  exigencies  of  the  Paraguayan  war,  —  a  conflict  which  has  done  more  to 
give  Brazil  a  national  feeling  than  any  event  since  1822. 

The  Paraguayan  War.  —  The  history  and  the  aims  of  this  contest,  now 
waging,  have  been  more  persistently  misrepresented  than  those  of  any  other  war 
of  modern  times,  with  the  single  exception  of  the  misrepresentation  in  England 
of  the  late  internal  struggle  in  the  United  States.  From  November,  1864  (the 
beginning  of  the  war),  to  November,  1865,  the  various  battles  and  victories 
were  impartially  described  in  the  English  journals,  from  which  source  other 
countries,  not  South  American,  have  derived  their  information.  Bat  in  the 
autumn  of  18G5  the  Brazilian  government  applied  in  London  for  a  loan  of 
£4,000,000.  Such  was  the  competition  for  this  loan,  and  such  the  confidence 
of  English  financiers  in  Brazil,  that  £  30,000,000  were  subscribed.  The  loan, 
of  course,  immediately  went  above  par.  From  that  time  to  this  "  opera- 
tors" at  Buenos  Ayres  and  Montevideo,  one  thousand  miles  from  the  seat 
of  war,  had  a  motive  in  sending  rumors  and  partial  statements  detrimental 
to   the  allies  by  the  English   steamer  to  Lisbon,  whence   their   correspond- 


Preface  to  the  Eighth  Edition.  v 

encc  would  be  telcj^raplied  to  London  ;  and  the  result  would  be  the  depres- 
sion of  the  Brazilian  loan  for  a  few  days,  then  when  the  "  rise "  took 
place  the  "  operators "  and  their  friends  could  profit  by  their  former  trans- 
action. In  regard  to  the  contest,  Brazil  had  no  other  alternative  tiian  war 
with  Lopez,  who  is  as  truly  a  despotic  dictator  as  Francia  was.  The  origin 
of  the  war  is  impartially  set  forth  on  page  353.  The  present  position  of  the 
allies  is  very  much  that  of  the  armies  of  the  United  States  at  the  end  of 
lSfi4,  when  Sherman  made  his  famous  "march  to  the  sea"  and  Grant  was 
before  Richmond.  Brazil  in  18G7  sent  an  army  to  the  north  of  Paraguay 
and  retook  all  the  fortified  ports  seized  by  Paraguay  in  1864;  and  the  allied 
land  and  naval  forces  at  the  beginning  of  1868,  after  varied  experience, 
were  closing  upon  Humaita,  the  last  stronghold  of  the  Paraguayans,  —  a 
fortress  far  more  inapproachable  than  Sebastopol.  1868  will  doubtless  see 
a  complete  resolution  of  a  struggle  whose  end  is  the  liberation  of  Brazilian 
citizens  and  the  reopening  (which  Paraguay  had  guaranteed  by  solemn 
treaty  obligations)  of  the  great  natural  highway  to  the  sea  for  the  four 
nations  of  Eastern  South  America. 

Br.\ziliax  Coffee.  —  Brazil  has  also  had  her  peaceful  triumphs.  In  the 
great  Exposition  held  at  Paris  in  186  7  Brazil  attracted  much  attention  by 
the  display  of  her  material  resources.  She  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  num- 
ber of  prizes.  To  the  uninitiated  it  may  seem  strange  that  from  all  the 
countries  —  Arabia,  Java,  Ceylon,  Venezuela,  the  AVest  Indies,  and  Central 
America  —  contesting  for  the  production  of  the  best  coffee,  Brazil  bore  away 
the  palm.  But  it  has  long  been  known  to  dealers  that  coffee  does  not  de- 
pend upon  where  it  grows,  but  upon  the  length  of  time  it  remains  upon 
the  tree  and  upon  the  manner  of  Its  curing.  The  Southern  and  the  South- 
western States  became  acquainted  with  coffee  Imported  from  Rio  de  Ja- 
neiro fifty  years  ago,  at  a  time  when  Brazilians  did  not  know  how  to  cure 
coffee ;  but  the  taste  of  the  South  and  West  has  alone  kept  up  the  demand 
for  the  green,  poorly  cured  coffee  known  in  commerce  as  "  Rio."  The  Bra- 
zilians themselves  never  use  "  Rio,"  and  although  three  fourths  of  all  the 
coffee  imported  Into  the  United  States  come  from  Brazil,  yet  much  of  it 
Is  sold  as  Mocha  and  Java,  or  under  any  other  name  than  "  Rio."  The 
English,  Americans,  and  Germans  make  the  poorest  drink  from  coffee  in 
the  world,  while  the  Latin  nations,  who  never  hoil  their  coffee,  make  the 
best  beverage.     For  the  history  and  culture  of  coffee  see  pages  449,  451. 

CoTTOX  can  be  grown  In  any  portion  of  the  Empire  of  Brazil.  In  qual- 
ity it  ranks  far  above  our  "  uplands,"  and  In  the  Liverpool  market  the  best 
Brazilian  cottons  stand  next  —  though  at  a  distance  —  to  the  "  Sea-Island." 
Pcrnambuco  Is  the  chief  port  for  exportation.  There  are  no  great  cotton 
plantations,  but  the  most  of  its  culture  Is  carried  on  by  small  farmers  and 
by  free  negroes  and  half-breeds.  An  article  in  the  New  York  Ecening 
Po.s-/,  entitled  "Small  Farms  for  Cotton  Culture  "in  our  own  country,  called 
forth  a  communication  from  Mr.  Hitch,  of  the  house  of  Henry,  Forster,  &  Co. 
of  Pernambuco,  In  which  he  describes  the  Brazilian  plan  of  little  farms  cul- 
tivated by  from  one  to  six  persons.  This  has  an  Important  bearing  on  cot- 
ton culture  in  the  United  States.  Mr.  Hitch  shows  how  the  demand  caused 
by  the   "  cotton  famine "  brought  forth  the   supply  to  such  an   extent  that 


vi  Preface  to  the  Eighth  Edition. 

Pernambuco  in   five  years  increased  her  cotton   exportation   tenfold.     See 
page  525. 

GoARAxA.  —  At  the  French  Exposition  of  1867  a  brown  chocolate-colored 
Bubstance  figured  under  the  head  of  the  medicines  from  Brazil.  This  brown 
material  might  at  first  sight  have  been  taken  for  chocolate  cast  In  the  form 
of  serpents,  diminutive  turtles,  tapirs,  &c.  It  was,  however,  a  remedy  which 
has  been  used  for  centuries  in  Brazil  and  Bolivia,  and  which  has  lately  be- 
come one  of  the  most  fashionable  antifebrile  remedies  in  Paris.  Guarana  is 
the  indigenous  name  of  this  new  contribution  to  civilized  Pharmacy.  The 
junior  author  has  often  partaken  of  it  on  the  Amazon;  and  as  many  have 
recently  inquired  concerning  the  Guarand,  a  short  notice  of  it  may  be  inter- 
esting. Dr.  Cotting  of  Roxbury,  Mass.,  gives  a  brief  account  of  it  in  the 
Boston  Medical  and  Surgical  Journal  for  February  7,  1867,  pages  20,  21.  On 
the  west  bank  of  the  river  Tapajos  (excepting  the '  Madeira,  the  longest 
southern  affluent  of  the  Amazon)  lives  a  tribe  of  Indians  called  the  Mauhes 
or  Maues,  who  prepare  from  the  seeds  of  a  small  climbing  plant  (the  Paul- 
linia  sorhilis')  the  Guarana.  The  plant  bears  berries  somewhat  larger  than 
coffee-berries,  and  two  in  a  capsule,  not  unlike  the  coffee.  These  are 
roasted,  ground,  mixed  with  a  little  water,  made  into  various  shapes,  and 
dried  to  hardness  in  an  oven.  Grated  and  dissolved  in  water  or  lemonade, 
it  is  highly  esteemed  as  a  refreshing  and  stimulating  drink.  It  Is  much 
used  by  the  Inhabitants  of  Matto  Grosso  and  other  interior  provinces,  and 
sometimes.  It  is  said,  to  such  an  excess  as  to  produce  great  tremulousness.  It 
is  also  much  used  as  a  remedy  In  diarrhoea  and  intermittent  fever.  Dr.  James 
C.  White  of  Boston,  who  has  analyzed  the  Guarana,  has  given  the  public  his 
analysis  In  a  very  Interesting  paper. 


The  authors  cannot  close  this  Preface  without  recording  an  event  which 
may  seem  personal  to  them,  but  which  Is  also  one  of  sadness  to  all  those  who 
love  Brazil  In  the  things  that  are  far  beyond  her  material  development. 
Amongst  the  devoted  men  who  have  gone  from  the  United  States  to  "  the 
land  of  the  Southern  Cross,"  none  have  been  more  zealous,  wise,  and  suc- 
cessful In  "winning  souls"  than  Rev.  A.  G.  SImonton  of  Rio  de  Janeiro. 
He  founded  the  Presbyterian  mission  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  In  1859.  He  estab- 
lished the  Imprensa  Evangelica,  a  religious  journal  of  the  most  excellent 
character,  and  thus,  in  addition  to  his  constant  labors  In  the  pulpit,  he  did 
much  to  furnish  Brazil  with  an  Evangelical  literature.  A  few  days  before 
his  death,  when  in  apparent  health,  he  wrote  to  the  junior  author  a  most 
cheering  letter,  stating  that  during  1867  the  fruits  of  the  missions  (the  Ameri- 
can Presbyterian)  with  which  he  was  connected  were  no  less  than  112  con- 
versions, 82  of  whom  made  their  profession  "  before  men,"  and  the  remainder 
were  soon  to  follow  their  example.  He  died  in  San  Paulo  on  the  9th  of 
December,  1867.  The  individual  dies,  but  the  Church  lives,  and  his  labors 
will  still  bring  forth  fruit  to  be  gathered  by  the  earnest  harvesters,  his  coad- 
jutors, now  laboring  In  the  same  field. 

Newburyport,  Mass.,  March,  1868. 


PREFACE  TO  THE   SIXTH  EDITION. 


The  favorable  reception  which  five  editions  of  this  work  have 
had  in  the  United  States,  England,  and  Brazil,  indicates  a  growing 
interest  in  the  largest  and  most  stable  country  of  South  America. 
It  may  be  that  the  illustrations  accompanying  the  Preface  to  the 
first  edition  are  not  so  appropriate  to-day  as  they  were  ten  years 
ago,  but  there  is  still  too  much  ignorance  of  Brazil  in  Europe  and 
North  America.  The  present  edition  will  give  some  idea  of  the 
material  and  moral  progress  of  Brazil  during  the  last  decade. 

While  several  new  volumes  on  some  particular  portion  of  the 
country  have  been  written  since  1857,  no  other  work  in  our  lan- 
guage has  given  a  general  view  of  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians.  As 
much  of  the  political  and  social  life  of  the  Empire  centres  at  Rio  de 
Janeiro,  the  history  and  descriptions  of  the  state  of  affairs  at  the 
capital  are,  to  a  great  extent,  those  of  the  whole  country.  It  is  for 
this  reason  that  the  reader  is  detained  longer  in  the  city  where  the 
Monarch  resides  and  the  Parliament  holds  its  sessions. 

Since  1857,  one  of  the  authors  (J.  C.  F.)  has  visited  Brazil  in 
four  different  years,  passing  much  time  at  Rio  de  Janeiro;  sojourn- 
ing on  plantations,  and  observing  the  phases  of  Brazilian  slavery ; 
making  extensive  journeys  along  the  sea-coast,  and  penetrating  the 
interior.  In  1862  he  ascended  the  Amazon  to  the  verge  of  Peru, 
—  more  than  two  thousand  miles  up  the  most  marvellous  river  in 
the  world. 


viii  Preface  to  the  Sixth  Edition. 

It  was  the  intention  of  the  authors  to  pubhsh  a  new  edition  in 
1864 ;  but  unexpected  duties,  both  in  that  and  the  following 
years,  called  the  junior  colleague  to  Brazil,  and  prevented  the  de- 
sired end.  The  advantages  of  later  information  will,  it  is  hoped, 
more  than  compensate  for  the  delay. 

The  experience  of  the  authors  in  Brazil  extends  over  a  long 
period,  and  they  have  endeavored  conscientiously  and  impartially 
to  give  their  views  of  the  country  and  its  people.  They  have  had 
no  motives  to  do  otherwise.  While  they  have  not  spared  what 
they  deemed  faults,  whether  in  religion,  slavery,  or  other  matters 
(see  concluding  chapter),  they  have  not  withheld  praise  when  due, 
and  it  has  not  been  from  intention  if  they  have  failed  to  bring  out 
the  good  points  of  the  Brazilians.  To  foreign  merchants  in  Brazil, 
unsuccessful  in  business,  or  to  travellers  hastening  through  the 
country,  ignorant  of  the  Portuguese  and  French  languages,  and 
never  associating  with  the  inhabitants,  the  descriptions  of  those 
who  have  resided  long  in  the  Empire,  or  have  travelled  extensively 
through  it,  seem  overwrought.  One  must  always  bear  in  mind 
the  origin  of  the  Brazilians,  their  newness  among  the  nations  of  the 
earth,  and  the  fact  that  the  only  true  mode  of  comparing  Brazil  is 
not  to  measure  her  progress  with  the  United  States,  England, 
or  France,  but  with  the  countries  of  America  whose  inhabitants 
are  of  the  Latin  race. 

To  have  detailed  with  only  an  ordinary  degree  of  minuteness 
the  changes  and  progress  of  Brazil  for  the  last  ten  years,  would 
require  a  large  volume.  As  it  is,  there  have  been,  by  emendations 
and  additions,  and  by  notes  and  appendices,  nearly  one  hundred 
pages  of  new  matter  printed  in  this  edition,  while  the  ordinary  text 
has  in  many  cases  been  changed  and  increased.  Everything,  so 
far  as  possible,  is  brought  up  to  date  (1866),  by  notes  at  the  end 
of  the  appropriate  chapter.  In  some  cases  letters  and  Itinerary  are 
retained,  irrespective  of  date,  because  they  illustrate  manners  and 


Preface  to  the  Sixth  Edition.  ix 

customs  tliat  remain  in  statu  quo.  When  greater  space  was  need- 
ed, the  subject  is  more  iuUy  set  forth  in  the  Aj)pendix.  Thus,  in 
regard  to  the  jjresent  Paraguayan  War  (ahout  whose  merits 
there  has  been  as  much  ignorance  *  in  both  the  United  States  and 
EngUxnd  as  there  was  in  Europe  concerning  the  late  Rebelhon  in 
North  Amei'ica),  the  reader  will  find  a  brief  history  of  its  origin 
and  progress  on  page  352. 

Brazilian  Slavery  is  treated  in  Chap.  VIII.,  and  the  most 
recent  information  concerning  it  is  given  on  page  139. 

Emigration  to  Brazil  has  of  late  attracted  much  attention, 
especially  in  the  South  of  the  United  States,  since  1865.  Infor- 
mation under  this  head  can  be  found  on  page  333,  and  in  the  con- 
cluding chapter,  in  the  Speech  of  Paula  Souza,  page  592. 

Intimately  connected  with  this  subject  is  that  of  the  Religious 
Disabilities  of  Protestants  ;  and  no  portion  of  this  work  is  so 
indicative  of  great  moral  progress  as  the  Speech  of  Sr.  Furquim 
d'Almeida  (page  595),  and  the  article  in  Appendix  I. 

For  important  Meteorological  Tables,  see  Appendix  K. 

The  Mineral  Riches  of  Brazil  are  known  to  be  considerable. 
Diamond  and  gold  mines  have  been  the  chief  sources  of  mineral 
wealth,  but  hitherto  there  has  been  a  deficiency  of  useful  minerals. 
The  desideratum  has  at  length  been  supplied.  Coal  discoveries 
have  been  made  in  various  sea-coast  provinces,  but  the  most  im- 
portant in  this  respect  was  made  by  Mr.  Nathaniel  Plant  (from 
the  British  Museum)  in  Rio  Grande  do  Sul.  For  a  full  account 
of  this  rich  coal  mine  see  Appendix  H.  In  the  same  Appendix  it 
will  be  seen  that  the  new  gold  mines  of  Sr.  Tasso,  in  Northern 

*  In  four  different  issues  of  the  journals  of  New  York  and  Boston,  in  August, 
1866,  it  was  stated  that  the  Allies  were  at  "  the  last  extremity,"  and  that  the  Para- 
guayans were  just  about  to  annihilate  them.  Up  to  this  time  (October,  1866),  the 
Paraguayans,  in  the  four  great  battles,  counting  from  that  of  Riachuelo,  1865,  have 
not  won  a  single  victory.  The  par  of  gold  at  Rio  is  26c?.  to  the  rail  reis  ;  the  average 
in  1865  -  66  was  23|t/.,  which  does  not  look  like  an  "  extremity." 


X  Preface  to  the  Sixth  Edition. 

Brazil,  demonstrate  that  the  precious  metal  is  by  no  means  con- 
fined to  the  region  of  S.  Joao  del  Rei. 

The  leading  Brazilian  Journals  at  the  capital  are  noticed  on 
pages  252,  253.  Brazilian  Literature  and  literary  Brazilians 
(pages  586,  589)  will  interest  many  Anglo-Saxon  readers. 

While  frequent  mention  is  made  of  the  ability  and  accomplish- 
ments of  the  Emperor  Dom  Pedro  II.,  Chapter  XIII.  is  espe- 
cially devoted  to  that  monarch. 

On  pages  183-185,  some  account  is  given  of  Statesmen  and 
Political  Parties. 

In  1865,  Professor  Agassiz,  the  well-known  savant,  accom- 
panied by  an  American  scientific  corps,  visited  Brazil  at  the  invi- 
tation of  the  Emperor.  The  Professor  made  extensive  and  most 
interesting  explorations,  an  account  of  which  is  soon  to  be  given  to 
the  world.  His  investigations  in  the  Amazon  region  have  excited 
a  great  interest  amongst  men  of  science.  Major  Coutinho,  a  Bra- 
zilian officer  of  engineers,  at  the  command  of  the  Emperor,  ac- 
companied Professor  Agassiz  in  his  explorations  of  the  Amazon, 
and  afterward  pubHshed  at  Rio,  both  in  Portuguese  and  English, 
some  account  of  the  wonderful  fauna  discovered  by  Professor 
Agassiz  in  Northern  Brazil.  The  English  version  of  a  portion  of 
these  letters  will  be   found  in  Appendix  J. 

For  Population,  Commercial  Tables,  Weights  and  Meas- 
ures, and  other  statistics,  see  Appendices  E,  F,  and  G. 

Within  a  few  years  several  works  on  the  Brazilian  Empire  have 
appeared  in  England,  France,  Germany,  and  Brazil.  Amongst  these 
may  be  mentioned  Bates's  "  Naturalist  on  the  Amazons,"  a  charm- 
ing book,  and  the  best  yet  published  on  that  wonderful  region.  The 
Deux  Annees  au  Bresil  of  Biard  is,  aside  from  its  fine  illustrations, 
the  most  worthless  book  ever  published  on  any  country.  The  author 
seems  not  to  have  had  one  serious  reflection.  Halfeld's  "  Survey 
of  the  River  San  Francisco  "  is  a  magnificent  elephant  folio,  pub- 


Pkeface  to  the  Sixth  Edition.  xi 

lislied  at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  of  which  Sir  Roderick  Murchison  said 
(before  the  Royal  Geograpliical  Society),  "  Any  country  might  be 
proud  of  sucii  a  work."  It  cannot  be  purchased,  but  a  number  of 
copies  have  been  sent  by  the  Brazihan  government  to  the  libraries 
of  the  United  States  and  Europe.  The  articles  of  M.  Elis^ 
Reclus,  published  in  the  Mevue  des  Deux  3Iondes,  in  1862,  show 
their  author  to  be  an  earnest  friend  of  liberty,  and,  also,  that  they 
were  written  after  a  very  brief  visit  to  Brazil.  The  conclusions 
are  somewhat  hasty,  especially  when  based  on  M.  Biard's  book, 
and  Dr.  Av6  Lallemant's  interesting  but  partial  Reise  durch  sud 
Brasilien,  Leipsic,  1859.  Quite  a  number  of  German  works  have 
appeared  concerning  the  "  colonization "  of  Germans  in  Brazil 
(which  was  in  many  cases  a  shameless  piece  of  jobbery),  and  the 
writers  are  not  disposed  to  look  upon  anything  in  Brazil  with  the 
least  degree  of  allowance.  Mr.  Thomas  Woodbine  IlinchlifF's 
"  South  American  Sketches "  (Longmans,  London,  1803)  is  a 
very  pleasing  and  accurate  book.  Sr.  Pereira  da  Silva  is  now 
writing  a  complete  history  of  Brazil,  in  the  Portuguese  language. 
Sr.  Aguiar  (of  San  Paulo),  in  a  pamphlet  entitled  0  Brazil  e  os 
Brazileiros^  has  given  some  very  caustic  sketches  of  his  country- 
men. Sr.  Soares,  of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  has  furnished  us  with  an 
important  statistical  work  on  the  resources  of  Brazil.  Sr.  M.  M. 
Lisboa  has,  in  his  Romances  Sistoricos,  opened  a  literary  mine,  in 
which  it  would  be  well  if  more  Brazilian  writers  would  delve.  Sr. 
A.  C.  Tavares  Bastos,  in  his  Cartas  do  SoUtario  (Letters  of  the 
Hermit),  has  given  the  Brazilian  public  a  most  important  volume 
on  the  various  political,  economical,  and  moral  questions  that  so 
deeply  concern  the  well-being  of  the  Empire.  A  very  excel- 
lent book  on  the  resources  of  Brazil  was  published,  in  1863,  by 
the  Baron  of  Penedo  (Brazilian  Minister  to  England),  apropos 
to  the  contribution  of  Brazil  to  the  Great  Exposition  of  London, 
in  1802. 


xii  Preface  to  the  Sixth  Edition. 

The  thanks  of  the  authors  are  due,  for  corrections  and  contribu- 
tions in  preparing  this  edition,  to  Mr.  Robert  WiUiam  Garrett  of 
Rio  de  Janeiro ;  to  Mr.  Brambier  of  Para ;  to  His  Excellency  Sr. 
d'Azambuja,  Brazilian  Minister  to  the  United  States  ;  to  the 
Chevalier  d'Aguiar,  Brazilian  Consul-General  at  New  York ;  and 
to  Professors  Gumere  and  Cope,  of  Haverford  College,  near  Phila- 
delphia. To  the  late  John  S.  Gillmer  of  Bahia  the  authors  were 
under  many  obligations. 

October,  186fi. 


niEEACE. 

The  popular  notion  of  Brazil  is, 
to    a  certain    extent,  delineated   in 
the  accompanying  side-illustrations. 
Mighty   rivers    and   virgin    forests, 
palm-trees   and    jaguars,  anacondas 
and    alligators,    howling    monkeys 
and   screaming   parrots,    diamond-mining, 
revolutions,  and  earthquakes,  are  the  com- 
ponent parts  of  the  picture  formed  in  the 
mind's  eye.     It  is  probably  hazarding  no- 
il thing  to  say  that  a  very  large  majority  of 
general  readers  are  better  acquaint- 
ed with  China  and  India  than  with 
Brazil.     How  few  seem  to 
be  aware  that  in  the  distant 
Southern  Hemisphere  is  a 
stable    constitutional  mon- 
archy, and  a  growing  na- 
tion, occupying  a  territory 
of  greater   area   than  that 
of  the  United  States,  and 

that  the  descendants  of  the 
s 


Preface. 


Portuguese  hold  the  same  relative  position  iu  South  America 
as  the  descendants  of  the  English  in  the  northern  half  of  the 
^ew  AVorld!  How  few  Protestants  are  cognizant  of  the 
fact  that  in  .the  territory  of  Brazil  the  Reformed  religion  was 
first  proclaimed  on  the  Western  Continent! 

The  following  work,  by  two  whose  experience  in  the  Bra- 
zilian Empire  embraces  a  period  of  twenty  years,  endeavors 
faithfully  to  portray  the  history  of  the  country,  and,  by  a  nar- 
rative of  incidents  connected  with  travel  and  residence  in  the 
land  of  the  Southern  Cross,  to  make  known  the  manners, 
customs,  and  advancement  of  the  most  progressive  people 
south  of  the  Equator. 

"While  "Itineraries"  relating  to  journej-s  of  a  few  months  in 
various  portions  of  the  Empire  have  been  recently  published, 
no  general  work  on  Brazil  has  been  issued  in  Europe  or 
America  since  the  "Sketches"  of  the  senior  author,  (D.P. K.,) 
which  was  most  favorably  received  in  England  and  the  United 
States,  but  has  long  been  out  of  print. 

Although  the  present  volume  is  the  result  of  a  joint  efibrt, 
the   desire   for  greater  uniformity  caused  the    senior   author 
to   place   his    contributions    in    the  hands  of  his 
junior   colleague,  (J.  C.E.,)  with  the   permission 
to    use   the    name    of    the    former  in   the  third 
■person   singular.      The   amount   of  mfJter  from 
each     pen    is,     however,    more 
nearly  equal  than  at  first   sight 
would  appear. 

The  authors  have  consult- 
ed every  important  work  in 
French,  German,  English,  and 
Portuguese,  that  could  throw 
light  on   the   history  of  Brazil, 


Preface.  6 

and  likewise  various  published  memoirs  and  discourses 
read  before  the  flourishing  "Geographical  and  Historical 
Society"  at  Rio  de  Janeiro.  For  statistics  they  have  either 
personally  examined  the  Imperial  and  provincial  archives,  or 
have  quoted  directly  from  Brazilian  state  papers. 

For  important  services,  the  authors  are  happy  to  acknow- 
ledsce  their  indebtedness  to  Couselheiro  J.  F.  de  Cavalcanti  de 
Albuquerque,  His  Brazilian  Majesty's  Minister-Plenipotentiary 
at  Washington,  and  M.  le  Chevalier  d'Aguiar,  Brazilian  Con- 
sul-General  at  New  York;  to  lion. Ex-Governor  Kent,  of 
Maine,  and  Ferdinand  Coxe,  Esq.,  of  Philadelphia,  both  of 
whom  held  high  diplomatic  positions  at  Rio  de  Janeiro;  to 
Hon.  Judge  J.  U.  Petit,  formerly  Consul  in  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant N'orthern  provinces  of  Brazil ;  to  Mrs.  L.  A.  Cuddehy, 
late  of  Rio  de  Janeiro;  and  to  Rev.  H.  A.  Boardman,  D.D.,  of 
Philadelphia.  They  also  express  their  obligations  to  Mr.  D. 
Bates,  Dr.  Thos.  Rainey,  and  to  A.  R.  Egbert,  M..D.,  for 
valuable  contributions  to  the  Appendix. 


The  numerous  illustrations  are,  with  few  exceptions,  either  from  sketches,  or 
daguerreotype  views  taken  on  the  spot.  All  have  been  faithfully  as  well  as  skil- 
fully executed  by  Messrs.  Van  Ingen  &  Snyder,  of  Philadelphia.  The  accompanying 
map,  prepared  by  Messrs.  J.  H.  Colton  &  Co.,  is  one  of  the  most  perfect  ever  pub- 
lished of  an  Empire  which  has  never  been  surveyed.  In  1855  the  junior  author 
travelled  more  than  three  thousand  miles  in  Brazil,  making  corrections  of  this  map 
as  he  journeyed;  and  his  sincere  thanks  are  heartily  given  to  Senhor  John  Lisboa, 
of  Bahia,  who  has  devoted  himself  to  the  geography  of  his  native  land. 

In  1866,  J.  H.  Colton  &  Co.  have  published  a  gigantic  map  of  Brazil,  which 
was  a  work  of  years  by  Mr.  Rensberg,  one  of  the  leading  lithographers  of  Rio 
de  Janeiro.  Messrs.  Fleuss,  Brothers,  publishers  of  the  Semana  Ilhistrada,  have 
jilso  issued  several  important  maps  from  their  establishment — the  Imperial  Imti- 
tuto  Artistico  at  Rio. 


NOTES  FOR  THOSE  GOING  TO  BRAZIL. 

The  Portuguese  langufiRe  is  universally  spoken  in  Brazil.  It  is  not  a  dialect  of  the  Spanish,  but  is 
a  distinct  tongue  :  as  Vieyra  says,  it  is  the  eldest  daughter  of  tlie  Latin.  Portuguese  and  French  are 
the  Court  languages.  One-sixth  of  the  population  of  large  citie.s  and  towns  speak  French.  Those 
acquainted  with  tlie  French,  Italian,  or  Spanish  easily  acquire  the  Portuguese.  Engli.sh  is  taught 
in  all  the  higher  schools;  and  it  is  gratifying  to  the  American  that  at  the  capital,  and  in  some  other 
important  places,  the  "Class  Readers  "  of  George  S.  Hillard,  Esq.,  (author  of  "Six  Months  in  Italy,") 
are  the  text-hooks.  While  Messrs.  Triibner  &.  Co., in  London,  and  the  Messrs.  Appleton,  in  New  York, 
have  published  manuals  for  learning  the  Portuguese,  it  may  be  of  advantage  to  state  that  if  an  Eng- 
lishman or  Anglo-American  can  give  to  the  vowels  the  Continental  sound,  learn  the  contractions, 
accents,  ic,  and  the  peculiarities  of  two  or  three  consonants,  he  will  find  the  Portuguese  the  easiest 
of  all  foreign  tongues.  The  termination  iio  is  pronounced  almost  like  oun  in  the  English  word  noun. 
Words  ending  in  Oes  are  pronounced  as  if  an  n  were  inserted  between  the  e  and  the  s.  Thus,  Caraoes, 
English  Camoens.  Terminations  «n  and  im  are  very  nearly  pronounced  like  eng  and  ing  in  English  : 
t.g.  Jerusalem  is  pronounced  Jerusalen^r.  JC  has  the  force  of  Sli :  thus,  one  of  the  great  affluents  of  the 
Amazon,  Xingfi,  is  pronounced  Shingu. 

The  word  Dom,  ((/onu'nMS,)  which  always  precedes  the  name  of  the  Emperor,  is  not  used  indiscrimi- 
nately like  the  Don  of  the  Spanish,  but  is  a  title  applied  by  the  Portuguese  and  their  descendants 
only  to  monarchs,  princes,  and  bishops. 

One  milrcis.  (a  thousand  reis,)  about  fifty-six  cents,  or  two  shillings  and  sixpence  English.  The 
Brazilian  unit-coin  is  always  represented  by  the  dollar  sign  after  the  mil :  thus,  54500  are  five  mil  and 
five  hundred  reis, — about  three  dollars.     A  conto  of  reis  is  little  more  than  £112. 

Clothes,  of  course,  should  be  of  a  character  adapted  to  the  tropics;  but  always  take  some  woollen 
garments,  for  in  the  interior,  and  south  of  Bahia,  the  thermometer  often  indicates  60°  Fahrenheit.  It 
hardly  need  be  added  that  a  dress-coat  is  indispensable  for  those  going  to  the  palace.  All  personal 
effects,  like  wearing-apparel,  are  admitted  dutyfree;  but  the  traveller  would  do  well  to  remember 
that  he  should  not  be  overstocked  with  cigars.  There  are  many  drawbacks  at  the  oustom-house  in 
favor  of  goods  belonging  to  emigrants,  as  agricultural  implements,  macliinery,  &c.  &c.  (vide  page  333 
and  the  concluding  chapter  of  this  work.) 

As  to  the  Patent  Laws,  mode  of  obtaining  certain  privileges  for  inventions,  Ac,  William  V.  Lid- 
gerwood,  Esq.,  (United  States  Charge  d'Afl'aires  in  1865-66,)  can  give  more  information  than  any  other 
person  in  Brazil.    He  resides  at  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

Messrs.  Triibner  &  Co.  (CO  Paternoster  Row,  London)  have  facilities  for  furnishing  Brazilian  and 
Portuguese  books  to  ajiy  parts  of  Europe  or  North  America.  We  are  glad  that  this  house  is  to  pub- 
lish a  new  and  complete  Portuguese  and  English  Dictionary, — a  very  great  desideratum,  as  all  such 
lexicons  now  extant  are  exceedingly  antiquated. 

English  and  American  publications  of  standard  works  and  light  literature  are  to  be  obtained  of 
n.  M.  Lane  &  Co.,  15  Rua  Direita,  Rio  de  Janeiro;  and  of  Guelph  de  Lailhacar  k  Co.,  Rua  do  Crespo, 
Pernambuco,  and  in  the  city  of  San  Paulo. 

Carrington  &.  Co."3  United  States  &  Brazili.an  Express  is  a  very  great  convenience  which  has  fol- 
lowed the  establishment  of  the  United  States  and  Brazil  Mail  Steamship  Company.  Messi-s.  Carring- 
ton t  Co.  t.30  Broadway,  New  York)  charge  tliemselves  to  deliver  parcels  and  money,  or  to  fill  orders 
in  Para.  Pernambuco.  Bahia.  and  Rio  de  J.aneiro,  and  vice  versd,.  Fales  and  Dunciin,  Commission  Mer- 
chants, 57  Rua  Direita,  are  the  agents  at  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

Hotels  in  Brazil  are  not  equal  to  those  in  Europe  or  the  States.  At  Rio  all  h.ave  high  prices, 
ranging,  according  to  room,  from  ten  shillings  English  to  £1.  The  Exchange  Hotel  and  Hotel  doa 
Estrangeiros  are  the  best  English  hotels  in  the  capital.  Hotel  d'Europa  is  the  best  Frencli  hotel. 
Bennett's,  an  hour  from  llio,  is  the  most  comfortable  place  in  Brazil.  Bahia,  Hotel  Furtin  is  a  good 
restaurant,  and  convenient  to  those  arriving  from  sea.  At  Pernambuco,  the  Hotel  Universel  has  the 
same  recommendations.  The  hotels  of  Bahia  and  Pernambuco  are  small,  compared  with  those  of  Rio. 
The  prices  of  1855  (pages  295  and  296)  are  from  one-third  to  one-half  higher  in  1866, — except  at 
Petropolis,  at  which  place  are  several  good  hotels. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PAQ8 

The  Bay  of  Rio  de  Janeiro — Historic  Reminiscences — First  Sight  of  the  Tropics — 
Entrance  to  the  Harbor — Night-Scenes — Impressions  of  Beauty  and  Grandeur — 
Gardner  and  Stewart — The  Capital  of  Brazil — Distinction  of  Rio  de  Janeiro 13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Landing — Hotel  Pharoux — Novel  Sights  and  Sounds — The  Palace  Square — Rua 
Direita  —  Exchange —  The  "  Team"  —  Musical  Coffee-Carriers —  Custom-House — 
Lessons  in  Portuguese,  and  Governor  Kent's  Opinion  of  Brazil — Post-OfiBce — Dis- 
like of  Change — Senhor  Jus6  Maxwell — Rua  do  Ouvidor — Shops  and  Feather- 
Flowers — The  Brazilian  Omnibus  can  be  full — Narrow  Streets  and  Police-Regu- 
lations— A  Suggestion  to  relieve  Broadway,  New  York — Passeio  Publico — Bra- 
zilian Politeness — The  "  Gondola" — The  Brazilian  imperturbable — Lack  of  Hotels 
— First  Night  in  Rio  de  Janeiro 24 

CHAPTER  III. 

Discovery  of  South  America — Pinzon's  Visit  to  Brazil — Cabral — Coelho — Americus 
Vespueius — The  Name  "  Brazil" — Bay  of  Rio  de  Janeiro — Martin  Affonso  de  Souza 
— Past  Glory  of  Portugal — Coligny's  Huguenot  Colony — The  Protestant  Banner 
first  unfurled  in  the  New  World  —  Treachery  of  Villegagnon  —  Contest  between  -- 
the  Portuguese  and  the  French — Defeat  of  the  Latter — San  Sebastian  founded — 
Cruel  Li tolerance — Reflections 4ft 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Early  State  of  Rio — Attacks  of  the  French — Improvements  under  the  Viceroys- 
Arrival  of  the  Royal  Family  of  Portugal — Rapid  Political  Changes — Departure  of 
Dom  John  VI. — The  Viceroyalty  in  the  Hands  of  Dom  Pedro — Brazilians  dis- 
satisfied with  the  Mother-Country — Declaration  of  Independence — Acclamation  of 
Dom  Pedro  as  Emperor 61 

CHAPTER  y. 

The  Andradas — Instructions  of  the  Emperor  to  the  Constituent  Assembly — Dom 
Pedro  I.  dissolves  the  Assembly  by  Force — Constitution  framed  by  a  Special  Com- 
mission— Considerations  of  this  Document — The  Rule  of  Dom  Pedro  I. — Causes  of 

Dissatisfaction — The  Emperor  abdicates  in  favor  of  Dom  Pedro  II 73 

7 


COXTENTS. 
CnAPTER  VI. 

PAGE 

The  Praia  dc  FUitinngo — The  Three-Man  Beetle — Splendid  Views — The  Man  who 
cut  down  "  Film-Tree — Moonlight — Rio  "  Tigers" — The  Bathers — Gloria  Hill^ 
Evening  S'-ene — The  Church — Marriage  of  Christianity  and  Heathenism — A  Ser- 
mon in  Honor  of  Our  Lady — Festa  da  Gloria — The  Larangeiras — Ascent  of  the 
Cercovado — 'i?Le  Sugar-Loaf 86 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Brotherhoods-  Foip'tal  of  San  Francisco  de  Paula — The  Lazarus  and  the  Rattle- 
snake— Misoric  T»Ma  —  Sailors'  Hospital  at  Jurujuba — Foundling-Hospital  —  Re- 
colhiiucnto  for  Crphan-Girls — New  Misericordia — Asylum  for  the  Insane — Jose 
d'Anchieta,  Fi  unolsr  of  the  Misericordia — Monstrous  Legends  of  the  Order — Friar 
John  d'Alu.e>dii — Churches — Convents 107 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Illumination  of  ♦.hi  Ci  y- —Early  to  Bed — Police — Gambling  and  Lotteries — Muni- 
cipal Government  —Vaccination — Beggars  on  Horseback— Erisons^Slavery — Bra- 
'^zilian  Laws  in  ffv<r  ■^f  Fieedom — The  Mina  Hereules-T^Snglish  SLive-Holders — 
--jSJavery  in  Brazil  Pov^Oi'td 124 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Religion — The  Corrupl.'a  >  i-f  (he  Clorgy — Monsignor  Bedini — Toleration  among  the 
Brazilians — The  Padr')-  -F'isi^vi's  —  Consumption  of  Wax  —  Tbe  Intrude — Pro- 
cessions— Anjinhos — Sauta  P-isv-ill.'anp, — The  Cholera  not  cured  by  Processions 140 

v^K<iPTER   X. 

The  Home-Feeling — Brazilian  Housts-  Tl.<i  Cirl— The  Wife — The  Mother — Moorish 
Jealousy — Domestic  Duties — Milk-C>rt  on  Lv>gs  — Brs^zilian  Lady's  Delight — Her 
Troubles — The  Marketing  and  Watering — Kill  thj  ^ixo — Boston  Apples  and  Ice 
— Family  Recreations — The  Boy — The  CoUogi.^—  Oopiti'or.-Schools — Highest  Aca- 
demies of  Learning — The  Gentleman — Duties  ol  th'*  C'ti.-en — Elections — Political 
Parties — Brazilian  Statesmen — Nobility — Ord°,r,- of  k'li^hthood 1^ 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Praia  Grande — San  Domingo — Sabbath-Keeping — Manv'i6\a-  -rinC3  v''9  Area- -View 
from  Ingd — The  Armadillo — Commerce  of  Brazil — The  F'ne.-'t  '^<tevn.''h'T)  ■Vovago 
in  the  World — American  Seamen's  Friend  Society — The  Fudish  Tec  et->rj- — Eng- 
lish Chapel — Brazilian  Funerals  —  Tijuca — Bennett's  —  Cascades —  Excursions — 
Botanical  Gardens — An  Old  Friend— Home •, 

CHAPTER  XII. 

The  Campo  Santa  Anna — The  Opening  of  the  Assemblea  Geral— Historj-  o'  PvciN 
succeeding   the    Acclamation  of  Dom  Pedro  II.  —  The  Regency  —  Con?«;it'vtt»i«s-' 
Reform — Condition  of  Political  Parties  before  the  Revolution  of  1S40 — Debates  i' 
the  House  of  Deputies — Attempt  at  Prorogation — Movement  of  Antonio  Carlos- 
Deputation  to  the   Emperor — Permanent  Session — Acclamation  of  Dom   Pedrc'* 


i 


Contents.  9 

PAQI 

Majority  —  Tbe  Assembly's  t'roclaiuation  —  Rejoicings  —  New  Ministry — Public 
Congratulations — Heal  State  of  Things — Ministerial  Programme — Preparations  for 
the  Coronation — Change  of  Ministry — Opposition  come  into  Power — Coronation 
postponed — Splendor  of  the  Coronation — Financial  Embarrassments — Diplomacy 
— Dissolution  of  the  Camara — Pretext  of  Outbreaks — Council  of  State — Restora- 
tion of  Order — Sessions  of  the  Assembly — Imperial  Marriages — Ministerial  Change 
— Present  Condition 211 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

The  Emperor  of  Brazil — His  Remarkable  Talents  and  Acquirements — Now  York 
Historical  Society — The  First  Sight  of  D.  Pedro  II. — An  Emperor  on  Board  an 
American  Steamship — Captain  Foster  and  the  "  City  of  Pittsburg" — How  D.  Pedro 
II.  was  received  by  the  "  Sovereigns'' — An  Exhibition  of  American  Arts  and  Manu- 
factures— DifiBcuUies  overcome — Visit  of  the  Emperor — His  Knowledge  of  American 
Authors — Success  among  the  People — Visit  to  the  Palace  of  S.  Christovao — Long- 
fellow, Hawthorne,  and  Webster 231 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Brazilian  Literature — The  Journals  of  Rio  de  Janeiro — Advertisements — The  Freedom 
of  the  Press — Effort  to  put  down  Bible-Distribution — Its  Failure — National  Library 
— Museum — Imperial  Academies  of  Fine  Arts — Societies — Brazilian  Historical  and 
Geographical  Institute — Administration  of  Brazilian  Law — Curious  Trial 251 

CHAPTER  XV. 

The  Climate  of  Brazil — Its  Superiority  to  other  Tropical  Countries — Cool  Resorts — 
Trip  to  St.  Alexio — Brazilian  Jupiter  Pluvius — The  Mulatto  Improvisor — Sydney 
Smith's  "Immortal"  Surpassed — ^  Lady's  IiUBressions  of  Travel — An  American 
Factory — A  Yankee  House — The  Ride  up  the  Organ  Mountains — Forests,  Flowers, 
and  Scenery — Speculation  in  Town-Lots — Boa  Vista — Height  of  the  Serra  dos 
OrgOes — Constaucia — The  "Happy  Valley" — The  Two  Swiss  Bachelors — Youth 
renewed  —  Prosaic  Conclusion  —  Todd's  "  Student's  Manual"  —  The  Tapir — The 
Toucan — The  Fire-Flies — Expenses  of  Travelling — Nova  Fribourgo — Cauta  Gallo 
— Petropolis 26S 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Preparations  for  tbe  Voyage  to  the  Southern  Provinces — The  Passengers — Ubatub.a 
— Eagerness  to  obtain  Bibles — The  Routine  on  Board — Aboriginal  Names — San 
Sebastian  and  Midshipman  Wilberforce — Santos — Brazilians  at  Dinner — Incorrect 
Judgment  of  Foreigners — S.  Vincente — Order  of  Exercises — My  Cigar — Paranagui 
— H.B.M.  "Cormorant"  and  the  Slavers — Mutability  of  Maps — Russian  Vessels  in 
Limbo — The  Prima  Donna — An  English  Engineer — Arrive  at  San  Francisco  do  Sul  303 

CHAPTER   XVII. 

The  Province  of  Parand — Message  of  its  First  President — Mate,  or  Paraguay  Tea — 
Its  Culture  and  Preparation — Grows  in  North  Carolina — San  Francisco  do  Sul— 
Expectations  not  fulfilled — Canoe-Voyage — My  Coiupanions  not  wholly  carnivo- 
rous—A Travelled  Trunk— The  Tolling-Bell  Bird— Arrival  at  Joinville— A  New! 
Settlement — Circular  on  Emigration  to  Brazil 320 


V. 


10  Contents. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

PAQJ 

Colonia  Donna  Francisca — The  School-Teacher — The  Clergyman — A  Turk — Bible- 
Distribution — Suspected — A  B  C — The  Fallen  Forest — The  House  of  the  Director 
— A  Runaway  —  The  Village  Cemetery  —  Moral  Wants  —  Orchidaceous  Plants — 
Charlatanism — San  Francisco  Jail — The  Burial  of  the  Innocent,  and  the  money- 
making  Padre — The  Province  of  Sta.  Catharina — Desterro — Beautiful  Scenery — 
Shells  and  Butterflies — Coal-Mines — Province  of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul — Herds  and 
Herdsmen — The  Lasso — Indians — Former  Provincial  Revolts — Present  Tranquil- 
lity assured  by  the  Overthrow  of  Rosas  and  of  the  Paraguayan  Lopez    Jr 334 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Jonrney  to  San  Paulo — Night-Travelling — Serra  do  Cubatao — The  Heaven  &f  the 
Moon  —  Frade  Vasconcellos  —  Ant-IIills  —  Tropeiros  —  Curious  Items  of  Trade — • 
Ypiranga — City  of  San  Paulo — Law-Studeuts  aud  Convents — Mr.  Mawe's  Espe- 
rienco  contrasted — Description  of  the  City — Respect  for  S.  Paulo — The  Vibionary 
Hotel-Keeper '. '. 354 


CHAPTER  XX. 

History  of  San  Paulo — Terrestrial  Paradise — Reverses  of  the  Jesuits — Enslavement 
of  the  Indians — Historical  Data — The  Academy  of  Laws — Course  of  Study — Dis- 
^  tinguished  Men  —  The  Andradas  —  Jose  Bonifacio  —  Antonio  Carlos  —  Alvares 
Machado — Vergueiro — Bishop  Moura — A  Visit  to  Feijo — Proposition  to  abolish 
Celibacy — An  Interesting  Book — The  Death  of  Antonio  Carlos  de  Andrada — High 
Eulogium — Missionary  Efforts  in  San  Paulo — Early  and  Present  Condition  of  the 
Province — Hospitalities  of  a  Padre — Encouragements — The  People — Proposition 
to  the  Provincial  Assembly — Response — Result — Addenda — Present  Eucourage- 
meuts 366 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Agreeable  Acquaintance — Old  Congo's  Spurs — Lodging  and  Sleeping — Company — 
Campinas  —  Illuminations  —  A  Night  among  the  Lowly — Arrival  at  Liraeira — 
A  Pennsylvanian — A  Night  with  a  Boa  Constrictor — Eventful  and  Romantic  Life 
of  a  Naturalist — The  Bird-Colony  destined  to  the  Philadelphia  Academy  of  Natural 
Sciences — Ybecaba — Sketch  of  the  Vergueiros — Plan  of  Colonization — Bridge  of 
Novel  Construction — Future  Prospects 396 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

A  New  Disease  —  The  Culture  of  Chinese  Tea  in  Brazil  —  Modus  Operandi  —  The 
Deceived  Custom-House  Officials — Probable  Extension  of  Tea-Culture  in  South 
America — Homeward  Bound — My  Companion — Senhor  Jose  and  a  Little  Diffi- 
culty with  him — California  and  the  Musical  Innkeeper — Early  Start  and  the  Star- 
Spangled  Banner — The  Senhores  Brotero  of  S.  Paulo — Fourth  of  July  inaugurated 
in  an  English  Family — "Yankee  Doodle"  on  the  Plains  of  Ypiranga — Lame  and 
Impotent  Conclusion — Astronomy  under  Difficulties — Deliverance — Return  to  Rio 
de  Janeiro 416 


Contents.  11 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

PAOI 

The  Brazilian  North — Extent  of  the  Empire— The  Falls  of  Itamarity — Gigantic  Fig- 
Xree— The  Keel-Bill — A  Plantation  iu  Miuas-Goraes— Peter  Parley  in  Brazil — 
Sweot  Leuions — Baronial  Style  —  The  Padre  —  Vesper-Hours  —  The  Plantation- 
Orchestra— The  White  Ants  obedient  to  the  Church — The  Great  Ant-Eator — The 
Paca — The  A'usical  Cart — The  Mines  and  other  llesources  of  Minas-Geraes — 
Cotfee:  its  Ilisiury  and  Culture — The  Province  of  Goyaz — Stingless  Beos  and  Sour 
Honey — Mato  Grosso — Long  River-Route  to  the  Atlantic — A  Now  Thoroughfare 
— Lieutenant  Thomas  J.  Page — The  Survey  of  the  La  Plata  and  its  Aflluonts — 
First  American  Steamer  at  Corumba — Steamboat-Navigation  on  the  Paraguay — 
Officers  of  the  American  Navy — Dr.  Kane  and  Lieutenant  Strain — Diamond  and 
Gold  Mines  the  Hinderers  of  Progress — The  Difierence  in  the  Results  from  Dia- 
monds and  ColTee 432 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Cape  Frio — Wreck  of  the  Frigate  Thetis — Campos — Espirito  Santo — Aborigines — 
Origin  of  Indian  Civilization — The  Palm-Tree  and  its  Uses — The  Tupi-Guarani — 
The  Liugoa  Geral — Ferocity  of  the  Aymores — The  City  of  Bahia — Porters — Cadeiras 
— History  of  Bahia — Caramuru — Attack  on  the  Hollanders — Measures  tnken  by 
Spain — The  City  retaken  —  The  Dutch  in  Brazil — Slave-Trade — Sociability  of 
Bahia  —  Mr.  Gilmer,  American  Consul  —  The  Humming-Bird — Whale-Fishery — 
American  Cemetery — Henry  Alartyn — Visit  to  Montserrat — View  of  the  City — The 
Emperor's  Birthday  —  Medical  School  —  Public  Library  —  Image-Factory  —  The 
Wonderful  Image  of  St.  Anthony — No  Miracle — St.  Anthony  a  Colonel — Visit  to 
Valenfa — Daring  Navigation — In  Puna  Naturalihus — The  Factory  and  Colonel 
Carson — American  Machinery — Skilful  Negroes — Return  Home — Commerce  with 
the  United  States 464 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Departure  from  Bahia  —  The  Vampire-Bat — His  Manner  of  Attack  —  The  Bitten 
Negro — Annoyances  magnified — Anacondas — One  that  swallowed  a  Hoarse — The 
Marmoset — Province  of  Alagoaz — The  Republic  of  Palmares — Peruambuco — The 
Amenities  of  Quarantine-Lite — Improvements  at  the  Recife — Peculiarities  of  Per- 
nambucan  Houses — Beautiful  Panorama — Various  Districts  of  the  City — A  Bible-, 
Christian — Extraordinary  Fauatieism  of  the  Sebastianists — Commerce  of  Pernam- 
buco  —  The  Population  of  the  Interior — The  Sertanejo  and  Market-Scene — The 
Sugar  and  Cotton  Mart — The  Jangad.i — Parahiba  do  Norte — Natal — Ceard, — The 
Paviola — Temperature  and  Periodical  Rains  —  The  City  of  Maranham  —  Judge 
Petit's  Description — The  Montaria — Departure 503 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Magnificence  of  Nature  in  the  Brazilian  North — The  City  of  Parii — The  Entrance  of 
the  Amazon — The  first  Protestant  Sermon  on  these  Waters — Parallel  to  the  Black- 
Hole  of  Calcutta — Eifects  of  Steam-Navigation — Improvements  in  Parii — The  Canoa 
— Bathing  and  Market  Scenes — Produce  of  Para — India-Rubber — Pari  Shoes — The 
Amazon  River — Mr.  Wallace's  Explorations — The  Vaca  Marina — Cetacea  of  the 
Amazon — Turtle-Egg  Butter — Indian  Archery — Brazilian  Birds  and  Insects — Visit 
to  Rice-Mills  near  Pard. — Journey  through  the  Forest — The  Paraense  Bishop's  Sus- 
picions of  Dr.  Kidder — State  of  Religion  at  Pard 539 


12  -  Contents. 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

PAoa 

Amazonas—  Its  Discovery — El  Dorado — Gonjalo  Pizarro — His  Expedition — Cruel- 
ties— Suflerings — Desertion  of  Orellana — Ilis  Descent  of  the  River — Fable  of  the 
Amazons  —  Fate  of  the  Adventurer  —  Name  of  the  River — Settlement  of  the 
Country  —  Successive  Expeditions  up  and  down  the  Amazon  —  Sufferings  of 
Madame  Godin — Present  State — Victoria  Regia — Steam-Navigation — Effects  of 
Herndon  and  Gibbon's  Report — Peruvian  Steamers — The  Future  Prospects  of  the 
Amazon 563 

Conclusion 582 

NToTES 599 

APPENDICES. 

Appendix  A. — Chronological  Summary  of  the  Principal  Events  that  have  transpired 
in  the  History  of  Brazil 601 

Appendix  B. — Abstract  of  the  Brazilian  Constitution,  sworn  to  on  the  25th  of 
March,  1824,  and  revised  in  1834 603 

Appendix  C. — Lines  composed  by  D.  Pedro  II 605 

Appendix  D. — Slavery  and  the  Slave-Trade  in  Brazil — England  and  Brazil 606 

Appendix  E. — Tables  of  Brazilian  Coins,  Weights,  and  Measures 607 

Appendix  F. — Population — The  Yellow  Fever  of  Brazil 609 

Appendix  G. — Imports,  Exports,  Revenue,  Ac.  of  Brazil 614 

Appendix  H. — Recent  Discoveries  of  Coal  in  Brazil 617 

Appendix  I. — Religious  Disabilities 625 

Appendix  J. — Professor  Agassiz's  Labors  on  the  Amazon 627 

Appendix  K. — Thermometrical  Observations  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  in  1864 634 


BATOF 


Scale  of'Six'OeopraphicalNUe^ 


hmda  ^\ 


1  /.  t'/"  \  "iUt'ijaijnoii  .  . 

2  Aiu^onuiotorMen  of  War,  ^. 

3  Atu^iompe  for  Menlmnt  VosmU 

dischttrtiuig  Carao 

4  Anciwrniie  tor  2d.Vessdjfreeeiiin^  Ovyo 

5  \al/on*jO-  ^    .    -- 

6  (rtWlbtUl  _       .      

7  (iun/to  S.Anna 

8  Passeio  Ptihlicv 

9  XS''t/n  Moa  JYot^tvn 

ID   S.ffeniro 


THE      SUGAR-LOAF,     (ENTRANCE      TO      THE      BAY      OF      RIO.) 


giprzil  ma  tlt(|  grrfianji. 


CHAPTEE   I. 

THE    BAT    OF    RIO    DE    JANEIRO HISTORIC    REMINISCENCES FIRST     SIGHT    OF    THR 

TROPICS ENTRANCE    TO    THE    HARBOR NIGHT-SCENES IMPRESSIONS    OF    BEAUTY 

AND    GRANDEUR GARDNER    AND     STEWART THE     CAPITAL    OF    BRAZIL DISTINC- 
TION   OF    RIO    DE    JANEIRO. 


The  Bay  of  Naples,  the  Golden  Horn  of  Constantinople,  and  the 

Bay  of  Eio  de  Janeiro,  are    always  mentioned   by  the  travelled 

tourist  as  pre-eminently  worthy  to  be  classed  together  for  their 

extent,  and  for  the  beauty  and  sublimity  of  their  scenery.    The  first 

two,  however,  must  yield  the  palm  to  the  last-named  magnificent 

sheet  of  water,  which,  in  a  climate  of  perpetual  summer,  is  enclosed 

within   the    ranges   of    singularly-picturesque    mountains,   and  is 

dotted  with  the  verdure-covered  islands  of  the  tropics.     He  who, 

13 


14  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

in  Switzerland,  has  gazed  from  the  Quai  of  Yevay,  or  from  the 
windows  of  the  old  Castle  of  Chillon,  upon  the  grand  panorama  of 
the  upper  end  of  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  can  have  an  idea  of  the 
general  vicAv  of  the  Bay  of  Eio  de  Janeiro;  and  there  was  much 
truth  and  beauty  in  the  remark  of  the  Swiss,  who,  looking  for  the 
first  time  on  the  native  splendor  of  the  Brazilian  bay  and  its  circlet 
of  mountains,  exclaimed,  "C'est  V Helvetic  Meridionalel"  (It  is  the 
Southern  Switzerland  !) 

What  a  glorious  spectacle  must  have  presented  itself  to  those 
early  navigators — De  Solis,  Majellan,  and  Martin  Aifonso  de  Souza — • 
who  were  the  first  Europeans  that  ever  sailed  through  the  narrow 
portal  which  constitutes  the  entrance  to  Nictherohy,  (^Hidden 
Water,)  as  these  almost  land  locked  waters  were  appropriately  and 
poetically  termed  by  the  Tamoyo  Indians  !  Though  the  moun- 
tain-sides and  borders  of  the  bay  are  still  richly  and  luxuriantly 
clothed,  then  all  the  primeval  forests  existed,  and  gave  a  wilder 
and  more  striking  beauty  to  a  scene  so  enchanting  in  a  natural 
point  of  view,  even  after  three  centuries  of  the  encroachments  of 
man.  De  Souza — as  the  common  tradition  runs — supposed  that 
he  had  entered  the  mouth  of  a  mighty  river,  rivalling  the  Orinoco 
and  the  Amazon,  and  named  it  Eio  de  Janeiro,  {River  of  January,') 
after  the  happy  month — January,  1531  —  in  which  he  made  his 
imagined  discovery.  Whatever  may  have  been  the  origin  of  this 
misnomer,  it  is  not  only  applied  to  the  large  and  commodious  bay, 
but  to  the  province  in  which  it  is  situated,  and  to  the  populous  metro- 
polis of  Brazil,  which  sits  like  a  queen  upon  its  bright  shpres. 

We  all  of  us  know,  either  by  our  own  experience  or  by  that 
of  others,  what  is  the  sight  of  land  to  the  tempest-tossed  voyager. 
When  the  broad  blue  circle  of  sea  and  sky,  Avhich  for  days  and 
weeks  has  encompassed  his  vision,  is  at  length  broken  by  a  shore, 
— even  though  that  shore  be  bleak  and  desolate  as  the  ice-moun- 
tains of  the  Arctic  regions, — it  is  invested  with  a  surpassing 
interest,  it  is  robed  in  undreamed-of  charms.  What,  then,  must 
be  the  emotions  of  one  who,  coming  from  a  latitude  of  stormy 
winter,  beholds  around  him  a  land  of  perpetual  summer,  with  its 
towering  and  crested  palms,  and  its  giant  vegetation  arrayed  in 
fadeless  green  ! 

In  December,  1851,  when  the  Iludson  and  the  Potomac  were 


Entrance  to  the  Harbor.  15 

bridged  by  the  ice-king,  and  clouds  and  snow  draped  the  sky  and 
the  kind,  our  good  vessel  stood  out  upon  a  stormy  sea.  A  few 
weeks  of  gales  and  rolling  waves,  varied  by  light  winds  and  calms, 
brought  us  to  Capo  Fino.  This  isolated  peak  shoots  up  as  steeply 
as  the  chalk-cliffs  of  England,  as  high  as  the  Rock  of  Gibraltar, 
and  is  covered  to  its  very  summit  with  verdure.  No  clouds — as  I 
last  beheld  them  in  conjunction  with  terra  firma  —  were  frown- 
ing over  this  summer-land.  The  balmiest  breezes  were  blowing, 
and  the  palms  upon  the  adjacent  hills  were  gracefully  waving 
above  the  world  of  veo'etation — so  new  to  me — which  c-leamed  in 
the  warm  sunlight.  It  was  in  the  midst  of  such  a  scene  that  the 
day,  not  without  evening-glories,  faded  away.  The  morning  sun 
shone  clearlj',  and  the  lofty  mountain-range  near  the  entrance  to  the 
harbor  stood  forth  in  an  outline  at  once  bold,  abrupt,  and  beautiful. 
The  first  entrance  of  any  one  to  the  Bay  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  forms 

an  era  in  his  existence  : — 

"  an  hour 
Whence  he  may  date  thenceforward  and  forever." 

Even  the  dullest  observer  must  afterward  cherish  sublimer  views 
of  the  manifold  beauty  and  majesty  of  the  works  of  the  Creator. 
I  have  seen  the  most  rude  and  ignorant  Russian  sailor,  the  im- 
moral and  unreflecting  Australian  adventurer,  as  well  as  the  culti- 
vated and  refined  European  gentleman,  stand  silent  upon  the  deck, 
mutually  admiring  the  gigantic  avenue  of  mountains  and  palm- 
covered  isles,  which,  like  the  granite  pillars  before  the  Temple 
of  Luxor,  form  a  fitting  colonnade  to  the  portal  of  the  finest  bay 
in  the  world. 

On  either  side  of  that  contracted  entrance,  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  stretch  away  the  mountains,  whose  pointed  and  fantastic 
shapes  recall  the  glories  of  Alj^land.  On  our  left,  the  Sugar-Loaf 
stands  like  a  giant  sentinel  to  the  metropolis  of  Brazil.  The  round 
and  green  summits  of  the  Tres  Irraaos  {Three  Brothers)  are  in 
strong  contrast  with  the  peaks  of  Corcovado  and  Tijuca ;  while 
the  Gavia  rears  its  huge  sail-like  form,  and  half  hides  the  fading 
line  of  mountains  which  extends  to  the  very  borders  of  Rio  Grande 
do  Sul.  On  the  right,  another  loft}''  range  commences  near  tho 
principal  fortress  which  commands  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  and, 
forming  curtain-like  ramparts,  reaches  away,  in  picturesque  head- 


16  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

lands,  to  the  bold  j^romontory  well  knoAvn  to  all  South  Atlantic 
navigators  as  Cape  Frio.  Far  through  the  opening  of  the  bay,  and 
in  some  places  towering  even  above  the  lofty  coast-barrier,  can  be 
discovered  the  blue  outline  of  the  distant  Organ  Mountains,  whose 
lofty  pinnacles  will  at  once  suggest  the  origin  of  their  name. 

The  general  effect  is  truly  sublime;  but  as  the  vessel  draAvs 
nearer  to  the  bold  shore,  and  we  see,  on  the  sides  of  the  double 
mount  which  rises  in  the  rear  of  Santa  Cruz,  the  peculiar  bright- 
leaved  woods  of  Brazil,  with  here  and  there  the  purple-blooming 
quaresma-tree, — and  when  we  observe  that  the  snake-like  cacti  and 
rich-flowering  parasites  shoot  forth  and  hang  down  even  from  the 
jagged  and  precipitous  sides  of  the  Sugar-Loaf, — and  as  we  single 
out  in  every  nook  and  crevice  new  evidences  of  a  genial  and  pro- 
lific clime, — emotion,  before  overwhelmed  by  vastness  of  outline, 
now  unburdens  itself  in  every  conceivable  exclamation  of  surprise 
and  admiration. 

The  breeze  is  wafting  us  onward,  and  we  pass  beneath  the  white 
walls  of  the  Santa  Cruz  fortress.  A  black  soldier,  dressed  in  a 
light  uniform  of  enviable  coolness,  leans  lazily  over  a  parapet, 
while  higher  up  on  the  ramparts  a  sentinel  marches  with  leisurely 
tread  near  the  glass  cupola  which,  illuminated  at  night,  serves  as  a 
guide  to  the  entering  mariner.  Immediately  an  enormous  trumpet 
is  protruded  from  this  cupola,  and  our  good  ship  is  saluted  by  a 
stentorian  voice,  demanding,  in  Portuguese-English,  the  usual 
questions  put  to  vessels  sailing  into  a  foreign  port.  We  soon  glide 
from  under  the  frowning  guns  of  Santa  Cruz,  and  are  just  abreast 
Fort  Lage,  celebrated  as  the  first  spot  of  the  bay  ever  inhabited  by 
civilized  man.  The  scene  which  now  opens  before  us  is  exquisitely 
beautiful.  Far  to  our  left,  beneath  the  Sugar-Loaf,  but  nearer  to 
the  city,  is  the  fortress  of  St.  John,  bright  amid  the  surrounding 
verdure.  Passing  through  a  fleet  of  gracefully  shaped  canoes  and 
market-boats,  manned  by  half-clad  blacks,  we  cling  to  the  steep 
right-hand  coast,  which  soon  precipitously  terminates,  and  reveals 
to  us  the  lovely  little  Bay  of  Jurujuba, — the  "five-fathom"  bay  of 
the  English.  Again  looking  to  the  opposite  side,  beyond  St.  John, 
we  have  a  glimpse  of  the  graceful  Cove  of  Botafoga  (the  Bay  of 
Naples  in  miniature)  and  the  pretty  suburb  of  the  same  name, 
which  seems  like  a  jewel  set  between  the  smooth  white  beach  and 


C    -5 


Tropic  Night-scenes.  17 

vhe  broad  circle  of  living  green.  Here  too  we  have  another  of  the 
many  views  of  the  Corcovado  and  the  Gavia,  which,  as  we  vary 
our  position,  are  ever  changing  and  ever  beautiful. 

Now  the  vast  city  looms  up  before  us,  extending,  with  its  white 
suburbs,  for  miles  along  the  irregular  shores  of  the  bay,  and  run- 
ning far  back  almost  to  the  foot  of  the  Tijuca  Mountains,  diversified 
by  green  hills  Avhich  seem  to  spring  up  from  the  most  pojiulous 
neighborhoods.  These  combined  cii-cumstances  prevent  a  perfect 
view  of  Ilio  de  Janeiro  from  the  waters.  While  gazing  uj^on  the 
domes  and  steeples,  on  the  white  edifices  of, the  city,  and  the  bright 
verdure-clad  Gloria,  Santa  Theresa,  and  Castello  Hills,  we  are  cut 
short  in  our  admiration  by  the  cry  of  a  Brazilian  official : — "  Let  go 
your  anchor."  The  command  is  obeyed,  and  we  are  comfortably 
lying  to  under  the  formidable-looking  guns  of  the  Fortelcza  Ville- 
gagnon.  Our  vessel  swings  round  and  reveals  to  us  on  the  opposite 
shore  the  city  of  Praia  Grande,  the  parti-colored  cliff'  of  St.  Do- 
mingo, and  upon  a  mere  rock,  which  seems  a  fragment  of  the  ad- 
joining shore,  the  little  church  of  Nossa  Senhora  de  Boa  Viagem, 
in  which  Eoman  Catholic  voyagei'S  are  supposed  to  pay  their  vows, 
and  around  which  many  graceful  palm-trees  are  nodding  in  the 
cool  ocean-breeze.  While  awaiting  the  visit  of  the  custom-house 
oflScers  we  remain  upon  deck,  and  tire  not  of  scenes  so  novel  and 
exciting.  Little  steamers  and  graceful  falluas*  are  passing  and  re- 
passing from  Praia  Grande  and  St.  Domingo.  White  sails  are  dot- 
ting the  bay  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  while  all  around  us  the 
serried  masts  of  Brazilian  and  foreign  vessels  are  evidences  that  we 
are  in  the  midst  of  a  vast  and  busy  mart. 

The  night  soon  succeeds  the  short  twilight  of  the  tropics,  and  the 
city  from  our  ship  seems  like  a  land  of  fairy  enchantment.  Bril- 
liancy and  novelty  do  not  end  with  the  day.  Innumerable  gas- 
lights line  the  immense  borders  of  the  city  down  to  the  very  edge 
of  the  bay,  and  are  reflected  back  from  the  water  in  a  thousand 
'quivering  flashes.  The  very  forms  of  the  hills  themselves  are  de- 
fined amid  the  darkness  by  rows  of  lamps  extending  over  their 
verdure-clad  summits,  and  seem  like  the  fabled  star-bridges  of  an 
Arabian  tale.     The  steam  ferry-boats  bear  various-colored  lights, 


*  See  engraving  on  page  60. 
2 


18  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

and  each  vessel  in  the  harhor  has  a  lamp  at  its  fore;  while  every 
turn  of  the  wheel  furrows  through  a  diamond  sea,  and  every  dash 
of  the  oar  and  every  ripple  from  the  gentle  evening  breeze  reveals 
a  thousand  brilliant  phosphorescent  animalciilse  illuminating  the 
otherwise  darkened  waters.  When  we  look  above  us  we  behold  new 
constellations  spangling  the  heavens,  and  their  queen  is  the  Southern 
Cross,  guarded  by  her  silent  and  mysterious  attendants,  the  Majel- 
lan  Clouds.  The  Great  Bear  has  long  since  been  hidden  from  us; 
but  just  peeping  over  the  natural  ramparts  of  the  Organ  Mountains, 
we  see  an  old  and  a  welcome  friend  in  that  beaming  Orion,  who  here 
loses  none  of  his  northern  splendor,  and  does  not  even  pale  before 
his  rival  of  the  Southern  Hemisphere.  Amid  such  scenes  who 
could  close  their  eyelids  in  sleep  ?  Dr.  Kidder  on  one  occasion,  re- 
turning from  the  northern  provinces,  entered  the  harbor  at  night- 
fall during  a  squall,  and  thus  describes  the  scene : — 

"  We  passed  close  under  the  walls  of  Fort  Santa  Cruz ;  but,  just 
as  the  vessel  was  in  the  most  critical  part  of  the  passage,  the  wind 
lulled,  and  the  current  of  the  ebbing  tide  swept  her  back,  and  by 
degrees  carried  her  over  toward  the  rocks  upon  which  Fort  Lage 
is  constructed.  The  moment- was  one  of  great  excitement  and 
danger.  Our  situation  was  perceived  at  the  forts,  which  severally 
fired  guns,  and  burned  white  and  blue  lights,  in  order  to  show  us 
their  position. 

"A  more  sublime  scene  can  hardly  be  imagined.  The  rolling 
thunders  of  the  cannon  were  echoed  back  by  the  surrounding 
mountain-peaks,  and  the  brilliant  glare  of  the  artificial  flames  ap- 
peared the  more  intense  in  the  midst  of  unusual  darkness.  Happily 
for  the  vessel  and  all  on  board,  the  wind  freshened  in  time,  and  we 
were  borne  gallantly  up  to  the  man-of-war  anchorage,  where,  at 
nine  o'clock,  we  were  lying  moored  to  not  less  than  seventy  fathoms 
of  chain. 

"The  moon  had  not  yet  risen,  and  the  evening  remained  very 
dark.  This  circumstance  heightened  the  beauty  of  the  city  and 
the  effect  of  her  thousand  lamps,  which  were  seen  brightly  burn- 
ing at  measured  intervals  over  the  hills  and  praias  of  her  far- 
stretching  suburbs.  One  young  man  was  so  enchanted  with  the 
novelty  and  splendor  of  the  scene,  that  he  remained  on  deck  all 
night  to  gaze  upon  it,  notwithstanding  rain  fell  at  intervals." 


Beauty  and  Grandeur.  19 

More  than  one  have  had  to  confess  tliat  their  first  twenty-four 
hours  hefore  Eio  have  been  spent  in  a  pcrpendicuh^r  position  with 
the  eyes  wide  open,  and  could  exchiim,  with  empliasis, — 

"  Most  gloi'ious  night ! 
Thou  wert  not  sent  for  slumber." 

Every  thing  is  so  fresh,  so  novel  and  awakening,  that  we  are  like 
children  on  the  eve  of  some  great  festival  or  the  night  before  the 
first  journe}"  to  some  vast  city  Avith  whose  wonders  the  story-book 
and  the  improvisations  of  the  nursery  have  filled  the  imagination 
to  the  full. 

I  have  again  and  again  entered  and  quitted  the  Bay  of  Eio  de 
Janeiro  when  the  billows  were  surging  and  when  the  calm  mantled 
the  deep;  and,  whether  in  the  purple  light  of  a  ti'Opic  morning; 
in  the  garish  noon,  or  in  the  too  brief  twilight  of  that  Southern 
clime,  it  has  alwaj^s  presented  to  me  new  glories  and  new  charms. 
It  has  been  my  privilege  to  look  upon  some  of  the  most  celebrated 
scenes  of  both  hemispheres;  but  I  have  never  found  one  which 
combined  so  much  to  be  admired  as  the  panorama  which  we  have 
attempted  to  describe.  On  the  Height  of  St.  Elmo  I  have  drank  in 
as  much  of  beaut}^  from  that  curvilinear  bay  of  Southern  Italy, 
upon  whose  bosom  float  the  isles  of  Capri  and  Ischia,  and  upon 
whose  margin  nestle  the  gracefull3'-shaped  Vesuvius,  the  long  arm 
of  Sorrento,  and  the  proverbially-brilliant  city  of  Naples.  I  have 
seen  very  great  variety  in  the  blue,  isle-dotted  Bay  of  Panama; 
and  I  have  beheld  in  the  Alps,  and  in  the  western  entrance  to  the 
Straits  of  Majellan,  where  the  black,  jagged  Andes  are  rent  asunder, 
scenes  of  wildness  and  sublimity  without  parallel;  but,  all  things 
considered,  I  have  jet  to  gaze  upon  a  scene  which  surpasses,  in 
combined  beauty,  variety,  and  grandeur,  the  mountain-engirdled 
Nictherohy. 

The  above  impressions  were  penned  before  I  had  read,  with  a 
single  exception,  one  of  the  many  detailed  descriptions  of  the  Bay 
of  Eio  de  Janeiro;  and  it  occurred  to  me  that  those  who  had  never 
Been  the  natural  beauties  of  this  region  would  not  give  ready 
assent  to  its  exaltation  above  so  many  other  places  famous  for 
their  scenery.  Such  might  say,  "He  is  an  enthusiast,  an  exagge- 
rator.'.'     I  have  since  perused  many  books,  journals,  and  letters 


20  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

on  Brazil;  and  all — from  the  ponderous  tomes  of  Spix  and  Yon 
Martius,  down  to  the  ephemeral  lines  of  a  contributor  to  the  news- 
papers — are  of  one  accord  in  regard  to  this  wonderful  bay.  Though 
the  works  may  be  devoted  to  history,  science,  commerce,  or  to  the 
epistolary  correspondence  of  friends,  in  this  respect  they  all  bear  a 
resemblance;  for  all  draw  the  same  portrait  and  from  the  same 
original.  Indeed,  when  reading  the  description  given  by  the  late 
lamented  English  botanist,  Gardner,  I  half  suspected  myself  a 
plagiarist,  though  I  had  never  read  his  interesting  and  truly 
valuable  travels  until  my  own  account  was  written. 

Describing  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  this  naturalist  says, — 
"Passing  through  the  magnificent  portal  of  the  bay,  we  came  to 
an  anchor  a  few  miles  below  the  city,  not  being  allowed  to  proceed 
farther  until  visited  by  the  authorities.  It  is  quite  impossible  to 
express  the  feelings  which  arise  in  the  mind  while  the  eye  surveys 
the  beautifully-varied  scener}^  which  is  disclosed  on  entering  the 
harbor, — scenery  which  is  perhaps  unequalled  on  the  face  of  the 
earth,  and  on  the  production  of  which  nature  seems  to  have 
exerted  all  her  energies.  Since  then  I  have  visited  many  places 
celebrated  for  their  beauty  and  their  grandeur,  but  none  of  them 
have  left  a  like  impression  on  my  mind.  As  far  up  the  bay  as  the 
<!ye  could  reach,  lovely  little  verdant  and  palm-clad  islands  were  to 
be  seen  rising  out  of  its  dark  bosom ;  while  the  hills  and  lofty 
mountains  which  surround  it  on  all  sides,  gilded  by  the  rays  of  the 
setting  sun,  formed  a  befitting  frame  for  such  a  picture.  At  night 
the  lights  of  the  city  had  a  fine  effect;  and  when  the  land-breeze 
began  to  blow,  the  rich  odor  of  the  orange  and  other  perfumed 
flowers  Avas  borne  seaward  along  with  it,  and,  by  me  at  least, 
enjoyed  the  more  from  having  been  so  long  shut  out  from  the 
companionship  of  flowers.  Ceylon  has  been  celebrated  by  voyagers 
for  its  spicy  odors;  but  I  have  twice  made  its  shores,  with  a  land- 
breeze  blowing,  without  experiencing  any  thing  half  so  sweet  as 
those  which  greeted  my  arrival  at  Eio." 

The  description  given  by  the  Eev.  C.  S.  Stewart  is  valuable  in 
bhowing  the  impressions  of  this  magnificent  bay  upon  one  who 
had,  since  his  first  visit  to  Brazil,  viewed  some  of  the  most  re- 
now^ned  scenes  in  the  world  : — 

"I  was  anxious  to  test  the  fidelity  of  the  impressions  received 


The  Capital  of  Brazil.  21 

twenty  years  ago  from  the  same  scenery,  and  to  determine  how 
far  the  magnificent  picture  still  lingering  in  my  memory  was 
justified  by  the  realif.y,  or  how  far  it  was  to  be  attributed  to  the 
enthusiasm  of  younger  years  and  the  freshness  of  less  experienced 
travel.  The  early  light  of  the  morning  quickly  determined  the 
point.  I  was  hurried  to  the  deck  by  a  message  from  Lieutenant 
E ,  already'  there,  and  do  not  recollect  ever  to  have  been  im- 
pressed with  higher  admiration  by  any  picture  in  still  life  than  by 
the  group  of  mountains  and  the  coast-scene  meeting  my  eyes  on 
the  left.  The  wildness  and  sublimity  of  outline  of  the  Piio  do 
Assucar,  Dous  Irmaos,  Gavia,  and  Corcovado,  and  their  fantastic 
combinations,  from  the  point  at  which  we  viewed  them,  can  scarce 
be  rivalled;  while  the  richness  and  beaut}'  of  coloring  thrown 
over  and  around  the  whole,  in  purple  and  gold,  rose-color,  and 
ethereal  blue,  were  all  that  the  varied  and  glowing  tints  of  the 
rising  day  ever  impart.  No  fancj^-sketch  of  fa'.ry-land  could  sur- 
pass this  scene,  and  we  stood  gazing  upon  it  as  if  fascinated  by  the 
work  of  a  master-hand." 

The  city  of  Kio  de  Janeiro,  or  San  Sebastian,  is  at  once  the 
commercial  emporium  and  the  political  capital  of  the  nation. 
"While  Brazil  embraces  a  greater  territorial  dominion  than  any 
other  country  of  the  New  World,  together  with  natural  advan- 
tages second  to  none  on  the  globe,  the  position,  the  scenery, 
and  the  increasing  magnitude  of  its  capital  render  it  a  metro- 
polis worthy  of  the  empire.  Eio  de  Janeiro  is  the  largest  city 
of  South  America,  the  third  in  size  on  the  Western  Continent, 
and  boasts  an  antiquit}'  greater  than  that  of  any  city  in  the 
United  States. 

Its  harbor  is  situated  just  within  the  borders  of  the  Southern 
Torrid  Zone,  and  communicates,  as  before  described,  with  the 
wide-rolling  Atlantic,  by  a  deep  and  narrow  passage  between  two 
granite  mountains.  This  enti'ance  is  so  safe  as  to  render  the  ser- 
vices of  a  pilot  entirely  unnecessary.  So  commanding,  however, 
is  the  position  of  the  various  fortresses  at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor 
upon  its  islands  and  on  the  surrounding  heights,  that,  if  efficiently 
manned  by  a  body  of  determined  men,  they  might  defy  the  hostile 
ingress  of  the  proudest  navies  in  the  world. 

Once  within  this  mag^iiificent  bay  of  Nitherohy,  the  wanderer 


22  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

of  the  seas  may  safely  moor  his  bark  withiu  hearing  of  the  roar  of 
the  ocean-surf 

The  aspect  which  Rio  do  Janeiro  jircsents  to  the  beholder  bears 
no  resemblance  to  the  compact  brick  walls,  the  dingy  roofs,  the 
tall  chimneys,  and  the  generally-even  sites  of  our  Northern  cities. 
Its  surface  is  diversified  by  hills  of  irregular  but  picturesque  shape, 
which  shoot  up  in  different  dii*ections,  leaving  between  them  flat 
intervals  of  greater  or  less  extent.  Along  the  bases  of  these  hills, 
and  up  their  sides,  stand  rows  of  buildings,  whose  wdiitencd  walls 
and  red-tiled  roofs  are  in  happy  contrast  with  the  deep-green 
foliage  that  always  surrounds  and  often  embowers  them. 

The  most  prominent  eminence,  almost  in  front  of  us,  is  the  Morro 
do  Castello,  which  overlooks  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  and  on 
which  is  the  tall  signal-staff  that  announces,  in  connection  with  the 
telegraph  on  Babylonia  Hill,  the  nation,  class,  and  position  of  every 
vessel  that  appears  in  the  offing.  Upon  our  right  we  see  the 
convent-crowned  hill  of  San  Bento;  and  if  we  could  have  a  bird's- 
eye  view  from  a  point  midway  between  the  turrets  of  the  convent 
and  the  signal-staff  of  Morro  do  Castello,  we  should  see  the  city 
sj^read  beneath  us,  with  its  streets,  steeples,  and  towers,  its  public 
edifices,  parks,  and  vermillion  chimneyless  roofs,  and  its  aqueducts 
spanning  the  spaces  between  the  seven  green  hills,  constituting  a 
gigantic  mosaic,  bordered  upon  one  side  by  the  mountains,  and  on 
the  other  by  the  blue  waters  of  the  bay. 

From  the  central  portion  of  the  city  the  suburbs  extend  about 
four  miles  in  each  of  the  three  principal  directions,  so  that  the 
municipality  of  Bio  de  Janeiro,  containing  five  hundred  thousand 
inhabitants,  covers  a  greater  extent  of  ground  than  any  European 
city  of  the  same  population. 

Here  dwell  a  large  pai't  of  the  nobility  of  the  nation,  and,  for  a 
considerable  portion  of  the  year,  the  representatives  of  the  different 
provinces,  the  ministers  of  state,  the  foreign  ambassadors  and 
consuls,  and  a  commingled  populace  of  native  Brazilians  and  of 
foreigners  from  almost  every  clime.  That  which  in  the  popular 
estimation,  however,  confers  the  greatest  distinction  upon  Bio,  is 
not  the  busy  throng  of  foreign  and  home  merchants,  sea-captains, 
ordinary  Government-officials,  and  the  upper  classes  of  society;  but 
it  is  in  the  fact  that  here  resides  the  imperial  head  of  Brazil,  the 


Distinction  of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  '  23 

young  and  gifted  Doni  Pedro  II.,  who  unites  the  blood  of  the  lira- 
ganzas  and  the  Ilapsburgs,  and  under  whose  constitutional  rule 
civil  liberty,  religious  toleration,  and  general  prosperity  are  better 
secured  than  in  any  other  Government  of  the  New  World,  save 
where  the  Anglo-Saxon  bears  sway. 

Attractive  as  may  be  the  natural  scenery  and  the  beauties  of  art 
abounding  in  any  country,  it  must  be  confessed  that  human  exist- 
ence, with  its  weal  or  woe,  involves  a  far  deeper  interest.  And  the 
traveller  but  poorly  accomplishes  his  task  of  delineating  the  pre- 
sent, if  he  leaves  unattempted  some  sketches  of  the  history  of  the 
past  as  an  introduction  to  the  scenes  and  events  which  have  come 
under  his  own  observation.  After  glancing  rapidly  at  some  of  the 
most  striking  sights  and  customs  of  Hio  de  Janeiro,  I  shall  intro- 
duce a  brief  sketch  of  its  past  history. 


HOTEL      PHAROUX. 


CHAPTER  II. 

LANDING HOTEL     PHAROUX NOVEL    SIGHTS    AND    SOUNDS THE     PALACE     SQUARE  — 

EUA    DIREITA EXCHANGE THE    "  TEAM  " MUSICAL    COFFEE-CABKIERS — CUSTOM- 
HOUSE— LESSONS    IN    PORTUGUESE,  AND     GOVERNOR    KENt's    OPINION    OF    BRAZIL 

POST-OFFICE DISLIKE    OF    CHANGE — SENHOR    JOSE  MAXWELL RUA  DO  OUVIDOR 

SHOPS      AND      FEATHER-FLOWERS THE      BRAZILIAN      OMNIBUS      CAN     BE      FULL 

NARROW       STREETS       AND       POLICE-REGULATIONS A      SUGGESTION      TO       RELIEVE 

BROADWAY,   NEW    YORK PASSEIO    PUBLICO — BRAZILIAN    POLITENESS THE    "  GON- 
DOLA"— THE     BRAZILIAN     IMPERTURBABLE LACK     OF     HOTELS FIRST     NIGHT     IN 

RIO    DE    JANEIRO. 


The  stranger  who,  with  anxious  expectation,  has  paced  the  dock 
of  his  vessel  as  it  lies  at  anchor  under  Villegagnon,  knows  no  more 
welcome  sound  than  the  permission  from  the  Custom-House  and 
health  officers  to  land  and  roam  through  the  city  which  for  hours 
before  his  eyes  have  visited.  The  blacks  who  have  come  from  the 
shore  now  return,  pulling  their  heavy  boat  lustily  along,  for  they 
arc  sure  of  a  treble  price  from  the  newly-arrived.  Who  that  has 
visited  Eio  de  Janeiro  will  not  at  a  glance  recognise  the  landing- 
place  depicted  in  the  engraving?  Hotel  Pharoux,  the  Palace  Stairs, 
and  the  Largo  do  Pago,  (Palace  Square,)  are  associated  with  Rio  de 

Janeiro  in  the  mind  of  every  foreign  naval  officer  who  has  been  on 
21 


Novel  Sights  and  Sounds.  25 

the  Brazil  station.  But  '"•liangcs  liave  taken  place,  and  greater  are 
in  contemplation,  among  this  slow-moving  people.  Hotel  Pharoux 
still  lifts  its  gray  walls;  but  it  is  modernized,  and  the  old  restau- 
rant and  stable  in  the  basement  have  given  way  to  shell-merchants 
and  feather-flower  dealers,  and  the  upper  stories  form  a  private  hos- 
pital. We  no  longer  land  at  the  Palace  Stairs,  where  formerly  at 
flood-tide  the  waters  of  the  bay  dashed  and  foamed  against  tho 
stone  parajiet  which  at  this  point  marked  their  limit.  The  square 
has  been  extended  into  tho  waves,  and  soon  the  Government  will 
have  fine  quays  along  the  whole  water-edge  in  this  part  of  the 
city. 

Instead  of  the  old  granite  steps,  we  ascend  the  wooden  stairs  at 
the  end  of  a  long  jetty.  Here  our  boat  has  arrived,  amid  odors 
that  cei'tainly  have  not  been  wafted  fi*om  "Araby  the  blest,"  and 
we  learn  that  the  sewerage  of  Eio  is  a  portable  instead  of  an  under- 
ground atfair.  The  sense  of  hearing,  too,  is  wounded  by  the  con- 
fused jabbering  of  blacks  in  the  language  of  Congo,  the  shouts 
of  Portuguese  boat-owners,  and  by  the  oaths  of  American  and 
English  sailors.  Once  clear  of  this  throng,  what  novel  sights  and 
sounds  astonish  us!  A  hackney-coachman,  in  glazed  hat  and  red 
vest,  invites  us  to  a  ride  to  the  Botanical  Gardens;  a  smart-looking 
mulatto  points  to  his  '^  carriage"  hard  by  the  Hotel  de  France. 
Before  their  words  are  ended,  the  roll  of  drums  and  the  blast  of 
bugles  attract  our  attention  in  another  direction.  There,  in  front 
of  the  old  palace,  is  drawn  up  a  handful  of  the  National  Guard, 
composed  of  every  imaginable  complexion,  from  white  to  African; 
and  now,  as  every  day  at  noon,  they  remove  their  helmets,  listen 
for  a  moment  with  religious  veneration  to  the  strain  of  music 
which  the  black  trumpeters  puff  out  from  swelling  cheeks,  and  then 
resume,  w4th  the  exception  of  the  sentinels,  their  difficult  task  of 
loitering  in  the  corridors  of  the  huge  building,  or  basking  in  the 
sunshine,  until  another  sound  of  the  bugle  shall  call  them  to  .hango 
guard  or  fall  into  ranks  at  vespers. 

We  are  not  yet  readj^  to  try  the  vehicles  of  Rio  de  Janeiro;  so 
we  dismiss  our  would-be  coachmen,  and  look  around  us  in  the 
Largo  do  Pa§o. 

At  the  Palace  Square  the  stranger  finds  himself  surrounded  by  a 
throng  as  diverse  in  habits  and  appearance,  and  as  variegated  in 


26 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


complexion  and  costume,  as  his  fancy  ever  jDictured.  The  majority 
of  the  crowd  are  Africans,  who  collect  around  the  fountain  to 
obtain  water,  which  flows  from  a  score  of  pipes,  and,  when  caught 
in  tubs  or  barrels,  is  borne  off  upon  the  heads  of  both  males  and 
females. 

The  slaves  go  barefooted,  but  some  of  them  are  gayly  dressed 
Their  sociability  wdien  congregated  in  these  resorts  is  usually 
extreme,  but  sometimes  it  ends  in  differences  and  blows.  To  pre- 
vent disorders  of  this  kind,  soldiers  are  generally  stationed  near 
the  fountains,  who  are  pretty  sure  to  maintain  their  authority 
over  the  unresisting  blacks.  Formerly  there  were  only  a  few 
principal    fountains;     now   there    are   large  chaf arizes  in  all  the 


THE     LARGO     DO     PACO,   AND     RUA    OIREITA,    FROM     THE     PALACE. 


squares,  and  at  the  corners  of  ever^'^  third  or  fourth  street  are 
smaller  streams  of  the  pure  element,  which  flow  at  the  turning  of 
a  stopcock. 

The  Palace  is  a  large  stone  building,  exhibiting  the  old  Portuguese 


The  Palace  Square.  27 

style  of  architecture.  It  was  long  used  as  a  residence  by  the  vice- 
roys, and  for  a  time  by  Dom  John  VI.,  but  is  now  appropriated  to 
various  public  offices,  and  contains  a  suite  of  rooms  in  which  court 
is  held  on  gala-days.  The  buildings  at  the  rear  of  the  Palace 
Square  (represented  on  the  left  of  the  engraving)  were  all  erected 
for  ecclesiastical  purposes.  The  oldest  was  a  Franciscan  convent, 
but  has  long  since  been  connected  with  the  Palace,  and  used  for 
pecular  purposes.  The  old  chapel,  with  its  short,  thick  tower, 
remains,  but  has  been  superseded,  in  popularity  as  w^ell  as  in 
sijlendor,  by  the  more  recently-erected  imperial  chapel,  which, 
without  belfry,  stands  at  its  right.  Adjoining  the  imperial  chapel 
is  that  of  the  third  order  of  Our  Lady  of  Mount  Carmel,  which  is 
daily  open,  and  is  used  as  a  cathedral.  The  steeples  of  this  church 
during  certain  festivals  are  illuminated  to  the  very  crosses,  and 
present  a  splendid  appearance  from  the  shipping. 

The  streets  of  the  city  are  generall}'  quite  naiTOw;  but  the  Rua 
Direita,  which  is  seen  in  the  above  cut  beyond  the  Largo  do  Pago, 
is  wide,  and  well  paved  with  small  square  blocks  of  stone  which  are 
brought  from  the  Isle  of  Wight.  The  Bua  Direita  and  many  of 
the  principal  streets  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  are  now  as  well  paved  as 
the  finest  thoroughfares  of  London  or  Vienna,  pi'csenting  a  great 
contrast  to  the  former  irregular  and  miserable  pavement,  which 
was  in  use  up  to  1.854.  The  Rua  Direita  and  the  Largo  do  Rocio 
are  the  points  whence  otnnibuses  start  for  every  portion  of  the  vast 
city  and  its  suburbs. 

The  houses  seldom  exceed  three  or  four  stories;  but  a  four-story 
house  at  Eio  is  equal  in  height  to  one  of  five  in  New  Yoi"k.  For- 
merly nearly  all  were  occupied  as  dwellings,  and  even  in  the  streets 
devoted  to  business  the  first  floors  only  were  appi-opriated  to  the 
storage  and  displa}^  of  goods,  while  fixmilies  resided  above.  But 
since  1850  this  has  greatly  changed  in  the  quarter  where  the 
wholesale  houses  are  found :  j^roprietors  and  clerks  now  reside  in 
the  picturesque  suburbs  of  Botafogo,  Engenho  Velho,  and  across 
the  bay  at  Praia  Grande  or  San  Domingo.  Every  evening  presents 
an  animated  spectacle  of  crowded  steamers,  full  omnibuses,  and 
galloping  horses  and  mules,  all  conveying  the  negociantes  and 
caixeiros  (bookkeppers)  to  their  respective  residences. 

The  distant  steeples  on  our  left  are  those   of  the    Church  of 


28 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


Candelaiia,  which  is  situated  on  a  narrow  street  back  from  the 
Eua  Direita.  It  is  the  hirgest  church  in  the  city,  and  presents 
taller  spires  and  a  handsomer  front  than  any  other. 

The  Fraga  do  Commercio,  or  Exchange,  occupies  a  prominent 
position  in  the  Eua  Direita.  This  building,  formerly  a  part  of  the 
Custom-House,  was  ceded  by  Government  for  its  present  purposes 
in  1834.  It  contains  a  reading-room,  supplied  with  Brazilian  and 
foreign  newspapers,  and  is  subject  to  the  usual  regulations  of  such 
an  establishment  in  other  cities.  Beneath  its  spacious  portico 
the  merchants  of  eight  or  nine  different  nations  meet  each  other 
in  the  morning  to  interchange  salutations  and  to  negotiate  their 
general  business.  The  Exchange  is  not  far  from  the  Custom-House, 
which  formerly  had  its  miin  entrance  adjoining  the  Pra§a. 


THE   RIO   TEAM    (NOW    ABOLISHED). 


Nothing  can  be  more  animated  and  peculiar  than  the  scenes 
which  are  witnessed  in  this  part  of  the  Eua  Direita  during  the 
business-hours  of  the  day, — viz. :  from  nine  a.m.  to  three  p.m.  It  is 
in  these  hours  only  that  vessels  are  permitted  to  discharge  and  receive 
their  carijoes,  and  at  the  same  time  all  e:oods  and  baimao-e  must  be 
despatched  at  the  Custom-House  and  removed  therefrom.  Conse- 
quent upon  such  arrangements,  the  utmost  activit}''  is  required  to 
remove  the  goods  despatched,  and  to  embark  those  productions  of 
the  country  that  are  daily  required  in  the  transactions  of  a  vast 
commercial   emporium.      There  Avere  the  black-coated   merchants 


The  Musical  Coffee-Carriers. 


29 


congregated  about  the  Exchange,  and  there  came  the  negro  dray. 
The  team  consisted  of  five  stalwart  Africans  pushing,  pulling,  steer- 
ing, and  shouting  as  they  made  their  way  amid  the  sei-ried  throng, 
unmindful  of  the  Madeira  Islander,  who,  with  an  imprecation  and 
a  crack  of  his  whip,  urged  on  a  thundering  mule-cart  laden  with 
boxes.  Now  an  omnibus  thunders  through  the  crowd,  and  a  large 
four-wheeled  Avagon,  belonging  to  Smith's  Express  for  the  trans- 
portation of  "goods,"  rolls  in  its  wake.  Formerly  all  this  labor 
was  pei'formed  by  human  hands,  and  scarcely  a  cart  or  a  dray  was 
used  in  the  city,  unless,  indeed,  it  was  drawn  by  negroes.  Carts 
and  wagons  propelled  by  horse-power  are  now  quite  common;  but 
for  the  moving  of  light  burdens  and  for  the  transportation  of  furni- 
ture, pianos,  &c.  the  negro's  head  has  not  been  superseded  by  any 
vehicle  until  1862,  when  Smith's  Express,  and  large  wagons  called 
andorinhas,  came  in  vogue,  except  for  pianos. 


THE    FORMER    COFFEE    CARRIERS   OF    RIO    DE   JANEIRO, 


In  1857,  while  we  were  almost  stunned  by  the  sounds  of  the  mul- 
titude, we  had  a  new  source  of  wonderment.  Above  all  the  confu- 
sion of  the  Eua  Direita,  we  heard  a  stentorian  chorus  of  voices  re- 
sponding in  quick  measure  to  the  burden  of  a  song.  We  beheld, 
over  the  heads  of  the  throng,  a  line  of  wdiite  sacks  rushing  around 
the  corner  of  the  Eua  da  Alfandega,  (^Custom- House  Street.)  We 
hastened  to  that  portion  of  Eua  Direita,  and  saw  that  these  sacks 
had  each  a  living  ebony  Hercules  beneath.     These  were  the  far- 


30  Bkazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

famed  coffee-carriers  of  Rio.  They  usually  went  in  troops,  number- 
ing ten  or  twenty  individuals,  of  whom  one  took  the  lead  and  was 
called  the  captain.  These  were  generally  the  largest  and  strongest 
men  that  could  be  found.  While  at  work  they  seldom  wore  any 
other  garment  than  a  pair  of  short  pantaloons;  their  shirt  was 
thrown  aside  for  the  time  as  an  encumbrance.  Each  one  took  a 
bag  of  coffee  upon  his  head,  weighing  one  hundred  and  sixty 
pounds,  and,  when  all  were  ready,  they  started  off  upon  a  measured 
trot,  which  soon  increased  to  a  rapid  run.  Since  1860  carts  are 
used  for  coffee. 

The  negro  porters  of  pianos  and  crockery  frequently  carry  in 
their  hands  musical  instruments,  resembling  children's  rattle- 
boxes:  these  they  shake  to  the  double-quick  time  of  some  wild 
Ethiopian  ditty,  which  they  all  join  in  singing  as  they  run. 
Music  has  a  powerful  effect  in  exhilarating  the  spirits  of  the 
negro;  and  certainly  no  one  should  deny  him  the  privilege  of 
softening  his  hard  lot  by  producing  the  harmony  of  sounds  which 
are  sweet  to  him,  though  uncouth  to  other  ears.  It  is  said,  how- 
ever, that  an  attempt  was  at  one  time  made  to  secure  greater 
quietness  in  the  streets  by  forbidding  them  to  sing.  As  a  conse- 
quence, they  performed  little  or  no  work;  so  the  restriction  was 
in  a  short  time  taken  off.  Certain  it  is  that  they  now  avail  them- 
selves of  their  vocal  privileges  at  pleasure,  whether  in  singing  and 
shouting  to  each  other  as  they  run,  or  in  proclaiming  to  the  people 
the  various  articles  they  curry  about  for  sale.  The  impression 
made  upon  the  stranger  by  the  mingled  sound  of  their  hundred 
voices  falling  upon  his  ear  at  once  is  not  soon  forgotten. 

"We  now  turn  from  the  busy  throng  of  the  Rua  Direita,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  we  ascend  the  steps  of  a  stately  building,  over  whose 
portico  we  read,  in  huge  green  letters, —  ALFANDEGA. 
We  will  not  stop  to  trace  the  origin  of  this  word  and  many  others 
in  the  Portuguese  tongue  beginning  with^Z,  to  their  Moorish  origin, 
but  will  immediately  inform  the  reader  that  it  is  the  first  word  he 
learns  in  Brazil,  and  one  which,  in  various  languages,  most  tra- 
vellers in  foreign  countries  have  occasion  to  remember.  This  is 
the  Custom-IIouse.  "We  enter  a  vast  hall  of  fine  architecture, 
lighted  by  a  graceful  dome.  There  are  hundreds  of  desj)atchers, 
merchants,  and  officers.     But  what  a  contrast  to  the  noisy  multi- 


The  Custom-IIouse.  81 

tude  of  the  Rua  Direita !  All  are  uncovered,  and,  as  each  enters 
the  hall,  the  hat  is  removed  and  not  replaced  until  the  portico  is 
again  reached.  What  a  capital  discipline  for  Anglo-American 
visitors  and  for  English  and  North  American  shipmasters,  whose 
head-coverings  seem  to  be  a  portion  of  their  corporeal  existence  ! 
I  once  heard  Albert  Smith,  in  one  of  his  delightful  conversaziones, 
say  that  in  foreign  lands  an  Englisbman  considers  it  a  part  of  the 
British  constitution  not  to  take  off  his  hat  except  when  "God  save 
the  Queen"  may  accidentally  fall  upon  his  ear.  The  Brazilian  is 
very  strict  in  the  outward  observance  of  politeness;  and,  as  he 
would  never  enter  a  private  residence  without  removing  his  hat, 
so  he  considers  tbat  he  should  not  enter  any  of  the  edifices  belong- 
ing to  the  Government  of  his  Emperor  without  showing  the  same 
respect. 

At  the  end  of  the  hall,  on  an  elevated  platform,  is  the  chief- 
collector,  who  is  constantly  engaged  in  signing  despatches  and 
various  other  custom-house  papers,  which  are  noiselessly  handed 
him  by  sub-officers  and  clerks.  The  inspector-in-chief,  who  presided 
over  the  Alfandega  of  Rio  in  1855,  was  Senhor  S.  Paio  Yianna, 
of  Bahia,  who,  though  strict  and  almost  rigorous  in  the  administra- 
tion of  his  office,  is  a  gentleman  of  great  intelligence  and  amenity 
of  manner.  He  took  a  deep  interest  in  the  finances  of  the  empire, 
and  his  annual  statement  was  clear  and  full  of  important  information 
to  the  commercial  statistician.  His  predecessor  was  Sr.  Ferraz,  to 
whom  is  greatly  due  the  immense  reforms  that  have  taken  place 
in  the  custom-house  of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  Formerly  it  was  most 
corruptly  administered  :  bribery  was  the  rule  and  not  the  excep- 
tion. To  this  day  some  most  wonderful  stories  are  told  of  the 
.  year  1844,  when  the  treaty  between  England  and  Bi'azil  expired, 
by  limitation,  in  the  month  of  November.  Bales,  bags,  and  boxes 
went  through  the  Custom-House  with  astonishing  rapidity;  and 
there  is  a  tradition  that  the  entire  cargo  of  a  schooner  entered  the 
rear  of  the  Alfandega,  and  in  a  remarkably  short  time  emerged 
from  the  Portilo  Grande,  {Great  Door.)  But  there  is  no  longer 
opportunity  for  such  abuses ;  and  the  largest  custom-house  of  the 
empire  is  as  well  conducted  as  those  of  Germany  or  France. 

At  the  left  of  the  chief-collector,  in  the  rear  of  a  row  of  sup- 
porting columns, — is  the  guarda  mor, — Sr.  Leopoldo  Augusto  da 


32  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Camara  Lima,  who  is  known  to  every  sliip-captain  as  Senhor 
Leopoldo.  This  gentleman,  who  speaks  the  Enghsh  language  most 
fluently,  has  been  arrayed  on  the  liberal  side  of  Brazilian  j)olitics 
for  the  last  twenty  years,  and  was  in  the  front  rank  of  those  who 
condemn  the  African  slave-trade,  which  was  so  completely  abolished 
in  1850.    The  office  of  the  guarda  mor  in  1865  is  nearer  the  water. 

The  vast  warehouses  of  the  Alfandega  extend  quite  to  the  sea- 
side.* Here  conveniences  are  constructed  for  landing  goods  under 
cover.  Once  out  of  boats  or  lighters,  they  are  distributed  and 
Btored  in  respective  departments,  until  a  requisition  is  formally 
made  for  their  examination  and  despatch.  The  removal  of  the 
various  articles  within  the  Custom-IIouse,  as  well  as  their 
transjiortation  to  the  great  door  of  exit,  is  facilitated  by  means  of 
small  iron  railways  extending  to  every  portion  of  the  many 
buildings. 

That  troublesome  delays  should  occasionally  occur  in  the  despatch 
of  goods  and  baggage  is  not  surprising  to  any  one  acquainted  with 
the  tedious  formalities  required  by  the  laws;  nor  would  it  be 
strange,  if,  among  the  host  of  empregados  or  sub-officers  connected 
with  this  establishment  upon  very  limited  pay,  some  are  occasionally 
found  who  will  embarrass  your  business  at  every  step  until  their 
favor  is  conciliated  by  a  direct  or  indirect  appropriation  of  money 
to  their  benefit;  but  this  is  more  rare  than  formerly. 

Most  of  the  large  commercial  houses  have  a  despatching-clerk, 
whose  especial  business  it  is  to  attend  upon  the  Alfandega;  and 
the  stranger  who  is  unaccustomed  to  the  language  and  customs  of 
the  country  will  always  avoid  much  inconvenience  by  obtaining 
the  services  of  one  of  these  persons.  From  my  own  experience  in 
passing  books  and  baggage  through  the  different  custom-houses 
of  Brazil,  I  am  prepared  to  say  that  a  person  who  understands  and 
endeavors  to  conform  to  the  laws  of  the  country  may  expect  in 
similar  circumstances  to  meet  with  kind  treatment  and  all  reason- 
able accommodations.  If,  however,  a  glance  at  your  watch  tells 
you,  in  the  midst  of  your  labors  and  difficulties,  that  three  o'clock 

*  In  the  "View  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  from  the  Island  of  Cobras,"  merely  the 
water-front  of  the  Alfandega  is  seen  extending  above  the  entire  width  of  the  palm- 
tree  ill  the  foreground. 


Lessons  in  Portuguese.  33 

is  near  at  hand,  and  you  undertake  to  urge  the  sub-collector  to  ex- 
pedite matters,  you  are  sure  to  receive  in  rejil}^,  '^Faciencia,senhor." 
This  is  our  second  lesson  in  Portuguese;  and  the  third  soon  follows 
in  response  to  our  demand,  "When  can  these  things  bo  de- 
spatched?" ^'Amanha"  (to-morrow,)  is  promptly  given.  But  should 
you  succeed  in  getting  through  the  portao  grande  about  the  time 
that  huge  door  is  being  closed  up  for  the  day,  you  will  witness  a 
lively  scene.  Boxes,  bales,  and  packages  of  every  species  of  goods, 
cases  of  furniture,  pipes  of  wine,  and  coils  of  rope,  lie  heaped 
together  in  a  confusion  only  equalled  by  the  crowd  of  clerks, 
feitors,  and  negroes,  who  block  up  the  whole  Eua  Direita  in  their 
rush  to  obtain  possession  of  their  several  portions,  and  in  their 
vociferations  to  hasten  the  removal  of  their  merchandise. 

We  ai'e  perhaps  wishing  to  expedite  the  tall  Mina  blacks  whom 
we  have  engaged  to  transport  our  luggage  to  its  place  of  desti- 
nation. By  signs  manual  our  meaning  is  comprehended,  but  we 
receive  a  very  cool  ^^Espera  um  pouco,  senhor,"  (Wait  a  little,  sir,) 
which  completes  our  studies  in  Portuguese  for  the  day.  And  what 
a  lesson  we  have  received ! 

Pacienciay  amanha,  and  espera  um  pouco!  These  words  in  action 
stare  the  nervous,  impatient,  tearing,  fretting  Anglo-American, 
everywhere  throughout  Brazil.  The  Hon.  Ex-Governor  Kent, 
whose  name  is  associated  with  the  Northeastern  boundary  and 
with  the  politics  of  New  England,  was  for  four  years  a  resident  of 
Rio  de  Janeiro  as  U.S.  Consul,  and  for  a  portion  of  the  time  as 
acting  Charge  d' Affaires.  It  was  his  deliberate  opinion  that  Brazil 
was  the  best  place  in  existence  to  cool  a  fervid,  speech-making, 
community-exciting  Yankee.  I  have  laughed  heartily  at  his  dry 
humorous  manner,  as  he  has  unfolded  con  arnore  this  subject: — 

"  There  is  to  a  quietly-disposed,  mild  man,  past  the  meridian  of 
life,  who  has  seen  many  of  the  rough  sides  of  humanity,  something 
agreeable  and  pleasant  in  the  tranquil,  calm,  noiseless  habits  of  the 
Brazilians.  To  live  a  whole  year  and  never  attend  a  caucus  or  an 
indignation-meeting,  to  hear  nothing  about  elections,  to  see  no 
gatherings  of  the  people,  to  read  no  placards  calling  upon  the  sove- 
reigns to  rise  and  vindicate  their  rights,  to  listen  to  no  stump- 
speeches  or  dinner-orations,  never  once  to  be  importuned  to  walk  or 
ride  in  ;i  political  procession,  to  see  not  one  torchlight-pageant  in 


34  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

honor  of  a  victory  which  has  saved  the  country  and  the  offices, — m 
short,  to  live  without  politics, — is,  to  one  who  is  inclined  to  quiet, 
or  who  has  been  wearied  out  in  the  service,  soothing  and  delightful." 

Though  the  nation,  by  steamships  and  railroads  and  general 
prosperity,  is  daily  becoming  more  active,  yet  it  may  be  still  pre- 
dicated that  the  Brazilian  is  not  accustomed  to  be  startled  and 
shocked  by  other  people's  miseries  and  w^oes.  With  a  free  and 
well-supported  press,  his  nature  demands  no  thrilling  evening 
editions,  filled  with  long  and  minute  accounts  of  the  last  steamboat 
disaster,  fearful  accidents,  or  horrible  murders.  As  a  general  thing, 
he  thinks  the  moral,  physical,  and  political  worlds  will  turn  on 
their  own  axes  without  his  interference.  Hence  it  was,  doubtless, 
that  some  of  the  far-seeing  and  really  wide-awake  statesmen  of 
flio  j)roposed  a  fine  of  five  dollars  to  be  imposed  upon  each  citizen 
who  did  not  come  up  to  the  polls  of  the  municipal  election  and  de- 
posit his  vote. 

Almost  every  one  who  arrives  at  Rio  is  expecting  letters  that 
have  anticipated  him  by  the  English  steamer,  and,  as  soon  as  his 
trunks  are  relieved  from  the  Custom-House,  he  makes  his  way  to 
the  Correio  Geral,  or  General  Post-Office,  in  the  Eua  Direita.  You 
pass  by  a  large  vestibule,  with  a  stone  floor,  occupied  by  several 
soldiers,  either  on  guard  or  sleeping  on  benches  at  the  extremities 
of  the  room,  and  upon  inquiry  you  ascertain  that  the  Postmaster 
General  and  the  larger  portion  of  his  employees  are  in- the  rooms 
above.  We  enter  the  front-door  of  the  large  apartment  adjoining 
this  vestibule.  On  the  right,  behind  a  high  counter,  are  the  letters 
and  newspapers  of  the  Post-Office,  distributed,  not  in  boxes,  accord- 
ing to  alphabetical  order,  but  in  heaps,  according  to  the  places 
from  whence  they  have  come;  as,  for  instance,  from  the  Mines, 
from  St.  Paul's,  and  other  important  points.  Corresponding  to 
this,  on  the  sides  of  the  room,  are  hung  numerical  lists  of  names, 
an-angcd  under  the  head  of  Cartas  de  Minas,  de  S.  Paulo,  kc.  The 
letters,  with  the  exception  of  those  belonging  to  certain  mercantile 
houses,  and  to  those  who  pay  an  annual  subscription  to  have  their 
correspondence  sent  them,  are  thrown  together  promiscuously,  and 
he  who  comes  first  has  the  pi-ivilege  of  looking  over  the  M-hole 
mass  and  selecting  such  as  belong  to  himself  or  his  friends.  This 
method  has  been  somewhat  modified  since  the  establishment  of 


The  Post-Office.  35 

Bteam-lines  to  Europe.     On  the  day  that  the  steamer  arrives  an 
immense  crowd  gathers  at  the  Post-Office;  hut  the  letters,  instead 
of  being  investigated  b}'  all  npon  the  counter,  are  carefully  kept 
in  the  back-part  of  the  hall,  where  four  persons  at  a  time  arc  ad- 
mitted.    There  is  just  cause  of  complaint  in  regard  to  the  delivery 
of  the  foreign  steamers'  (except  the  English)  mails.     The  English 
have   their   own   mail-agent.      The   whole   system   is   needlessly 
clumsy  and  inconvenient  for  a  city  of  three  hundred  thousand  in- 
habitants.    I  was  informed  at  Eio  that  some  years  since  Mr.  Gor- 
don, of  Boston,  who  was  then  U.S.  Consul,  offered  to  the  Brazilian 
Government  to  put  their  chief  Post-Office  on  the  same  footing  of 
efficiency  that  existed  in  the  United  States.     Mr.  Gordon  was  ad- 
mirably qualified  for  this,  having  been  for  a  number  of  years  the 
postmaster  of  the  largest  distributing  and  seaport  office  in  New 
England.     His  oifer  was  not  accepted;  for  the  Brazilians,  though 
more  progressive  than  most  South  American  people,  still  inherit 
many  characteristics  from  their  Portuguese  ancestors,  and  a  pro- 
minent one  is   dislike  of  change.     The   little   progress   that   the 
mother-country  has  made  during  the  last  few  centuries  is  admirably 
illustrated  in  the  following  well-known  story: — Once  upon  a  time 
Adam    requested    leave    to   revisit    this    world :    permission    Avas 
granted,  and  an  angel  commissioned  to  conduct  him.     On  wings 
of  love  the  patriarch  hastened  to  his  native  earth;  but  so  changed, 
so  strange,  all  seemed  to  him,  that  he  nowhere  felt  at  home  till  he 
came  to  Portugal.    "  Ah,  now,"  exclaimed  he,  "  set  me  down;  every- 
thing here  is  just  as  I  left  it." 

The  larger  mails,  departing  coastwise,  are  very  frequent,  regular, 
and  swift.  This  may  also  be  said  of  the  mail  to  Petropolis  by 
steamboat,  railway,  and  the  turnpike  of  the  Union  Industry'  Com- 
panj^.  Otherwise,  inland  transportation  of  letters  is  verj-  sIoav.  But 
when  the  D.  Pedro  II.  Eailway  and  similar  constructions  reach 
far  into  the  interior,  there  will  be  of  course  corresponding  im- 
provement in  this  respect.  The  inland  mails  to  the  distant 
provinces  depart  once  in  five  days,  and  return  at  corresponding 
intervals.  Their  transmission  through  the  country  is  slow  and 
tedious,  being  performed  on  horseback  or  by  foot-carriers,  at  an 
average,  throughout  the  empire,  of  twenty  miles  in  twenty-four 
hours.     Charges  for  postage  are  moderate,  and  a  traveller  to  any 


86  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

portion  of  the  country  is  permitted  to  carry  as  many  epistles  as 
his  friends  M'ill  intrust  to  him,  provided  they  have  the  Government 
stamp  affixed  to  them. 

There  is,  however,  one  exception  to  the  general  cheapness  of 
postage.  It  sometimes  happens  that  books  or  packages  which 
ought  to  have  passed  through  the  Custora-House  find  their  way  to 
the  Post-Office,  and  then  the  expense  is  extravagant.  There  is  a 
crying  evil  which  ought  to  be  remedied:  I  refer  to  the  charge  by 
the  post-office  clerks  on  letters  which  have  already  been  prepaid. 
ll;  amounts  to  downright  robbery.  If  the  officials  are  not  paid 
a  sufficient  salary,  let  the  Parliament  reform  the  thing,  so  that 
official  extortion  may  no  longer  continue. 

In  3^ears  gone  by,  we  next  sought  the  large  commercial  trapiche 
(warehouse)  of  Messrs.  Maxwell,  Wright  &  Co.  This  establishment 
was  long  well  known  as  the  leading  commission-house  of  Rio  de 
Janeiro.  It  was  built  up  under  the  supervision  of  the  vigilant  and 
prompt  Mr.  Joseph  Maxwell,  of.  Gibraltar,  and.  various  members 
of  his  family,  in  connection  with  the  Messrs.  Wright  of  Baltimore. 
Few  Americans  and  Englishmen  have  gone  to  Eio  without  receiving 
attentions  from  some  one  of  the  principals  or  employees  of  this 
house.  At  the  abundantly-spread  table  in  the  dining-room  of  the 
trapiche,  many  have  made  their  first  acquaintance  with  Brazilian 
dishes  and  with  the  refreshing  fruits  of  the  tropics. 

In  September,  1854,  Sr.  Jose  Maxwell,  the  senior  partner  of  this 
important  firm,  died ;  and  probably  the  funeral  of  no  other  private 
citizen  in  the  capital  or  the  empire  was  ever  attended  by  such  a 
throng  as  that  which  followed  to  the  grave  the  remains  of  this  kind 
father  and  respected  citizen.     This  firm  no  longer  exists. 

We  pass,  by  the  Eua  do  Eosario,  again  into  the  Eua  Direita,  and 
continue  our  promenade  up  the  Eua  do  Ouvidor,  which  is  the  com- 
bined Eue  Yivienne,  Eegent  Street,  and  Broadway  of  Eio.  It  is 
not,  however,  either  long  or  broad,  but  the  shops  upon  it  ai-e  bril- 
liant and  in  good  taste.  There  is  no  part  of  the  city  so  attractive 
to  the  recently-landed  foreigner  as  this  street,  with  its  print-shops, 
feather-flower  stores,  and  jewellery-establishments.  The  diamond, 
the  topaz  and  emerald  can  here  be  purchased  in  any  number,  and 
are  temptingly  displayed  behind  rich  plate-glass.  The  feather  and 
in«ect-flowers  manufactured  in  Brazil  ai-e  original  and  most  beauti- 


Feather-Flowers.  37 

tul.  The  early  Portuguese  found  that  the  Indians  adorned  them- 
selves with  the  rich  plumage  of  the  unsurpassingly  brilliant  birds 
of  the  forest.  In  the  Amazonian  regions  the  aborigines  have  not 
lost  either  the  taste  or  the  skill  of  their  ancestors,  and,  like  the 
cultivators  of  roses,  they  are  not  content  with  the  gorgeous  colors 
which  nature  has  painted,  but  by  artificial  means  produce  new 
varieties.  Thus,  on  the  Rio  Negro,  the  Uaupe  Indians  have  a  head- 
dress which  is  in  the  highest  estimation,  and  they  will  only  part 
with  it  under  the  pressure  of  the  greatest  necessity.  This  orna- 
ment consists  of  a  coronet  of  red  and  yellow  feathers  disposed  in 
regular  i-ows  and  firmly  attached  to  a  strong  plaited  band.  The 
feathers  are  entirely  from  the  shoulders  of  the  great  red  macaw; 
but  they  are  not  those  that  the  bird  naturally  possesses,  for  the 
Indians  have  a  curious  art  by  which  they  change  the  colors  of  the 
plumage  of  many  birds.  They  pluck  out  a  certain  number  of 
feathers,  and  in  the  various  vacancies  thus  occasioned  infuse  the 
milky  secretion  made  from  the  skin  of  a  small  frog.  When  the 
feathers  grow  again  they  are  of  a  brilliant  yellow  or  orange  color, 
without  any  mixture  of  green  or  blue  as  in  the  natural  state  of  the 
bird;  and  it  is  said  that  the  much-coveted  yellow  feather  will 
ever  after  be  rejDroduced  without  a  new  infusion  of  the  milky 
secretion. 

In  the  National  Museum  on  the  Campo  St.  Anna,  many  of  the 
curious  head-dresses  and  feather-robes  of  the  aboriginal  tribes 
attract  the  attention  of  the  visitor. 

There  are  few  curiosities  more  esteemed  in  Europe  and  the 
United  States  than  the  feather-flowers  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  and  Bahia. 
They  are  made  from  the  natural  plumage,  though  from  time  to 
time  the  novice  has  palmed  off"  upon  him  a  bouquet,  the  leaves  of 
which,  instead  of  being  fi'om  the  parrot,  have  been  stolen  from  the 
back  of  the  white  ibis  and  then  dyed.  This  deception  can,  how- 
ever, be  detected  by  observing  the  stem  of  the  feather  to  be  colored 
green,  which  never  is  the  case  in  nature.  No  one  travelling  in  the 
English  steamers  should  postpone  his  purchases  of  these  beautiful 
souvenirs  of  bright  birds  and  Brazil  until  he  arrives  at  St.  Vincent, 
for  the  numerous  pedlars  of  that  island  offer  an  inferior  article 
made  from  artificially-colored  feathers.  Rio  de  Janeiro  is  the  best 
mart  for  this  kind  of  merchandise.     No  oi-nament  can  surpass  the 


38  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

splendor  of  the  flowers  made  from  the  breasts  and  throats  of 
hunnning-birds.  A  hidy  whose  bonnet  or  hair  is  adorned  with 
such  plumage  seems  to  be  surrounded  with  flashes  of  the  most 
gorgeous  and  ever-varying  brilliancy.  The  carnations  and  other 
flowers  made  from  a  happy  combination  of  the  feathers  of  the 
scarlet  ibis  and  the  rose-colored  spoonbill  are  also  ver}'  natural,  and 
are  highly  prized.     Bourget,  115  Ouvidor,  is  the  best  naturalist. 

In  these  shops  we  may  also  find  fish-scale  floAvers,  and  those 
manufactured  from  the  wings  of  insects,  and  breast-pins  which  are 
made  by  setting  a  small  brilliant  beetle  in  gold. 

From  the  Kua  do  Ouvidor  we  turn  into  the  Eua  dos  Ourives, 
(Goldsmiths'  Street,)  where  are  scores  of  shops  filled  with  large 
quantities  of  silver  android  ornaments,  from  a  spur  to  a  crucifix. 

We  now  wend  our  way  through  the  Largo  de  S.  Francisco  de  Paula 
to  the  Largo  do  Eocio,  (or  Statue  Square,  as  it  is  termed  by  the 
English,)  where  we  take  an  omnibus  for  Botafogo.  The  Brazilian 
omnibus  is  very  much  like  its  prototype  in  all  parts  of  the  world, 
with  this  single  and  very  important  exception  : — it  is  not  elastic. 
A  New  York  or  Philadelphia  omnibus  is  provei'bially  "never  full;" 
but  the  same  kind  of  vehicle  in  Eio  can  be  filled,  and,  when  once 
complete,  the  conductor  closes  the  door,  cries  "  Vainos  ^mbora,"  (Let 
us  be  off",)  the  driver  flourishes  his  long  thong  and  sets  his  four- 
mule  team  into  a  gallop.  Away  we  go,  rattling  across  gutters  as 
if  there  were  none,  and  rushing  through  narrow  streets  as  if  negro 
water-carriers  had  no  existence.  It  is  curious  to  behold  the  heavy- 
laden  slaves  clearing  the  street  and  dodging  into  open  shop-doors 
as  an  omnibus  appears  in  sight.  Few  accidents  occur;  and,  when 
they  do,  prompt  reparation  is  made.  On  one  occasion  I  was  in  a 
"gondola"  in  the  narrow  Eua  S.  Jose.  Our  four  long-eared  beasts 
were  plunging  on  at  a  fearful  rate,  and,  being  much  more  un- 
manageable than  horses,  could  not  be  pulled  up  until  the  fore-wheel 
crunched  upon  the  legs  of  a  poor  old  mullatress.  She  was  severely 
but  not  fatally  injured,  and  was  instantly  cared  for.  The  gondola- 
driver,  however,  I  never  saw  again  holding  the  reins.  The  House 
of  Correction,  or  one  of  the  many  prisons,  was,  without  doiibt,  his 
abode  for  the  next  few  months. 

The  streets,  with  their  diminutive  sidewalks,  are  so  narrow  that 
in  many  of  them  only  one  vehicle  can  pass  at  a  time.     I  was  more 


I^  ARROW  Streets  and  Police-Reg  ulatioxs. 


39 


than  once  remiuded  of  Pompeii  and  Ilerculaneiim,  not  only  in  some 
of  the  commonest  utensils  and  mechanic  implements,  in  the  open 
shop-windows,  and  in  the  house  of  the  Brazilian,  who  demands  a 
fine  parlor,  (the  atrium,)  and  yet  will  sleep  in  a  windowless  alcove 
like  a  dungeon's  cell ;  but  in  nothing  was  the  resemblance  more 
striking  than  in  the  narrow  ruas,  which,  doubtless,  had  their 
origin  in  the  desire  to  procui*e  shade.  Mr.  George  S.  Ilillard,  in 
his  thought-begetting  "Six  Months  in  Ital}^,"  says  of  the  narrow 
thoroughfares  of  Pompeii,  "As  each  vehicle  must  have  occupied 
the  space  between  the  curbstones,  w^c  are  left  wnthout  any  means 
of  conjecturing  what  expedients  were  resorted  to,  or  what  police- 
regulations  were  in  force,  when  two  carriages,  moving  in  different 
directions,  met  each  other."  If  this  accomplished  author  had 
visited  Eio  de  Janeiro  previous  to  his  excursion  to  the  buried  cities 
of  Magna  Grecia,  the  mystery  would  have  been  solved.  In  the 
narrow  Euas  Ouvidor,  Posario,  Hospicio,  Alfandega,  S.  Jose,  and 
others,  carriages  and  omnibuses  never  meet;  and  so  admirable  are 
the  police-regulations  that  no  mistakes  ever  occur.  At  the  corner 
of  each  of  these  streets  where  it  is  crossed  by  another,  we  see 
painted,  with  great  distinctness,  an  index  immediately  under  the 
name  of  the  street.  Thus,  two  of  the  streets  mentioned  above  are 
adjacent  to  and  parallel  w^ith  each  other,  and  are  crossed  by  the 
Puas  Direita  and  Quitanda.  Upon  their  Eua  Direita  corners  wo 
behold  the  following  : — 


ISTow,  if  I  am  in  a  carriage  at  the  point  where  the  Euas  Direita  and 
Eosario  cross  each  other,  and  I  wnsh  to  visit  a  shop  at  the  corner 
of  the  latter  street  and  the  Eua  Quitanda,  although  it  is  more  direct 
for  me  to  ascend  by  the  Eua  do  Eosario,  yet  my  Jehu  knows  that 


40 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


if  he  should  go  contrary  to  the  index  he  would  be  subjected  to  a 
heavy  fine  and  forfeitui'e  of  certain  privileges  as  a  coachman.  He 
therefore  whirls  through  the  Direita,  up  the  Eua  do  Ouvidor,  and 
along  the  Quitanda,  travelling  the  three  sides  of  the  square,  and 
thus  avoiding;  all  colUsion. 


J 


Rua  da  Quitanda. 


Kua  Direita. 


J 


r 


In  the  city  of  New  York  there  has  been  for  many  years  every 
imaginable  proposition  for  the  relief  of  Broadway,  and  there  is 
scarcely  a  citizen"  or  visitor  in  that  vast  emporium  who  has  not  on 
more  than  one  occasion  been  subjected  to  great  inconvenience  by 
the  regular  "blockade"  instituted  every  day  in  the  lower  part 
of  that  immense  thoroughfare,  the  whole  of  which  might  have  been 
avoided  by  the  simple  application  of  the  Brazilian  plan,  and  thus 
making  the  innumerable  omnibuses,  drays,  carts,  and  cai'riages 
descend  Broadway,  and  those  vehicles  that  are  uptown  ward  ascend 
Greenwich  Street. 

But  onward  rushes  our  omnibus  at  a  rapid  pace.  We  whirl  by 
the  Carioca  Fountain,  and,  before  we  can  give  a  second  look  at  the 
green  sides  of  the  Antonio  Hill,  we  are  bowling  along  under  the 
garden-walls  of  the  lofty  Ajuda  Convent.  All  seems  dismal, 
with  the  exception  of  the  foliage  that  appears  above  the  high 
enclosure.  A  turn  brings  us  into  the  Largo  da  Ajuda,  and  at  once 
we  have  the  wonderful  view — to  Northern  qjq%  at  least — of  the 
Passeio  Publico,  (Public  Promenade,')  and  before  us  the  verdant 
slopes  of  the  Santa  Theresa  Hill.     From  beneath  the  tropic-trees 


The  Passeio  Publico. 


41 


which  cover  the  latter,  neat  white  cottages  are  peeping,  and,  for 
a  residence,  no  elevation  within  the  city  is  preferable  to  Santa 
Theresa.  The  Passeio  Publico,  which  we  are  passing,  was  a 
favorite  resort  of  mine  at  Rio:  and  at  all  times — whether  at  nifrht 
when  it  is  brilliantly  illuminated,  or  in  the  brightest  hour  of  the 
day — it  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  promenades  within  the  precincts 
of  the  municipality.     Hero  are  overhanging  trees,  blooming  para- 


AQUEDUCT,     LARGO     DA     LAPA,    AND     PASSEIO     PUBLICO,     FROM     THE     SANTA    THERESA. 

sites,  rare  plants,  shady  walks,  and  cool  fountains.  On  the  side 
which  fronts  the  bay  is  a  large  terrace,  from  which  is  a  magnifi- 
cent prospect  of  the  Gloria  Hill,  the  distant  Sugar-Loaf,  and,  far 
beyond,  the  rolling  ocean. 

Having  passed  this  public  garden,  we  are  in  the  square  called 
Largo  da  Lapa.  The  palatial  building  on  our  right  was  purchased 
a  few  years  ago  for  the  National  Library,  and  was  formerly  one 
of  the  most  splendid  private  mansions  in  Rio. 

Over  a  superbly-paved  street  our  omnibus  is  hurrying ;  but  from 


42  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

time  to  time  an  open  gate  or  a  tall  Cape  of  Good  Hope  pine-tree 
tells  us  that  gardens  are  in  the  rear  of  forbidding  looking  walls. 
We  dash  along  what  is  called  the  "Coast  of  Africa," — a  long  row 
of  low  houses  on  our  right;  while  on  our  left  the  bay  is  beneath 
us,  and  therefore,  the  street  being  unshaded,  the  appi'opriateness  of 
the  hot  cognomen.  That  large  three-story  building,  formerly  the 
English  Embassy,  was  a  foundling  hospital.  The  Chafariz  of  St. 
Theresa  is  built  up  against  a  portion  of  the  rock  of  the  jutting 
hill  whence  it  derives  its  name.  After  ^^assing  the  gardens  of  the 
late  Bariio  de  Mcriti  and  the  Gloria  Hill,  our  passengers  begin 
to  descend  at  the  various  streets  which  cross  the  Catete,  which  is 
the  widest  thoroughfare  in  this  portion  of  the  capital.  Each  per- 
son, as  he  rises  to  depart,  lifts  his  hat,  and  the  compliment  is 
returned  by  every  individual  in  the  omnibus,  though  all  may  be 
entire  strangers.  No  one  ever  enters  a  large  public  conveyance  in 
Rio  without  saluting  those  within  and  receiving  in  return  a  polite 
acknowledgment  of  his  presence.  Yery  frequently  a  pinch  of  snuff 
is  offered  to  you  by  your  unknown  neighbor.  I  have  seen  gentle- 
men but  recently  returned  from  Brazil  enter  a  New  York  omnibus 
and  deferentially  salute  the  inmates :  the  polite  strangers  were 
received  with  a  smile  of  derision  or  looked  upon  with  a  stare 
of  contempt. 

Each  omnibus  has  painted  in  -large  characters  upon  its  sides  its 
capacity:  thus,  "14  pessoas"  means  that  the  vehicle  is  registered 
at  the  Bureau  de  Police  to  contain  that  number  of  persons,  and 
one  passenger  more  than  the  registered  number  would  subject  the 
company  to  a  heavy  fine.  I  have  never  seen  more  passengers 
within  than  the  figures  on  the  side  indicated. 

I  have  more  than  once  mentioned  the  "gondola," — that  name 
associated  with  love-romance  and  Venice,  "moonrise,  high  mid- 
night, and  the  voice  of  song."  When  I  fii'st  heard  that  melli- 
fluous term  in  Brazil,  I  fancied  that  the  sharp  and  graceful  little 
barges  of  the  Queen  of  the  Adriatic  had  been  transported  to  the 
bright  waters  of  Rio  de  Janeiro;  but  I  soon  discovered  my  mis- 
take, and  ascertained  that  this  sweet  Italian  word  was  used  to 
designate  most  unpoetic  four-wheeled  vehicles,  drawn  by  as  many 
kicking,  stubborn  mules  !  The  gondola  in  every  respect  resembles 
the  omnibus,  save  that  no  conductor  accompanies  it.     You  prepay 


The  Gondola.  43 

Senhor  Bernardo  or  a  Senhor  som.cbody  else  at  the  Largo  do  Pago ; 
and  if  there  ai*o  any  way-fares,  these  are  received  by  the  driver. 
The  o-ondola  does  not  have  the  convenience  which  the  New  York 
onniibiis  possesses,  in  the  shape  of  the  leather  strap  by  which  the 
passenger  causes  the  driver  to  pull  up  at  the  will  of  the  former. 
In  lieu  of  this,  passengers  make  a  very  free  use  of  canes,  umbrellas, 
and  lists,  battering  at  a  terrible  rate  the  end  of  the  gondola  nearest 
the  driver;  or  occasionally  the  leg  of  the  latter  is  rather  more 
warmly  than  affectionately  embraced  by  the  individual  sitting  next  to 
the  farther  window.  Sometimes  the  gondola  cannot  be  "pi-opelled" 
by  its  living  oars;  and,  under  such  circumstances,  when  a  Scotch- 
man, a  Yankee,  or  a  Frenchman  will  relieve  himself  of  many  hard 
woi'ds  at  the  unfortunate  Jehu,  the  Brazilians  z'cmain  perfectly 
calm,  not  once  descending  to  see  what  is  the  matter,  and  con 
versing  with  one  another  as  philosophically  as  if  nothing  had  hap- 
pened. On  one  occasion  I  was  witness  to  a  scene  which  will  scarce!}'' 
be  credited.  As  a  gondola  full  of  passengers  was  turning  out 
of  the  Rua  dos  Ourives,  it  unfortunately  "  stuck."  The  driver 
shouted  at  his  mules,  thrashed  them  with  his  long  raw-hide  thong, 
tcheiced*  at  them,  and  stamped  his  footboard,  all  to  no  purpose  : 
the  animals  could  not  start  the  vehicle.  Not  one  passenger  got 
out,  but  all  looked  from  the  windows  as  if  this  was  a  part  of  the 
programme  for  which  they  had  paid  their  dous  testoes,  (five  English 
pence,)  and  they  determined  to  have  their  money's  worth.  The 
poor  driver  was  in  deep  distress  :  quite  a  crowd  collected,  but  no 
one  offered  to  aid  him,  until  he,  by  sundry  vintems,  allured  the  sez'- 
vices  of  several  Africans,  whose  broad  shoulders  applied  to  the 
wdieels,  in  conjunction  with  the  pulling  of  the  mules,  moved  gon- 
dola, passengers,  and  all. 

Having  something  of  a  philological  turn,  I  inquired  why  these 
public  conveyances  were  called  gondolas.  I  was  not  long  in  ascer- 
taining that  a  monopoly  had  been  gi-anted  to  certain  omnibus  com- 
panies, which  was  considered  onerous,  but  the  municipal  govern- 
ment could  not  in  conscience  abolish  the  contract  or  confer  a  new 


*  A  sound  unrepresentable  by  letters,  similar  to  that  made  in  the  United  States 
in  scaring  chickens,  by  which  all  classes,  high  and  low,  in  Brazil,  call  the  atten- 
tion of  others.     18G6,  all  the  gondolas  have  conductors. 


44  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

charter  upon  another  omnibus  association;  however,  all  scruples 
were  finally  overcome  by  granting  privileges  to  a  gondola  company 
to  carry  passengers ! 

We  will  end  our  ride  at  the  Ponta  do  Catete,  and  will  thence 
make  our  way  to  the  Hotel  dos  Estrangciros,  at  the  commencement 
of  the  Caminho  Velho  de  Botafogo ;  or  we  may  walk  a  few  steps 
farther,  and  enter  Johnson's  Hotel,  on  the  Caminho  Novo.  The 
Hotel  dos  Estrangciros  is  a  large  house  kept  on  the  French  plan ; 
the  Hotel  Johnson  is  where  Englishmen  "  most  do  congregate," 
and  where  one  can  find  more  comfort  than  at  any  other  establish- 
ment for  the  accommodation  of  the  public  in  the  city.  Both  are 
surrounded  by  verdure,  whether  we  consider  the  neighboring  gar- 
dens, or  the  adjacent  hills,  whose  sides  are  covered  with  luxuriantly- 
foliaged  trees  and  clambering  vines.  Johnson's  Hotel  no  longer  exists. 

The  stranger  at  Eio  de  Janeiro  is  usually  surprised  at  the 
scarcity  of  inns  and  boarding-houses.  There  are  several  French 
and  Italian  hotels,  with  apartments  to  let;  and  these  ai'c  chiefly 
supported  by  the  numerous  foreigners  constantly  arriving  and 
temporarily  residing  in  the  place.  But  among  the  native  po^nila- 
tion,  and  intended  for  Brazilian  patronage,  there  are  only  eight  or 
ten  inns  in  a  city  of  three  hundi-ed  thousand  inhabitants,  and 
scai'cely  any  of  these  exceed  the  dimensions  of  a  private  house. 
It  is  almost  inconceivable  how  the  numerous  visitors  to  this  great 
emporium  find  necessary  accommodations.  It  may  safely  be  pre- 
sumed that  they  could  not,  without  a  heavy  draught  upon  the 
hospitalities  of  the  inhabitants,  with  whom,  in  many  instances, 
a  letter  of  introduction  secures  a  home.  In  the  lack  of  such  a 
resort,  the  sojourner  rents  a  room,  and,  by  the  aid  of  his  servant 
and  a  few  articles  of  furnitui*e,  soon  manages  to  live,  with  more  or 
less  frequent  resorts  to  some  caza  de  pasto  or  restaurant.  Most 
of  the  members  of  the  National  Assembly  keep  up  domestic  esta- 
blishments during  their  sojourn  in  the  capital.  As  a  consequence 
of  this  lack  of  hotels  and  boarding-houses,  some  of  the  commercial 
firms  maintain  a  table  for  the  convenience  of  their  clerks  and 
guests.  This  was  once  much  more  common ;  but,  since  1850,  pro- 
bably the  greater  portion  of  those  formerly  thus  accommodated 
club  together,  rent  a  house  in  Botafogo,  Praia  Grande,  or  on  the 
Santa  Theresa,  and  keep  up  an  establishment  of  their  own. 


First  ISTigiit  in  the  Tropics.  46 

Having  thus  been  cicerone  of  the  reader  in  his  rapid  whir? 
through  this  cit}'  of  the  tropics,  I  know  of  no  fitter  termination 
to  the  day  than  for  him  to  imagine  himself  in  one  of  the  vast 
rooms  of  the  Hotel  dos  Estrangeiros. 

For  many  days,  in  a  narrow  berth,  you  have  been  rudely  rocked 
by  the  billows,  and  this  is  the  first  night  on  terra  firma  and  a  com- 
fortable bed.  The  windows  of  your  apartment  are  wide  open,  and, 
as  you  close  your  eyes,  the  land-breeze,  murmuring  softly,  bears 
upon  its  wings  not  only  the  sweet,  fresh  smell  of  the  earth,  but, 
stealing  in  its  course  from  the  adjacent  gardens  the  fragrance  of 
jessamines,  the  delicate  scent  of  the  flora-pondia,  and  the  odor  of 
the  opening  orange-blooms,  it  loads  the  evening  air  with  the 
richest  aroma.  The  distant  booming  of  the  waves,  as  they  break 
upon  the  Praia  do  Flamengo,  is  a  soothing  melody,  which  lulls 
you  to  dreams  of  scenes  not  more  lovely  than  those  around  you, 
where  are 

"  Larger  constellations  burning,  mellow  moons  and  happy  skies, 
Breadths  of  tropic  shade,  and  palms  in  cluster,  knots  of  paradise," — 

a  land  w^here 

"  Slides  the  bird  o'er  lustrous  woodland,  swings  the  trailer  from  the  crag, 
Droops  the  heavy-blossom'd  bower,  hangs  the  heavy-fruited  tree, — 
Summer-isles  of  Eden  lying  in  dark  purple  spheres  of  sea." 

Note  for  1866. — The  engravings  on  pages  28  and  29,  though  graphically  re- 
presenting the  state  of  things  in  1855,  are  no  longer  apropos.  They  are  kept  as 
a  matter  of  history.  The  Government  has  forbidden  such  exhausting  and  cruel 
labor  of  the  slaves.  Carts  now  carry  the  coffee.  But  the  municipality  of  Rio 
should  go  one  step  further,  and  charge  three  times  the  amount  for  license  on  every 
cart  which  does  not  have  springs.  To  say  nothing  of  the  immense  weight  of  the 
vehicle  now  in  use,  whose  parallel  can  only  be  found  in  Portugal,  it  acts  like  a 
sledge-hammer  to  constantly  batter  the  pavement  to  pieces.  A  cart  with  springs 
could  be  made  just  as  strong  with  half  the  weight,  and  one  mule  could  propel  as 
much  as  two  with  the  present  brutal  street-destroying  machine.  We  are  glad  to 
see  already  a  few  New  York  spring-carts  at  Rio.  Have  more,  and  the  Flumi- 
nenses  will  pay  less  for  their  pavement  taxes. 


CHAPTEE  111. 

DISCOVERY     OF     SOUTH     AMERICA  —  PINZON'S    VISIT    TO    BRAZIL  —  CABRAL^COELHO 

AMERICUS     VESPUCIUS THE     NAME    "  BRAZIL" BAY     OF     BIO     DE     JANEIRO 

MARTIN    AFFONSO    DE    SOUZA PAST   GLORY    OF    PORTUGAL COLIGNy's    HUGUENOT 

COLONY  —  THE    PROTESTANT     BANNER     FIRST     UNFURLED     IN     THE    NEW    WORLD 

TREACHERY     OF    VILLEGAGNON CONTEST    BETWEEN     THE     PORTUGUESE    AND    THE 

FRENCH DEFEAT    OF     THE     LATTER SAN     SEBASTIAN    FOUNDED — CRUEL    INTOLE- 
RANCE  REFLECTIONS. 

Although  the  bay  and  city  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  are  fraught  with 
interesting  associations  to  the  general  student  of  history,  and  still 
more  to  the  Protestant  Christian  as  that  portion  of  the  New  World 
where  the  banner  of  the  Eeformed  religion  was  first  unfurled,  yet 
I  have  thought  it  best  to  introduce  here  a  brief  account  of  the 
early  discovery  and  settlement  of  Brazil. 

Guanihani  —  that  outpost  of  the  New  Woi'ld — was  beheld  by 

European  ej'es  six  j'ears  before  the  .discovery  of  South  America. 

In  1498,  Columbus  landed  near  the  mouth  of  the  Orinoco.     Ho 

recorded,  in  enthusiastic  language,  "  the  beauty  of  the  new  land," 

and  declared  that  he  felt  as  if  "he  could  never  leave  so  charming 

a  spot."     The  honor,  however,  of  discovering  the  "Western  heini- 

sphere  south  of  the  equator  must  be  awarded  to  Vincent  Yanez 

Pinzon,  Avho  was  a  companion  of  Columbus,  and  had  commanded 

the  ''Niua"  in  that  first  glorious  voj'^age  which  made  known  to  the 

Old  World  the  existence  of  tlio  New.     Pinzon  sailed  from  Palos  in 

December,  1499,  and,  crossing  the  equator,  his  eyes  were   Had- 

dened,  on   the  26th  of  Januarj^,  1500,  by  a  green   promontory, 

which  he  called  Cape  Consolation.     This  is  now  known  as  Cape 

St.  Augustine,  the  headland  just  south  of  the  city  of  Pernambuco. 

He  sailed  tlience  northward,  discovering  the  vast  mouths  of  the 

Amazon,    and    touched    at   various   points   until    he   reached    the 

Orinoco. 

AVhen    Pinzon    beheld    the    palm-groves    and    densely-foliaged 
46 


Discoveries  of  Pinzon  and  Cabral.  47 

forests,  and  had  scented  the  spic^''  breezes  Avhich  were  wafted  from 
the  shore,  he  supposed  that  he  was  visiting  India-be3'ond-tho- 
Ganges,  and  believed  that  he  had  already  sailed  past  the  renowned 
Cathay.  In  the  name  of  Castile  he  took  possession  of  the  goodly 
land ;  but,  before  he  reached  Spain,  Pedro  Alvares  Cabral,  a  distin- 
guished Portuguese  navigator,  had  claimed  the  territory  for  his 
own  monarch.  On  the  return  of  Vasco  da  Gama  to  Portugal,  in 
1499,  with  the  certainty  of  having  discovered  the  route  to  the 
Indies  by  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  the  king  Pom  Emanuel 
determined  to  send  a  large  fleet  to  those  famous  regions,  with 
instructions  to  enter  into  commercial  relations  with  the  Eastern 
sovereigns,  or,  in  case  of  refusal,  to  make  war  upon  them  and  sub- 
due them.  The  command  of  this  expedition  was  intrusted  to 
Cabral,  and,  on  the  9th  of  March,  the  large  fleet,  with  its  fifteen 
hundred  soldiers  and  mariners,  sailed  amid  grand  militarj^  and 
religious  ceremonials,  the  king  himself  honoring  the  occasion  by 
his  august  presence.  With  this  handful  of  men,  intended  for  the 
coercion  of  the  Orient  to  the  commercial  notions  of  Portugal, 
Cabral  directed  his  course  to  the  Cape  de  Yerdes,  and  thence,  in 
order  to  avoid  the  calms  which  prevail  on  the  African  coast,  he  ran 
so  fiir  to  the  westward,  that,  without  any  intention  on  his  part,  he 
discovered,  on  the  21st  of  April,  1500,  the  same  land  which,  ninety 
days  previously,  had  been  visited  by  Pinzon.  Cabral's  discovery 
was,  however,  in  the  present  pi'ovince  of  Espirito  Santo,  neai 
Mount  Pascal,  which  is  eight  degrees  south  of  Cape  St.  Augustine. 
Some  Brazilian  writers  grudgingly  mention  the  voyage  of  Pin- 
zon; others  ignore  him  altogether,  wishing  seemingly  to  ascribe 
all  the  glory  to  one  of  their  own  Portuguese  ancestors.  Doubtless 
Cabral  was  led  by  the  trade-winds  and  by  the  currents — of  which 
he  w^as  not  aware — to  the  coast  of  Brazil,  and  thus  made  his  tbr- 
tunate  discovery.  To-day,  vessels  sailing  from  Europe  for  the  East 
Indies  can  (as  is  well  demonstrated  by  Lieutenant  Maury's  wind 
and  current  charts)  make  the  swiftest  voyages  by  taking  advan- 
tage  of  the  wonderful  trade-winds,  steering  first  toward  South 
Amei'ica  and  afterward  in  the  direction  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 
Pinzon  set  forth  from  Palos  with  the  intention  of  making  Western 
discoveries;  Cabral  sailed  from  Lisbon  with  instructions  to  pro- 
ceed to  the  Eastern  discoveries  of  Vasco  da  Gama ;   but,  because  a 


48  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

happy  accident  (some  say  a  fierce  storm)  forced  his  fleet  to  Brazil, 
and  that,  too,  months  after  the  landing  of  the  Spanish  navigator 
at  Cape  St.  Augustine,  there  is  neither  reason  nor  justice  in  the 
national  pride  -which  endeavors  to  take  away  the  priority  of  dis- 
covery from  Vincent  Yanez  Pinzon. 

On  Easter  Sunday  mass  was  celebrated;  and  on  the  1st  of  May 
this  solemnity  was  repeated,  and,  in  the  presence  of  thousands 
of  the  aborigines,  a  huge  cross  was  erected,  bearing  the  insignia 
of  Dom  Emanuel,  and  the  land,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of 
Vera  Cruz,  was  solemnly  taken  possession  of  in  the  name  of  the 
King  of  Portugal.* 

It  was  the  Padre  Frei  Henrique,  of  Coimbra,  who  conducted  the 
religious  ceremonies,  and  in  which  he  was  piously  joined  (so  reads 
the  chronicle)  by  os  indigenos  imitando  os  gestos  e  movimentos  dos 
Portugezes,  (the  savages  imitating  the  gestures  and  movements  of 
the  Portuguese.) 

Two  convicts  were  left  with  the  natives,  and  one  of  these  after- 
ward became  of  great  use  as  an  interpreter.  Cabral  despatched 
Gaspar  de  Lemos  to  Lisbon,  to  inform  the  monarch  of  the  dis- 
covery and  appropriation  of  the  new  land  of  the  'True  Cross,  and 
then  pursued  his  route  to  the  East  Indies.  The  Pope  of  Pome 
laid  down  a  rule  regulating  the  proprietorship  of  countries  dis- 
covered by  Spain  and  Portugal,  and  thus  was  disposed  the  question 
between  Pinzon  and  Cabral. 

The  king  Dom  Emanuel  was  deeply  interested  in  the  intelli- 
gence brought  him  by  Gaspar  de  Lemos,  and,  in  May,  1501,  sent 
out  to  his  new  dominions  three  caravellas  under  the  command 
of  Gon^alo  Coelho.f  In  one  of  these  vessels  was  Americus  Ves- 
pucius.  This  expedition  partook  more  of  the  character  of  failure 
than  of  success,  and  was  replaced,  in  1503,  by  a  second,  which, 
consisting  of  double  the  number  of  ships  employed  in  the  first, 
sailed,  according  to  some  authorities,  under  Christopher  Jacques ;f 
according  to  others,  under  the  same  Gongalo  Coelho,J  accompanied 


*  Historia  do  Brazil,  by  Gen.  J.  I.  de  Abreu  Lima.     Rio  de  Janeiro,  1843. 
I  Ibid.  vol.  i.  chap.  ii. 

\  Epitome  da  Hist,  do  Brazil,  (by  Jose  Pedro  Xavier  Pinheiro.     Bahia,  1854,) 
chap.  i.  p.  27. 


The  Name  "Brazil."  49 

again  by  Americu8.  Four  of  these  vessels  were  lost,  with  the 
commander-in-chief;  but  the  lucky  Florentine  escaped,  and  lived 
to  deprive,  indirectly,  the  new  territory  of  the  name  conferred 
upon  it  by  Cabral/" 

The  two  remaining  ships  entered  a  bay,  now  supposed  to  be  the 
spacious  Bahla  cle  Todos  os  Santos,  and  afterward  coasted  south- 
ward two  hundred  and  sixteen  leagues,  and  there  remained  five 
months  anchored  near  the  land,  and  maintained  amicable  relations 
with  the  natives.  Here  they  erected  a  fortress,  and  left  in  it 
twentj'-four  men. 

As  the  most  valuable  part  of  the  cargo  which  Americus  Ves- 
pucius  carried  back  to  Europe  was  the  well-known  dyewood,  Ccesal- 
pinia  Braziliensis, — called,  in  the  Portuguese  language,  pau  brazil, 
on  account  of  its  resemblance  to  brazas,  "coals  of  fii^e," — the  land 
whence  it  came  was  termed  the  "  land  of  the  brazil-wood ;"  and, 
finally,  this  appellation  was  shortened  to  Brazil,  and  completely 
usurped  the  names  Vera  Cruz  or  Santa  CruzS^^  This  change  was 
not  effected  without  protestations  on  the  part  of  some, — not  because 
their  taste  for  euphony  was  shocked,  but  on  the  ground  that  the 
cause  of  religion  required  a  sacred  title  to  the  fairest  possession 
of  faithful  Lusitania  in  the  ISTew  World.  One  of  the  reverendis- 
simos  declared  that  it  was  through  the  expi*ess  interposition  of  the 
devil  that  such  a  choice  and  lovely  land  should  be  called  Brazil 
instead  of  the  pious  cognomen  given  to  it  by  Cabral.  Another — 
a  devoted  Jesuit — poured  forth  a  jeremiad  on  the  subject,  con- 
cluding, with  emphasis,  by  stating  what  a  shame  it  was  that  "the 
cuiDidity  of  man,  by  unworthy  traffic,  should  change  the  wood 
of  the  cross,  red  with  the  real  blood  of  Christ,  for  that  of  another 
wood  which  resembled  it  only  in  color"  ! 

Other  voyages  were  undertaken  at  the  order  of  Spain  and  of 
Portugal, — thus  making  known  the  whole  coast  of  Eastern  South 
America  from  the  Amazon  to  the  Straits  of  Majellan.  Among  the 
navigators  at  the  head  of  these  expeditions  were  De  Soils  and  Ma- 
jellan, (Magalhiies.)  In  1515,  De  Soils  sailed  on  his  Southern  voyage, 
and  discovered  the  Eio  de  la  Plata,  which  at  first  bore  his  own  name. 
On  his  way  thither,  he  entered  the  bay  now  known  as  Eio  de  Janeiro. 
Fernando  de  Majellan,  a  Portuguese  in  the  service  of  Charles  I.  of 
Spain,  sailed,  in  1519,  to  discover  the  western  passage  to  the  Indies. 


50  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

On  the  13th  of  Deccmbei'  he  entered  the  bay  previously  visited  by 
Do  SoHs,  and  remained  there  until  the  27th  of  the  same  month,  and 
gave  to  it  the  name  of  Bahia  (bay)  de  Santa  Luzia, — the  day  of  his 
entrance  being  the  anniversary  of  that  saint.  He  afterward  coasted 
along  the  continent  until  he  entered  those  sti'aits  which  still  bear 
his  name,  and  which  were  for  a  century  the  only  known  highway 
to  the  Pacific.  Majellan  was  the  first  to  circumnavigate  the  globe. 
The  usual  account  of  the  origin  of  the  term  Rio  de  Janeiro,  so 
inappropriately  given  to  a  bay,  has  already  been  referred  to.  The 
facts  seem  to  be  adverse  to  the  generally-accepted  explanation  that 
Martin  AfFonso  de  Souza  discovered  this  sheet  of  water — which  he 
supposed  to  be  a  river — on  the  1st  of  Januarj^,  1531.  It  is  incon- 
testable that  it  was  entered  twice  at  least  several  years  previous  to 
his  departure  from  Portugal.  JVIartin  Affonso  de  Souza  was  a 
Portuguese  gentleman  of  noble  lineage,  and  of  high  estimation  in 
the  court  of  Dom  John  HI.  The  king,  having  received  information 
of  the  visits  of  Spaniards  to  the  coasts  which  he  considered  his 
own,  determined  to  send  an  expedition,  commanded  by  De  Souza, 
to  Brazil.  De  Souza  had  plenary  powers  on  land  and  on  sea,  and 
was  to  fortify  and  distribute  the  new  territory.  He  was  the  first 
donatory  of  Portugal  in  Brazil,  and  sailed  from  Lisbon  on  the  3d 
of  December,  1530.  In  a  few  weeks  he  sighted  Cape  St.  Augustine, 
near  which  he  encountered  three  French  vessels.  He  .gave  them 
battle,  came  off  victorious,  and  took  them  in  triumph  to  the  pre- 
sent harbor  of  Pernambuco.  Afier  refitting,  he  came  to  Bahia  de 
Todos  OS  Santos,  where  was  the  little  settlement  of  the  shipwrecked 
Diogo  Alvares  Correa,  (Caramuru,)  whose  romantic  history  is  nar- 
rated in  another  portion  of  this  work.  After  some  delay,  he  again 
sailed  southward,  and,  on  the  30th  of  April,  1531,  entered  the  bay 
which  had  ah'eady  been  named  Santa  Luzia  and  Eio  de  Janeiro. 
By  reflecting  for  a  moment  upon  the  time  (December  3,  1530)  when 
Martin  Alfonso  de  Souza  departed  from  Lisbon,  and  the  various 
events  and  delays  of  the  voyage,  we  can  easily  perceive  that  it 
would  be  an  impossibility  to  sail  more  than  five  thousand  miles, 
(and  his  were  not  modern  clipjDor-ships,)  fight  and  ca])ture  three 
vessels,  refresh  successively  at  two  difi:erent  ports,  and  then 
reach  the  Bay  of  Kio  de  Janeiro  on  the  1st  of  January,  1531.'^* 
Aside  from  this,  we  have  the  direct  and  simj^le  statement  of  Pero 


Past  Glory  of  Portugal.  61 

Lopes  de  Souza,  brother  to  the  commander,  which  not  only  settles 
the  date  of  their  arrival,  but  the  fact  that  the  bay  or  supposed 
river  was  previously  known  as  Rio  de  Janeiro, — viz. :  "  Saturday, 
30th  of  April,  at  four  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  were  in  tlic  mouth 
of  Rio  de  Janeiro."'** 

Martin  Aftbnso  de  Souza  formed  no  settlement  on  the  shores  of 
the  magniticent  bay  wliich  he  had  entered,  but  contented  himself 
with  remaining  there  for  a  few  months,  where  he  constructed  three 
brigantines,  and  then  sailed  to  the  coast  of  the  present  province 
of  Silo  Paulo.  At  a  place  which  possessed  no  great  natural  ad- 
vantages he  commenced  the  first  European  colony  (Vespucius's 
handful  of  men  and  Cararauru's  wigwams  cannot  bo  called  the 
earliest  settlements)  in  Brazil,  and  named  it  >S^^.  Vincent.  St.  Vin- 
cent no  longer  exists,  unless  its  existence  may  be  predicated  in  the 
few  miserable  houses  and  the  broken  fountain  which  mark  the 
spot  where  was  laid  the  first  stone  of  the  proudest  colony  of  Por- 
tugal. On  the  margin  of  that  spacious  and  protected  harbor  which 
De  Souza  rejected  for  an  exposed  arm  of  the  sea,  has  sprung  up  the 
first  commercial  cit}^  of  South  America,  and  the  third  in  the  New 
World. 

It  Avill  not  be  uninstructive  to  glance  at  the  position,  at  that 
time,  of  the  kingdom  which  sent  forth  Diaz,  Vasco  da  Gama, 
Cabral,  Coelho,  Christbpher  Jacques,  Vespucius,  and  De  Souza, 
upon  new  and  hazardous  voyages  of  discovery.  The  territor}'-  of 
European  Portugal  was  then  no  greater  than  at  present  j  but  her 
ambitious  monarchs  and  her  daring  navigators  had  pushed  their 
conquests  and  discoveries  not  only  along  the  whole  western  and 
eastern  coasts  of  Africa,  but  to  "  the  farthest  Ind."  Bartholomew 
Diaz  beheld  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  six  years  before  Columbus 
discovered  America;  and  Vasco  da  Gama  doubled  the  same  cape 
ere  the  great  Genoese  landed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Orinoco.  Poi"- 
tugal  had  flourishing  colonies  in  Angola,  Loango,  and  Congo,  before 
Cortez  had  burned  his  ships  in  the  Mexican  Gulf  Before  the 
Honorable  East  India  Company  was  dreamed  of,  Portuguese  vice- 
roys and  Portuguese  commercial  enterprises  swayed  it  over  mil- 
lions in  Hindostan  and  Ceylon.  They  trafficked  with  the  distant 
Pcnians  and  the  little-known  Burmese,  on  the  baiiks  of  the  Irra- 
waddy,  three  hundred  years  before  Judson  proclaimed,  near  the 


52  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

same  river,  the  gospel  of  the  blessed  Saviour.  Centuries  before  the 
English  possessed  Hong-Kong  or  the  Americans  had  opened  Japan 
b}^  commercial  treaties,  Portugal  owned  Macao,  held  intercourse 
with  the  curious  Chinese,  traded  with  the  Japanese,  and,  through 
her  priests,  led  more  than  half  a  million  of  those  almond-eyed 
islanders  to  embrace  the  doctrines  of  Rome.  Of  her  immense 
acquisitions  by  conquest  and  discovery,  that  of  Brazil  was  not  to 
be  the  least  in  its  importance*  and  future  destiny.  "When  wo  look 
at  what  Portugal  loas  and  what  she  is,  we  can  only  exclaim,  "How 
are  the  mightj^  fiillen  !"  Portugal  has  been  weighed  in  the  balance 
and  found  wanting.  Shorn  of  all  her  possessions  in  the  East  except 
a  territory  (comprising  Goa  and  a  few  unimportant  islands)  not  so 
large  as  the  State  of  South  Carolina,  her  commerce  is  now  scarcely 
known  in  the  Indian  Seas.  Her  dominion  west  of  Asia  is  limited 
to  her  own  small  European  kingdom,  to  languishing  colonies  in 
Africa,  and  to  a  fcAV  islands  in  the  Atlantic.  She  owns  not  an  inch 
of  territory  in  the  Western  World,  where  once  she  had  a  quarter 
of  the  continent.  She  had  not  the  conservative  salt  of  a  pure  Chris- 
tianity to  preserve  her  moralit}''  and  her  greatness.  Like  Spain, 
she  became  at  once  the  patron  and  the  protectress  of  the  Inquisi- 
tion; and,  though  the  Portuguese  are  far  more  tolerant  than  the 
Spaniards,  yet  the  Government  of  Portugal  held  on  to  that  cursed 
engine  of  Eoman  intolerance  until  1821.  The  contrast  between 
Holland  and  Portugal  forces  itself  upon  the  consideration  of  all. 
They  are  both  nearly  of  the  same  European  area  and  population, 
both  were  great  maritime  nations  in  the  sixteenth  century,  and 
both  made  extensive  conquests  in  the  East.  But,  Avhile  neighbor- 
ing states  have  created  a  mercantile  marine  since  the  era  refoi-red 
to,  Holland,  in  this  respect,  still  ranks  as  the  third  power  in 
Europe  and  the  fourth  in  the  world,  and  her  internal  pi'osperity 
has  not  declined.  Her  credit  has  always  maintained  the  highest 
place  among  the  nations  of  the  earth,  while  Portugal  has  been 
more  than  once  on  the  verge  of  bankruptcy.  Holland  to-day 
governs  twenty-two  millions  of  people,  wlio  are  prosperous  and 
advancing,  whether  in  the  Eastern  or  the  Western  hemisphere. 
Portugal,  in  all  her  dominions,  rules  less  than  one-third  of  that 
number.  The  former  is  distinguished  for  tolerance  and  intelli- 
gence; the  latter,  under  the  blighting  shadow  of  the  Papacy,  has, 


Col'igny's  Huguenot  Colony.  53 

even  in  the  latter  luilf  of  the  nineteenth  ccntniy,  manifested  nar- 
rowness and  bigotry,'^'  and  her  people,  as  a  whole,  have  been  the 
most  ignorant  of  Europe.  The  last  fcw^  years  have,  however,  wo 
trust,  been  the  precursor  of  a  better  era  for  Portugal.  Her  young 
and  enlightened  monarch  has  come  to  the  throne  with  enlarged 
viows,  and  it  is  fondl}^  hoped  that  his  subjects  will  be  elevated,  and 
that  Portugal  will  assume  a  position  more  in  accordance  with  the 
liistorieal  traditions  of  those  days  when  her  kings  were  energetic, 
and  when  her  navigators  laid  at  her  feet  the  treasures  of  the 
world. 

Eeturning  from  this  digression,  let  us  again  watch  the  progress 
of  events  in  the  new  acquisitions  of  Portugal  in  the  Western  World. 

Other  eyes  than  those  of  Spanish  navigators  were  looking  toward 
Brazil,  and  to  that  ver}^  portion  of  it  which  had  been  slighted  by 
Martin  Alfonso  de  Souza.  Among  the  adventurers  from  France 
was  Nicholas  Durand  do  Villegagnon,  a  Knight  of  Malta,  a  man 
of  considerable  abilities,  and  of  some  distinction  in  the  French 
service.  He  had  even  been  appointed  to  the  gallant  post  of  com- 
mander of  the  vessel  which  bore  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  from  France 
to  her  own  realms.  Yiliegagnon  aspii'ed  to  the  honor  of  establish- 
ing a  colony  in  the  New  World,  and  Eio  de  Janeiro  was  the  chosen 
spot  for  his  experiment.  He  had  the  address,  in  the  outset,  to 
secure  the  patronage  of  the  great  and  good  Admiral  Coligny, 
whose  persevering  attempt  to  plant  the  Eeformcd  religion  in 
both  North  and  South  America  was  a  leading  feature  in  his  life 
up  to  the  time  when  St.  Bartholomew's  Eve  Avas  written  in 
characters  of  blood. 

Villegagnon  proposed  to  found  an  asylum  for  the  persecuted 
Huguenots.  Admiral  Coligny's  intiuenco  secured  to  him  a  respect- 
able number  of  colonists.  The  French  court  was  disposed  to  view 
with  no  small  satisfaction  the  plan  of  founding  a  colony,  after  the 
example  of  the  Portuguese  and  Spaniards. 

It  was  in  the  year  1555  that  Henry  II.,  the  reigning  king,  fur- 
nished three  small  vessels,  of  which  Villegagnon  took  the  com- 
mand and  sailed  from  Havre  de  Grace.  A  gale  of  wind  occurred 
while  they  were  j^et  on  the  coast,  and  obliged  them  to  put  into 
Dieppe,  which  they  accomplished  with  considerable  difficulty.  By 
this  time  many  of  the  artificers,  soldiers,  and  noble  adventurers 


54  ■  '  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

had  become  sick  of  the  sea,  and  abandoned  the  expedition  so  soon 
as  they  reached  the  shore. 

After  a  long  and  perilous  voyage,  Villegagnon  entered  the  Bay 
of  Nithcrohy,  and  commenced  fortifying  a  small  island  near  the 
entrance,  now  denominated  Lage,  and  occupied  by  a  fort.  His 
fortress,  however,  being  of  wood,  could  not  resist  the  action  of  the 
water  at  flood-tide,  and  he  was  obliged  to  remove  farther  upward, 
to  the  island  now  called  Villegagnon,  where  he  built  a  fort,  at  first 
named  in  honor  of  his  patron,  Coligny.  This  expedition  was  well 
planned,  and  the  place  for  a  colony  fitly  chosen.  The  native  tribes 
were  hostile  to  the  Portuguese,  but  had  long  traded  amicably  with 
the  French.  Some  hundreds  of  them  assembled  on  the  shore  at 
the  arrival  of  the  vessels,  kindled  bonfires  in  token  of  their  joy,  and 
offered  every  thing  they  jiossessed  to  these  allies  who  had  come  to 
defend  them  against  the  Portuguese.  Such  a  reception  inspired 
the  French  with  the  idea  that  the  continent  was  already  their  own, 
and  they  denominated  it  La  France  Antarctique. 

It  was  upon  this  island  that  they  erected  their  rude  place  of 
worship,  and  here  these  French  Puritans  off'ered  their  prayers  and 
sang  their  hymns  of  praise  nearly  threescore  years  and  ten  before 
a  Pilgrim  placed  his  foot  on  Plymouth  Kock,  and  more  than  half  a 
centuiy  before  the  Book  of  Common  Prayer  was  borne  to  the 
banks  of  the  James  Eiver. 

On  the  return  of  the  vessels  to  Europe  for  a  new  supply  of  colo- 
nists, considerable  zeal  was  awakened  for  the  establishment  of  the 
Reformed  religion  in  these  remote  parts.  The  Church  of  Geneva 
became  interested  in  the  object,  and  sent  two  ministers  and  four- 
teen students,  who  determined  to  brave  all  the  hardships  of  an 
unknown  climate  and  of  a  new  mode  of  life  in  the  cause.  It  is 
interesting  to  reflect  that  when  the  Reformation  was  j-et  in  its 
infanc}',  the  subject  of  propagating  the  gospel  in  distant  parts 
of  the  world  was  one  that  engaged  the  hearts  of  Christians  in  the 
city  of  Geneva  while  Calvin,  Farel,  and  Theodore  de  Beza  were 
Btill  living.  It  would  be  difficult  to  find  an  earlier  instance  of 
Protestant  missionary  eff'ort. 

As  the  situation  of  the  Huguenots  in  France  was  any  thing  but 
happy,  the  combined  motive  of  seeking  deliverance  from  oppression 
and  the   advancement  of  their  faith   appears   to  have  prevailed 


TriE  Trrachrry  of  Villegagnon'.  55 

extensively,  and  iiuliiccd  many  to  embark.  "When  we  look  at  the 
incipient  movements  of  this  enterprise,  Avithout  the  knowledge 
of  its  conclusion,  there  seems  as  mucli  reason  to  hope  that  the 
principles  of  the  Keformation  would  have  taken  root  here,  as  they 
did  afterward  in  North  Amei-ica,  where  they  have  produced  a 
harvest  of  such  wonderful  results. 

But  misfortunes  seemed  to  attend  every  step  of  the  enterprise. 
At  Harfleur,  the  Papist  populace  rose  against  the  colonists,  and 
the  latter,  after  losing  one  of  their  best  officers  in  the  conflict, 
were  obliged  to  seek  safety  in  retreat.  They  had  a  tedious  voyage, 
suffering  at  one  time  from  a  violent  storm;  and,  having  neared 
the  Brazilian  coast,  had  a  slight  encounter  with  the  Portuguese. 
However,  they  were  received  by  Villegagnon  with  apparent  cor- 
diality, and  effectual  operations  began  to  be  undertaken  for  their 
establishment.  But  it  was  not  long  before  certain  untoward  circum- 
stances occurred  which  developed  the  real  and  villanous  character 
of  their  leader. 

Having  gained  over  to  his  complete  influence  a  certain  number 
who  cared  not  for  spiritual  piety,  Villegagnon,  under  pretence 
of  changing  his  religion  and  returning  to  the  true  faith,  com- 
menced a  series  of  persecutions.  Those  Avho  had  come  to  Antarctic 
France 'to  enjoy  libert}^  of  conscience  found  their  condition  worse 
than  befoi'C.  They  were  subjected  to  abusive  treatment  and  great 
hardships.  This  unnatural  defection  consummated  the  premature 
ruin  of  the  colony.  The  newly-arrived  colonists  demanded  leave 
to  return,  which  was  granted,  but  in  a  vessel  so  badly  furnished 
that  some  refused  to  embark,  and  the  majority,  who  persisted, 
endured  the  utmost  misery  of  famine.  Villegagnon  had  given 
them  a  box  of  letters,  wrapped  in  sere-cloth,  as  was  the  custom. 
Among  them  was  one  directed  to  the  chief  magistrate  of  the  port 
where  they  might  chance  to  arrive,  in  which  this  worthy  friend 
of  the  Guises  denounced  the  men  whom  he  had  invited  out  to 
Brazil  to  enjoy  the  peaceable  exercise  of  the  Reformed  religion^  as 
heretics  worthy  of  the  stake.  The  magistrates  of  Hennebonne, 
where  they  landed,  happened  to  favor  the  Reformation,  and  thus 
the  malignity  of  Villegagnon  was  frustrated,  and  his  treacherj'- 
exposed.  Of  those  who  had  feared  to  trust  themselves  to  a  vessel 
so  badly  stored,  and  so  unfit  for  the  voyage,  three  were  put  to 


56  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

death  by  this  persecutor.  Others  of  the  H\;guenots  fled  from  him 
to  the  Portuguese,  where  they  were  compelled  to  apostatize,  and 
to  profess  a  religion  which  they  abhorred. 

The  homeward-bound  colonists  were  reduced  to  the  greatest 
extremity,  and,  from  want  of  food,  they  not  only  devoured  all  the 
leather, — even  to  the  covering  of  their  trunks, — but  in  their  despair 
they  attempted  to  chew  the  hard,  dry  brazil-wood  which  hap- 
pened to  be  in  the  vessel.  Several  died  of  hunger ;  and  they  had 
begun  to  form  the  resolution  of  devouring  each  other,  when  land 
appeared  in  view.  They  arrived  just  in  time  to  undeceive  a  body  of 
Flemish  adventurers  ready  to  embark  for  Brazil,  and  also  about  ten 
thousand  Frenchmen,  who  would  have  emigrated  if  the  object  of 
Coligny  in  founding  his  colony  had  not  thus  been  wickedly  betrayed. 

Though  the  Portuguese  w^ero  so  jealous  of  the  Brazilian  trade 
that  they  treated  all  interlopers  as  pirates,  yet,  by  some  oversight, 
they  permitted  this  French  colony  to  remain  four  years  unmolested; 
and,  had  it  not  been  for  the  ti'cachery  of  Villegagnon  to  his  own 
pai'ty,  Eio  de  Janeiro  would  probably  have  been,  at  this  day,  the 
capital  of  a  French  colony  or  of  an  independent  State  in  which  the 
Huguenot  element  would  have  been  predominant. 

The  Jesuits  were  well  aware  of  this  danger,  and  Nobrega,  their 
chief  and  provincial,  at  length  succeeded  in  rousing  the  court  of 
Lisbon.  A  messenger  was  commanded  to  discover  the  state  of  the 
French  fortifications.  On  the  ground  of  his  report,  orders  were 
despatched  to  Mem  de  Sa  Barreto,  governor  of  the  colony,  and 
resident  at  San  Salvador,  to  attack  and  expel  the  intruders  who 
remained.  Having  fitted  out  two  vessels-of-war  and  several  mer- 
chantmen, the  governor,  taking  the  command  in  person,  embarked, 
accompanied  by  Nobrega  as  his  prime  counsellor.  They  appeared 
off  the  bar  at  Eio  early  in  1560,  with  the  intention  of  surprising 
the  island  at  the  dead  of  night.  Being  espied  by  the  sentinels, 
their  plan  was  foiled.  The  French  immediately  made  ready  for 
defence,  forsook  their  ships,  and,  with  eight  hundred  native  archers, 
retired  to  their  forts. 

"With  reinforcements  from  St.  Yincente,  Mem  de  Sa  won  the  land- 
ing-place, and,  routing  the  French  from  their  most  important  holds, 
so  intimidated  them  that,  under  cover  of  the  night,  they  fled,  some 
to  their  ships  and  some  to  the  mainland. 


Defeat  of  the  French.  57 

The  Portuguese,  not  being  strong  enough  to  keep  the  position 
the}'  had  taken,  demolished  the  works,  and  carried  off  the  artillery 
and  stores  which  the}'  found.  A  short  time  after  this,  new  wars, 
made  bj^  the  native  tribes,  bi'okc  out  against  them,  and  were  prose- 
cuted at  different  points  with  great  ferocity  for  several  years.  In 
the  mean  time,  the  French  recovered  strength  and  influence.  Pre- 
parations wei'o  again  made  to  extirpate  them.  A  party  of  Portu- 
guese and  friendly  Indians,  under  the  command  of  a  Jesuit  appointed 
by  Nobrega,  landed  near  the  base  of  the  Sugar-Loaf,  and,  taking  a 
position  now  known  as  Praia  Vermelha,  maintained  a  series  of 
indecisive  skirmishes  with  their  enemies  for  more  than  a  year. 
Occasionally,  when  successful,  they  would  sing  in  triumphant  hope 
a  verse  from  the  Scriptures,  saying,  "  The  bows  of  the  mighty  are 
broken,"  &c.  Well  might  they  call  the  bows  of  the  Tamoyos 
mighty;  for  an  arrow  sent  by  one  of  them  would  fasten  a  shield  to 
the  arm  that  held  it,  and  sometimes  would  pass  through  the  body, 
and  continue  its  way  with  such  force  as  to  pierce  a  tree  and  hang 
quivering  in  the  trunk. 

Nobrega  at  length  came  to  the  camp,  and  at  his  summons  Mem 
de  Sa  again  appeared  with  all  the  succors  he  could  raise  at  San 
Salvador.  All  was  made  ready,  and  the  attack  deferred  forty-eight 
hours,  in  order  to  take  place  on  St.  Sebastian's  Day.  The  auspicious 
morning  came, — that  of  January  20,  1567.  The  stronghold  of  the 
French  was  stormed.     Not  one  of  the  Tamoyos  escaped. 

South ey  most  justly  remarks,  never  was  a  war  in  which  so  little 
exertion  had  been  made,  and  so  little  force  employed  on  both  sides, 
attended  by  consequences  so  important.  The  French  court  was  too 
busy  in  burning  and  massacring  Huguenots  to  think  of  Brazil,  and 
Coligny,  after  his  generous  plans  had  been  ruined  by  the  villanous 
treachery  of  Villegagnon,  no  longer  regarded  the  colony :  the  day 
for  emigration  from  his  country  was  over,  and  they  who  should 
have  colonized  Rio  de  Janeiro  were  bearing  arms  against  a  bloody 
and  implacable  enemy,  in  defence  of  every  thing  dear  to  man. 
Portugal  was  almost  as  inattentive  to  Brazil;  so  that,  few  and 
unaided  as  were  the  Antarctic  French,  had  Mem  de  Sa  been  less 
earnest  in  his  duty,  or  Nobrega  less  able  and  less  indefatigable  in 
his  opposition,  the  former  would  have  retained  their  place,  and 
perhaps  the  entire  country  have  this  day  been  French. 


58  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Immediately  after  his  victory,  the  govcrnoi,  conformable  to  his 
instructions,  traced  out  a  new  city,  which  he  named  San  Sebastian, 
in  honor  of  the  saint  under  whose  jiatronage  the  field  was  won,  and 
also  of  the  king  of  the  mother-country.  The  name  of  San  Sebas- 
tian has  been  supplanted  by  that  of  Eio  de  Janeiro. 

In  connection  with  the  event  just  narrated,  there  remains  on 
record  a  melancholy  proof  of  the  cruelty  and  intolerance  of  the 
victors.  According  to  the  annals  of  the  Jesuits,  Mem  de  Sa  stained 
the  foundations  of  the  city  Avith  innocent  blood.  "Among  the 
Huguenots  who  had  been  compelled  to  fly  from  Villegagnon's  per- 
secution was  one  John  Boles,  a  man  of  considerable  learning,  being 
well  versed  both  in  Greek  and  Hebrew.  Luiz  de  Gram  caused  him 
to  be  apprehended,  with  three  of  his  comrades,  one  of  whom  feigned 
to  become  a  Eoman  Catholic;  the  others  were  cast  into  prison;  and 
there  Boles  had  remained  eight  years,  when  he  was  sent  for  to  be 
mart3"red  at  Eio  de  Janeiro,  for  the  sake  of  terrifying  his  countrj'- 
men,  if  any  should  be  lurking  in  those  parts." 

The  Jesuits  are  the  only  historians  of  this  matter.  They  pre- 
tend that  Boles  apostatized,  having  been  convinced  of  his  errors 
by  Anchieta,  a  priest  greatly  celebrated  in  the  annals  of  Brazil. 
But,  by  their  own  story,  it  is  not  very  probable  that  a  man  who 
for  eight  long  years  had  steadfastly  refused  to  renounce  the  religion 
of  his  conviction  would  now  yield.  Boles  doubtless  proved  a  stub- 
born unbending  Protestant,  and  for  this  suffered  a  cruel  death. 
And,  notwithstanding  the  statement  that  he  was  to  be  slain  as  an 
example  to  his  countr3'men,  "  if  an}^  should  be  found  lurking  in 
those  parts,"  it  was  not  the  custom  of  Eome  to  put  to  death  those 
who  renounced  their  errors  and  came  into  her  protecting  fold. 

When  Boles  was  brought  out  to  the  place  of  execution,  and  the 
executioner  bungled  in  his  bloody  office,  "Anchieta  hastily  inter- 
fered, and  instructed  him  how  to  despatch  a  heretic  as  speedily  as 
possible, — fearing,  it  is  said,  lest  he  should  become  impatient,  being 
an  obstinate  man,  and  newly  reclaimed,  and  that  thus  his  soul 
would  be  lost.  The  priest  who  in  any  way  accelerates  the  execu- 
tion of  death  is  thereby  suspended  from  liis  office ;  but  the  biogra- 
pher of  Anchieta  enumerates  this  as  one  of  the  virtuous  actions  of 
his  life." 

Though  Eio  de  Janeiro  was  thus  founded  in  blood,  there  is  no 


Reflections.  59 

Roman  Catholic  country  in  the  world  freer  from  bigotfy  and  in- 
tolcrence  than  the  Empire  of  Brazil. 

Thus  failed  the  establishment  of  Coligny's  colony,  upon  which 
the  hopes  of  Protestant  Europe  had  for  a  short  time  been  concen- 
trated; and  Rio  de  Janeiro  will  ever  be  memorable  as  the  first  spot 
in  the  Western  hemisphere  where  the  banner  of  the  Reformed 
religion  was  unfurled.  It  is  true  that  the  attempt  was  made  upon 
territory  which  had  been  appropriated  by  Portugal;  still,  a  question 
might  arise  as  to  the  right  of  priority  in  the  discovery  of  this  por- 
tion of  Brazil,  for  it  is  certain  that  the  Spaniard,  De  Solis,  and  also 
Majellan,  Ruy  Faleii'o,  and  Diogo  Garcia,  Portuguese  navigators  in 
the  service  of  Spain,  entered  the  Bay  of  Nitherohy  long  before 
Martin  Affonso  de  Souza.  In  whatever  way  this  may  bo  settled, 
the  fact  of  the  failure  of  this  Huguenot  effort  is  full  of  food  for 
reflection;  and  we  can  full}'  sympathize  with  the  remarks  of  the 
author  of  "Brazil  and  La  Plata,"  in  regard  to  the  treachery  of 
Villegagnon,  and  the  consequent  defeat  of  the  aims  of  the  first 
French  colonists: — 

"With  the  remembrance  of  this  fiiilure  in  establishing  the  Re- 
formed religion  here,  and  of  the  direct  cause  which  led  to  it,  I 
often  find  myself  speculating  as  to  the  possible  and  probable  results 
which  would  have  followed  the  successful  establishment  of  Protest- 
antism during  the  three  hundred  years  that  have  since  intervened. 
With  the  wealth,  and  power,  and  increasing  prosperity  of  the  United 
States  before  us,  as  the  fruits  at  the  end  of  two  hundred  years' 
colonization  of  a  few  feeble  bands  of  Protestants  on  the  compara- 
tively bleak  and  bain-en  shore  of  the  Northern  continent,  there  is 
no  presumption  in  the  belief  that  had  a  people  of  similar  faith, 
similar  morals,  similar  habits  of  industry  and  enterprise,  gained 
an  abiding  footing  in  so  genial  a  climate  and  on  a  soil  so  exuberant, 
long  ago  the  still  unexplored  and  impenetrable  wilderness  of  the 
interior  would  have  bloomed  and  blossomed  in  civilization  as  tho 
rose,  and  Brazil  from  the  sea-coast  to  the  Andes  would  have  become 
one  of  the  gardens  of  the  world.  But  the  o-crm  which  miccht  have 
led  to  this  was  crushed  by  the  bad  faith  and  malice  of  Villegagnon; 
and,  as  I  look  on  the  spot  which  bears  his  name,  and,  in  the  eyes  of 
a  Protestant  at  least,  perpetuates  his  reproach,  the  two  or  three 
solitary  palms  which  lift  their  tufted  heads  above  the  embattled 


60 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


walls^  and  furnish  the  only  evidence  of  vegetation  on  the  island, 
seem,  instead  of  plumed  warriors  in  the  midst  of  their  defences, 
like  sentinels  of  grief  mourning  the  blighted  hopes  of  the  long 
past." 


FORTRESS    AND     ISLAND     OF    VILLEGAGNON. 

But  -WO  should  not  look  too  "mournfully  into  the  past;"  for 
though,  in  the  mysterious  dealings  of  Providence  no  Protestant 
nation,  with  its  attendant  vigor  and  progress,  sways  it  over  that 
fertile  and  salubrious  land,  may  we  not  to  a  certain  extent  legiti- 
mately consider  the  tolerant  and  fit  Constitution  of  the  Empire, 
and  its  good  government,  the  general  material  prosperit}^,  and  the 
advancement  of  the  Brazilians  in  every  point  of  view  far  beyond 
all  other  South  American  nations,  as  an  answer  to  the  faithful 
prayers  with  which  those  pious  Huguenots  baptized  Brazil  more 
than  three  centuries  ago? 


Note  for  1S6G. — The  present  Emperor  has  certainly  shown  himself  a  friend 
of  toleration.  He  has  aided  in  the  construction  of  Protestant  chapels  for 
colonists;  the  Government  promptly  suppressed  three  riots  attempted  against 
Brazilian  Protestants,  (at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  at  Bahia,  and  at  Praia  Grande;)  and 
other  acts  might  be  cited  to  demonstrate  that  we  have  true  cause  for  gratitude 
at  the  position  of  religious  toleration  in  Brazil.  But  Brazilian  legislation  should 
go  one  step  further,  and  admit  to  the  Parliament  all  fit  men,  of  whatever 
religious  denomination.     Then  Brazil  will  be  abreast  with  the  nineteenth  century 


CHAPTER  IV. 

EARLY     STATE     OF     RIO  —  ATTACKS     OF     THE     FRENCH IMPROVEMENTS     UNDER     THE 

VICEROYS ARRIVAL    OF    THE     ROYAL    FAMILY    OF    PORTUGAL RAPID     POLITICAL 

CHANGES  —  DEPARTURE    OF     DOM     JOHN    VI. THE     VICEROYALTY    IN    THE     HANDS 

OF     DOM    PEDRO BRAZILIANS    DISSATISFIED    WITH     THE     MOTHER-COUNTRY DE- 
CLARATION   OF    INDEPENDENCE ACCLAMATION    OF    DOM    PEDRO    AS    EMPEROR. 

For  one  hundred  and  forty  years  after  its  foundation,  the  city 
of  San  Sebastian  enjoyed  a  state  of  tranquil  prosperity.  This 
quietness  was  in  happy  contrast  with  the  turbulent  spirit  of  the 
age,  and  especiall}^  with  the  condition  of  the  principal  towns  and 
colonies  of  Brazil;  nearly  all  of  which,  during  the  period  referred 
to,  had  been  attacked  by  either  the  English,  the  Dutch,  or  the 
French.  In  this  interval  the  population  and  commerce  of  the  place 
greatly  increased. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  eighteenth  century  the  principal 
gold-mines  of  the  interior  were  discovered  by  the  Paulistas,  the 
inhabitants  of  San  Paulo.  These  gave  the  name  of  Minas  Geraes 
(^General  Mines)  to  a  large  inland  province,  which  became  then, 
as  it  still  remains,  tributary  to  the  port  of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  Gold- 
digging  was  found  to  produce  here  effects  similar  to  those  which 
resulted  from  it  in  the  Spanish  countries.  Agriculture  was  nearly 
abandoned,  the  price  of  slaves — who  had  been  early  introduced — 
became  enormous,  and  the  general  prosperity  of  the  country  retro- 
graded; while  every  one  who  could  rushed  to  the  mines,  in  hope 
of  speedily  enriching  himself  We  even  find  that  the  curious  and 
abnormal  condition  of  California  in  1848  had  its  counterpart  three 
centuries  ago  in  Brazil. 

Even  the  Governor  of  Rio,  forgetful  of  his  official  character  and 

obligations,  went  to  Minas  Geraes  and  engaged  with  avidity  in  the 

search  for  treasure.     The  fame  of  these  golden  discoveries  sounded 

61 


62  Brazil  and  hie  Brazilians. 

abroad,  and  awakened  the  ciq:)idity  of  the  French,  who,  in  1710, 
sent  a  squadron,  commanded  by  M.  Du  Clere,  with  the  intent  of 
capturing  Rio.  Tlie  wliole  expedition  was  ingloriously  defeated 
by  the  Portuguese,  under  Francisco  de  Castro,  Governor  of  Eio 
de  Janeiro.  This  officer  possessed  no  military  ability,  but  blun- 
dered into  a  victory  over  the  French,  and  permitted  horrid 
cruelties  to  be  practised  upon  the  prisoners.  France  was  not 
slow  to  resent  the  inhumanity  with  which  her  men  had  been 
treated. 

M.  Duguay  Trouin,  one  of  the  ablest  naval  officers  of  the  times, 
sought  permission  to  revenge  his  countrymen  and  to  plunder  Hio 
de  Janeiro.  Individuals  were  found  ready  to  incur  the  expenses 
of  the  outfit,  in  prospect  of  the  speculation.  The  project  was 
a2:)in'oved  by  Government,  and  an  immense  naval  force  was  placed 
at  Trouiu's  disposal. 

This  expedition  was  eminently  successful.  The  tactics  of  the 
imbecile  Castro  did  not  succeed:  the  city  Avas  stormed,  taken,  and 
afterward  ransomed  for  a  heavy  sum.  It  was  during  the  bombard- 
ment that  the  convent  of  San  Bento  was  battered  by  the  balls,  the 
marks  of  which  are  still  visible. 

The  plunder  and  the  ransom  were  so  great,  that,  notwithstand- 
ing, on  the  return-voyage  of  the  French,  a  number  of  their  vessels 
went  down  Avith  twelve  hundred  men  and  the  most  valuable  part 
of  the  booty,  there  remained  to  the  adventurers  a  j^rofit  of  ninety- 
two  per  cent,  upon  the  capital  they  had  risked  in  the  outfit. 

From  the  time  that  Daguay  Trouin's  squadron  weighed  anchor 
on  their  homeward  voyage,  no  hostile  fleet  has  ever  entered  the 
harbor  of  Eio  de  Janeiro.  Great  changes,  however,  have  taken 
place  in  the  condition  of  that  citj'. 

In  1763  it  superseded  Bahia  as  the  seat  of  government,  and 
became  the  residence  of  the  viceroys  of  Portugal. 

The  more  substantial  improvements  of  the  capital  were  under- 
taken at  this  period.  The  marshes,  which  covered  a  considerable 
portion  of  the  spot  where  the  town  now  stands,  were  drained  and 
diked.  The  streets  were  paved  and  lighted.  Cargoes  of  African 
slaves,  who  had  hitherto  been  exposed  in  the  streets  for  sale, 
exhibiting  scenes  of  disgust  and  horror,  and  also  exposing  the 
inhabitants   to   the  worst  of  diseases,  were   now   ordered   to  be 


Improvements  under  the  Viceroys. 


GO 


removed   to    the   Vallongo,  which  was   designated   as   a  general 
market  for  these  unhappy  beings. 

Fountains  of  running  water  were  also  multiplied.  The  great 
aqueduct  which  spans  the  llua  dos  Arcos  was  then  constructed; 
and  in  these  and  various  other  waj's,  the  health,  comfort,  and 
prosperity  of  the  city  were  promoted  under  the  successive  adminis- 
trations of  the  Count  da  Cunha,  the  Marquis  of  Lavradio,  and  Luiz 
de  Yaseoncellos 


The  system  of  government  maintained  during  these  periods 
throughout  Brazil  was  absolute  in  the  extreme,  and  by  no  means 
calculated  to  develop  the  great  resources  of  the  countrj^.  j^ever- 
theless,  it  was  anticipated  by  the  more  enlightened  statesmen  of 
Portugal  that  the  colony  would  some  day  eclipse  the  glory  of 
the  mothei'-countr}^  None,  however,  could  foresee  the  proximity 
of  those  events  which  were  about  to  drive  the  royal  family  (the 
house  of  Bragauza)  to  seek  an  asylum  in  the  New  World,  and  to 


64  Brazil  a.\d  the  Brazilians. 

establish  their  court  at  Kio  de  Janeiro.  The  close  of  the  eighteenth 
century  witnessed  their  development. 

The  French  Revolution  and  the  leading  spirit  which  was  raised 
up  by  it  involved  the  slumbering  kingdom  of  Portugal  in  the 
troubles  of  the  Continent.  Napoleon  determined  that  the  court 
of  Lisbon  should  declare  itself  against  its  ancient  ally,  England, 
and  assent  to  the  Continental  sj-stem  adopted  b}'  the  Imperial  ruler 
of  France.  The  Prince-Regent,  Dom  John  VI.,  promised,  but  hesi- 
tated, delayed,  and  finally,  too  late,  declared  war  against  England. 
The  vacillation  of  the  Prince-Regent  hastened  events  to  a  crisis. 
The  English  fleet,  under  Sir  Sidney  Smith,  eetablished  a  most 
rigorous  blockade  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tagus,  and  the  British 
ambassador  left  no  other  alternative  to  Dom  John  VI.  than  to 
surrender  to  England  the  Portuguese  fleet,  or  to  avail  himself 
of  the  British  squadron  for  the  protection  and  transportation  of 
the  royal  family  to  Brazil.  The  moment  was  critical :  the  army 
of  Napoleon  had  penetrated  the  mountains  of  Beira ;  only  an 
immediate  departure  would  save  the  monarchy.  No  resource  re- 
mained to  the  Prince-Regent  but  to  choose  between  a  tottering 
throne  in  Europe  and  a  vast  empire  in  America.  His  indecisions 
were  at  an  end.  By  a  royal  decree  he  announced  his  intention  to 
retire  to  Rio  de  Janeiro  until  the  conclusion  of  a  general  peace. 
The  archives,  the  treasures,  and  the  most  precious  efl'ects  of  th'e 
crown,  were  transferred  to  the  Portuguese  and  English  fleets;  and, 
on  the  29th  of  November,  1807,  accompanied  b}^  his  family  and  a 
multitude  of  faithful  followers,  the  Prince-Regent  took  his  de- 
parture amid  the  combined  salvos  of  the  cannon  of  Great  Britain 
and  of  Portugal.  That  verj^  da}^  Marshal  Junot  thundered  upon  the 
heights  of  Lisbon,  and  the  next  morning  took  possession  of  the 
city.  Early  in  January,  1808,  the  news  of  these  surprising  events 
reached  Rio  de  Janeiro,  and  excited  the  most  lively  interest. 

What  the  Brazilians  had  dreamed  of  onlj^  as  a  remote  possible 
event  was  now  suddenly  to  be  realized.  The  royal  family  might 
be  expected  to  arrive  any  day,  and  preparations  for  their  reception 
occupied  the  attention  of  all.  The  Viceroy's  palace  was  imme- 
diately prepared,  and  all  the  public  offices  in  the  Palace  Square 
were  vacated  to  accommodate  the  royal  suite.  These  not  being 
deemed  sufficient,  proprietors  of  private  houses  in  the  neighborhood 


Arrival  of  the  Royal  Family.  65 

were  required  to  leave  their  residences  and  send  in  their  keys  to 
the  Viceroy. 

Such  Avere  the  sentiments  of  the  people  respecting  the  hosj")!- 
tality  duo  to  their  distinguished  guests,  that  nothing  seems  to 
have  been  withheld;  while  many,  even  of  the  less  opulent  families, 
voluntarily  offered  sums  of  money  and  objects  of  value  to  administer 
to  their  comfort. 

Tlie  fleet  having  been  scattered  in  a  storm,  the  jorincipal  vessels 
had  put  into  Bahia,  where  Dom  John  VI.  gave  that  carta  regia 
which  opened  the  ports  of  Brazil  to  the  commerce  of  the  world. 
At  length  all  made  a  safe  entry  into  the  harbor  of  Eio,  on  the  7th 
of  March,  1808.  In  the  manifestations  of  joy  upon  this  occasion, 
'  .10  houses  were  deserted  and  the  hills  were  covered  with  spec- 
tators. Those  who  could  procured  boats  and  sailed  out  to  meet 
the  royal  squadron.  The  prince,  immediately  after  landing,  pro- 
ceeded to  the  cathedral,  and  publicly  offered  thanks  for  his  safe 
arrival.     The  city  was  illuminated  for  nine  successive  evenings. 

In  order  to  form  an  idea  of  the  changes  that  have  occurred  in 
Brazil  during  the  last  lifty  years,  it  must  be  remarked,  that,  up  to 
the  period  now  under  consideration,  all  commerce  and  intercoui'se 
with  foreigners  had  been  rigidly  prohibited  by  the  narrow  policy 
of  Portugal.  Vessels  of  nations  allied  to  the  mother-country  were 
occasionally  permitted  to  come  to  anchor  in  the  ports  of  this  mam- 
moth colony;  but  neither  passengers  nor  crew  were  allowed  to 
land  excepting  under  the  superintendence  of  a  guard  of  soldiers. 
The  policy  pursued  by  China  and  Jaj)an  was  scarcely  more  strict 
and  prohibitory. 

To  prevent  all  possibility  of  trade,  foreign  vessels — whether  they 
had  put  in  to  repair  damages  or  to  jji'ocure  provisions  and  water — 
immediately  on  their  arrival  were  invested  with  a  custom-house 
guard,  and  the  time  for  their  remaining  was  fixed  by  the  authori- 
ties according  to  the  supposed  necessities  of  the  case.  As  a  conse- 
quence of  these  oppressive  regulations,  a  people  who  were  rich  in 
gold  and  diamonds  were  unable  to  procure  the  essential  imjolements 
of  agriculture  and  of  domestic  convenience.  A  Avealthy  planter, 
who  could  display  the  most  rich  and  massive  plate  at  a  festival, 
might  not  be  able  to  furnish  each  of  his  guests  with  a  knife  at 

table.     A  single  tumbler  at  the  same  time  might  be  under  the 

6 


66  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

necessity  of  making  repeated  circuits  through  the  company.  The 
printing-press  had  not  made  its  appearance.  Books  and  learning 
were  equally  rare.  The  people  were  in  every  way  made  to  feel 
their  dependence;  and  the  spirit  of  industry  and  enterprise  were 
alike  unknown. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  Prince-Regent  the  ports  were  thrown  open. 
A  printing-press  was  introduced,  and  a  Eoyal  Gazette  was  pub- 
lished. Academies  of  medicine  and  the  fine  arts  were  established. 
The  Eoyal  Librarj^,  containing  sixtj^  thousand  volumes  of  books, 
was  opened  for  the  free  use  of  the  public.  Foreigners  were  in- 
vited, and  embassies  from  England  and  France  took  up  their 
residence  at  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

From  this  period,  decided  improvements  were  made  in  the  con- 
dition and  aspect  of  the  city.  New  streets  and  squares  were 
added,  and  splendid  residences  were  arranged  on  the  neighboring 
islands  and  hills,  augmenting,  with  the  growth  of  the  town,  the 
picturesque  beauties  of  the  surrounding  scenery.  The  sudden  and 
'continued  influx  of  Portuguese  and  foreigners  not  only  showed 
itself  in  the  population  of  Rio,  but  extended  inland,  causing  new 
ways  of  communication  to  be  opened  with  the  interior,  new  towns 
to  be  erected,  and  old  ones  to  be  improved.  In  fact,  the  whole 
face  of  the  countr}'^  underwent  great  and  rapid  changes. 

The  manners  of  the  people  also  experienced  a  corresponding 
mutation.  The  fashions  of  Europe  were  introduced.  From  the 
seclusion  and  restraints  of  non-intercourse  the  people  emerged  into 
the  festive  ceremonies  of  a  court,  whose  levees  and  gala-days  drew 
together  multitudes  from  all  directions.  In  the  mingled  society 
which  the  capital  now  offered,  the  dust  of  retirement  was  brushed 
off,  antiquated  customs  gave  way,  new  ideas  and  modes  of  life 
were  adopted,  and  these  spread  from  circle  to  circle  and  from 
[town  to  town. 

Business  assumed  an  aspect  equally  changed.  Foreign  com- 
mercial houses  were  opened,  and  foreign  artisans  established  them- 
selves in  Rio  and  other  cities. 

This  country  could  no  longer  remain  a  colony.  A  decree  was 
promulgated  in  December,  1815,  declaring  it  elevated  to  the  dig- 
nity of  a  kingdom,  and  hereafter  to  form  an  integral  part  of  the 
United  Kingdom  of  Portugal,  Algarves,  and  Brazil.     It  is  scarcely' 


Rapid  Political  Changes.  67 

possible  to  imagine  the  enthusiasm  awakened  by  this  unlooked-for 
change  throughout  the  vast  extent  of  Portuguese  America.  Mes- 
sengers were  despatched  to  bear  the  news,  which  was  hailed  with 
spontaneous  illuminations  from  the  La  Plata  to  the  Amazon. 
Scarcely  Avas  this  event  consummated  when  the  queen,  Donna 
Maria  I.,  died. 

She  was  mother  to  the  Prince-Eegent,  and  had  been  for  years  in 
a  state  of  mental  imbecility'',  so  that  her  death  had  no  influence 
upon  political  affairs.  Her  funeral  obsequies  were  performed  with 
great  splendor;  and  her  son,  in  respect  for  her  memory,  delayed 
the  acclamation  of  his  accession  to  the  throne  for  a  year.  He  was 
at  length  crowned,  with  the  title  of  Dom  John  VI.  The  cere- 
monies of  the  coronation  were  celebrated  Avith  suitable  magnifi-. 
cence  in  the  Palace  Square,  on  the  5th  of  February,  1818, 

Amid  all  the  advantages  attendant  upon  the  new  state  of  things 
in  Brazil,  there  were  many  circumstances  calculated  to  provoke 
political  discontent.  It  was  then  that  bitter  feelings  toward  the 
natives  of  Portugal  sprang  up,  which,  though  modified,  still  exist 
throughout  the  Empire,  and  made,  at  a  later  date,  the  severance 
of  Brazil  from  the  mother-country  more  easy  of  accomplishment 
than  the  separation  of  the  thirteen  colonies  of  North  America  from 
the  crown  of  Great  Britain.  There  had  always  been,  to  a  greater 
or  less  extent,  a  certain  rivalry  between  the  native  Brazilian  and 
the  Portuguese ;  but  now  it  found  a  new  cause  of  excitement.  The 
Government  felt  itself  bound  to  find  places  for  the  more  than 
twenty  thousand  needy  and  unprincipled  adventurers  who  had 
followed  the  royal  family  to  the  Kew  World.  These  men  cared 
very  little  for  the  welfare  of  Brazil,  either  in  the  administration 
of  justice  or  in  acts  for  the  benefit  of  the  public.  Their  greatest 
interest  by  far  was  manifested  in  the  eager  desire  to  fleece  the 
country  and  enrich  themselves.  Honors  were  heaped  upon  those 
Brazilians  who  had  furnished  house  and  money  to  the  Prince- 
Regent;  and,  as  he  had  nothing  to  give  them  but  decorations,  he 
was  soon  surrounded  by  knights  Avho  had  never  displayed  either 
chivahy  or  learning.  The  excitement  thus  aroused  in  a  country 
where  titulary  distinctions  Avere  hitherto  almost  unknoAvn  was 
intense.  Every  one  aspired  to  become  a  cavalheiro  or  a  coin- 
mendador,  and  the  most  degrading  sycophancy  was  practised  to 


68  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

obtain  the  ro^-al  favor.  Men  who  had  been  good  traders  in  im- 
ported articles,  or  successful  dealers  in  mandioca  and  coffee,  once 
knighted,  could  never  again  return  to  the  drudgery  and  debasing 
associations  of  commercial  life,  and  must  live  either  on  previously- 
acquired  fortunes  or  seek  Government  employment. 

On  this  gi'ound  the  native  Brazilians  and  the  newly-arrived 
Portuguese  fought  their  first  battles.  They  were  rivals  for  place, 
and,  once  in  office,  the  Brazihan  was  as  open  to  evcrj*  species  of 
bribery  and  corruption  as  the  most  venal  hanger-on  of  the  court 
from  Lisbon.  The  Brazilians,  however,  had  one  advantage  over 
their  adversaries.  The  natives  sympathized  most  fully  with  their 
recently-knighted  brethren,  and  listened  to  their  complaints  with 
a  willing  ear.  These  things,  together  with  the  wretched  state  of 
morals  that  prevailed  at  the  court,  were  calculated  to  increase  the 
jealousy  of  what  the  Brazilians  considered  a  foreign  dominion 
over  thera.  The  independence  of  the  English  North  American 
colonies  and  the  successful  revolutionary  struggle  of  some  of  the 
neighboring  Spanish-American  provinces  still  more  augmented  the 
uneasiness  of  the  people ;  and  a  consciousness  of  this  increasing 
discontent,  and  a  fear  that  Brazil  might  be  induced  to  follow  the 
example  of  her  revolting  Spanish  neighbors,  doubtless  had  a 
powerful  influence  upon  the  Grovernment  in  making  the  con- 
cessions named. 

Tranquillity  followed  the  erection  of  Brazil  into  a  constituent 
portion  of  the  kingdom;  but  it  was  of  short  duration.  Discontent 
was  at  Avork.  The  intended  revolt  at  Peruambuco  in  1817  was 
betrayed  to  the  Government,  and  the  insurgents  were  prematurely 
compelled  to  take  up  arms,  and  suffered  defeat  from  the  troops 
sent  against  them  by  the  Count  dos  Arcos.  From  this  time  there 
seems  to  have  been  a  systematic  exclusion  of  native  Brazilians 
from  commands  in  the  army. 

Murmurs  were  gradually  disseminated;  but  they  found  no  echo — 
as  in  the  case  of  the  jSTorth  American  colonies  —  from  the  press, 
which  had,  with  common  schools,  followed  in  the  immediate  wake 
of  the  English  colonists.  The  first,  and  at  that  time  the  only, 
printing-press  in  the  country,  was  brought  from  Lisbon  in  1808, 
and  was  under  the  direct  control  of  the  royal  authorities.  Its 
columns  faithfully  recorded  for  the  Brazilian  public  the  health  of 


Departure  of  D.  John  VL  69 

all  the  Eun^pcan  princes.  It  was  filled  with  official  edicts,  birth- 
day odes,  and  panegyrics  on  the  royal  family;  but  its  jiagos  were 
unsullied  by  the  ebullitions  of  the  democracy,  or  the  exposure  of 
their  grievances.  As  has  been  well  said  by  Armitage,  "  to  have 
judged  of  the  country  by  the  tone  of  its  only  journal,  it  must  have 
been  pronounced  a  terrestrial  paradise,  Avhere  no  word  of  com- 
plaint had  ever  yet  found  utterance." 

But  at  length  the  time  arrived  when  the  monotony  of  the  Court 
Gazette  was  interrupted,  and  the  people  soon  found  voices  for 
their  grievances,  and  in  the  end  substantial  redress. 

The  revolution  which  occurred  in  Portugal  in  1821,  in  favor  of  a 
Constitution,  was  immediately  responded  to  by  a  similar  one  in 
Brazil. 

After  much  excitement  and  alarm  from  the  tumultuous  move- 
ments of  the  people,  the  King,  D.  John.  VI.,  conferred  upon  his  son 
Dom  Pedro,  Prince-Eoyal,  the  office  of  Regent  and  Lieutenant  to 
His  Majesty  in  the  Kingdom  of  Brazil.  He  then  hastened  his  de- 
parture for  Portugal,  accompanied  by  the  remainder  of  his  family 
and  the  principal  nobility  who  had  followed  him.  The  disheartened 
monarch  embarked  on  board  a  line-of-battle  ship  on  the  24th  of 
AjDril,  1821,  leaving  the  widest  and  fairest  j)ortion  of  his  dominions 
to  a  destiny  not  indeed  unlooked  for  by  his  majesty,  but  wJiich 
was  fulfilled  much  sooner  than  his  melancholy  forebodings  antici- 
pated.* 

Eapid  as  had  been  the  ijolitical  changes  in  Brazil  during  the  last 
ten  years,  greater  changes  still  were  about  to  take  place.  Dom 
Pedro,  who  now  enjoyed  the  dignity  and  attributes  of  Prince- 
Eegent  and  Lieutenant  of  His  Majesty  the  King  of  Portugal,  was 
at  this  period  in  the  twenty-third  year  of  his  age.  He  possessed 
many  of  the  essentials  of  popularity.  His  personal  beauty  was 
not  less  marked  than  his  frank  and  affable  manners,  and  his  dispo- 
sition, though  capricious,  was  enthusiastic.  He  had  decision  of 
character,  and  was  one  who  seemed  to  know  when  to  seize  the 


*  Just  as  the  vessel  was  ready  to  sail,  the  old  king  pressed  his  son  to  his  bosom 
for  the  last  time,  and  exclaimed,  "Pedro,  Brazil  will,  I  fear,  ere  long  separate 
herself  from  Portugal ;  and  if  so,  place  the  crown  on  thine  own  head  rather  than 

allow  it  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  any  adventurer." 


70  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

proper  moment  for  calming  the  populace,  as  when  at  Eio,  while 
the  Kinc:  was  in  the  Palace  of  San  Christovilo,  only  three  miles 
away,  ne,  upon  his  own  authority,  gave  to  the  people  and  the 
troops  a  decree  whereby  an  unreserved  acceptance  of  the  future 
Constitution  of  the  Portuguese  Cortes  was  guaranteed.  He  also 
knew  Avell  how  to  guard  his  prerogative.  The  Prince's  consort 
was  by  lineage  and  talent  worthy  of  his  hand,  for  Leopoldina  was 
an  archduchess  of  Austria;  in  her  veins  coursed  the  blood  of 
Maria  Theresa,  and  it  was  her  sister  Maria  Louisa  who  was  the 
bride  of  Napoleon.  She  was  not  possessed  of  great  personal 
beauty,  j'ct  her  kindness  of  heart  and  her  unpretentious  bearing 
endeared  her  to  every  one  who  knew  her. 

Dom  Pedro  had  left  Portugal  when  a  mere  lad,  and'  it  was 
believed  that  his  highest  aspirations  were  associated  with  the  land 
of  his  adoption.  In  the  office  of  Prince-Eegent  he  certainl}^  found 
scope  for  his  most  ardent  ambition;  but  he  also  discovered  himself 
to  be  surrounded  with  numerous  difficulties,  political  and  financial. 
So  embarrassing  indeed  was  his  situation,  that  in  the  course  of  a 
few  months  he  begged  his  father  to  allow  him  to  resign  his  office 
and  attributes.  The  Cortes  of  Portugal  about  this  time  becoming 
jealous  of  the  position  of  the  Prince  in  Brazil,  passed  a  decree 
ordering  him  to  return  to  Europe,  and  at  the  same  time  abolishing 
the  royal  tribunals  at  Eio.  This  decree  was  received  with  indig- 
nation by  the  Brazilians,  who  immediately  rallied  around  Dom 
Pedro,  and  persuaded  him  to  remain  among  them.  His  consent  to 
do  so  gave  rise  to  the  most  enthusiastic  demonstrations  of  joy 
among  both  patriots  and  loyalists.  The  Portuguese  military  soon 
evinced  symptoms  of  mutiny. 

A  conflict  seemed  inevitable;  but  the  Portuguese  commander 
vacillated  in  view  of  the  determined  opposition  manifested  by  the 
people,  who  flew  to  arms,  and  offered  to  capitulate  on  the  condition 
of  his  soldiers  retaining  their  arms.  This  was  conceded,  on  their 
agreeing  to  retire  to  Praia  Grande,  a  city  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  bay,  until  transports  could  be  provided  for  their  embarkation 
to  Lisbon;  which  was  subsequently  effected.  The  measures  of  the 
Cortes  of  Portugal,  which  continued  to  be  arbitrary  in  the  extreme 
toward  Brazil,  finally  had  the  effect  to  hasten,  in  the  latter  country, 
a  declaration  of  absolute  independence.     This  measure  had  long 


Declaration  of  Independence.  71 

been  ardently  desired  by  the  more  enlightened  Brazilians,  some  of 
whom  had  already  urged  Dom  Pedro  to  assume  the  title  of  Emperor 
Hitherto  he  had  refused,  and  reiterated  his  allegiance  to  Portugal 
But  ho  at  length,  while  on  a  journey  to  the  province  of  S.  Paulo 
received  despatches  from  the  mother-country,  which  had  the  effect 
of  cutting  short  all  delay,  and  caused  him  to  declare  for  independ- 
ence in  a  manner  so  decided  and  explicit  that  henceforward  all 
retrograde  measures  would  be  utterly  impracticable. 

On  the  7th  of  September,  1822,  when  he  read  the  despatches,  he 
was  surrounded  by  his  courtiers,  on  those  beautiful  camj)inas  in 
sight  of  San  Paulo,  a  city  which  had  ever  been,  as  it  is  now,  cele- 
brated in  Brazil  for  the  liberality  and  intelligence  of  its  inhabitants. 
It  was  then,  on  the  margin  of  an  insignificant  stream, — the 
Ypiranga, — that  he  made  that  exclamation,  ^'■Iridependencia  ou  viorte," 
(Independence  or  death,)  which  became  the  watchword  of  the  Bra- 
zilian Revolution;  and  from  the  7th  of  September,  1822,  the  inde- 
pendence of  the  countr^^  has  since  held  its  ofiicial  date.  It  has 
been  truly  said  that  in  the  eyes  of  the  civilized  world  it  was  a 
memorable  circumstance,  and  must  ever  form  an  epoch  in  the 
history  of  the  Western  continent. 

It  was  indeed  a  gi-eat  event,  which  has  led  to  vast  results.  It 
was  a  grand  revolution,  begun  by  one  whose  very  birth  and  position 
would  have  led  the  contemplative  philosopher  or  statesman  to 
pronounce  it  impossible  that  he  should  become  the  leader  of  a 
popular  cause.  It  was  the  descendant  of  a  long  line  of  Euroj^ean 
monarchs  who  inaugurated  that  movement  which  severed  the  last 
— the  most  faithful — of  the  great  divisions  of  South  America  from 
transatlantic  rule. 

The  Prince-Regent  hastened  to  Rio  de  Janeiro  by  a  rapid  journey; 
and  there,  so  soon  as  his  determination  was  known,  the  enthusiasm 
in  his  favor  knew  no  bounds. 

The  municipality  of  the  capital  issued  a  proclamation  on  the  2l8t 
of  Septembei',  declaring  their  intention  to  fulfil  the  manifest  wishes 
of  the  people,  by  proclaiming  Dom  Pedro  the  constitutional  Emperor 
and  perpetual  defender  of  Brazil.  This  ceremony  was  performed 
on  the  12th  of  October  following,  in  the  Campo  de  Santa  Anna,  iu 
the  presence  of  the  municipal  authorities,  the  functionaries  of  the 
court,  the  troops,  and  an  immense  concourse  of  peoj^le.     His  High- 


72  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

ness  there  publicly  declared, his  acceptance  of  the  title  conferred  on 
him,  from  the  conviction  that  he  was  thus  obeying  the  will  of  the 
people.  The  troops  fired  a  salute,  and  the  citj^  was  illuminated  in 
the  evening.  Jose  Bonifacio  de  Andrada,  prime  minister  of  the 
Government,  had  in  the  mean  time  promulgated  a  decree,  requiring 
all  the  Portuguese  who  were  disposed  to  embrace  the  popular  cause 
to  manifiest  their  sentiments  by  wearing  the  Emperor's  motto — 
"  Independencia  ou  morte" — upon  their  arm,  ordering  also,  that  all 
dissentients  should  leave  the  country  within  a  given  period,  and 
threatening  the  penalties  imposed  upon  high-treason  against  any 
one  who  should  thenceforward  attack,  by  word  or  deed,  the  sacred 
cause  of  Brazil. 

The  prime  minister  was  the  eldest  of  three  brothers,  all  of  them 
remarkable  for  their  talents,  learning,  eloquence,  and  (though  at 
times  factious)  for  their  sterling  patriotism.  They  were  unin- 
fluenced by  either  the  adulation  of  the  populace  or  the  favor  of  the 
Emperor.  Jose  Bonifacio  de  Andrada  combined,  to  an  eminent 
degree,  the  various  excellencies  suited  to  the  emergencies  of  the 
incipient  stages  of  the  Empire. 

The  Brazilian  Revolution  was  comparatively  a  bloodless  one. 
The  glory  of  Portugal  was  already  waning;  her  resources  were 
exhausted,  and  her  energies  crippled' by  internal  dissensions. 

That  nation  made  nothing  like  a  systematic  and  persevering 
effort  to  maintain  her  ascendency  over  her  long-depressed  but  now 
rebellious  colony.  The  insulting  measures  of  the  Cortes  were  con- 
summated only  in  their  vaporing  decrees.  The  Portuguese  domi- 
nion was  maintained  for  some  time  in  Bahia  and  other  ports,  which 
had  been  occupied  by  military  forces.  But  these  forces  were  at 
length  compelled  to  withdraw  and  leave  Brazil  to  her  own  control. 
So  little  contested,  indeed,  and  so  rapid,  was  this  revolution,  that  in 
les''  than  three  years  from  the  time  independence  was  declared  on 
the  plains  of  the  Ypiranga,  Brazil  was  acknowledged  to  be  inde- 
pendent at  the  court  of  Lisbon.  In  the  mean  time  the  Emperor 
had  been  crowned  as  Dom  Pedro  I.,  and  an  assembly  of  delegates 
from  the  provinces  had  been  convoked  for  the  formation  of  a 
Constitution. 


ARMS     OF     THE      BRAZILIAN      EMPIRE. 


CHAPTER  Y. 

TUE  ANDRADAS INSTRUCTIONS    OF    THE    EMPEKOR  TO  TUE  CONSTITUENT  ASSEMHLY — ■ 

DOM    PEDRO    I.    DISSOLVES    THE    ASSEMBLY    BY    FORCE — CONSTITUTION    FRAMED    BY 

A    SPECIAL     COMMISSION CONSIDERATIONS     OF     THIS    DOCUMENT THE     RULE      OF 

DOM    PEDRO  I. CAUSES  OF  DISSATISFACTION THE    EMPEROR  ABDICATES  IN  FAVOB 

OF    DOM    PEDRO    II. 

The  new  state  of  affairs  did  not,  however,  proceed  with  either 
smoothness  or  velocity.  Political  bitterness,  jealousy,  and  strife 
were  at  work.  The  Andrada  ministry*  were  accused  of  being 
arbitrary  and  tyrannical.  Brazil  owed  her  independence,  and  Dom 
Pedro  I.  his  crown,  chiefly  to  their  exei'tionsj  yet  their  administra- 
tions cannot  by  any  means  be  exempted  from  censure.  Their 
views  were  certainly  comprehensive,  and  their  intentions  patriotic; 
but  their  impatient  and  ambitious  spirit  rendered  them,  when  in 
power,  intolerant  to  their  political  opponents.  They  were  assailed 
with  great  energy,  and  finally  compelled  to  resign;  but  such  were 
the  tumults  of  the  people,  and  the  violent  partisan  exertions  in 
their  favor,  that  they  were  reinstated,  and  Jose  Bonifacio  was 
drawn  in  his  carriage  by  the  populace  through  the  streets  of  Eio 
de  Janeiro.     Eight  months  afterward  a  combination  of  all  parties 


*  Jose  Bonifacio  was  prime  minister,  and  Martin  Francisco  de  indrada  was  at 
the  head  of  the  Finance  Department. 

73 


14:  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

again  effected  the  ejection  of  the  brothers  Andrada  from  the 
ministry,  but  not  from  power.  They  became  the  most  factious 
opponents  of  the  Emperor  and  of  the  ministry  which  succeeded 
theirs.  They  were  unmitigated  in  their  attacks,  both  in  the 
Assembly  and  through  the  press. 

The  Constituent  Assembly  had  done  little  besides  wrangling. 
The  members  were  mostly  men  of  narrow  views  and  of  little 
ability;  hence  it  was  that  the  Andradas,  by  their  eloquence  and 
knowledge  of  parliamentary  tactics,  had  such  power  over  their 
minds.  The  Emperor,  with  great  good  sense,  had,  in  opening  the 
sessions,  told  the  Assembly  that  the  recent  ''Constitutions  founded 
on  the  models  of  those  of  1791  and  1792  had  been  acknowledged 
as  too  abstract  and  too  metaphj'sical  for  execution.  This  has  been 
jH'Oved  by  the  example  of  France,  and  more  recently  by  that  of 
Spain  and  Portugal."  His  Imperial  Majesty  seems  to  have  had  a 
high  standard  of  constitutional  excellence,  and  one  which  we  would 
have  deemed  it  difficult,  and  perhaps  impossible,  for  the  Brazilian 
peojjle  to  have  reached.  "We  have  need,"  he  said  in  his  address 
from  the  throne,  "  of  a  Constitution  where  the  powers  may  be  so 
divided  and  defined,  that  no  one  branch  can  arrogate  to  itself  the 
prerogatives  of  another;  a  Constitution  which  may  be  an  insur- 
mountable barrier  against  all  invasion  of  the  royal  authority, 
whether  aristocratic  or  popular;  which  will  overthrow  anarch}', 
and  cherish  the  tree  of  liberty;  beneath  whose  shade  we  shall  see 
the  union  and  the  independence  of  this  Empire  flourish.  In  a  word, 
a  Constitution  that  will  excite  the  admiration  of  other  nations,  and 
even  of  our  enemies,  who  will  consecrate  the  triumph  of  our  prin- 
ciples in  adopting  them."  (From  the  Falla  do  Throno,  3d  May, 
1823.) 

Notwithstanding  those  instructions,  the  Constituent  Assembly 
made  no  progress  in  forming  a  document  from  which  such  grand 
results  were  to  flow  as  those  depicted  by  the  Emperor.  The 
Andradas  continued  their  opposition  to  various  measures  brought 
forward  by  the  Government.  His  Majesty  was  irritated  by  their 
continual  thrusts  at  the  Portuguese  incorporated  in  the  Brazilian 
army.  An  outrage  committed  by  two  Portuguese  officers  upon  the 
supposed  author  of  an  attack  upon  them  was,  in  the  excited  state 
of  public  feeling,  magnified  into  an  outrage  on  the  nation.     The 


D.  Pedro  L  Dissolves  the  Assembly.  '75 

8uflfci-cr  demanded  justice  from  the  House  of  Deputies,  and  the 
Andradas  most  loudly  demanded  vengeance  on  the  Portuguese 
aggressors.  The  journal  under  their  control,  called  the  "  Tamoyo," 
(from  a  tribe  of  Indians  who  wore  the  bitter  foes  of  the  early  Por- 
tuguese settlers,)  was  equally  violent.  It  even  went  so  far  as  to 
insinuate  that  if  the  Government  did  not  turn  aside  from  its  anti- 
national  course,  its  power  would  be  of  short  continuance,  and,  as  a 
warning  to  the  Emperor,  the  examjjle  of  Charles  I.  of  England  was 
alluded  to  in  no  unmeaning  terms. 

But  Dora  Pedro  I.  was  no  weak  and  vacillating  Stuart.  He  pos- 
sessed more  of  the  spirit  of  Oliver  Cromwell  or  of  the  First  Na- 
poleon. The  Assembly,  through  the  three  brothers,  was  induced 
to  declare  itself  in  permanent  session.  The  Emperor,  finding  that 
they  (the  Andradas)  still  maintained  their  predominance,  mounted 
on  horseback,  and,  at  the  head  of  his  cavalry,  marched  to  the 
Chamber,  planted  his  cannon  before  its  walls,  and  sent  up  General 
Moraes  to  the  Assembly  to  order  its  instantaneous  dissolution. 

The  Assembly  was  broken  up.  The  three  Andradas  were  seized,  as 
well  as  the  Deputies  Eocha  and  Montezuma,  and  were,  without  trial 
or  examination,  transported  to  France.  Thus  ended,  for  a  brief 
period  at  least,  the  political  career  of  the  eloquent,  patriotic,  and 
factious  Andradas. 

The  Emperor  issued  a  proclamation,  stating  that  he  had  taken 
the  measures  recounted  above,  solely  with  the  view  of  avoiding 
anarch}^;  and  the  public  were  reminded  that  "  though  the  Emperor 
had,  from  regard  to  the  tranquillity  of  the  Empire,  thought  fit  to 
dissolve  the  said  Assembly,  he  had  in  the  same  decree  convoked 
another,  in  conformity  with  the  acknowledged  constitutional  rights 
of  his  people." 

A  special  commission  of  ten  individuals  was  convened  on  the 
26th  of  November,  1823,  for  the  purpose  of  forming  such  a  Con- 
stitution as  might  meet  with  the  Imperial  approval.  The  members 
of  this  commission  immediately  commenced  their  labors  under  the 
personal  superintendence  of  D.  Pedro  I.,  who  furnished  them  the 
bases  of  the  document  which  he  wished  to  bo  framed,  and  gave 
them  forty  days  for  the  accomplishment  of  the  object. 

The  ten  councillors,  as  a  body,  were  badly  qualified  for  the  im- 
portant task  before  them;  yet  several  of  their  number  were  noted 


76  Bkazil  axd  the  Brazilians. 

for  the  excellence  of  their  private  characters,  and  two  only  for 
their  erudition.  One  of  these  two,  Carneiro  de  Campos,  was  for- 
tunately intrusted  with  the  drawing  up  of  the  Constitution,  and 
to  him  it  has  been  said  Brazil  is  principally  indebted  for  a  number 
of  the  most  liberal  provisions  of  the  code, — provisions  Avhich  he 
insisted  on  introducing  in  opposition  to  the  wishes  of  many  of  his 
colleagues. 

It  is  evident  that  the  drafting-committee  of  ten  could  not  foresee 
how  liberal  were  the  provisions  of  this  Constitution,  for  most  of 
them  were  staunch  royalists;  yet  various  providential  circum- 
stances conduced  to  the  production  of  a  just  and  liberal  instrument 
of  government.     [See  Appendix  B.] 

Its  most  important  features  may  be  stated  in  a  few  words.  The 
government  of  the  Empire  is  monarchical,  hereditarj^,  constitutional, 
and  representative.  The  religion  of  the  State  is  the  Eoman  Ca- 
tholic, but  all  other  denominations  are  tolerated.  Judicial  pro- 
ceedings are  public,  and  there  is  the  right  of  habeas  corpus  and 
trial  by  jury.  The  legislative  power  is  in  the  General  Assembly, 
which  answers  to  the  Imperial  Parliament  of  England  or  to  the 
Congress  of  the  United  States.  The  senators  are  elected  for  life, 
and  the  representatives  for  four  j^ears.  The  presidents  of  the 
provinces  arc  appointed  by  the  Emperor.  There  is  a  legislative 
Assembly  to  each  province  for  local  laws,  taxation,  and  government: 
thus,  Brazil  is  a  decentralized  Empire.  The  senators  and  representa- 
tives of  the  General  Assembly  are  chosen  through  the  intervention 
of  electors,  as  is  the  President  of  the  United  States,  and  the  pro- 
vincial legislators  are  elected  by  universal  suffrage.  The  press  is 
free,  and  there  is  no  proscription  on  account  of  color, 

The  Constitution  thus  framed  was  accepted  by  the  Emperor,  and 
on  the  25th  of  March,  1824,  w^as  sworn  to  by  his  Imperial  High- 
ness, and  by  the  authorities  and  people  throughout  the  Empire.  It 
is  an  instrument  truly  remarkable,  considering  the  source  whence 
it  emanated,  and  we  cannot  continue  the  subsequent  history  of 
the  countr}^  without  devoting  to  its  merits  a  few  passing  reflections. 

This  Constitution  commenced  by  being  the  most  liberal  of  all 
other  similar  documents  placed  before  a  South  American  people.  In 
its  wise  and  tolerant  notions,  and  in  its  adaptation  to  the  nation  for 
which  it  was  prepared,  it  is  second  onl}"  to  that  which  govei-ns  the 


The  Brazilian  Constitution,  XT 

A.ngIo-Saxon  Confederacy  of  North  Amcricii.  States  and  indi- 
viduals may  utter,  in  their  charters  of  government,  fine  sentences 
in  regard  to  equality  and  right;  but  if  they  fail  in  practicability 
and  in  securing  those  very  elements  of  justice,  stabilitj^,  and  pro- 
gress, the  eloquent  phrases  arc  but  "as  sounding  brass  or  a  tinkling 
cymbal."  The  Brazilian  Constitution  has,  to  a  great  extent,  secured 
equality,  justice,  and  consequently  national  prosperity.  She  is 
to-day  govci'ned  by  the  same  Constitution  with  which  more  than 
thirt}'  years  ago  she  commenced  her  full  career  as  a  nation.  While 
every  Spanish-American  Government  has  been  the  scene  of  bloody 
revolutions, — while  the  civilized  world  has  looked  with  horror, 
wonder,  and  pity  upon  the  self-constituted  bill  of  the  people's 
rights  again  and  again  trampled  under  foot  by  turbulent  faction 
and  priestly  bigotry,  or  by  the  tyranny  of  the  most  narrow-minded 
dictators, — the  only  Portuguese-American  Government  (though  it 
has  had  its  provincial  revolts  of  a  short  duration)  has  beheld  but 
two  revolutions,  and  those  were  peaceful, — one  fully  in  accordance 
with  the  Constitution;*  the  other,  the  proclamation  of  the  ma- 
jority of  Dom  Pedro  II.,  was  by  suspending  a  single  article  of  the 
Government  compact. 

Mexico,  which,  in  extent  of  territory,  population,  and  resources, 
is  more  properly  comparable  to  Brazil  than  any  other  Hispano- 
American  country,  established  her  first  Constitution  only  one 
month  (Februar}^,  1824)  earlier  than  the  adoption  of  the  Brazilian 
charter  of  government  and  rights.  But  poor  Mexico  has  been  the 
prey  of  every  unscrupulous  demagogue  who  could  for  the  moment 
command  the  army.  Her  Constitution  has  repeatedly  been  over- 
tlirown;  the  victorious  soldiery  of  a  hardier  nation  placed  her  at 
the  mercy  of  a  foreign  cabinet;  her  dominion  has  been  despoiled; 
her  commerce  crippled  and  diminished  by  her  own  inertness  and 
narrow  policy;  personal  security  and  national  prosperity  are 
unknown,  and  her  people  are  this  day  no  further  advanced  than 
when  the  Constitution  was  fii'st  set  aside  in  1835. 

Brazil,  on  the  other  hand,  has  been  continually  progressing. 
The  head  of  the  Empire  is  in  the  same  famil}',  and  governs  under 

*  The  abdication  of  Dom  Pedro  I.  in  favor  of  his  son,  Dom  Pedro  II.,  the  present 
Emperor. 


78  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

the  same  Constitution  that  was  established  in  1824.  Her  commercfe 
doubles  every  ten  years ;  she  possesses  cities  lighted  by  gas,  long 
lines  of  steamships,  and  the  beginnings  of  railways  that  are  spread- 
ing from  the  sea-coast  into  the  fertile  interior;  in  her  borders 
education  and  genei-al  intelligence  are  constantly  advancing. 

This  great  contrast  cannot  be  accounted  for  altogether  on  the 
ground  of  the  ditference  between  the  two  people  and  between 
their  respective  forms  of  government.  It  is  doubtless  true  that 
a  Monarchy  is  better  suited  to  the  Latin  nations  than  a  Republic ; 
and  it  is  equally  apparent  that  there  is  a  very  great  dissimilarity 
between  the  Spaniard  and  his  descendants,  and  the  Portuguese  and 
his  descendants.  The  Spaniard  affects  to  despise  the  Portuguese, 
and  the  latter  has  of  late  years  been  underrated  in  the  eyes  of  the 
world.*  The  child  of  Castile,  take  him  where  you  will,  is  ambi- 
tious, chivalric,  bigoted,  vain,  extravagant,  and  laz}".  The  son 
of  Lusitania  is  not  wanting  in  vanity,  but  is  more  tolerant  and 
less  turbulent  than  his  neighbor,  and  is  a  being  both  economical 
and  industrious. 

The  reasons,  under  Providence,  of  the  great  divergence  in  the 
results  of  the  Brazilian  and  Mexican  Constitution  may  be  summed 
up  briefly  thus : — Brazil,  while  providing  a  hereditarj^  monarchical 
head,  recognised  most  fully  the  democratic  element ;  while  acknow- 
ledging the  Roman  Catholic  religion  to  be  that  established  b}'-  the 
State,  she  guaranteed,  with  the  single  limitations  of  steeples  and 
bells,  the  unrestricted  right  of  worship  to  all  other  denominations; 
she  established  public  judicial  proceedings,  the  habeas  corpus,  and 
the  right  of  trial  by  jury. 

Mexico,  in  the  formation  of  her  Constitution,  copied  that  of  the 
United  States,  but  departed  from  that  document,  in  the  two  most 
important  particuhirs,  as  widely  as  the  oft-quoted  strolling  actors 
de^iatcd  from  the  original  tragedy  when  i\\Qj  advertised  "Hamlet" 
to  be  played  minus  the  role  of  the  Prince  of  Denmark.  The  Mexican 
Constitution  established  an  exclusive  religion  with  all  the  rigorous 
bigotry  of  Old  Spain  ;  and  public  judicial  proceedings  and  the  inter- 
vention by  juries  were  omitted  altogether.     The  starting-point  of 

*  "Strip  a  Spaniard  of  all  his  virtues,  and  you  make  a  good  Portuguese  of 
him." — Spanish  Peoverb. 


The  Rule  of  Dom  Pedro  L  79 

Brazil  and  Mexico  wore  entirely  different :  the  former,  happy  in  a 
suitable  form  of  government  and  in  liberal  principles  from  the 
beginning,  has  outstripped  the  latter  in  all  that  constitutes  true 
national  greatness. 

Brazil  did  not,  however,  attain  her  present  proud  position  in 
South  America  without  days  of  trial  and  hard  experience.  Corrupt 
and  unprincipled  men  were  in  greater  numbers  than  those  who 
possessed  stern  and  patriotic  virtue.  The  people  were  ignorant 
and  unaccustomed  to  self-government,  and  were  often  used  by 
unscrupulous  leaders  to  the  advancement  of  their  own  purposes. 

The  administration  of  Dom  Pedro  I.  continued  about  ten  years, 
and,  during  its  lapse,  the  country  unquestionably  made  greater 
advances  in  intelligence  than  it  had  done  in  three  centuries  which 
intervened  between  its  first  discovery  and  the  proclamation  of  the 
Portuguese  Constitution  in  1820.  Nevertheless,  this  administra- 
tion was  not  without  its  faults  or  its  difficulties.  Dom  Pedro, 
although  not  tyrannical,  was  imprudent.  He  was  energetic,  but 
inconstant ;  an  admirer  of  the  representative  form  of  government,  • 
but  hesitating  in  its  practical  enforcement. 

Elevated  into  a  hero  during  the  struggle  for  independence,  he 
appears  to  have  been  guided  rather  by  the  example  of  other  poten- 
tates than  by  any  mature  consideration  of  the  existing  state  and 
exigencies  of  Brazil;  and  hence,  perhaps,  the  eagerness  with  which 
he  embarked  in  the  war  against  Montevideo,  which  certainly  had 
its  origin  in  aggi'ession,  and  which,  after  crippling  the  commerce, 
checking  the  prosperity,  and  exhausting  the  finances  of  the  Empire, 
ended  only  in  the  full  and  unrestrained  cession  of  the  province  in 
dispute. 

It  may  be  remarked,  that  the  defeat  of  the  Brazilians  in  the 
Banda  Oi-iental,  though  a  seeming  disgrace,  was  one  of  the  greatest 
blessings  that  could  have  been  bestowed  upon  the  Empire.  It 
appears  that  that  war  and  its  disastrous  results  were  the  means 
of  preserving  Brazil  from  making  such  modifications  in  her  Consti- 
tution as  might,  if  effected,  have  terminated  in  the  overthrow 
of  some  of  her  most  valuable  institutions.  The  non-success  of  her 
arms  almost  annihilated  the  thirst  for  military  distinction  which 
was  springing  up;  and  the  energies  of  the  rising  generation  were 
consequently  turned  more  toward  civil  pursuits,  from  which  resulted 


80  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

social  ameliorations  that  tended  to  consolidate  the  well-being  of 
the  State. 

In  addition  to  the  imprudence  and  inconstancy  of  the  Emperor, 
it  was  said — and  not  without  truth — that  his  habits  were  extrava- 
gant and  his  morals  extremely  defective.*  And  yet,  the  main 
cause  of  his  personal  unpopularity  seems  to  have  consisted  in  his 
never  having  known  how  to  become  the  man  of  his  people, — in  his 
never  having  constituted  himself  entirely  and  truly  a  Brazilian. 

He  was  often  heard  to  express  the  sentiment  that  the  only  true 
strength  of  a  government  lay  in  public  opinion  ;  yet,  unfortunately, 
he  did  not  know  how  to  conciliate  the  public  opinion  of  the  people 
over  whom  it  was  his  destiny  to  reign.  At  the  period  of  the  Ilevo- 
lution,  he  had,  under  the  excitements  of  enthusiasm,  uttered  senti- 
ments calculated  to  flatter  the  nascent  spirit  of  nationality,  and  his 
sincerity  had  been  credited ;  j^et  his  subsequent  employment  of  a 
foreign  force,  his  continued  interference  in  the  affairs  of  Portugal, 
his  institution  of  a  secret  cabinet,  and  his  appointment  of  naturalized 
•  Portuguese  to  the  highest  offices  of  the  State,  to  the  apparent  ex- 
clusion of  natives  of  the  soil,  had,  among  a  jealous  people,  given 
rise  to  the  universal  impression  that  the  monarch  himself  was  still 
a  Poi'tuguese  at  heart. 
/]  The  native  Brazilians  believed  that  they  were  beheld  with  sus- 
kI  picion,  and  hence  became  restive  under  a  Government  which  they 
regarded  as  nurturing  foreign  interests  and  a  foreign  party.  Oppor- 
tunities for  manifesting  their  dissatisfaction  frequently  occurred, 
and  these  manifestations  were  met  by  more  offensive  measures. 
At  length,  after  fruitless  efforts  to  suppress  the  rising  spirit  of  re- 
bellion in  different  parts  of  the  Empire,  Dora  Pedro  found  himself 
in  circumstances  as  painful  and  as  humiliating  as  those  which 
forced  his  father,  Dom  John  VI.,  to  retire  to  Portugal.  Opposi- 
tion which  had  long  been  covert  became  undisguised  and  relentless. 
The  most  indifferent  acts  of  the  Emperor  were  distorted  to  his  pre- 
judice, and  all  the  ii-regularities  of  his  private  life  were  brought 

*  The  older  citizens  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  have  not  yet  forgotten  the  place  that  the 
Marchioness  of  Santos  held  in  the  first  Emperor's  affections ;  and  his  slighting 
treatment  of  his  own  spouse — a  daughter  of  the  high  house  of  Hapsburg — was 
notorious.     It  has  been  said  that,  though  a  bad  husband,  he  was  a  good  father. 


Popular  Agitation.  81 

before  the  public.  Individuals  to  whom  be  bad  been  a  benefactor 
deserted  him,  and,  perceiving  that  his  star  was  on  the  wane,  had 
the  baseness  to  contribute  to  his  overthrow.  The  very  army  which 
he  had  raised  at  an  immense  sacrifice,  which  he  had  maintained 
to  the  groat  prejudice  of  his  popularity,  and  on  which  he  had 
unfortunately  placed  more  reliance  than  upon  the  people,  betrayed 
him  at  last. 

After  various  popular  agitations,  which  had  the  continual  effectsj  ^p) 
of  Avidoning  the  breach  between  the  Imperial  party  and  the  patriots,  '  \  " 
the  populace  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  assembled  in  the  Campo  de  Santa 
Anna  on  the  6th  of  April,  1831,  and  began  to  call  out  for  the  dis- 
missal of  the  new  ministry,  and  for  the  reinstatement  of  some  indi- 
viduals who  had  that  very  morning  been  dismissed.  Dom  Pedro  I., 
on  being  informed  of  the  assemblage  and  its  objects,  issued  a  pro- 
clamation, signed  by  himself  and  the  existing  ministry,  assuring 
them  that  the  administration  was  perfect^  constitutional,  and  that 
its  members  would  be  governed  by  constitutional  principles.  A 
justice  of  the  peace  was  despatched  to  read  this  to  the  people ;  yet 
scarcely  had  he  concluded,  w'hen  the  document  was  torn  from  his 
hands  and  trampled  under  foot.  The  cry  for  the  reinstatement 
of  the  cabinet  became  louder;  the  multitude  momentarily  increased 
in  numbers ;  and,  about  six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  three  justices 
of  the  peace  (in  Spanish  America  it  would  have  been  a  battalion  of 
soldiers)  were  despatched  to  the  Imperial  residence  to  demand  tha'' 
the  "ministry  who  had  the  confidence  of  the  people" — as  the  late 
cabinet  were  designated — should  be  reappointed. 

The  Emperor  listened  to  their  requisition,  but  refused  to  accede  >| 
to  the  request.  He  exclaimed,  "I  will  do  every  thing  for  the  ( 
people,  but  nothing  by  the  people  !"  j 

No  sooner  was  this  answer  made  known  in  the  Campo,  than  the 
most  seditious  cries  were  raised,  and  the  troops  began  to  assemble 
there  for  the  purpose  of  making  common  cause  with  the  multi- 
tude. Further  representations  were  made  to  the  Emperor,  but 
were  unavailing.  He  declared  he  would  suffer  death  rather  than 
consent  to  the  dictation  of  the  mob. 

The  battalion  styled  the  Emperor's,  and  quartered  at  Boa  Vista, 
went  to  join  their  comrades  in  the  Canajjo,  where  they  aiu-ived 
about  eleven  o'clock  in  the  evening;  and  even  the  Imperial  guard 


82  Brazil  axd  the  Brazilians. 

of  honor,  winch  had  been  summoned  to  the  palace,  followed.  The 
populace,  already  congregated,  began  to  supply  themselves  with 
arms  from  the  adjoining  barracks.  The  Portuguese  party,  in  the 
mean  time,  judging  themselves  proscribed  and  abandoned,  durst 
not  even  venture  into  the  streets.  The  Emperor,  in  these  trying 
moments,  is  said  to  have  evinced  a  dignity  and  a  magnanimity 
unknown  in  the  days  of  his  prosperity.  On  the  one  hand,  the 
Empress  was  weeping  bitterly,  and  aj)prehending  the  most  fatal 
consequences;  on  the  other,  an  adjutant  from  the  combined 
assemblage  of  the  troops  and  populace  was  urging  him  to  a  final 
answer. 

Dom  Pedro  I.  had  sent  for  the  Intendant  of  Police,  and  desired 
him  to  seek  for  Yergueiro,  a  noble  patriot,  who  had  always  been  a 
favorite  of  the  people,  and  who  combined  moderation  with  sterling 
integrity.  Vergueiro  could  not  be  found.  The  envoy  from  the 
troops  and  populace  urged  his  Majesty  to  give  him  an  immediate 
decision,  or  excesses  would  be  committed  under  the  idea  that  he 
(the  envoy)  had  been  either  assassinated  or  made  prisoner.  The 
Emperor  replied,  with  calmness  and  firmness,  ''I  certainl}'- shall 
not  appoint  the  ministry  which  they  require:  my  honor  and  the 
Constitution  alike  forbid  it,  and  1  would  abdicate,  or  even  suifer 
death,  rather  than  consent  to  such  a  nomination."  The  adjutant 
started  to  give  this  replj'  to  his  general,  but  he  was  requested  by 
Dom  Pedro  (who  seemed  to  be  struggling  with  some  grand  resolve) 
to  staj"  for  a  final  answer. 

Kothing  could  be  heard  from  Yergueiro.  The  populace  were 
growing  more  impatient,  and  the  Emperor  was  still  firmer  in  his 
convictions  of  that  which  his  position  and  the  Constitution  required 
of  him  in  a  moment  so  critical.  But  at  length,  like  the  noble  stag 
of  Landseer,  singled  out  by  the  hounds,  he  stood  alone.  Deserted, 
harassed,  irritated,  and  fiitigued  beyond  description,  with  sadness, 
yet  with  grace,  he  yielded  to  the  circumstances,  and  took  the  only 
measure  consistent  with  his  convictions  and  the  dignity  of  his  im- 
perial office.  It  was  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  when  he  sat  down, 
without  asking  the  advice  of  any  one,  or  even  informing  the  mi- 
nistry of  his  resolution,  and  wrote  out  his  abdication  in  the  follow- 
ing terms  : — 

"Availing  myself  of  the  right  which  the  Constitution  concedes 


Abdication  of  Dom  Pedro  I.  83 

to  me,  I  declare  that  I  have  voluntarily  abdicated  in  favor  of  my 

dearly-beloved  and  esteemed  son,  Dom  Pedro  de  Alcantara. 

"  Boa  Vista,  7th  April,  1831,  tenth  year  "I 
of  the  Independence  of  the  Empire."    i 

He  then  rose,  and,  addressing  himself  to  the  messenger  from  the 
Campo,  said,  '<IIere  is  my  abdication:  may  you  be  happy!  I 
shall  retire  to  Europe,  and  leave  the  country  that  I  have  loved 
deai'ly  and  that  I  still  love."  Tears  now  choked  his  utterance,  and 
he  hastily  retired  to  an  adjoining  room,  where  were  the  Empress 
and  the  English  and  Prench  ambassadors.  He  afterward  dis- 
missed all  his  ministers  save  one,  and,  in  a  decree  which  he  dated 
the  6th  of  April,  proceeded  to  nominate  Jose  Bonifacio  de  Andrada 
(who,  with  his  brothers,  had  been  permitted  to  return  from  exile 
in  1829)  as  the  guardian  to  his  children. 

It  was  a  striking  illustration  of  the  ingratitude  with  which  ho 
was  treated  in  the  hour  of  misfortune,  that  from  all  those  upon 
whom  he  had  conferred  titles  and  riches  he  was  obliged  to  turn 
away  to  the  infirm  old  man  whom,  at  a  former  period,  he  had  re- 
jected and  cruelly  wronged.  Pinally,  after  arranging  his  house- 
hold affairs,  he  embarked  in  one  of  the  boats  of  the  English  line- 
of-battle  ship  the  Warspite,  accompanied  by  the  Empress,*  and  his 
eldest  daughter,  the  late  Queen  of  Portugal. 
A  It  was  fortunate  for  Brazil  that  she  had  enjoyed  that  which  no 
Spanish-American  country  had  ever  experienced, — i.e.  a  transition- 
state.  She  was  not  hurried  from  the  colonial  condition — an  era 
of  childhood — into  self-government,  which  can  only  be  the  normal 
state  of  nations  in  their  manhood.  She  had,  as  we  have  seen,  the 
monarch  of  Portugal,  with  all  his  prestige,  to  be  her  first  leader  in 
national  existence;  afterward  the  son  of  the  king,  who,  by  peculiar 
circumstances,  was  for  a  time  the  idol  of  the  people,  aided  Bi-azil 
in  coming  to  a  maturity  far  better  fitted  for  representative-govern- 
ment institutions  than  any  of  the  neighboring  states  which  had 
achieved  their  independence  at  an  earlier  date.  Had  the  transition 
been  more  violent,  the  permanence  of  such  institutions  would  have 
been  endangered.  '  Dom  Pedro  was  certainly,  in  the  hands  of  God, 

*  The  second   Empress  was   the   accomplished    daughter  of  Prince   Eugene 
Beauharnais,  whom  D.  Pedro  I.  had  married  in  1829. 


84  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

a  prominent  agent  in  giving  to  Brazil  that  form  of  government 
whicla  this  day  so  wisely  rules  the  Empii'e. 

With  all  his  faults,D.  Pedro  I.  was  a  great  man,  and  possessed  some 
noble  aspirations,  coupled  with  a  promptness  of  action  which  will 
be  remembered  long  after  his  errors  have  been  forgotten.  None 
but  a  great  man  could  have  returned  to  Europe  and  have  fought 
the  battle  of  constitutional  monarchy  against  absolutism,  as  he  did 
in  the  contest  with  his  brother,  Dom  Miguel.  His  brief  though 
chivalric  and  heroic  devotion  to  the  cause  of  civil  and  religious 
freedom  in  Portugal  demands  our  highest  admiration;  and  the  suc- 
cessful placing  of  the  young  Queen  Donna  Maria  upon  the  throne 
of  that  country  gave  quiet  to  the  kingdom,  and  was  one  more 
triumph  in  Europe  of  the  liberal  over  the  absolute. 

As  time  rolls  on,  the  true  merits  of  D.  Pedro  I.  are  more  recog- 
nised by  the  Brazilians.  Statues  and  public  monuments  are  erected 
to  his  memory;  and,  though  it  may  not  be  wholly  applicable,  yet 
there  is  no  fulsome  adulation,  too  common  in  that  Southern  clime, 
when  they  entitle  him  ''  0  Washington  do  Brazil." 

He  loved  the  country  of  his  adoption;  and  a  few  days  after  the 
memorable  night  of  his  abdication,  as  he  gazed  for  the  last  time 
upon  the  city  of  Eio  de  Janeiro,  the  magnificent  bay,  and  the  lofty 
Organ  Mountains,  he  poured  from  a  full  heart  the  following  touch- 
ing farewell  to  his  son,  Dom  Pedro  II.,  in  which  not  only  is  parental 
tenderness  manifest,  but  a  deep  solicitude  for  the  land  whose  des- 
tiny at  one  time  seemed  so  closely  linked  with  his  own  : — 

"My  beloved  son  and  my  Emperor,  very  agreeable  are  the  lines 
which  you  wrote  me.  1  was  scarcely  able  to  read  them,  because 
copious  tears  impeded  my  sight.  Now  that  I  am  more  composed, 
1  write  this  to  thank  you  for  your  letter,  and  to  declare  that,  as 
long  as  life  shall  last,  affection  for  you  will  never  be  extinguished 
iu  my  lacerated  heart. 

"To  leave  children,  country,  and  friends  is  the  greatest  possible 
sacrifice;  but  to  bear  away  honor  unsullied, — there  can  be  no  greater 
glory.  Ever  remember  your  father;  love  your  country  and  my 
country;  follow  the  counsel  of  those  who  hav6  the  care  of  your 
education;  and  rest  assured  that  the  world  will  admire  you,  and 
that  I  will  be  filled  with  gladness  at  having  a  son  so'  worthy  of  the 
land  of  his  birth.     I  retire  to  Europe :  it  is  necessary  for  the  tran- 


Departure  of  Dom  Pedro  I.  ftft 

quillity  of  Brazil,  and  that  God  may  cause  her  to  reach  that  degree 
of  prosperity  for  which  she  is  eminently  capable. 

"Adieu,  my  very  dear  son  !  Eeceive  the  blessing  of  your  affec- 
tionate father,  who  departs  without  the  hope  of  ever  seeing  you 
aofain.  D.  Pedro  de  Alcantara. 

"  On  board  tbe  Warspite  frigate, ") 
April  12,  1831."  J 

On  the  following  day  D.  Pedro  I.  went  on  board  the  English 
corvette  Volage.  Before  nightfall  the  Pao  de  Assucar  was  cleared, 
and  the  ex-Emperor  left  Brazil  forever. 

Having  thus  briefly  narrated  the'  historj^  of  the  Empire  to  the 
abdication  of  the  first  Emperor,  we  will  again  turn  our  attention  to 
Kio  de  Janeiro,  where  most  of  the  preceding  events  occurred.  The 
establishment  of  the  regency,  and  the  various  changes  and  progress 
under  the  new  monarch,  D.  Pedro  II.,  will  be  found  in  Chapter  Xll, 


CHAPTEE   VI. 

THE    PRAIA    DO    FLAMENGO THE    THREE-MAN    BEETLE SPLENDID    VIEWS THE     MAN 

WHO    CUT     DOWN    A    PALM-TREE xMOONLIGHT EIO      "TIOEES" — THE      BATHERS — 

GLORIA  HILL — EVENING    SCENE THE    CHURCH — MARRIAGE    OF    CHRISTIANITY  AND 

HEATHENISM A    SERMON     IN    HONOR    OF     OUR    LADY FESTA     DA     GLORIA THE 

LARANGEIEAS ASCENT    OF    THE    CORCOVADO THE    SUGAR-LOAF. 

My  residence  at  Eio  de  Janeiro  was  on  the  Praia  do  Fla- 
mengo, —  a  beach  so  named  from  its  having  been  in  early  days 
frequented  by  this  beautiful  bird.  Let  the  reader  imagine  the 
beaches  of  Newport,  Ehode  Island,  or  of  the  battle-renowned 
Hastings,  transferred  to  the  borders  of  London  or  New  York,  so 
that,  by  taking  omnibus  at  Charing  Cross  or  Union  Square,  in 
fifteen  minutes  he  will  be  on  the  hard  white  sands  and  in  the  pre- 
sence of  the  huge  ocean-waves,  and  he  will  have  an  idea  of  Pra-ia 
do  riaraengo.  Entering  one  of  the  Gondolas  Flumvienses  at  the 
Palace  Square,  we  rattle  through  various  streets  until  we  arrive  at 
the  foot  of  the  Gloria,  where,  if  we  wish  an  up-hill  ramble,  we 
descend  from  our  vehicle  and  pass  over  the  picturesque  eminence, 
and  are  soon  cooled  by  the  full  blowing  sea-breeze;  or,  if  we  prefei 
a  more  level  promenade,  we'  leave  our  conveyance  at  the  Eua  do 
Principe.  The  noisy  wheels,  and  the  equally  noisy  tongues,  have 
hitherto  prevented  any  other  sounds  from  occupying  our  attention ; 
but  now  the  majestic  thunder  of  the  dashing  waves  breaks  upon 
our  ear.  The  eye  is  startled  by  the  foam-crested  monsters  as  they 
rear  up  in  their  strength  and  seem  ready  to  devour  the  whole 
mansion-lined  shore  in  their  furious  rage.  The  very  ground 
quakes  beneath  us,  and  the  air  is  tremulous  with  the  powerful  con- 
cussion. But  no  danger  is  to  be  apprehended.  The  coast,  a  few 
feet  from  the  sands,  is  rock-bound,  and  along  the  whole  beach  public 
and  private  enterprise  have  erected  strong  walls  of  heavy  stone. 
Sometimes,  however,  old  Neptune  has  asserted  his  rights  A\ith 
86 


The  Three-Man  Beetle. 


87 


such  tremendous  energy,  that  masses  of  rock,  weighing  tons,  have 
been  wrested  from  their  fastenings.  In  May,  1853,  a  storm  pre- 
vailed for  several  days,  and  a  strong  wind  blew  in  the  waves  of  the 
ocean  with  great  directness  against  the  protecting  walls,  and  the 
strife  was  one  of  the  fiercest  that  I  have  ever  witnessed  in  contend- 
ing nature.  As  they  struck  the  parapet  they  dashed  eighty  feet 
in  height,  thus  showering  and  flooding  the  gay ly -painted  residences, 
and  at  the  same  time,  in  their  retreat,  undermining  the  land-side 
of  the  wall,  so  that  for  hundreds  of  feet  between  the  Eua  da 
Princeza  and  the  Eua  do 
Pi  incline  the  municipality 
had  a  heav}'  job  for  some 
favorite  contractor.  (The 
paving  of  the  streets  was 
a  never-failing  source  of 
amusement  to  me  during 
my  first  year  at  Eio.  Look 
at  the  pavers  in  tlie  Eua 
S.  Jose.  The  paving-ram 
is  the  "three-man  beetle" 
of  Shakspeare.  A  trio  of 
slaves  are  called  to  their 
work  by  a  rapid  solo  exe- 
cuted with  a  hammer  up- 
on an  iron  bar.  The  three 
seize  the  ram:  one — the 
maestro,  distinguished  by 
hat — wails  forth  a  ditty, 
which  the  others  join  in  choru- 
at  the  same  time  lifting  the  beeiiL°^^^— ^=- 
from  the  ground  and  bringing  it  dow^n  with 
a  heavy  blow.  A  rest  of  a  few  moments 
occurs,   and  then    the    ditty,   chorus,    and 

thump  are  resumed:  but,  as  may  be  imagined,  the  streets  of  Eio 
were  by  no  means  rapidly  paved.)  The  damage  done  to  the  Praia 
do  Flamengo  required  more  than  one  year  for  reparation.  A  battle 
between  the  sea  and  the  land  like  that  of  1853  does  not  often 
occur:  the  rule  is  peacefulness  and  amiability,  for  the  huge  waves 


THE     THREE-MAN     BEETLE. 


88  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

themselves,  that  seem  to  foam  so  angrily,  are  only  joyous  in  their 
giant  si:)Ort,  and,  once  touching  the  myriad  sands,  kiss  them  in 
their  gentlest  mood,  and  hasten  silently  back  to  their  boisterous 
companions. 

The  front  of  my  house  looked  over  the  bay  to  Jurujuba  and 
Praia  Grande,  and  also  commanded  a  view  of  the  long  Flamengo 
Beach,  the  Babylonia  Signal,  the  lofty  Sugar-Loaf,  and  the  entrance 
to  the  harbor.  Far  up  the  bay  were  verdant  isles,  and  beyond  all 
towered  the  lofty  Organ  Mountains,  sometimes  gleaming  in  sun- 
shine, and  sometimes  half  veiled  in  mist,  but  always  the  grandest 
feature  in  the  landscape.  From  my  back-windows,  on  my  right,  I 
could  see  the  precipitous  southern  side  of  the  Gloria,  and  on  my 
left,  beyond  the  red-tiled  roofs,  upreared  the  tall  Corcovado,  whose 
Kio  face  is  covered  with  forests.  Beneath  me  was  the  garden  of 
my  neighbor,  a  plodding  Portuguese  from  Braga.  This  individual 
was  originally  one  of  those  industrious  ignorant  poor  from  the 
mother-country,  who  in  Brazil  and  elsewhere,  by  dint  of  regularity 
and  economy,  acquire  pi*operty,  but  rarely  taste.  He  had  a  beauti- 
ful stately  palm-tree  in  the  centre  of  his  garden.  Night  after 
night  have  I  listened-  to  the  music  of  the  cool  land-breeze  as  it 
played  through  the  long,  feathery  leaves.  The  sight  of  it  was  re- 
freshing when  the  rays  of  the  noonday  sun  made  the  more  distant 
landscape  quiver.  It  was  a  "thing  of  beauty,"  and  "a  joy,"  but 
not  "forever."  Early  one  morning  I  heard  the  click  of  an  axe; 
and,  rushing  to  my  window,  I  beheld  Sr.  M.  directing  a  black, 
who,  with  sturd}^  blows,  buried  the  sharp  instrument  deep  into  the 
trunk  of  the  noble  tree,  and  each  succeeding  stroke  made  the 
graceful  summit  and  the  clustering  fruit  jDiteously  tremble. 

"  The  ruthless  axe  that  hew'd  its  silvered  trunk 
Cut  loose  the  ties  that,  tendril-like,  had  bound 
My  love  uuto  the  tree ;  and  when  it  sunk. 
My  heart  sank  with  it  to  the  groiu  d." 

"AVoodman,  spare  that  tree," 

sung  by  the  voice  of  an  angel,  would  not  have  stayed  the  work  ot 
destruction ;  and  thus  the  prince  of  the  tropic  forest  fell  by  igno- 
minious hands.  Sr.  M.,  the  regicide,  went  that  morning  to  his 
toucinho  (bacon)  and  came  secca  establishment  in  the  Rua  do  Eosario, 


The  "Tigers"  of  Kio  de  Janeiro.  89 

congratulating  himself,  as  ho  stuffed  his  nostrils  with  areia  ])reta* 
that  he  had  gained  a  few  more  feet  of  sunshine  for  his  cabbage-bed, 
by  cutting  down  a  palm-tree  that  a  centur}^  would  not  reproduce. 
At  evening,  the  view  from  the  balcony  in  front  of  my  residence 
was  most  charming.  On  a  bright  night  the  heavens  were  illumined 
by  the  Southern  Cross,  by  Orion,  and  other  stellar  brilliants;  and 
sometimes,  when  clouds  obscured  the  lesser  celestial  lights,  the 
bosom  of  the  bay  seemed  like  a  sea  of  fire.  But  the  most  glorious 
nocturnal  sight  was  to  watch  the  full  moon  rise  above  the  palm- 
crowned  mountains  beyond  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  Xavier.  Mild 
rays  of  light  would  herald  the  approaching  queen,  and  soon  her 
full  round  form,  emerging,  threw  upon  the  distant  waters  of  Juru- 
juba  her  silver  sheen,  while  the  dashing  waves  that  burst  along 
the  whole  length  of  the  Praia  do  Flamengo  seemed  gorgeous 
wreaths  of  retreating  moonlight.  We  are  in  the  height  of  enjoy- 
ment.    Perhaps  we  murmur 

"  On  such  a  night  as  this,"  &c., 

and  speak  something  about  chaste  Dian  "moving  in  meditation, 
fancy  free,"  when  we  are  suddenly  brought  to  the  sad  realization 
that  we  are  in  a  sublunary  sphei'e.  We  rush  from  the  balcony 
spasmodically,  and  instantaneously  snatch  cologne-bottles,  bouquet, 
ammonia,  or  any  thing  that  will  relieve  our  olfactories.  The 
tigersf  also  have  opportunities  for  watching  the  moon  rise.  Eight 
o'clock  has  ari'ived,  and  these  odoriferous — not  to  say  savage — beasts 
come  stealthily  down  the  Rua  do  Principe,  and  for  the  next  two 
hours  make  night  hideous,  not  with  yells,  but  with  smells  which 
have  certainly  been  expatriated  from  Arabia  Infelix. 

A  curious  story  is  generally  told  the  newly-arrived  stranger  at 
Eio,  of  a  Fluminensian  who  on  a  visit  to  Paris  became  exceedingly 
ill.  Every  restorative  was  applied  in  vain,  until  a  French  physician 
well  acquainted  with  the  capital  of  Brazil  was  called  in,  and  decided 
at  once  that  it  was  impossible  to  hope  for  the  recovery  of  the 


*  Literally,  black  sand, — a  favorite  snuflf  made  in  Bahia. 

^  The  sewerage  of  Rio  was  formerly  very  defective,  and  slaves,  nicknamed 
"  tigers,"  conveyed  each  night  to  the  water's  edge  the  accumulated  oflFal  of  the  city, 
and  the  next  tide  swept  it  out  to  sea. 


90  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

patient  unless  he  could  breathe  again  his  native  air;  but,  as  he 
could  not  I'cturn  to  Eio,  the  physician  instantly  prescribed  that 
there  should  be  concocted  in  the  sick-chamber  a  compound  of  the 
most  "villanous  smells."  To  make  a  long  story  short,  the  invalid 
recovered ! 

But  at  the  date  of  writing  this  nuisance  is  much  more  tolerable 
than  formerly,  for  hermetically-sealed  casks  have  been  introduced, 
and  carts  during  daylight  collect  them,  and  their  contents  are  con- 
veyed to  some  very  distant  point  from  the  city.  Soon  Eio  will  have 
a  good  sj'Stem  of  sewerage,  the  plans  for  which  were  laid  before 
the  Minister  of  the  Emj^ire  in  1854.  When  this  is  accomplished, 
no  tropic  city  will  surpass  it  as  an  abode  both  healthful  and  agree- 
able.   1865,  "  Eio  City  Improvements  Company  "  is  doing  this  work. 

The  Praia  do  Flamengo,  saving  this  drawback  when  the  wind 
is  in  a  wrong  direction,  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  suburbs  for 
the  residence  of  a  foreigner.  One  hour  after  the  tigers  have 
finished  their  labors,  the  atmosphere  is  as  free  from  anj^  thing  dis- 
agreeable as  if  naught  but  the  fragrance  of  orange-flowers  had 
been  wafted  from  the  Gloria  and  the  neighboring  gardens;  and  the 
morning  light  shin^js  upon  a  pure  white  beach. 

For  tive  months  in  the  year  the  Praia  do  Flamengo  is  the 
favorite  resort  of  bathers  of  both  sexes.  During  the  bathing- 
season,  (from  K^ovember  to  March,)  a  lively  scene  is  witnessed 
every  morning.  Before  the  sun  is  above  the  mountains  a-  stream 
of  men,  women,  and  children  pour  down  to  enjoy  a  bath  in  the 
clear  salt  water.  The  ladies  who  come  from  a  distance  are  at- 
tended by  slaves,  who  bring  tents  and  spread  them  on  the  beach 
for  the  senhoras,  who  soon  put  on  their  bathing-robes  and  loose 
their  long  black  tresses.  Men  and  women,  hand  in  hand,  enter  the 
cool,  sparkling  element,  and  thus  those  not  skilled  in  natation 
resist  the  force  of  the  huge  waves  which  come  toppling  in.  The 
senhoras  are  neatly  dressed,  in  robes  made  of  some  dark  stuff;  but 
there  is  not  as  much  coquetry  as  in  a  French  watering-place,  where 
the  ladies  study  the  becoming  for  the  sea  as  well  as  for  the  ball- 
room. The  gentlemen  are  required  by  the  police-regulations  to 
be  decently  clad,  which  still  does  not  impede  those  who  prefer  a 
swimming-bath  to  the  douche  of  the  billows. 

It  is  a  merry  sight  to  behold  Brazilian  girls  and  boys  evincing  for 


The  Bathers  of  Praia  do  Flamengo.  91 

onco  some  activity, — nmnirig  on  tlio  saud,  and  screaming  with 
pleasure  whenever  a  heavier  wave  than  before  has  rollctl  over  a 
party  and  sends  them  reeling  to  the  beach.  The  prostrate  bathers 
drive  their  feet  convulsively  into  the  sand  to  prevent  being  carried 
back  by  the  receding  breakers.  Now  and  then  some  mischief- 
makers  shout  '*  Shark !  shark  I"  and  away  dash  the  senhoras  to 
the  shore,  to  be  laughed  at  by  the  urchins  who  raised  the  cry. 
There  are  some  traditionary  talcs  about  these  rough-skinned 
cannibals,  but  I  never  heard  a  well-authenticated  instance  of  a 
repast  furnished  by  the  bathers  of  Praia  do  Flamengo  to  the 
dreaded  "  wolf  of  the  seas." 

By  seven  o'clock  the  sun  is  high,  and  all  the  busy  white  throng 
have  departed.  Here  and  there,  however,  may  be  seen  a  curly 
head  popping  up  and  down  among  the  waves,  its  woolly  covering 
defying  the  fear  of  coup  de  soleil.  The  negresses  that  accompany 
the  ladies  generally  enter  the  water  at  the  same  time  as  their 
mistresses.  On  moonlight  nights  the  sea  is  alive  with  black 
specks,  which  are  the  capita  of  the  slaves  in  the  vicinity,  who 
splash  and  scream  and  laugh  to  their  hearts'  content.  They  all 
swim  remarkably  well,  and  it  is  pleasant  to  hear  their  cheerful 
voices  sounding  as  merrily  as  if  they  knew  not  a  sorrow. 

The  people  of  Rio  are  fond  of  bathing,  and  on  this  account  are 
called  cariocas,  which  some  translate  "ducks."  Many  walk  miles 
to  enjoy  it.  There  is  a  floating  bath  in  the  harbor,  not  far  from 
Hotel  Pharoux,  for  those  whose  courage  is  great  enough  to  brave 
the  element  which  is  there  called  sea-water,  but  which  a  truthful 
narrator,  previous  to  the  imj^roved  sewerage,  would  stigmatize  by 
another  name. 

Nor  are  the  bipeds  the  only  animals  that  derive  benefit  from  the 
ablutions  on  Praia  do  Flamengo.  The  horses  and  mules  have 
allotted  to  them  a  certain  portion  of  the  beach,  where  at  an  early 
hour  they  are  bathed  and  brushed.  It  is  a  comfort  to  know  that 
the  poor  creatures  have  this  chance  of  cleanliness;  otherwise  they 
would  suffer  greatly  from  the  laziness  of  their  keepers.  Gentlemen 
who  cai'e  for  their  horses  endeavor  to  procure  English  grooms,  for 
a  black  is  proverbially  a  bad  care-taker  for  any  animal.  The 
beautiful  horses  imported  at  great  exj^ense  from  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  are  soon  destroyed  under  the  hands  of  the  negroes.     It  is 


92  Bkazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

considered  that  the  climate  of  Brazil  is  unfavorable  to  them,  and 
one  can  hardly  believe  that  these  pamj^ered,  delicate  animals 
are  of  the  same  race,  half  English,  half  Arabian,  which  at  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope  will  endure  a  journey  of  sixty  or  seventy  miles  a 
day  without  other  refreshment  than  a  feed  of  oats  and  a  roll  on 
the  sand.*  For  all  useful  j)urj)Oses  the  horses  of  the  country  are 
better,  but  they  are  not  so  swift  or  graceful  as  the  imported  animals. 

It  was  but  a  few  paces  fi'om  my  front-door  to  the  southern 
entrance  of  the  Gloria.  Here,  when  the  surf  was  not  too  high, 
boats  could  land,  and  often  were  our  evenings  enlivened  by  the 
presence  of  some  of  the  intelligent  officers  from  the  men-of-war 
whose  station  was  beyond  the  Fortress  Villegagnon. 

Once  within  the  gateway  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  we  behold  a 
narrow,  level  strip  of  ground,  occupied  by  one  or  two  secluded 
residences  and  a  beautiful  private  flower-garden.  The  base  of  the 
black  rock  which  rises  perpendicularly  on  the  side  facing  the  sea  is 
hidden  by  large  waving  banana-trees  and  overhanging  creepers. 
The  diversified  summit  of  the  hill  is  checkered  with  every  evidence 
of  city  and  country  agreeably  blended.  Narrow  paths  wind 
around  the  hill  at  different  altitudes,  leading  to  the  many  beautiful 
residences  and  gardens  by  which  it  is  covered  to  the  summit.  On 
either  side  of  the  paths  are  seen  dense  hedges  of  flowering  mi- 
mosas, lofty  palms,  and  the  singular  cashew-tree,  with  its  bottle- 
shaped,  refreshing  fruit,  and  occasionally  other  large  trees,  hung 
with  splendid  parasites,  while  throughout  the  scene  there  prevails 
a  quiet  and  a  coolness  which  could  scarcely  be  anticipated  within 
the  precincts  of  a  city  situated  beneath  a  tropical  sun. 

The  prettiest  residence  on  the  hill  was  that  of  the  British  Consul, 
Mr.  John  J.  C.  Westwood, — a  gentleman  whom  I  always  found 
most  read}^  to  co-operate  in  any  work  of  charity  or  benevolence 
brought  to  his  notice.     In  1864  Mr.  Westwood  died. 

Among  the  dwellers  on  the  Gloria  were  two  families,  (English  and 
Swiss,)  who  in  their  tastes  and  accomplishments  were  far  beyond 
the  mere  shopkeeping  class  so  often  found  in  a  foreign  land.      In 

*  When  Napoleon  was  at  St.  Helena  he  was  supplied  with  these  horses,  and 
their  fire  exactly  suited  his  style  of  riding.  The  old  English  generals  whose  duty 
it  Tras  to  accompany  their  "  perverse  prisoner"  had  often  reason  to  complain  of 
the  pace  of  the  Cape  horses. 


EVENTNa-SCENE   ON   THE    GLORIA. 


tlicir  pleasant  society  one  was  often  compensated  for  the  homo- 
circlo  left  fur  over  the  billow.  The  Englishman  was  an  amateur- 
naturalist  of  the  very  first  ability,  while  both  families  possessed 
the  best  periodical  and  standard  literature  of  England  and  of 
France.  After  the  fatigues  of  the  day  it  was  a  delightful  rcci-ea- 
tion  to  spend  the  even- 
ing amid  such  compa- 
nions and  surrounded 
by  such  glorious  sce- 
nery. On  many  moon- 
light evenings  I  could 
enter  into  the  feelings 
entertained  by  Dr.  Kid- 
der years  before,  and, 
as  he  expressed  it, 
could  realize  "the  en- 
chantment of  an  even- 
inff-scene  so  felicitous- 
ly  described  by  Von 
Martius." 

"A  delicate  transpa- 
rent mist  hangs  over 
the  country;  the  moon 
shines  brightly  amid 
heavy  and  singularly- 
grouped  clouds.  The 
outlines  of  the  objects 
illuminated  by  it  are 
clear  and  well  defined, 

while  a  magic  twilight  seems  to  remove  from  the  eye  those  which 
are  in  the  shade.  Scarce  a  breath  of  air  is  stirring,  and  the  neigh- 
boring mimosas,  that  have  folded  up  their  leaves  to  sleep,  stand 
motionless  beside  the  dark  crowns  of  the  mangueiras,  the  jaca- 
tree,  and  the  ethereal  jambos.  Sometimes  a  sudden  wind  arises, 
and  the  juiceless  leaves  of  the  cashew  rustle;  the  richly-flowered 
grumijama  and  pitanga  let  drop  a  fragrant  shower  of  snow-white 
blossoms;  the  crowns  of  the  majestic  palms  wave  slowly  above  the 
silent  roof  which  they  overhang  like  a  symbol  of  peace  and  tran- 


FRUIT    AND    NUT    OF    THE    CASHEW-TREE. 


94  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

quillity.  Shrill  cries  of  the  cicada,  the  grasshopper,  and  tree-frog 
make  an  incessant  hum,  and  produce  by  their  monotony  a  pleasing 
melancholy.  At  intervals  different  balsamic  odors  fill  the  air,  and 
flowers,  alternately  unfolding  their  leaves  to  the  night,  delight  the 
senses  with  their  perfume, — now  the  bowers  of  paullinias,  or  the 
neighboring  orange-grove, — then  the  thick  tufts  of  the  eupatoria, 
or  the  bunches  of  the  flowering  palms,  suddenly  bursting,  disclose 
their  blossoms,  and  thus  maintain  a  constant  succession  of  fra- 
grance; while  the  silent  vegetable  world,  illuminated  by  swarms 
of  fire-flies  as  by  a  thousand  moving  stars,  charms  the  night  by  its 
delicious  odors.  Brilliant  lightnings  play  incessantly  in  the  horizon 
and  elevate  the  mind  in  joyful  admiration  to  the  stars,  which,  glow- 
ing in  solemn  silence  in  the  firmament,  fill  the  soul  with  a  presen- 
timent of  still  sublimer  wonders." 

Often,  while  enjoying  the  scene  which  the  great  German  natural- 
ist has  so  eloquently  depicted,  I  was  called  away  from  my  medita- 
tions by  the  clangor  of  the  bells  in  the  tower  of  the  Gloria  Church. 
Though  the  worship  of  Him  who  made  the  beautiful  nature  around 
me  should  be  ever  more  elevating  than  the  mere  contemplation  of 
the  grand  and  wonderful  in  the  material  world,  yet  the  sound  of 
those  bells  filled  me  with  painful  reflections.  Whenever  I  entered 
that  pretty  church  of  Nossa  Senhora  da  Gloria,  whenever  I  gazed 
upon  the  kneeling  throng  and  on  the  evidences  of  a  corrupted 
Christianity,  I  could  not  believe  that  God  was  worshipped  "in 
spirit  and  in  truth." 

In  the  interior,  the  octagonal  walls  are  lined  for  several  feet 
with  large  Butch  tiles,  representing  landscapes  and  scenes  con- 
nected with  classic  heathenism.  Actseon  and  his  dogs  start  the 
timid  deer,  or  pursue  the  flying  hare;  Cupid,  too,  with  arrows  in 
hand,  joins  the  sport.  Over  the  chief  altar  Nossa  Senhora  da 
Gloria,  robed  like  a  fashionable  lady  in  silks  and  laces,  looks  down 
upon  the  scene  beneath.  She  has  received  many  jewels  from  her 
devotees,  and  no  gem  is  esteemed  too  costly  to  win  her  favor. 
She  wears  brilliant  finger-rings,  and  diamond  buttons  fasten  the 
sleeves  of  her  gown.  Her  bosom  and  ears  are  graced  with  diamond 
necklaces  and  rich  pendants.  An  immense  diamond  brooch 
sparkles  on  her  breast:  this  was  vowed  to  the  Virgin  by  Bonna 
Francisca,  the  consort  of  Prince  de  Joinville,  in  prospective  compen- 


The  Marriage  of  Heathenism  and  Christianity.     95 

sation  for  the  restoration  of  Her  IIif):hness'8  health.  The  flowiiiir 
curls  that  cluster  around  Our  Lady's  bi'ow  are  also  offerings,  clipped 
by  some  anxious  mother  from  the  glossy  locks  of  a  faVorite  child.* 

Let  us  enter  the  vestry  in  the  rear  of  the  church.  Here  we 
behold  a  few  specimens  of  what  may  be  seen  in  every  church  in 
Brazil,  and  which  was  formerly  to  be  witnessed  in  almost  every 
heathen  temple  in  old  Italia  before  the  days  of  Constantine  the 
Great.  In  the  many  particulars  in  which  we  can  trace  with 
certainty  the  marriage  between  Christianity  and  heathenism,  none 
is  more  curious  than  the  system  of  ex  votos.  The  ancients  who 
were  affected  v.ith  ophthalmia,  rheumatism,  boils,  defective  limbs, 
&c.  &e.,  prayed  to  their  gods  and  goddesses  for  recovery,  and  at  the 
same  time  offered  on  the  shrine  of  the  favorite  divinity,  or  sus- 
pended near  the  altar,  votive  tablets,  upon  which  were  inscribed  a 
description  of  the  disease  and  the  name  of  the  invalid.  Grateful 
acknowldgements  and  miraculous  cures  were  also  thus  made 
public  for  the  edification  of  the  faithful  worshippers  and  for  the 
confusion  of  the  inci'edulous.  Thus,  also,  in  Brazil  every  church 
is  filled  with  votive  tablets,  telling  of  wonderful  cures  by  Nossa 
Senhora  and  innumerable  saints  with  very  hard  names. 

The  pious  pagans,  however,  did  not  limit  themselves  to  mere 
wi'itten  thanksgivings  and  descriptions  of  the  parts  affected,  but 
hung  up  in  their  temples  the  handiwork  of  their  mechanicians 
and  artists, — representations  in  painting  and  in  sculpture  of  hands, 
legs,  eyes,  and  other  portions  of  the  afflicted  body.  In  the  Gloria 
Church  also  may  be  seen  any  quantity  of  wax  models  of  arms, 
feet,  eyes,  noses,  bi-easts,  &c.  &c.  Where  the  disease  is  internal, 
and  the  seat  of  pain  cannot  well  be  modelled,  the  subject  is  gene- 


^  "  This  wooden  deosa  has  a  splendid  head  of  hair.     It  is  the  last  of  a  series  of 

rapes  of  locks  committed  on  her  account.     When  the  brother  of  Sr.  P.  L a,  a 

young  gentleman  of  my  acquaintance,  was  seven  years  old,  his  hair  reached  more 
than  half-way  down  his  back.  His  mother,  having  great  devotion  to  Nossa 
Senhora,  sheared  off  the  silken  spoils,  and  offered  them  as  an  act  of  faith  to  her, 
little  thinking  how  literally  she  was  copying  the  practice  of  heathen  dames.  The 
locks  were  sent  to  a  French  hairdresser,  who  wrought  them  into  a  wig.  It  was 
then  brought  to  the  church  and  laid  in  due  form  before  Our  Lady,  when  the  priest 
reverently  removed  her  old  wig  and  covered  her  with  the  flowing  tresses  of  the 
Larangeiras  Absalom." — Ewbank's  Sketches  of  Life  in  Brazil. 


96  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

ralized  by  representing  a  bedridden  patient:  peril  by  sea  i.s 
represented  by  a  sbipwreck.  All  proclaim  one  stor}^, — viz. :  the 
miraculous  cure  wrought  by  Nossa  Senhora  and  other  saints, 
through  the  ex  voto  offering. 

We  have  very  early  instances  of  the  same  mode  of  procedure 
among  the  heathen.  The  lords  of  the  Philistines,  who  had  seized 
in  battle  the  ark  of  the  Covenant,  were  with  their  people  smitten ; 
and,  when  returning  the  ark  to  the  children  of  Israel,  the  pagan 
Philistines  made  golden  ex  votos  to  accompany  their  dreadful  cap- 
tive: (1  Sam.  vi.  4.) 

Mr.  Ewbank,  who  appears  to  have  devoted  much  attention  to 
comparative  archaeology  and  mythology,  makes  the  following 
quotation  from  Tavernier,  one  of  the  early  Eoman  Catholic  travel- 
lers in  India: — "When  a  pilgrim  goes  to  a  jDagod  for  the  cure  of 
disease,  he  takes  with  him  a  figure  of  the  member  affected,  made 
of  gold,  silver,  or  copper,  and  offers  it  to  his  god."  In  the  second 
volume  of  Montfaucon  (also  a  Roman  Catholic  writer)  there  is  a 
long  account  of  ex  votos,  "some  of  which  were  offered  to  Neptune 
for  safe  voyages,  Serapis  for  health,  Juno  Lucina  for  children  and 
happy  deliveries  :  pictures  of  sick  patients  in  bed,  and  eyes,  heads, 
limbs,  and  tablets  without  number,  were  offered  to  Esculapius  and 
other  popular  medical  saints  among  the  heathen." 

This  sad  sj:)ectacle  of  modern  heathenism  at  Eio  de  Janeiro  is 
somewhat  ameliorated  by  the  fact  that,  whenever  the  ex  votos  are 
found  in  a  church  consecrated  to  ISTossa  Senhora  or  to  some  saint, 
the  offerings  are  mostly  brown  and  dusty  with  age.  Occasionally 
a  fresh  pair  of  eyes  or  breasts  are  to  be  seen,  but  new  wax  models 
are  less  frequent  in  the  caj)ital  than  formerly.  There  must,  how- 
ever, be  a  demand  for  them  from  some  portion  of  the  Empire;  for 
one-third  of  the  wax  and  tallow  chandlers  (where  these  objects  are 
obtained)  at  Eio  have  an  ex  voto  branch  in  their  manufactories. 
At  Tijuca,  Mr.  M.,  a  planter,  informed  me  that  he  had  just  seen  one 
of  his  neighbors  whose  arm  had  been  so  disabled  that  its  use  was 
lost,  until  he  was  advised  by  some  one  of  the  living  "saints"  to 
go  to  a  chandlery  and  purchase  a  wax  model  of  his  unruly  mem- 
ber to  offer  to  the  Virgin.  Suffice  to  say  the  arm  was  completely 
restored. 

On  the  Sabbath  I  often  passed  over  the  Gloria  Hill  on  my  return 


A  Sermon  in  Honor  of  Our  Lady.  97 

from  the  yhipping  or  ft-om  the  hospitals,  where  I  had  been  holding 
service  or  visitiu";  the  sick.  Durin";  a  festival  I  mounted  the 
hill  as  usual,  and  as  1  walked  beneath  the  broad  platform  upon 
which  the  church  stands,  I  heard  strains  of  music  that  were  most 
unlike  the  solemn  chants  and  the  grand  anthems  of  the  Eomish 
uumniunion.  They  were  polkas  and  dances,  performed  by  some 
mi'.itury  baud  that  had  been  hired  for  the  occasion  !  I  have  I'e- 
cently  been  informed  that  this  abuse,  as  well  as  some  others,  has 
been  remedied  through  the  direct  interposition  of  the  Emperor. 

Dr.  Kidder  thus  gives  an  account  of  some  of  the  religious  exer- 
cises at  the  Gloria,  which  is  applicable  to  Brazilian  church-services 
in  general : — 

"  Preaching  is  not  know^n  among  the  weekly  services  of  the 
church;  but  I  twice  listened  to  sermons  delivered  here  on  special 
occasions.  A  small  elevated  pulpit  is  seen  on  the  eastern  side  of 
the  edifice,  and  is  entered  from  a  hall  between  the  outer  and  inner 
walls  of  the  building.  In  this,  at  one  of  the  services  which 
occurred  during  Lent,  the  preacher  made  his  appearance  after 
mass  was  over.  The  people  at  once  faced  round  to  the  left  from 
the  principal  altar,  where  their  attention  had  been  previously 
directed.  The  harangue  was  passionatelj'  fervid.  In  the  midst  of 
it  the  speaker  paused,  and,  elevating  in  his  hand  a  small  wooden 
crucifix,  fell  on  his  knees,  and  began  praj'ing  to  it  as  his  Loi'd  and 
Master.  The  people,  most  of  whom  sat  in  rows  upon  the  floor, 
sprinkled  with  leaves,  bowed  down  their  heads,  and  seemed  to 
join  him  in  his  devotions.  He  then  proceeded,  and,  when  the 
sermon  was  ended,  all  fell  to  beating  their  breasts,  as  if  in  imita- 
tion of  tlie  publican  of  old. 

"In  the  second  instance,  the  discourse  was  at  the  annual  festa 
of  Our  Lady  of  the  Gloria,  and  was  entirely  eulogistic  of  her  cha- 
racter. One  of  the  most  popular  preachers  had  been  procured, 
and  he  seemed  quite  conscious  of  having  a  theme  which  gave  him 
unlimited  scope.  He  dealt  in  nothing  less  than  superlatives  : — 
'  The  glories  of  the  Most  Holy  Virgin  were  not  to  be  compared 
with  those  of  creatures,  but  only  with  those  of  the  Creator.' 
'She  did  every  thing  which  Christ  did  but  to  die  with  him.' 
'Jesus  Christ  was  independent  of  the  Father,  but  not  of  his 
mother.'     Such  sentiments,  rhapsodically  strung  together,  left  no 


98  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

place  for  the  mention  of  repentance  toward  God  or  faith  toward 
the  Lord  Jesus  Christ  throughout  the  whole  sermon." 

In  1852,  on  the  occasion  of  a  very  solemn  festival  in  honor  of 
Our  Lady,  one  of  the  most  eloquent  padres  of  Eio  was  ci,lled  upon 
to  pronounce  the  discourse  in  the  Church  of  Our  Lad}^  of  Mount 
Carmel,  which  adjoins  the  Lnpcrial  Chapel.  In  the  evening  of  the 
day  referred  to,  a  Eoman  Catholic  gentleman  gave  me  an  account 
of  the  sermon,  one  sentence  of  which  I  translate  for  the  benefit  of 
the  reader: — "The  magi  of  the  East  and  the  kings  of  the  Orient 
came  on  ijainful  journeys  from  distant  lands,  and,  prostrating 
themselves  at  the  feet  of  Nossa  Senhora,  offered  her  their  crowns 
for  the  bestowment  of  her  hand;  but  she  rejected  them  all,  and 
gave  it  to  the  obscure,  the  humble  but  pious  St.  Joseph  !" 

During  a  festival,  the  faithful  (and  othei's,  for  that  matter)  can 
obtain  any  amount  of  pious  merchandise,  in  the  shape  of  medidas 
and  hentinhos, — pictures,  images,  and  medals  of  saints  and  of  the 
Pope,  &c.  &c.  These  are  "exchanged" — never  sold — in  the 
church,  and  fetch  round  prices.  A  medida  is  a  ribbon  cut  the 
exact  height  of  the  presiding  Lady  or  saint  of  the  place  of  wor- 
ship. These,  worn  next  to  the  skin,  cure  all  manner  of  diseases, 
and  gratify  the  various  desires  of  the  happy  purchasers.  There 
are  certain  colors  esteemed  appropriate  to  different  JSTossas  Senhoras; 
and  once  I  ascertained  the  important  fact,  that,  when  some  pious 
Fluminense  has  made  a  vow  to  Nossa  Senhora,  great  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  permit  the  wrong  color  to  be  used.  A  lady-member 
of  my  family,  wishing  to  make  a  small  present  to  one  of  her  friends, 
— a  young  Eoman  Catholic  mother, — sent  a  neat  pink  dress  for  the 
little  one;  but  the  package  was  soon  returned,  with  many  regrets 
that  the  kind  offering  could  not  be  received,  for  a  vow  was  upon 
the  mother  which  had  particular  reference  to  her  child.  She  had 
vowed  to  a  Nossa  Senhora  (whose  favorite  colors  were  like  the 
driven  snow  and  the  heavens  above)  that  if  her  boy  recovered  from 
his  sickness  he  should  be  clothed  in  nothing  but  white  and  blue  for 
the  next  six  months !  At  the  end  of  that  time,  it  was  added,  the 
present  could  be  accepted. 

Bcntinhos  are  two  little  silken  pads  with  painted  figures  of  Our 
Lady,  &c.  upon  them.  These  are  worn  next  to  the  skin,  in  pairs, 
neing   attached  by  ribbons,  one  bentinho  resting  upon  the  bosom 


Brazilian  Pyrotechny.  99 

and  the  othoi  upon  the  back.  These  are  most  efficacious  for 
protecting  the  wearer  from  invisible  foes  both  before  and 
behind. 

I  visited  the  Gloria  Church  during  one  of  these  festivals,  and 
the  "  exchange"  of  pictures  and  medidas  was  immense.  The  price, 
ho'vever,  was  not  always  paid  in  money.  I  found  that  wax 
candles  offered  to  the  Virgin  were  esteemed  equal  to  copper  or 
silver  coin.  The  heat  and  crowd  of  the  church  on  this  occasion 
were  such  that  I  sought  the  esplanade  in  front;  and  the  contrast 
of  the  cool  night-air  and  the  sweet  odors  that  wafted  up  from  the 
gardens  beneath  was  as  agreeable  as  refreshing. 

The  multitude,  I  soon  ascertained,  were  not  confined  to  the 
church.  Groups  were  collected  around  the  fountain,  and  thou- 
sands were  congregated  in  the  ascent  called  the  Ladeira  da  Gloria, 
or  whiling  away  their  time  by  eating  doces,  smoking,  and  con- 
versing in  the  Largo.  They  were  awaiting  the  fireworks  which 
were  to  close  the  festival.  The  Brazilians  are  exceedingly  fond 
of  p3'rotechny,  and  every  festival  begins  and  ends  with  a  display 
of  rockets  and  wheels.  The  grand  finale  surpasses  any  thing  in 
this  line  that  is  ever  witnessed  in  North  America;  and  I  doubt 
if  there  is  a  single  country  in  the  world,  except  China,  whei-e 
pyrotechny  is  so  splendid  and  varied  as  in  Brazil.  Not  only  are 
there  wheels,  cones,  suns,  moons,  stars,  triangles,  polygons,  vases, 
baskets,  arches  with  letters  and  the  usual  devices  known  among 
us,  but,  elevated  upon  high  poles,  are  human  figures  as  large  as 
life,  I'epresenting  wood-sawyers,  rope-dancers,  knife-grinders,  bal- 
let-girls, and  whatever  vocation  of  life  calls  for  especial  activity. 
By  ingenious  mechanism  these  effigies  go  through  their  various 
pai-ts  with  remarkable  and  lifelike  celerity.  There  is  nothing 
gauche.  The  figures  are  well  dressed,  even  to  the  gloves  of  the 
represented  ladies.  The  wood-sawyer  makes  the  sparks  fl}^  and 
the  knife-grinder  whirls  a  wheel  that  sends  forth  a  perfect  "glory" 
of  scintillations  ! 

There  is  no  festa  throughout  the  year  that  is  more  enjoyed  by 
the  pleasure-loving  Fluminenses  than  that  of  Nossa  Senhora  da 
Gloria.  The  evening  before,  the  usual  number  of  rockets  are  sent 
up, — probably  to  arouse  the  attention  of  the  Virgin  to  the  honor 
that  is  about  to  be  paid  her  on  the  following  day,  lest,  in  the  mul- 


100  Braz;il  and  the  Brazilians. 

tiplicity  of  her  cares,  she  should  forget  the  approach  of  this  anni- 
versary ;  for  she  must  have  a  very  wonderful  memory  if  she  call 
to  mind  each  fete-day  at  which  her  esjiecial  company  is  requested, 
seeing  that  eveiy  fourth  church  in  Eio  is  dedicated  to  a  Nossa 
Senhora  of  some  kind. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  this  festival,  the  approach  to  the  white 
temple  is  crowded  with  devotees  in  their  gayest  attire;  for  there 
is  nothing  in  this  celebration  that  requires  the  usual  sombre  black. 
The  butterflies  themselves,  and  the  golden-breasted  humming-birds 
that  flit  among  the  opening  jessamines  and  roses  around,  are  not 
more  brilliant  than  the  senhoras  and  senhoritas  of  all  ages  who 
flutter  about,  robed  in  the  brightest  colors  of  the  rainbow,  and 
with  their  long  black  tresses  elaborately  dressed  and  adorned  with 
natural  flowers,  among  which  the  carnation  is  pre-eminent.  They 
enter  the  church  to  obtain  the  benefit  of  the  mass;  and  happy  they 
who  have  strength  and  lungs  and  nerve  enough  to  force  a  way 
up  to  the  altar  through  the  crowds  whom  nature  has  clad  in  per- 
petual mourning.  Once  arrived  at  this  desired  sjiot,  they  squat 
upon  the  floor,  and,  after  saying  their  prayers  and  hearing  mass, 
they  amuse  themselves  with  chatting  to  the  circle  of  beaux  who, 
on  such  occasions,  are  always  in  close  attendance  upon  the  fair 
objects  of  their  adoration.  For  be  it  remai'ked  that  most  of  the 
praying,  as  in  France,  is  done  by  the  women;  and  probably  for  that 
reason  each  man  is  anxious  to  secui-e  an  interest  in  the  affections 
of  some  fair  devotee,  in  order  that  she  may  supply  his  own  lack 
of  zeal. 

After  patiently  displaying  their  charms  and  their  diamonds  for 
some  hours,  a  thrill  of  excitement  passes  through  the  throng,  and 
salvos  of  artillery  announce  the  approach  of  the  Imperial  party, 
who,  when  the  weather  permits,  leave  their  carriages  at  the  foot 
of  the  hill,  and  slowly  ascend  the  steep  path  that  leads  to  the 
church.  This  has  been  previously  strewn  with  flowers  and  wild- 
cinnamon-leaves. 

On  some  occasions,  troups  of  young  girls  in  white,  from  the  dif- 
ferent boarding-schools,  are  in  waiting  at  the  top,  to  kiss  the  hands 
of  their  Majesties.  This  is  the  prettiest  part  of  the  exhibition, — 
the  Emperor,  with  his  stately  form,  and  the  Empress,  with  her 
good-humored  smile,  passing  slowly  through  the  lines  of  bright- 


The  Larangeiras.  101 

ejed  girls  who  arc  not  without  a  slight  idea  of  their  own  prominent 
part  in  the  graceful  group. 

After  the  ceremonial  in  the  chapel,  the  Imperial  party  descends 
to  the  house  of  Senhor  Bahia,  a  rich  Brazilian  banker,  who  has 
a  fine  house  hard  by,  where  a  splendid  collation  is  prepared, 
and  the  evening  is  terminated  by  fireworics  and  a  ball.  The 
pyrotechnic  display  is  on  the  road  opposite  his  house;  and  woe 
betide  any  unfortunate  wight  who  would  induce  a  spirited  horse  to 
pass  that  way.  There  is  no  other  road  into  the  city  from  Botafogo; 
so  that  he  may  as  well  take  a  philosophical  resolution,  and  enjoy,  as 
best  he  may,  thc'Catherine  wheels  and  the  fiery  maidens  pirouetting 
in  the  midst  of  surrounding  sparks. 

A  distinguishing  feature  of  these  gatherings  is,  that,  amid  all  the 
thousands  present,  no  scene  of  rudeness  or  quarrel  is  ever  witnessed. 
Perfect  good-nature  reigns  around;  and  if,  in  the  inevitable  pressure, 
any  person  is  trodden  upon  or  jostled,  an  instant  apology  is  made, 
with  the  hat  removed  from  the  head.  As  water  is  the  only  beverage, 
there  is  nothing  to  inflame  the  bad  passions  of  the  multitude.  The 
slaves  ai'e  not  merely  respectful  in  their  manners,  but  evince  a 
joyous  sense  of  liberty  for  the  day;  and  they  ambitiously  seek  the 
best  places  for  sight-seeing,  which  their  less  active  masters  in  vain 
wish  to  attain. 

At  midnight  all  is  over,  and  the  quiet  stars  shine  down  upon 
the  church -crowned  and  verdure-robed  Gloria. 

When  we  descend  the  Ladeira  da  Gloria  and  turn  to  our  left,  we 
are  in  a  finely -paved — and  in  some  places  macadamized — thorough- 
fare called  the  Catete,  a  wide  and  important  street,  leading  from 
the  city  to  Botafogo.  About  half-way  between  the  town  and  the 
last-mentioned  suburb,  we  enter  the  Largo  Machado,  which  is  the 
commencement  of  the  Larangeiras,  or  the  valley  of  orange-groves. 
There  were  formerly  many  trees  of  the  Laranga  da  terra,'^  or  native 
orange,  in  this  lovely  spot;  and,  although  the  most  of  them  have 
disappeared,  their  places  have  been  filled  with  their  sweeter  rela- 
tives, the  Laranga  selecta,  and  the  night-air  is  laden  with  the  rich 
perfume  of  their  flowers.     Some  of  the  prettiest  gardens — which, 

*  GardDer  is  of  the  opinion  that  the  Laranga  da  terra,  or  bitter  orange,  is  not 
indigenous. 


102 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


instead  of  thick  stone  walls,  are  surrounded  by  open  iron  railing 
—  and  the  most  beautiful  residences  in  Rio  nestle  in  this  quiet 
valley. 

A  shallow  but  limpid  brook  gurgles  along  a  wide  and  deep  ravine, 
lying  between  two  precipitous  spurs  of  the  Corcovado  Mountain. 
Passing  up  its  banks,  you  see  scores  of  lavandeiras,  or  washer- 
women, standing  in  the  stream  and  beating  their  clothes  upon  the 

boulders  of  rock  which  lie 
scattered  along  the  bot- 
tom. Many  of  these 
washerwomen  go  from  the 
city  early  in  the  morning, 
carrj'ing  their  huge  bun- 
dles of  soiled  linen  on 
their  heads,  and  at  even- 
ing return  with  them,  puri- 
fied in  the  stream  and 
bleached  in  the  sun.  Fires 
are  smoking  in  various 
places,  where  they  cook 
their  meals;  and  groups 
\\\  iiTN  of  infant  children  are  seen 
^  \^^y///S\i  pl^yiiig  around,  some  of 
:^^^lji/  whom  are   large   enough 

have     toddled     after 


to 

their  mothers;   but  most 
of  them  have  been  carried 
there    on    the    backs   of 
the  heavily-burdened  ser- 
vants.    Female  slaves,  of  every  occupation,  may  be  seen  carry- 
ing about  their  children  as  on  page  167;  but  the  lavandeiras  no 
longer  work  in  a  semi-nude  state. 

One  is  reminded  by  their  appearance  of  the  North  American 
Indian  pappoose  riding  on  the  mother's  back;  but  the  diflcrent 
methods  of  fastening  the  respective  infants  in  permanent  positions 
pi"oduce  very  different  effects.  The  straight  board  on  which  the 
young  Indian  is  lashed  gives  him  his  proverbially-erect  form;  but 
the  curved  posture  in  which  the  young  negro's  legs  are  bound 


LAVANDEIRAS. 


The  Ascension  of  the  Corcovado.  103 

around  the  sides  of  tlio  mother  often  entails  upon  liim  crooked 
limbs  for  life. 

Up  the  valley  of  the  Larungeiras  is  a  mineral  spring,  which  at 
certain  seasons  of  the  year  is  much  frequented.  It  is  denominated 
Agoa  Ferrea, — a  name  indicating  the  chalybeate  properties  of  the 
water.  Near  this  locality  you  may  enter  the  road  which  leads  up 
the  Corcovado. 

An  excursion  to  the  summit  of  this  mountain  is  one  of  the  first 
that  should  be  made  by  every  visitor  to  Eio.  You  may  ascend  on 
horseback  within  a  short  distance  of  the  summit;  and  the  jaunt 
should  be  commenced  early  in  the  morning,  while  the  air  is  cool 
and  balmy,  and  while  the  dew  yet  sparkles  on  the  foliage.  The 
inclination  is  not  very  steep,  although  the  path  is  narrow  and 
uneven,  having  been  w^orn  by  descending  rains.  The  greater  part 
of  the  mountain  is  covered  with  a  dense  forest,  which  varies  in 
character  with  the  altitude,  but  everywhere  abounds  in  the  most 
rare  and  luxurious  plants.  Toward  the  summit  large  trees  become 
rare,  while  bamboos  and  ferns  are  more  numerous.  Flowering 
shrubs  and  parasites  extend  the  whole  way. 

I  once  made  the  excursion  in  company  with  a  few  fi-iends. 
Our  horses  were  left  at  a  rancho  not  far  from  the  summit,  and 
a  few  minutes'  walk  brought  us  through  the  thicket.  Above  this 
the  rocks  are  covered  with  only  a  thin  soil,  and  here  and  there  a 
shrub  nestling  in  the  crevices.  What  appears  like  a  point  from 
below  is  in  reality  a  bare  rock,  of  sufficient  dimensions  to  admit 
of  fifty  persons  standing  on  it  to  enjoy  the  view  at  once,  although 
its  sides,  save  that  from  which  it  is  reached,  are  extremely  pre- 
cij^itous.  In  order  to  protect  persons  against  accidents,  iron  posts 
have  been  inserted,  and  railings  of  the  same  material  extend 
around  the  edge  of  the  rock.  This  has  been  done  at  the  expense 
of  the  Government.  If  we  except  this  slight  indication  of  art,  all 
around  exhibits  the  wildness  and  sublimity  of  nature. 

The  elevation  of  the  mountain — twenty-three  hundred  and  six 
feet — is  just  sufficient  to  give  a  clear  bird's-eye  view  of  one  of  the 
richest  and  most  extensive  prospects  the  human  eye  ever  beheld. 
The  harbor  and  its  islands;  the  forts,  and  the  shipping  of  the  bay; 
the  whole  city,  from  S.  Christovao  to  Botafogo;  the  botanical 
garden,  the  Lagoa   das   Freitas,  the  Tijuca,  the  Gavia,  and  the 


104  Brazil  and  the  Erazilians. 

Sugar-Loaf  Mountains,  the  islands  outside  the  harbor,  the  wide- 
rolling  ocean  on  the  one  hand  and  the  measureless  circle  of 
mountains  and  shores  on  the  other,  were  all  expanded  around  and 
beneath  us.  The  atmosphere  was  beautifully  transparent,  and  I 
gazed  and  gazed  M'ith  increasing  interest  upon  the  lovely,  the 
magnificent  panorama. 

From  the  sides  of  this  mountain  various  small  streamlets  flow 
toward  the  Larangeiras.  Bj^  means  of  artificial  channels,  these  are 
thrown  together  to  supply  the  great  aqueduct.  In  descending,  we 
followed  this  remarkable  watercourse  until  we  entered  the  city,  at 
the  grand  archway  leading  from  the  Hill  of  Santa  Theresa  to  that 
of  San  Antonio,  as  depicted  on  page  63,  Nor  is  this  section  of  the 
route  less  interesting  to  those  fond  of  nature.  From  time  to  time 
negroes  are  met,  waving  their  nets  in  chase  of  the  gorgeous  butter- 
flies and  other  insects  which  may  be  seen  fluttering  across  the 
path  and  nestling  in  the  surrounding  flowers  and  foliage. 

Many  slaves  were  formei'ly  trained  from  early  life  to  collect  and 
preserve  specimens  in  entomology  and  botany,  and,  by  following 
this  as  a  constant  business,  gathered  immense  collections.  These 
are  favorite  haunts  for  amateur  naturalists,  who,  if  imbued  with  the 
characteristic  enthusiasm  of  their  calling,  may  still  find  them  as 
interesting  as  did  Yon  Spix  and  Yon  Martins,  whose  learned  works 
upon  the  natural  history  of  Brazil  may  be  compared  with  those 
of  Humboldt  and  Bonpland  in  Mexico  and  Colombia. 

The  aqueduct  is  a  vaulted  channel  of  mason-work,  passing  some- 
times above  and  sometimes  beneath  the  surface  of  the  ground,  with 
a  gentle  declivity,  and  air-holes  at  given  distances.  The  views  to 
be  enjoyed  along  the  line  of  this  aqueduct  are,  beyond  measure, 
interesting  and  varied.  Now  j^ou  look  down  at  jonr  right  upon 
the  valley  of  the  Larangeiras,  the  Largo  do  Machado,  the  Catete, 
the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  and  the  ocean;  anon,  verging  toward  the 
other  declivit}^  of  the  hill,  j^ou  may  survey  the  Campo  St.  Anna, 
the  Cidade  Nova,  the  splendid  suburb  of  Engenho  Yelho,  and,  in 
the  distance,  the  upper  extremity  of  the  bay,  surrounded  by  moun- 
tains and  dotted  by  islands.  At  length,  just  above  the  Convent 
of  Santa  Theresa,  you  will  pause  to  contemplate  a  fine  view  of  the 
town.  But  for  the  Hill  of  S.  Antonio  and  the  Morro  do  Castcllo 
the  greater  poi'tion  of  the  city  would  here  be  seen  at  once.     The 


' 


liECOLI  ECTIONS   OF    Sr.  DOMINGOS   LoPEZ.  105 

glimpse,  however,  that  is  perceptible  between  these  eminences  Is 
perhaps  sufficient,  and  the  eye  rests  with  peculiar  pleasure  upon 
this  unusually-happy  combination  of  the  objects  of  nature  and 
of  art. 

Probably  no  city  in  the  world  can  compare  with  Rio  de  Janeiro 
in  the  variet}'  of  sublime  and  interesting  scenery  in  its  immediate 
vicinity.  The  semicircular  Bay  of  Botafogo  and  the  group  of 
mountains  surrounding  it  form  one  of  the  most  picturesque  views 
ever  beheld.  We  are  on  the  Corcovado;  before  us  stands  the 
far-famed  Sugar-Loafj  and  far  behind  us  appears  an  immense 
truncated  cone  of  granite.  When  seen  at  a  distance,  this  mountain 
is  thought  to  resemble  the  foretopsail  of  a  vessel,  and  hence  its 
name,  the  Gavia.  Between  this  and  the  Sugar-Loaf  remains  a 
group  of  three,  so  much  jesembling  each  other  as  to  justify  the 
name  of  Dons  Irmaos,  or  Two  Brothers.  The  head  of  one  of  the 
brothers  stretches  above  his  juniors,  and  also  looks  proudly  down 
upon  the  ocean  which  laves  his  feet.  At  the  base  of  the  Sugar-Loaf 
is  Praia  Vermelha,  a  fertile  beach,  named  from  the  reddish  color  of 
the  soil.  It  extends  to  the  fortress  of  S.  Joao  on  the  right,  and  to 
that  of  Praia  Vermelha  on  the  left,  of  the  Sugar-Loaf.  The  latter 
is  a  prominent  station  for  new  recruits  to  the  army;  and  many  are 
the  poor  Indians  from  the  Uj^per  Amazon  who  have  here  been 
drilled  to  the  use  of  arms.  This  also  was  the  scene  of  a  bloody 
revolt  of  the  German  soldiery  in  the  time  of  the  First  Emperor, 

The  beach  of  the  ocean  outside  the  Sugar-Loaf  is  called  Copa 
Cabana.  A  few  scattered  huts  of  fishermen  and  a  few  ancient 
dwellings  belonging  to  proprietors  of  the  land  accommodate  all  the 
present  inhabitants  of  this  locality.  Once  it  used  to  be  far  more 
populous,  according  to  the  recollections  of  Senhor  Domingos 
Lopez, — a  garrulous  sexagenarian  with  whom  Dr.  Kidder  became 
acquainted  on  one  of  his  visits  there,  and  who  detailed  to  him  the 
monstrous  changes  that  had  transpired  since  his  boyhood,  when 
the  site  of  S.  Francisco  de  Paula  was  a  frog-pond,  and  all  the  city 
beyond  it  not  much  better,  although  built  up  to  some  extent  with 
low,  mean  houses.  The  sand  of  this  beach  is  white,  like  the  surf 
which  dashes  upon  it.  Whoever  wishes  to  be  entertained  by  the 
low  but  heavy  thunder  of  the  waves,  as  they  roll  in  from  the  green 
Atlantic,  cannot  find  a  more  fitting  spot;    and  he  that  has  once 


106  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

enjoyed  the  sublime  companionship  of  the  waves,  that  here  rush  to 
■pay  their  homage  at  his  feet,  ^Aill  long  to  revisit  the  scene. 

In  beholding  the  Sugar-Loaf  for  the  first  time,  I  was  seized  with 
an  almost  irresistible  desire  to  ascend  its  sum^iit.  This  wish  was 
never  carried  into  action.  As  my  country nien,  however,  have 
shared  largely  in  this  species  of  ambition,  I  shall  be  more  ex- 
cusable. 

It  is  said  by  some,  that  a  Yankee  midshipman  first  conceived 
and  executed  the  hazardous  project  of  climbing  its  rocky  sides. 
Nevei'theless,  this  honor  is  disputed  by  others  in  behalf  of  an 
Austrian  midshipman.  Belonging  to  whom  that  ma}^,  it  was  re- 
served for  Donna  America  Vespucci,  in  1838,  to  be  the  first  lady 
who  should  attempt  the  exploit ;  but  the  Donna  failed  to  accomplish 
what  her  ambitious  mind  determined.  Several  persons  of  both  sexes 
have,  since  this  failure,  made  the  attempt,  and,  at  the  peril  of  life 
and  limb,  some  have  succeeded  in  scrambling  to  the  verj'  top.  On 
the  4th  of  July,  1851,  Burdell,  an  American*  dentist,  accompanied 
by  his  wife,  a  French  coiffeur  et  sa  dame,  and  a  young  Scotch- 
woman, made  the  ascent.  From  the  latter  I  received  an  account 
of  that  adventurous  night,  when  at  times  they  seemed  ready  to 
dash  into  the  foaming  ocean  beneath.  Their  toil  and  danger  were 
of  no  small  magnitude,  and,  when  success  finally  crowned  their 
foolhardiness,  thej^  sent  up  rockets  and  built  a  bonfire,  to  the  asto- 
nishment of  the  gazing  Fluminenses.  The  last  ascent  of  this  sin- 
gular mountain,  which  is  almost  as  steep  as  Bunker  Hill  Monument, 
was  performed  by  a  young  American,  who,  without  a  companion 
or  the  usual  appliances  and  skill  of  a  seafiiring  man,  worked  his 
way  up  to  the  very  summit,  under  the  full  blaze  of  a  burning  sun. 
He  was,  however,  so  disgusted  with  his  adventure,  that  he  begged 
his  friends  never  to  mention  the  subject. 

Note  for  1SG6. — Great  amelioration  in  the  condition  of  the  streets  has  taken 
place  since  1855.  This  is  owing  to  a  better  system  of  paving,  the  stone  for  tbo 
pavement  being  quarried  from  the  liills  that  abound  in  the  city.  The  Rio  City 
Improvements  Company,  against  great  natural  obstacles,  are  now  prosecuting  the 
sewerage  of  the  capital,  whicli,  when  completed,  will  render  Rio  the  finest  city  of 
the  tropics.  Nor  should  we  overlook  the  Government  works  and  docks,  under 
the  direction  of  Charles  Neat,  Esq.,  in  front  of  the  Custom-House,  on  the  island 
of  Cobras,  and  elsewhere.  One  of  Mr.  Neat's  efficient  aids  is  Mr.  Bullman,  of 
Newcastle,  England,  to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  meteorological  notes. 


CHAPTER  Yll. 

BRCTIIERHOODS HOSPITAL    OF    SAN    FRANCISCO    DE    PAULA THE    LAZARTTS    AND    THE 

RATTLESNAKE MISERICORDIA  —  SAILORS'    HOSPITAL    AT   JURir.HTBA FOUNDLING- 
HOSPITAL BECOLHIMEXTO     FOR     ORPHAN-GIULS NEW     MISERICORDIA \SYLUM 

FOR       THE       INSANE JOs£       D'aNCHIETA,      FOUNDER      OF      THE      MISERICORDIA 

MONSTROUS     LE'JENDS     OF     THE    ORDER FRIAR    JOHN     d' ALMEIDA CHURCHES 

CONVENTS. 

To  turn  from  the  contemplation  of  nature  to  the  works  of  man 
is  not  always  the  most  pleasing  transition ;  and  Bisliop  lleber's 
well-known  and  oft-cited  lines — 

"  Though  every  prospect  pleases, 
And  only  man  is  vile" — 

seem  doubly  true  in  South  America,  where  the  grand  and  the 
beautiful  are  so  wonderfull}^  profuse  and  in  such  strong  contrast 
with  the  shortcomings  of  earth's  last  -and  highest  creature.  But 
the  philanthropy  and  practical  Christianity  embodied  in  the  hos- 
pitals of  Eio  de  Janeiro  are  in  happy  dissimilitude  with  the 
mummeries  and  puerilities  which  the  Raman  Catholic  Church  has 
fostered  in  Brazil.  These  institutions,  in  their  extent  and  effi- 
ciency, command  our  highest  respect  and  admiration. 

Among  the  hospitals  of  the  capital  there  are  a  number  which 
belong  to  different  Irmandades  or  Brotherhoods.  These  fraternities 
are  not  unlike  the  beneficial  societies  of  England  and  the  United 
States,  though  on  a  more  extended  scale.  They  are  generally 
composed  of  laymen,  and  are  denominated  Third  Orders, — as,  fcr 
example,  Ordem  Terceiro  do  Carmo,  Da  Boa  Morte,  Do  Bom  Jesus 
do  Calvario,  &c.  They  have  a  style  of  dress  approaching  the  cleri- 
cal in  appearance,  which  is  worn  on  holidays,  with  some  distin- 
guishing mark  by  which  each  association  is  known.  A  liberal 
entrance-fee  and  an  annual  subscription  is  required  of  all  the  mem- 
bers, each  of  whom  is  entitled  to  support  from  the  general  fund  in 

107 


108  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

sickness  and  in  poverty,  and  also  to  a  funeral  of  ceremony  when 
dead.  The  brotherhoods  contribute  to  the  erection  and  support 
of  churches,  provide  for  the  sick,  bury  the  dead,  and  support 
masses  for  souls.  In  short,  next  after  the  State,  they  are  the  most 
efficient  auxiliaries  for  the  support  of  the  religious  establishment 
of  the  country.  Many  of  them,  in  the  lapse  of  years,  have  become 
ricli  by  the  receipt  of  donations  and  legacies,  and  membership  in 
Kuch  is  highly  prized. 

The  extensive  private  hospital  of  S.  Francisco  de  Paula  belongs 
to  a  brotherhood  of  that  name.  It  is  located  in  an  airy  position, 
and  built  in  the  most  substantial  manner.  Each  patient  has  an 
alcove  allotted  to  him,  in  which  he  receives  the  calls  of  the  phy- 
sician and  the  necessarj'^  care  of  attendants.  When  able  to  walk, 
he  has  long  corridors  leading  round  the  whole  building,  in  which 
he  may  promenade,  or  from  the  windows  enjo}'^  the  air  and  a  sight 
of  surrounding  scenes.  There  are  also  sitting-rooms  in  which  the 
convalescent  members  of  the  fraternity  meet  to  converse. 

The  Hospital  dos  Lazaros  is  located  at  St.  Christovao,  several 
miles  from  the  city,  and  is  entirely  devoted  to  persons  afflicted 
with  the  elephantiasis  and  other  cutaneous  diseases  of  the  leprous 
type.  Such  diseases  are  unhappily  very  common  at  Eio,  where  it 
is  no  i-are  thing  to  see  a  man  dragging  about  a  leg  swollen  to  twice 
its  proper  dimensions,  or  sitting  with  the  gangrened  member  ex- 
posed as  a  plea  for  charity.  The  term  "elephantiasis"  is  derived 
from  the  enormous  tumors  which  the  affection  causes  to  arise  on 
the  lower  limbs,  and  to  hang  down  in  folds  or  circular  bands, 
making  the  parts  resemble  the  legs  of  an  elephant.  The  deformity 
is  frightful  in  itself;  but  the  prevailing  belief  that  the  disease  is 
contagious  imparts  to  the  beholder  an  additional  disgust. 

It  was  an  act  of  true  benevolence  by  which  the  Conde  da  Cunha 
appropriated  an  ancient  convent  of  the  Jesuits  to  the  use  of  a 
hospital  for  the  treatment  of  these  cases.  It  was  placed,  and  has 
since  remained,  under  the  supervision  of  the  Irmandade  do  Santis- 
simo  Sacramento.  The  average  number  of  its  inmates  is  about 
eighty.  Few  in  Avhom  the  disease  is  so  far  advanced  as  to  require 
their  removal  to  the  hospital  ever  recover  from  it.  Not  long  since 
a  person  pretended  to  have  made  the  discovery  that  the  ele- 
phantiasis of  Brazil  was  the  identical  disease  which  was  cured 


Elephantiasis  and  the  Rattlesnake.  109 

among  the  ancient  Greeks  by  the  bite  of  a  rattlesnake.  lie  pub- 
lished several  disquisitions  on  the  subject,  and  thus  awakened 
public  attention  to  his  singular  theory.  An  opportunity  soon 
offered  for  testing  it.  An  inmate  of  the  hospital,  who  had  been  a 
subject  of  the  disease  for  six  3'ears,  resolved  to  submit  himself  to 
the  hazardous  experiment. 

A  day  was  fixed,  and  several  physicians  and  friends  of  the  parties 
were  present  to  Avituess  the  result.  The  afflicted  man  was  fifty 
years  old,  and,  either  from  a  confident  anticipation  of  a  cure,  or 
from  despair  of  a  happier  issue,  was  impatient  for  the  trial.  The 
serpent  was  brought  in  a  cage,  and  into  this  the  jDaticnt  introduced 
his  hand  with  the  most  perfect  jjresence  of  mind.  The  reptile 
seemed  to  shrink  from  the  contact,  as  though  there  was  something 
in  the  part  which  neutralized  its  venom.  When  touched,  the  ser- 
pent would  even  lick  the  hand  without  biting.  It  became  neces- 
sary at  length  for  the  patient  to  grasp  and  squeeze  the  reptile 
tightl}',  in  order  to  receive  a  thrust  from  his  fangs.  The  desired 
infliction  was  at  length  given,  near  the  base  of  the  little  finger. 

So  little  sensation  pervaded  the  member  that  the  patient  was 
not  aware  he  was  bitten  until  informed  of  it  by  those  who  saw  the 
act.  A  little  blood  oozed  from  the  wound,  and  a  slight  swelling 
appeared  when  the  hand  was  withdi'awn  from  the  cage;  but  no 
pain  was  felt.  Moments  of  intense  anxiety  now  followed,  while 
it  remained  to  be  seen  whether  the  strange  application  would  issue 
for  the  better  or  for  the  worse.  The  effect  became  gradually 
manifest,  although  it  was  evidently  retarded  by  the  disease  which 
had  preoccupied  the  system.  In  less  than  twenty-four  hours  the 
Lazarus  w^as  a  corj)se  1 

The  most  extensive  hospital  in  the  city,  and  indeed  in  the  Em- 
pire, is  that  called  the  Santa  Casa  da  Misericordia,  or  the  Holy  Housa 
of  Mercy.  This  establishment  is  located  upon  the  sea-shore,  under 
the  brow  of  the  Castello  Hill,  and  is  open  day  and  night  for  t'le 
reception  of  the  sick  and  distressed.  The  best  assistance  in  the 
power  of  the  administrators  to  give  is  here  rendered  to  all,  male 
and  female,  black  or  white.  Moor  or  Christian, — none  of  whom, 
even  the  most  wretched,  are  under  the  necessity  of  seeking  influ- 
ence or  recommendations  in  order  to  be  I'eceived. 

From  the  statistics  of  this  establishment  it  appears  that  more 


110 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


than  seven  thousand  patients  are  annually  received,  of  whom  more 
than  one  thousand  die. 

In  this  hospital  are  treated  vast  numbers  of  English  and 
American  seamen,  the  subjects  of  sickness  or  accident  on  their 
arrival,  or  during  their  stay  in  the  port.  There  are  few  nations 
of  the  world  which  are  not  represented  among  the  inmates  of  the 
Misericordia  of  Eio  de  Janeii'o.  Free  access  being  always  granted 
to  its  halls,  they  furnish  an  ample  and  interesting  field  for  benevo- 
lent exertions  in  behalf  of  the  sick  and  dying. 


THE     JURUJUBA      HOSPITAL. 


The  years  1850,  '51,  '52,  and  '53  were  those  of  great  mortality 
among  foreigners  on  account  of  the  first  and  only  known  visit  of 
the  yellow  fever  to  Eio  de  Janeiro  and  the  coast  of  Brazil.  The 
number  of  deaths  among  the  natives  was  much  exaggerated,  and 
in  no  portion  of  the  Empire  was  the  mortality  ever  so  great  as  in 
those  parts  of  the  United  States  which  have  so  often  been  visited 
by  the  same  disease.     In  1854,  '55,  and  '50,  no  cases  of  the  yellow 


The  Yellow  Fever  Hospital  at  Jurujuba.         Ill 

fever  occurred,  and  its  appearance  and  disappearance  have  been 
equally  mysterious.  The  reader  curious  in  such  matters  will  find 
this  subject  treated  in  the  appendix.    (Dr. P.Candidodied  in  1864.) 

New  hospitals  were  arranged  for  the  reception  of  foreign  mari- 
ners stricken  down  with  this  fell  malady;  but  none  have  been  so 
well  appointed,  so  well  regulated,  and  so  eminently  successful,  as 
the  hospital  at  Jurujuba,  under  the  supervision  of  an  able  medical 
committee,  of  which  Dr.  Paulo  Candido  was  the  chief  The  prin- 
cipal visiting  and  attending  ph^'sician  was  Dr.  Correo  de  Azcvedo, 
a  gentleman  of  great  affability  and  experience,  speaking  ten  differ- 
ent languages  with  fluency,  and  who  was  a  universal  favorite  among 
his  patients  from  all  parts  of  the  world.  Every  day  during  the 
year  the  little  steamer  "Constancia,"  bearing  the  physician  and  his 
assistants,  passes  through  the  entire  shipping,  receiving  the  sick, 
and  then  transports  them  to  the  southern  shores  of  the  St.  Xavier's 
or  Jurujuba  Bay.  The  hospital  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  perpetual 
verdure,  and  whei'e  the  ocean  and  land  breezes  are  uncontaminated 
by  the  many  impurities  of  a  vast  city.  Here  are  excellent  and 
kind  nurses,  who  co-operate  with  the  physicians  in  promoting  the 
recovery  of  the  invalids.     Dr.  Azevedo  now  resides  at  Theresopolis. 

Jurujuba  Hospital  was  for  me  a  place  of  frequent  visitation 
during  the  prevalence  of  the  dreaded  yellow  fever.  How  many  a 
poor  wayfarer  of  the  deep  have  I  seen  here  and  on  shipboard,  for 
away  from  country,  home,  and  relatives,  go  dowm  to  the  grave! 
How  often,  too,  have  I  witnessed  the  power  of  that  "  hope  which 
maketh  not  ashamed,"  as  I  have  caught  from  dying  lips  the  last 
loving  messages  sent  to  a  distant  father,  mother,  or  sister,  or  as  I 
have  listened  to  the  triumphant  hymn  which  proclaimed  the  vic- 
tory over  the  last  foe  to  man ! 

Although  there  was  free  transit  to  all  who  wished  to  go  to  the 
liospital,  I  never  met  a  single  Brazilian  or  Portuguese  priest  in  my 
many  visits  to  Jurujuba.  It  could  not  be  pleaded  in  extenuation 
that  it  was  an  institution  for  English  and  American  mariners,  for  a 
very  large  proportion  were  Portuguese,  Spanish,  French,  and 
Italian  sailors.  The  only  Eoman  Catholic  ecclesiastic  of  any 
grade  that  I  ever  saw  at  Jurujuba  was  one  of  the  devoted  Italian 
Capuchins  who  seem  at  Rio  to  be  ever  on  errands  of  mercy, 
through  tropic  heats  and  rains,  while  the  lazy,  lounging,  greasy, 


112  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

acclimated  frades  of  San  Antonio,  San  Bento,  and  of  Carmo,  live 
at  ease  in  their  huge  conventual  buildings,  situated  in  the  loveliest 
and  healthiest  portions  of  the  city. 

Before  the  erection  of  Jurujuba  Hospital  nearly  all  the  necessitous 
foreicrn  invalids  were  accommodated  in  the  Misericoi"dia. 

The  benevolence  of  this  latter  hospital  is  not  confined  to  those 
within  its  infirmaries,  but  extends  to  the  different  prisons  of  the 
city,  most  of  whose  inmates  receive  food  and  medicines  from  the 
provisions  of  the  Misericordia. 

Besides  the  public  hosjHtal,  the  institution  has  another  for  found- 
lings, and  a  Recolhimento,  or  Asylum  for  Female  Orphans.  The 
Foundling-Hospital*  is  sometimes  called  Casa  da  Roda,  in  allusion 
to  the  wheel  in  which  infants  are  dej)Osited  from  the  streets  and 
by  a  semi-revolution  conveyed  within  the  walls  of  the  building. 
This  wheel  occupies  the  place  of  a  window,  facing  the  thorough- 
fare, and  revolves  on  a  perpendicular  axis.  It  is  divided  by  par- 
tition into  four  triangular  apartments,  one  of  which  always  opens 
without,  thus  inviting  the  approach  of  any  who  may  be  so  heartless 
as  to  wish  to  part  with  their  infant  children.  They  have  only  to 
deposit  the  foundling  in  the  box,  and  by  a  turn  of  the  wheel  it 
passes  within  the  walls,  they  themselves  going  away  unobserved. 

That  such  institutions  are  the  offspring  of  a  mistaken  philan- 
thropy is  as  evident  in  Brazil  as  it  can  be  in  any  country.  Not 
only  do  they  encourage  licentiousness,  but  the}''  foster  the  most 
palpable  inhumanity.  Out  of  three  thousand  six  hundred  and 
thirty  infants  exposed  in  Eio  during  ten  years  anterior  to  1840, 
only  one  thousand  and  twenty-four  were  living  at  the  end  of  that 
period.  In  the  year  1838-39,  four  hundred  and  forty-nine  were 
deposited  in  the  wheel,  of  whom  six  were  found  dead  when  taken 
out;  many  expired  the  first  day  after  their  arrival,  and  two  hun- 
dred and  thirty-nine  died  in  a  short  period. 

The  report  of  the  Minister  of  the  Empire  for  the  official  year 
1854-55  gives  the  following  alarming  statistics  and  the  comments 
of  the  minister  : — 


*  The  Foundling-Hospital  was  formerly  the  large  three-story  building  seen  on 
the  right-hand  side  of  the  "View  of  the  Gloria  Hill  from  the  Terract  of  the 
Passeio  Publico."     The  hospital  is  now  in  the  Rua  dos  Barbonas. 


Foundling  Hospital  and  Misericordia.  113 

"In  1854,  588  infants  were  received,  in  addition  to  68  already  in 
the  establishment.     Total,  656:  died,  435;  remaining,  221. 

"In  1853,  the  number  of  foundlings  received  was  630,  and  of 
deaths  515.(!) 

<' There  was,  therefore,  less  mortality  in  the  past  than  in  the 
former  year.     Still,  the  number  of  deaths  is  frightfid. 

"  U])  to  the  present  time  it  has  not  been  possible  to  ascertain  the 
exact  causes  of  this  lamentable  mortality,  which  with  more  or  less 
intensity  always  takes  place  among  such  infants,  notwithstanding 
the  utmost  effort  and  care  that  has  been  used  to  combat  the  evil." 

Well  might  one  of  the  physicians  of  the  establishment,  in  whose 
company  a  gentleman  of  my  acquaintance  visited  several  depart- 
ments of  the  institution,  remark,  "Monsieur,  c'est  une  boucherie!" 

What  must  be  the  moral  condition  or  the  humane  feelings  of 
those  numerous  persons  who  deliberately  contribute  to  such  an  ex- 
posure of  infant  life?  One  peculiar  circumstance  connected  with 
this  state  of  things  consists  in  the  alleged  fact  that  many  of  the 
foundlings  are  the  offspring  of  female  slaves,  whose  masters,  not 
wishing  the  trouble  and  expense  of  endeavoring  to  raise  the  chil- 
dren, or  wishing  the  services  of  the  mothers  as  wet-nurses,  require 
the  infants  to  be  sent  to  the  engeitaria,  where,  should  they  survive, 
they  of  course  are  free.  A  large  edifice  for  the  accommodation  of 
foundlings  is  being  erected  on  the  Largo  da  Lapa. 

The  Asylum  for  Female  Orphans  is  a  very  popular  establishment. 
It  is  chiefly  supplied  from  the  Foundling-Hospital.  The  institution 
not  onl}"  contemplates  the  protection  of  the  glials  in  its  care  during 
their  more  tender  j-ears,  but  provides  also  for  their  marriage,  and 
confers  on  them  dowries  of  from  two  to  four  hundred  milreis  each. 
On  the  2d  of  July,  every  year,  when  the  Eomish  Church  cele- 
brates the  anniversary  of  the  Visitation  of  St.  Elizabeth,  by  pro- 
cessions, masses,  and  the  like,  this  establishment  is  thi'own  open  to 
the  public,  and  is  thronged  with  visitors,  (among  whom  are  their 
Imperial  Majesties,)  some  of  whom  bi'ing  presents  to  the  recolhidas, 
and  some  ask  for  them  in  marriage. 

The  new  buildings  of  the  Misericordia  are  upon  a  grand  scale,  and 
the  view  of  it  to  those  entering  the  harbor  is,  architecturally  con- 
sidered, truly  magnificent.  It  is  constructed  of  stone,  and  is  six 
hundred  feet  in  length.     There  is  only  the  half  of  the  immense 


114 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


structure  presented  to  the  eye  as  we  look  at  the  sketch  below,  en- 
graved from  a  daguerreotj'pe;  and  the  reader  will  be  astonished  at 
the  size  of  this  noble  beneficiary  edifice  when  he  is  informed  that 
it  is  a  double  building,  and  that  its  twin-brother  is  in  the  rear  of 
it;  but  it  is  so  connected  as  to  form  several  airy  quadrangular 
courts.  With  its  modern  improvements,  insuring  superior  ventila- 
tion, light,  and  cleanliness, — with  its  flower-gardens  and  shrubberies 
for  the  recreation  and  exercise  of  the  convalescent, — with  its  cool 


St  Luziis 


Morro  do  Cadteiio.  Arsenal  of  War. 


MISERICORDI  A. 


fountains,  its  spacious  apartments,  kind  attendants,  and  beautifui 
situation, — this  hospital  is,  as  has  been  well  said,  "a  credit  to  the 
civilization  of  the  age,  and  a  splendid  monument  of  the  munifi- 
cence and  benevolence  of  the  Brotherhood  of  Mercy." 

The  Lunatic  Asylum,  or,  as  it  is  officially  called,  the  Hospicio  de 
Pedro  II.,  situated  on  the  graceful  Bay  of  Botafogo,  is  a  splendid, 
fiilace-like  structure,  inaugurated  in  1852.  The  accommodation 
for  the  insane  is  here  upon  a  scale  of  comfort  and  splendor  only 
equalled  by  the  Misericordia,  whose  noble  dome  lifts  itself  above 


Jose  de  Anchieta.  115 

the  Praia  da  Santa  Luzia.  The  French  Sisters  of  Charity  are  the 
nurses  here  as  well  as  in  the  house  of  the  Brothers  of  Mercy.  The 
Emperor,  after  whom  the  hospital  at  Botafogo  is  named,  is  one  of 
its  most  liberal  supporters. 

The  annual  expenses  of  the  Misericordia  are  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  dollars.  A  small  portion  of  its  receipts  are  pro- 
vided for  by  certain  tributes  at  the  Custom-House,  another  portion 
by  lotteries,  and  the  balance  by  donations  and  the  rent  of  properties 
which  belong  to  the  institution  through  purchase  and  legacies 
The  Foundling-Hospital  and  Eecolhimento  have  been  in  existence 
about  a  hundred  years.  The  original  establishment  of  the  Miseri- 
cordia dates  back  as  far  as  1582,  and  took  place  under  the  auspices 
of  that  distinguished  Jesuit,  Jose  de  Anchieta.  About  that  time 
there  arrived  in  the  port  a  Spanish  armada,  consisting  of  sixteen 
vessels-of-war,  and  having  on  board  three  thousand  Spaniards, 
bound  to  the  Straits  of  Majellan.  During  the  voyage  very  severe 
storms  had  been  experienced,  in  which  the  vessels  had  suffered 
greatly,  and  sickness  had  extensively  broken  out  on  board.  An- 
chieta was  at  the  time  on  a  visit  to  the  college  of  his  order,  which 
had  been  founded  some  years  previously,  and  whose  towei'S  still 
surmount  the  Castello  Hill.  Moved  by  compassion  for  the  suffering 
Spaniards,  he  made  arrangements  for  their  succor,  and  in  so  doing 
laid  the  foundation  of  an  institution  which  has  continued  to  the 
present  day  enlarging  its  charities  and  increasing  its  means  of 
alleviating  human  suffering. 

It  is  impossible  to  contemplate  the  results  of  such  an  act  of 
philanthropy  without  a  feeling  of  respect  toward  its  author. 
How  many  tens  of  thousands,  during  the  lapse  of  moi*e  than  two 
hundred  and  fifty  years,  have  found  an  asylum  within  the  walls  of 
the  Misericordia  of  Rio  de  Janeiro, — how  many  thousands  a  grave ! 
Anchieta  was  among  the  first  Jesuits  sent  out  to  the  New  World, 
and  his  name  fills  a  large  spa-ce  in  the  history  of  that  order.  His 
earlier  labors  were  devoted  to  the  Indians  of  S.  Paulo,  and  along 
that  coast,  where  he  endured  great  privations  and  exerted  a  power- 
ful influence;  but  he  finally  returned  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  and  there 
ended  his  days. 

His  self-denial  as  a  missionary,  his  labor  in  acquiring  and  method- 
izing a  barbarous  language,  and  his   services  to  the   State,  were 


116  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

sufficient  to  secure  to  him  an  honest  fame  and  a  precious  memory; 
but  in  the  latter  part  of  the  ensuing  century  he  was  made  a  candi 
date  for  saintship,  and  his  real  virtues  were  made  to  pass  for  little 
in  comparison  with  the  power  by  which  it  was  pretended  that  he 
had  wrought  miracles.  Simon  de  Yasconcellos,  Provincial  of 
Brazil,  and  historian  of  the  province,  composed  a  narrative  of 
his  life,  which  is  one  of  the  greatest  examples  of  extravagance 
extant. 

It  may  be  interesting  to  pass  from  the  Santa  Casa  da  Misericor- 
dia,  so  happily  associated  with  his  name,  up  the  steep  paved  walk 
which  leads  to  the  old  Jesuits'  College  on  the  Morro  do  Castello, 
where  Anchieta  died.  Here  we  may  contemplate  the  huge  anti- 
quated structure,  which,  although  long  since  pei'verted  from  its 
original  use,  remains,  and  is  destined  to  remain  perhaps  for  ages 
to  come,  a  monument  of  the  wealth  and  power  of  the  order 
founded  by  Ignatius  de  Loyola,  whose  name  the  college  bore. 

It  is  sickening  to  turn  our  attention  from  the  good  which 
Anchieta  did,  to  the  absurd  inventions  in  regard  to  the  founder  of 
the  Misericordia  after  he  had  been  for  a  hundred  years  slumbering 
in  the  tomb.  It  is  only  one  of  those  monstrous  legends  invented 
by  the  priests,  approved  by  the  Inquisition,  and  ratified  by  the 
church,  which  were  for  centuries  palmed  off  upon  the  cxedulity  of 
the  people,  as  a  means  of  advancing  the  interests  and  the  renown 
of  rival  monastic  orders. 

Mr.  Southey  remarks: — ''It  would  be  impossible  to  say  which 
order  has  exceeded  the  others  in  Europe  in  this  rivalry,  each 
having  carried  the  audacity  of  falsehood  to  its  utmost  bounds;  hut 
in  Brazil  the  Jesuits  bore  the  palm." 

Of  this  few  will  doubt  who  read  the  following.  "Some,"  says 
Vasconcellos,  "have  called  him  [Anchieta]  the  second  Thauma- 
tourgos;  others,  the  second  Adam, — and  this  is  the  fitter  title; 
because  it  was  expedient  that,  as  there  had  been  an  Adam  in  the 
Old  World,  there  should  be  one  in  the  New,  to  be  the  head  of  all 
its  inhabitants  and  have  authority  over  the  elements  and  animals 
of  America,  such  as  the  first  Adam  possessed  in  Paradise. 

"  There  were,  therefore,  in  Anchieta,  all  the  powers  and  graces 
with  which  the  first  Adam  had  been  endoAved,  and  he  enjoyed 
them  not  merely  for  a  time,  but  during  his  whole  life;  and  for  this 


The  Wonderful  Gifts  of  Anchieta.  117 

reason,  like  our  common  father,  he  was  born  with  innocence, 
impassibility,  an  enlightened  mind,  and  a  right  will. 

'^ Dominion  was  given  him  over  the  elements  and  all  that  dwell 
therein.  The  earth  brought  forth  fruit  at  his  command  and  even 
gave  np  the  dead,  that  they  might  be  restored  to  life  ai  d  receive 
baptism  from  his  hand.  The  birds  of  the  air  formed  a  canopy 
over  his  head  to  shade  him  from  the  sun.  The  fish  came  into  his 
net  when  he  required  them.  The  wild  beasts  of  the  forest  attended 
him  in  his  journeys  and  served  him  as  an  escort.  The  winds  and 
waves  obej'ed  his  voice.  The  fire,  at  his  pleasui*e,  undid  the  mis- 
chief which  it  had  done,  so  that  bread  Avhich  had  been  burnt  to  a 
cinder  in  the  oven  was  drawn  out  white  and  soft  by  his  inter- 
ference. 

"He  could  read  the  secrets  of  the  heart.  The  knowledge  of 
hidden  things  and  sciences  was  imparted  to  him;  and  he  enjoyed 
daily  and  hourly  ecstasies,  visions,  and  revelations.  He  was  a 
Baint,  a  prophet,  a  worker  of  miracles,  and  a  vice-Christ;  yet  such 
was  his  humilit}^,  that  he  called  himself  a  vile  mortal  and  an  igno- 
rant sinner. 

"  His  barret-cap  was  a  cure  for  all  diseases  of  the  head.  Any 
one  of  his  cilices,  [wire  shirts,]  or  any  part  of  his  dress,  was  an 
efficacious  remedy  against  impure  thoughts.  Water  poured  ovei 
one  of  his  bones  worked  more  than  two  hundred  miracles  in  Per- 
nambuco,  more  than  a  thousand  in  the  South  of  Brazil;  and  a 
few  drops  of  it  turned  water  into  wine,  as  at  the  marriage  in 
Galilee.  Some  of  his  miracles  are  commended  as  being  more 
fanciful  and  in  a  more  elegant  taste  [sicl  than  those  which  are  re- 
corded in  the  Scriptures." 

The  book  in  which  these  assertions  are  made,  and  which  is 
stuffed  with  examples  of  every  kind  of  miracles,  was  licensed  by 
the  various  censors  of  the  press  at  Lisbon, — one  of  whom  declares, 
that,  as  long  as  the  publication  should  be  delayed,  so  long  would  the 
faithful  be  deprived  of  great  benefit,  and  God  himself  of  glory! 

The  same  author,  who  has  collected  and  attested  all  the  fables 
which  credulity  and  ignorance  had  propagated  concerning  Anchieta, 
has  produced  a  far  more  extraordinary  history  of  Friar  Joam 
d' Almeida,  his  successor  in  sanctity.  It  was  written  immediately 
after  Almeida's  death,  when  the  circumstances  of  his  life  Avere  freth 


118  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

in  remembrance,  and  too  soon  for  the  embellishment  of  machinery 
to  be  interwoven. 

This  remarkable  person,  whose  name  appears  originally  to  have 
been  John  Martin,  was  an  Englishman,  born  in  London  during  the 
reign  of  Elizabeth.  In  the  tenth  year  of  his  age  he  was  kidnapped 
by  a  Portuguese  merchant,  apparently  for  the  purpose  of  preserving 
him  in  the  Catholic  faith;  and  this  merchant,  seven  years  after- 
ward, took  him  to  Brazil,  where,  being  placed  under  tho  care  of 
the  Jesuits,  he  entered  the  company. 

Anchieta  was  his  superior,  then  an  old  man,  broken  down  with 
exertion  and  austerities  and  subject  to  frequent  faintings.  Almeida 
used  to  rub  his  feet  at  such  times,  in  reference  to  which  he  was 
accustomed  to  say  that,  whatever  virtue  there  might  be  in  his 
hands,  he  had  taken  it  from  the  feet  of  his  master.  No  volup- 
tuary ever  invented  so  many  devices  for  pampering  the  senses  as 
Joam  d' Almeida  did  for  mortifying  them.  He  looked  upon  his 
body  as  a  rebellious  slave,  who,  dw^elling  within-doors,  eating  at 
his  table,  and  sleeping  in  his  bed,  was  continually  laying  snares 
for  his  destruction;  therefore  he  regarded  it  with  the  deepest 
hatred,  and,  as  a  matter  of  justice  and  self-defence,  persecuted, 
flogged,  and  punished  it  in  every  imaginable  way.  For  this  pur- 
l^ose  he  had  a  choice  assortment  of  scourges, — some  of  whipcord, 
some  of  catgut,  some  of  leathern  thongs,  and  some  of  wire.  He 
had  cilices  of  wire  for  his  arms,  thighs,  and  legs,  one  of  Avhich  was 
listened  around  the  body  with  seven  chains;  and  another  he  called 
his  good  sack,  which  was  an  under- waistcoat  of  the  roughest  horse- 
hair, having  on  the  inside  seven  crosses  made  of  iron,  the  surface 
of  which  was  covered  with  sharp  points,  like  a  coarse  rasp  or  a  nut- 
meg-grater. Such  was  the  whole  armor  of  righteousness  in  which 
this  soldier  of  Christ  clad  himself  for  his  battles  with  the  infernal 
enemy.  It  is  recorded  among  his  other  virtues  that  he  never  dis- 
turbed the  mosquitos  and  fleas  when  they  covered  him;  that,  what- 
ever exercise  he  might  take  in  that  hot  climate,  he  never  changed 
his  shirt  more  than  once  a  week;  and  that  on  his  journeys  he  put 
pebbles  or  grains  of  maize  in  his  shoes. 

His  daily  course  of  life  was  regulated  in  conformity  to  a  paper 
drawn  up  by  himself,  wherein  he  promised  "to  eat  nothing  on 
Mondays,   in  honor  of  the  Trinity, — to  wear  one  of  his  cilices, 


Friar  Joam  d'Almeida.  119 

according  to  the  disposition  and  strength  of  the  poor  beast,  as  he 
called  his  body,  and  to  accompan}'  it  Avith  the  customary  fly- 
flapping  of  his  four  scourges,  in  love,  reverence,  and  remembrance 
of  the  stripes  which  our  Saviour  had  suflFered  for  his  sake.  Tues- 
days, his  food  was  to  be  bread  and  water,  with  the  same  dessert,  to 
the  praise  and  glory  of  the  archangel  Michael,  his  guardian  angel, 
and  all  other  angels.  AVednesdays,  he  relaxed  so  far  as  only  to 
follow  tl^^e  rule  of  the  company.  On  Thursdays,  in  honor  of  the 
Holy  Ghost,  the  most  holy  sacrament,  St.  Ignatius  Loyola,  the 
apostles,  and  all  saints,  male  and  female,  he  ate  nothing.  Fridays, 
he  was  to  bear  in  mind  that  the  rules  of  his  order  recommended 
fasting,  and  that  he  had  forsworn  wine  except  in  cases  of  neces- 
sity. Saturday,  he  abstained  again  from  all  food,  in  honor  of  the 
Virgin,  and  this  abstinence  was  to  be  accompanied  with  whatever 
might  be  accei^table  to  her;  whereby  exercises  of  rigor  as  well  as 
prayer  were  implied.  On  Sundays,  as  on  Wednesdays,  he  observed 
the  rules  of  the  community." 

The  great  object  of  his  most  thankful  meditations  was  to  think 
that,  having  been  born  in  England,*  and  in  London,  in  the  very 
seat  and  heart  of  heresy,  he  had  been  led  to  this  happy  way  of  life. 
In  this  extraordinary  course  of  self-torment,  Friar  Joam  d'Almeida 
attained  the  great  age  of  fourscore  and  two.  "When  he  was  far 
advanced  in  years,  his  cilices  and  scourges  were  taken  from  him 
lest  they  should  accelerate  his  death ;  but  from  that  time  he  was 
observed  to  lose  strength,  as  if  his  constitution  was  injured  by  the 
change  :  such  practices  were  become  necessary  to  him,  like  a  per- 
jDctual  blister,  without  which  the  bodily  system,  having  been  long 
accustomed  to  it,  could  not  continue  its  functions.  He  used  to 
entreat  others,  for  the  love  of  God,  to  lend  him  a  whip  or  a  cilice, 
exclaiming,  "What  means  have  I  now  wherewith  to  appease  the 
Lord  ?  What  shall  I  do  to  be  saved  ?"  Such  are  the  works  which 
a  corrupt  church  has  substituted  for  faith  in  Christ  and  for  the 
duties  of  genuine  Christianity. 

Nor  must  this  be  considered  as  a  mere  case  of  individual  mad- 
ness.    While  Almeida  lived,   he  was  an  object  of  reverence  and 

*  On  one  side  of  his  portrait  is  the  figure  of  England,  on  the  other  that  of  Brazil, 
and  under  them  these  words: — "  Hinc  Anglus,  hinc  Angelus." 


120  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

admiration,  not  only  to  the  common  people  of  Eio  de  Janeiro,  but 
to  persons  of  all  ranks.  His  excesses  were  in  the  spirit  of  his  reli- 
gion, and  they  were  recorded  after  his  death  for  edification  and 
example,  under  the  sanction  of  the  Superiors  of  an  order  which  al 
that  time  held  the  first  rank  in  the  estimation  of  the  Eoman 
Catholic  world. 

During  his  last  illness  the  convent  was  crowded  with  persona 
who  wei'e  desirous  to  behold  the  death  of  a  saint.  Nothing  else 
was  talked  of  in  the  city,  and  the  Fluminenses  accosted  each  other 
with  condolences  as  for  some  public  calamity.  Solicitations  were 
made  thus  early  for  scraps  of  his  writing,  rags  of  his  garments  or 
cilices,  and,  indeed,  any  thing  which  had  belonged  to  him;  and 
the  poi'ter  was  fully  employed  in  receiving  and  delivering  beads^ 
cloths,  and  other  things  which  devout  persons  sent,  that  they 
might  be  applied  to  the  body  of  the  djnng  saint  and  imbibe  from 
it  a  healing  virtue.  He  was  bled  during  his  illness,  and  every  drop 
of  the  blood  was-  carefully  received  upon  cloths,  which  were  divided 
as  relics  among  those  who  had  most  interest  in  the  college. 

When  the  bell  of  the  college  announced  his  death,  the  whole 
city  was  as  greatly  agitated  as  if  the  alarm  of  an  invasion  had  been 
given.  The  governor,  the  bishop-administrator,  the  magistrates, 
nobles,  clergy,  and  religious  of  every  order,  and  the  whole  people, 
hastened  to  his  funeral.  Every  shop  was  shut.  Even  the  crijoples 
and  the  sick  were  carried  to  the  ceremony.  Another  person  died 
at  the  same  time,  and  it  was  with  great  difficult}^  that  men  could 
be  found  to  bear  the  body  to  the  grave.    ■ 

An  official  statement  of  the  proceedings  of  the  day  was  drawn 
up,  to  be  a  perpetual  memorial;  and  the  admiration  of  the  people 
for  Friar  Joam  d'Almeida  was  so  great,  especially  in  Eio  de  Janeiro, 
that  they  used  his  relics  in  diseases  with  as  much  faith  as  if  he  had 
been  canonized,  and  with  as  much  success.  For  a  while  they  in- 
voked no  other  saint,  as  if  they  had  forgotten  their  former  objects 
of  devotion  ! 

The  practical  rules  of  our  Saviour,  in  the  Sermon  on  the  Mount, 
in  regard  to  cheerfulness  and  absence  of  ostentation  in  religion,  are 
very  far  from  coinciding  with  the  above  practices;  and  one  would 
judge  that  there  was  no  need  of  a  Mediator  for  the  man  who  thus 
worked  out  his  own  salvation. 


Churches,  Chapels,  and  Convents.  121 

There  are  within  the  city  of  Rio  and  its  suburbs  about  fifty 
churches  and  chapels.  They  are  generally  among  the  most  costly 
and  imposing  edifices  of  the  country,  although  many  of  them  have 
but  little  to  boast  as  regards  either  plan  or  finish.  They  may 
be  found  of  various  form  and  style.  Some  are  octagonal,  some  are 
in  the  form  of  the  Roman  and  some  of  the  Grecian  cross,  Avhile 
others  are  merely  oblong.  The  Church  of  the  Candelaria*  was 
originally  designed  to  be  a  cathedral  for  the  diocese  of  Rio  de 
Janeiro.  It  was  commenced  about  seventy  years  ago,  but  is  not 
yet  entirely  finished.  Like  nearly  every  other  building  for  eccle- 
siastical purposes  in  the  country,  it  stands  as  a  memento  of  past 
generations.  The  erection  of  a  new  church  in  Brazil  is  not  an 
event  of  frequent  occurrence. 

The  chapels  of  the  convents  are  in  several  instances  larger,  and 
probably  more  expensive,  than  any  of  the  churches.  That  of  the 
Convent  of  San  Bentof  is  one  of  the  most  ancient,  having  been 
repaired,  according  to  an  inscription  it  bears,  in  1671.  The  exte- 
rior of  the  edifice  is  rude  but  massive ;  its  windows  are  heavily 
barred  with  iron  gratings,  more  resembling  a  prison  than  a  place 
of  worship.  The  sides  of  the  chapel  are  crowded  with  images  and 
altars.  The  roof  and  ceiled  walls  exhibit  paintings  designed  to 
illustrate  the  historj^  of  the  patron  .  saint,  the  relics  of  whose 
miracles  are  here  carefully  preserved.  Unnumbered  figures  of 
angels  and  cherubs,  carved  in  wood  and  heavily  gilded,  look  down 
upon  you  from  every  corner  in  which  they  can  be  fastened  :  in 
fact,  nearly  the  whole  interior  is  gilt.  The  order  of  the  Bene- 
dictines is  by  for  the  richest  in  the  Empire,  possessing  houses  and 
lands  of  vast  extent,  though  the  number  of  monks  is  at  present 
quite  small.  In  the  convent  pi'oper,  a  large  square  area  is  sur- 
rounded by  corridors  open  on  one  side,  and  exhibiting  the  doors 
of  the  several  dormitories  of  the  monks  on  the  other.  An  accessible 
apartment  is  devoted  to  the  library,  composed  of  about  six  thou- 
sand volumes.     The  sombre   and  melancholy  air  which  pervades 

*  The  tall  spires  of  this  church  may  be  seen  in  the  general  "View  of  Rio  de 
Janeiro  from  the  Island  of  Cobras,"  rising  above  the  right  of  the  central  palm-tree. 

f  The  turrets  of  this  convent  are  those  seen  farthest  to  the  right,  in  the  "  View" 
referred  to  in  the  note  above. 


122 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


this  monastic  pile  is  in  perfect  contrast  with  the  splendid  scene  to 
be  enjoyed  in  front  of  it,  and  with  the  neat  and  modern  appear- 
ance of  the  Naval  Ai'senal,  located  at  the  foot  of  the  eminence  on 
which  it  stands.* 

A  striking  peculiarity  in  the  aspect  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  is  derived 
from  the  circumstance  that  all  the  most  elevated  and  commanding 

sites  of  the  city  and  its 
vicinity  are  occupied  by 
churches  and  convents. 
Of  these  may  be  next  men- 
tioned the  Convent  of 
St.  Anthony,  a  mendicant 
order,  whose  shovel-hat 
monks,  although  sworn  to 
eternal  poverty,  have  con- 
trived to  obtain  a  very 
valuable  site  and  to  erect 
a  most  costly  edifice.  The 
building,  since  they  can  pos- 
sess nothing  themselves, 
belongs, very  convenientlj", 
to  the  Pope  of  Rome.  In 
it  are  two  immense  cha- 
pels and  a  vast  cloister, 
with  scarcely  enough  fi'iars 
to  keep  them  in  order. 

On  a  hill  opposite  that 
of  S.  Antonio  is  the  nun- 
nery of  Santa  Theresa,  occupying  a  situation  more  pictures(pie, 
perhaps,  than  that  of  either  of  the  monasteries  mentioned;  and 
yet,  as  if  to  render  the  appearance  of  the  building  as  offensive  as 
possible  in  the  midst  of  scenery  ever  breathing  the  fragrance  of 
opening  flowers  and  smiling  in  beauty,  its  contracted  windows  are 


FRADES     OF      ST.    ANTHONY. 


*  On  the  island  of  Cobras,  nearly  opposite  the  Convent  of  S.  Bento,  is  an  im- 
mense copper  ring  near  the  water's  edge,  put  down  by  the  celebrated  Captain 
Cook  in  his  last  voyage. 


The  Lady  Boarders  of  Ajuda  Convent.     123 

not  only  barred  with  iron  gratings,  but  even  these  gratings  are  set 
with  bristling  spilces. 

The  Convent  of  Nossa  Senhora  da  Ajuda,  which  is  overlooked 
from  the  Hill  of  Santa  Theresa,  completes  the  list  of  monastic  insti- 
tutions in  the  capital  of  Brazil.  In  this  last-mentioned  were  for- 
merly- many  inmates'  who  had  not  taken  the  veil.  The  jealousy 
of  the  Portuguese  and  their  descendants  was  such,  that  in  other 
years  it  was  not  uncommon  for  a  gentleman,  when  making  a  visit 
to  the  mother-country,  to  incarcerate — or,  more  politely,  "procure 
lodgings"  for — his  wife  in  the  convent,  where  she  remained  during 
his  entire  absence.  I  have  understood  that  this  shameful  practice 
has  been  forbidden  by  the  present  Emperor.  The  monasteries  may 
all  be  considered  unpopular,  and  could  never  again  be  erected  at 
any  thing  like  their  pi-esent  expense. 

The  churches  of  all  descriptions  are  generally  open  every  morn- 
ing. At  this  time  masses  are  said  in  most  of  them.  Ordinarily 
but  few  persons  arc  in  attendance,  and  these  are  principally  women. 
Upon  the  great  holidays,  several  of  which  occur  during  Lent,  the 
churches  are  thronged,  and  sermons  are  occasionally  delivered; 
but  nothing  like  regular  preaching  on  the  Sabbath  or  any  other  day 
is  known  in  any  part  of  the  country. 

Note  for  1SG6. — As  the  subject  of  health  is  mentioned  in  connection  with  hos- 
pitals in  this  chapter,  I  add  that  I  haye  been  deeply  interested  in  the  report  for 
18G-i  of  the  sanitary  condition  of  the  Empire,  published  by  the  President  (Dr. 
J.  P.  Piegos)  of  the  Junta  Central  de  Hygiene  Publica.  It  shows  that,  under  the 
wise  and  skilful  treatment  of  the  Brazilian  faculty,  cholera  and  the  yellow  fever 
have  almost  entirely  disappeared  from  Brazil.  I  am  indebted  to  Dr.  Manoel 
Pacheco  da  Silva,  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  for  this  valuable  pamphlet.  Brazil  has  suf- 
fered the  greatest  medical  loss  by  the  death  of  Dr.  Paulo  Candido,  who  did  more 
than  any  other  man  to  make  and  publish  close  observations  in  regard  to  the  epi- 
demics of  his  country.  He  died  at  Paris  in  1864;  and  his  loss  was  felt  in  the 
eminent  medical  circles  of  Europe  as  much  as  in  Brazil. 


CHAPTEE  VIII. 

ILLUMINATION    OF    THE     CITY EARLY    TO    BED — POLICE — GAMBLING    AND    LOTTERIES 

MUNICIPAL  GOVERNMENT VACCINATION BEGGARS  ON  HORSEBACK — PRISONS 

SLAVERY  —  BRAZILIAN    LAWS    IN    FAVOR    OF    FREEDOM THE     MINA     HERCULES 

ENGLISH    SLAVE-HOLDERS SLAVERY    IN    BRAZIL    DOOMED. 

The  streets  of  few  cities  are  better  lighted  than  those  of  Eio  do 
Janeiro.  The  gas-works  on  the  Atterrado  sends  its  illuminating 
streams  to  remote  suburbs  as  well  as  through  the  many  and  intri- 
cate thoroughfares  of  the  Cidade  Yelha  and  the  Cidade  Nova. 
They  have  not  the  convenient  fiction  which  city  governments  so 
often  palm  off  upon  themselves  in  the  United  States, — viz. :  that  the 
moon  shines  half  the  year;  for  in  Eio,  whether  Cjaithia  is  in  the 
full,  or  whether  shorn  of  her  beams  by  unforeseen  storms,  the  lamps 
continue  to  shed  their  brilliant  light.  The  coal  for  the  gas  comes 
from  England. 

After  ten  o'clock  at  night  few  people  are  seen  in  the  streets. 
The  Brazilians  are  eminently  an  "early  to  bed,  early  to  rise" 
people.  When  the  great  bells  ring  out  the  hour  often,  every  slave 
"heels  it;"  and  woe  be  to  him  that  is  caught  out  after  the  tocsin 
tolls  the  time  when  the  law  prescribes  that  he  should  be  in  his 
master's  house;  for,  if  dilatory,  the  police  seize  Jose  and  commit 
him  to  durance  vile  until  his  owner  ransom  him  by  a  smart  fine. 

The  same  rule  does  not  hold  good  in  regard  to  freemen ;  yet 
one  would  think  that  it  was  equally  in  force  without  regard  to 
class,  for  the  Fluminensians,  as  a  general  thing,  retire  at  ten  p.m. 
Nothing  is  more  surprising  to  a  stranger  from  the  North,  to  whom 
the  night  is  so  attractive,  with  its  coolness,  its  fragrance,  and  its  bril- 
liancy, than  to  find  the  streets  and  the  beautiful  suburbs  of  the  city 
almost  as  tenantless  and  silent  as  the  ruins  of  Thebes  or  Palmyra. 

The  police  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  is  military,  and  is  well  disciplined 

by  officers  of  the  regular  army.     They  are  fortified  with  plenty 
124 


The  Policeman  and  his  Duties. 


125 


ot  authority,  and  take  care  to  use  it.  Great  difficulties  have  some- 
times occurred  between  the  constabulary  and  foreigners,  where,  on 
some  occasions,  the  former  have  been  to'  blame;  but  it  was  good 
for  "Young  America,"  when  going  "round  the  Horn"  on  his  way 
to  California,  to  be  held  in  wholesome  restraint  by  these  ''yellow 
Brazilians,"  whom  he  affected  to  desjiise.  The  police  is  armed. 
During  the  daj'  j'ou  may  see  them  singly  or  in  pairs,  having  their 
positions  in  conv-enient  localities  for  watching  the  slaves  and  all 
others  suspected  of  liability  .to  disorder.  Now  the  policeman,  with 
three  or  four  of  his  com- 
panions, strolls  along  by 
Hotel  Phai'oux  to  have  an 
eye  upon  the  foreign  sailors; 
or  again,  with  a  single  con- 
frere, he  takes  his  stand  by 
the  Carioca  fountain ;  or, 
again,  his  undress-cap, 
his  blue  uniform,  his 
sword,  and  his  brace  of 
pistols,  arc  wholesomely 
displayed  at  a  corner  venda, 
where  the  tomanca^-shod 
Sr.  Antonio  from  Fayal 
sells  cachaga,  (rum,)  pig- 
tail tobacco,  cariie  secca, 
mandioc-flour,  red  Lisbon 
wine,  and  black  beans 
The  above-mentioned  sta- 
ples are  the  articles  of 
stock  and  consumption  for 
the  low  grocer  and  the  low 

class  that  patronize  him.  Sometimes  he  will  get  a  little  higher  in 
the  provision-line,  and  add  butter,  brought  from  Ireland,  lard 
from  the  United  States,  onions  from  Portugal,  sardines,  a  few  hams, 
and  sausages.     Then,  too,  he  is  somewhat  of  a  lumber-inerchant; 


POLICEMAN      AND      VENDA. 


*  A  sort  of  wooden-soled  slipper  much  worn  by  the  lower  class  of  whites  and  the 
free  blacks. 


126  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

for  he  purchases  a  few  bundles  of  finely-split  wood,  which,  togethei 
"with  chai'Goal,  is  the  small  accompaniment  of  the  kitchen-battery 
in  Brazil.  At  these  vendas  is  the  only  hard  drinking  (except  that 
done  by  English  and  Americans)  in  Rio,  and  that  imbibing  is  by 
the  slaves.  Often  Congo  or  Mozambique  becomes  eloquent  under 
the  effects  of  cacha^a,  and  then  the  jDoliceman  is  an  effectual  ai-biter. 

]  have  found  few  cities  more  orderly  than  Rio  de  Janeiro;  and 
the  police  are  so  generall}^  on  the  alert,  that,  in  comparison  with 
New  York  and  Philadelphia,  bui-glaries  rarely  occur.  I  felt  greater 
personal  security  at  a  late  hour  of  the  night  in  Rio  than  I  would 
in  New  York.  Yet  there  are  occasions  when  the  police  receive  a 
strong  hint  through  the  jDublic  press  for  their  remissness.  The 
following,  taken  from  a  late  Correio  Mercantil,  is  an  illustration: — 
"Night  before  last,  after  eight  o'clock,  an  individual  named 
Mauricio  was  attacked  by  a  band  of  capoeiras*  who  fell  upon  him 
with  clubs,  striking  him  upon  the  forehead,  and  gashing  his  thigh 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  injure  the  artery.  The  victim,  bathed  in 
blood,  was  taken  to  the  drug-store  of  Sr.  Pires  Ferao,  and  there 
received  the  necessary  succors,  which  were  afforded  him  by  Dr. 
Thomas  An  tunes  de  Abreu,  who  rushed  to  the  aid  of  the  poor  man 
as  soon  as  he  was  called.  No  police-authority  appeared  to  take 
cognizance  of  this  criminal  deed!"  Such  outrages  are  exceptions, 
and  a  few  articles  based  on  facts  like  the  above  soon  arouse  the 
police  to  their  duty. 

There  are  some  offences  against  the  good  of  society  which  the 
police  occasionally  winked  at  during  my  residence  in  Rio, — i.e. 
gambling.  The  jo^o  seems  an  inveterate  habit  of  some  Brazilians; 
and  when  I  have  been  cooped  up  with  them  in  quarantine  I  have 
had  opportunities  for  watching  how  every  class  represented  in  the 
Lazareto,  from  the  padre  down,  gave  itself  up  to  the  gambling- 
passion.  At  Rio  the  laws  are  very  stringent  against  gambling- 
houses;  and  there  are  times  when  their  owners  are  earnestly 
ferreted  out  by  the  police.  But  in  the  Rua  Princeza,  during  1852 
and  '53,  a  certain  lawyer  each  Saturday  night  constituted  his 
house  a  rendezvous  where  gamblers  met, — the  regular  professional 

*  Africans,  -who  with  daggers  run  a  muck  in  the  streets,  but  not  often  at  the 
present  day  in  Rio.     See  page  137. 


Gambling  and  Lotteries.  127 

blackleg,  (including  the  lawyer,)  and  the  young  pigeon  Avho  came 
to  be  plucked.  When  I  went  to  my  religious  services  at  nine 
o'clock  on  Sabbath  morning,  their  carriages  would  be  still  standing 
before  the  door,  and  their  sleepy  servants  yawning  and  swearing 
on  every  side.  Policemen  regularly  marched  down  the  Catete  at 
all  hours  of  the  night  and  in  the  daytime ;  yet  month  after  month 
pasnod,  and  the  den  was  not  broken  up  until  their  operations  w^ere  for 
a  time  suspended  by  the  suicide  of  one  of  the  parties  concerned. 

There  is  another  species  of  gambling  most  deleterious  in  its 
effects,  which  is  countenanced  and  supported  by  the  Government. 
1  refer  to  lotteries.  They  are  not  "  sham"  concerns,  but  prizes  are 
put  up,  and,  if  drawn,  paid.  If  it  is  a  church,  a  theatre,  or  some 
other  public  building,  to  be  erected,  the  Government  grants  a 
lottery.  There  are  always  six  thousand  tickets  at  20$000  (twenty 
milreis)  eachj  the  highest  prize  is  20,000$000,  (or  about  ten  thou- 
sand dollars,)  and  the  second  prize  is  half  that  sum:  there  are  then 
two  thousand  more  tickets,  which  draw  prizes  of  20$000  (ten  dol- 
lars) and  upward.  Everywhere  in  the  city  are  offices  for  selling  the 
tickets,  and  in  the  countr}^  there  are  equestrian  ticket-venders  who 
go  from  house  to  house  with  the  risking  billets.  There  is  no  fraud 
in  awarding  the  prizes,  and  there  is  such  a  rage  for  this  kind  of 
gambling  that  the  tickets  are  sold  in  a  few  days.  The  effects  are 
bad;  for  the  poorest  whites  and  the  shabbiest  blacks  will  rake, 
scrape,  and  steal,  until  they  have  sufficient  to  purchase  the  quarter 
part  of  a  billet,  and  then  run  with  it  to  the  shop  where  the  flaming 
wheel-sign  with  Anda  a  roda  hoje  (The  wheel  turns  to-day)  tells 
them  that  this  is  the  road  to  fortune.  When  such  a  spirit  is 
engendered  by  the  State,  it  becomes  rather  difficult  for  the  muni- 
cij)al  authorities  to  put  down  private  gambling. 

The  head-quarters  of  the  police  are  in  an  ancient  public  building 
in  the  Rua  do  Conde. 

The  city  government,  consisting  of  nine  aldermen,  who  compose 
the  Camara  municipal,  are  elected  by  the  people  of  Rio  {i.e.  those 
possessing  100$, — about  fift}'  dollars  income)  once  in  four  years. 

The  City  Ilall,  which  is  called  the  Camara  Municipal,  is  situated 
on  the  Campo  Santa  Anna.  The  General  Government  enforces 
vaccination,  and  it  is  on  the  lower  floor  of  this  building  where  all 
who  present  themselves  ou  Thursdays  and  Saturdays  are  vaccinated 


128  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

free  of  charge  :  the  patients,  however,  are  obligated  to  return  after 
eight  days.  A  portion  of  the  report  of  the  Minister  of  the  Empire 
is  devoted  to  this  subject,  and  in  the  report  of  1854-55  the  minister 
says  that  in  the  cities  and  large  towns  it  is  easy  to  enforce  the 
law,  but  in  the  villages  and  the  country  it  is  difficult  to  overcome 
the  obstacles  which  superstition  throws  in  the  way. 

There  is  a  class,  confined  to  no  portion  of  the  world,  which  comes 
under  the  especial  surveillance  of  the  police.  Every  Saturday  the 
beggars  have  their  harvest.  Mr.  AValsh  remarked,  in  1828,  that 
beggars  were  seldom  seen  in  the  streets  of  Eio.  This  was  far  from 
being  the  case  in  1838,  when  Dr.  Kidder  resided  there.  Through 
the  lenity  or  carelessness  of  the  police,  great  numbers  of  vagrants 
were  continually  perambulating  the  streets  and  importuning  for 
alms;  and  mendicants  of  every  description  had  their  chosen  places 
in  the  thoroughfares  of  the  town,  where  they  regularly  waited  and 
saluted  the  passers-by  with  the  mournful  drawl  of  Favorece  o  sen 
pobre  pelo  amor  de  Deos.  If  any,  instead  of  bestowing  a  gift,  saw 
fit  to  respond  to  this  formula  with  its  counterpart,  Deos  Ihe  favorece, 
(God  help  you,)  they  were  not  always  sure  to  escape  without  an 
insult.  When  this  state  of  things  was  at  its  height,  and  it  was 
known  that  numerous  rogues  were  at  large  under  the  disguise  of 
beggars,  the  chief  of  the  police  suddenly  sprung  a  mine  upon  them. 
He  oft'ered  the  constables  a  reward  of  ten  milrois  for  every  mendi- 
cant they  could  apprehend  and  deliver  at  the  House  of  Correction. 
In  a  few  days  not  less  than  one  hundred  and  seventy-one  vaga- 
bundos  were  delivered,  over  forty  of  whom  were  furnished  with 
emploj^ment  at  the  marine  arsenal.  The  remainder  were  made  to 
labor  at  the  penitentiary  till  they  had  liquidated  the  expense  of 
their  apprehension.  This  measure  had  a  mgst  happy  effect,  and 
the  streets  were  thenceforward  comparatively' free  from  mendicity, 
although  persons  really  deserving  charity  were  permitted  to  ask 
for  aid  at  their  pleasure. 

But  in  1855  the  evil  had  again  become  a  crying  one.  All  shades 
of  beggars  seemed  to  abound  everywhere.  At  length  it  was  dis- 
covered that  poor,  old,  worn-out  slaves — those  afflicted  with  blind- 
ness and  elephantiasis — were  sent  out  by  their  masters  to  ask 
alms.  A  new  chef  de  police,  however,  made  an  onslaught  upon  such 
mendicants.     He  had  them  arrested  and  examined.     JS^o  slave  was 


Beggars  on  IIorseback. 


129 


thenceforth  allowed  to  beg,  as  ho  rightly  deemed  that  the  owner 
who  had  enjoyed  the  fruit  of  his  labor  during  his  days  of  health 
could  well  afford  to  take  care  of  him  when  overtaken  by  old  age 
and  sickness.*  Twelve  mendicants  were  considered  real  objects 
of  charity,  and  had  licenses  given  them.  These  beggars,  being 
either  blind  or  lame,  have  now  the  monopoly  of  the  eleemosynary 
sympathies  of  the  good  people  of  Eio ;  and  I  believe  it  is  found  to 
be  a  most  profitable  business.  Some  of  them  are  carried  in  a  rede 
by  two  slaves  or  drawn  by  one ;  one  worthy  rejoices  in  a  little 
carriage  pulled  by  a  fat  sheep,  and  another — a  footless  man — rides 


\    \ 


THE      BEGGAR. 


on  a  white  horse.  Sometimes,  in  the  country-parts  of  Brazil,  beg- 
gars whose  pedal  extremities  are  free  from  all  derangement  play 
the  cavalier,  altogether  disdaining  to  foot  it,  and  seem  to  receive 
none  the  less  charity  than  if  they  trudged  from  door  to  door 
Upon  one  occasion,  a  female  beggar,  adorned  with  a  feather  in  her 
bonnet  and  mounted  on  horseback,  rode  up  to  a  friend  of  mine  at 
St.  Alexio,  and,  demanding  alms,  was  exceedingly  indignant  at  any 
inquiries  as  to  the  consistency  of  her  costume.  The  English  pro- 
verb is  not  remarkably  complimentary  to  such  mendicants;   but 


*  The  proverb  in  Portuguese  is  very  forcible  • — **  He  who  has  enjoyed  the  meat 
may  gnaw  the  bones." 

9 


130  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

a  like  application  is  never  heard  in  the  land  of  the  Southern 
Cross. 

The  House  of  Correction,  referred  to  on  a  jDrevious  page,  is 
located  under  the  brow  of  a  high  hill,  between  the  suburbs  of 
Catumby  and  Mata  Porcos.  The  grounds  pertaining  to  it  are 
surrounded  by  high  granite  walls,  constructed  b}^  the  prisoners, 
who  have  long  been  chiefly  employed  on  various  improvements 
of  the  premises.  On  the  hill-side  is  a  quarry,  and  numbers  are 
emploj-ed  in  cutting  stone  for  more  extended  walls  and  buildings. 
Others  are  made  to  carry  earth  in  wooden  trays  upon  their  heads, 
sometimes  from  one  part  of  the  ground  to  another,  or  to  fill  the 
cars  of  a  tram-railway,  which  runs  from  within  the  walls  to  the 
borders  of  a  marsh  nearly  a  mile  distant,  which  is  by  this  process 
being  reclaimed  from  the  tide-water  and  converted  into  valuable 
ground.  The  more  refractor}^  criminals  are  chained  together,  gene- 
rally two  and  two,  but  sometimes  four  or  five  go  along  in  file,  clank- 
ing a  common  chain,  which  is  attached  to  the  leg  of  each  individual. 

The  House  of  Correction  is  as  fine  a  building,  in  an  architectural 
point  of  view,  as  any  similar  edifice  in  the  United  States.  The 
Director,  (Sr.  Falcao,)  however,  finds  fault  with  its  plan.  It  is  not 
yet  completed;  and  it  is  gratifying  to  see  that  the  Brazilian 
Government  is  taking  every  measure  to  bring  about  an  entire 
reform  in  prison-buildings  and  prison-discipline.  It  is  one  of  those 
evidences  of  progress  in  a  nation  which  is  unmistakable.  In  1852, 
Sr.  Antonio  J.  de  M.  Falcao — who,  by  his  intelligence  and  enlarged 
views,  was  admirably  fitted  for  his  ofiice — was  sent  to  the  United 
States  to  inspect  our  various  prison-systems.  The  report  of  Sr.  Falcao 
to  the  Minister  of  Justice  (Sr.  J.  Thomas  Nabuco  de  Araujo)  is  in- 
corporated in  one  of  the  Relatorios  of  the  nation  for  1854-55,  and  is 
full  of  interest.  It  seems  strange  to  read,  in  the  official  message  of 
a  Brazilian  Minister,  familiar  and  sensible  discussions  in  regard  to 
the  systems  of  Auburn  and  Pennsylvania  ;  and  it  is  a  deserved  com- 
pliment to  Sr.  Falcao  that  his  able  rejjort  has  been  fully  reprinted 
in  our  own  country,  in  the  "Journal  of  Prison  Discipline,"  so  ably 
conducted  by  F.  A.  Packard,  Esq.,  of  Philadelphia.  Sr.  Falcao  gives 
his  preference  to  the  system  of  Pennsylvania.  The  Eelatorio  of 
the  Minister  of  Justice  for  the  year  mentioned  is  overflowing  with 
instructive  and  interesting  details  in  regard  to  penitentiaries  and 


Punishments  of  Slaves. 


131 


A_. 


prisons.  It  is  not,  however,  a  n\ere  dry  narration  of  facts,  but 
wise  suggestions  and  feasible  improvements  are  laid  before  the 
nation  in  a  manner  at  once  clear,  attractive,  and  forcible. 

The  citj'  prisons  known  as  the  Aljube  and  the  Xadres  da  Policia 
all  have  been  in  a  sad  state :  bad  ventilation,  bad  food,  and  miserable 
damp  cells,  have  called  forth  the  denunciations  of  Sr.  Falcao  and 
other  enlightened  philanthropists  in  Eio,  and  these  evils  will  soon 
be  remedied. 

Besides  the  prisons  now  enumerated,  there  are  places  of  confine- 
ment in  the  different  forts;  those  of  Santa  Cruz  and  the  Ilha  das 
Cobras  being  the  principal. 

Many  of  the  prisoners  are  slaves,  though  the  Brazilian  law  is  not 
at  all  dainty  as  to  color  or 
condition.  In  the  Relatorio 
of  the  Minister  of  Justice 
for  the  year  1854-55  I  find 
that  from  the  7th  of  Sep- 
tember, 1853,  to  the  16th 
of  March,  1855,  forty  slaves 
and  twenty-one  free  per- 
sons (which  includes  whites 
and  blacks)  were,  for  mur- 
der, condemned  to  death. 
The  punishment  of  four- 
teen of  the  slaves  was  com- 
muted, and  that  of  but  four 
of  the  freemen. 

One  depai'tment  of  the 
Casa  da  Correcgao  is  appro- 
priated to  the  flogging  of 
slaves,  who  are  sent  thither 
to  be  chastised  for  disobe- 
dience or  for  common  mis- 
demeanors. They  are  re- 
ceived at  any  hour  of  the 

day  or  night,  and  retained  free  of  expense  as  long  as  their  masters 
choose  to  leave  them.  It  would  be  remarkable  if  scenes  ol'  extreme 
ciuelty  did  not  sometimes  occur  here. 


,.      ,  .....  ,/  r' 


THE    LOG,    IRON    COLLAR,    AND  TIN    MASK. 


132  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

The  punishments  of  the  Casa  da  Correcao  are  not,  however,  the 
only  chastisements  which  the  refractory  slave  receives.  There  are 
private  floggings;  and  some  of  the  most  common  expiations  are 
the  tin  mask,  the  iron  collar,  and  the  log  and  chain.  The  last  two 
denote  runaways;  hut  the  tin  mask  is  often  placed  upon  the  visage 
to  prevent  the  city-slave  from  drinking  cacha^a  and  the  country- 
slave  from  eating  clay,  to  which  man}--  of  the  field-negroes  are 
addicted.  This  mania, — for  it  can  be  called  nothing  else, — if  not 
checked,  causes  languor,  sickness,  and  death. 

The  subject  of  slavery  in  Brazil  is  one  of  great  interest  and  hope- 
fulness. The  Brazihan  Constitution  recognises,  neither  directly 
nor  indirectly,  color  as  a  basis  of  civil  rights;  hence,  once  free,  the 
black  man  or  the  mulatto,  if  he  possess  energy  and  talent,  can  rise 
to  a  social  position  from  which  his  race  in  North  America  is 
debarred.  Until  1850,  when  the  slave-trade  was  effectually  put 
down,  it  was  considered  cheaper,  on  the  country-plantations,  to 
use  up  a  slave  in  five  or  seven  years  and  purchase  another,  than  to 
take  care  of  him.  This  I  had,  in  the  interior,  from  intelligent 
native  Brazilians,  and  my  own  observation  has  confirmed  it.  But, 
since  the  inhuman  traffic  with  Africa  has  ceased,  the  price  of  slaves 
has  been  enhanced,  and  the  selfish  motives  for  taking  greater  care 
of  them  have  been  increased.  Those  in  the  city  are  treated  better 
than  those  on  the  plantations :  they  seem  more  cheerful,  more  full 
of  fun,  and  have  greater  opportunities  for  freeing  themselves.  But 
still  there  must  be  great  cruelty  in  some  cases,  for  suicides  among 
slaves — which  are  almost  unknown  in  our  Southern  States — are 
of  very  frequent  occurrence  in  the  cities  of  Brazil.  Can  this,  how- 
ever, be  attributed  to  cruelty  ?  The  negro  of  the  United  States  is 
the  descendant  of  those  who  have,  in  various  ways,  acquired  a 
knowledge  of  the  hopes  and  fears,  the  rewards  and  punishments, 
which  the  Scriptures  hold  out  to  the  good  and  threaten  to  the  evil : 
to  avoid  the  crime  of  suicide  is  as  strongly  inculcated  as  to  avoid 
that  of  murder.  The  North  American  negro  has,  \>y  this  very 
circumstance,  a  higher  moral  intelligence  than  his  brother  fresh 
from  the  wild  freedom  and  heathenism  of  Africa;  hence  the  latter, 
goaded  by  cruelty,  or  his  high  spirit  refusing  to  bow  to  the  white 
man,  takes  that  fearful  leap  which  lands  him  in  the  invisible 
world. 


Brazilian  Laws  in  favor  of  Freedom.  133 

In  Brazil  every  tiling  is  in  favor  of  freedom  j*  and  such  are  the  facili- 
ties for  the  slave  to  emancipate  himself,  and,  when  emancipated,  if 
he  possess  the  proper  qualifications,  to  ascend  to  higher  eminences 
than  those  of  a  mere  free  black,  that  fuit  will  be  written  against 
slaver}^  in  this  Empire  before  another  half-century  rolls  around. 
Some  of  the  most  intelligent  men  that  I  met  with  in  Brazil — men 
educated  at  Paris  and  Coimbra — were  of  African  descent,  whose 
ancestors  were  slaves.  Thus,  if  a  man  have  freedom,  money,  and 
merit,  no  matter  how  black  may  be  his  skin,  no  place  in  society  is 
refused  him.  It  is  surprising  also  to  observe  the  ambition  and 
the  advancement  of  some  of  these  men  with  negro  blood  in  their 
veins.  The  National  Library  furnishes  not  only  quiet  rooms,  large 
tables,  and  plenty  of  books  to  the  seekers  after  knowledge,  but 
pens  and  paper  are  supplied  to  such  as  desire  these  aids  to  their 
Btudies.  Some  of  the  closest  students  thus  occupied  are  mulattoes. 
Formerly  a  large  and  successful  printing-establishment  in  Eio — 
that  of  Sr.  F.  Paulo  Brito — was  owned  and  directed  by  a  mulatto. 
In  the  colleges,  the  medical,  law,  and  theological  schools,  there  is 
no  distinction  of  color.  It  must,  however,  be  admitted  that  there 
is  a  certain — though  by  no  means  strong — prejudice  existing  all 
over  the  laud  in  favor  of  men  of  pure  white  descent. 

In  some  intestate  cases,  a  slave  may  go  before  a  magistrate,  have 
his  price  fixed,  and  purchase  himself;  and  I  was  informed  that 
a  man  of  mental  endowments,  even  if  he  had  been  a  slave,  would 
be  debarred  from  no  official  station,  however  high,  unless  it  might 
be  that  of  Imperial  Senator. 

The  appearance  of  Brazilian  slaves  is  \qvj  different  from  that  of 
their  class  in  our  own  country.  Of  course,  the  house-servants  in 
the  large  cities  are  decently  clad,  as  a  general  rule ;  but  even  these 
are  almost  always  barefooted.  This  is  a  sort  of  badge  of  slavery. 
On  the  tables  of  fares  for  ferry-boats,  you  find  one  price  for  persons 
wearing  shoes,  (calgadas,)  and  a  lower  one  for  those  descalgas,  or 


*  A  Southern  lady  (the  wife  of  the  very  popular  United  States  Consul  at  Rio 
during  the  administration  of  President  Pierce)  used  to  say  that  "  the  very  paradise 
of  the  negroes  was  Brazil ;"  for  there  they  possess  a  warm  climate,  and,  if  they 
choose,  may  make  their  way  up  in  the  world. 


134 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


without  shoes.  In  the  houses  of  many  of  the  wealthy  Fluminensea 
you  makie  your  way  through  a  crowd  of  little  woolly-heads,  mostly 
guiltless  of  clothing,  who  are  allowed  the  run  of  the  house  and  the 
amusement  of  seeing  visitors.  In  families  that  have  some  tincture 
of  European  manners,  these  unsightl}^  little  bipeds  are  kept  in  the 
background.  A  friend  of  mine  used  frequently  to  dine  in  the 
house  of  a  good  old  general  of  high  rank,  around  whose  table 
gambolled  two  little  jetty  blacks,  who  hung  about  their  '^pai"  (as 
they  called  him)  until  they  received  their  portions  from  his  hands, 
and  that,  too,  before  he  commenced  his  own  dinner.  "Whenever  the 
lady  of  the  house  drove  out,  these  pets  were  put  into  the  carriage, 

and  were  as  much  offended 
at  being  neglected  as  any 
spoiled  only  son.  They 
were  the  children  of  the 
lady's  nurse,  to  whom  she 
had  given  freedom.  Indeed, 
a  faithful  nurse  is  generally 
rewarded  by  manumission. 
The  appearance  of  the 
black  male  population  who 
live  in  the  open  air  is  any 
thing  but  appetizing.  Their 
apology  for  dress  is  of  the 
coarsest  and  dirtiest  de- 
scription. Hundreds  of 
them  loiter  about  the 
streets  with  large  round 
wicker-baskets  ready  to 
carry  any  parcel  that  you 
desire  conveyed.  So  cheaply 
and  readily  is  this  help  ob- 
tained, that  a  white  servant 
seldom  thinks  of  carryLng 
home  a  package,  however  small,  and  would  feel  quite  insulted  if 
you  refused  him  a  preto  de  ganho  to  relieve  him  of  a  roll  of  calico 
or  a  watermelon.  These  blacks  are  sent  out  by  their  masters,  and 
are  required  to  bring  home  a  certain  sum  daily.     They  are  allowed 


PRETO      DE      GANHO      AND      QUITANDEIRA. 


TuE  MiNA  Hercules.  135 

a  portion  of  their  gains  to  buy  their  food,  and  at  night  sleep  on 
a  mat  or  board  in  tlio  lower  purUeus  of  the  house.  You  fre- 
quently see  horrible  cases  of  elephantiasis  and  other  diseases, 
which  are  doubtless  engendered  or  increased  by  the  little  care 
bestowed  upon  them. 

Formei-ly  the  coffee-carriers  were  the  finest  race  of  blacks.  They 
were  almost  all  of  the  Mina  tribe,  from  the  coast  of  Benin,  and  were 
athletic  and  intelligent.  They  worked  half  clad,  and  their  sinewy 
forms  and  jetty  skins  showed  to  advantage  as  they  hastened  at  a 
quick  trot,  seemingly  unmindful  of  their  heavy  loads.  This  work 
paid  well,  but  soon  broke  them  down.  They  had  a  system 
among  themselves  of  buying  the  freedom,  of  any  one  of  their  num- 
ber who  was  the  most  respected.  After  having  paid  their  master 
the  sum  required  by  him  daily,  they  clubbed  together  their  surplus 
to  liberate  the  chosen  favorite.  There  was  a  Mina  black  in  Eio 
remarkable  for  his  height,  who  w-as  called  "The  Prince,"  being,  in 
fact,  of  the  blood-royal  of  his  native  country.  He  was  a  prisoner 
of  war,  and  sold  to  Brazil.  It  is  said  that  his  subjects  in  Eio  once 
freed  him  by  their  toil:  he  returned,  engaged  in  war,  and  was  a 
second  time  made  prisoner  and  brought  back.  Whether  he  ever 
regained  his  throne  I  know  not;  but  the  loss  of  it  did  not 
seem  to  weigh  heavily  on  his  mind.  He  was  an  excellent  carrier; 
and,  "when  a  friend  of  mine  embarked,  the  ''Prince"  and  his  trooj) 
were  engaged  to  transport  the  baggage  to  the  ship.  He  carried 
the  laro-est  case  on  his  head  the  distance  of  two  miles  and  a  half. 
This  same  case  was  pronounced  unmanageable  in  Philadelphia 
by  the  united  efforts  of  four  American  negroes,  and  it  had  to  be 
relieved  of  half  its  contents  before  they  would  venture  to  lift  it 
up-stairs. 

From  time  to  time  the  traveller  will  meet  with  negroes  from 
those  portions  of  Africa  of  which  we  know  very  little  except  by 
the  reports  of  explorers  like  Livingstone,  Barth,  and  Burton. 
I  have  often  thought  that  the  slaves  of  the  United  States  are 
descended  not  from  the  noblest  African  stock,  or  that  more  than  a 
century  of  bondage  has  had  upon  them  a  most  degenerating  effect. 
We  find  in  Brazil  very  inferior  spiritless  Africans,  and  others  of 
an  almost  untamable  disposition.  The  Mina  negro  seldom  makes 
a  good  house-servant,  for  he  is  not  contented  except  in  breathing 


136  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

the  fresh  air.     The  men  become  coffee-carriers,  and  the  women 
quitandeiras,  or  street  pedlars. 

These  Minas  abound  at  Bahia,  and  in  1838  plunged  that  city  into 
a  bloody  revolt, — the  last  which  that  flourishing  municipality  has 
experienced.  It  was  rendered  the  more  dreadful  on  account  of 
the  secret  combinations  of  these  Minas,  who  are  Mohammedans, 
and  use  a  language  not  understood  by  other  Africans  or  by  the 
Portuguese. 

When  the  delegation  from  the  English  Society  of  Friends  visited 
Eio  de  Janeiro  in  1852,  they  were  waited  upon  by  a  deputation  of 
eight  or  ten  Mina  negroes.  They  had  earned  money  by  hard 
labor  and  had  purchased  their  freedom,  and  were  now  desirous  of 
returning  to  their  native  land.  They  had  funds  for  paying  their 
passage  back  again  to  Africa,  but  wished  to  know  if  the  coast  were 
reall}'  free  from  the  slavers.  Sixty  of  their  companions  had  left 
Eio  de  Janeiro  for  Badagry  (coast  of  Benin)  the  year  before,  and 
had  landed  in  safety.  The  good  Quakers  could  scarcely  credit  this 
last  information,  thinking  it  almost  impossible  that  any  who  had^ 
once  been  in  servitude  "should  have  been  able  and  bold  enough" to 
make  so  j)erilous  an  experiment;"  but  the  statement  of  the  Minas 
was  confirmed  by  a  Eio  ship-broker,  who  put  into  the  hands  of  the 
Friends  a  copy  of  the  charter  under  which  the  sixty  Minas  sailed, 
and  which  showed  that  they  had  paid  four  thousand  dollars  passage 
money.  (See  Appendix.)  A  few  days  after  this  interview,  Messrs 
Candler  &  Burgess  received  from  these  fine-looking  specimens  ot 
humanity  ''a  paper  beautifully  written  in  Arabic  by  one  of  their 
chiefs,  who  is  a  Mohammedan." 

In  Eio  the  blacks  belong  to  manj'-  tribes,  some  being  hostile 
to  each  other,  having  different  usages  and  languages.  The  Mina 
negroes  still  remain  Mohammedans,  but  the  others  are  nominal 
Eoman  Catholics. 

Many  of  them,  however,  continue  their  heathen  practices.  In 
1839,  Dr.  Kidder  witnessed  in  Engenho  Velho  a  funeral,  which  was 
of  the  same  kind  as  those  curious  burial-customs  which  the  African 
traveller  beholds  on  the  Gaboon  Eiver.  You  can  scarcely  look 
into  a  basket  in  which  the  quitandeiras  carry  fruit  without  seeing 
afetisch.  The  most  common  is  a  piece  of  charcoal,  with  which,  the 
abashed  darkey  will  inform  you,  the  "evil  eye"  is  driven  away. 


English  Slave-holders.  137 

There  is  a  singular  secret  society  among  the  negroes,  in  which  the 
hiffhest  rank  is  assigned  to  the  man  who  has  taken  the  most  lives. 
They  are  not  so  numerous  as  formerly,  but  from  time  to  time  harm 
the  unoffending.  These  blacks  style  themselves  capoeiros,  and 
during  a  festa  they  will  rush  out  at  night  and  rip  up  any  other 
black  they  chance  to  meet.  They  rarely  attack  the  whites,  know- 
ing, perhaps,  that  it  would  cost  them  too  dearl3^ 

The  Brazilians  are  not  the  only  proprietors  of  slaves  in  the 
Empire.  There  ai"e  many  Englishmen  who  have  long  held  Africans 
in  bondage, — some  for  a  series  of  years,  and  others  have  purchased 
slaves  since  1843,  when  what  is  called  the  Lord  Brougham  Act 
was  passed.  By  this  act  it  is  made  unlawful  for  Englishmen  to 
buy  or  sell  a  slave  in  any  land,  and  by  holding  property  in  man 
they  are  made  liable,  were  they  in  England,  to  prosecution  in 
criminal  courts.  The  English  mining-company,  whose  stockholders 
are  in  Great  Britain,  but  whose  lleld  of  operations  is  S.  Joao  del 
Rey  in  Brazil,  own  about  eight  hundred  slaves,  and  hire  one  thou- 
sand more.     1865,  the  English  government  has  remedied  this. 

Frenchmen  and  Germans  also  j)urchase  slaves,  although  they 
have  not  given  up  allegiance  to  their  respective  countries. 

If  it  be  asked,  "  \Yho  will  be  the  laborers  in  Brazil  when  slavery 
is  no  more?"  the  reply  is,  that,  though  the  slave's  bonds  are 
broken,  the  man,  and  a  better  man,  still  exists;  and  emigrants  will 
come  from  Germany,  Portugal,  the  Azores  and  Madeira.  1865, 
many  are  emigrating  from  the  South  of  the  United  States. 

It  is  a  striking  fact  that  emigrants  did  not  begin  to  arrive  from 
Europe  by  thousands  until  1852.  In  1850  and  '51  the  African  slave- 
trade  was  annihilated,  and  in  the  succeeding  year  commenced  the 
present  comparatively  vigorous  colonization.  Each  year  the  number 
of  colonists  is  increasing,  and  the  statesmen  of  the  Empire  are  now 
devoting  much  attention  to  discover  the  best  means  for  thus  pro- 
moting the  advancement  of  the  country. 

Almost  every  step  in  Brazilian  progress  has  been  prepared  by  a 
previois  gradual  advance:  she  did  not  leap  at  once  into  self- 
government.  She  was  raised  from  a  colonial  state  by  the  residence 
of  the  Court  from  Lisbon,  and  enjoyed  for  j-ears  the  position  of 
a  constituent  portion  of  the  Kingdom  of  Portugal.  The  present 
peaceful  state  of  the  Empire  under  D.  Pedro  II.  was  preceded  by 


138  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

the  decade  in  which  the  capabilities  of  the  people  for  self-govern- 
ment were  developed  under  the  Regency.  The  effectual  breaking 
up  of  the  African  slave-trade  is  but  the  precursor  of  a  more  import- 
ant step. 

Slavery  is  doomed  in  Brazil.  As  has  already  been  exhibited,  when 
freedom  is  once  obtained,  it  may  be  said  in  general  that  no  social 
hinderances,  as  in  the  United  States,  can  keep  down  a  man  of 
merit.  Such  hinderances  do  exist  in  our  country.  From  the  warm 
regions  of  Texas  to  the  coldest  corner  of  New  England  the  free 
black  man,  no  matter  how  gifted,  experiences  obstacles  to  his  eleva- 
tion which  are  insurmountable.  Across  that  imaginaiy  line  which 
separates  the  Union  from  the  possessions  of  Great  Britain,  the 
condition  of  the  African,  socially  considered,  is  not  much  superior. 
The  Anglo-Saxon  race,  on  this  point,  differs  essentially  from  the 
Latin  nations.  The  former  may  be  moved  to  generous  pity  for 
the  negro,  but  will  not  yield  socially.  The  latter,  both  in  Europe 
and  the  two  Americas,  have  always  placed  merit  before  color. 
Dumas,  the  mulatto  novel-writer,  is  as  much  esteemed  in  France 
as  Dickens  or  Thackeray  ai'e  in  England.  An  instance  came  under 
my  own  observation  which  confirms  most  strongly  the  remark 
made  above.  In  1849,  it  was  my  privilege  to  attend  with  a  large 
number  of  foreigners  a  soiree  in  Paris,  given  by  M.  de  Tocqueville, 
then  French  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs.  I  was  introduced  to  a 
visitor  from  the  United  States,  who  for  the  first  time  looked  uj^on 
the  scenes  of  the  gay  capital,  and  as  we  proceeded  to  the  refresh- 
ment-room his  arm  rested  on  mine.  I  found  that  this  clergyman, 
by  his  intelligence,  common  sense,  and  modesty,  commanded  the 
admiration  of  all  with  whom  he  came  in  contact.  A  few  weeks 
afterward  a  European  university  of  high  repute  honored  him  with 
the  degree  of  Doctor  of  Divinity.  In  England  he  was  looked  upon 
with  interest  and  curiosity;  but,  had  he  proposed  a  social  alliance 
equal  to  his  own  station,  I  doubt  if  success  would  have  attended 
his  offer.  In  1856,  the  same  clergyman  was  ejected  from  a  New 
York  railway-omnibus,  by  a  conductor  who  daily  permitted,  with- 
out molestation,  filthy  foreigners  of  the  lowest  European  class 
to  occupy  seats  in  the  identical  car.  When  the  matter  was 
submitted  to  the  courts  of  justice,  the  decision  sustained  the 
conductor.      There  was   no   attempt   to   place   the   case   on   any 


bi^AVERY.  139 

other  ground    than    that   the   pUiintiff    was   a   man   of   African 

descent. 

Note  for  ISGG. — The  laws  and  the  treatment  of  slaves  have  greatly  changed 
for  the  better  since  1850.  It  is  estimated  that,  by  the  emancipation  by  will,  by 
the  purchasing  of  their  own  freedom,  and  by  the  liberation  of  what  were  termed 
Africanos  livros,  (those  taken  from  captured  slave-vessels  and  apprenticed  out  for 
fourteen  years,)  the  number  of  slaves  has  decreased  one  million,  so  that  to-day 
there  are  not  2,000,000  at  the  highest  calculation.  Slavery  is  now  mostly  con- 
fined to  the  central  sea-coast  provinces.  But  the  emancipated  were  not  lost  to 
labor,  as  some  of  the  advocates  of  slavery  would  have  us  believe.  From  1850  to 
1860,  inclusive,  the  great  tropical  staples  of  cofiFee,  sugar,  cotton,  and  tobacco 
actually  increased  more  than  30  per  cent.  One  of  the  latest  notable  cases  of 
emancipation  was  by  the  Emperor,  who,  on  the  occasion  of  the  marriage  (October  16, 
1861)  of  the  Imperial  Princess  to  the  Count  d'Eu,  liberated  the  slaves  that  were 
hers  by  dower.  Sr.  Silveira  da  Motta,  Senator  from  Goyaz,  has  been  a  far-sighted 
statesman  in  this  respect.  He  has  repeatedly  brought  in  bills  to  limit  slavery; 
and  in  the  session  of  1865,  after  the  collapse  of  the  so-called  "Confederate 
States,"  his  eiforts,  with  those  of  the  venerable  Senator  Visconde  de  Jequitinhonha, 
have  brought  this  subject  most  prominently  before  the  Brazilian  people;  and 
slavery,  which  (if  the  "institution"  bad  longer  survived  in  North  America) 
would  have  died  in  twenty  years  without  special  legislation,  will  doubtless  soon 
be  so  limited  by  law  that  it  will  be  extinguished  at  an  early  date.  A.  C.  Tavares 
Bastos,  in  the  Chamber  of  Deputies,  has  been  a  jjersevering  advocate  of  emanci- 
pation. The  case  is  a  difficult  one  in  many  respects;  and  the  prayer  of  every 
philanthropist  is  that  the  Brazilians  may  have  the  wisdom  to  remove  this  great 
ulcer  from  their  body  politic. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

EEHGION — THE    CORRUPTION    OF    THE    CLERGY  —  MONSIGNOR    BEDINI  —  TOLERATION 

AMONG     THE     BRAZILIANS THE     PADRE FESTIVALS CONSUMPTION     OF     WAX 

THE    INTRUDO PROCESSIONS ANJINHOS  —  SANTA  PRISCILLIANA THE   CHOLERA 

NOT    CURED    BY    PROCESSIONS. 

The  "Eoman  Catholic  Apostolic"  is  the  religion  of  the  State  in 
Brazil;  yet,  by  the  liberal  Constitution,  and  by  the  equally-liberal 
sentiments  of  the  Brazilians,  all  other  denominations  have  the 
right  to  worship  God  as  they  choose,  whether  in  public  or  in 
private,  with  the  single  limitation  that  the  church-edifice  must 
not  be  exterior  de  templo, — in  the  form  of  a  temple, — which  has 
been  defined  by  the  supreme  judges  to  be  a  building  "without 
steeples  or  bells."  Roman  Catholicism  in  Brazil  has  never  been 
subject  to  the  influences  with  which  it  has  had  to  contend  in 
EurojDe  since  the  Reformation.  It  was  introduced  contempora- 
neously with  the  first  settlement  of  the  country  as  a  colony,  and 
for  three  hundred  years  has  been  left  to  a  perfectly  free  and 
untrammelled  course.  It  has  had  the  opportunity  of  exerting  its 
very  best  influences  on  the  minds  of  the  people,  and  of  arriving  at 
its  highest  degree  of  jDcrfection.  In  pomp  and  display  it  is  unsur- 
passed even  in  Italy.  The  greatest  defender  of  the  Church  of 
Rome  must  admit  that  South  America  has  been  a  fair  field  for  his 
ecclesiastical  polity;  and  if  his  religion  could  have  made  a  people 
great,  enlightened,  and  good,  it  has  had  the  power  to  have  made 
Spanish  and  Portuguese  America  a  moral,  as  it  is  a  natural,  Para- 
dise. Spain  and  Portugal,  at  the  time  of  the  appropriation  of  their 
possessions  in  the  New  World,  were  equal,  if  not  suj)erior,  to  the 
English  in  all  the  great  enterprises  of  the  fifteenth  and  sixteenth 
centuries:  but  how  widely  different  have  been  the  results  which 
have  flowed  from  the  colonies  founded  by  both !  Brazil  is  in  every 
respect  the  superior  State  of  South  America  just  so  far  as  she  has 

abandoned  the  exclusiveness  of  Romanism.     Since  the  Independ- 
140 


Corruption  of  the  Priestuood.  141 

ence,  the  priest-power  has  been  broken,  and  the  potent  hierarchy 
of  Eorao  does  not  rule  over  the  consciences  and  acts  of  men  as  in 
Chili  or  Mexico.  On  numerous  occasions,  measures  have  been 
taken  in  the  Assemblea  Geral  to  curtail  the  assumptions  of  the 
triple-crowned  priest  of  the  Eternal  City;  and  once,*  at  least,  it 
was  proposed  to  render  the  Brazilian  Church  independent  of  the 
Holy  See. 

It  may  be  said  that  the  advancement  in  liberality  which  the 
Empire  has  displayed  has  been  owing  to  political  considerations. 
Granted :  but  every  reader  of  histor}^  knows  that  the  commence- 
ment of  the  English  Eeformation  was  largely  implicated  with 
politics,  and  England's  independence  of  the  Papal  power  was  the 
beginning  of  her  greatness  as  a  state,  and  paved  the  way  for  the 
rapid  moral  advancement  which  characterizes  England  to-day. 

In  Brazil,  however,  other  than  political  views  must  be  taken  of 
the  present  freedom  from  bigotry.  The  priests,  to  some  extent, 
owe  the  loss  of  their  power  to  their  shameful  immorality.  There 
is  no  class  of  men  in  the  whole  Empire  whose  lives  and  practices 
are  so  corrupt  as  those  of  the  priesthood.  It  is  notorious.  The 
Relatorios  (messages)  of  the  Minister  of  Justice  and  the  Pi'ovincial 
Presidents  annually  allude  to  this  state  of  things.  Every  news- 
paper from  time  to  time  contains  articles  to  this  effect;  every  man, 
whether  high  or  low,  speaks  his  sentiments  most  unreservedly  on 
this  point;  no  ti-aveller,  whether  Eomanist  or  Protestant,  can  shut 
his  eye  to  the  glaring  facts.  In  every  part  of  Brazil  that  I  have 
visited  I  have  heard,  from  the  mouths  of  the  ignorant  as  well  as 
from  the  lips  of  the  educated,  the  same  sad  tale;  and,  what  is 
worse,  in  many  places  the  priests  openly  avow  their  shame.  Dr. 
Gardner,  the  naturalist,  lived  in  Brazil  from  1836  to  '41,  and  the 
greater  part  of  that  time  in  the  interior,  where  foreigners  are  very 
rarely  found.  In  speaking  of  the  banishment  of  the  laborious  and 
indefatigable  Jesuits,  whose  lives  in  this  portion  of  America  were 
without  reproach,  this  distinguished  botanist  says,  ''What  different 
men  they  must  have  been  from  the  degraded  race  who  now  under- 
take the  spiritual  welfare  of  this  nation  !     It  is  a  hard  thing  to  say, 


*  This  •was  during  the  Regency,  -when  Padre  Antonio  Maria  de  Moura  ivas  nomi- 
nated to  the  vacant  bishopric  of  Rio  de  Janeiro. 


142  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

but  I  do  it  not  without  "u-ell  considering  the  nature  of  the  asser- 
tion, that  the  present  clergy  of  Brazil  are  more  debased  and  immoral 
than  any  other  class  of  men."* 

Though  wo  should  lament  immorality  in  any  man  or  class  of 
men,  yet  the  combination  of  circumstances  mentioned  has  had  its 
effect  in  rendering  the  people,  as  well  as  the  Government,  tolerant. 

A  few  years  ago,  Consignor  Bedini  (Archbishop  of  Thebes,  and 
late  Pope's  Legate  in  the  United  States  and  in  other  partibus  infi- 
delium)  was  the  Nuncio  of  Pius  IX.  at  the  Court  of  Brazil.  In 
July,  1846,  the  nuncio  went  to  the  mountain-city  of  Petroj^olis, 
(about  forty  miles  from  Eio,)  where  are  many  German  Protestants, 
who  have  a  chapel  of  their  own,  which,  as  well  as  the  chapels  in 
other  colonies,  is  protected  under  the  broad  shield  of  the  Constitu- 
tion, and  receives  a  portion  of  its  support  directly  from  the  Govern- 
ment. There  had  been  certain  mixed  marriages;  and  Monsignor 
preached  a  furious  sermon,  in  which  he  declared  that  all  Eomauists 
so  allied  were  living  in  concubinage, — their  marriages  were  void,  and 
their  children  illegitimate.  A  storm  of  indignation,  both  at  Petro- 
pohs  and  Eio,  fell  upon  the  head  of  the  nuncio,  whose  arrival  in 
Brazil  had  been  preceded  by  the  rumor  of  an  assurance  to  the  Pope 
that  he  would  bind  this  Empire  ''faster  than  ever  to  the  chair  of 
St.  Peter."  The  Diario  do  Bio  de  Janeiro,  a  conservative  journal 
always  considered  the  quasi  organ  of  the  Government,  denounced 
M.  Bedini  in  firm  but  respectful  language,  and  insisted  that  it  was 


*  I  was  once  dining  with  a  Roman  Catholic  gentleman  in  the  province  of  Rio  de 
Janeiro,  and,  of  his  own  accord,  he  said  to  me,  "How  can  I  obey  the  injunctions 
of  my  priest  ?  he  reads  us  the  Decalogue,  and  yet  he  is  the  greatest  breaker  of  the 
seventh  commandment."  In  the  province  of  Bahia  I  made  the  acquaintance  of  a 
Roman  Catholic  who  had  a  number  of  female  operatives  under  his  charge,  and  a 
chapel  connected  with  his  establishment.  The  priest  (who  was  one  of  the  few 
moral  ecclesiastics  in  Brazil)  died.  The  proprietor  then  made  known  his  wish  for 
a  new  chaplain.  Five  candidates  presented  themselves.  Four  were  men  whose 
lives  were  of  such  a  grossly-immoral  character  that  I  dare  not  insult  my  readers 
by  the  particulars  which  I  received  from  a  member  of  the  Romish  Church.  The 
fifth  was  an  old  man  of  good  repute,  but  not  very  active.  As  a  dernier  ressort  he 
was  engaged  to  fill  the  chaplaincy ;  but  only  a  few  months  elapsed  before  he  was 
discovered  to  be  living  in  open  concubinage  with  an  abandoned  character,  and  on 
remonstrance  would  not  give  up  this  sinful  union. 


MoNsiGNOR  Bedini.  143 

the  highest  imprudence  thus  to  kindle  the  tires  of  religious  intole- 
rance. Its  columns  contained  sentiments  in  regard  to  this  subject 
of  which  the  following  is  a  specimen: — "Propositions  like  those 
emitted  from  the  Chair  of  Truth  by  a  priest  of  the  character  of 
M.  Bedini  are  eminentl}'  censurable." 

The  nuncio  was  put  down,  but  not  until  one  of  his  friends 
published  what  were  probably  the  sentiments  of  Monsignor,  in 
which  he  complains  of  the  Emperor  for  "not  taking  sides  in  the 
controversy  and  using  his  influence  to  prevent  the  spread  of 
Protestant  heresies." 

There  is  no  country  in  South  America  where  the  philan- 
thropist and  the  Christian  have  a  freer  scope  for  doing  good 
than  Brazil.  So  far  from  its  being  true  that  a  Protestant  clergy- 
man is  always  tabooed,  and  that  the  people  "  entertain  a  feeling 
toward  him  bordering  on  contempt/' — as  one  writer  on  Bi-azil 
has  expressed  it, — I  can  testify  to  the  strongest  friendship  formed 
with  Brazilians  in  various  portions  of  the  Empire, — a  friendship 
which  did  not  become  weakened  by  the  contact  of  years  or  by 
the  plain  manifestations  and  defence  of  my  belief;  and  I  can 
subscribe  to  the  remark  put  forth  by  my  colleague  in  1845,  when 
he  says, — 

"It  is  my  firm  conviction  that  there  is  not  a  Eoman  Catholic 
country  on  the  globe  where  there  prevails  a  greater  degree  of       V 
toleration  or  a  greater  liberality  of  feeling  toward  Protestants.     • 

"I  will  here  state,  that  in  all  my  residence  and  travels  in  Brazil 
in  the  character  of  a  Protestant  missionary,  I  never  received  the 
slightest  opposition  or  indignity  from  the  people.  As  might  have 
been  expected,  a  few  of  the  priests  made  all  the  opposition  they 
could;  but  the  circumstance  that  these  were  unable  to  excite  the 
people  showed  how  little  influence  they  possessed.  On  the  other 
hand,  perhaps  quite  as  many  of  the  clergy,  and  those  of  the  most 
respectable  in  the  Empire,  manifested  toward  us  and  our  work  both 
favor  and  friendship. 

"From  them,  as  well  as  from  the  intelligent  laity,  did  wo -often 
hear  the  severest  reprehension  of  abuses  that  were  tolerated  in  the 
religious  system  and  practices  of  the  country,  and  sincere  regrets 
that  no  more  spirituality  pervaded  the  public  mind." 

To  one  who  looks  alone  at  the  empty  and  showy  rites  of  the 


144 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


Eoman  Catholic  Church  in  Brazil,  there  is  no  future  for  the 
country.  But  when  we  consider  the  liberal  and  tolerant  senti- 
ments that  prevail, — when  we  reflect  upon  the  freedom  of  debate, 
the  entire  liberty  of  the  press,  the  difi'usioh  of  instruction,  and  the 
workings  of  their  admirable  Constitution, — we  cannot  believe  that 
future  generations  of  Brazilians  will  retrograde.  Intellectuality 
without  morality  is,  we  are  aware,  an  engine  of  tremendous  power 
wanting  a  balance-wheel;  but  we  have  faith  that  God,  who  has 
blessed  Brazil  so  highly  in  other  respects,  will  not  withhold  from 
her  the  greatest  boon,  however  untoward  at  present  may  be  the 
prospect  of  such  a  bestowment. 

A  faithful  narrator  cannot  pass  over  this  subject  without  giving 
a  brief  notice  of  some  of  the  peculiarities  connected  with  worship 

at  the  capital,  which,  to  a 
certain  extent,  are  those 
witnessed  in  every  pro- 
vince of  the  Empire. 

There  is  no  mistaking 
a  priest  or  any  species 
of  ecclesiastics  in  Brazil. 
The  frades,  (monks,)  the 
Sisters  of  Charity,  as  well 
as  the  priests,  have  their 
peculiar  costumes, — most 
of  them  exceedingly  incon- 
venient in  a  warm  climate. 
You  cannot  be  an  hour  in 
the  streets  of  Eio  de  Ja- 
neiro without  beholding 
the  jpadre,  with  his  large 
hat  and  his  closely-but- 
toned and  long  gown, 
moving  along  with  per- 
fect composure  under  a 
hot  sun  that  makes  every 
one  else  swelter.  In  the  churches,  where  there  generally  pervades 
a  cool  atmosphere,  the  padre,  with  his  uncovered,  tonsured  head, 
with  his  thin  gowns  and  airj^  laces,  seems  prepared  for  a  tropic 


i'M'.m-j:>y-sifyix/> 


THE    PADRE. 


The  Tadre.  145 

clime;  but,  when  the  mass  is  said  and  his  duties  are  finislied,  he 
doffs  his  garment  of  common-sense  thickness  and  dons  that  which 
woukl  be  comfortable  in  a  Northern  winter. 

The  padre's  office  is  not  onerous  in  Brazil,  unless  he  choose  to 
make  it  such ;  and  very  few  are  thus  inclined.  There  are  no  poor 
families  to  visit  through  rude  snow-storms;  there  is  no  particular 
cure  of  souls,  beyond  repeating  masses  in  the  cool  of  the  morning, 
the  carrying  of  the  Host  to  the  hopeless  sick,  and  attendance 
at  a  funeral,  for  which  the  carriage  and  fee  are  always  provided. 
The  confessional  does  not  trouble  him  greatly,  for  the  people 
are  not  much  given  to  confession,  knowing  too  well  the  charac- 
ter of  the  confessor.  If  he  is  of  an  ambitious  turn  of  mind,  he 
becomes  a  candidate  for  the  Chamber  of  Deputies, — perchance  he 
succeeds  in  securing  a  seat  in  the  Senate, — and  there  he  will  jjour 
out  more  eloquence,  in  ore  rotundo  Lusitanian,  than  he  has  ever 
delivered  from  the  pulpit.  Perhaps  formerly  his  heaviest  duties 
were  in  getting  up  festivals.  They  have  been  wonderfull}''  abridged 
as  to  number,  but  still  there  is  a  very  respectable  share  of  them, 
which  gives  work  to  the  padres  and  the  alms-collectors,  and  holi- 
days to  clerks,  school-children,  and  slaves. 

Bishop  Manuel  do  Monte  Eoderigues  d'Araujo,  when  professor  at 

Olinda,  published  a  compendium  of  moral  theology,  and  he  states 

that  the  number  of  holidays  observed  in  the  Empire  of  Brazil  is 

the  same  as  that  decreed  by  Pope  Urban  VIII.  in  1G42,  with  the 

addition  of  one  in  honor  of  the  patron  saint  of  each  province,  city, 

town,  and  parish,  for  which  Urban's  decree  also  provides.     These 

holidays   are   divided   into   two  general  classes : — Dias   santos  de 

guarda,  or  whole  holidays,  in  which  it  is  not  lawful  to  work;   and 

Dias  santos  dispensados,  or  half-holidays,  in  which  the  ecclesiastical 

laws  require  attendance  upon  mass,  but  allow  the  people  to  labor. 

The   number  of  the  former  varies  from  twenty  to  twenty-five, 

according   as   certain   anniversaries   fall   on   a   Sabbath   or   on   a 

weekday;   while  the  number  of  the  latter  is  from  ten  to  fifteen. 

The   celebration  of   these   holidays  by  festivals   and   processions 

engages   universal    attention    throughout   the   country;    and  the 

JSTorth    American    is    constantly    reminded   of   the    4th    of   July 

minus  the  patriotic  enthusiasm.      The   number  of  festivals  were 

curtailed  within  a  few  years;   yet  some   five  or   six  during  the 

10 


146  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

year  arrest  the  course  of  commerce  and  material  duties  gene- 
rally. 

It  is  particularly  observable  that  all  the  religious  celebrations 
are  deemed  interesting  and  important  in  proportion  to  the  pomp 
and  splendor  which  the}^  display.  The  desirableness  of  having  all 
possible  show  and  parade  is  generally  the  crowning  ai'gument 
urged  in  all  aj^plications  for  Government  patronage,  and  in  all 
appeals  designed  to  secure  the  attendance  and  liberality  of  the 
people. 

The  daily  press  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  must  annually  reap  enormous 
sums  for  religious  advertisements,  of  which  1  give  one  or  two 
specimens. 

The  announcement  of  a  festival  in  the  Church  of  Santa  Rita  is 
thus  concluded  : — 

"TMsfcsIa  is  to  be  celebrated  with  high  mass  and  a  sermon,  at  the  expense  of 
the  devotees  of  the  said  Virgin,  the  Most  Holy  Mother  of  Grief,  who  ai'e  all  invited 
by  the  Board  to  add  to  the  splendor  of  the  occasion  by  their  presence,  since  they 
will  receive  from  the  above-named  Lady  due  reward." 

The  following  is  the  advertisement  of  a  festa  up  the  bay,  at 
Estrella,  and  is  as  clumsily  put  together  in  Portuguese  as  it  appears 
in  the  literal  English  translation  which  I  have  given  : — 

"The  Judge  and  some  devout  persons  of  the  Church  of  Our  Lady  of  Estrella, 
erected  in  the  village  of  the  same  name,  intend  to  hold  a  festival  there,  with  a 
chanted  mass,  sermon,  procession  in  the  afternoon,  and  a  Te  Dcum, — all  with  the 
greatest  pomp  possible, — on  the  23d  instant ;  and  at  night  there  will  be  a  beautiful 
display  of  fireworks.  The  managers  of  the  feast  have  asked  the  Director  of  the 
Inhomerim  Steamboat  Company  to  put  on  an  extra  steamer  that  will  leave  the 
Praia  dos  Mineiros  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning  and  return  after  the  fireworks. 

"It  is  requested  that  all  the  devotees  will  deign  to  attend  this  solemn  act,  to 

render  it  of  the  most  brilliant  description. 

"Francisco  Pereira  Ramos,  Secretary. 
"EsTEELLA,  Sept.  17,  1855." 

The  following  will  be  to  Northern  Christians  as  novel  as  it  is 
irreverent : — 

"  The  Brotherhood  of  the  Divine  Holy  Ghost  of  San  Gon9alo  (a  small  village  across 
the  bay)  will  hold  the  feast  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  on  the  31st  instant,  with  all  possible 
splendor.  Devout  persons  are  invited  to  attend,  to  give  greater  pomp  to  this  act 
of  religion.  On  the  1st  proximo  there  will  be  the  feast  of  the  Most  Holy  Sacra- 
ment, with  a  procession  in  the  evening,  a  Te  Deuni,  and  a  sermon.    On  the  2d, — the 


Festivals,  and  Consumption  of  "Wax.  147 

feaut  of  the  patron  of  San  Gon9aIo,— at  three  p.m.  there  will  be  brilliant  horse- 
racing  [!]  ;  after  which,  a  Tc  Dcum  and  magnificent  fireworks." 

But  it  is  not  tho  Church  alone  which  advertises  i\\(i  festas.  The 

tradesmen,  having  an  eye  to  business,  freely  make  known  their 

ecclesiastic  wares  through  the   agency  of  pubhc  journals.  The 
following  is  a  specimen  : — 

''Notice  to  the  Illustrious  Preparers  of  the  Festival  of  the  Holy  Spirit.— In  the  Rua 
dos  Ourives,  No.  78,  may  be  found  a  beautiful  assortment  of  Holy  Ghosts,  in  gold, 
■with  glories,  at  eighty  cents  each ;  smaller  sizes,  without  glories,  at  forty  cents ; 
silver  Holy  Ghosts,  with  glories,  at  six  dollars  and  a  half  per  hundred ;  ditto,  with- 
out glories,  three  dollars  and  a  half;  Holy  Ghosts  of  tin,  resembling  silver,  seventy- 
five  cents  per  hundred." 

The  language  of  the  last  two  advertisements  seems  to  us  like 
blasphemy;  but,  with  the  Brazilian  public,  there  is  a  levity  and  a 
want  of  veneration  in  holy  things  shocking  to  all  whose  religious 
impressions  are  derived  from  the  word  of  God. 

In  some  particulars  the  festivals  of  all  the  saints  are  alike.  They 
are  universally  announced,  on  the  day  previous,  by  a  discharge 
of  skyrockets  at  noon  and  by  the  ringing  of  bells  at  evening. 
During  the  festa,  also, — whether  it  continue  one  day  or  nine, — the 
frequent  discharge  of  rockets  is  kept  up.  These  missiles  are  so 
constructed  as  to  explode  high  up  in  the  air,  with  a  crackling 
sound,  after  which  they  descend  in  beautiful  curves  of  white  smoke 
if  in  the  daytime,  or  like  meteoric  showers  if  at  night.  Dr.  Walsh, 
who  had  resided  a  number  of  years  in  Turkej^,  thought  that  the 
Brazilians  quite  equalled  the  Turks  of  Constantinople  in  their  fond- 
ness for  exploding  gunpowder  on  festival  occasions.  lie,  more- 
over, gives  an  estimate,  by  which  it  would  appear  that  "  about 
seventy-five  thousand  dollars  are  annually  expended  in  Eio  for 
gunpowder  and  wax, — the  two  articles  which  enter  so  largely  into 
all  these  exhibitions  of  pomp  and  splendor."  The  wax  is  con- 
sumed in  vast  quantities  of  candles  that  are  kept  burning  before 
the  different  shrines,  interspersed  with  artificial  flowers  and  other 
decorations. 

Great  care  is  bestowed  upon  this  manner  of  adorning  churches, 
by  day  as  well  as  by  night.  Sometimes  regular  rows  of  blazing 
tapers  are  so  arranged  in  front  of  the  principal  altars  as  to  present 
the  appearance  of  semicones  and  pyramids  of  light  streaming  from 


148  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

the  floor  to  the  roof  of  the  edifice.  These  tapers  are  all  made 
of  wax^  imported  from  the  coast  of  Africa  for  this  express  use.. 
No  animal-oils  are  used  in  the  churches  of  Brazil :  that  which  sup- 
plies the  lamps  is  made  from  the  olive  or  from  the  palm-nut.  The 
tapers  are  manufactured  from  vegetable  and  bees'  wax. 

Nothing  is  more  imposing  than  the  chief  altar  of  the  Candellaria 
Church,  when  illuminated  by  a  thousand  perfumed  tapers,  which 
shed  their  light  amid  vases  of  the  most  gorgeous  flowers.  Dr. 
Walsh  states  that  on  a  certain  occasion  he  counted  in  the  chapel  of 
S.  Antonio  eight  hundred  and  thirty  large  wax  flambeaux  burning 
at  once,  and  the  same  night,  in  that  of  the  Terceira  do  Carmo, 
seven,  hundred  and  sixty;  so  that,  in  consideration  of  the  number 
of  chapels  from  time  to  time  illuminated  in  a  similar  way,  his 
estimate  hardly  appears  extravagant. 

Sometimes,  on  the  occasion  of  these  festivals,  a  stage  is  erected 
in  the  church,  or  in  the  open  air  near  by,  and  a  species  of  dramatic 
representation  is  enacted  for  the  amusement  of  the  spectators.  At 
other  times  an  auction  is  held,  at  which  a  great  variety  of  objects, 
that  have  been  provided  for  the  occasion  by  purchase  or  gift,  are 
sold  to  the  highest  bidder.  The  auctioneer  generally  manages  to 
keep  the  crowd  around  him  in  a  roar  of  laughter,  and,  it  is 
presumed,  gets  paid  in  proportion  to  the  interest  of  his  entertain- 
ment. 

Epiphany  is  celebrated  in  January,  and  is  styled  the  day  of 
kings.  The  occurrence  of  this  holiday  is  not  likely  to  escape  the 
mind  of  the  most  indifi'erent,  for  in  the  morning  your  butcher 
kindly  sends  youi*  beef  gratis.  The  festa  on  that  day  is  in  the 
Imperial  Chapel,  the  Emperor  and  Court  being  in  attendance  to 
give  it  a  truly  royal  character.  The  20th  of  January  is  St.  Sebas- 
tian's day,  on  which  it  is  customary  to  honor  the  "glorious 
patriarch"  under  whose  protection  the  Indians  and  the  French 
were  routed,  and  the  foundations  of  the  city  laid.  The  members 
of  the  municipal  chamber,  or  city  fathers,  take  especial  interest  in 
this  celebration,  and  by  virtue  of  their  ofiice  have  the  privilege  of 
carrying  the  imago  of  the  saint  in  procession  from  the  Imperial 
Chapel  to  the  old  Cathedral. 

The  Intrudo,  answering  to  the  Carnival  in  Italy,  extends  through 
the  three  days  preceding  Lent,  and  is  generally  entered  upon  by 


The  Intrudo.  149 

the  people  with  an  apparent  determination  to  redeem  time  for 
amusement  in  advance  of  the  long  restraint  anticipated. 

The  Intrudo,  however,  is  no  more  celebrated  as  it  was  when  1 
first  went  to  llio.  It  was  then  a  saturnalia  of  the  most  liquid 
character,  and  every  one, — men,  women,  and  children, — gave  them- 
selves up  to  it  with  an  abandon  most  strongly  in  contrast  with 
their  usual  apparent  stiffness  and  inactivity.  Before  it  was  sup- 
pressed by  the  police  it  was  a  marked  event.  It  was  not  with 
showers  of  sugar-plums  that  persons  were  saluted  on  the  days  of 
the  Intrudo,  but  with  showers  of  oranges  and  eggs,  or  rather  of 
waxen  balls  made  in  the  shape  of  oranges  and  eggs,  but  filled  with 
water.  These  articles  were  prepared  in  immense  quantities 
beforehand,  and  exposed  for  sale  in  the  shops  and  streets.  The 
shell  was  of  sufficient  strength  to  admit  of  being  hurled  a  consi- 
derable distance,  but  at  the  moment  of  collision  it  broke  to  pieces, 
bespattering  whatever  it  hit.  Unlike  the  somewhat  similar  sport 
of  snowballing  in  cold  countries,  this  jogo  Avas  not  confined  to 
boys  or  to  the  streets,  but  was  played  in  high  life  as  well  as  in  low, 
in-doors  and  out.  Common  consent  seemed  to  have  given  the 
license  of  pelting  any  one  and  every  one  at  pleasure,  whether 
entering  a  house  to  visit  or  walking  in  the  streets. 

In  fact,  whoever  went  out  at  all  on  these  days  expected  a  duck- 
ing, and  found  it  well  to  carry  an  umbrella;  for  in  the  enthusiasm 
of  the  game  the  waxen  balls  were  frequently  soon  consumed :  then 
came  into  play  s^Tinges,  basins,  bowls,  and  sometimes  pails  of 
water,  which  were  plied  without  mercy  until  the  parties  were 
thoroughly  drenched. 

Men  and  women  perched  themselves  along  the  balconies  and 
windows,  from  which  they  not  only  threw  at  each  other,  but  also 
at  the  passers-by.  So  great  indeed  were  the  excesses  which  grew 
out  of  this  sport  that  it  was  prohibited  by  law.  The  magis- 
trates of  the  different  districts  formally  declared  against  the 
Intrudo  from  year  to  year,  with  but  little  effect  until  1854,  when  a 
new  chef  de  police  with  great  energy  put  a  stop  to  the  violent 
Intrudo  and  its  peltings  and  duckings.  It  is  now  conducted  in  a 
dry  but  humorous  manner,  more  in  the  stj'le  of  Paris  and  Eome. 
The  origin  of  the  Intrudo  was  for  a  long  time  considered  to  have 
some  remote  connection  with  ba  ptism ;  but  Mr.  Ewbank  has  beon 


150  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

the  first  to  trace  clearly  its  beginnirig,  and  in  a  very  interesting 
archajological  article  follows  it  up  to  India,  that  storehouse  of 
many  of  the  practices  of  the  Latin  Chui'ch. 

The  procession  on  Ash-Wednesday  is  conducted  by  the  third 
order  of  Franciscans  from  the  Chapel  of  the  J\Iisericordia,  through 
tne  principal  streets  of  the  city,  to  the  Convent  of  S.Antonio. 
Not  less  than  from  twenty  to  thirty  stands  of  images  are  borne 
along  on  the  shoulders  of  men.  Some  of  these  images  are  single; 
others  are  in  groups,  intended  to  illustrate  various  events  of  scrip- 
tural history  or  Roman  Catholic  mythology.  The  dress  and  orna- 
ments of  these  effigies  are  of  the  most  gaudy  kind.  The  platforms 
upon  which  they  are  placed  are  quite  heavy,  requiring  four,  six, 
and  eight  men  to  carry  them;  nor  can  all  these  endure  the  burden 
for  a  long  time.  They  require  to  be  alternated  by  as  many  others, 
who  walk  by  their  side  like  extra  pall-bearers  at  a  funeral.  The 
streets  are  thronged  with  thousands  of  people,  among  whom  are 
numbers  of  slaves,  who  seem  highly  amused  to  see  their  masters 
for  once  engaged  in  hard  labor.  The  senhors  indeed  toil  under 
their  loads.  The  images  pass  into  the  middle  of  the  street,  with 
single  files  of  men  on  either  side,  each  one  bearing  a  lighted  torch 
or  wax  candle  several  feet  in  length.  Before  each  group  of  images 
marches  an  angel  {arxjinlio)  led  by  a  priest,  scattering  rose-leaves 
and  flowers  upon  the  path. 

As  the  reader  may  be  anxious  to  know  what  kind  of  angels  take 
part  in  these  spectacles,  I  must  explain  that  they  are  a  class  created 
for  the  occasion,  to  act  as  tutelary  to  the  saints  exhibited.  Little 
girls,  from  eight  to  ten  years  old,  are  generally  chosen  to  serve  in 
this  capacity-,  for  which  they  are  fitted  out  by  a  most  fantastic 
dress.  Its  leading  design  seems  to  be  to  exhibit  a  body  and  wings; 
wherefore  the  skirt  and  sleeves  are  expanded  to  enormous  dimen- 
sions, by  means  of  hoops  and  cane  framework,  over  which  flaunt 
silks,  gauzes,  ribbons,  laces,  tinsels,  and  plumes  of  diverse  coloi-s. 
On  their  head  is  placed  a  species  of  tiara.  Their  hair  hangs  in 
ringlets  down  their  faces  and  necks,  and  the  triumphal  air  with 
which  they  march  along  shows  that  they  fully  comprehend  the 
honor  they  enjoy  of  being  the  principal  objects  of  admiration. 

Military  companies  and  bands  of  martial  music  lead  and  close 
up  the  procession.     Its  march  is  measured  and  slow,  with  frequent 


The  Anjiniio. 


151 


pauses,  as  well  to  give  the  burdened  brethren  time  to  breathe, 
as  to  give  the  people  in  the  streets  and  windows  opportunity  to 
gaze  and  wonder.  Few 
seem  to  look  on  with  any 
very  elevated  emotions. 
All  could  see  the  same 
or  kindred  images  in 
the  churches  when  they 
please;  and,  if  the  design 
is  to  edify  the  people,  a 
less  troublesome  and  at 
the  same  time  moi'e  effec- 
tual mode  might  easily  bo 
adopted.  There  appears 
but  little  solemnity  con- 
nected with  the  scene, 
and  most  of  that  is  shared 
by  the  poor  brethren  who 
tug  and  sweat  under 
the  platforms :  even  they 
occasionally  endeavor  to 
enliven  each  other's  sjDirits 
by  entering  into  conversa- 
tion and  pleasantr}'  when 
relieved  by  their  alter- 
nates. 

When  the  Host  is  carried  out  on  these  and  other  occasions,  but  a 
small  proportion  of  the  people  are  seen  to  kneel  as  it  passes,  and 
no  compulsion  is  used  when  any  are  disinclined  to  manifest  that 
deirree  of  reverence.* 


THE       ANJINHO. 


*  In  1852  John  Candler  and  Wilson  Burgess,  two  philanthropic  Englishmen 
belonging  to  the  Society  of  Friends,  went  to  Brazil  for  the  purpose  of  presenting 
to  the  Emperor  "an  address  on  slavery  and  the  slave-trade."  Their  singular  cos- 
tume attracted  much  notice  in  the  streets ;  "  and  on  one  occasion,"  they  say  in  their 
narrative,  "as  we  were  walking  in  the  Rua  Direita,  a  Brazilian  gentleman  accosted 
us  in  imperfect  English,  informing  us  that  he  had  been  in  England,  and  knew  the 
Quakers.  'They  [the  Brazilians]  ask  me,'  he  continued,  'who  you  arc;  I  tell 
them  Friends, — very  good  people.'     Finding  him  disposed  to  be  familiar,  we  told 


152  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

No  class  enter  into  the  spirit  of  these  holiday  parades  with  more 
zeal  than  the  people  of  color.  They  are,  moreover,  specially 
complimented  from  time  to  time  by  the  aj^pearance  of  a  colored 
saint,  or  of  Nossa  Senhora  under  an  ebony  skin,  "ia  vem  o  meu 
parerde,''  (There  comes  my  kindred,)  was  the  exclamation  heard 
by  Dr.  Kidder  from  an  old  negro,  as  a  colored  effig}-,  with  woolly 
hair  and  thick  lips,  came  in  sight;  and  in  the  overflow  of  his  joy 
the  old  man  had  expi-essed  the  precise  sentiment  that  is  addressed 
by  such  appeals  to  the  senses  and  feelings  of  the  Africans. 

Palm  Sunday  in  Brazil  is  celebrated  with  a  taste  and  effect  that 
cannot  be  surpassed  by  any  artificial  ornaments.  The  Brazilians 
are  never  indifferent  to  the  vegetable  beauties  by  which  they  are 
surrounded,  since  they  make  use  of  leaves,  flowers,  and  branches 
of  trees  on  almost  every  public  occasion ;  but  on  this  anniversary 
the  displa}'  of  the  real  palm-branches  is  not  ovXj  beautiful,  but 
often  grand. 

Holy  Week,  by  which  Lent  is  terminated,  is  chiefly  devoted  to 
religious  services  designed  to  commemorate  the  history  of  our 
Lord;  but  so  modified  by  traditions,  and  mystified  by  the  excess  of 
ceremonies,  that  few,  by  means  of  these,  can  form  ojij  proper 
idea  of  what  really  took  place  before  the  crucifixion  of  Christ. 
The  days  are  designed  in  the  calendar  as  Wednesday  of  darkness, 
Thursday  of  anguish,  Friday  of  passion,  and  Hallelujah  Saturday. 

Maunday  Thui'sday,  as  the  English  render  it,  is  kept  from  the 
noon  of  that  day  till  the  following  noon.  The  ringing  of  bells  and 
the  explosion  of  rockets  are  now  suspended.  The  light  of  day  is 
excluded  from  all  the  churches;  the  temj)les  are  illuminated  within 


him  we  were  seeking  the  National  Library.  '  I  will  go  with  you,'  he  said.  Taking 
us  by  the  arm,  he  took  us  by  a  narrow  paved  court-way  which  we  had  just  avoided. 
A  Roman  Catholic  church,  in  which  high  mass  was  performing,  opened  by  its 
principal  entrance  into  the  court,  and  a  number  of  persons  stood  bareheaded  before 
the  doors.  We  requested  him  not  to  take  us  that  way,  as  we  could  not  take  oif 
our  hats  in  honor  of  the  service,  and  we  desired  not  to  give  offence.  'Nevermind,' 
was  his  rejoinder;  'leave  that  to  me.'  On  coming  to  the  people  he  took  oflF  his 
Dwn  hat,  and  as  we  passed  through  them  he  said,  '  These  are  my  friends ;  you 
must  give  dispensation  ;'  and  we  were  suflFered  to  go  on  without  molestation.  Such 
dispensation  is  not  permitted  in  Portugal." — Narrative  of  a  recent  visit  to  Brazil  by 
John  Candler  and  Wilson  Burgess.     London,  1853:  Edward  Marsh 


An  Imposing  Procession.  153 

by  wax  tapers,  in  tho  midst  of  which,  on  the  chief  altars,  the  Host 
is  exposed.  Two  men  stand  in  robes  of  red  or  purple  silk  to  watch 
it.  In  some  churches  the  effigy  of  the  body  of  Christ  is  laid  under 
a  small  cloister,  with  one  hand  exposed,  which  tho  crowd  kiss, 
depositing  mone}'  on  a  silver  dish  beside  it  at  the  same  time.  At 
night  the  people  promenade  the  streets  and  visit  the  churches. 
This  is  also  an  occasion  for  a  general  interchange  of  presents,  and 
is  turned  greatly  to  the  benefit  of  the  female  slaves,  who  are 
allowed  to  pi*epare  and  sell  confectionery  for  their  own  emolument. 
Friday  continues  silent,  and  a  funeral-procession,  bearing  a  repre- 
sentation of  the  body  of  Christ,  is  borne  through  the  streets.  At 
night  occurs  a  sermon,  and  another  procession,  in  which  anjlnhos, 
decked  out  as  has  already  been  described,  bear  emblematic  devices 
alluding  to  the  crucifixion.  One  carries  the  nails,  another  the  ham- 
mer, a  third  the  sponge,  a  fourth  the  spear,  a  fifth  the  ladder,  and 
a  sixth  the  cock  that  gave  the  warning  to  Peter.  Never  are  the 
balconies  more  crowded  than  on  this  occasion.  There  is  an  interest 
to  behold  one's  own  children  performing  a  part,  which  draws  out 
hundreds  of  families  who  otherwise  might  remain  at  home.  There 
is  no  procession  more  beautiful  and  imposing  than  this.  As  I  gazed 
at  the  long  line  of  the  gown-clad  men,  bearing  in  one  hand  an  im- 
mense torch,  and  leading  by  the  other  a  brightly-decked  anjinho, — 
as  from  time  to  time  I  saw  the  images  of  those  who  were  active  or 
silent  sjDectators  of  that  sad  scene  which  was  presented  on  Calvary 
eighteen  hundred  years  ago, — as  I  beheld  the  soldiers,  helmet  in 
hand  and  their  arms  reversed,  marching  with  slow  and  measured 
tread, — as  I  heard  the  solemn  chant  issuing  from  the  voice  of  child- 
hood, or  as  the  majestic  minor  strains  of  the  marche  fiinebre  wailed 
upon  the  night-air, — the  aBsthetic  feelings  were  powerfully  moved. 
But  when  a  halt  occurred,  and  I  witnessed  the  levity  and  the  utter 
indifference  of  the  actors,  the  effect  on  myself  vanished,  and  I 
could  at  once  see  that  the  intended  effect  upon  the  multitudes  in 
the  street  and  in  the  neighboring  balconies  was  entirely  lost.* 

*  In  Brazil,  all  veneration  is  taken  away  by  the  familiarity  of  the  most  sacred 
things  of  our  holy  religion.  At  Bahia  I  learned,  through  a  number  of  Roman  Ca- 
tholic gentlemen,  of  an  occurrence  which  took  place  in  1855,  in  the  province  of 
Sergipe  del  Rey.     It  was  at  a  festival,  and  there  was  to  be  a  powerful  sex'mon 


154 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


Hallelujah  Saturday  is  better  known  as  "  Judas's  day,"  on  account 
of  the  numerous  forms  in  which  that  "inglorious  patriarch"  is 
made  to  suffer  the  vengeance  of  the  people.  Preparations  having 
been  made  beforehand,  rockets  are  fired  in  front  of  the  churches  at 
a  particular  stage  of  the  morning  service.  This  explosion  indicates 
that  the  hallelujah  is  being  chanted.  The  sport  now  begins  forth- 
with in  every  part  of  the  town.  The  efiigies  of  poor  Judas  become 
the  objects  of  all  species  of  torment.  They  are  hung,  strangled,  and 
drowned.  In  short,  the  traitor  is  shown  up  in  fireworks  and  fan- 
tastic figures  of  every  desci'iption,  in  company  with  dragons, 
serpents,  and  the  devil  and  his  imps,  which  pounce  upon  him. 


KILLING     JUDAS. 


Besides  the  more  formal  and  expensive  preparations  that  are 
made  for  this  celebration  by  public  subscrij^tion,  the  boys  and  the 
negroes  have  their  Judases,  whom  they  do  feloniously  and  mali- 


pi'eached  on  the  crucifixion.  A  civilized  Indian,  by  the  promise  of  muila  cacha^a, 
(plenty  of  rum,)  consented  to  personify  our  Saviour  on  the  cross.  His  position 
was  a  trying  one,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  crucifix  stood  a  bucket  filled  with  rum, 
in  which  was  a  sponge  attached  to  a  long  reed.  The  individual  whose  duty  it 
was  to  refresh  the  caboclo  forgot  his  office  while  carried  away  by  the  florid  elo- 
quence of  the  Padre.  The  Indian,  however,  did  not  forget  his  contract,  and,  to  tho 
"istonishment  as  well  as  amusement  of  the  audience,  shouted  out,  "  0  Senhor  Judeo^ 
Senhor  Judeio,  mats  fell"   (0  Mr.  Jew,  Mister  Jew,  a  little  more  gall!) 


Collections  and  Collectors. 


155 


if.  If)*, 


ciously  drag  about  with  ropes,  liang^  beat,  punch,  stone,  burn,  and 
drown,  to  their  hearts'  content. 

Lent  being-  over,  Easter  Sunday  is  ushered  in  b}'  the  quick  and 
joyous  strains  of  music  from  fine  bands  or  large  orchestras;  by 
illuminating  the  churches  with  unwonted  splendor;  and  by  the 
triumphal  discharge  of  rockets  in  the  air,  and  of  artillery  from  the 
forts  a  ad  batteries. 

On  Whitsunday  the  great  feast  of  the  Holy  Spirit  is  celebrated. 
In  preparation  for  this,  begging-processions  go  through  the  streets, 
a  long  while  in  advance,  in  order  to  secure  funds.  In  these  expedi- 
tions the  collectors  wear  a  red  scarf  (capo)  over  their  shoulders : 
they  make  quite  a  display  of  flags,  on  which  forms  of  a  dove  are 
embroidei-ed,  surrounded  by  a  halo  or  gloria.  These  are  handed  in 
at  windows  and  doors,  and  waved  to  individuals  to  kiss:  they  are 
followed  by  the  silver  plate 
or  silk  bag,  which  receives 
the  donation  that  is  ex- 
])ected  from  all  those,  at 
least,  \\  ho  kiss  the  emblem. 
The  public  are  duly  no- 
tified of  ihe  approacli  of 
these  august  personages 
by  the  music  of  a  band  of 
tatterdemalion  negroes,  or 
by  the  songs  and  tambour- 
ine accompaniments  of 
sprightly  boys  who  some- 
times carry  the  banner. 

Collections  of  this  stamp 
are  very  frequent  in  the 
cities  of  Brazil,  inasmuch 
as  some  festa  is  always  in 
anticipation.  Generally  a 
miniature  image  of  the 
saint  whose  honor  is  con- 
templated is  handed  around 

with  much  formality,  as  the  great  argument  in  favor  of  a  donation 
The  devotees  hasten  to  kiss  the  image,  and  sometimes  call  up  their 


COLLECTORS  FOR  CHURCH  FESTIVALS. 


156  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

children  and  pass  it  round  to  the  lips  of  each.  These  collectors, 
and  a  class  of  females  called  beatas,  at  times  become  as  troublesome 
as  were  the  common  beggars  before  they  were  accommodated  at 
the  House  of  Correction.  Occasionally  but  one  or  two  of  these  indi- 
viduals go  around,  crying  out,  with  a  most  nasal  twang,  in  the  street 
and  at  every  corner,  "  Esmolas  [alms]  para  nossa  Senhora"  of  this 
or  that  church.     (1866,  this  begging  is  greatly  curtailed.) 

On  the  preceding  page  we  behold  a  pair  of  these  semi-ecclesi- 
astic gentlemen-beggars  who  may  be  seen  returning  along  the  Praia 
da  Santa  Luzia  after  one  of  their  collecting-excursions. 

The  expeditions  for  Espirito  Santo  assume  a  very  peculiar  and 
grotesque  character  in  remote  sections  of  the  Empire.  The  late 
Senator  Cuuha  Mattos  describes  them,  in  the  interior,  under  the 
Xiame  of  fulioes  cavalgadas.  He  mentions  in  his  Itinerario  having 
met  one  between  the  rivers  of  S.  Francisco  and  Paranahiba,  com- 
posed of  fifty  persons,  playing  on  violins,  drums,  and  other  instru- 
ments of  music,  to  arouse  the  liberality  if  not  the  devotion  of  the 
people;  and  also  prepared  with  leathern  sacks  and  mules,  to  re- 
ceive and  carry  off  pigs,  hens,  and  whatever  else  might  be  given 
them. 

Among  the  Indians  in  the  distant  interior,  the  live  animals  are 
frequently  promised  beforehand  to  some  particular  saint;  and  often, 
when  a  traveller  wishes  to  buy  some  provisions,  he  is  assured,  "  That 
is  St.  John's  pig;"  or,  "Those  fowls  belong  to  the  Holy  Ghost." 

The  procession  of  Corpus  Christi  is  different  from  most  of  the 
others.  The  only  image  exposed  is  that  of  St.  George,  who  is  set 
down  in  the  calendar  as  the  "defender  of  the  Empire."  How  this 
"godly  gentleman  of  Cappadocia"  became  the  defender  of  Brazil 
I  have  not  been  able  to  ascertain ;  but  his  festival — falling  as  it 
does  on  Corpus  Christi  day — is  celebrated  with  great  pomp.  It  is 
a  daylight  affair,  and  occurs  in  the  pleasantest  season  of  the  year. 
St.  George  is  always  carried  around  the  city  on  horseback.  He  is 
ruddy  and  of  a  fair  countenance,  with  a  flowing  wig  of  flaxen  curls 
floating  on  his  shoulders.  He  flourishes  in  armour  and  a  red  velvet 
mantle.  For  the  day  some  devout  person  of  his  name  lends  the 
saint  his  jewels;  but  when  the  festival  is  over  he  is  stripped  of  his 
glories  and  put  away  for  the  moths  till  the  following  year.  He  is 
not  remarkable  for  his  horsemanship:  his  stiff  legs  stick  out  on 


Santa  Priscilliana. 


157 


^0 


each  side,  and  two  men  hold  him  to  the  saddle.  If  his  prototyjie 
had  been  no  better  equestrian,  the  dragon  would  have  been  un- 
killed  to  the  present  day. 

The  Emperor  walks  bareheaded,  and  carrying  a  candle,  in  this 
procession,  in  imitation  of  the  piety  of  his  ancestors,  and  is  attended 
by  tlie  Courtjthecavalhciros,  orknights  of  the  military  orders,  and 
the  municipal  chamber  in  full  dress,  with  their  insignia  and  badges 
of  office.  Whenever  the  Emperor  goes  out  on  these  occasions,  the 
inhabitants  of  the  streets  through  which  he  is  to  pass  rival  each 
other  in  the  display  of  rich  silk  and  damask  hangings  from  the 
windows  and  balustrades  of  their  houses. 

In  1846,  a  certain  Brazilian  had  the  distinguished  honor  of  trans- 
porting from  Eome  to  Eio 
the  holy  remains  of  the 
martyr-virgin  St.  Priscil- 
liana. This  was  deemed  a 
most  auspicious  acquisition 
for  the  city  by  some,  but 
by  othei-s  it  was  highly 
condemned  as  an  egregious 
humbug.  Nevertheless,  she 
was  inaugurated.  In  order 
that  the  bones  might  not 
appear  as  repulsive  as  those 
of  the  renowned  "eleven 
thousand  virgins"  in  the 
Church  of  St.  Ursula  at 
Cologne,  the  frail  remains 
of  St.  Priscilliana  were  en- 
cased in  wax  by  some  clever 
artist  at  Rome  at  the  time 
her  saintship  was  said  to 
have  been  removed  from 
the  catacombs  where  she 
had  been  buried  more  than 
a  thousand  years  ! 

St.  Priscilliana's  likeness  was  engraved,  and  the  picture  was 
"  exchanged}"  and  the  above  engraving  is  a  fac-simile  of  the  one 


SANTA       PRISCILLIANA. 


158  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

"exchanged"  while  I  resided  in  Pdo  de  Janeiro.  She  is  represented 
with  a  sword  stuck  unpleasantly  through  her  delicate  neck,  which 
meanS;  as  the  Bishop  of  Eio  de  Janeiro*  hath  it,  that  the  Emperor 
Julian  the  Apostate  had  her  put  to  death  in  this  manner !  The 
erudite  bishop  does  not  give  us  any  of  his  authorities;  but  the  faithful 
are  expected  never  to  entertain  the  least  doubt  when  a  high  prelate 
Bpeaks.  I  know  not  what  miracles  she  has  performed  at  Eio,  for 
very  little  is  heard  concerning  her  at  present,  and  it  is  certain  that 
she  did  not  prevent  the  yellow  fever  and  cholera  from  visiting  the 
capital  of  the  Empire.  It  may,  however,  be  asserted,  on  the  other 
hand,  that  this  was  not  the  department  of  St.  Priscilliana;  as  St. 
Sebastian  is  supposed  to  have  the  city  under  his  especial  charge. 

When  the  cholera  visited  the  coast  of  Brazil,  though  not  so  fatal 
as  in  Europe  and  the  United  States,  yet  its  ravages  were  somewhat 
extensive  among  the  slaves,  who  had  escaped  the  yellow  fever 
which  in  former  years  had  attacked  the  whites.  When  the  cholera 
made  its  appearance  at  Eio,  the  city  was  in  a  universal  wail 
of  terror:  charms  and  amulets  were  eagerly  sought  after,  and 
superstitious  preventives  were  invented  every  hour.  Prayers  of 
saints  were  worn  next  to  the  skin,  as  the}'  are  among  the  Moham- 
medans of  Arabia  or  the  heathen  of  India.  Badly-executed  pic- 
tures of  St.  Sebastian  were  ^'exchanged"  for  a  few  vintems,  and  a 
Btar,  with  a  prayer  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  called  ''The  miraculous 
Star  of  Heaven,"  was  considered  a  certain  safeguard  to  any  person 
who  possessed  it.  Advertisements  like  the  following  appeared  in 
the  daily  papers : — 

ORACAO  PARA  BENZER  AS  CASaI 

contra  a  epidemia  reinante,  oi-nada  de  emblemas  religiosos, 
troca-se  por  80  rs.,  na  Rua  dos  Latoeiros  n.  59. 

"J.  Prayer  for  blessing  residences  against  the  reigning  epidemic, 
adorned  with  religious  emblems,  is  exchanged  for  four  cents  at  !No. 
59  Eua  dos  Latoeiros." 

*  Pastoral  letter  published  March,  1846,  at  Rio  de  Janeiro.  Also  Noticia  Hisiorica 
da  Santa  Priscilliana  in  the  Annuario  do  Brazil  for  1846. 


Panic  fiiom  the  Cholera.  159 

The  succeeding  announcement,  however,  must  have  been  from 
some  money-making  fellow  without  church-policy  in  his  head, 
or  he  would  have  advertised  his  holy  ware  as  troca-se  instead 
of  vende-se. 


PALAVRAS   SANTISSiMAS 


contra  o  terrivel  flagello  da  peste,  com  a  qual  se  tem  appla- 
cado  a  Divina  Justi5a,  como  se  vio  no  caso  que  succedeu  no 
real  mosteiro  de  Santa  Clara  de  Coimbra  em  1480.  Vendc-se 
na  Rua  da  Quitanda  n.  174.     Pre90,  320  rs. 


[Translation.]  ^^Ilost  holy  words  and  arms  of  the  Church  against 
the  terrible  scoui'ge  of  the  pest,  with  which  Divine  Justice  chas- 
tises, as  seen  in  the  case  which  succeeded  in  the  ro3"al  monastery 
of  St.  Claire  of  Coimbra  in  1480.  To  be  sold  at  No.  174  Eua  da 
Quitanda.     Price,  16  cents." 

What  Dr.  Paulo  Candido,  Dr.  Meirelles,  Dr.  Sigaud,  Dr.  Pacheco 
da  Silva,  and  other  eminent  physicians,  thought  of  such  remedies 
we  know  not;  but  we  believe  that  both  they  and  many  of  the 
people  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  looked  uj)on  this  religious  quackery  in  the 
right  light.  Nevertheless,  there  was,  in  the  general  alarm,  a  great 
summoning  of  the  church  militant,  and  the  newspapers  of  Septem- 
ber, 1855,  are  full  of  long-sentenced  notices  of  penitential  proces- 
sions. 

Such  appeals  to  the  faithful  were  not  in  vain.  The  images  were 
removed  and  carried  through  the  streets;  and  torchlight-proces- 
sions of  immense  length — in  which  marched  delicate  ladies  bare- 
foot— were  of  frequent  occurrence.  With  all  these  precautions,  the 
pestilence  did  not  cease,  though  business  went  on  as  usual.  Common 
sense,  however,  had  not  left  Eio,  notwithstanding  the  panic  which 
prevailed.  The  secular  authorities,  urged  on  by  the  able  editor  of 
the  principal  newspaper  of  the  city,  at  last  forbade  all  processions, 
as  the  exposure  consequent  thereon  tended  to  promote  the  spread 


160  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

of  disease;  so  the  saints  had  no  more  promenades  by  lamplight, 
and  the  young  ladies  kept  their  bare  feet  at  home. 

It  is  pleasing  to  contemplate  at  this  crisis  the  conduct  of  the 
monarch.  The  Emperor  and  his  family  remained  at  their  palace 
near  the  city,  in  order  to  inspirit  the  people,  although  it  was  the 
usual  time  of  removal  to  their  mountain-residence  of  Petropolis. 
His  Majesty  visited  the  hospitals,  and  superintended  the  sanatory 
regulations,  besides  contributing  largely  to  the  fund  for  the  sick 
poor. 

We  cannot  devote  more  space  to  religion  in  Brazil, — this  interest- 
ing but  painful  subject, — painful  to  every  true  Christian  and  well- 
wisher  to  his  race.  If  we  look  at  Brazil  in  the  point  de  vue  religieuse, 
we  are  overwhelmed  at  the  amount  of  ignorance  and  superstition 
that  prevails.  Let  any  one  read  Mr.  Ewbank's  Sketches,  and, they 
will  see,  archseologically  considered,  how  close  is  the  relation  be- 
tween heathen  Eome  and  Christian  Eome.  If  we  grant  that  this 
corrupt  church  at  one  time  \v,A  the  only  light  and  knowledge, 
there  is  no  necessity  that  we  should  remain  in  modified  darkness 
or  use  the  glimmer  of  lamplight  when  we  may  have  the  clear  efful- 
gence of  the  noonday  sun.     May  that  light  beam  upon  Brazil! 

Note  for  1SG6. — There  are  several  native  Protestant  churches  now  in  Brazil. 
The  regularly  ordained  pastors  of  these  churches  are  legally  authorized  to  per- 
form the  marriage  ceremony.  The  clause  of  the  constitution  in  regard  to  religious 
toleration  has  been  fully  tested  on  three  different  occasions,  and  is  shown  to  be 
a  "living  letter." — The  Imprensa  Evangelica  is  the  bi-monthly  religious  journal 
of  the  Protestants  at  Rio,  and  is  reasonably  successful.  Several  faithful  preachers 
of  the  gospel  from  Europe  and  North  America  are  now  laboring  with  encouraging 
success.  In  Appendix  I  will  be  found  a  remarkable  article  from  the  Roman 
Catholic  editor  of  the  "Anglo-Brazilian  Times,"  on  the  necessity  of  removing 
from  Brazilian  law  disabilities  in  regard  to  civil  and  mixed  marriages,  and  to 
Protestant  representation  in  Parliament. 


CUAVTER  X. 

TJIE    nOME-FEKLING BRAZILIAN     HOUSES THE     GIKL THE    WIFE THE     MOTHER — 

MOORISH    JEALOUSY — DOMESTIC    DUTIES — MILK-CART  ON  LEGS BRAZILIAN  LADY'S 

DELIGHT — HER    TROUBLES THE    MARKETING    AND    WATERING — KILL    THE    SLYO 

BOSTON     APPLES    AND     ICE FAMILY     RECREATIONS THE     BOY THE    COLLEGIO 

COMMON-SCHOOLS HIGHEST    ACADEMIES  OF  LEARNING THE  GENTLEMAN DUTIES 

OF    THE    CITIZEN ELECTIONS POLITICAL     PARTIES BRAZILIAN    STATESMEN — NO- 
BILITY—  ORDERS    OF    KNIGHTHOOD. 

The  German,  the  Englishman,  and  their  descendants,  have  no 
characteristic  more  marked  than  the  home-feeling.  The  fireside- 
circle,  with  its  joys  and  cares,  does  not  helong  to  the  Gaul  or  to  the 
Italian.  The  Southern  European  has  much  in  his  delicious  climate 
to  make  him  an  out-of-door  heing.  The  old  Eoman  was  one  who 
lived  in  public.  His  existence  seemed  to  be  a  portion  of  the  forum, 
the  public  bath,  the  circus,  and  the  theatre.  "Without  books,  maga- 
zines, and  newspapers,  without  letters  to  write,  and  witli  a  fine 
climate  always  attracting  him  into  the  open  air,  there  was  nothing 
to  call  him  homo  but  the  requisitions  of  eating  and  sleeping." 
The  city  of  Pompeii  probably  contained  not  more  than  twenty-five 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  only  one-sixth  of  its  space  has  been  ex- 
humed. In  that  small  district  there  have  been  found  public  edifices 
merely  for  theatrical  entertainment,  which  will  seat  seventeen 
thousand  spectators.  Most  of  the  nations  descended  from  the  Ro- 
mans are,  like  them,  without  the  endearing  associations  connected 
with  the  word  home.  There  is,  however,  an  important  exception 
to  this  rule  in  the  case  of  the  Portuguese  nation,  which  in  every 
other  respect  is  more  Eoman  than  any  living  people.  The  home 
and  the  family  exist;  and  doubtless  the  Lusitanians  owe  this  to  the 
Moors,  who  engrafted  upon  the  Latin  stock  something  of  Oriental 
exclusiveness.  The  Portuguese  and  their  American  descendants 
to  this  day  watch  with  a  jealous  eye  their  private  abodes,  and, 

spending  many  of  their  hours  within  those  precincts  which  are 

11  161 


162 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


their  castles,  the  home-attachments  and  family  associations  have 
been  cherished  and  perpetuated. 

1  propose  in  this  chapter  to  consider  the  residence  and  the  family, 
— to  trace  the  education  of  the  children  to  that  age  when  they  go 
forth  to  occupy  the  position  of  adult  j'ears. 

The  city-home  is  not  an  attractive  place;  for  the  carriage-house 
and  stable  are  upon  the  first  floor,  while  the  parlor,  the  alcoves,  and 

the   kitchen  are  in   the  second 
_  story.    Not  unfrequently  a  small 

area  or  court-yard  occupies  the 
space  between  the  coach-house 
and  the  stable,  and  this  space 
separates,  on  the  second  floor,  the 
kitchen  from  the  dining-room. 

The  engraving  represents  one 

of  the    older  city-residences  at 

Eio.     The  access  to  the  staircase 

is  through  the  great  door  whence 

the    carriage    thunders   out   on 

festas  and  holidays.    At  night  it 

is  shut  by  iron  bars  of  prison-like 

dimensions.      Every   lock,  bolt, 

or  mechanical  contrivance  seem 

as  if  they  might  have  come  from 

the  Pompeiian  department  of  the  Museo  Borbonico  at  Naples.    The 

walls,  composed  of  broken  bits  of  stone  cemented  by  common  mortar, 

are  as  thick  as  those  of  a  fortress. 

In  the  daytime  you  enter  the  great  door  and  stand  at  the 
bottom  of  the  staircase;  but  neither  knocker  nor  bell  announce 
your  presence.  You  clap  your  hands  rapidly  together;  and, 
unless  the  family  is  of  the  highest  class,  you  are  sure  to  be  saluted 
b}^  a  slave  from  the  top  of  the  stairs  with  "Quein  e?"  (\Yh()  is 
there?)  If  you  should  behold  your  friends  in  the  balcony,  you  not 
only,  if  intimate,  salute  by  removing  the  hat,  but  move  quickly 
the  fingers  of  your  hand,  as  if  you  were  beckoning  to  some  one. 

The  furniture  of  the  parlor  varies  in  costliness  according  to  the 
degree  of  style  maintained;  but  what  you  may  always  expect  to 
find  is  a  cane-bottomed  sofa  at  one  extremity  and  three  or  four 


OLDER    BRAZILIAN     DWELLING-HOUSE. 


Ladies  and  Music.  163 

chairs  arranged  in  precise  parallel  roAVS,  extending  from  each  end 
of  it  toward  the  middle  of  the  room.  In  company  the  ladies  are 
expected  to  occupy  the  sofa  and  the  gentlemen  the  chairs. 

The  town-residences  in  the  old  city  always  seemed  to  me  gloomy 
beyond  description.  But  the  same  cannot  be  said  of  the  new 
houses,  and  of  the  lovely  suburban  villas,  with  their  surroundings 
of  embowering  foliage,  profusion  of  flowers,  and  overhanging 
fruits.  Some  portions  of  the  Santa  Theresa,  Laraiigeiras,  Bota- 
fogo,  Catumby,  Engenho  Velho,  Praia  Grande,  and  San  Domingo, 
cannot  be  surpassed  for  beautiful  and  picturesque  houses.  I  cite 
])articularly  the  homes  of  M.  Maximo  de  Souza,  and  Mr.  Ginty. ' 

There  are  various  classes  of  society  in  Brazil  as  well  as  else- 
where, and  the  description  of  one  would  not  hold  good  for  another; 
but,  having  sketched  the  house,  I  shall  next  endeavor  to  trace  the 
inmates  from  infancy  to  adult  life. 

The  Brazilian  mother  almost  invariably  gives  her  inflmt  to  a 
bhack  to  be  nursed.  As  soon  as  the  children  become  too  trouble- 
some for  the  comfort  of  the  senhora,  they  are  despatched  to  school;  ■ 
and  woe  betide  the  poor  teachers  who  have  to  break  in  those  viva- 
cious specimens  of  humanity  !  Accustomed  to  control  their  black 
nurses,  and  to  unlimited  indulgence  from  their  parents,  they  set 
their  minds  to  work  to  contrive  every  method  of  baffling  the 
efforts  made  to  reduce  them  to  order.  This  does  not  arise  from 
malice,  but  from  want  of  parental  discipline.  They  are  affectionate 
and  placable,  though  impatient  and  passionate, — full  of  intelligence, 
though  extremely  idle  and  incapable  of  prolonged  attention.  They 
readily  catch  a  smattering  of  knowledge  :  French  and  Italian  are 
easy  to  them,  as  cognate  tongues  with  their  own.  Music,  sing- 
ing, and  dancing  suit  their  volatile  temperaments;  and  I  have 
rarely  heard  better  amateur  Italian  singing  than  in  Eio  de  Janeiro 
and  Bahia.  Pianos  abound  in  every  street,  and  both  sexes  become 
adept  performers.  The  opera  is  maintained  by  the  Government, 
as  it  is  in  Europe,  and  the  first  musicians  go  to  Brazil.  Thalberg 
triumphed  at  Eio  de  Janeiro  before  he  came  to  New  York.  The 
manners  and  address  of  Brazilian  ladies  are  good,  and  their  carriage 
is  graceful.  It  is  true  that  they  have  no  fund  of  varied  knowledge 
to  make  a  conversation  agreeable  and  instructive;  but  they  chatter 
nothings  in  a  pleasant  way,  always  excepting  a  rather  high  tone 


164  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

of  voice,  which  I  suppose  comes  from  frequent  commands  given  to 
Congo  or  Mozambique.  Their  literary  stores  consist  mostly  of  the 
novels  of  Balzac,  Eugene  Sue,  Dumas  pere  et  fils,  George  Sand,  the 
gossipping  pacotilhas  and  the  folhetins  of  the  newspapers.  Thns 
they  fit  themselves  to  become  wives  and  mothers. 

Dr.  P.  da  S ,  a  gentleman  who  takes  a  deep  interest  in  all 

matters  of  education,  and  whose  ideas  are  j)ractically  and  success- 
fully applied  to  his  own  children,  who  possess  solid  acquirements 
as  well  as  graceful  accomplishments,  once  said  to  me,  "I  desire  with 
all  my  heart  to  see  the  day  Avhen  our  schools  for  girls  will  be  of 
such  a  character  that  a  Brazilian  daughter  can  be  prepared,  by  her 
moral  and  intellectual  training,  to  become  a  worthy  mother,  capable 
of  teaching  her  own  children  the  elements  of  education  and  the 
duties  which  they  owe  to  God  and  man  :  to  this  end,  sir,  I  am 
toiling."  Such  schools  are  increasing,  and  some  are  very  excel- 
lent; but,  in  eight  cases  out  often,  the  Brazilian  father  thinks  that 
he  has  done  his  duty  when  he  has  sent  his  daughter  for  a  few  years 
to  a  fashionable  school  kept  by  some  foreigner  :  at  thirteen  or  four- 
teen he  withdraws  her,  believing  that  her  education  is  finished. 
If  wealthy,  she  is  already  arranged  for  life,  and  in  a  little  time  thie 
father  presents  to  his  daughter  some  friend  of  his  own,  with  the 
soothing  remark,  "Minha  filha,  this  is  your  future  husband."  A 
view  of  diamonds,  laces,  and  carriages  dazzles  her  mental  vision, 
she  stifles  the  small  portion  of  heart  that  may  be  left  her,  and 
quietly  acquiesces  in  her  father's  arrangement,  probably  consoling 
herself  with  the  reflection  that  it  will  not  be  requisite  to  give  her 
undivided  affections  to  the  affianced  companion, — -that  near  resem- 
blance of  her  grandfather.  Now  the  parents  are  at  ease.  The 
care  of  watching  that  ambitious  young  lady  devolves  on  her  hus- 
band, and  thenceforth  he  alone  is  responsible.  He,  poor  man, 
having  a  just  sense  of  his  own  unfitness  for  such  a  task,  places 
some  antique  relative  as  a  duenna  to  the  young  bride,  and  then 
goes  to  his  counting-house  in  happy  security.  At  night  he  returns 
and  takes  her  to  the  opera,  there  to  exhibit  the  prize  that  his  contos* 

*  A  conto  of  reis  is  one  thousand  mili-eis, — equal  to  five  hundred  dollars.  The 
Brazilian  never  reckons  a  man's  wealth  by  saying,  "  He  is  worth  so  many  thousand 
milreis;"  but,  "He  has  so  many  conlos." 


The  Wife  and  Mother. 


165 


have  gfiined,  and  to  receive  the  congratulations  of  his  friends  on 
the  lovely  young  wife  that  he  has  bought.  "'Tis  an  old  tale;" 
and  Brazil  has  not  a  monopoly  of  such  marria,q[es. 

Then  the  same  round  of  errors  recommences  :  her  children  feel 
the  effects  of  the  very  system  that  has  rendered  the  mother  a 
frivolous  and  outward  being.  She  sallies  forth  on  Sundays  and 
festas,  arm-in-arm  with  her  husband  or  brother,  the  children  pre- 
ceding, according  to  their  age,  all  dressed  in  black  silk,  with  neck 
and  arms  generallj^  bare,  or  at  most  a  light  scarf  or  cape  thrown 
over  them,  their  luxui-iant  hair   beautifully  arranged   and   orna- 


GOING      TO      MASS. 


mented,  and  sometimes  covered  with  a  black  lace  veil  :  prayer- 
book  in  hand,  they  thus  proceed  to  church.  Mass  being  duly  gone 
through  and  a  contribution  dropped  into  the  poor-box,  they  return 
home  in  the  same  order  as  before. 

It  is  often  matter  of  surprise  to  Northerners  how  the  Brazilian 
ladies  can  support  the  ra3's  of  that  unclouded  sun.  Europeans 
glide  along  under  the  shade  of  bonnets  and  umbrellas;  but  these 
church-going  groups  pass  on  without  appearing  to  suffer.  The 
bonnet  is,  however,  becoming  the  prevailing  mode. 

You  remark,  in  these  black-robed,  small-waisted  young  ladies,  a 
contrast  to  the  ample  dame  who  follows  them.    A  Brazilian  matron 


166  Brazil  axd  the  Brazilians. 

generally  waxes  Avondrously  broad  in  a  few  years, — probably  owing 
to  the  absence  of  out-door  exercise,  of  which  the  national  habits 
deprive  her.  It  cannot  be  attributed  to  any  want  of  temperance.; 
for  we  must  always  remember  that  Brazilian  ladies  rarely  take 
wine  or  any  stimulant.  On  "  state  occasions,"  when  healths  are 
drunk,  they  only  touch  it  for  form's  sake.  During  many  years  of 
residence,  I  cannot  recall  a  single  instance  of  a  lady  being  even 
suspected  of  such  a  vice,  which,  in  their  eyes,  is  the  most  horrible 
i-eproach  that  can  be  cast  upon  the  character.  Estd  bebado,  (He  is 
drunk,) — pronounced  in  the  high  and  almost  scolding  pitch  of  a 
Brazilian  woman, — is  one  of  the  severest  and  most  withering  re- 
proaches. In  some  parts  of  the  country  the  expression  for  a  dram 
is  um  baeta  Inglez,  (an  English  overcoat ;)  and  the  term  for  an  in- 
toxicated fellow,  in  the  northern  provinces,  is  Mle  estd  bem  Inglez, 
(He  is  very  English.)  The  contrast  between  the  general  sobriet}'  of 
all  classes  of  Brazilians  and  the  steady  drinking  of  some  foreigners 
and  the  regular  "blow-out"  of  others  is  painful  in  the  extreme. 

"Wives  in  Brazil  do  not  suffer  from  drunken  husbands ;  but  many 
of  the  old  Moorish  prejudices  make  them  the  objects  of  much 
jealousy.  Thei-e  is,  however,  an  advance  in  this  respect;  and,  far 
more  frequently  than  formerly,  women  are  seen  out  of  the  church, 
the  ballroom,  and  the  theatre. 

JSTevertheless, — owing  to  the  prevailing  opinion  that  ladies  ought 
not  to  appear  in  the  streets  unless  under  the  protection  of  a  male 
relative, —  the  lives  of  the  Brazilian  women  are  dull  and  mono- 
tonous to  a  degree  that  would  render  melancholy  a  European  or 
an  American  lady. 

At  eai'ly  dawn  all  the  household  is  astir,  and  the  principal  work 
is  performed  before  nine  o'clock.  Then  the  ladies  betake  them- 
selves to  the  balconies  for  a  few  hours,  to  "loll  about  generally," 
to  gossip  with  their  neighbors,  and  to  look  out  for  the  milkman 
and  for  the  quitandeiras.  The  former  brings  the  milk  in  a  cart 
of  novel  construction  to  the  foreigner, — or  at  least  he  has  never 
seen  such  a  vehicle  used  for  this  purpose  before  going  to  Brazil. 
The  cow  is  the  milk-cart !  Before  the  sun  has  looked  over  the 
mountains,  the  vacca,  accompanied  by  her  calf,  is  led  from  door  to 
door  by  a  Portuguese  peasant.  A  little  tinkling  bell  announces 
her  presence.     A  slave   descends  with  a  bottle  and  receives  an 


The  Milk-Cart  and  Quitandeira. 


167 


allotted  portion  of  tho  rcfresliing  fluid,  for  which  he  pays  about 
Bixpeuce  English.  One  would  suppose  that  all  adulteration  is  thus 
avoided.  The  inimitable 
Punch  says,  if  in  the  hu- 
man world  the  "  child  is 
father  to  the  man,"  in  the 
London  world  the  pump  is 
father  to  the  cow, — judg- 
ing from  the  results,  {i.e. 
the  milk  sold  in  that  vast 
metropolis.)  Alas !  man- 
kind is  the  same  in  Brazil 
that  it  is  in  London.  Milk 
may  be  obtained  pure  from 
the  cow  if  you  stand  in 
the  balcony  and  watch  the 
operation;  otherwise  your 
bottle  is  filled  from  the  tin 
can  carried  by  the  Opor- 
toense,  and  which  can  has 
oftentimes  a  due  propor- 
tion of  the  water  that 
started  from  the  top  of 
Corcovado  and  has  gurgled 
down  the  aqueduct  and 
through  the  fountain  at  the  corner  of  the  street. 

The  qultandeiras  are  the  venders  of  vegetables,  oranges,  guavas, 
maracujas,  (fruits  of  the  "passion-flower,")  mangoes,  doces,  sugai'- 
cane,  toys,  &c.  They  shout  out  their  stock  in  a  lusty  voice,  and 
the  different  cries  that  attract  attention  remind  one  of  those  of 
Dublin  or  Edinburgh.  The  same  nasal  tone  and  high  key  may  be 
noticed  in  all.  Children  are  charmed  when  their  favorite  old  black 
tramps  down  the  street  with  toys  or  doces.  Here  she  comes,  with 
her  little  African  tied  to  her  back  and  her  tray  on  her  Lead. 
She  sings, — 

<'  Cry  meninas,  cry  meninos, 
Papa  has  money  in  plenty, 
Come  buy,  ninha,  ninba,  come  buy  !" — 


^■^-^^v-., 


THE      QUITANDEIRA. 


168 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


and,  complying  with  tlae  invitation,  down  run  the  little  mcninos 
and  meninas  to  buy  doces  doubly  sugared,  to  the  evident  destruction 
of  their  gastric  juices  and  teeth.  Be  it  remarked,  en  passant,  that 
no  profession  has  more  patronage  in  Rio  than  that  of  dentistry. 

At  length  there  appears  at  the  head  of  the  street  that  charm  of 
a  Brazilian  lady's  day, — the  pedlar  of  silks  and  muslins.  He  an- 
nounces his  approach  by  the  click  of  his  covado,  (measuring-stick,) 
and  is  followed  by  one  or  moi-e  blacks  bearing  tin  cases  on  their 

heads.    He  walks  up-stairs 
r7;;2^  f-^'-^T     I  sure  of  a  welcome ;  for,  if 

I  ||i|  I  they  need  nothing  of  his 

wares,  the  ladies  have 
need  of  the  amusement  of 
looking  them  over.  The 
negroes  deposit  the  boxes 
on  the  floor  and  retire. 
Then  the  skilful  Italian  or 
Portuguese  displays  one 
thing  after  another;  and 
he  manages  very  badly  if 
he  cannot  prevail  on  the 
economical  lady  to  become 
the  possessor  of  at  least 
one  cheap  bargain.  As  to 
payment,  there  is  no 
need  of  haste:  he  will 
call  again  next  week,  or 
take  it  by  instalments, — 
just  as  the  senhora  finds 
best;  only  he  should  like 
senhora  to  have  that  dress, 
— it  suits  her  complexion  so  well;  he  thought  of  the  senhora  as 
eoon  as  he  saw  it ;  and  the  price, — a  mere  nada.  Then,  too,  he 
has  a  box  of  lace,  some  just  made, — a  new  pattern  for  the  ends 
of  towels, — insertion  for  pillow-cases,  and  trimmings  for  under- 
garments. 

Some  families  have  negresses  who    are  taught  to  manuflxcture 
this  lace, — the  thread  for  which  is  brought  from  Portugal, — and 


THE    BRAZILIAN     LADY'S     DELIGHT. 


The  Housekeeper's  Troubles.  169 

their  fair  owners  make  considerable  profit  by  exchanging  the  })ro- 
ducts  of  their  lacc-cushious  for  articles  of  clothing.  One  kind  of 
needlework  in  which  they  excel  is  called  crivo.  It  is  made  by 
drawing  out  the  threads  of  fine  linen  and  darning  in  a  pattern. 
The  towels  that  are  presented  to  guests  after  dinner  arc  of  the 
most  elaborate  workmanship,  consisting  of  a  broad  band  of  crivo 
finished  by  a  trimming  of  Avide  Brazilian  thread-lace. 

These  Italian  and  Portuguese  pedlars  sell  the  most  expensive 
and  beautiful  articles.  A  Brazilian  lady's  wardrobe  is  almost 
wholly  purchased  at  home.  Even  if  she  do  not  buy  from  the 
mascate,  she  despatches  a  black  to  the  Eua  do  Ouvidor  or  Eua 
da  Quitanda,  and  orders  an  assortment  to  be  sent  up,  from  which 
she  selects  what  is  needed.  The  more  modern  ladies  begin  to  wear 
bonnets,  but  these  are  always  removed  in  church.  Almost  every 
lady  makes  her  own  dresses,  or,  at  least,  cuts  them  out  and 
arranges  them  for  the  slaves  to  sew,  with  the  last  patterns  from 
Paris  near  her.  She  sits  in  the  midst  of  a  circle  of  negresses,  for 
she  well  knows  that  "  as  the  eye  of  the  master  maketh  the  horse 
fat,"  so  the  eye  of  the  mistress  maketh  the  needle  to  move.  She 
answers  to  the  description  of  the  good  woman  jn  the  last  chapter 
of  Proverbs: — "She  riseth  up  while  it  is  yet  night,  and  giveth  a 
portion  to  her  maidens  j  she  maketh  fine  linen  [crivo  and  lace]  and 
selleth  it;"  and,  though  her  hands  do  not  exactly  lay  hold  on  the 
spindle  and  distaif,  yet  "  she  looketh  well  to  the  ways  of  her  house- 
hold, and  eateth  not  the  bread  of  idleness,"  always  excej)ting  that 
taken  on  the  balcony. 

We  may  infer  that  the  habits  of  servants  were  the  same  in  Solo- 
mon's time  as  in  Brazil  at  the  present  day,  judging  by  the  amount 
of  trouble  they  have  always  given  their  mistresses.  A  lady  of 
high  rank  in  Brazil  declared  that  she  had  entirely  lost  her  health 
in  the  interesting  occupation  of  scolding  negresses,  of  whom  she 
possessed  some  scores,  and  knew  not  what  occupation  to  give  them 
in  order  to  keep  them  out  of  mischief  A  lady  of  noble  family 
one  day  asked  a  friend  of  mine  if  she  knew  any  one  Avho  desired 
to  give  out  washing,  as  she  (the  senhora)  had  nine  laz}^  servants  at 
home  for  whom  there  was  no  employment.  She  piteously  told  her 
story,  saying,  "  We  make  it  a  principle  not  to  sell  our  slaves,  and 
they  are  the  torment  of  my  life,  for  I  cannot  find  enough  work  to 


170  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

keep  them  out  of  idleness  and  mischief."     Another,  a  marchioness, 
said  that  her  blacks  "would  be  the  death  of  her." 

Slavery  in  Brazil,  setting  aside  any  moral  consideration  of  the 
question,  is  the  same  which  we  find  the  "world  over," — viz.:  It  is 
an  expensive  institution,  and  is,  in  every  way,  very  poor  economy. 
When  I  have  looked  upon  the  careless,  listless  work  of  the  bond- 
man, and  have  watched  the  weariness  of  flesh  to  the  owner,  1  have 
sometimes  thought  the  latter  was  most  to  be  pitied.  Any  cruelty 
that  may  be  inflicted  upon  the  blacks  by  the  whites  is  amply 
avenged  by  the  vices  introduced  in  families,  and  the  troublesome 
anxiety  given  to  masters. 

One  of  the  trials  of  a  Brazilian  lady's  life  is  the  surveillance  of 
the  slaves  who  are  sent  into  the  streets  for  the  j^urpose  of  market- 
ing and  carrying  water. 

The  markets  in  Eio  are  abundantly  supplied  with  all  kinds  of 
fish  and  vegetables.  Of  the  former  there  are  many  delicate  species 
unknown  in  the  North.  Large  prices  are  given  for  the  finer  kinds. 
One  called  the  garopa  is  much  sought  for  as  a  piece  de  resistance  for 
the  supper-table  on  a  ball-night.  Fifty  milreis  (about  twenty-five 
dollars)  are  given  on  such  occasions.  A  fish  is  always  the  sign  of 
a  casa  de  pasto,  or  common  restaui*ant,  at  Eio. 

The  market  near  the  Palace  Square  is  a  pleasant  sight  in  the 
cool  of  the  morning.  Fresh  bouquets  shed  a  fragrance  around,  and 
the  green  vegetables  and  bright  fruits  contrast  well  with  the  dark 
faces  of  the  stately  Mina  negresses  who  sell  them.  .  "  What  is  the 
price  of  this?"  "Wliat  will  the  senhor  give?"  is  the  common 
reply;  and  woe  betide  the  first  efforts  of  a  poor  innocent  ship's- 
steward  in  his  early  attempts  at  negotiation  with  these  queenly 
damsels,  whose  air  seems  to  indicate  that  with  them  to  sell  or  not 
to  sell  is  equally  indifferent  and  beneath  their  notice. 

The  indigenous  fruits  of  the  country  are  exceedingly  rich  and 
various.  Besides  oranges,  limes,  cocoanuts,  and  pineapples,  which 
are  well  known  among  us,  there  are  mangoes,  bananas,  fruitas  de 
conde,  maracuja,  pomegranates,  mammoons,  goyabas,  jambos, 
aragas,  cambocas,  cajus,  cajas,  mangabas,  and  many  other  species 
whose  names  are  Hebrew  to  Northern  ears,  but  which  quickly 
convey  to  a  Brazilian  the  idea  of  rich,  refreshing,  and  delicate 
fruits,  each  of  which  has  a  peculiar  and  a  delicious  flavor. 


Marketing. 


171 


With  such  a  variety  to  supply  whatever  is  to  be  desired,  in  view 
of  either  the  necessaries  or  luxuries  of  life,  none  need  complain. 
These  articles  arc  found  in  profusion  in  the  markets,  and  also 
hawked  about  through  the  town  and  suburbs  by  slaves  and  free 
negroes,  who  generally  carry  them  in  baskets  upon  the  head. 
Persons  who  wish  to  purchase  have  only  to  call  them  by  a  sup- 
pressed whistle,  (something  like  pronouncing  imperfectly  the  word 
tissue,)  which  they  universally  understand  as  an  invitation  to  walk 
in  and  display  their  stock. 


THE     EDIBLE     PALM,     (EUTERPE     EDULIS.) 


In  an  outer  circle  of  the  market  mentioned  you  find  small  shops 
filled  with  birds  and  animals.  Here  gay  macaws  and  screaming 
parrots  keep  up  a  perpetual  concert  with  chattering  apes  and 
diminutive  monkeys.  At  a  little  distance  outside  are  huge  piles  of 
oranges,  panniers  of  other  fruits  ready  to  be  sold  to  the  retailer  and 
the  ([ultatideiras,  wicker-baskets  filled  with  chickens  and  bundles  of 


172 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


palmito  for  cooking.  It  makes  one  sad  to  think  that  the  procuring 
of  these  pahnito-sticks  has  destroyed  a  graceful  pahn,  (^Euterpe 
edulis;)  but  what  is  there  that  we  are  not  ready  to  sacrifice  to 
that  Maelstrom,  the  stomach  r'  One  of  those  beautiful  trees  I 
sketched  at  Constancia,  fifty  miles  from  Eio.  It  was  not  straight, 
as  we  usually  find  it,  but  gracefully  curved ;  and,  as  it  lifted  its 
slender  form  and  tufted  summit  above  the  tropic  forest,  it  presented 
a  ])icture  of  such  uncommon  loveliness,  that  day  after  day  I  visited 
the  spot  to  drink  my  fill  of  beauty. 

Here    comes   the   black  cook,  Jose,   or  Cajsar,  basket  on  arm, 
counting  with  his  fingers,  and  bent  on  beating  down  to  the  lowest 

price  the  white-teethed 
Ethiopian  who  pre- 
sides, in  order  that  he 
may  have  a  few  vin- 
tems,  filched  from  his 
master,  to  spend,  as  he 
returns  home,  in  the 
purchase  of  a  little 
cachaya,  "pa?~a  matar 
0  bixo,"  (''to  kill  the 
beast.")  What  this 
much-feared  animal  is 
has  never  been  ascer- 
tained;  but  certainly, 
judging  from  the  pro- 
tracted effort  that  is 
required  to  kill  him,  he 
must  be  possessed  of 
remarkable  tenacity  of 
life, — a  sort  of  phoenix 
among  animals !  The 
fish,  vegetables,  fruit, 
and  Indispensable  chickens,  being  purchased  to  his  satisfaction,  he 
next  goes  to  the  street  appropriated  to  the  butchers.  Here  he  hnyn 
some  beef,  lean  but  not  ill-flavored,  an  apology  for  mutton  easily 
mistaken  for  patriarchal  goat,  or  a  soft,  pulpy  substance,  considered 
a.  great  delicacy,  (appropriately  termed,  by  the  Emerald  Islanders, 


Eating  and  Drinking.  173 

•'staggering  Bob,") — the  flesh  of  an  unfortunate  calf  that  had 
scarcely  time  to  look  at  the  blue  sky  ere  it  was  consigned  to  the 
butcher's  knife.  Then  he  proceeds  to  the  venda  to  purchase  the 
little  dose  for  his  hixo,  and  wends  home,  in  high  good-humor,  to 
prepare  breakfast. 

In  many  families  a  cup  of  strong  coffee  is  taken  at  sunrise,  and 
then  a  substantial  meal  later  in  the  morning.  Dinner  is  usually 
served  about  one  or  two  o'clock, —  at  least  where  the  hours  of 
foreigners  have  not  been  adopted.  Soup  is  generally  presented, 
and  afterward  meat,  fish,  and  pastry  at  the  same  time.  Except  at 
dinners  of  ceremony,  an  excellent  dish,  much  relished  by  foreigners, 
alwa3's  finds  a  place  on  a  Brazilian  table.  It  is  compounded  of  the 
feijiio,  or  black  beans  of  the  country,  mingled  with  some  came  secca 
(jerked  beef)  and  fat  pork.  Farinha,  or  mandi oca-flour,  is  sprinkled 
over  it,  and  it  is  worked  into  a  stiff  paste.  This  farinha  is  the  bread 
for  the  million,  and  is  the  principal  food  of  the  blacks  throughout 
the  country,  who  would  consider  it  much  deteriorated  by  being  eaten 
in  any  other  manner  than  with  the  fingers.  It  is  an  excellent  and 
nutritious  diet,  and  with  it  they  can  endure  the  hardest  labor.  Coffee 
or  mate  are  often  taken  after  dinner,  and  the  use  of  tea  is  becoming 
more  common.  The  "cha  nacional"  bids  fair  to  rival  that  of 
China;  but  the  mate,  though  not  generally  used  in  the  Middle  and 
Northern  provinces,  is  considered  more  wholesome  than  tea,  being 
less  exciting  to  the  nerves.  Some  families  have  supper  frequently 
of  fish  ;  but  in  others  nothing  substantial  is  taken  after  dinner,  and 
they  retire  very  early  to  rest.  Rio  is  as  quiet  at  ten  o'clock  p.m. 
as  European  cities  at  two  in  the  morning.  Even  the  theatre-goers 
make  but  little  noise,  as  they  are  generally  on  foot, — at  least  if  they 
reside  in  the  city.  So  much  do  the  places  of  public  amusement 
depend  on  the  pedestrians,  that  if  the  evening  is  decidedly  rainy 
it  is  usual  to  postpone  the  performance  until  another  night.  It 
must  be  remembered  that  half  an  hour's  rain  transforms  the  streets 
of  Eio  into  rushing  canals,  all  the  drainage  being  on  the  surface. 
On  a  drenching  day,  the  pretos  de  ganho,  or  portei-s,  who  lounge  at 
the  corner  of  every  street,  make  a  good  harvest  by  carrying  people 
on  their  backs  across  these  impromptu  streams.  Sales  are  often 
announced  with  this  condition  : — "The  weather  permitting." 

One  of  the  greatest  delights  for  the  black  population  of  Rio  is 


174 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


the  necessity  of  carrying  water  from  the  chafariz  or  public  foun- 
tain, or  from  the  water-pipe  which  is  at  the  corner  of  almost  every 
street.  Blackcy  lazily  lounges  out  with  his  barril  under  his  arm, 
and  happy  is  Congo  if  he  espies  a  long  queue  of  his  compatriots 
awaiting  their  turn  at  the  stopcock.     Here  the  news  of  their  little 

world  is  told  amid  bursts 
of  Ethiopian  laughter;  or 
a  small  flirtation  is  car- 
ried on  with  Eosa  or 
Jouquinha  from  the  next 
street;  or  perhaps  there 
is  an  upbraiding  lecture 
administered  by  some 
jetty  damsel  from  Angola, 
whose  voice,  to  his  con- 
sternation, is  by  no  means 
pianissimo.  There  is  an- 
other out-door  affair  much 
more  congenial :  i.e.  many 
a  sly  attempt  to  kill  the 
bixo  is  made  at  the  ad- 
joining venda  while  the 
water  pours  into  the  bar- 
rils  of  the  earlier  comers. 
Some  mistresses,  how- 
ever, who  find  that  their 
cooks  have  always  to  wait 
for  the  water,  make  arrangements  with  the  water-carriers,  who 
perambulate  the  streets  with  an  immense  hogshead  mounted  on 
wheels  and  drawn  by  a  mule.  This  vehicle,  during  a  fire,  (not  a 
frequent  occurrence,)  is  required  to  supply  the  fire-engines.  These 
men  are  generally  natives  of  Portugal  or  the  Azores,  and  seem 
eminently  qualified  by  nature  to  be  hewers  of  wood  and  drawers 
of  water.  They  carry  the  water  up-stairs  and  pour  it  into  large 
earthen  jars,  which  bring  to  mind  the  waterpots.at  the  marriage 
of  Cana  in  Galilee.  The  huge  earthen  vases  are  arranged  on 
stands  in  places  where  there  is  a  cun-ent  of  air,  and  the  liquid 
element  in  them  thus  acquires  a  coolness  which,  though  not  equal 


THE     ANGOLIAN'S      REPROACH. 


Family  Recreations. 


176 


to  the  iced  water  of  the  United  States,  possesses  a  delightful 
frigidity.  Ice  is  in  Brazil  an  expensive  luxury,  brought  solely 
from  North  America,  and  not  in  general  use  even  in  Eio,  and,  of 
course,  unknown  in  the  country.  Boston  apples  and  ice  are  both  in 
the  highest  esteem ;  but  the  latter  was  rejected,  as  altogether  un- 
wholesome, upon  its  introduction  in  1833,  and  the  first  cargo  was 
a  total  loss  to  the  adventurers.  At  the  present  time  both  com- 
mand a  good  price;  and  in  the  month  of  January  the  quitandeiras 
may  be  heard  crying  out  lustily,  "  Magiias  Araericanas,"  (American 
apples,)  which  they  sell  for  five  or  six  vintems  each 


THE      ILHEO      WATER-VENDER. 


The  Fluminensian  lady  has  occasionally  some  respite  from  slave- 
watching  and  household  cares,  when  the  senhor  takes  her  to  Petro- 
polis  or  Tijuca,  or  perhaps  gives  her  a  few  weeks  of  fresh  air  at 
Constancia  or  Nova  Fribourgo.  Such  visits  are  not,  however,  so 
frequent  as  one  would  wish,  and  the  senhora  must  content  herself 
with  festas,  the  opera,  and  a  ball,  as  a  relief  from  her  usual  round 
of  duties.  An  evening-party  in  Eio  generally  means  a  ball.  Fami- 
liar intercourse  with  the  higher  families  is  difficult  of  attainment  by 
foreigners;  but  when  the  stranger  is  admitted  he  is  received  en 
famille,  and  all  ceremony  is  laid  aside.  In  such  home-circles  the 
evenings  are  often  spent  in  music,  dancing,  and  games  of  romps. 


176  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Here  men  of  highest  position  are  sometimes  seen  unbending  their 
stiff  exteriors,  and  joining  heartily  in  innocent  mirth.  A  game 
called  "pilha  ires"  is  a  favorite,  and  is  quite  as  wild  and  noisy  as 
"pussy  wants  a  corner."  An  American  gentleman  informed  me 
that  on  one  occasion  he  joined  in  this  play  with  a  Minister  of  the 
Emj)ire,  the  Viscountess,  (his  wife,)  two  Senators,  an  ex-Minister- 
plenipotentiary,  three  foreign  Charges  d'Affaires,  and  the  ladies 
and  children  of  the  family.  No  one  feared  any  loss  of  dignity  by 
thus  laying  aside,  for  the  moment,  his  ordinary  gravity,  and  all 
seemed  to  enjoy  themselves  in  the  highest  degree. 

The  Brazilians  have  large  families,  and  it  is  not  an  uncommon 
thing  to  find  ten,  twelve,  or  fifteen  children  to  a  single  mother.  I 
saw  a  gentleman — a  planter — in  the  province  of  Minas-Geraes,  who 
was  one  of  twenty-four  children  by  the  same  mother.  I  afterward 
was  j)resented  to  this  worthy  matron  at  Eio  de  Janeiro. 

I  am  persuaded  that  there  is  much  of  the  home-element  among 
the  Brazilians.  Family  fete-days  and  birthdays  are  celebrated 
with  enthusiasm.  Though  the  standard  of  general  morality  is  very 
much  lower  than  that  of  the  United  States  and  England,  I  believe 
it  to  be  above  that  of  France,  and  there  is  a  home-feeling  diffused 
among  all  classes,  which  tends  to  render  the  Brazilian  a  more 
order-loving  man  than  the  Gaul.  "With  a  pure  religion  his  excel- 
lencies would  make  him  infinitely  superior  to  the  latter. 
"^  The  education  of  the  Brazilian  boy  is  better  than  that  of  his 
sister.  There  is,  however,  a  great  deal  of  superficiality :  he  is 
made  a  "little  old  man"  before  he  is  twelve  years  of  age, — having 
his  stiff  black  silk  hat,  standing  collar,  and  cane;  and  in  the  city 
he  Avalks  along  as  if  everybody  were  looking  at  him,  and  as  if  he 
were  encased  in  corsets.  He  does  not  run,  or  jump,  or  trundle 
hoop,  or  throw  stones,  as  boys  in  Europe  and  North  America.  At 
an  early  ago  he  is  sent  to  a  collegio,  where  he  soon  acquires  the 
Fi-ench  language  and  the  ordinary  i-udiments  of  education  in  the 
Portuguese.  Though  his  parents  reside  in  the  city,  he  boards  in 
the  collegio,  and  only  on  certain  occasions  does  he  see  his  father  or 
mother.  He  learns  to  write  a  "good  hand,"  which  is  a  universal 
accomplishment  among  the  Brazilians;  and  most  of  the  boys  of  the 
higher  classes  are  good  musicians,  become  adepts  in  the  Latin,  and 
many  of  them  are  taught  to  speak  English  with  creditable  fluency. 


^1 


"Professores,"  Colleqios,  and  Schools.  177 

The  examination  was  formei'ly  a  great  anniversary,  when  the  little 
fellows  were  starched  up  in  their  stilfest  clothes  and  their  minds 
were  "crammed"  for  the  occasion.  Tlie  boys  acted  their  j)arts,  and 
the  various  professores,  in  exaltation  of  theii'  office,  read  or  delivered 
meiiwriter  speeches  to  the  admiring  parents;  and  the  whole  was 
wound  up  by  some  patron  of  the  school  crowning  with  immense 
wreaths  the  "good  boj^s"  wdio  stood  highest  during  the  session. 
The  colleglo  then  took  a  vacation  of  a  few  weeks,  and  commenced 
again  with  its  boarders,  the  "very  young  gentlemen"  students 
But  these  things  have  greatly  changed  for  the  better,  and  many 
collegios  are  ably  conducted. 

The  principals  of  these  establishments,  when  gifted  with  good 
administrative  capacities,  reap  large  sums.  One  with  whom  1 
was  acquainted  had,  after  a  few  years'  teaching,  20,000$000  (ten 
thousand  dollars)  placed  out  at  iiiterest.  The  professores  do  not 
always  reside  in  the  collegio,  but  teach  by  the  hour  for  a  stipulated 
sum,  and  are  thus  enabled  to  instruct  in  a  number  of  schools  during 
the  day.  The  English  language  has  become  such  a  desideratum  at 
Eio,  that  every  collegio  has  liQ  prof essor  Inglez. 

There  has  recently  been  a  great  improvement  in  the  collegios 
as  well  as  in  the  public  schools.  The  professores  were  sum- 
moned, by  a  commission  under  the  Superintendent  of  Public 
Instruction,  to  appear  at  the  Military  Academy,  and  there  to  be 
examined  as  to  their  qualifications  for  giving  instruction.  If 
they  passed  their  examination,  which  was  most  rigid,  they  re- 
ceived a  license  to  teach,  for  which  they  had  to  pay  a  certain 
fee.  The  principals  also  were  required  to  undergo  an  examina- 
tion, if  the  commission  should  think  it  proper;  and  they  Avei'e  not 
permitted  to  carry  on  their  collegios  without  a  certificate.  The 
educational  authorities  also  asserted  their  right  to  visit  these  pri- 
vate academies  at  any  hour  of  the  day  or  night,  to  examine  the 
proficiency  of  the  scholars  at  any  time  during  the  term,  to  investi- 
gate their  sleeping-apartments,  their  food,  and  whatever  apper- 
tained to  their  mental  or  physical  well-being.  This  was  not  a 
mere  threat,  but  schools  were  actually  visited,  and  some  were 
reformed  more  rapidly  than  agreeably.  The  system  of  ''cram- 
ming" was  in  a  measure  broken  up,  and  the  Empire  thus  took 
under  its  control  the  instruction  given  in  the  private  as  well  as  in 

12 


178  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

the  public  aulas.  This  educational  innovation  at  the  capital  is 
owing  to  the  energetic  measures  taken  by  the  Visconde  de  Ita- 
borahy,  and  Dr.  Manoel  Pacheco  da  Silva,  who  is  at  present  the 
President  of  the  first  classical  institution  of  Eio  de  JaneirO;  the 
Imperial  College  of  D.  Pedro  IT.  The  note  of  reform  was  sounded ; 
every  duty  connected  with  teachers  or  scholars  was  fully  in- 
vestigated, and  the  revolution  was  made,  notwithstanding  the 
complaints  of  professores  who  were  degraded  as  incompetent, 
and  parents  who  found  their  children  rigidly  examined  and  only 
promoted  in  the  public  schools  after  convincing  proofs  of  real 
progress. 

There  is  a  common-school  system  throughout  the  Empire,  more 
or  less  modified  by  provincial  legislation.  The  General  Government 
during  the  years  1854-55  educated  65,413  children:  there  were 
probably  as  many  more  of  whom  we  have  no  Government  report, 
who  were  educated  by  private  tuition  and  under  provincial 
authority.  "When,  therefore,  we  consider  the  number  of  slaves  and 
Indians  in  Brazil,  and  also  when  we  reflect  that  the  common-school 
system  is  in  its  infancy,  it  is  an  encouraging  proportion.  There 
are  great  defects  in  these  elementary  schools,  but  each  year  they 
are  improving.  There  seems  to  be  an  inquiry  among  the  educated 
men  and  the  statesmen  as  to  the  plan  best  adapted  to  the  country. 
This  inquiry  is  not  always  confined  to  the  highest  class  of  citizens. 
Once  in  the  interior  I  was  aroused  from  my  slumbers  by  a  loud 
knocking  at  the  door.  I  hastily  opened  it,  and  saw  a  respectably- 
dressed  Brazilian,  who  informed  me  that  he  was  a  school-teacher, 
and,  learning  that  an  American  was  in  the  village  and  would  leave 
that  morning,  he  had  made  bold  to  come  at  this  early  hour  (the 
sun  was  just  peeping  over  the  palm-trees)  to  ask  me  if  I  could 
either  give  him  an  account  of  the  American  system  of  teaching,  or 
could  send  him  documents  on  that  subject.  In  the  same  place 
another  teacher  spoke  to  me  of  Horace  Mann's  reports  on  the  com- 
mon schools  of  Massachusetts ! 

Great  ignorance  prevails  in  a  large  portion  of  the  population,  and, 
though  many  years  may  elapse  before  a  tolerable  degree  of  know- 
ledge will  be  properly  diffused,  yet  the  beginning  has  been  made, 
and  the  French  proverb  is  true  in  this  as  in  other  things,  ''Ce  71' est 
que  le  premier  pas  qui  coute."     (It  is  only  the  first  step  that  costs.) 


CoLLEGio  OF  Pedro  II.  179 

In  the  city  of  Eio,  instruction  can  bo  divided  into  the  following 
classes : — the  primary,  the  secondary,  (instru(;uo  secundaria,)  and 
the  private  schools,  (coUegios.)  The  College  of  Pedro  II.,  the 
Military  and  Naval  Academics,  the  Medical  College,  and  the 
Tlieological  Seminary  of  St.  Joseph,  are  also  under  the  direction 
of  the  State.  In  the  private  schools  are  nearly  five  thousand 
scholars. 

Through  some  one  of  these  establisnments  the  juvenile  Brazilian 
ascends  the  hill  of  knowledge.  An  institution  already  referred  to, 
which  of  late  has  awakened  more  interest  than  any  other  in  the 
capital  of  Brazil,  was  organized  in  the  latter  jxirt  of  1837,  under 
the  name  of  Collegio  de  Dom  Pedro  11.  It  is  designed  to  give  a 
complete  scholastic  education,  and  corresponds,  in  its  general  plan, 
to  the  lyceuras  established  in  most  of  the  provinces,  although  in 
endowment  and  patronage  it  is  probably  in  advance  of  an}"  of 
those.  There  was  at  the  opening  an  active  competition  for  the 
professorships,  eight  or  nine  in  number.  All  of  them  are  said  to 
have  been  creditably  filled.  The  concourse  of  students  was  very 
considerable  from  the  first  organization  of  the  classes.  A  point 
of  great  interest  connected  with  this  institution  is  the  circum- 
stance that  its  statutes  provide  expressly  for  the  reading  and  study 
of  the  Holy  Scriptures  in  the  vernacular  tongue.  For  some  time 
previous  to  its  establishment,  copies  of  the  Scriptures  had  been 
used  in  the  other  schools  and  seminaries  of  the  city,  where  they 
were  not  likely  to  be  less  prized  after  so  worthy  an  example  ou 
the  part  of  the  Emperor's  College.  The  Eev.  Mr.  Spaulding  (who 
was  the  clerical  colleague  of  Dr.  Kidder  at  Rio  de  Janeiro)  had  an 
application  to  supply  a  professor  and  an  entire  class  of  students 
with  Bibles;  to  which  he  cheerfully  acceded,  by  means  of  a  grant 
from  the  Missionary  and  Bible  Societies 

The  Military  and  Naval  Academies  are  for  the  systematic  in- 
struction of  the  young  men  destined  to  either  branch  of  the  public 
service.  At  fifteen  years  of  age,  any  Brazilian  lad  who  under- 
stands the  elementary  bi'anches  of  a  common  education,  and  the 
French  language  so  as  to  render  it  with  facility  into  the  national 
idiom  or  Portuguese,  may,  on  personal  application,  be  admitted  to 
either  of  these  institutions.  I  have  never  witnessed  a  more  in- 
teresting scene  than  the  assembling  o£  these  young  men  for  their 


180  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

morning  recitations.     It  carried  me  back  to  the  North,}rn  uni 
versities,  so   much  vigor  and   spirit  did   the   Brazileiro   students 
manifest  in  their  sports  and  repartees,  or  in  their  explanations  to 
each  other  of  difficult  points  of  geometry  and  engineering  which 
were  soon  to  be  brought  before  their  professors. 

The  regular  army  of  Brazil  is  about  twenty-two  thousand  men. 
The  national  guard  consists  nominally  of  more  than  foui-  hundred 
thousand  men. 

The  Naval  Academy  was  formerly  on  board  a  man-of-war  ai 
anchor  in  the  harbor,  and  introduced  its  pupils  at  once  to  life  upon 
the  water.     1865,  the  academj^  is  removed  to  the  city. 

The  Imperial  Academy  of  Medicine  occupies  the  large  build- 
ings near  the  Morro  do  Castello,  and  is  attended  by  students  in 
the  different  departments,  to  the  number  of  more  than  three  hun- 
dred. A  full  corps  of  professors,  several  of  whom  have  been  edu- 
cated in  Europe,  occupy  the  different  chairs,  and,  by  their  reputa- 
tion, guarantee  to  the  Brazilian  student  an  extensive  course  of 
lectures  and  study.  The  institution  is  in  close  connection  with 
the  Hospital  da  Misericordia,  which  at  all  times  offers  a  vast  field 
for  medical  observation. 

The  Theological  Seminary  of  St.  Joseph  has  less  attraction  for 
the  Brazilian  youth  than  an}'  other  educational  establishment 
at  Eio. 

The  3'oung  Brazileiro,  (of  course  we  speak  of  the  gentleman's 
hon,)  after  leaving  his  collegia,  enters  the  Medical  Academy,  or, 
having  a  warlike  inclination,  becomes  a  middy  or  a  cadet,  or  he 
possibly  ma}'  enter  the  Seminary  of  St.  Joseph.  If  he  has  a  legal 
turn,  he  is  sent  to  the  Law  Schools  at  S.  Paulo  or  Pernambuco. 
The  young  Brazilian  likes  nothing  ignoble  :  he  prefers  to  have  a 
gold  lace  around  his  cap  and  a  starving  salary  to  the  cares  and 
toils  of  the  counting-room.  The  Englishman  and  German  are  the 
wholesale  importers,  the  Portuguese  is  the  jobber,  the  Frenchman 
is  the  coiffeur  and  fancy  dealer,  the  Italian  is  the  pedlar,  the  Portu- 
guese islander  is  the  grocer,  the  Brazilian  is  the  gentleman.  Every 
place  in  the  gift  of  the  Government  is  fall  of  young  attaches,  from 
the  diplomatic  corps  down  to  some  petty  office  in  the  custom- 
house. The  Brazilian,  feeling  himself  above  all  the  drudgery  of 
life,  is  a  man  of  leisure,  and,  looks  down  in  perfect  contempt  upon 


The  Brazilian  Gentleman.  181 

the  foreigner,  who  is  ahvaj'S  grumbling,  fretting,  and  busj'.  The 
Brazilian  of  twentj'-fivo  is  an  exquisite.  He  is  dressed  in  the  last 
Paris  fashion,  sports  a  fine  eane,  his  hair  is  as  smooth  as  brush  can 
make  it,  his  moustache  is  irreproachable,  his  shoes  of  the  smallest 
and  glossiest  pattern,  his  diamonds  sparkle,  his  rings  are  unexcep- 
tionable :  in  short,  he  has  a  high  estimation  of  himself  and  his 
clothes.  Ilis  theme  of  conversation  may  be  the  opera,  the  next 
ball,  or  some  young  lady  whose  father  has  so  many  cantos. 

In  spite  of  all  drawbacks,  many  of  these  men,  in  after-life, — 
whether  in  the  diplomatic  circle,  in  the  court -room,  in  the  House 
of  Deputies,  or  in  the  Senate, — show  that  they  are  not  deficient  in 
talent  or  in  acquirements.  They  can  almost  all  turn  a  sentence 
well,  rhjnne  when  thej-  choose,  or  make  a  fine  ore  rotundo  speech, 
echoed  by  the  apoiados  of  their  companions.  Some  few  become  fine 
scholars,  and  more  of  them  are  readers  than  are  generally  supposed. 
Man}''  of  them  travel  for  a  year  or  two,  and  are  educated  in  Europe 
or  in  the  United  States.  The  interest  which  the  Brazilians,  wnth 
D.  Pedro  II.  at  their  head,  are  now  manifesting  in  learned  societies, 
— whose  ranks  are  recruited  from  the  very  class  mentioned, — de- 
monstrates that  the  *'  little  old  men"  of  twelve  have  not  all  turned 
out  "froth  ;"  though  too  much  of  the  vain,  the  light,  and  the  super- 
ficial must  be  predicated  of  the  Brazilian,  who  looks  upon  cards, 
balls,  and  the  opera  as  essential  portions  of  his  existence.  From 
such  men  you  would  not  expect  much  of  the  ''sterner  stuff"  which 
enters  into  the  structure  of  great  statesmen.  Nevertheless,  the 
countr}^  has  made  wonderful  progress;  and  it  must  be  added,  that 
from  time  to  time  there  have  arisen  from  the  lower  ranks  of  society 
men  of  power,  who  have  become  leaders.  There  is  nothing  in  the 
origin  or  the  color  of  a  man  that  can  keep  him  down  in  Brazil. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  Brazilian  thus  described  is 
not  the  portrait  of  the  large  majorit}^  of  the  citizens  of  the  Empire, 
but  of  one  from  the  higher  classes  as  generally  found  in  the  cities. 
There  are  exceptions;  but  the  same  religion  and  the  same  mode 
of  thinking  have,  to  a  greater  or  less  degree,  given  a  similaritj"" 
to  all  who  comprise  the  upper  ranks  of  society,  and  from  whom 
come  the  magistrates,  officers,  diplomatists,  and  legislators.  Their 
greatest  defect  is  not  the  want  of  a  polished  education,  but  of  a 
sound  morality,  a  pure  religion.      Without  these,  a  man  may  be 


182  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

atniable,  refined,  ceremonious;  but  their  absence  makes  him  irre- 
sponsible, insincere,  and  selfisli.  As  nations  are  made  up  of  indi- 
viduals, it  should  be  the  ardent  desire  of  every  Christian  and 
philanthropist  that  this  Southern  people,  which  have  so  favorably 
set  out  in  their  national  career,  may  have  that  which  is  far  higher 
than  mere  relinenient  or  education. 

The  duties  of  the  Brazilian  citizen  are  clcarlj^  defined  in  the 
Constitution  and  by-laws  of  the  Emj^re.  Each  male  citizen  who 
has  attained  his  majority  is  entitled  to  a  vote  if  he  possess  an 
income  of  one  hundred  mih-eis.  Monks,  domestics,  individuals  not 
in  the  receipt  of  lOOSOOO  rent,  and,  of  course,  minors,  are  excluded 
from  voting.  Deputies  to  the  Assemblea  Geral  are  chosen,  through 
electors,  for  four  years.  The  Senator,  who  holds  his  position  for 
life,  is  elected  in  a  manner  somewhat  different  from  the  Deputado. 
Electors,  chosen  by  popular  suffrage,  cast  their  ballots  for  candi- 
dates aspiring  to  the  senatorial  office.  The  names  of  the  three 
who  stand  highest  on  the  list  are  handed  to  the  Emperor,  who 
selects  one;  and  thus  he  who  has  been  chosen  through  the  people, 
electors,  and  the  Emperor,  takes  his  chair  for  lifetime  in  the  Bra- 
zilian Chamber  of  Peers.  There  seems  to  have  been  great  wisdom 
in  all  these  conservative  measures,  and  their  excellencies  are  the 
more  enhanced  when  we  examine  the  vai'ious  laws  and  qualifica- 
tions that  pertain  to  elections  and  candidates  in  the  States  of 
Spanish  America.  The  Chamber  of  Deputies  consists  of  one 
hundred  and  eleven  members,  and  the  Senate,  according  to  the 
Constitution,  must  contain  half  that  number.  The  provincial 
legislators  are  chosen  directly  by  the  people. 

An  election  in  Brazil  is  not  very  dissimilar  to  an  election  in  the 
United  States.  Eio  de  Janeiro  is  divided  into  ten  or  twelve  parishes 
{freguezias)  or  wards.  A  list  of  voters  in  each  parish  is  posted  up 
for  some  weeks  before  an  election,  and  the  Government  designates 
clerks  and  inspectors  for  the  various  freguezias.  The  elections  are 
held  in  churches.  Upon  an  American  expressing  to  a  Brazilian  his 
surprise  in  regard  to  this  seeming  inconsistency  in  a  Roman  Ca- 
tholic country,— where  the  importance  put  upon  the  visible  temple 
is  as  great  as  if  it  were  the  very  gate  of  heaven, — no  satisfactory 
reply  was  obtained.  The  only  theory  by  which  the  Fluminensian 
attempted  to  account  for  it  was  on  the  supposition  that  when  the 


Elections  and  Political  Parties.  183 

Constitutional  Government  was  adopted  it  was  deemed  advisable 
to  give  a  solemnity  to  the  act  of  voting, — that  men  in  the  sacred 
edifice  and  before  the  altar  would  be  restrained  from  acts  of  violence, 
and  would  be  otherwise  more  guarded  than  in  a  secular  building. 
Experience,  however,  has  shown  that  political  rancor  will  i-ide  over 
all  religious  veneration;  for  it  is  said  that  on  certain  occasions,  in 
some  of  the  provinces,  the  exasperated  electors  have  seized  the  tall 
candlesticks  and  the  slender  images  from  the  altar  to  beat  conviction 
into  the  heads  of  their  opponents. 

A  ballot-box,  in  the  shape  of  a  hair  trunk,  is  surrounded  by  the 
clerks  and  inspectors;  the  vote  is  handed  to  the  presiding  officer; 
the  name  of  the  voter  is  checked,  and  the  ballot  is  then  deposited. 
Groups  of  people,  active  electioneerers  and  vote-distributers,  may 
be  seen  in  and  around  the  church,  like  the  crowds  of  the  "unterri- 
fied"  near  the  polls  in  the  United  States.  The  Government  has 
great  power  in  the  elections  through  the  numerous  office-holders  in 
its  employ ;  but  ofttimes  it  suffers  a  defeat.  The  supreme  authori- 
ties have  the  right  to  set  aside  an  election  in  cases  of  violence  or 
fraudulent  procedure. 

The  parties  are  the  ins  and  the  outs,  or  Government  and 
Opposition.  The  party -lines  were  formerly  more  closely  drawn, 
under  the  names  of  Saquaremas,  (the  Conservatives,)  and  Luzias, 
(the  Progressives..)  These  names  are  derived  from  two  unim- 
portant freguezias  in  the  provinces  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  and  Minas- 
Geraes.     1866,  the  Liberals  are  now  the  ins. 

These  parties  for  some  years  contended  for  power  and  principle, 
and  so  warm  were  their  struggles  that  at  times  they  seemed  to 
battle  more  for  rule  than  for  the  success  of  jDriuciples.  The  Luzias 
endeavored  to  promote  the  w^elfare  of  Brazil  by  adopting  laws  and 
regulations  for  which  the  Saquaremas  did  not  think  the  country 
yet  prepared.  Both  struggled  for  many  years,  and  alternately  held 
the  reins  of  government :  at  last  the  Saquarema  party  triumphed, 
and  from  1848  to  1864  was  at  the  head  of  affairs.  (1866,  parties  are 
now  called  Liberal  and  Conservative.) 

In  1854  the  two  parties  were  nearly  reconciled,  there  being  few 
dissidents.  This  was  owing  to  the  wise  policy  of  the  Saquaremas. 
They  made  very  good  use  of  their  great  influence;  they  adopted 
some  of  the   ideas  of  their   opponents;    and   they  promoted   to 


184  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Government  employment  a  number  of  the  Luzias  who  were  men 
of  acknowledged  ability  and  probity. 

This  reconciliation  was  mostly  owing  to  the  political  tacticii 
of  the  late  JMarquis  of  Parana,  who  was  a  most  skilful  politician 
and  a  fluent  speaker.  He  was  an  instance  of  a  man  of  talent 
reaching  by  his  industry  and  energ}'  the  highest  position  in  the 
gift  of  the  monarch  and  peoi^le.  He  knew  well  how  to  employ 
intrigue,  and  his  moral  character  was  by  no  means  spotless;  yet  at 
his  death,  in  September,  1856,  party-spirit  was  laid  aside,  the  faults 
of  the  man  were  covered,  and  the  energy  and  talent  of  the  states- 
man only  were  remembered. 

Among  the  distinguished  politicians  and  orators  of  Brazil  may 
be  counted  the  Marquis  of  Olinda,  (Pedro  de  Araujo  Lima,)  who 
was  educated  at  the  Portuguese  University  of  Coimbra,  and  has 
dedicated  more  than  thirty  years  of  his  life  to  the  service  of  his 
country.  He  was  Regent  during  the  minority  of  the  Emperor,  and 
has  been  at  various  times  a  member  of  the  Cabinet. 

The  Marquis  d'Abrantes,  (Miguel  Calmon  du  Pin,)  a  skilful  dijDlo- 
matist,  consummate  financier,  and  a  distinguished  orator,  was  at 
different  periods  a  member  of  the  Cabinet,  and  made  himself  still 
better  known  by  a  volume  giving  an  account  of  his  diplomatic  mission 
in  Euroj^e.  The  Marquis  d'Abrantes  was  President  of  one  of  the 
most  useful  and  important  societies  in  Brazil, — A  Sociedade  Auxilia- 
dora  da  Industria  Nacional, — a  voluntary  company  of  gentlemen 
whose  object  is  to  advance  the  agricultural  and  mechanical  and 
mineral  interests  of  the  country,  by  importing  model  implements, 
by  correspondence  with  agriculturalists  and  manufacturers  in  all 
parts  of  the  world,  by  combating  indifference  and  indolence 
and  every  unprofitable  routine  of  cultivation,  and  by  developing 
the  resources  of  the  country.     He  died  in  1865. 

Among  the  veteran  statesmen  may  be  mentioned  Senator  Yer- 
gueiro,  (once  Regent  during  the  minority  of  D.  Pedro  II.,)  who  has 
materially  advanced  the  prosperitj^  of  his  country  by  promoting,  at 
his  own  expense,  European  immigration.  A  fuller  sketch  of  this 
noble  octogenarian  is  found  in  another  chapter.    (Died  1860.) 

The  Visconde  de  Uruguay  (Paulino  Jose  Soares  de  Souza)  was 
formerly  a  leader  in  Brazilian  politics,  and  was  Minister  of  Foreign 
Affairs  when  the   cruel  Dictator  Rosas  was   overthrown  by  the 


Brazilian  Statesmen  and  ^Nobility.  185 

combined  Brazilian  and  Argentine  armies  and  was  expelled  from 
Biu'uos  Ayres.     He  died  in  1866. 

The  Visconde  de  Itaborahy  (Joaquim  Jose  Eodriges  Torres)  is  a 
skilful  financier,  who  has  been  frequently  a  member  of  the  Cabinet; 
and  it  is  to  him  that  are  due  the  reforms  in  the  public  treasury  and 
the  creation  of  a  national  bank.  lie  has  recently  been  engaged  in 
2)ronioting  the  interests  of  education,  and  in  reforming  public  in- 
stitutions.    His  views  about  steamers  and  railways  are  narrow. 

The  Visconde  de  Abaete  (Antonio  Paulino  Limpo  do  Abreo)  has 
been  many  times  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs,  and  is  a  brilliant  and 
persuasive  orator. 

The  Visconde  de  Sepetiba,  (Aui-eliano  de  Souza  Oliveii-a,)  who 
has  also  been  frequently  a  member  of  the  Cabinet,  was  one  of  the 
first  who  promoted  the  organization  of  companies  to  execute  dif- 
ferent enterprises  of  internal  improvement.     (Died  1855.) 

The  present  (1857)  Minister  of  Marine  (Joao  Mauricio  Wan- 
derl}^)  was  President  for  three  years  of  the  province  of  Bahia,  and 
directed  its  affairs  with  so  much  energy  and  prudence  that  he  fully 
earned  the  honor  of  being  called  by  the  Emperor  to  take  part  in 
the  Cabinet.     (He  is  now  Baron  de  Cotegipe.) 

Zacarias  de  Goes  e  Vasconcellos,  former  President  of  the  new 
province  of  Parana,  is  a  brilliant  orator,  and  was  called  to  a  place 
in  the  Cabinet  which  went  out  in  1853.     (Premier  in  1864.  and  66.) 

Luis  Pedi-eira  do  Coutto  Ferraz,  though  comparatively  a  young 
man,  has  been  called  to  places  of  high  honor  and  trust,  and  in 
1854-57  filled  the  important  post  of  Minister  of  the  Empire. 

The  Marques  de  Caxias — the  Minister  of  War  in  the  Cabinet 
which  had  so  long  been  at  the  head  of  affairs — was,  at  the  death  of 
the  Marques  of  Parana,  placed  by  the  Emperor  over  the  Department 
of  Finance.  He  is  a  gentleman  of  ability,  affable  in  his  manners, 
and  distinguished  as  the  commander-in-chief  of  the  Brazilians  in  the 
war  against  Rosas,  and,  in  1865-66,  of  the  forces  against  Paraguay. 

The  Visconde  de  Jequitinhonha,  (Montezuma,)  as  a  politician, 
diplomatist,  and  lawj-er,  ranks  among  the  first  men  of  the  Emj)ire. 
(1865,  he  made  strong  Emancipation  speeches.) 

Brazil  has  always  been  well  represented  in  foreign  lands,  and 
her  diplomatic  corps  is  not,  like  that  of  the  United  States,  recruited 
from  mere  political  partisans,  but  its  members  are  fitted  for  their 


186  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

posts  by  education,  discipline,  and  graduation,  in  the  same  "manner 
as  the  dij^lomatic  ranks  of  Enghmd  and  France. 

Among  them  no  one  stands  higher  than  the  Baron  of  Penedo, 
who  represented  Brazil  in  the  United  States  from  1852  to  1855. 
This  gentleman  distinguished  himself  as  an  advocate  at  Bio  de 
Janeiro,  and  is  now  Brazilian  minister  at  the  court  of  St.  James. 
He  is  a  man  of  varied  culture  and  enlarged,  statesmanlike  views. 

These  are  only  a  few  of  the  leading  men  of  the  Empire,  and 
want  of  space  alone  prevents  the  mention  of  many  more. 

Titles  of  nobility  have  been  often  used  iu  the  foregoing  pages, 
and  demand  a  further  explanation. 

Nobility  in  Brazil  is  not  hereditary,  but  bene  merito,  and  has  no 
landed  interest  or  political  influence.  If  a  Brazilian  has  distin- 
guished himself  by  his  statesmanship,  his  valor,  or  his  philanthropy, 
and  he  receives  patent  of  nobility  from  the  Emperor,  his  sou  does 
not  thereby  become  noble.  The  title  is  lost  to  the  family  at  the 
death  of  its  possessor.  The  titles  of  nobility  are  six, — viz. :  Mar- 
ques, Count,  Viscount  com  grandeza,  Baron  com  grandeza,  Yiscount, 
and  Baron.     There  are  six  orders  of  knighthood. 

Note  for  1S66. — We  have  elsewhere  mentioned  the  names  of  other  Brazilian 
statesmen,  but  we  cannot  forbear  to  refer  to  Visconde  de  Camaragibe,  a  conser- 
vative leader  of  Pernambuco ;  to  Sr.  Sinimbti,  a  judge,  senator,  and  minister; 
Sr.  Paranhos,  distinguished  as  senator,  diplomatist,  minister,  and  orator;  and  Sr. 
Souza  Franco,  senator  from  Para.  Sr.  Octaviano  ranks  high  as  a  writer,  speaker, 
and  diplomatist.  The  brothers  Ottoni  are  well  known,  one  as  a  political  leader, 
the  other  as  a  promoter  of  internal  improvements.  Silveira  da  Motta  has  great 
honor  for  steps  taken  to  abolish  slavery.  Nabuco,  as  minister  and  senator,  is  a 
gentleman  of  great  prominence.  Saraiva,  late  Minister  of  Foreign  Affairs,  is  a 
man  of  ability,  frankness,  and  energy.  He  was  master  of  the  situation;  and  the 
affairs  of  Brazil  iu  the  war  with  Pai-aguay  received  a  new  impulse  by  the  change 
of  cabinet  which  brought  Saraiva  into  power.  Sr.  Sa  e  Albuquerque  is  a  pro- 
mising young  statesman.  The  Baron  of  Prados,  a  man  of  rare  scientific  attain- 
ments, presided  with  dignity  over  the  Deputies  in  1864-65.  Jose  Bonifacio,  Pedro 
Luiz,  Junqueira,  and  many  others,  are  rising  men.  Martinho  Campos  is  a  deputy 
of  great  independence,  and  of  enlarged  views.  A.  C.  Tav;ires  Bastos,  the  youngest 
Brazilian  statesman,  has  attracted  much  attention  at  home  and  abroad  by  his 
liberal  policy  in  regard  to  commerce,  education,  and  administrative  reform. 
Among  the  leading  diplomats  not  already  mentioned  are  the  Lisboas,  at  Paris  and 
Brussels,  and  Sr.  d'Azambuja,  so  long  Brazilian  Under-Secretary  of  State,  now  at 
Washington.     Sr.  C.  F.  Ribeiro,  deputy  from  Maranham,  is  au  alumnus  of  Yale 


CnAPTER  XL 

PRAIA    GRANDE SAN    DOMINGO — SABBATH-KEEPING — MANDIOCA PONTE    DE    AREA 

VIEW  FROM  INGA — THE  ARMADILLO COMMERCE  OF  BRAZIL — THE  FINEST  STEAM- 
SHIP VOYAGE  IN  THE  WORLD;— AMERICAN  SEAMEN's  FRIEND  SOCIETY THE  ENG- 
LISH   CEMETERY ENGLISH     CHAPEL BRAZILIAN     FUNERALS TIJUCA — BENNETX's 

— CASCADES — EXCURSIONS BOTANICAL    GARDENS — AN    OLD    FRIEND — HOME. 

Rio  de  Janeiro,  sometimes  called  A  Corte  (the  Court)  by  the 
]}raziliaiis,  while  situated  within  the  province  of  the  same  name, 
is  only  the  capital  of  the  Empire.  Praia  Grande,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  bay,  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Eio  de  Janeiro. 
The  latter  city  is  in  a  neutral  district,  like  the  District  of  Columbia 
in  the  United  States,  and  all  the  laws  of  this  metropolis,  as  those 
of  ^Yasllington,  emanate  from  the  General  Government. 

Ferry-boats,  resembling  those  in  the  United  States,  run  half- 
hourly  between  the  Court  and  Praia  Grande,  touching  at  the  white 
little  village  of  San  Domingo.  The  passage  is  made  in  thirty 
minutes,  and  gives  a  fine  view  of  the  entrance  to  the  harbor,  the 
whole  water-line  of  Eio,  and  the  various  anchorages  for  the  ship- 
ping.    These  American  boats  were  introduced  by  Dr.  Rainey. 

Praia  Grande  and  San  Domingo  stretch  around  a  semicircular 

bay,  and    probably  contain    about   sixteen  thousand  inhabitants. 

On  account  of  the  quietness  and  cheaper  rents,  many  prefer  this 

side  of  the  water  to  the  urbs  JIuminis  as  a  place  of  residence.    I  here 

frequentlj'  held  religious  services,  and  the  Sabbath  seemed  more 

like  a  day  of  rest  than  in  Eio,  where  so  many  shops  are  open  and 

the  people  generally  given  to  amusement.     In  regard  to  the  holy 

keeping  of  the  day  of  rest  the  Brazilians  are  no  more  scrupulous 

than  their  co-religionists  in  France  or  Italy.     Militar}'  parades  are 

as  frequent  upon  that  day  as  any  other;  and  operas,  theatres,  and 

balls  are  probably   more  crowded    than  during  the   evenings  of 

secular  time.     The  foreign  wholesale  establishments  are  closed; 

187 


188  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

but  many  of  the  native  shopkeepers,  and  nearly  all  of  the  small 
French  dealers,  make  as  great  a  display,  in  the  morning  at  least,  as 
on  Monday  or  Saturday.  It  must,  however,  be  admitted  to  the 
credit  of  the  Brazilians  that  they  have  made  great  imjjrovements 
in  this  respect.  Formerly  there  was  no  closing  of  the  smaller 
places  of  business  on  Sunday,  and  that  day,  until  within  a  few 
years,  was  the  favorite  of  the  week  for  holding  auction-sales.  This 
the  authorities  suppressed  by  edict;  and  in  1852,  a  number  of  the 
Brazilian  jobbers,  by  an  agreement,  {convenio,)  for  a  while  ab- 
stained from  Sunday  dealings;  but  this  move  was  b}'  no  means  so 
apparent  as  the  sujDjDression  of  the  auctions.  In  the  discussion 
which  arose  in  regard  to  Sabbath-keeping,  the  BishojD  of  Rio  de 
Janeiro,  and  the  leading  journals,  took  an  active  part.  ISotwith- 
standing  all  these  ameliorations,  the  Lord's  day  is  one  of  amuse- 
ment and  business,  so  far  as  Brazilians  are  concerned;  and  its 
profanation  is  such  as  to  shock  even  those  who  are  not  accustomed 
to  the  decent  observance  of  that  portion  of  time  in  England,  Scot- 
land, or  the  United  States. 

In  Praia  Grande  and  S.  Domingo  there  are  beautiful  chacaras, 
(country-seats,)  and  quiet,  shad}^  nooks,  whose  delicious  fragrance 
and  coolness  contrast  refreshingly  with  the  hot  landing-place  of 
the  steam  fei'ry-boat. 

Twenty  minutes'  walk  from  the  praia  (beach)  will  bring  us  into 
the  sparsely-inhabited  environs,  where  we  ma}^  see  the  coffee-tree, 
with  its  cheny-like  berries,  the  noble  dome-shaped  mangueira, 
whose  fruit  is  esteemed  so  highly  by  the  English  in  the  East  Indies, 
and  orange-trees,  whose  rich,  yellow  burdens  never  become  weari- 
some to  the  eye  or  cloying  to  the  palate.  There,  too,  we  may  see 
fields  of  the  mandioca,  which  plant  has  been  and  is  as  much  asso- 
ciated with  the  sustcntation  of  life  in  Brazil  as  wheat  in  moi*e 
northern  climes.  This  vegetable,  {Jatropha  vianihot  L.,)  being  the 
pi'incipal  farinaceous  production  of  Brazil,  is  deserving  of  i:)articulai 
notice.  Its  peculiarity  is  the  union  of  a  deadly  poison  with  highly- 
nutritious  qualities.  It  is  indigenous  to  Brazil,  and  was  known  to 
the  Indians  long  before  the  discovery  of  the  country.  Southey 
remarks: — "If  Ceres  deserved  a  i)lace  in  the  mythology  of  Greece, 
far  more  might  the  deification  of  that  person  have  been  expected 
who  instructed  his  fellows  in  the  use  of  mandioc,"     It  is  difiicult 


The  Mandioca  Root. 


189 


to  imagirie  how  savages  should  have  ever  discovered  that  a  whole- 
some loud  might  be  prepared  from  this  root. 

Their  mode  of  prepai-ation  was  by  scraping  it  to  a  fine  pulp  with 
oyster-shells,  or  with  an  instrument  made  of  small  sharp  stones  set 
in  a  piece  of  bark,  so 
as  to  form  a  rude 
rasp.  The  pulp  was 
then  rubbed  or  ground 
with  a  stone,  the  juice 
carefully  expressed, 
and  the  last  remain- 
ing moisture  evapor- 
ated by  the  fire.  The 
operation  of  prepar- 
ing it  was  thought 
unwholesome,  and  the 
slaves,  whose  busi- 
ness it  was,  took  the 
flowers  of  the  nhariibi 
and  the  root  of  the 
urucu  in  their  food, 
•''to  strengthen  the 
heart  and  stomach." 

The  Portuguese 
soon  invented  mills 
and  presses  for  this 
purpose.  They  usually 
pressed  it  in  cellars, 
and    places  where  it 

was  least  likely  to  occasion  accidental  harm.  In  these  places  it  is  said 
that  a  white  inficct  was  found  generated  by  this  deadly  juice,  itself 
not  less  deadly,  with  which  the  native  women  sometimes  poisoned 
their  husbands,  and  slaves  their  masters,  by  putting  it  in  their 
food.  A  poultice  of  mandioc,  with  its  own  juice,  was  considered 
excellent  for  imposthumes.  It  was  administered  for  worms,  and 
was  applied  to  old  wounds  to  eat  away  the  diseased  flesh.  For 
some  poisons,  also,  and  for  the  bite  of  certain  snakes,  it  was 
esteemed  a  sovereign  antidote.     The  simple  juice  Avas  used  for 


MANDIOCA,     (JATROPHA      M  A  N  I  H  0  T.) 


190  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

cleaning  iron.  The  poisonous  quality  is  confined  to  the  root;  for 
the  leaves  of  the  plant  are  eateii,  and  even  the  juice  might  bo 
made  innocent  by  boiling,  and  be  fermented  into  vinegar,  or  inspis- 
sated till  it  became  sweet  enough  to  serve  for  honey. 

The  crude  root  cannot  be  ]5reservcd  three  days  by  any  possible 
care,  and  the  slightest  moisture  spoils  the  flour.  Piso  observes, 
that  he  had  seen  great  i-avages  occasioned  among  the  trooj^s  by 
eating  it  in  this  state.  There  were  two  modes  of  preparation,  by 
which  it  could  more  easilj-  be  kept.  The  roots  were  sliced  under 
water,  and  then  hardened  before  a  fire.  When  wanted  for  use, 
they  were  grated  into  a  fine  powder,  Vhich,  being  beaten  up  with 
water,  became  like  a  cream  of  almonds.  The  other  method  was 
to  macerate  the  root  in  water  till  it  became  putrid,  then  hang  it 
iij)  to  be  smoke-dried;  and  this,  when  pounded  in  a  mortar,  j)ro- 
duced  a  flour  as  white  as  meal.  It  was  frequently  pT'cj^ared  in  this 
manner  by  savages.  The  most  delicate  prejiaration  was  by  pressing 
it  through  a  sieve  and  putting  the  pulp  immediately  in  an  earthen 
vessel  on  the  fire.  It  then  granulated,  and  was  excellent  when 
either  hot  or  cold. 

The  native  mode  of  cultivating  it  was  rude  and  summary.  The 
Indians  cut  down  the  forest-trees,  let  them  lie  till  they  were  dry 
enough  to  burn,  and  then  planted  the  mandioc  between  the  stumps. 
They  ate  the  dry  flour  in  a  manner  that  bafiled  all  attempts  at 
imitation.  Taking  it  between  their  fingers,  they  tossed  it  into 
their  mouths  so  neatly  that  not  a  grain  was  lost.  No  Eui'opean 
ever  tried  to  perform  this  feat  without  powdering  his  face  or  his 
clothes,  to  the  amusement  of  the  savages. 

The  mandioc  supplied  them  also  with  their  banqucting-drink. 
They  prepared  it  by  an  ingenious  process,  which  savage  man  has 
often  been  cunning  enough  to  invent,  but  never  cleanly  enough  to 
reject..  The  roots  were  sliced,  boiled  till  they  beqamc  soft,  and  set 
aside  to  cool.  The  young  women  then  chewed  them,  after  which 
they  wore  returned  into  the  vessel,  which  was  filled  with  water, 
and  once  more  boiled,  being  stirred  the  whole  time.  "When  this 
process  had  been  continued  sufficiently  long,  the  unstrained  con- 
tents were  poured  into  earthen  jars  of  great  size,  and  buried  up 
to  the  middle  in  the  floor  of  the  house.  The  jars  were  closely 
stopped,  and,  in  the  course  of  two  or  three  days,  fermentation  took 


Tapioca.  191 

place.  They  liad  an  old  superstition  that  if  it  were  made  by  men 
it  would  bo  good  for  nothing.  When  the  drinking-day  arrived, 
the  women  kindled  fires  around  these  jars,  and  served  out  the 
warm  potion  in  half-gourds,  which  the  men  came  dancing  and 
singing  to  receive,  and  always  emptied  at  one  draught.  They 
never  ate  at  these  parties,  but  continued  drinking  as  long  as  one 
drop  of  the  liquor  remained,  and,  having  exhausted  all  in  one 
house,  removed  to  the  next,  till  they  had  drank  out  all  in  the  town. 
These  meetings  were  commonly  held  about  once  a  month.  De  Lery 
witnessed  one  which  lasted  three  daj's  and  three  nights.  Thus, 
man,  in  every  age  and  country,  gives  proof  of  his  depravity,  by 
converting  the  gifts  of  a  bountiful  Providence  into  the  means  of 
his  own  destruction. 

Mandioca  is  difficult  of  cultivation, — the  more  common  species 
requiring  from  twelve  to  eighteen  months  to  ripen.  Its  roots  have 
a  great  tendency  to  spread.  Cut  slips  of  the  plant  are  inserted  in 
large  hills,  which  at  the  same  time  counteract  this  tendency,  and 
furnish  it  with  a  dry  soil,  which  the  mandioca  prefers.  The  roots, 
when  dug,  are  of  a  fibrous  texture,  corresponding  in  appearance  to 
those  of  the  long  parsnip.  The  process  of  preparation  is  first  to 
wash  them,  then  remove  the  rind,  after  which  the  pieces  are  held 
by  the  hand  in  contact  with  a  circular  grater  turned  by  water- 
power.  The  pulverized  material  is  then  placed  in  sacks,  several 
of  which,  thus  filled,  are  subjected  to  the  action  of  a  screw-press 
for  the  expulsion  of  the  poisonous  liquid.  The  masses  thus  solidi- 
fied by  pi'essure  are  beaten  fine  in  mortars.  The  substance  is 
next  transferred  to  open  ovens,  or  concave  plates,  heated  beneath, 
where  it  is  constantly  and  rapidly  stirred  until  quite  drj^.  The 
appearance  of  the  fariuha,  when  well  prej)ared,  is  very  white  and 
beautiful,  although  its  particles  are  rather  coarse.  It  is  found  upon 
every  Brazilian  table,  and  forms  a  great  variety  of  healthy  and 
palatable  dishes.  The  fine  substance  deposited  by  the  juice  of  the 
mandioca,  when  preserved,  standing  a  short  time,  constitutes  the 
tapioca  of  commerce,  so  well  known  in  the  culinary  departments 
of  North  America  and  Europe,  and  is  now  a  valuable  export  from 
Brazil. 

Another  species,  called  the  Aipim,  (manihot  Aipim,)  is  common. 
It  is  destitute  of  all  poisonous  qualities,  and  is  boiled  or  roasted, 


Id'-J,  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

and  is  but  little  inferior  to  the  potato  or  the  large  Italian 
chestnut.  It  has  further  the  advantage  of  requiring  but 
eight  months  to  ripen,  although  it  cannot  be  converted  into 
farinha. 

Not  far  from  Praia  Grande  is  the  foundry,  engine-manufactory, 
and  shij)-yard  of  Ponte  da  Area,  where  four  or  five  hundred 
mechanics  and  laborers,  under  European  and  Brazilian  super- 
vision, are  turning  out  works  of  importance  and  magnitude.  In 
the  3'ear  1854,  besides  kettles,  stills,  and  boilers,  this  establish- 
ment constructed  four  steamers  with  their  engines,  and  two  more 
steamers  and  a  bark  were  uj)on  the  stocks. 

But  the  most  attractive  part  of  this  side  of  the  water  is  the 
peaceful  and  beautiful  Rua  da  Inga  and  the  Praia  de  Carahy.  We 
wind  through  a  thoroughfare — if  it  can  be  so  called — overhung  by 
graceful  shade-trees;  and  on  either  side,  almost  hidden  by  hedges 
of  mimosa,  creeping  and  flowering  vines,  huge  plants  and  cacti  in 
gorgeous  bloom,  are  the  vermilion  roofs  and  the  blue  arabesques 
of  Brazilian  cottages.  In  a  few  minutes  we  reach  the  Praia  de 
Carahy,  where  the  fanning  sea-breeze  dashes  the  waves  in  foaming 
brightness  agaijist  the  shell-paved  beach.  The  scene  beyond  is 
indescribable  in  its  beauty  and  its  grandeur;  and  the  view  of  the 
surrounding  mountains  and  Rio  de  Janeiro  nestling  at  their  base 
has  often  reminded  me  of  the  observations  of  Mr.  Ilillard  in  regard 
to  Naples  and  Edinburgh,  when  he  says,  "The  works  of  man's  hands 
are  subordinate  to  the  grand  and  commanding  features  of  nature 
around  and  above  them  :  .  .  .  .  the  magnificent  lines  and  sweeps 
of  the  landscape  eat  up  the  city  itself" 

When  I  gazed  from  the  craggy  cliff  of  Inga. upon  the  rolling 
surf  beneath, — the  graceful  lake-like  Bay  of  Jurujuba  on  our  left, 
the  islet  of  Boa  Viagem  before  us,  crowned  with  its  picturesque 
chapel,  dear  to  mariners  and  kissed  by  the  breeze-swayed  palm- 
tree,  and  as  with  silent  wonder  1  beheld  far  across  the  water  the 
giant  groupings  of  the  Pao  de  Assucar,  the  Tres  Irmaos,  the  wide- 
topped  Gavia,  the  columnar  Corcovado,  and  the  distant  Tijuca, — 
I  could  realize  the  emotions  of  the  same  polished  and  forcible 
writer  when  acknowledging  the  utter  impossibility  of  describing 
the  Italian  scene  to  which  the  Brazilian  landscajie  is  equal  in 
beauty  and  superior  in  sublimity.     What  Mr.  Hillard  has  said  of 


The  View  from  Inga.  193 

the  glorious  environs  of  Naples  is  doubly  true  of  the  view  from 
Ingii : — "  AVhut  words  can  analj'ze  and  take  to  pieces  the  parts  and 
details  of  this  nuitchlcss  panorama,  or  unravel  that  magic  web  of 
beauty  into  which  palaces,  villas,  forests,  gardens,  the  mountains 
and  the  sea,  are  woven  ?  What  pen  can  paint  the  soft  curves,  the 
gentle  undulations,  the  flowing  outlines,  the  craggy  steeps,  and  the 
far-seen  heights,  which,  in  their  combination,  are  so  full  of  grace, 
and,  at  the  same  time,  expression  ?  Words  here  are  imperfect  in 
struments,  and  must  j-ield  their  place  to  the  pencil  and  the  graver. 
But  no  canvas  can  reproduce  the  light  and  color  which  play  around 
this  enchanting  region.  No  skill  can  catch  the  changing  hues  of 
the  distant  mountains,  the  star-points  of  the  playing  waves,  the 
films  of  purple  and  green  which  spread  themselves  over  the  calm 
waters,  the  sunsets  of  gold  and  orange,  and  the  aerial  veils  of  rose 
and  amethj'st  which  drop  over  the  hills  from  the  skies  of  morning 
and  evening." 

Such  scenes  can  ho  felt,  not  described. 

If  we  now  turn  from  the  white  beach  and  the  magnificent 
Vista  de  Ingd,  and  seek  the  reddish-colored  hills  which  are 
beyond  the  Bay  of  Jurujuba,  we  shall  in  our  rambles  frequently 
meet  portions  of  the  earth  freshly  thrown  up.  This  has  been  done 
by  the  armadillo;  for  the  pointed  snout 
and  the  strong  claws  of  this  little  buckler- 
clad  animal  admirably  adapt  him  for  bur- 
rowing, which  operation  he  performs  with 
such  astonishing  rapidity  that  it  is  almost 
impossible  to  get  at  him  by  digging.  The 
hunters,  in  such  a  case,  resort  to  fire,  and 
smoke  the  armadillo  out  of  his  den.  Not 
being  able  to  stand  the  fumes  of  burning  ,.„£  armadillo. 

wood,  the  little  fellow  rushes  through  the 

new-made  aperture,  rolls  himself  up,  is  easily  captured,  and  his 
delicate  flesh  is  soon  consigned  to  the  kitchen.  This  power  of 
enveloping  himself  so  completely  in  his  shell  that  he  appears  like 
a  round  stone  or  a  cocoanut,  is  a  provision  of  a  kind  Providence. 
The  armadillo  cannot  run  with  any  degree  of  rapidity,  and,  when 
attacked  by  birds  of  prey,  he  rolls  himself  up  like  a  hedgehog,  and 

otfers  only  a  solid  uniform  surface  impervious  to  beaks  and  talons. 

13 


194 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


Or  again,  if  set  upon  by  a  dog  or  some  small  quadruped,  he  "swal- 
lows himself"  and  rolls  down  a  hill.  I  have  before  me  a  specimen 
of  the  armadillo  that  was  seized  in  his 
doubled-up  state  and  thrust  immediately^ 
into  boiling  water,  which  has  preserved 
him  in  that  position.  So  little  does  it  re- 
semble the  live  animal  or  his  natural 
elongated  appearance,  that  no  friend  to 
whom  I  have  shown  him  could  divine 
wdiat  it  was,  nearly  every  one  taking  him 
to  be  some  strange  Brazilian  nut.  The  en- 
gravings afford  a  perfect  likeness  of  him 
from  two  different  points  of  view:  neither 
head  nor  tail  can  be  made  of  him,  unless 
the  triangular  piece  is  his  os  frontis. 

In  returning  to  Eio  de  Janeiro,  it  is 
often  an  agreeable  variety  to  make  the 
passage  in  ufalua*  This  is  a  species  of 
boat  Avith  lateen  sails,  and  may  be  of 
twenty  or  forty  tons'  burden.  They  are  manned  by  a  captain,  who 
steers,  takes  the  three-cent  fare,  and  scolds  the  poor  blacks.  When 
it  is  calm,  the  more  than  half-naked  negroes  slowly  pull  at  the 
long  oars,  which  are  so  heavy,  that,  in  order  to  obtain  a  "  pur- 
chasej"  they  are  obliged  to  step  up  on  a  sort  of  bench  before  them, 
and  thus,  rising  and  falling  to  a  monotonous  African  ditty,  they 
form  one  of  the  peculiar  sights  of  Eio.  Many  of  the  poorer 
classes  go  as  passengers  on  these  faluas;  but  they  ai*e  mostly 
used  for  the  transportation  of  light  cargoes  to  various  towns  on 
the  bay.  If  we  take  a  falua  to  the  Saude,  we  pass  through  vast 
quantities  of  shipping. 

The  great  interests  of  Brazilian  commerce  draw  an  immense 
number  of  vessels  from  all  portions  of  the  globe.  Brazil  itself  pos- 
sesses the  second  navy  of  the  Western  World,  and  her  steam- 
frigates  and  her  sloops-of-war  rendered  essential  service  in  the 
overthrow  of  the  tyrant  Bosas  at  Buenos  Ayres. 

Since  1839,  Brazil  has  had  steamshijvlines   running   along   tho 


*  The  sail-boats  in  the  engravings  on  pages  60  and  201  &re  faluas. 


The  Commerce  of  Brazil.  195 

whole  of  her  four  thousand  miles  of  sea-coast,  but  it  was  not  until 
1850  tluit  Bteam-comniunication  was  established  to  Europe.  It  was 
then  that  the  Eoyal  liritish  Mail  Steamship  Company,  whose 
vessels  start  from  Southampton,  began  their  monthly  voyages. 
In  1857  Brazil  had  for  a  short  time  six  different  lines  of  steamers, 
connecting  her  with  England,  Ei'ance,  Hamburg,  Portugal,  Belgium, 
and  Sardinia.  The  United  States,  which  hitherto  had  been  the 
great  commercial  rival  of  Great  Britain  in  Brazil,  had  not  a  single 
line  of  steamers  to  any  portion  of  South  America;  and,  while 
England  was  reaping  golden  harvests,  the  balance  of  trade  was 
each  year  accumulating  against  us.  With  all  this  so  evident,  it  did 
seem  strange  that  the  General  Government  of  the  Union,  which 
had  aided  in  extending  Our  mercantile  interests  by  subsidies  to 
steamships  running  to  other  lands,  had  been  so  tardy  in  I'cgard  to 
South  America,  and  especially  unmindful  of  Brazil.  England's 
commerce  with  Brazil  since  the  establishment  of  her  first  steam- 
line  in  1850  has  increased  her  exports  more  than  one  hundred  per 
cent.,  while  the  United  States  required  thirteen  years  to  make  the 
same  advance.  Her  entire  commerce  with  Brazil,  imports  and 
exports,  advanced  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  per  cent,  since 
her  first  steam-line  was  established.  Each  year  the  balance  of 
trade  was  increasing  rapidly  against  us.  In  18G0-G1  the  United 
States  exported  to  Brazil  $6,018,394,  while  in  return  the  United 
States  imported  from  Brazil  $22,547,091 ;  or,  in  other  words,  only  a 
year's  trading  with  Brazil  left  against  us  the  cash  balance  of 
$16,528,697,  which  we  had  to  pay  at  heavy  rates  of  exchange. 
England,  in  1864,  sold  Brazil  $40,612,985,  and  bought  of  her  in 
return  only  $33,079,755,  thus  leaving  the  latter  her  debtor.  Why 
was  there  such  a  disastrous  account  against  us?  British  steamers, 
energy,  and  capital,  and  our  neglect,  had  thus  advanced  the  com- 
merce of  England.  Our  Government  and  our  merchants,  notwith- 
standing their  boasted  enterprise,  did  next  to  nothing  to  foster  the 
trade  with  Brazil.  Purchasing  as  we  do  half  her  coffee  crop  and 
the  greater  portion  of  her  India-rubber,  there  should  have  been 
an  effort  on  our  part  to  introduce  effectually  the  many  produc- 
tions of  our  country  which  we  can  furnish  as  well  as  Great  Britain 
Our  common  cottons  are  better  than  the  imitations  of  the  same 
manufactured  at  Manchester,  England,  and  yet  labelled  "Lowell 


19G  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

drillings"  and  "York  Mills,  Saco,  Me."  We  can  furnish  many 
kinds  of  hardware  and  other  items  cheaper  and  better  than 
England.  The  few  efforts  made  by  single  individuals  (as  in  the 
case  of  several  American  merchants)  to  introduce  the  labor-saving 
machines  of  our  country  have  already  resulted  in  the  establish- 
ment of  a  number  of  Brazilian  houses  in  Eio  de  Janeii'o,  where 
one  can  purchase  various  articles  under  the  comprehensive  name 
of  Generos  Norte  Americanos.  In  1856,  the  United  States  purchased 
one-third  of  all  the  exports  of  Brazil,  but  the  imports  from  the 
United  States  into  the  Empire  were  not  one-tenth  of  the  Brazilian 
imports.  This  subject  demands  investigation  from  individuals  and 
from  our  Government.  It  does  not  fall  within  my  province  to 
extend  this  to  greater  length  in  this  portion  of  the  work,  but  the 
statistician  and  the  political  economist,  as  well  as  those  who  are 
enffasred  in  commerce,  will  find  in  statistical  works  much  informa- 
tion  in  regard  to  our  business-relations  with  Brazil:  however,  in 
this  connection  I  will  mention  the  efforts  of  several  persons  who 
were  among  the  earliest  to  foresee  the  benefits  arising  from  steam 
communication  between  Brazil  and  the  United  States.  To  William 
Wheelwright,  Esq.,  (the  energetic  founder  and  entrepreneur  of  the 
Pacific  Mail  steam-line  on  the  west  coast  of  South  America,  the 
builder  of  the  Copiapo  Railway,  and  now  the  principal  contractor 
for  constructing  the  great  Argentine  Central  Railway,)  belongs  the 
honor  of  fii'st  suggesting  the  steam-line  from  New  York  to  RiO  de 
Janeiro.  John  Gardiner,  Esq.,  for  many  years  a  merchant  at  Rio, 
actually  made  propositions  to  the  United  States  Congress  of  1851-52 
for  effecting  this  desired  object.  In  1854,  Dr.  Thomas  Rainey, 
now  Director-in-Chief  of  the  Ferry  Company  at  Rio,  devoted  par- 
ticular attention  to  this  subject.  At  a  pecuniary  loss  to  himself, 
he  travelled  twice  from  Washington  to  Rio  de  Janeiro, — visiting 
the  Amazon  and  the  West  Indies, — going  before  the  Executive 
heads  and  the  statesmen  of  each  Government,  and  calling  attention 
to  the  important  facts  which  he  had  elucidated  after  patient  inves- 
tigation. These  facts,  printed  in  former  editions  of  this  work, 
were  very  striking  and  convincing,  and  afforded  to  friends  of  both 
lands  some  of  the  strongest  arguments  for  uniting  by  steam  the 
two  greatest  American  countries.  Dr.  Rainey,  in  connection  with 
R.  M.  Stratton,  S.  L.  Mitchell,  and  others,  urged  before  the  United 


A  Steamsuip  Line  to  Brazil.  197 

States  Coiigiess  of  1857-58  a  proposition  to  establish  a  line  from 
New  York  and  Savannah  to  Pani  or  Maranhani,  so  as  to  unite  at 
either  of  those  ports  Avith  the  Brazil  Packet  Company's  steamers. 
This  measure  was  defeated  Ijy  only  eight  votes. 

In  1852,  the  junior  author  was  so  imjDressed  with  the  evidence 
before  him  at  Pio  that  the  commei"ce  of  Brazil  was  gliding  away 
from  the  United  States,  that  he  wrote  a  letter  on  the  subject  of 
steam  communication  to  the  New  York  Journal  of  Commerce,  and 
from  that  time  forward  he  continued  to  agitate  in  the  press,  before 
Chambers  of  Commerce  and  popular  audiences  in  the  United 
States,  and  by  visits  to  Brazil  and  by  coi*respondence  with  Brazilian 
statesmen,  until  there  was  no  further  necessity  for  agitation. 

Hon.  A.  C.  Tavares  Bastos  (the  young  Bj-azilian  statesman  re- 
ferred to  On  page  186),  by  his  essays  entitled  Cartas  do  Solitarlo, 
(Letters  of  a  Hermit,)  by  his  communications  to  the  daily  press 
of  Eio,  and  by  his  persistent  advocacy  in  the  Parliament,  did  much 
among  his  countrymen  to  bi'ing  about  a  correct  public  opinion  on 
this  subject. 

It  was  a  favorite  idea  with  the  friends  of  this  measure  that  the 
interests  of  the  Western  continent  should  be  united;  that  the  policy 
of  the  North  and  South  American  States  should  be  as  far  as  pos- 
sible American,  and  not  European,  and  that  to  this  end  they  should 
be  locked  in  the  closest  embraces  by  steam;  thatb}^  this  alone  they 
could  cultivate  those  intimate  relations  of  friendship  and  that  mu- 
tual confidence  which  would  result  in  the  material  advancement  of 
the  New  World.  The  communication  with  Brazil,  and,  consequently, 
with  all  South  America,  was  exceedingly  difficult.  We  had  no 
means  of  sending  letters  and  passengers  except  by  sailing-vessels, 
which  are  slow,  unreliable,  and  but  little  disposed  to  accommodate 
the  interests  of  rivals.  Nearly  all  passengers  and  letters  went  to 
Liverpool,  thence  to  Southampton  or  the  Continent,  and  thence  to 
Brazil,  La  Plata,  and  the  Windward  Islands, — a  distance  of  nearly 
nine  thousand  miles.  Our  commercial  men  not  only  had  to  send 
by  this  most  unnatural  transit,  but  were  compelled  to  submit  to 
the  most  harassing  disadvantages,  and  were  almost  at  the  mercy 
of  European  rivals.  It  is,  therefore,  to  be  regretted  that  the  Con- 
gress of  1857-58  did  not  have  time  to  act  upon  the  report  laid  before 
that  body.     It  was,  however,  only  a  work  of  time.     In  June,  1865. 


198  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

the  Senate  of  Brazil  passed  the  bill,  (brought  into  the  Chamber  of 
Deputies  in  1864j  based  on  the  law  of  the  United  States  Congress, 
signed  by  President  Lincoln,  May  28, 1864,  to  the  following  effect  ; 
that  Brazil  unite  with  the  Government  of  the  United  States  in 
granting  a  joint  subsidy  to  a  line  of  steamers  making  twelve  round 
voyages  per  annum,  from  Xew  York  to  Eio  de  Janeiro,  touching 
at  St.  Thomas,  Para,  Pernambuco,  and  Bahia.  ''  The  United  States 
and  Brazil  Mail  Steamship  Company"  obtained  the  contract. 

Behind  the  island  of  Enxadas  are  the  Eoyal  Mail,  the  French, 
and  the  Liverpool  steamers,  which  have  come  over  the  pleasantest 
route,  save  one,  known  in  ocean-navigation.  I  have  sailed  on 
many  seas,  but  only  one  other  voyage  which,  all  things  considered, 
is  comparable  to  that  from  Eio  de  Janeiro  to  England.  We  are  out 
of  sight  of  land  but  six  days  at  the  longest  stretch,  (from  Pernam- 
buco to  the  Cape  de  Verdsj)  while  the  average  number  of  days  at 
sea  without  stopping  are  two  and  a  half.  From  Eio  to  Bahia  there 
are  but  three  days'  steaming  over  summer  waters;  and  the  ten 
or  twelve  hours  at  the  second  city  of  the  Empire  gives  plenty  of 
time  for  refreshing  promenades  or  rides  into  the  country.  In 
less  than  two  days  we  land  at  Pernambuco,  where  we  spend  from 
twelve  to  twenty  hours,  lay  in  a  stock  of  fine  oranges  and  pine- 
apples, (capital  anti-nauseatics,)  and  perhaps  purchase  a  few  scream- 
ing parrots  or  chattering  monkej's  to  present  to  our  European 
friends.  We  then  steam  for  St.  Vincent,  (Cape  de  Verds,)  where 
we  remain  a  few  hours,  and,  next  steering  northward,  in  forty- 
eight  hours  we  behold,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  at  sea,  the  tall 
iPeak  of  Tenerifte  lifting  itself  more  than  thirteen  thousand  feet 
l^rom  the  bosom  of  the  ocean.  Here  we  revel  in  peaches,  pears, 
Ifigs,  and  luscious  clusters  of  grapes, — in  short,  all  the  fruits  of  the 
temperate  zone.  We  pass  through  the  Canaries,  and  in  thirty 
hours  are  at  Funchal,  whei*e  the  fruit-dose  is  repeated;  a  walk  upon 
the  shore  (if  health-bill  clean)  is  permitted,  and,  after  being  bored 
a  few  hours  by  the  pedlars  and  grape-venders,  we  bid  farewell  to 
picturesque  Madeii*a,  and,  at  the  end  of  three  days,  sail  up  the 
mouth  of  the  Tagus  and  anchor  before  Lisbon.  When  we  leave 
Portugal,  we  steam  along  its  coast  and  that  of  Spain,  and  in 
three  days  we  land  at  Southampton.  No  such  steamer-voyage 
exists  in  the  woi'ld;    and  those  who  are  in  quest  of  the  new,  the 


Accessibility  of  Rio'de  Janeiro.  109 

strange,  and  the  beautiful,  can  nowhere  so  easily  and  so  cl  caply 
gratiiy  their  wishes  in  those  respects  as  by  the  trip  from  South- 
ampton to  Eio,  or  vice  versa.  186G,  Teneriffe  and  Madeira  are  no 
longer  ports  of  call. 

The  steam-voyage  from  New  York  to  Eio  {via  the  tropic  Isle 
of  St.  Thomas,  Para  on  the  Amazon,  and  the  bright  cities  of 
Pernanibueo  and  Bahia)  equals  in  pleasantness  the  route  from 
Europe  to  Brazil.     The  United  States  steamers  anchor  at  Enxadas. 

From  the  island  of  Enxadas,  on  either  hand,  over  vessels  from 
the  coasting-smack  to  the  largest  freighting-ships,  may  be  seen  the 
flags  of  Spain,  Portugal,  Italy,  Eussia,  Hamburg,  France,  Belgium, 
Bremen,  Austria,  Denmark,  Sweden,  England,  the  United  States, 
the  South  American  Republics,  and  Brazil.  These  vessels  are 
required  to  anchor  at  sufficient  distance  apart  to  swing  clear  of 
each  other  in  all  the  different  positions  in  which  the  ebbing  and 
flowing  tide  may  place  them:  thus,  boats  may  pass  among  them 
at  pleasure. 

Situated  accessibly  as  the  port  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  is,  upon  the 
great  highway  of  nations,  with  a  harbor  unrivalled,  not  only  for 
beauty,  but  also  for  the  security  it  affords  to  the  mariner,  it  be- 
comes a  touching-point  for  man}^  vessels  not  engaged  in  Brazilian 
commerce.  Those  that  suffer  injury  in  the  perils  of  the  sea  between 
the  equator  and  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  generally  jDut  in  here  for 
repairs.  Many  sons  of  the  ocean,  with  dismasted  or  waterlogged 
vessels,  have  steered  for  this  harbor  as  their  last  hope.  At  the 
same  time,  nearl}'  all  men-of-war  and  many  merchantmen,  bound 
round  Cape  Horn  or  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  put  in  here  to  re- 
plenish their  water  and  fresh  provisions.  Thus,  in  the  course  of 
business  and  of  Providence,  missionaries,  either  outward  or  home- 
ward bound,  were  in  various  instances  thrown  among  us  for  a 
brief  period;  and  we  scarcely  knew  w^hich  to  value  most, — the  pri- 
vilege of  enjoying  their  society  and  counsel,'  or  that  of  extending 
to  them  those  Christian  hospitalities  not  always  expected  on  a 
foreign  shore.  We  enjoyed  many  such  visits  that  will  long  be 
remembered,  and  we  seemed  to  be  brought  directly  in  contact  with 
Eussia,  India,  the  Sandwich  Islands,  and  Central  and  South  Africa, 
— the  countries  where  the  individuals  met  with  had  severally 
labored. 


200  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Such  circumstances  beautifully  illustrate  the  central  position  and 
the  important  character  of  the  harbor  of  Eio  de  Janeiro,  which 
forms  a  converging-point  for  vessels  from  any  port  of  the  United 
States  and  Europe,  and  for  returning  voyages  from  Australia,  Cali- 
fornia, and  the  islands  of  the  Pacific. 

Annually  more  than  twelve  thousand  mariners,  sailing  under  the 
flags  of  England  and  the  United  States,  are  gathered  at  Eio  de 
Janeiro.  This  class  of  men  demands  the  earnest  attention  of  the 
philanthroiDic  Christian.  If  pestilence  visits  Eio,  they  are  sure  to 
fall  before  it  sooner  than  any  other  men  who  resort  thither.  The 
improvidence  of  sailors  is  proverbial,  and  their  general  dissipation 
and  recklessness  are  well  known.  A  greater  proportion  of  these 
men  die  annuallj'^  than  of  those  who  follow  any  other  calling. 
They  therefore  really  call  for  most  earnest  effort  in  their  behalf, 
both  morally  and  physically. 

The  exertions  that  have  been  made  among  sailors  at  Eio  from 
time  to  time  have  not  been  entirely  in  vain.  The  American  Sea- 
men's Friend  Society — a  noble  institution,  which  has  carried  the 
church  over  the  world  for  Americans  and  Englishmen — established 
a  chaplaincy  at  this  port  more  than  twenty  years  ago.  oS'o  chaj)el 
was  ever  erected,  because  the  peculiar  regulations  of  the  port  are 
such  that  vessels  lie  at  anchor  awa}'  from  the  shore;  hence  it  has 
been  usual  to  hold  services  on  board  various  vessels  that  might  be 
in  the  harbor.  The  Bethel  flag,  with  its  white  dove,  would  be 
hoisted  to  the  main,  and,  when  unfurled  to  the  breeze,  like  a 
church-bell,  though  mute,  would  call  the  hardy  mariners  from  the 
various  anchorages  to  come  up  to  the  floating  tabernacle,  there  to 
join  in  the  hymn  of  praise,  or  to  listen,  in  this  distant  clime,  to 
the  lessons  of  sacred  truth.  During  a  number  of  j-ears  it  was  my 
privilege,  in  connection  with  duties  on  shore,  to  fill  the  post  of 
American  Chaplain.  It  was  my  custom,  when  the  Y)Ovt  was 
healthy,  to  visit  the  English  and  Amei'ican  vessels  each  Friday, 
conversing  with  the  officers,  dropping  a  word  of  advice  to  the 
sailors,  and  placing  in  the  hand  of  each  a  tract  to  announce  the 
ship  over  which  the  Bethel  flag  would  float  on  the  following  Sun- 
day. When  the  yellow  fever  prevailed,  I  daily  attended  the  hos- 
pitals and  boarded  the  ships  to  administer  the  comforts  of  the 
gospel  to  the  sick  and  dying  sailoi-s.     Poor  fellows  !     Many  passed 


The  English  Cemetery. 


201 


from  time  into  eternity  without  being  able  to  send  a  parting  mes- 
sage to  their  distant  friends ;  but,  whenever  I  could  ascertain  the 
address  of  their  relatives,  I  forwarded  their  dying  words,  which 
were  frequently  the  outpourings  of  their  faith  and  hope  in  Christ. 

In  this  round  of  duties  I  w^as  materially  aided  b}^  Senhor  Lco- 
poldo,  the  guarda-mor,  who,  with  great  kindness,  made  an  exception 
in  favor  of  the  chaplain,  allowing  me  to  visit  all  the  vessels  in  port 
without  the  special  daily  permit.* 

From  the  loading-ground  to  the  British  Cemetery  at  Gamboa 
the  distance  by  water  is  little  more  than  a  mile;  and  often  have  I 


ENGLISH      CEMETERY       AT      GAMBOA. 


had  to  lead  the.moui'nful  procession  from  the  landing-place  up  the 
green  walks  of  this  quiet  and  retired  resting-place  for  the  dead. 
In  this  beautiful  and  secluded  spot  sleep  more  than  one  minister- 
plenipotentiar}'  and  admiral.  Men  of  eminent  station,  as  well  as  the 
unknown  English  and  American  citizen,  the  German,  the  French- 
man, the  Swede,  and  the  representatives  of  the  commercial  marine 
cl  almost  every  nation,  here  slumber  in  death.     No  portion  of  Eio 


*  This  courtesy  can  be  better  appreciated  when  the  reader  is  informed  that,  by 
the  narrow  and  restricted  port-laws  of  Brazil,  no  one  except  a  custom-house  officer 
can  visit,  without  permit,  a  vessel  that  is  discharging.  The  penalty  for  each 
offence  is  a  fine  of  fifty  dollars.  : 


202  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

was  ever  more  impressive  to  me,  whether  it  was  in  reading  the 
solemn  funeral-service  in  the  hearing  of  many,  or  when,  with  none 
but  the  sexton,  I  stood  by  the  new-inadc  grave,  or  when  alone 
I  wandered  through  the  sliady  walks.  This  cemetery  belongs  to 
the  English;  but  the  application  of  any  consul  for  the  burial  of  a 
deceased  person  of  another  nation  is  never  rejected. 

While  Englishmen  either  at  home  or  at  Rio  have  done  so  much 
toward  preparing  and  beautifying  a  suitable  resting-place  for  the 
dead,  they  have  sadly  neglected  the  living  who  come  to  this  mart. 
There  is  regular  service  for  those  who  reside  in  the  city;  but  for 
the  six  thousand  mariners  who  sail  hither  under  the  English  flag, 
no  provision  has  been  made.  The  duties  of  the  English  chaplain 
conhne  him  to  the  shore;  and,  though  occasionally  English  officers 
and  masters  go  to  the  chapel,  the  sailor  is  neglected.  It  may  be 
said,  ''There  stands  the  chapel;  let  him  go  thither."  Men  who  are 
not  accustomed  to  the  sound  of  the  church-ii:oini>;  bell,  and  whose 
proclivities  are  not  particularly  God-ward,  have  some  hesitation  to 
row  one  mile  upon  the  water,  and  then,  in  a  tropic  clime,  to  walk 
another,  in  a  strange  city,  to  a  house  of  worship  with  which  they 
do  not  feel  associated  by  ordinary  local  ties.  For  such  men,  either 
the  English  Bethel  Union,  or  some  benevolent  association  connected 
with  the  Established  Church  or  with  Dissenters,  should  make  pro- 
vision  for  regular  worship.  If  men  will  not  come  to  the  gospel,  we 
must  take  it  to  them;  and  the  most  earnest  workman  in  the  vine- 
yard of  our  Master  will  find  enough  to  do  among  the  English  sailors 
in  the  harbor  of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  The  lower  class  of  English  laborers, 
either  in  the  mines  or  engaged  in  the  construction  of  railways,  is 
annually  increasing,  and  it  is  hoped  that  the  effort  for  ameliorating 
the  moral  condition  of  the  resident  workmen,  so  auspiciously  begun 
at  the  Saude,  may  be  followed  up  on  the  vast  water-parish  which 
is  ever  to  be  found  floating  on  the  commodious  bay.  I  am  aware 
that  there  are  those  who  look  upon  it  as  a  more  hopeful  task  to 
labor  for  the  good  of  souls  among  the  heathen  than  for  seamen. 
While  I  would  not  have  a  single  soldier  called  in  from  the  distant 
outposts,  I  do  believe  that,  under  the  circumstances,  no  distant 
field  is  more  encouraging  than  caring  for  the  spiritual  welfare  of 
those  who  "go  down  to  the  sea  in  shijis."  They  may  be  termed  a 
"hard  set;"  but  the}'  have  noble  and  generous  qualities  and  great 


Brazilian  Funerals. 


203 


temptations.  It  therefore  becomes  the  English  Christian  not  to 
rest  until  in  every  important  foreign  port  he  establishes  worship 
for  the  sailor.  (1866,  the  Gamboa  Cemetery  is  exclusively  English.) 
The  English  Chapel  is  situated  in  Eua  dos  Barbonos,  near  the 
Largo  da  Mai  do  Bispo.  This  neat  little  edifice  was  erected  in  1823, 
almost  immediately  after  the  achievement  of  Brazilian  Independ- 
ence. Service  is  held  here  each  Sunday  morning  at  eleven  o'clock, 
and  the  English  resident  experiences  a  homelike  feeling  when  he 
finds  himself  surrounded  by  his  countrymen,  and  listens  to  the 
sacred  and  beautiful-  service  to  which  he  was  accustomed  in  the 


THE      ENGLISH      CHAPEL. 


land  of  his  birth.  It  is,  however,  painful  to  reflect  that  so  few  avail 
themselves  of  the  opportunity  which  this  chapel  affords  ibr  hearing 
the  truth.  The  attendance  is  better  since  Kev.  Mr.  Preston's  arrival. 
Compared  with  all  other  English  chapels  which  I  have  visited  in 
many  foreign  lands,  that  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  is  the  least  frequented. 
There  are  a  number  of  Roman  Catholic  cemeteries  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  city,  which  belong  to  the  different  brotherhoods.  The  Bra- 
zilian funerals  are  conducted  with  much  pomp.  Formerly  inter- 
ments took  place  in  the  churches;  but,  since  1850,  there  have  been 
no  intermural  burials.  Carriages  and  outriders,  and  a  long  train 
of  friends  in  vehicles,  make  up  the  procession.  There  are  not,  to  a 
great  extent,  those  peculiar  customs  and  ceremonies  which  wero 


204  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

formerly  consequent  upon  a  death  in  a  Brazilian  family.  There  is 
more  j)arade  than  upon  the  Continent,  and  probablj'  more,  since  the 
burial-reform,  than  in  England.  The  deceased  child,  often  decked 
with  flowers,  is  borne  to  the  grave  in  an  open  hearse  with  gilded 
pillars.  The  driver  of  the  hearse,  the  footman,  and  the  four  out- 
riders, upon  white  horses,  are  in  red  livery.  Custom  forbids  the 
presence  of  women  at  a  funeral,  and  also  the  attendance  of  very 
near  relatives.  If  the  deceased  be  above  ten  years  of  age,  the  im- 
mediate relatives  remain  at  home  for  eight  days,  during  the  first 
of  which  a  profound  silence  is  maintained.  When  friends  come  to 
offer  their  sympathy,  the  customary  salutation  of  those  who  enter 
is,  "Will  you  permit  me  to  offer  my  condolence  for  the  loss  you 
have  sustained  ?"  Silence  is  then  preserved  by  both  parties,  and, 
after  some  minutes,  the  visitor  withdraws. 

From  the  cemetery  of  Gamboa  is  a  vista  of  the  Serra  de  Tijuca; 
and  among  the  man}'-  jaunts  near  the  city,  none  surpasses  in  inte- 
rest the  ride  up  these  mountains.  Passing  through  the  long  street 
of  Engenho  Yelho,  which  is  lined  with  the  residences  of  wealth^' 
families,  each  surrounded  with  its  chacara  or  grounds,  that  glow 
with  the  fadeless  verdure  of  mangueiras,  orange-groves,  and  palms, 
interspersed  with  flowers  of  the  brightest  hues,  we  reach  the  foot 
of  the  mountain.  Here  are  many  picturesque  villas,  each  having 
piazzas  in  front,  and  often  approached  by  a  large  stone  gateway, 
where,  in  the  evening,  the  family  sit  to  amuse  their  listless  hours 
by  watching  the  passers-by.  These  countrj'-residences  are  built  in 
a  style  that  accords  well  with  the  glowing  climate.  The  pediments 
and  cornices  of  the  houses  are  ornamented  with  arabesques  on  a 
ground  of  vivid  blue.  No  uglj'-  clusters  of  smoking  chimneys 
deform  the  roofs.  The  white  walls  glitter  amid  the  dark  foliage, 
or  stand  in  strong  relief  against  the  steep  mountain-sides.  The 
native  families  generally  live  on  the  plain,  and  near  the  ever- 
attractive  road;  but  the  Englishman,  true  to  his  national  character, 
climbs  the  mountain  and  builds  an  eyrie  among  the  clouds. 

On  arriving  at  a  mineral  spring,  called  Agon  'Ferrea,  j'ou  quit 
the  railway  for  the  more  agreeable  mode  of  travel  afforded  by 
horse  or  mule.  It  is  true  that  invalids  and  hard-hearted  people 
may  cause  four  mules  to  drag  them  up  the  steep  ascent.  But  no 
one  possessing  eyes,  taste,  and  health,  should  miss  the  opportunity 


i;':I:l'f-i.,i,i,f 


|J(ti»Af»'»jif"V''' 


TiJucA.  205 

of  a  horse-back  ride.  It  is  difficult  to  speak  calmly  of  the  scenery 
about  Rio.  No  pen  can  do  justice  to  the  view  that  meets  the  eye 
half-way  up  the  mountain.  A  good  cicerone  will  keep  your  atten- 
tion fixed  on  the  flowers  that  adorn  the  left  bank  of  the  road 
until  he  reaches  a  low  part  of  the  brushwood  and  pulls  in  his 
horse,  exclaiming, '"Look!"  A  wondrous  view  it  is  that  bursts 
upon  you.  There,  unfurled  before  you,  like  a  fairy  panorama, 
are  the  ba}'  with  its  islands,  the  distant  mountains  blending  with 
the  clear  blue  sky, — a  dark  precipitous  clifl:'  on  the  right,  pouring 
down  its  tiny  cascades  in  silvery  lines,  that  relieve  its  barren  stern- 
ness, and  on  the  left  a  high  hill,  covered  with  glossy-leaved  coffee- 
plants  :  on  the  plain  beloAV  rises  a  single  mound,  and  beyond  is  the 
gleaming  city, — its  white  edifices  peacefully  encircling  the  green 
hills  of  Conception,  San  Bcnto,  and  Antonio.  Nothing  but  a  large 
oil-painting  can  convey  any  just  idea  of  this  view;  and  it  was  here 
that  an  English  painter  took  his  stand  for  his  tropic  landscape. 
Leutsinger  has  the  best  photographs  of  Rio  scenery. 

After  a  long  gaze  you  turn  away  only  half  satisfied,  and  imme- 
diately lose  sight  of  all  on  that  side  of  the  mountain,  but  soon  dis- 
cover the  open  sea  beyond  the  opposite  descent.  A  few  minutes  more 
brings  you  to  the  residence  of  Mr.  Bennett,  an  intelligent  English- 
man, who  has  erected  in  this  beautiful  spot  a  boarding-house,  where 
many  of  the  foreign  residents  pass  the  hot  months.  Here,  while 
only  eight  miles  from  the  Praca  do  Commercio,  far  from  the  heat 
and  noise  of  the  busy  city,  we  could  spend  our  days  and  nights  in 
ease  and  comfort.  No  mosquitoes  fright  away  sleep  w^ith  their 
fierce  war-whoops  j  no  cockroaches — or  baratas,  as  they  are  called — 
crawl  over  3'our  feet  as  you  sit  in  the  piazza.  But  do  not  imagine 
that  there  is  total  stillness.  On  the  contrary,  the  air  is  vocal  with 
the  sounds  of  that  portion  of  animated  nature  which  loves  to  dis- 
turb nocturnal  hours.  Pre-eminent  above  all  is  the  staccato  music 
of  the  blacksmith-frog,  whose  substantial  body  a  man's  hands 
could  not  enclose,  and  every  sound  that  he  produces  rings  upon 
the  ear  like  the  clang  of  a  hammer  upon  an  anvil,  while  the  tones 
uttered  by  his  congeners  strikingly  resemble  the  lowing  of  distant 
cattle. 

Not  for  from  Bennett's  are  the  coffee-plantations  of  Mr.  Lesceno 
and  of  Mr.  Moke,  which  are  among  the  very  first  that  Avere  culti- 


206 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


vuled  in  Brazil;  and,  as  tho}'  are  the  only  fazendas  near  to  the  city, 
no  stranger  should  omit  an  early  walk  to  the  lovely  valley  -where 
the}'  are  found. 

The  excursions  from  the  boarding-house  are  most  varied  and 
interesting.  To  climb  the  Pedra  Bonita  and  gaze  u])on  the  moun- 
tain-landscape and  the  far-off  meeting  of  sky  and  ocean  's  thc 
dclightfid  work  of  a  few  hours.  The  charm  of  Tijuca  is  that, 
while  its  climate  is  unchanging  June,  and  its  verdure  tropical,  it 


BENNETT'S,    TIJUCA. 


possesses  the  sparkling  cascades  and  thundering  waterfalls  of 
Switzerland.  If  we  wander  from  Bennett's  toward  Eio,  and 
turn  to  our  left,  a  few  moments  will  bring  us  to  a  limpid  stream 
which  hangs  like  a  ribbon  down  the  mountain-side,  and  sends  up 

"  Brave  notes  to  all  the  woods  around, 
When  morning  beams  are  gathering  fast, 
And  husli'd  is  every  human  sound." 

This  beautiful  fall  is  said  to  come  from  a  height  of  three  hundred 
feet,  and  reminded  me  of  the  leaping  brooks  of  the  Valley  of  the 
Bhone,  or  the  graceful  cascade  of  Arpenaz,  that  swings  from  an 
Alpine  cliff  into  the  sweet  vale  of  Maglan.  Or  again,  if  we  ride 
for  a  half-hour  in  the  opposite  direction  from  the  mountain 
boarding-house,  we  reach  a  wild  and  verdant  spot,  where,  dismissmg 


Excursions.  207 

otir  horses,  we  climb  up  through  banana-fields  and  forest,  and  reach 
the  foaming  waters  of  the  Cascata  Grande.  Here  the  Tijuca  Eiver 
leaps  for  sixty  feet  or  more  over  a  rocky  inclined  plain,  presenting, 
when  the  volume  is  increased,  an  imposing  appearance;  but,  when 
the  stream  is  only  supplied  b}'  the  clear  springs  of  the  Serra,  it 
glides  down  in  a  transparent  sheet,  revealing  the  shining  rock 
beneath.  The  river  pursues  its  way  over  a  rock-bed  down  the 
mountain,  and  loses  itself  in  the  lake  which  mirrors  the  giant 
Gavia. 

]\Ii-.  Ewbank,  wlio  is  usually  veiy  correct  in  his  facts,  has 
euriously  departed  from  his  accustomed  precision  in  the  statement 
that  it  was  "  in  this  secluded  retreat  that  the  Bishop  of  I^io  lay 
concealed  during  the  troubles  with  the  Fi*ench  Protestants  of 
Colignj-'s  time."  Is o  "Bishop  of  liio"  was  in  existence  "during 
the  ti'oubles  of  Coligny's  time."  The  onlj-  bishopric  in  Brazil  for 
many  years  was  that  of  Bahia.  The  French  were  finall}'  expelled 
from  the  Bay  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  in  1567,  and  it  was  not  until  this 
was  effected  that  the  city  of  San  Sebastian  or  Eio  de  Janeiro  was 
founded.  j\Li'.  Ewbank  was  doubtless  misled  by  some  one  infoi-ming 
him  that  the  remains  near  the  Cascata  Grande  were  those  of  Avails 
erected  for  the  bishop  when  the  F'rench  took  possession  of  Eio. 
This  is  perfectly  correct;  for  in  1711,  after  the  disastrous  defeat  of 
the  French  commander  Du  Clerc,  (in  1710,)  Du  Gua}-  Trouin  came 
with  an  avenging  squadron  to  Eio  de  Janeiro,  and  on  such  a  scale 
were  his  preparations  that  the  inhabitants  fled  to  the  mountains 
of  Tijuca,  and  there  remained  until  the  city  was  taken  and  sacked, 
and  did  not  return  before  Trouin  had  sailed  away  with  his  heaA-y 
ransom. 

But  if  Mr.  Ewbank  has  been  led  into  error  so  far  as  a  date  is 
concerned,  he  has  more  than  made  up  for  it  by  his  beautiful  and 
graphic  painting  of  the  bright  Falls  of  Tijuca,  as  it  appeared  to  him 
when  taking  a  picnic-dinner  upon  the  glistening  stones: — "Om 
table  extended  into  the  channel;  and  there  we  banqueted  and 
reclined  amid  scenerj-  far  excelling  that  which  Pliny's  Laurentinum 
dining-chamber  opened  on.  Shielded  from  the  sun  by  nature's 
parasols,  far  from  the  busy  scenes  of  artificial  life,  not  a  carking 
care  to  trouble  us,  and  our  spirits  airy  as  our  dresses,  we  laughed 
and  talked  and  dipped  our  cups  in  the  crystal  stream  as  people  did 


208  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

in  the  golden  age.  Flora  adorned  the  hanging  shrubbery ;  Pomona, 
from  the  distance,  looked  on;  zephyrs  played  round  us;  and 
naiads — if  naiads  there  be — frisked  in  the  falls  and  threw  spray  at 
us  as  they  glided  by." 

From  Tijuca  there  is  a  very  fine  excursion  around  the  base  of  the 
Gavia,  high  up  whose  steep  sides  are  certain  curious  hieroglyjihics, 
which  have  long  occupied  the  attention  of  the  learned.  These 
characters  seem  like  Eoman  letters ;  but  the  best  explanation  of 
their  existence  upon  this  precipitous  wall  is  that  nature  has 
chiselled  them  by  rains  and  sun,  and,  perhaps  in  times  remote,  by 
little  shrubs,  whose  seeds,  deposited  by  wandering  birds,  have 
grown  in  the  crevices  until  their  swelling  roots  have  aided  the  rain 
in  prying  off  friable  portions  of  the  rock. 

This  excursion  can  be  extended  upon  the  wave-washed  beach 
around  to  the  Botanical  Gardens,  above  which,  from  one  of  the 
lesser  hills,  is  a  prospect  not  excelled  by  the  views  of  Como  and 
Maggiore.  The  abrupt  Corcovado  presents  a  new  face  as  it  looks 
do^m  upon  the  calm  Lagoa  das  Freitas.  The  stately  palms  of  the 
Jardim  Botanico  seem  from  oiu'  elevation  like  the  trees  of  a  child's 
toy  garden.  The  Serra,  across  the  Bay  of  Rio,  takes  every  shade 
of  purple  and  blue  during  the  daytime,  and,  as  the  sun  at  eventide 
darts  his  rays  athwart  the  Pao  de  Assucar  and  the  Irmaos,  the  dis- 
tant white  fortress  of  Santa  Cruz  stands  out  from  waters  and  moun- 
tains of  rose.  A  lady  friend,  who  sketched  for  me  the  opposite  en- 
graved scene,  accompanied  the  gift  with  this  remark  in  regard  to 
the  exquisite  tints  of  that  tropic  region: — "Years  of  familiarity 
never  destroyed  for  me  the  loveliness  and  marvellousness  of  these 
hues,  which  a  painter  would  hesitate  to  put  upon  canvas  for  exhi- 
bition to  the  inhabitants  of  a  less  genial  zone."  There  is  less 
difficulty,  however,  in  transferring  to  the  sketch-book  the  bold  out- 
lines of  those  peculiar-shaped  mountains  which  abound  throughout 
almost  every  league  of  the  capital  province  of  the  Empire;  and 
the  many  scenes  presented  in  this  portion  of  "  Brazil  and  the  Bra- 
zilians," which  were  taken  to  support  no  argument  of  mine,  will 
expose  the  absurdity  as  well  as  the  inaccuracy  of  the  descriptions 
given,  even  in  the  latest  American  edition  of  McCulloch,  of  "  the 
neighborhood  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,"  which  "  consists  in  a  great  mea- 
sui-e  of  plains"  ! 


An  Old  Friend. 


209 


The  Eotanical  Gardens,  to  which  we  can  now  easily  descend,  is 
situated  in  this  romantic  spot,  and  is  reached  from  the  city  by  a 
fine  turnpike  which  leads  through  Botafogo  and  under  the  shadow 
of  Corcovado.  It  is  not  a  flower-garden,  but  rather  a  Jardin  des 
Plantes,  where  rare  exotics,  from  the  tiniest  parasite  up  to  the  loftiest 
palm,  come  under  our  inspection.  Here  you  may  behold  groves  of 
cinnamon  and  clove  trees,  acres  of  Chinese  tea,  the  Nogaras  da 
India,  the  bread-fruit,  cacao  and  camphor  trees,  besides  many  others 
that  are  objects  of  great  curiosity.     There  was  one  tree,  half  hidden 


LAGOA     DE     FREITAS. 


by  the  dome-shaped  inanqueira!<,  that  I  often  visited  with  peculiar 
emotions  of  pleasure.  It  was  a  small  North  American  maple.  As 
I  looked  upon  that  little  tree, — an  exotic  in  this  distant  land,  where 
no  wintrj'  blasts  would  strip  it  of  its  foliage,  where  not  even  an 
autumnal  frost  would  robe  it  in  those  gorgeous  hues  wni.,h  the 
flowers  of  this  summer  clime  hardly  surpass, — I  could  sympathize 
with  the  Bedouin  of  the  desert  who,  upon  beholding  the  palm-tree 
in  the  Jardin  des  Plantes  of  Paris,  was  transported  far  over  moun- 
tain and  sea  to  the  country  of  his  nativity.  The  most  surprising 
sight  to  the  Northern  stranger  in  the  Botanical  Gardens  is  the  long 
avenue  of  the  Pahna  Eeal,  (^Oreodoxa  regia,)  which  we  enter  from 

the  great  gate,  and  which,  in  its  regularity,  extent,  and  beauty,  is 

14 


210  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

unrivalled.  It  is  a  colonnade  of  natural  Corinthian  columns,  -vrhose 
graceful,  bright-green  capitals  seem  to  suj)port  a  portion  of  the 
blue  dome  that  arches  above. 

But  the  sun's  last  rays  are  empurpling  the  granite  peaks  around 
us,  and,  after  a  gallop  through  the  villa-lined  San  Clemente,  we 
reach  Botafogo.  The  lamps  are  already  twinkling,  and  throw 
their  light  upon  the  edge  of  that  graceful  little  bay  where  the  gay 
regatta  holds  its  annual  festivity.  Five  minutes  more,  we  dismount 
at  the  Hotel  dos  Estrangeiros;  and  thus  we  have  accomplished  tho 
entire  circuit  of  the  city  San  Sebastian  de  Eio  de  Janeiro. 

Note  for  1S66. — No  one  who  has  not  visited  Tijuca  since  1855,  can  have  a  just 
idea  of  the  many  improvements  that  have  taken  place  in  that  charming  spot.  The 
Tijuca  rail'vay  conveys  passengers  from  the  Praca  da  Constitucao  to  the  foot  of 
the  mountain,  a  distance  of  seven  miles.  Near  the  terminus  are  several  fine  Bra- 
zilian chacaras  and  villas,  amongst  them,  the  most  conspicuous  by  its  size  and 
good  taste,  is  that  of  Militao  Maximo  de  Souza.  From  the  terminus  horses  can 
be  obtained,  and  after  a  fine  up-hill  ride,  over  a  new  road,  you  arrive  at  Boa 
Vista,  where  a  number  of  elegant  English  and  Brazilian  residences  have  been 
recently"  erected.  By  a  winding  road,  at  the  right  of  the  main  highway,  you 
reach  the  finest  house  for  picturesque  situation,  comfort  and  solidity  in  Brazil. 
This  is  the  residence  of  William  Ginty,  Esq.  Where  else  in  the  world  will  you 
find  all  the  adjuncts  of  gas,  (from  the  city  mains,)  running  water,  fine  gardens 
on  a  verdure-clad  peak  1300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea!  Mr.  Bennett  has 
more  than  doubled  the  accommodations  of  his  most  excellent  hotel,  and.  by  his 
tasteful  horticultural  adornments  and  other  important  additions,  he  has  rendered 
his  mountain  and  valley  home  more  attractive  than  ever.  To  the  geologist  a  new 
attraction  is  found,  in  the  fact  that  it  was  in  front  of  Mr.  Bennett's  that  Prof, 
Agassiz,  in  May,  1865,  first  discovered  erratic  boulders  and  drift — the  evidence 
of  glaciers  in  the  tropics  at  some  remote  geologic  period  of  time. 


CHAPTER  Xn. 

THE    CAMPO    SANTA    ANNA THE    OPENING     OF     THE    ASSEMBLEA    GERAL — HISTORY    OF 

EVENTS     SUCCEEDING     THE      ACCLAMATION     OF     DOM    PEDRO    II. THE     REGENCY 

CONSTITUTIONAL      REFORM CONDITION      OF      POLITICAL      PARTIES      BEFORE      THE 

REVOLUTION     OF     1840 DEBATES     IN      THE     HOUSE     OF     DEPUTIES ATTEMPT     AT 

PROROGATION MOVEMENT    OF    ANTONIO    CARLOS — DEPUTATION    TO    THE     EMPEROR 

. PERMANENT  SESSION ACCLAMATION  OF  DOM  PEDRO's  MAJORITY — THE  ASSEM- 
BLY'S    PROCLAMATION — REJOICINGS NEW    MINISTRY PUBLIC    CONGRATULATIONS 

REAL    STATE    OF    THINGS MINISTERIAL     PROGRAMME PREPARATIONS    FOR    THE 

CORONATION — CHANGE  OF  MINISTRY — OPPOSITION  COME  INTO  POWER CORONA- 
TION POSTPONED SPLENDOR  OF  THE  CORONATION  —  FINANCIAL  EMBARRASS- 
MENTS— DIPLOMACY DISSOLUTION    OF    THE    CAMARA PRETEXT    OF    OUTBREAKS 

COUNCIL    OF     STATE RESTORATION     OF     ORDER SESSIONS     OF     THE    ASSEMBLY 

IMPERIAL    MARRIAGES MINISTERIAL    CHANGE PRESENT    CONDITION. 

The  usual  carriage-route  to  and  from  Gamboa  is  through  the 

Campo  de  Santa  Anna.     Many  important  public  buildings  are  upon 

the  side  of  this  large  square.     The    railway    station,  an   extensive 

garrison,  the  Camara  Municipal,  the  National  Museum,  the  Palace 

of  the  Senate,  the  Foreign  Office,  and  one  of  the  large  opera-houses, 

are  to  be  found  on  different  portions  of  the  park.     It  presents  an 

animated  scene  on  the  3d  of  May,  when  the  session  of  the  As- 

semblea  Geral  is  opened  by  the  Emperor  in  person.  The  procession 

from  St.  Christoviio  to  the  Palace  of  the  Senate  is  not  surpassed  in 

scenic  effect  b}^  any  similar  pageant  in  Europe.     The  foot-guards, 

(halberdiers,)  with  their  battle-axes, — the  dragoons  and  the  hussars 

in  picturesque  and  bright  uniforms, — the  mounted  military  bands, — 

the  large  state-carriages,  with  their  six  caparisoned  horses  and 

liveried   coachmen  and  postillions, — the  chariot  of  the  Empress, 

drawn   by  eight   iron-grays, — the  magnificent   Imperial   carriage, 

drawn  by  the  same   number  of   milk-white  horses  decked  with 

Prince-of-Walcs  plumes, — and  the  long  cavalcade  of  troops, — form  a 

pageant  worthy  of  the  Empire.     The  six  coaches-and-six  are  for 

211 


212  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

the  officers  of  the  Imperial  household.  Her  Majesty  Dona  Tl  eresa 
is  surrounded  by  her  maids  of  honor  in  their  robes  and  trains  of 
green  and  gold.  Believing  that  some  fair  readers  will  be  gratified 
with  the  details  of  Dona  Theresa's  toilette,  one  who  is  better  ac- 
quainted than  I  am  M'ith  ladies'  costume  saj-s  that  the  hahiUement 
of  the  Empress,  on  state-occasions,  is  an  under-dress  of  white  satin, 
heavily  embroidered  with  gold,  with  a  profusion  of  rich  lace  falling 
deeply  over  the  corsage  and  forming  its  sleeves.  These  are  looped 
uj)  with  diamonds  magnificent  in  size  and  lustre.  The  train  is  of 
green  velvet,  with  embroideries  in  gold  corresponding  with  those 
of  the  skirt.  Her  head-dress,  with  the  hair  worn  in  long  ringlets 
in  fi'ont,  is  a  Avreath  of  diamonds  and  emeralds  in  the  shape  of 
flowers  rising  into  the  form  of  a  coronet  over  the  forehead,  and 
from  which  a  white  ostrich-feather  falls  gracefully  to  the  shoulder. 
A  broad  sash,  the  combined  ribbons  of  diff'erent  orders, — scarlet, 
purple,  and  green, — crosses  the  bust  from  the  right  shoulder  to  the 
waist,  above  which  a  mass  of  emeralds  and  diamonds  of  the  first 
water  sparkles  on  her  bosom.  Her  smile  is  one  of  engaging  sweet- 
ness, which  is  not  assumed  on  mere  state-occasions,  but  is  seen 
habitually,  whether  this  Neapolitan  j)rincess  is  accompanying  her 
august  spouse  in  an  afternoon  ride,  or  whether  with  a  single 
attendant  she  grants  a  private  audience  to  those  who  desire  to  pay 
their  homage  to  her  majesty. 

The  Emperor  is  indeed  a  Saul, — head  and  shoulders  above  his 
people ;  and  in  his  court-dress,  with  his  crown  upon  his  fine,  fair 
brow,  and  his  sceptre  in  his  hand,  whether  receiving  the  salutes 
of  his  subjects  or  opening  the  Imperial  Chambers,  he  is  a  splendid 
specimen  of  manhood.  His  height,  when  uncovered,  is  six  feet  four 
inches,  and  his  head  and  body  are  beautifully  proportioned :  at  a 
glance  one  can  see,  in  that  full  brain  and  in  that  fine  blue  eye,  that 
he  is  not  a  mere  puppet  upon  the  throne,  but  a  man  who  thinks. 

The  opening  of  the  Chambers  is  always  performed  by  His  Majesty 
in  person.  He  reads  a  brief  address  from  the  throne,  setting  forth 
the  condition  arid  necessities  of  the  Empire,  and  then,  pronouncing 
the  session  aberta,  descends  from  the  dais,  followed  in  jirocessiou 
to  his  Imperial  carriage  by  all  the  dignitaries  of  court  and  mem- 
bers of  the  Assembly.  The  cortege  returns  to  San  Christovao 
through  streets  that  are  decorated  with  hangings  of  crimson  silk 


The  Opening  of  the  Assemblea  Geral.  213 

and  satin  bi'ocade.  There  is  not  the  enthusiasm  attending  this 
ceremony  which  is  manifested  at  the  inauguration  of  a  new  Presi- 
dent of  the  United  States,  but  the  circumstances  are  different :  the 
oj^ening  address  of  the  Emperor  corresponds  to  the  annual  message 
of  the  President,  and  there  is  no  occasion  for  the  jubilatic  proceed- 
ings which  are  the  concomitant  parts  of  an  inauguration.  The 
monarchial  principle  is  deeply  imbedded  in  the  heart  of  the  Bra- 
zilian, and,  in  its  adaptation  to  them  and  their  country,  it  is 
infinitely  superior  to  republicanism. 

It  is  appropriate,  in  connection  with  the  opening  of  the  Assemblea 
Gei'al,  to  give  a  sketch  of  the  events  succeeding  those  which 
brought  the  present  Emperor  to  the  throne  of  Brazil. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  it  was  in  the  Campo  de  Santa  Anna 
that  the  citizens  assembled  in  April,  1831,  and  demanded  D.  Pedro  I. 
to  restore  the  ministry  which  was  the  favorite  of  the  people.  Upon 
the  refusal  of  the  monarch  to  this  request,  repeatedl}-  and  respect- 
fully urged  through  proper  magistrates,  several  divisions  of  the 
arni}'  and  the  national  guard  joined  the  populace.  An  adjutant 
was  sent  to  the  Palace  of  San  Christovao  for  a  final  answer,  which 
was  o-iven  in  the  abdication  of  the  monarch  under  circumstances 
which  command  our  highest  admiration. 

The  Adjutant  (Miguel  de  Frias  Vasconcellos)  returned  at  full 
gallop  from  San  Christovao  with  the  decree  of  abdication  in  his 
hand.  It  was  received  with  the  liveliest  demonstrations  of  joy, 
and  the  morning  air  rang  with  '^  vivas"  to  Dom  Pedro  the  Second, 

At  an  early  hour  all  the  Deputies  and  Senators  in  the  metropolis, 
together  with  the  ex-3[inisters  of  State,  assembled  in  the  Senate-  /^ 
House  and  appointed  a  provisional  Regency,  consisting  of  Vergueiro, 
Francisco  de  Lima,  and  the  Marquis  de  Caravellas,  who  were  to  / 
administer  the  government  until  the  appointment  of  the  permanent 
Eegency  provided  for  b}^  the  Constitution.  The  son  in  favor  of 
whom  this  abdication  was  made  was  not  six  years  old :  neverthe- 
less, he  was  borne  in  triumph  to  the  city,  and  the  ceremony  of  his 
acclamation  as  Emperor  Avas  performed  with  all  imaginable  enthu- 
siasm. During  the  progress  of  these  events,  the  corps  diplomatique 
had  assembled  at  the  house  of  the  Pope's  nuncio,  to  determine  on 
what  course  they  should  take  in  the  progressing  revolution.  ]\Ir. 
Brown,  the  American  charge  d'affaires,  declined  being  present  at 


214  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

this  meeting,  apprehending  that  its  special  design  was  to  protect 
the  common  interests  of  royalty.  Those  who  met,  however,  agi-eed 
to  present  an  address  to  the  existing  authorities,  in  which,  after 
stating  that  the  safety  of  their  several  countrymen  was  perilled  in 
the  midst  of  the  popular  movements  then  taking  place,  they  de- 
manded for  them  the  most  explicit  enjoyment  of  the  rights  ai.d 
immunities  conceded  by  the  laws  and  treaties  of  civilized  nations 
They  furthermore  resolved  to  wait  upon  the  ex-Emperor  in  a  body, 
to  learn  from  his  own  lips  whether  he  had  really  abdicated ! 

These  measures  were  highly  offensive  to  the  new  Government, 
being  considered  in  the  light  of  an  uncalled-for  interference.  That 
Government  was  at  the  same  time  highly  pleased  with  the  course 
pursued  by  Mr.  Brown,  and  also  by  Mr.  Gomez,  the  charge  from 
Colombia,  who  dissented  from  the  policy  of  the  monarchial  diplo- 
matic agents.  The  Minister  of  State  remarked  that  their  conduct 
was  that  of  "true  Americans." 

The  9th  of  April  was  appointed  as  the  first  court-day  of  Dom 
Pedro  II.,  while  the  ex-Emperor  still  remained  in  the  harbor.  A 
Te  Deum  was  chanted  in  the  Imperial  Chapel.  The  troops  appeared 
in  review;  and  an  immense  concourse  of  people,  wearing  leaves  of 
the  "arvore  nacional"  as  a  badge  of  loyaltj^,  filled  the  streets. 
They  detached  the  horses  from  the  Imperial  carriage,  so  that  they 
mijxht  draw  their  infant  sovereiij;n  with  their  own  hands.  When 
he  had  been  conveyed  to  the  palace  he  was  placed  in  a  window, 
and  the  unnumbered  multitude  passed  before  him.  After  this  he 
received  the  personal  compliments  of  the  corps  diplomatique,  none 
of  whom  were  absent,  notwithstanding  the  recent  excursion  on 
board  the  Warspite. 

The  new  Government  courteously  offered  Dom  Pedro  I.  the  use 
of  a  public  ship.  He  declined  it,  on  account  of  the  delay  and  ex- 
pense that  would  be  necessary  to  its  outfit;  remarking,  at  the  same 
time,  that  his  good  friends,  the  Kings  of  Great  Britain  and  France, 
could  well  afford  him  the  conveyance  for  himself  and  family  which 
had  been  offered  by  their  respective  naval  commanders  on  that 
station. 

On  the  17th  of  June  the  Assemblea  Geral  proceeded  to  the  elec- 
tion of  the  permanent  Regency.  The  individuals  elected  were  Lima, 
Costa  Carvalho,  and  Joao  Braulio  Muniz.     The  General  Assembly 


The  Regency.  215 

was  occupied  during  this  session  by  exciting  debates  on  the  subject 
of  constitutional  reform. 

Senhor  Antonio  Carlos  de  Andrada  presided  in  the  Chamber  of 
Deputies.  Jose  Bonifacio,  who  had  been  appointed  by  the  ex-Em- 
peror as  tutor  to  his  children,  was  rccommissioned  by  the  Assemblea, 
that  body  having  decided  that  the  former  appointment  was  invalid. 
On  accepting  his  charge,  that  distinguished  Brazilian  declared  that 
he  would  receive  no  compensation  for  the  services  he  might  render 
in  that  important  capacity, — which  declaration  he  maintained  in 
the  spirit  of  a  true  patriot. 

Notwithstanding  the  magnitude  of  the  revolution  that  had  so  sud- 
denly transpired,  the  public  tranquillity  was  scarcely  at  all  disturbed. 

On  the  7th  of  October  official  desj)atche8  arrived,  bringing  the 
congratulations  of  the  Government  of  the  United  States  upon  the 
new  order  of  things.  This  was  the  first  demonstration  of  the  senti- 
ments of  other  nations  that  was  communicated  at  the  Brazilian 
coixrt,  and  as  such  was  received  with  peculiar  satisfaction. 

In  the  month  of  April,  1832,  two  military  riots  occurred  in  Rio 
de  Janeiro,  and  in  July  following  the  Minister  of  Justice,  in  his 
public  report,  seized  the  occasion  to  denounce  the  venerable  Jose 
Bonifacio,  on  suspicion  of  his  having  connived  at  the  preceding 
disturbances.  The  report  of  a  committee  in  the  Camara  dos  Depu- 
tados  demanded  his  dismission  without  a  hearing.  The  Camara 
agreed  to  this  hy  a  bare  majority,  but  the  Senate  dissented,  and 
that  plot  for  degrading  Andrada  failed.  The  Regents  sent  in  their 
resignation  to  the  General  Assembly.  A  deputation  from  the 
Chamber  of  Deputies  besought  them  to  remain  in  office.  They 
consented,  but  immediately  organized  a  new  ministry. 

The  next  year,  however,  the  opposition  triumphed,  not  in  verify- 
ing these  unjust  accusations,  but  in  deposing  the  old  patriot  as 
tutor  to  the  young  Emperor. 

The  year  1834  was  celebrated  on  account  of  the  importait 
changes  that  were  made  in  the  Constitution  of  the  Empire.  One 
of  these  created  annual  assemblies  in  the  j^rovinces,  instead  of  the 
general  councils  before  held.  The  members  of  the  provincial 
assemblies  were  to  be  elected  once  in  two  years.  Another  abo- 
lished the  triple  Regency,  and  again  conferred  that  office  upon  a 
single  individual,  to  be  elected  once  in  four  years. 


216  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

After  the  election  for  Sole  Ecgent  took  i^liice,  the  Senate  delayed 
for  a  long  time  the  announcement  of  the  successful  candidate;  but 
at  length  it  was  made  known  that  Diogo  Antonio  Feijo,  of  San 
Paulo,  had  received  a  large  majority  of  the  electoral  votes.  Feijo, 
although  a  priest,  had  been  for  many  j^ears  engaged  in  political 
life,  and  only  two  years  before  had  been  elected  a  Senator.  One 
of  the  last  acts  of  the  pi'eceding  administration  had  been  to  appoint 
him  Bishop  of  Mai'iana,  a  diocese  including  the  rich  province  of  the 
Minas.  Feijo  was  installed  Sole  Eegent  on  the  12th  of  October, 
1835.  On  the  24th  he  issued  a  judicious  proclamation  to  the  Bra- 
zilian people,  setting  forth  the  principles  that  he  intended  to  observe 
in  his  administration. 

The  agitated  question  of  the  Regency  being  settled,  affairs  as- 
sumed a  more  permanent  aspect.  Several  foreign  nations,  at  this 
juncture,  advanced  their  diplomatic  agents  to  the  highest  grade. 
The  United  States  were  desired  to  do  the  same,  but  did  not  consent. 

In  1836  the  Government,  among  other  suggestions  for  the  public 
good,  proposed  to  employ  Moravian  missionaries  to  catechize  the 
Indians  of  the  interior.  This  measure,  together  Avith  every  other  ori- 
ginated by  this  administration,  was  opposed  with  the  utmost  rancor 
and  bitterness  by  Vasconcellos,  a  veteran  politician  of  great  abili- 
ties and  uncommon  eloquence,  but  of  doubtful  principles  and  bad 
morals.  Notwithstanding  the  arts  and  power  of  Vasconcellos,  the 
leading  measure  of  the  administration  prevailed.  This  was  a  loan 
of  two  thousand  contos  of  reis  (£200,000)  for  the  temporary  relief 
of  the  treasury.  Open  and  active  rebellions  were  at  this  time  in 
progress  in  Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  and  also  in  Para.  Their  influence, 
however,  was  scarcely  apparent  at  the  capital,  where  every  thing 
seemed  quiet  and  prosperous.  The  General  Assembly  was  slow  in 
making  provision  to  suppress  these  outbreaks,  and  when  they  were 
about  to  adjourn  Feijo  prolonged  the  session  a  month,  "that  the 
members  might  do  their  duty."  Movements  for  the  abolition  uf 
the  Regency,  and  the  installation  of  the  young  Emperor,  had 
already  commenced,  even  at  this  early  da^.  At  times,  and  in 
favorable  circumstances,  they  became  more  apparent. 

Feijo's  administration  was  not  calculated  to  be  popular.  His 
character  partook  of  the  old  Roman  sternness.  When  he  had  once 
marked  out  a  course  for  himself,  he  followed  it  against  all  opposi- 


Condition  of  Parties.  217 

tion.  Disinclined  to  ostentation  himself,  he  did  not  countenance  it 
in  others.  He  neither  practised  nor  abetted  the  usual  arts  of  flat- 
tering the  popular  will.  He  sometimes  changed  his  ministers,  but 
his  advisers  seldom  or  never.  At  length,  so  embarrassed  did  he 
find  himself  between  the  rebellion  of  Eio  Grande  and  the  flictious 
opposition  that  checked  his  measures  for  repressing  it,  that  he 
determined  to  retire  from  his  office. 

On  the  17th  of  September,  1837,  Feijo  abdicated  the  Eegency, 
and  the  opposition  party  came  into  power.  Pedro  Araujo  Lima, 
then  minister  of  the  Empire,  assumed  the  Eegency  by  virtue  of  a 
provision  of  the  Constitution,  although  Yasconcellos  was  the  prime 
mover  in  the  new  order  of  affairs.  No  commotion  took  place,  and 
it  was  evident  that  the  strength  of  the  new  Government  consisted 
in  union.  A  different  policy  was  adopted  toward  the  boy  Emperor. 
Feijo  had  been  distant  and  unceremonious;  the  new  administration 
became  over-attentive.  More  display  Avas  made  on  public  occasions, 
and  the  inclinations  of  a  people  passionately  fond  of  the  pomp  and 
circumstance  of  royalty  began  to  be  fully  gratified.  In  October, 
1838,  the  votes  of  the  new  election  were  canvassed,  and  Lima  was 
installed  Eegent.  His  terra  of  oflSce  was  to  cover  the  minority  of 
the  Emperor. 

Whether  the  Eegent  himself  expected  such  a  result  or  not,  it 
soon  became  apparent  that  the  dignity  of  his  office  was  quite 
eclipsed  by  the  new  honors  with  which  the  young  sovereign  was 
complimented.  The  frequent  changes  of  ministry  hitherto  had 
embarrassed  the  diplomacy  of  the  Brazilian  Government,  and  had 
caused  much  dissatisfaction  to  foreign  powers,  who  were  unwilling 
to  see  their  claims  neglected  from  any  cause.  By  degrees,  how- 
ever, the  foreign  as  well  as  the  internal  affairs  of  the  Government 
became  more  permanently  adjusted. 

The  year  1840  was  signalized  in  Brazil  by  a  new  and  startling 
political  revolution,  which  resulted  in  the  abolition  of  the  Eegency. 
The  Emperor,  Dom  Pedro  II.,  was  now  in  his  fifteenth  year;  and 
the  political  party  opposed  to  the  Eegent  and  the  existing  ministry 
espoused  the  project  of  declaring  his  minority  expired,  and  of 
elevating  him  at  once  to  the  full  possession  of  his  throne.  This 
project  had  been  occasionally  discussed  during  the  last  five  years. 
But  it  had  always  been  characterized  as  premature  and  absurd-.    It 


218  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

wa<5  argued  that  the  Constitution  limited  the  minority  of  the 
sovereign  to  the  age  of  eighteen  years,  and  that  was  early  enough 
for  any  young  man  to  have  the  task  of  governing  so  vast  an  Em- 
pire. On  the  othey  hand,  it  was  urged  that,  as  to  responsibility,  the 
Constitution  expressly  provided  that  none  should  attach  itself  to 
the  Emperor  under  any  circumstances.  Hence  an  abolition  of  the 
Regency  would,  as  matter  of  course,  devolve  the  powers  of  the 
regent  upon  some  other  officer.  There  would  be  one  difference, 
however.  The  Eegent,  as  such,  enjoyed  the  privileges  of  royalty 
itself,  being  also  perfectly  irresjionsible.  This  circumstance  was 
urged  as  a  great  and  growing  evil.  However  desirable  it  was  for 
a  sovereign  to  possess  the  attribute  of  irresponsibility,  it  was  a 
dangerous  thing  for  a  citizen,  accidentally  elevated  to  office,  to 
have  the  power  of  dispensing  good  or  evil  without  expecting  to 
answer  for  his  conduct.  As  these  subjects  were  discussed,  much 
feeling  was  aroused;  but  the  best-informed  persons  supposed  that 
the  Eegent  would  be  able  to  defeat  the  plan  laid  for  his  overthrow. 

The  debate  upon  the  motion  in  the  House  of  Deputies  to  declare 
the  Emperor  of  age  began  early  in  July,  and  at  first  turned 
principally  upon  constitutional  objections.  The  legislature  had,  in 
fact,  no  power  to  amend  or  overstep  the  Constitution.  But  the 
plan  was  arranged,  minds  were  heated,  and  the  passions  of  the 
people  began  to  be  enlisted.  Violence  of  language  prevailed,  and 
personal  violence  began  to  be  threatened.  Antonio  Carlos  de 
Andrada,  already  described  as  a  man  of  great  learning  and  elo- 
quence, but  at  the  same  time  ^ery  and  uncontrollable,  stood  forth 
as  the  champion  of  the  assailing  party,  accusing  the  Regent  and 
his  ministry  of  usurpation,  especially  since  the  11th  of  March,  when 
the  Imperial  Princess,  Donna  Januaria,  became  of  age.  His  efforts 
were  powerfully  resisted,  but  his  cause  rapidly  gained  favor  both 
in  the  Assembly  and  among  the  people. 

Galvao,  until  recently  attached  to  the  other  party,  made  an 
impressive  speech  on  the  side  of  immediate  acclamation  as 
inevitable. 

Alvares  Machado  demanded  that  party  trammels  should  now  be 
abandoned.  "The  cause  of  the  Emperor  was  the  cause  of  the 
nation,  and  ought  to  receive  the  approbation  of  every  lover  of  the 
country." 


Debates  in  the  House  of  Deputies.  219 

Navarro,  a  young  but  powerful  member  from  Matto  Grosso,  fol- 
lowed in  a  violent  and  denunciatory  speech,  in  which  he  stigmatized 
the  Eegent,  and  all  his  acts,  in  the  most  opprobrious  language. 
Wliile  in  the  heat  of  his  harangue,  he  suddenly  exclaimed,  "  Viva 
a  maioridade  de  sua  Majestade  Imperial!"  The  crowded  galleries 
had  hitherto  observed  the  most  religious  silence;  but  this  exclama- 
tion drew  forth  a  burst  of  enthusiastic  and  prolonged  applause. 
Navarro,  no  longer  able  to  make  himself  heard,  drew  his  hand- 
kerchief from  his  bosom  to  respond  to  the  vivas  from  the  gallery. 
Members  of  the  other  party  sitting  near  him  imagined  they  saw  a 
dagger  gleaming  in  his  hand,  and,  not  knowing  whose  turn  might 
come  first,  began  to  flee  for  their  lives.  One  seized  Navarro  to 
keep  him  quiet;  but  he,  not  perceiving  the  reason  of  the  assault, 
furiousl}^  repelled  it.  For  a  few  moments  the  most  intense  and 
uncontrollable  excitement  prevailed;  but  order  was  soon  restored. 

Crowds  of  people  now  assembled  out  of  doors,  demanding  the 
elevation  of  the  young  Emperor.  Some  went  so  far  as  to  proclaim 
his  majority  in  the  public  squares  of  the  city.  The  ministerial 
party  desperately  resisted  these  strange  movements  in  the  House, 
but  they  were  unable  to  stave  otf  the  debate. 

Lirapo  de  Abreo,  (afterward  Visconde  de  Abaete,)  an  ex-minis- 
ter, was  in  favor  of  the  Eevolution,  but  he  wished  it  to  be  a  deli- 
berate and  consistent  one, — at  least  preceded  by  the  report  of  a 
committee  justifying  the  step.  After  much  opposition  to  the  mea- 
sure, the  committee  was  appointed,  and  a  momentary  calm  ensued. 
During  the  night  both  parties  reviewed  their  positions.  The  clubs 
and  lodges,  held  their  sessions,  and  the  opposition  met  in  caucus. 
The  Eegent  and  his  ministry  were  also  in  conclave.  Vasconcellos, 
the  Senator  from  ]\[inas-Geraes,  the  veteran  politician,  but  a  man 
who  had  long  been  obnoxious  on  account  of  great  moral  delin- 
quencies, was  called  in  as  their  counsellor. 

The  session  of  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  next  day  was  opened  in 
the  midst  of  the  deepest  anxiety.  The  galleries  were  crowded  with 
people.  The  report  of  the  committee  was  anxiously  looked  for, 
and  indeed  imperiously  demanded,  but  did  not  appear. 

Navarro  accused  the  majority  of  the  committee  of  treacherously 
intending  delay.  He  urged  the  immediate  and  unceremonious 
declaration  of  the  Emperor's  majority.     He  appealed  to  the  galle- 


220  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

ries,  and  received  a  deafening  response  of  vivas  to  Dom  Pedro  II. 
Indescribable  confusion  ensued.  The  President  of  the  Chamber 
attempted  to  call  up  the  order  of  the  day ;  but  it  was  impossible. 
The  absorbing  question  must  be  discussed.  The  more  moderate  of 
the  Opposition  wished  the  j'oung  EmjDcror's  elevation  deferred  till 
his  birthday, — the  2d  of  December.  The  more  violent  exclaimed 
vehemently  against  any  delay  Avhatever.  The  debate  was  pro- 
tracted to  an  unusual  length.  In  the  midst  of  it  a  messenger 
entered,  bearing  documents  from  the  Regent.  They  were  read  by 
the  Secretary.  The  first  was  a  nomination  of  Bernardo  Pereira  de 
Vasconccllos  as  Minister  of  the  Empire !  At  the  mention  of  the 
name  of  Vasconccllos,  irrepressible  sensations  of  indignation  were 
apparent  throughout  the  House.  The  Secretary  proceeded  to  read 
the  second  document,  which  proved  to  be  an  act  of  prorogation, 
adjourning  the  General  Assembly  over  from  that  moment  to  the 
20th  of  November  following. 

Confusion  and  indignation  were  now  at  their  height.  The  people 
in  the  galleries  could  not  be  restrained.  They  poured  down  a  tor- 
rent of  imprecations  upon  the  administration,  mingled  with  vivas 
to  the  majority  of  Dom  Pedro  II.  Antonio  Carlos,  Martin  Fran- 
cisco, (the  two  Andradas,)  Limpo  de  Abreo,  sprang  to  their  feet, 
and  one  after  the  other  entered  their  vehement  protests  against 
this  act  of  madness  on  the  part  of  the  Government.  They  charged 
the  Begent  with  treason,  and  declared  that  every  Brazilian  should 
resist  his  high-handed  measures.  Tliey  represented  Lima  as 
clutching,  with  a  death-gT*asp,  the  power  that  was  about  to  escape 
from  his  hands.  Thc}^  denounced  him  as  a  usurper,  willing  to 
sacrifice  the  monarch  and  the  throne,  at  the  hazard  of  lighting  up 
the  flames  of  civil  war  in  every  corner  of  the  Empire.  Vasconccllos 
was  portrayed  as  a  monster  whose  name  was  significant  of  every 
vice  and  crime,  and  withal  the  worst  enemy  the  Emperor  had;  but 
it  was  into  his  hands  that  the  young  monarch  was  now  betrayed  I 

The  President  of  the  House  attempted  to  enforce  the  Act  of  Pro- 
rogation, but  was  prevented.  Antonio  Carlos  de  Andrada  now 
started  forth,  and  called  upon  every  Brazilian  patriot  to  follow  him 
to  the  halls  of  the  Senate, — situated  upon  the  Campo  de  Santa 
Anna,  and  nearly  a  mile  distant.  His  friends  in  the  House,  and 
the  people  en  masse,  accomj)anied  him.     The  multitude  increased 


Acclamation  of  Dom  Pedro  H.  221 

at  every  step.  On  the  arrival  of  the  Deputies  at  the  Senate,  the 
two  Houses  instantly  resolved  themselves  into  joint  session,  and 
appointed  a  deputation,  with  Antonio  Carlos  at  its  Lead,  to  wait 
upon  the  Emperor  and  obtain  his  consent  to  the  acclamation. 
During  the  absence  of  the  deputation,  several  of  the  Senators  en- 
dearored  to  calm  the  passions  of  the  people.  The  multitude  with- 
out had  increased  to  the  number  of  several  thousand.  No  soldiers 
appeared;  but  the  cadets  of  the  Military  Academy,  in  the  heat  of 
their  juvenile  enthusiasm,  rushed  to  arms  and  prepared  to  defend 
their  sovereign. 

Presently  the  deputation  returned,  and  announced  that,  after  its 
members  had  represented  to  the  Emperor  the  state  of  affairs  which 
existed  at  the  present  crisis,  His  Majesty  had  consented  to  assume 
the  reins  of  government,  and  had  ordered  the  Eegent  to  revoke  his 
obnoxious  decrees  and  to  pronounce  the  Chambers  again  in  ses- 
sion. Thunders  of  applause  followed  this  announcement.  The 
enthusiasm  of  the  people  knew  no  bounds.  The  country  was  saved, 
and  no  blood  was  shed !  The  citizens  proceeded  to  congratulate 
one  another  upon  this  peaceful  triumph  of  public  opinion. 

The  discussions  of  the  Assembly  turned  upon  the  manner  of  con- 
summating the  revolution  which  had  thus  singulai-ly  commenced. 
Lima  was  now  stigmatized  as  the  ex-Pegent,  and  was  pronounced 
incompetent  to  reassemble  the  body  which  he  had  tried  to  pro- 
rogue. The  Marquis  of  Paranagua,  President  of  the  Senate, 
declared  that  neither  House  was  now  in  session,  but  that  the  mem- 
bers of  both  composed  an  august  popular  assemblage,  personifying 
the  nation,  demanding  that  their  Emperor  be  considered  no  longer 
a  minor.  It  was  finally  resolved  to  remain  in  permanent  session 
until  His  Majesty  should  appear  and  receive  in  their  presence  the 
oath  prescribed  by  the  Constitution.  The  Assembly  consequently 
remained  in  the  Senate-House  all  night.  A  body  of  the  National 
Guards,  the  alumni  of  the  Military  Academy,  and  numerous  citizens, 
also  remained  to  guard  them. 

At  daylight  the  people  generally  began  to  reassemble.  By  ten 
o'clock  not  les3  than  eight  or  ten  thousand  of  the  most  respectable 
citizens  sirrounded  the  palace  of  the  Senate.  At  that  hour  the 
President  of  the  Assembly  made  a  formal  declaration  of  the  objects 
of  the  present  convocation.     The  rolls  of  both  Houses  were  then 


222  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

called,  and  the  legal  number,  both  of  Senators  and  of  Deputies, 
being  found  pi-esent,  the  President  arose  and  said: — 

"I,  as  the  organ  of  the  Eei^resentatives  of  this  nation  in  General 
Assembly  convened,  declare  that  His  Majesty  Dom  Pcdi'o  II.  is 
from  this  moment  in  his  majority,  and  in  the  full  exercise  of  his 
constitutional  prerogatives.  The  majority  of  His  Majesty  Senhor 
Dom  Pedro  II. !  Viva  Senhor  Dom  Pedro  II.,  constitutional  Em- 
peror and  perpetual  defender  of  Brazil ! !  Viva  Senhor  Dom  Pedro 
11.!!!" 

Millions  of  vivas  from  the  members  of  the  Assembly,  from  the 
Bpectators  in  the  gallery,  and  from  the  multitude  in  the  Campo,  now 
rent  the  air  in  response,  and  were  prolonged  with  indescribable 
enthusiasm  and  delight.  Deputations  were  appointed  to  wait  upon 
His  Majesty  when  he  should  arrive,  and  to  prepare  a  proclamation 
for  the  Empire.  At  half-past  three  o'clock  the  Imperial  escort  ap- 
peared. His  Majesty  was  preceded  by  the  dignitaries  of  the  jjalace, 
and  followed  by  his  Imperial  sisters.  On  beholding  the  young 
Emperor,  the  enthusiasm  of  the  crowd  exceeded  any  former  limit. 
Nothing  but  a  reiteration  of  vivas  could  be  heard  in  the  Campo 
daring  the  whole  ceremony.  His  Majesty  was  received  with  all 
possible  formality,  and  conducted  to  the  throne,  near  which  the 
members  of  the  diplomatic  corps  were  already  seated  in  their 
court-uniform.  The  Emperor  now  knelt  down  and  received  the 
oath  f)rescribed  by  the  Constitution;  and,  after  the  auto  de  Jura- 
mento  was  read  aloud  and  solemnly  signed,  the  following  proclama- 
tion, already  drafted  by  Antonio  Carlos  de  Andrada,  and  approved 
by  the  Assembly,  was  now  uttered: — 

"Brazilians! — The  General  Legislative  Assembly  of  Brazil,  re- 
cognising that  happy  intellectual  development  with  which  it  has 
pleased  Divine  Providence  to  endow  his  Imperial  Majesty  Dom 
Pedro  II.,  recognising  also  the  inherent  evils  which  attach  them- 
selves to  an  unsettled  government, — witnessing,  moreover,  the 
unanimous  desire  of  the  peo])le  of  this  capital,  which  it  believes  to 
be  in  perfect  accordance  with  the  desire  of  the  whole  Empire, — viz. : 
to  confer  upon  our  august  monarch  the  powers  which  the  Constitu- 
tion secures  to  him;  therefore,  in  view  of  such  important  con- 
siderations, this  body  has,  for  the  well-being  of  the  country,  seen 
fit  to  declare  the  majority  of  Dom  Pedro  II.,  so  that  he  may  enter 


Public  Congratulations.  223 

at  once  upon  the  full  exercise  of  his  powers  as  constitutional 
Emperor  and  perpetual  defender  of  Brazil.  Our  august  monarch 
has  just  taken  in  our  presence  the  solemn  oath  required  by  the 
Constitution. 

"Brazilians!  The  hopes  of  the  nation  are  converted  into 
reality.  A  new  era  has  dawned  upon  us.  May  it  be  one  of 
uninterrupted  union  and  prospei'ity !  May  we  prove  worthy  of  so 
great  a  blessing !" 

After  the  ceremonies  of  the  occasion  had  been  completed,  His 
Majesty  proceeded  to  the  city  palace,  accompanied  by  the  National 
Guards  and  the  people.  In  the  evening  a  numerous  and  splendid 
reception  took  place,  and  the  joy  of  the  whole  city  was  manifested 
by  a  spontaneous  and  most  brilliant  illumination. 

To  the  astonishment  of  every  one,  the  revolution  was  now  com- 
plete. The  Regency  was  abolished;  perfect  tranquillity  prevailed; 
and  Dom  Pedro  11. — the  boy  who,  when  six  years  old,  had  been 
acclaimed  sovereign  of  a  vast  Empire — was  now  at  fifteen  invested 
with  all  the  prerogatives  of  his  Imperial  throne.  The  youthful 
Emperor  was  very  tall  for  his  age,  but  not  of  the  handsome  pro- 
portions for  which  he  is  now  so  distinguished.  His  mind  was  of 
an  exceedingly  mature  cast.  As  a  student  he  was,  it  may  be  said 
without  any  exaggeration,  most  remarkable  in  his  tastes,  applica- 
tion, and  rapid  advancement.  The  study  of  the  natural  sciences 
— not  a  mere  smattering  of  them,  but  the  most  thorough  and 
abstruse  investigation — was  his  delight;  and  his  facility  for  ac- 
quiring language  was  such,  that  this  day  he  can  converse  in  the 
principal  tongues  of  Europe.  It  was  therefore  no  empty  phrase 
which  Antonio  Carlos  do  Andrada  used  when  he  spoke  of  the 
''happy  intellectual  development"  of  His  young  Imperial  Majesty. 
He  was  not  a  mere  "  boy  Emperor." 

The  preceding  year  had  witnessed  the  inauguration  of  steam- 
navigation  along  the  whole  Brazilian  sea-coast,  so  that  the  news 
of  the  recent  events  at  Eio  de  Janeiro  was  soon  made  known  in 
every  town  of  the  extensive  Atlantic  board,  and  by  special  couriers 
in  a  few  weeks  the  most  remote  parts  of  the  wide  Empire  were 
sending  up  their  vivas  for  Dom  Pedro  II. 

Congratulations  were  the  order  of  the  day.  Every  society, 
every  public  institution,  every  province,  and  nearly  every  town, 


224  .  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

from  the  capital  to  the  remotest  parts  of  the  Empire,  hastened,  on 
the  reception  of  the  news,  not  only  to  celebrate  the  event  with 
extravagant  rejoicing,  but  also  to  send  a  deputation  to  utter,  in  the 
presence  of  the  Emperor,  their  most  profound  sentiments  of  joy  at 
his  elevation  to  the  sovereignty,  and  their  cherished  hopes  of  his 
prosperity  and  happiness. 

Thus  Avas  accomplished,  without  bloodshed,  the  third  j^opular 
revolution  of  Brazil.  The  Constitution,  with  the  exception  of  the 
article  relating  to  the  majority  of  the  Emperor,  remained  intact. 

In  regard  to  tlie  peculiar  form  of  rule  of  the  pi-eceding  nine 
years,  it  may  be  said  that  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  govern- 
ment of  the  Regency  was  a  benefit' to  Brazil.  During  the  entire 
period  of  its  existence  it  had  to  struggle  with  serious  financial 
difficulties,  and  also  with  the  formidable  rebellion  of  Rio  Grande 
do  Sul,  besides  temporal  outbreaks  in  other  provinces.  Neverthe- 
less, improvement  became  the  order  of  the  day,  and,  in  various 
ways,  was  really  secured. 

The  personal  rule  of  the  Emperor  commenced  under  auspicious 
circumstances.  lie  was  the  object  of  an  enthusiasm  w^hich  has 
never  waned.  The  two  leaders  of  his  first  Cabinet  were  Antonio 
Carlos  and  Martin  Francisco  Andrada.  Their  elder  brother, 
Jose  Bonifacio,  was  no  more.  In  1833,  upon  his  deposition  as  tutor 
to  the  Emperor,  he  withdrew  from  public  life,  and  retired  to  the 
beautiful  island  of  Paqueta  in  the  Bay  of  Rio,  w^here  he  remained 
until  a  short  time  before  his  death  at  Nictherohy  in  1838. 

Antonio  Carlos  at  the  very  outset  frankly  and  lucidly  set  forth 
the  principles  upon  which  the  ministerial  action  would  be  based 
under  the  new  order  of  things.  Those  principles  were  safe  and 
consistent;  and  from  the  known  energy  of  the  Andradas,  together 
with  their  associates,  it  may  be  presumed  that  no  eftbrts  were 
spared  to  put  them  in  practice. 

The  nation  at  large  was  exhilarated  with  the  idea  of  the  glorious 
revolution  that  had  transpired ;  but  the  legislature,  tired  by  its 
recent  paroxj'sms,  soon  fell  back  into  its  old  method  of  doing  busi- 
ness. The  first  leading  measure  of  the  opposition  was  the  appoint- 
ment of  a  Council  of  State,  the  members  of  which  were  to  hold  the 
office  of  special  advisers  to  the  Emperor.  It  became  an  immediate 
and  protracted  subject  of  discussion,  but  did  not  succeed  till  late  in 


Preparations  for  the  Coronation.  226 

the  following  year.  Things  throughout  the  Empire  moved  on  in 
their  ordinary  course,  save  that,  when  the  subject  of  the  Emperor's 
elevation  lost  its  novelty,  that  of  his  approaching  coronation  became 
the  theme  of  universal  interest  and  of  unbounded  anticipation. 

The  early  part  of  the  year  1841  was  fixed  upon  for  the  corona- 
tion. Preparations  for  that  event  were  set  on  foot  long  in  advance 
of  the  time.  Expectants  of  honors  and  emoluments  attempted  to 
rival  each  other  in  parade  and  display.  Extraordinary  embassies 
were  sent  out  from  the  different  courts  of  Europe,  in  compliment 
to  the  Brazilian  throne. 

While  diplomatists  and  politicians  were  intent  upon  sharing  the 
honors  of  this  occasion,  the  artisans  and  shopkeepers  of  the  me- 
tropolis displayed  quite  as  much  tact  in  securing  the  j)rofits  of  it. 
Exorbitant  prices  were  demanded  for  every  article  of  ornament 
and  luxury;  but  those  articles  had  now  become  necessary,  and 
aspiring  poverty,  not  less  than  grudging  avarice,  was  compelled 
^o  submit  to  extortion. 

Before  the  next  session  of  the  General  Assembly  difficulties  had 
occurred  which  seriously  embarrassed  the  administration.  Several 
of  the  provinces  had  resisted  the  new  appointments  of  presidents, 
and  in  so  doing  had  manifested  tendencies  to  revolution.  But  the 
most  serious  evil  grew  out  of  the  lonflc-standinij  rebellion  in  Rio 
Grande  do  Sul.  In  the  anxiety  of  the  Cabinet  to  bring  this  inter- 
nal war  to  a  close,  Alvares  Machado  had  been  appointed  an  agent 
of  the  Government  to  treat  with  the  rebels.  Much  confidence  had 
been  reposed  in  his  personal  influence  with  those  in  revolt,  and  he 
had  been  invested  with  extraordinary  and  unconstitutional  powers. 
But,  with  all  the  facilities  offered  them,  the  insurgents  refused  to 
compromise.  Machado  was  then  appointed  President  of  the  j)ro- 
vince. 

In  this  office,  instead  of  wielding  a  rod  of  iron,  as  his  predeces- 
sors had  done,  or  had  attempted  to  do,  he  adopted  conciliatory 
measures,  and  rather  entreated  a  negotiation.  This  attitude  was 
stigmatized  as  dishonorable  to  the  Empire,  and  such  an  outcry  was 
made  in  regard  to  it  as  to  excite  general  alarm  lest  the  interests 
of  the  throne  should  be  betrayed.  This  outcry  was  aimed  at  the 
ministry.  A  change  was  demanded,  and  was  at  length  obtained. 
On  the  23d  of  March  the  Andradas  and  their  friends,  with  a  single 

15 


226  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

exception,  were  dismissed;  and  thus  those  who  had  brought  abcut 
the  new  order  of  things  were  supplanted,  just  in  time  for  their  op- 
ponents to  secure  the  decorations  and  the  emoluments  that  were 
soon  to  be  distributed. 

Mortifying  as  this  circumstance  may  have  been  in  some  of  its 
bearings,  it  caused  no  grief  to  the  Andradas  in  view  of  their  per- 
sonal wishes.  They  could  point  to  the  early  days  of  their  political 
prosperity,  in  proof  of  their  disinterested  devotion  to  their  country. 
They  could  now,  as  then,  retire  in  honorable  poverty,  preserving 
the  claim  of  pure  patriotism  as  a  more  precious  treasure  than 
wealth  or  titles.  Theirs  was  the  distinction  that  would  cause  pos- 
terity to  inquire  why  they  did  not  receive  the  honors  they  had 
deserved.  Other  men  were  welcome  to  the  ignominy  of  wearing 
titles  they  had  never  merited. 

When  the  General  Assembly  convened  in  May,  it  was  found  ex- 
pedient to  postpone  the  coronation.  Thus,  for  two  months  longer 
this  anticipated  fete  continued  to  be  the  all-engrossing  topic  of 
conversation  and  of  preparation  in  every  circle,  from  the  Emperor 
and  Princesses  down  to  the  lowest  classes.  That  anxiously-looked- 
for  event  transpired  at  length,  on  the  18th  of  July,  1841.  It  was 
magnificent  beyond  the  expectations  of  the  most  sanguine.  The 
splendor  of  the  day  itself, — the  unnumbered  thousands  of  citizens 
and  strangers  that  thronged  the  streets, — the  tasteful  and  costly 
decorations  displayed  in  the  public  squares  and  in  front  of  private 
houses, — the  triumphal  arches, — the  pealing  salutes  of  music  and 
of  cannon, — the  perfect  order  and  tranquillity  that  prevailed  in  the 
public  processions  and  ceremonies  of  the  day,  together  with  nearly 
everything  else  that  could  be  imagined  or  wished, — seemed  to  com- 
bine and  make  the  occasion  one  of  the  most  imposing  that  ever 
transpired  in  the  New  World.  The  act  of  consecration  was  per- 
formed in  the  Imperial  Chapel,  and  was  followed  by  a  levee  in  the 
palace  of  the  city.  The  illuminations  at  night  were  upon  a  splen- 
did scale,  and  the  festivities  of  the  occasion  were  prolonged  nine 
successive  days. 

So  far  as  pomp  and  parade  could  promote  the  stability  of  a 
Government  and  secure  a  lasting  respect  for  a  crown,  every  thing 
was  done  for  Brazil  on  that  day  that  possibly  could  be  done  with- 
out greater  means  at  command.     There  were  circumstances,  how- 


The  Council  of  State.  227 

ever,  connected  with  the  monarchial  pomp  and  the  lavish  expendi- 
tures of  this  coronation,  which  could  not  fail  to  be  very  embarrass- 
ing to  those  who  had  to  struggle  with  them.  The  finances  of  the 
Empire  were  at  the  very  lowest  ebb,  and  constantly  deteriorating. 
The  money  used  in  support  of  this  grand  fete,  including  an  expense 
of  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  for  an  Imperial  crown,  was  bor- 
rowed, and  added  to  an  immense  public  debt.  In  addition  to  this, 
the  Government  was  far  from  being  stable  and  settled.  Its 
councils  were  divided,  and  its  policy  vacillating.  The  existence 
of  this  state  of  things  formed  a  principal  j)retext  for  the  splendid 
demonstration  alluded  to.  It  was  thought  to  be  an  object  of  the 
first  importance  to  surround  the  throne  with  such  a  degree  of 
splendor  as  would  forever  hallow  it  in  the  eyes  of  the  people. 

After  the  coronation,  the  sessions  of  the  General  Assembl}"  were 
resumed.  On  the  23d  of  November  a  law  was  passed  establishing 
the  Conselho  de  Estado.  This  body  was  modelled  upon  the  double 
basis  of  the  ordinary  and  extraordinary  Privy  Councils  of  Great 
Britain.  Among  the  gentlemen  composing  this  Council  were  Lima, 
Calmon,  Carneiro  Leao,  and  Vasconcellos.  The  verj-  individuals  who 
oj)posed  the  Andradas  at  the  period  of  the  young  Emperor's  eleva- 
tion, and  who  were  then  put  down  by  acclamation,  had,  in  the 
short  space  of  a  year,  not  only  managed  to  get  back  into  public 
favor,  but  also  to  secure  life -appointments  of  the  most  influential 
kind. 

Vasconcellos,  it  is  true,  sought  no  titles.  They  were  playthings 
which  he  could  easily  dispense  with  for  the  gratification  of  his 
fellow-partisans.  But  he  loved  power,  and  neither  mortifications 
nor  defeat  diverted  him  an  instant  from  its  pursuit.  He  finally 
gained  a  position  which  probably  suited  his  inclinations  better 
than  any  other,  and  in  which,  as  the  master-spirit  of  the  body, 
his  influence  must  be  widely  felt. 

On  the  1st  of  January,  1842,  the  Honorable  Mr.  Hunter,*  United 
States  Charge  d'Aff'aires  at  Eio  de  Janeiro,  presented  to  His  Majesty 
the  Emperor  his  credentials  as  envoy-extraordinary  and  minister- 

*  No  foreign  diplomatist  in  Brazil  left  warmer  friends  than  the  late  Honorable 
Mr.  Hunter,  of  Rhode  Island.  His  accomplishments  as  a  scholar  and  his  afia- 
bility  as  a  gentleman  won  the  hearts  of  all. 


228  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

plenipotentiary,  to  which  i-ank  he  had  been  advanced.  Thia  com- 
l)liment  was  speedily  reciprocated  by  the  ajipointment  of  the 
Honorable  Mr,  Lisbon  as  the  minister  of  Brazil  at  Washington. 

In  continuance  of  the  present  historical  sketch  of  Brazilian 
affairs,  it  is  painful  to  add  that  the  year  1842  was  marked  by 
rej)catcd  and  serious  disturbances  in  different  parts  of  the  Empire. 
The}'  commenced  with  the  elections  for  deputies.  Various  frauds 
had  been  enacted,  by  suddenly  changing  the  day,  hour,  and  places 
of  elections.  What  was  worse,  bodies  of  troops  and  armed  men 
were  introduced  to  influence  votes,  while  crowds  of  voters  Avere 
brought  in  from  other  districts.  In  short,  bribery,  corruption,  and 
force  triumphed  over  the  free  exercise  of  public  opinion.  It  is 
not  to  be  presumed  that  one  party  was  guilty  of  these  measures 
alone;  but  it  ajipeared,  in  the  issue,  that  the  opposition  had  suc- 
ceeded and  that  the  ministei'ial  party  was  in  the  minority.  The 
conduct  of  the  ministry  was  such — though  they  acted  with  some 
degree  of  plausibility  in  regard  to  preventing  the  regular  meeting 
of  the  Assembly  and  in  issuing  a  decree  for  an  extraordinary 
session — that  the  sounds  of  rebellion  were  heard  in  parts  of  the 
Empire  which  hitherto  had  been  the  most  faithful  and  the  most 
tranquil.  San  Paulo  and  Minas-Geraes  were  in  commotion  and 
disorder.  The  utmost  consternation  prevailed,  and  even  at  the 
capital  an  incendiary  proclamation  was  posted  up  at  the  corners 
of  the  streets,  calling  upon  the  people  to  free  the  Emperor  from 
the  domination  which  had  been  imposed  upon  him,  and  to  rescue 
both  the  throne  and  the  Constitution  from  threatened  annihilation. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  Brazilians,  in  their  internal 
commotions,  put  the  blame  in  the  right  place,  and  have  ever 
rallied  around  J).  Pedro.  He,  on  the  other  hand,  has  always 
proved,  by  his  character  and  by  his  measures,  worthy  of  their 
devotion.  The  power  of  the  Emperor  of  Brazil  is  not  like  that 
of  the  monarch  of  Eussia,  but  is  as  limited  as  that  of  the  sove- 
reign of  the  British  realm. 

The  Government  was  now  driven  to  extreme  measures.  The 
militia  was  called  out,  and  martial  law  was  proclaimed  in  the 
three  disturbed  provinces.  The  supremacy  of  the  law  was  main- 
tained. The  prospects  of  the  Empire  were  for  a  short  time  very 
gloomy  and  unpromising,   but  by  degrees  the  storm  blow  over. 


The  Imperial  Marriages.  229 

Order  was  gradually  restored  without  actual  hostilities  or  the  loss 
of  many  lives.  The  worst  consequences  of  the  rebellion  were  expe- 
rienced in  the  disti'icts  where  it  occurred,  although  public  con- 
fidence and  the  national  revenue  suffered  severely. 

The  elections  at  the  close  of  the  j'ear  occurred  with  more  quiet- 
ness, and  on  the  1st  of  January,  1843,  the  Emperor  oj)ened  the 
General  Assembly  in  person,  and  a  new  ministry'  was  appointed. 
From  that  time  to  this  there  has  been  a  softening  down  of  parties 
and  factions ;  and,  though  there  has  always  been  a  certain  amount 
of  corruption  and  unscrupulousncss  in  the  political  affairs  of  the 
nation,  no  great  disturbances  have  affected  its  welfare,  and  there 
has  been  a  constant  tendency  to  obedience  to  law.  In  connection 
with  this,  financial  diflSculties  were  diminished  and  national 
prosperity  increased. 

The  most  remarkable  public  events  that  transpired  at  Rio 
during  the  year  1843  were  the  Imperial  marriages.  They  were 
celebrated  with  great  rejoicings  and  all  possible  splendor. 

As  earl}^  as  July,  1842,  the  Emperor  Dom  Pedro  II.  had  rati- 
fied a  contract  of  marriage  with  Iler  Eoyal  Highness  the  Most 
Serene  Princess  Senhora  Donna  Theresa  Christina  Maria,  the 
august  sister  of  His  Majesty  the  King  of  the  Two  Sicilies.  The 
marriage  was  duly  solemnized  at  Naples,  and,  on  the  5th  of  March, 
a  Brazilian  squadron,  composed  of  a  frigate  and  two  corvettes, 
sailed  from  Rio  de  Janeiro  to  the  Mediterranean,  to  conduct  the 
Empress  to  her  future  home. 

In  the  mean  time,  on  the  27th  of  March,  a  French  squadron 
arrived,  under  the  command  of  His  Roj'al  Highness  Prince  de  Join- 
ville,  son  of  Louis  Philippe.  This  was  Joinville's  second  visit  to 
Brazil.  Soon  after  his  arrival  he  made  matrimonial  propositions 
to  Her  Imperial  Highness  Donna  Francisca,  the  third  sister  of  the 
Emperor.  The  customary  negotiations  were  closed  with  despatch. 
On  the  1st  of  May  the  marriage  was  solemnized  at  Boa  Vista. 
On  the  13th  of  May  the  Prince  and  his  Imperial  bride  sailed  for 
Europe. 

The  Empress  Donna  Theresa  arrived  at  Rio  on  the  3d  of  Sep- 
tember, and  was  received  not  only  with  magnificent  ceremonies, 
but  also  with  sincere  cordiality  on  the  part  of  the  Brazilians. 

It  may  be  mentioned  here  that  the  eldest  sister  of  D.  Pedro  II., 


230  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Donna  Maria,  Queen  of  Portugal,  had  previously  taken,  as  hot 
royal  consort.  Prince  Fernando  Augusto,  of  Saxe-Coburg  Gotha; 
and  on  the  28th  of  April,  1844,  Iler  Imperial  Highness  Donna 
Januaria  was  also  married  to  a  Neapolitan  prince, —  the  Count 
of  Aquilla,  brother  to  the  Emjircss  of  Brazil  and  the  King  of  the 
Two  Sicilies.  Thus,  in  the  course  of  a  single  j^ear,  the  Imperial 
family  of  Brazil  contracted  honorable  and  flattering  alliances  with 
the  courts  of  Euroj^e. 

In  1844,  Brazil  was  rejoiced  by  the  birth  of  the  Imperial  Prince 
Dom  Affonso;  but  his  untimely  death  the  following  year  brought 
mourning  u2:»on  the  nation.  In  1846,  the  Princess  Isabella  (the 
present  heir-presumptive)  was  born,  and,  in  1847,  her  sister,  the 
Donna  Leopoldina.  In  case  of  the  death  of  these  princesses,  and 
the  demise  of  the  Emperor  without  other  issue,  the  Constitution 
provides  that  the  eldest  child  (Donna  Januaria)  shall  be  heir  to 
the  Imperial  throne. 

In  1850,  the  slave-trade  (which  had  continued  despite  solemn 
treaties)  was  effectually  put  down  ;  and,  soon  after,  a  number  of  the 
leading  dealers  in  the  inhuman  traffic — men  who  had  hitherto  held 
high  position  in  society — were  banished. 

The  same  j^ear  witnessed  the  first  steamship-line  to  Eui"ope ; 
and  now  the  Empire  is  united  to  the  Old  World  by  no  less  than 
three  lines;  and  one  line  links  together  the  two  Americas. 

For  the  last  ten  years  the  progress  of  Brazil  has  been  onward. 
Her  public  credit  abroad  is  of  the  highest  character.  Internal 
improvements  have  been  projected  and  are  being  executed  on  a 
large  scale;  tranquillity  has  prevailed,  undisturbed  by  the  slightest 
provincial  revolt;  party  spirit  has  lost  its  early  virulence;  the 
attention  of  all  is  more  than  ever  directed  to  the  peaceful  triumphs 
of  agriculture  and  legitimate  commerce;  public  instruction  is  being 
more  widelj''  diffused ;  and,  though  much  is  yet  required  to  elevate 
the  masses,  still,  if  Brazil  shall  continue  to  carry  out  the  principles 
of  her  noble  Constitution,  and  if  education  and  morality  shall 
abound  in  her  borders,  she  will  in  due  time  take  position  in  the 
first  rank  of  nations. 

Note  for  1866. — In  October,  1864,  the  Princess  Imperial,  Donna  Isabella,  was  married  to  Prince 
Louis  Philippe  M.  F.  Gaston  d"Orleans,  Count  d'Eu,  eldest  son  of  the  Due  de  Nemours.  They  sj)ent 
the  greatf  1-  portion  of  1S65  in  Europe.  In  December,  1.S64,  the  second  Princess,  Donna  Leopoldina, 
was  nuuried  to  Prince  Auguste  of  Saxe-Coburg  Gotha,  whose  mother  was  Clementine  d'Orleans,  sa 
that  both  the  Princesses  married  grandsons  of  Louis  Philippe. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

TH»    EMPEROR    OF    BRAZIL HIS    REMARK.\BLE    TALENTS    AND    ACQUIREMENTS NEW 

YORK    HISTORICAL    SOCIETY THE    FIRST    SIGHT    OF    D.   PEDRO    II. AN    EMPEROE 

ON     BOARD     AN     AMERICAN     STEAMSHIP CAPTAIN     FOSTER     AND     THE    "CITY     OF 

PITTSBURG" HOW     D.    PEDRO    II.    WAS     RECEIVED    BY    THE     "SOVEREIGNS" AN 

EXHIBITION    OF    AMERICAN    ARTS    AND    MANUFACTURES DIFFICULTIES    OVERCOME 

VISIT    OF    THE    EMPEROR HIS    KNOWLEDGE    OF    AMERICAN    AUTHORS SUCCESS 

AMONG    THE    PEOPLE VISIT    TO    THE    PALACE    OF    S.   CHRISTOVAO LONGFELLOW, 

HAWTHORNE,  AND    WEBSTER. 

We  naturally  turn  with  interest  and  a  laudable  curiosity  to  look 
at  the  character  and  abilities  of  the  monarch  who  has  been  called 
by  Providence  to  the  head  of  a  growing  nation.  The  Emperor  of 
Brazil,  by  the  various  limits  of  the  Constitution,  has  not  the  scope 
for  kingcraft  that  is  the  heritage  of  Alexander  II.  or  the  achieve- 
ment of  Napoleon  III.  The  life  of  some  crowned  heads  is  only  an 
official  one;  very  few  of  the  Dei  gratia  rulers  possess  intrinsic 
merit :  they  are  educated,  refined,  and  may  or  may  not  be  affable. 
In  the  eye  of  the  legitimist  their  chief  distinction  is  the  blood  which 
has  coursed  through  the  veins  of  generations  of  kings.  He  Avho  is 
situated  half-way  between  the  legitimist  and  the  red  republican 
regards  with  a  greater  or  less  degree  of  veneration  the  repre- 
sentative of  executive  power  which  he  beholds  in  the  ruler,  and  is 
possibly  excited  to  a  certain  admiration  by  the  amiable  and  bene- 
volent character  which  he  who  sits  upon  the  throne  may  possess. 
But  it  is  very  rare,  in  the  history  of  nations,  to  find  a  monarch 
who  combines  all  that  the  most  scrupulous  legitimist  would  exact, 
who  is  limited  by  all  the  checks  that  a  constitutionalist  would 
require,  and  yet  has  the  greatest  claim  for  the  respect  of  his  sub- 
jects and  the  admiration  of  the  world,  in  his  native  talent  and  in 
his  acquisitions  in  science  and  literature.    These  rare  combinations 

meet  in  Dom  Pedro  II.     In  his  veins  courses  the  united  blood  of 

281 


232  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

the  Braganzas,  the  Bourbons,  and  the  Hajjsburgs.  By  marriage 
he  is  related  to  the  Eoyal  and  Imperial  families  of  England, 
France,  Eussia,  Spain,  and  Naples.  His  fother  (Dom  Pedro  I.) 
was  an  energetic  Braganza;  his  mother  (Donna  Leopoldiua)  a 
Hapsburg,  and  sister-in-law  to  Napoleon  I.  His  relatives,  it  will 
be  seen,  are  of  every  grade, — from  the  constitutional  monarch  to 
the  most  absolute  ruler. 

His  powers,  modified  by  the  Brazilian  Constitution,  have  already 
been  considered;  and  it  remains  to  point  out  his  chief  and  com- 
manding title  to  the  regard  of  his  nation  and  the  world. 

He  has  devoted  much  time  to  the  science  of  chemistry,  and  his 
laboratory  at  San  Christovao  is  always  the  scene  of  new  experi- 
ments. Lieutenant  Strain,  the  noble  hero  of  the  Darien  Expedi- 
tion,— whose  science  is  as  well  known  as  his  kindness  and  bravery, 
— informed  me  that,  on  a  visit  to  Rio  de  Janeiro  more  than  ten 
years  ago,  he  found  the  Emperor  a  thorough  devotee  to  the  studies 
of  natural  phenomena.  Dr  Eeinhardt — who  has  spent  many  years 
in  Brazil  as  a  naturalist — visited  the  capital  of  the  Empire  when 
D.  Pedro  II.  was  not  yet  out  of  his  teens :  the  latter  heard  that  an 
American  savant  was  about  to  enter  upon  a  scientific  exploration 
of  the  Empire,  and  sent  for  him  to  aid  him  in  performing  certain 
new  chemical  experiments,  accounts  of  which  had  been  perused  by 
his  Majesty  in  the  European  journals  of  science.  Dr.  Eeinhardt 
further  added,  that  the  young  monarch,  in  his  enthusiasm,  paid  no 
attention  to  the  time  that  flew  by  as  they,  in  a  tropic  clime  and  a 
close  room,  were  cooped  up  for  hours  over  fumigating  chemicals. 

It  is  well  known  at  Eio  de  Janeiro  that  he  is  a  good  topo- 
graphical engineer,  and  his  theoretical  knowledge  of  perspective  is 
sometimes  put  in  practice;  for  the  German  Prince  Adalbert,  in 
the  published  account  of  his  visit  to  Brazil,  states  that  the  Emperor 
presented  him  with  a  very  creditable  painting  from  the  Imperial 
palette.  He  has  a  great  penchant  for  philological  studies.  I  have 
heard  him  speak  three  different  languages,  and  know,  by  report, 
that  he  converses  in  three  more;  and,  so  far  as  translating  is  con- 
cerned, he  is  acquainted  with  every  principal  Eui'opean  tongue. 
His  library  abounds  in  the  best  histories,  biographies,  and  encyclo- 
pedias. Some  one  has  remarked  that  a  stranger  can  scarcely  start 
a  subject  in  regard  to  his  own  country  that  would  be  foreign  to 


The  Accomplishments  of  D.  Pedro  IL  233 

Dom  Pedro  II.  There  is  not  a  session  of  the  Brazilian  Historical 
Society  from  which  he  is  absent;  and  he  is  familiar  with  the  modern 
literature  of  England,  Germany,  and  the  United  States,  to  a  degree 
of  minuteness  absolutely  surprising.  When  Lamartine's  appeal  for 
assistance  was  wafted  over  the  waters,  it  was  the  Emperor  of 
Brazil  who  rendered  him  greater  material  aid  than  any  other,  by 
subscribing  for  five  thousand  copies  of  his  work,  for  which  he 
remitted  to  the  sensitive  litterateur  one  hundred  thousand  francs. 
His  favorite  modern  poet  is  Mr.  Longfellow,  for  whom  he  has  an 
unbounded  admiration. 

In  literature  and  science  he  is  not,  however,  confined  to  large 
tomes,  but  a  portion  of  each  morning  is  allotted  to  the  perusal 
of  foreign  periodicals  and  journals,  as  well  as  the  publications 
of  Brazil.  That  which  emanates  from  his  own  pen  is  rai-ely  seen  ; 
but  I  have  before  me  some  original  lines  by  the  monarch,  which  a 
member  of  the  diplomatic  corjjs  at  Rio  copied  from  the  album 
of  one  of  the  Imperial  household.  They  were  doubtless  never 
intended  for  the  public  eye;  but  the  justness  of  their  sentiment  in 
English,  if  not  the  mellifluousness  of  their  Portuguese,  is  appre- 
ciable by  every  reader  of  this  work.     (See  Appendix.) 

In  1856,  the  Honorable  Luther  Bradish,  the  accomplished  and 
dignified  presiding  officer  of  the  New  York  Historical  Society,  at 
the  June  meeting  of  that  association,  proposed  Dom  Pedro  II.  as 
an  honorary  member  of  that  learned  body.  The  proposition  was 
seconded  by  Marshal  S.  Bidwell,  Esq.,  and  I  need  hardly  add  that 
the  vote  was  carried  by  acclamation.  The  same  society,  on  a  sub- 
sequent evening,  was  briefly  addressed  by  the  Pev.  Dr.  Osgood, 
whose  remark  in  regard  to  the  Emperor  of  Brazil  is  as  true  as  it 
is  forcible  : — "  Dom  Pedro  II. ,  by  his  character,  and  by  his  taste, 
application,  and  acquisitions  in  literature  and  science,  ascends  from 
his  mere  fortuitous  position  as  Emperor,  and  takes  his  place  in  Lhe 
world  as  a  man." 

The  Brazilian  ruler  receives  his  talents  in  a  direct  line  :  Dom 
Pedro  I.  was  a  man  of  great  energy  and  ability,  and  Donna  Leo- 
poldina  was  not  without  some  of  that  power  which  characterized 
Maria  Theresa.  The  early  studies  of  Dom  Pedro  II.  wex'e  con- 
ducted by  the  Franklin  of  Brazil, — Jose  Bonifacio  de  Andrada ; 
and  we  know  not  how  much  his  tastes  for  science  may  have  been 


234  Brazil  and  tue  Brazilians. 

influenced  by  that  ardent  admirer  of  the  study  of  nature.  His 
mind  early  became  imbued  witli  such  jjursuits,  and,  when  growing 
up  to  manhood,  as  we  have  ah'cady  seen,  he  omitted  no  oppor- 
tunity for  making  additions  to  his  store  of  knowledge. 

The  first  time  that  I  saw  the  Emperor  he  was  in  citizen's  dress, 
accompanied  by  the  Empress.  They  were  in  a  coach-and-six,  pre- 
ceded and  followed  by  horse-guards.  He  hkes  a  rapid  movement, 
and,  whether  on  horseback  or  in  a  carriage,  his  chamberlains  and 
guards  are  kept  at  a  pace  contrary  to  the  usual  manifestations 
of  activity  among  the  Brazilians.  Two  of  the  dragoons  precede 
the  coach  at  full  gallop,  and,  at  the  blast  of  their  bugles,  the  sti*eet 
is  cleared  of  every  encumbrance  in  the  shape  of  promenaders  and 
vehicles.  It  has,  however,  occurred  to  me  that  the  neck-muscles 
of  their  Majesties  must  be  exceedingly  fatigued  after  their  frequent 
city  and  suburban  rides,  for  the  humblest  subject  who  salutes  them 
is  reciprocated  in  his  attention.  Their  usual  afternoon-drive  is 
through  the  Catete  and  Botafogo  to  the  Botanical  Garden. 

A  combination  of  circumstances  brought  me  afterward  into  a 
m.uch  closer  relation  w^ith  his  Majesty  than  as  a  mere  spectator 
of  his  fine  form  when  he  passed  rapidly  by.  In  1852,  during  the 
temporary  absence  of  Mr.  Ferdinand  Coxe,  the  Secretary  of  the 
United  States  Legation  at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  I  was  chosen  to  fill  his 
place,  and  finally,  after  his  resignation,  I  was  aj^pointed  Acting 
Secretary.  In  September,  1852,  it  became  my  duty  to  go  to  the 
Palace  of  San  Christovao  in  company  with  Governor  Kent,  who,  in 
the  absence  of  the  Minister-Plenipotentiary,  held  the  post  of  Charge 
d' Affaires  in  addition  to  that  of  American  Consul.  The  occasion 
that  demanded  this  official  visit  of  Governor  Kent  was,  in  accord- 
ance with  court-etiquette,  to  thank  his  Majest}^  for  having  accepted 
the  invitation  of  the  American  CajDtain  Foster  to  visit  the  "City 
of  Pittsburg."  This  large  merchant-steamer  was  on  its  way  to 
California  via  the  Straits  of  Majellan,  and,  while  stopping  for  coals 
in  the  harbor  of  RiO  de  Janeiro,  the  captain  invited  the  Emperor 
and  his  court  to  an  excursion  on  board  the  splendid  specimen  of 
American  naval  architecture  under  his  command.  The  Emperor 
having  signified  his  acceptance,  all  was  made  ready,  and,  at  eleven 
o'clock,  the  guns  of  the  forts  and  of  the  men-of-war  told  that  the 
Imperial  party  were  embarking  in  the  state-barges  for  the  steamer 


The  Emperor  on  an  American  Steamer.  235 

The  day  was  most  beautiful,  and  Captain  Foster  spared  no  pains  in 
adorning  his  fine  steamer  in  a  manner  worthy  of  his  guests.  Flags 
and  streamers  were  suspended  from  every  mast,  the  standards  of 
the  North  American  Eepublic  and  the  South  American  Emj)iro 
floated  in  unison,  while  a  full  orchestra  from  the  flower-strewn 
deck  sent  forth  the  national  anthems  of  Brazil  and  the  Union. 
"When  the  barges  reached  the  "  City  of  Pittsburg,"  Caj)tain 
raster,  with  the  American  Charge  d'AflEixii*es  by  his  side,  received 
the  Emperor,  and,  when  welcoming  him  on  board,  placed  the 
steamer  at  his  Majesty's  order. 

Doni  Pedro  II.  was  accompanied  by  the  Empress,  and  also  by 
the  Cabinet  Ministers,  the  Imperial  household,  and  the  chief 
officers  of  the  array  and  navy.  All  were  in  full  court-dress,  with 
the  exception  of  their  Majesties. 

The  excursion  was  of  unusual  interest.  The  fine  steamer  of 
twenty-two  hundred  tons  ploughed  her  way  through  the  various 
anchorages  until  she  reached  the  men-of-war;  the  cannon  of  the 
forts  saluted  her  as  she  passed,  and  the  vessels-of-war  not  only 
sent  forth  their  booming  salvos,  but  the  yards  were  manned,  and 
the  sailors  shouted  their  loud  vivas  to  D.  Pedro  II.  In  the  mean 
while,  the  Emperor  examined  the  *'  City  of  Pittsburg"  from  the  coal- 
bunkers  to  her  engine;  and,  as  it  fell  to  my  duty  to  make  many  of 
the  explanations,  it  aff'orded  an  opportunity  for  observing  the  man 
and  forgetting  the  unbending  features  of  the  Emperor.  He  was 
not  content  with  beholding  the  mere  upper-works  of  the  machinery, 
but  descended  into  the  hot  and  oily  quarters  of  the  lower  part 
of  the  ship,  where  the  most  intricate  portion  of  the  engine  was 
situated:  a  half-hour  was  afterward  devoted  to  studying  the 
engraved  plan  of  the  machiner}-,  which  was  further  explained  by 
the  chief  engineer  of  the  steamer,  and  by  Mr.  Grundy,  an  English 
engineer,  who  has  long  been  connected  with  the  Brazilian  navy. 

When  the  investigation  of  the  engine  was  concluded,  the  Emperor 
wished  to  visit  the  forward-deck.  Now,  Americans  are  the  vainest 
people  in  the  world,  and  we  were  all  afraid  that  on  this  part  of 
the  vessel  Dom  Pedro  would  not  only  be  shocked  with  the  ap- 
pearance of  some  very  rough  specimens  of  humanity  on  their  way 
to  the  gold-regions  of  the  Pacific,  but  that  the  said  specimens  would 
not  give  His  Majesty  the  reception  which  was  due  to  his  station  as 


236  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

the  Executive  head  of  the  most  powerful  South  American  Govern- 
ment. The  Emperor's  attention,  however,  could  not  be  diverted  to 
a  different  point;  and  the  captain,  fearing  and  trembling,  was  led 
to  the  forward-deck.  There,  upon  the  taffrail,  sat  representatives 
of  the  New  York  "Mose,"  the  Philadelphia  ''Killer,"  and  the  Balti- 
more "Plug-ugly."  The  cajitain's  heart  sank  within  him:  he  was 
proud  of  his  shij:),  proud  of  his  illustrious  guest,  but  he  had  very 
little  to  be  proud  of  in  some  of  his  passengers, — especially  the 
unkempt  and  unterrified,  who  wei*e  even  more  picturesque  after 
their  voyage  than  upon  election-day.  The  Emperor  now  ap- 
proached the  sovereigns, — ay,  near  enough  to  have  them  "betwixt 
the  wind  and  his  nobility."  Then  occurred  a  scene,  rich  beyond 
description,  which  could  never  have  taken  place  with  others  than 
Americans  for  actors.  One  of  the  unshaven,  whose  tobacco  had, 
up  to  this  time,  occuiiicd  the  greater  portion  of  his  mouth  and 
thoughts,  suddenly  tumbled  from  the  taffrail,  discharged  his  quid 
into  the  ocean,  and,  hat  in  hand,  yelled  forth,  in  a  well-meaning 
but  terrific  voice,  "Boys,  three  cheers  for  the  Emperor  of  the 
Brazils!"  In  a  twinkle  of  an  eye  every  Californian  was  uj)on  his 
feet;  and  never,  in  their  oft -fought  battles  for  the  "glorious  Demo- 
cracy," did  they  send  forth  such  round  and  hearty  huzzas  as  they 
did  that  day  to  D.  Pedro  II.  The  suddenness,  the  earnestness,  the 
good  intention,  and  the  enthusiasm  of  the  whole  procedure  were 
most  mirth-provoking.  The  captain's  fears  subsided  :  his  pons  asi- 
norum  was  ci'ossed,  and  he  took  breath  and  laughed  freely.  The 
Emperor  returned  the  impi'omptu  salute  with  great  respect,  and, 
for  the  occasion,  with  becoming  gravity. 

The  Empress  and  her  suite  were  not  less  pleased  with  the  com- 
modious saloons  and  richly-decorated  cabins  of  the  steamer  than 
her  Imperial  spouse  had  been  with  all  its  mechanical  appoint- 
ments. 

The  "City  of  Pittsburg"  was  at  the  command  of  the  Emperor; 
but  on  we  steamed,  notwithstanding  a  poi-tion  of  the  court  became 
exceedingly  sea-sick.  His  Majesty  was  too  well  pleased  with  his 
new  floating-dominion  to  resign  it  so  soon;  and  thus  we  passed  ten 
miles  bej'ond  the  Sugar-Loaf  before  the  order  was  given  to  return, 
The  panoi'ama  of  coast-mountains  never  appeared  to  me  more 
magnificent  than  on  that  bright  September  day. 


How  THE  "Sovereigns"  receive  an  Emperor.        237 

The  captain  bad  prepared  a  sumptuous  collation,  but  tbero  was 
an  obstacle  which  seemed  more  difficult  to  surmount  than  tho 
forward-deck.  The  Imperial  pair  were  not  even  in  the  habit  of 
dining  with  their  suite,  and,  except  on  rare  state-occasions,  eminent 
Ministcrs-Plenij)otentiary  had  never  been  invited  to  partake  of  a 
repast  in  the  same  room  with  their  Majesties.  There  was  no  pre- 
cedent of  a  collation  having  been  given  on  the  deck  of  an  American 
vessel,  and,  above  all,  on  board  of  a  mere  commercial  ship.  No 
one  liked  the  idea  of  consulting  the  Emperor  about  an  affair  ap- 
parently so  trifling  as  to  the  manner  in  which  he  desired  to  eat, 
and  therefore  Captain  Foster,  who  is  as  modest  as  he  is  hospitable, 
took  the  whole  matter  into  his  own  hands  and  made  a  precedent. 
The  "City  of  Pittsburg"  was  constructively  a  part  of  the  United 
States,  and  the  captain  was  determined  to  do  the  honors  of  his 
country  as  he  would  have  done  them  on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson. 
Their  Majesties  Avere  accommodated  Avith  an  entire  table  to  them- 
selves, which,  like  six  others  in  the  ship,  was  separated  from  its 
fellows  by  the  space  of  two  feet.  The  American  party  occupied 
the  adjoining  table;  the  ministers  and  noblemen  were  seated  at 
another  in  a  different  part  of  the  saloon,  while  the  chamberlains 
stood  near  the  Emperor.  Perhaps  D.  Pedro  had  no  objection  to 
the  proximity  of  the  Americans,  considering  that  they  were  all 
"  sovereigns."  Captain  Foster,  who  spoke  French,  proposed,  with 
a  dignity  becoming  the  occasion,  the  health  of  their  Majesties; 
and  all  passed  off  as  easily  and  as  happily  as  if  there  had  been 
a  thousand  and  one  ceremonies  and  precedents  to  have  been 
suppoi'ted  and  followed. 

We  entex'ed  the  harbor  amid  the  booming  of  cannon,  and  at 
sunset  the  Imperial  party  again  embarked  in  the  state-barges, 
having  spent  what  they  afterward  declared  to  have  been  one 
of  the  most  agreeable  days  of  their  lives.  Again  and  again  have 
I  heard  their  Majesties  express  their  remembrance  of  that  excur- 
sion; and  none  of  Captain  Foster's  personal  friends  felt  a  deeper 
sympathy  for  him  than  did  D.  Pedro  II.  and  Donna  Theresa  when 
they  learned,  through  the  public  journals,  the  sad  fate  of  the  "City 
of  Pittsburg"  in  the  harbor  of  Valparaiso. 

In  1854,  I  returned  for  a  few  montlis  to  the  United  States. 
Having  often  had  occasion  while  in  Brazil  to  remark  the  isrno- 


238  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

ranee  whieh  prevailed  in  regard  to  mj"  own  country,  and  the  reci- 
procal ignorance  of  the  people  of  the  United  States  in  regard  to 
Brazil,  I  desired  to  do  all  that  was  in  the  power  of  a  single  indi- 
vidual to  remove  erroneous  impressions  and  to  bring  about  a 
better  understanding  between  the  two  countries.  There  were 
h'gher  objects  in  view  than  the  mere  diffusion  of  knowledge  and 
the  promotion  of  commerce;  and,  now  that  two  years  have  elapsed 
since  this  little  effort  was  undertaken,  I  have  the  satisfaction  of 
knowing  that  new  avenues  of  reciprocity  have  been  opened,  that 
school-books  have  been  prepared  for  Brazil  in  the  American  style, 
and  that  thousands  of  dollars'  worth  of  some  of  the  articles  dis- 
played have  been  ordered  since  1855. 

I  shall  here  introduce,  even  at  the  hazard  of  some  repetition,  the 
greater  part  of  a  letter  addressed  to  the  "New  York  Journal  of  Com- 
merce" and  the  "Philadelphia  Ledger,"  which  gives  an  account  of 
the  effort  to  which  I  have  referred.  It  is  on  my  part  due  to  others  to 
premise  that  many  did  not  fully  understand  the  proposed  enter- 
prise, and,  after  hearing  of  its  success,  regretted  that  they  had  not 
had  an  opportunity  of  being  represented  in  the  "Exposition"  at 
the  capital  of  Brazil. 

"Rio  de  Janeiro,  May  23,  1855. 

"  Messrs.  Editors  : — [After  a  few  preliminary  remarks,  I  wrote 
as  follows:]  The  motives  which  prompted  me  to  undertake  this 
affair  were  simply  the  good  of  the  United  States  and  Brazil.  When 
laboring  for  several  years  as  a  missionary-chaplain  at  Eio  de 
Janeiro,  I  found  great  ignorance  in  regard  to  our  country,  its  pro- 
gress, and  its  producing-resoui'ces.  I  also  discovered  a  reciprocal 
ignorance  in  the  United  States  concerning  Brazil.  In  the  latter 
country  we  were  known  as  a  bold,  hardy  race,  which  consumed 
two-thirds  of  the  Brazilian  coffee-crop,  for  which  we  sent,  in  return, 
flour  and  a  few  articles  of  no  great  note.  In  the  United  States, 
Brazil  was  often  classed  among  the  Spanish  countries  of  America: 
few  people  were  aware  that  the  Portuguese  language  was  spoken, 
and  that  here  was  the  only  monarchy  in  America,  and  the  only 
other  constitutional  Government  on  the  Western  continent  which 
has  marched  forward  in  tranquillity  and  material  prosperity.  I  here 
found  English,  German,  and  French  goods  and  publications,  with 
Bome  few  exceptions,  the  mode, — and  this,  too,  when  many  of  the 


Exposition  of  American  Manufactures  at  Rio.     239 

same  articles  were  to  be  bought  cheaper  in  the  United  States;  and 
I  also  ascertained  that  our  ships  often  came  in  ballast  for  coffee, 
paj'ing  for  it  cash  at  most  exorbitant  rates  of  exchange,  when 
European  vessels  brought  cargoes  at  a  profit  in  payment  for  the 
chief  staples  of  Brazil. 

"In  Brazil  I  found  a  very  great  want  of  school-books.  In  Chili 
and  New  Grenada  I  saw  Spanish  books  published  by  Messrs.  Ap- 
pleton,  and  I  desired  to  see  the  same  for  the  youth  of  Brazil,  where 
very  great  attention  is  awakening  to  the  subject  of  education.  I 
observed  here  scientific  societies  which  rank,  in  dignity  and  devo- 
tion to  belles-lettres,  with  the  Xew  York  Historical  Societj^,  and  like 
associations  of  our  own  land. 

"It  was  my  ardent  wish,  first,  to  see  this  seven  millions  of 
tolerant  people  possessing  sound  morality  and  true  I'eligion.  It 
was  my  next  desire  to  see  men  of  science  and  learning  in  Brazil 
linked  with  the  kindred  spirits  of  our  vigorous  land;  to  behold 
good  school-books  in  the  hands  of  Brazilian  children;  and  to  see 
our  manufactures  taking  their  stand  in  this  country,  which  is  so 
great  a  consumer. 

"In  1854,  on  account  of  the  ill  health  of  a  member  of  m}^  family, 
I  was  compelled  to  leave  suddenly  my  field  of  labor  for  the  United 
States.  There,  after  several  months,  it  became  evident  that  I 
should  have  to  abandon  the  land  of  my  adoption.  It  was,  how- 
ever, necessar}'-  for  me  to  return  to  Brazil,  in  order  to  settle  up  my 
affairs.  It  was  then  that,  through  the  public  journals,  I  off'ered 
my  services  to  convey  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  free  of  charge  to  the 
donors,  any  articles  that  might  be  sent  to  my  address.  These 
objects  I  solicited  for  the  Emperor,  for  scientific  and  literary  asso- 
ciations, and  for  exposition  to  the  public.  I  was  a  clergyman,  and 
I  thought  that  no  one  could  accuse  me  of  speculation.  For  two 
months  was  I,  more  or  less,  engaged  at  my  own  expense  in  making 
solicitations  in  person,  as  well  as  by  the  press  and  by  letters.  I 
regret  to  say  that  many  persons  who  should  have  been  interested 
in  such  an  enterprise  did  not  choose  to  respond  to  the  solicitations 
of  an  unknown  name,  and  thus  the  Exposition  was  not  so  rich 
in  some  departments  as  it  otherwise  would  have  been,  although 
I  with  pleasure  record  that  there  were  some  influential  men  who 
lent  the  weight  of  their  names  to  the  project. 


240  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

"At  length  a  number  of  artists,  publishers,  merchants,  and  manu- 
facturers were  induced  to  send  specimens  of  books,  engi*avings, 
sculpture,  and  manufactures  j  but  these  were  few  in  comparison  to 
those  who  might  have  contributed  to  their  own  future  benefit. 

"  Messrs.  Corner  &  Sons,  of  Baltimore,  generously  placed  their 
bark  at  my  disposal  for  a  free  passage.  In  the  month  of  March, 
the  good  bark  '  Huntingdon'  left  Baltimore  with  my  packages  on 
board.  Eobert  C.  Wright,  Esq.,  of  that  city,  and  his  first  clerk, 
Mr.  W.  E.  Jackson,  did  every  thing  in  their  power  to  facilitate  the 
enterprise,  and  to  them  more  than  to  others  I  am  indebted  for 
the  successful  consummation  of  my  desired  object.  In  Ajiril  we 
arrived  at  Eio  de  Janeiro,  and  for  three  weeks  I  had  such  vexation 
and  delay  that  I  almost  despaired  of  a  prosperous  termination. 
Through  the  kindness  of  the  Baron  of  Penedo,  then  Brazilian 
Minister  at  Washington,  and  by  a  letter  from  Hon.  William 
Trousdale,  the  American  Minister,  my  boxes  and  packages  were 
admitted  free  of  duty.  The  custom-house  regulations  of  this 
country  are  exceedingly  strict,  and  I  had  to  give  an  account  of 
every  thing  that  I  had  brought  for  the  statistical  purpose  of  the 
Minister  of  Finance.  As  I  had  no  list  of  the  articles  nor  of  their 
values,  as  many  of  the  boxes  contained  one  hundred  diff'erent 
tightly-made  packages,  and  as  there  were  many  objects  of  a  fragile 
nature,  and  as  every  thing  had  to  be  oj^ened  by  officers  who  might 
not  be  the  most  careful,  I  suffered  mentally  and  physically  both 
before  and  after  the  examination.  It  was  no  easy  matter  to  undo 
so  many  parcels,  and  it  was  hard  to  restore  again  some  fine  speci- 
mens after  a  clumsy  underling  had  put  a  nail  through  them. 

''The  chief  collector  of  the  custom-house  believed,  from  the  day 
that  I  arrived  until  the  day  of  the  examination,  that  I  was  medi- 
tating some  plot  against  the  finances  of  the  country,  and  openly 
told  some  of  the  merchants  that  I  intended  to  sell  these  things. 
[That  gentleman  afterward  became  a  very  warm  and  an  attentive 
friend.]  But  when  I  had  patiently  assisted  in  opening  for  examina- 
tion box  after  box,  and  we  came  to  one  containing  the  splendid 
photographs  of  Fredericks  &  Guruey,  the  chief  examiner  said  to 
one  of  the  others,  'Go  call  the  second  collector.'  He  came,  and, 
after  expressing  his  astonishment  at  such  perfection  in  photography, 
he  sent  for  the  collector-in-chief.     This  latter  gentleman  left  his 


Obstacles  Overcome. 


241 


platform  in  the  large  public  hall  of  the  custom-house,  and  found  his 
way  to  the  store-room.  His  admiration  knew  no  bounds  when  he 
saw  the  large  life-sized  photograph  of  Webster, — the  last  likeness 
of  the  great  statesman.  From  this  time  onwax'd,  his  suspicions  in 
regard  to  my  project  ceased.  He  looked  with  great  pleasui*e  into 
Colton's  fine  maps,  and  delighted  in  a  critical  examination  of  the 
exquisite  bank-note  engraving  of  Danforth  &  "Wright  and  that  of 
Toppan  &  Car])enter,  who  had  contributed  some  most  beautiful 
specimens  of  tliis  miugliDg  of  the  beautiful  with  the  useful  in  art. 
The  examination  and  noting  down  the  contents  of  the  boxes  went 
on  very  swiftly  from  the  time  of  this  visit  of  the  chief  collector. 


^A^A^J^  n,mv}tLj 


THE      NATIONAL      MUSEUM. 


"  One  week  after  the  custom-house  was  cleared,  I  received  an  order 
from  the  Minister  of  the  Empire,  granting  me  a  large  hall  in  the 
National  Museum,  for  the  purposes  of  an  Exposition.  The  same 
day  I  went  to  the  palace,  and  communicated  to  the  Emj)eror  that 
I  should  be  ready  to  receive  him  at  eleven  a.m.  next  day,  (May  16,) 

16 


242  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

at  the  Museum.  His  Majesty  received  me,  it  seemed  to  me,  with 
more  amiability  than  his  usual  serious  countenance  indicated,  and 
I  soon  discovered,  from  a  remark  which  he  made,  that  I  was  in- 
debted to  His  Excellency  Senhor  Carvalho  de  Moreiro  for  a  full 
explanation  to  His  Majesty  of  my  project,  which  was  on  my  part 
far  more  philanthropic  than  commercial. 

"That  night  sleep  did  not  visit  me,  so  busily  was  I  engaged  in 
■'.he  arrangement  of  the  whole  affair.  The  next  day,  at  five  minutes 
before  eleven,  (His  Majesty  is  noted  for  his  punctuality,)  I  heard 
the  well-known  bugle-blast  of  the  Imperial  horse-guards;  and,  before 
my  assistants  had  time  to  withdraw,  the  coaches  containing  Dom 
Pedro  II.  and  the  chamberlains  drew  up  at  the  Museum. 

"By  the  aid  of  some  kind  friends,  I  had  so  disposed  the  six. hun- 
dred different  objects  that  the  exhibition  was  not  Avanting  in  an 
imposing  appearance.  The  American  and  Brazilian  flags  fell  in 
graceful  folds  over  the  portrait  of  Washington  and  the  likenesses 
of  the  Emperor  and  his  father.  The  maps  of  Colton  and  others, 
and  engravings  from  New  York,  Philadelphia,  and  Boston,  covered 
the  walls.  Books  and  small  manufactured  articles  occupied  tables; 
beautifully-designed  wall-papers  and  sample-books  of  mousseline  de 
laines  were  suspended;  and  large  agricultural  implements  were 
arranged  on  platforms  provided  for  the  occasion. 

"His  Majesty  commenced  at  one  end,  and  with  great  earnestness 
and  interest  examined  every  thing  in  detail.  He  made  many  in- 
quiries, and  manifested  a  most  intimate  knowledge  with  the  pro- 
gress of  our  country.  He  was  filled  with  admiration  at  the 
specimens  of  books,  steel  engravings,  chromo-lithography,  (of 
Philadelphia,)  and  agricultural  implements.  Every  now  and  then 
you  might  have  hoard  him  calling  to  some  of  his  noblemen  or 
chamberlains  to  come  and  admire  with  him  this  or  that  work  of 
the  useful  or  beautiful  arts.  He  was  not,  however,  indiscriminate 
in  his  praise,  but  was  perfectly  frank  in  his  criticism. 

"Being  himself  a  thorough  student  of  phj^sical  science,  and  a 
good  engineer,  he  examined  with  minuteness  the  splendid  edition 
of  the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  from  the  bureau  of  the  United 
States  Coast  Surve}^,  Washington;  and  he  appreciated  at  their 
Just  value  the  various  scientific  works  that  occu2:)ied  a  conspi- 
cuous table. 


Admiration  for  Mr.  Longfellow.  24S 

'Tor  half  an  hour  he  pored  over  Youman's  Atlas  of  Chemistry, 
and  praised  its  thorough  excellence  and  simplicity.  While  exa- 
mining a  work  on  phj^siology,  I  heard  him  i-emarking  upon  the 
superiority  of  the  Craniology  by  the  late  Dr.  Morton;  and  he  in- 
formed me  that  he  possessed  the  writings  of  that  eminent  student 
of  the  human  frame.  He  was  also  well  read  in  the  immense  tomes 
of  the  pains-taking,  erudite,  and  conscientious  Schoolcraft,  whose 
works  on  the  aborigines  of  North  America  were  sent  out  by  the 
Chief  of  the  Bureau  of  Indian  Affairs  at  Washington. 

"His  Majesty  was  deeply  interested  in  the  various  maps,  geo- 
graphies, and  school-books  sent  out  by  Colton,  Appletons,  Wood- 
ford &  Brace,  T.  Cowperthwait,  and  Barnes.  The  finely-illustrated 
publications  of  the  various  benevolent  societies  of  our  land  were 
sent  out  for  the  Imperial  family,  and  attracted  deserved  attention. 
The  Emperor  was  much  pleased  with  the  only  specimens  of  wood- 
engraving,  which  were  forwarded  by  Mr.  Yan  Ingen,  of  the  firm  of 
Yan  Incren  &  Snvdcr,  whose  skill  has  illustrated  this  work. 

"The  earnest  examination  which  he  gave  the  machinery,  manu- 
factures, and  agricultural  implements  justified  the  reputation 
which  Dom  Pedro  II.  enjoys  in  this  respect.  Howell's  wall-papers, 
after  drawings  by  the  students  of  the  Philadelphia  Academy  of 
Design,  and  the  beautiful  silk  manufactures  of  Horstman,  and 
Evans, — which  ought  to  be  classed  among  works  of  art, — called 
forth  much  praise. 

"He  next  approached  the  table  where  were  the  books  presented 
by  the  Appletons  and  Parry  &  McMillan.  Taking  up  the  'Eepub- 
lican  Court,'  he  said,  'I  am  astonished  at  such  perfection  in  bind- 
ing.' I  replied,  'And  none  of  those  volumes  were  bound  expressly 
for  3'our  Majesty."  The  binding  of  Appletons'  books  was  suj^erb. 
He  opened  the  'Homes  of  the  American  Authors,'  and  surprised 
me  by  his  knowledge  of  our  literature.  He  made  remarks  on  Ir- 
ving, Cooper,  and  Prescott, — showing  an  intimate  acquaintance 
with  each.  His  eye  falling  on  the  name  of  Longfellow,  he  asked 
me,  with  great  haste  and  eagerness,  'Avez-vouz  les  poemes  de 
Monsieur  Longfellow  ?  It  was  the  first  time  that  I  ever  saw  Dom 
Pedro  II.  manifest  an  enthusiasm  which,  in  its  earnestness  and 
simplicity,  resembled  the  warmth  of  childhood  when  about  to 
possess  itself  of  some  long-cherished  object.     I  replied,  '  I  believe 


244  Brazil  a'sd  the  Brazilians. 

not,  3'our  Majesty.'  'Oh/  said  he,  'I  am  exceedingly  sorry,  foi 
1  have  sought  in  every  bookstore  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  for  Longfellow, 
and  I  cannot  find  him.  I  have  a  number  of  beautiful  morceaux, 
but  I  wish  the  whole  work;  I  admire  him  so  very  much.'  That 
evening  I  found,  among  the  books  sent  by  Parry  &  McMillan,  the 
'  Poets  and  Poetry  of  America.'  In  this  volume  is  a  biographical 
sketch  of  Longfellow,  as  well  as  some  of  the  choicest  selections 
from  his  pen.  This,  with  T.  Buchanan  Bead's  'Kew  Pastoral,' 
were  afterward  commented  on  and  received  with  the  most  visible 
pleasure  by  His  Majesty. 

"1  was  absent  from  the  part  of  the  hall  where  Dom  Pedro  II. 
waslookingattheengravingsof  the  American  Bank-NoteCompany,) 
and  when  I  returned  I  found  him  engaged  in  a  discussion  with  his 
first  chamberlain  as  to  John  Quincy  Adams, — the  chamberlain  (as 
the  majority  of  even  well-educated  foreigners)  supposing  that  John 
Quincy  Adams  was  the  elder  Adams.  The  Emperor  insisted  that 
John  Quincy  Adams  was  not  the  early  advocate  of  libei'ty  and 
the  'comrade,'  as  he  termed  him,  of  Washington, — but  that  he 
was  the  son  of  John  Adams,  and,  like  his  father,  was  a  President 
of  the  United  States.  And  soon  after  he  gave  a  very  thorough 
re-examination  of  the  'Eepublican  Court,'  and  pointed  out  to  the 
chamberlain  the  distinguished  mother  of  John  Quincy  Adams. 
He  was  very  anxious  to  see  a  portrait  of  Jeiferson.  One  of  my 
assistants  found  a  very  neatly-engraved  porti'ait  of  the  sage  of 
Monticello  from  the  burin  of  Toppan  &  Carpenter.  When  he 
received  it,  you  should  have  heard  him,  without  pedantr}^  or 
atfectation,  expatiate  with  great  minuteness,  correctness,  and 
judgment  on  the  character  of  Jefferson  as  compared  with  that 
of  Washington. 

"Approaching  some  very  fine  lithographs  published  by  Williams 
&  Stephens,  of  New  York,  I  introduced  His  Majesty  to  'Young 
America,'  that  handsome  but  independent-looking  lad,  and  to 
'Uncle  Sam's  Youngest  Son,  Citizen  Know-Nothing.'  I  thought 
that  I  had  now  a  subject  of  which  His  Majesty  really  knew  no- 
thing; but  I  found  that  I  was  mistaken,  as  he  recounted  to  some  one 
the  pranks  that  this  young  fellow  had  been  playing,  and  added  that 
he  was  a  citizen  of  some  power  and  knowledge,  judging  from  the 
recent  (1855)  elections  in  the  United  States. 


Success  of  the  Exposition.  245 

"Thus  the  whole  day  was  occupied  in  the  examination  and  ex- 
planation of  the  American  collection. 

"A  few  days  after  the  Exposition  was  closed,  I  had  the  many 
things  destined  for  the  Imperial  family  taken  to  the  large  palaceie 
of  the  Marquis  d'Abrantes,  situated  in  one  of  the  most  charming 
environs  of  Rio, — viz.:  the  shore  of  the  Neapolitan-shaped  Baj^  of 
Botafogo.  His  Majesty  was  spending  some  weeks  here  for  the 
benefit  of  sea-bathing.  I  passed  the  guards  at  the  gate,  and  as  I 
ascended  the  steps  the  Emperor  saw  me,  and,  meeting  me  at  the 
door,  thanked  me  heartily  for  what  I  had  done.  I  desired  him  to 
allow  me  to  remain  a  few  moments  until  the  boxes  arrived,  as  I 
must  give  him  some  explanations  as  to  the  secret  lock  of  the  most 
excellent  trunk  sent  him  by  Peddle  &  Morrison,  of  Newark,  N.  J. 
With  his  permission  I  went  into  the  beautiful  garden,  where  were 
the  richest  and  rarest  of  flowers  in  a  land  of  perpetual  bloom. 
The  air  was  truly  loaded  with  sweet  fragrance.  There  were  foun- 
tains and  statuary,  many  brilliant-plumaged  birds,  and,  indeed, 
every  thing  in  nature  and  in  art  to  please  and  to  gratify  those  alive 
to  the  beautiful.  When  looking  upon  a  scene  so  enchanting  I 
could  only  desire  that  this  land,  for  which  God  has  done  so  much 
in  a  natural  point  of  view,  might  possess  the  solid  mental  and 
moral  advantages  which  belong  to  our  more  rugged  North  through 
the  instrumentality  of  education  and  religion. 

"The  blacks  soon  arrived  with  the  heavy  boxes  and  the  nicely- 
finished  plough,  (sent  by  B.  Myers,  of  Newark,  N.J.,)  all  of  which, 
by  the  order  of  the  chnmberlain,  wei-e  placed  in  the  ante-room, 
where  His  Majesty  again  examined  and  admired  them.  The  first 
thing  that  he  inquired  for  was  'My  Longfellow,'  (in  the  'Poets 
and  Poetr}^  of  America;')  the  next,  'Youman's  Atlas  of  Chemis- 
try :'  he  then  asked  for  the  beautiful  specimens  of  chromo-litho- 
graphy,  (by  Sinclair,  and  Duval,  of  Philadelphia,)  and  finally  in- 
quired after  the  steam  fire-engine  which  made  its  travels  from 
Cincinnati  to  Boston  last  spring.  I  furnished  him  with  a  plan 
of  it  which  had  been  given  me  by  a  clerk  in  the  Baltimore  Sun 
office.  He  instantly  took  it,  and  began  to  explain  its  operations  to 
a  French  savant  who  was  visiting  the  palace.  For  one  hour  he 
was  engaged  in  a  review  of  the  products  of  our  country.  He 
called  the  Empress,  who  also  expressed  her  gratification  in  the 


246  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

highest  terms  as  I  displayed  the  beautiful  books  sent  for  herself 
and  the  princesses.  Her  Majesty  was  not  only  pleased  with  what 
had  drawn  forth  the  praises  of  her  Imperial  spouse,  but  she,  as 
well  as  her  maids  of  honor,  displayed  the  woman  in  the  delight 
manifested  at  the  fancy  soaps  and  other  articles  of  toilette  sent 
out  by  II.  P.  &  W.  C.  Taylor,  of  Philadelphia,  and  Colgate  &  Co., 
of  New  York.  Many  thanks  were  given  to  me  for  those  who  had 
been  so  kind  in  remembering  the  Imperial  family  of  Brazil,  and 
I  left  the  palace,  feeling  that,  so  far  as  the  head  of  the  Brazilian 
Government  was  concerned,  all  was  most  successful. 

"  With  His  Majesty's  subjects  the  enterprise  was  not  less  fortu- 
nate. On  the  17th  and  18th  the  Museum  was  visited  by  some 
thousands,  and  astonishment  and  admiration  were  constantly  upon 
the  lips  of  the  Brazilians.  Each  evening  I  was  completely  worn 
out  by  answering  the  many  questions  that  were  propounded  from 
every  side.  I  have  no  doubt  that  a  proper  exhibition  of  American 
arts  and  manufactures,  arranged  by  business-men  and  those  who 
have  means  to  carry  it  out,  would  redound  a  thousandfold  to  the 
benefit  of  American  commerce.  For,  during  my  walks  among 
those  who  Avere  examining  the  various  articles,  I  heard  remarks 
which  convinced  me  that  it  only  required  to  have  our  country's 
productions  known  to  cause  a  large  importation.  During  and 
since  the  Exposition,  I  have  had  many  orders  for  books,  en- 
gravings, wall-papers,  and  Manchester  prints;  and  this  morning 
I  had  an  ajiplication  for  a  sugar-crushing  machine,  and  a  large 
lithographic  printing -press.  My  reply  in  all  cases  has  been,  'I  am 
not  a  commercial  man;  I  am  not  here  for  that  purpose;  I  have 
no  pecuniary  interest  whatever  in  this  matter:  but  there  are 
houses  here  which  have  correspondents  in  America.' 

"Upon  the  evening  of  the  16th,  the  Statistical  Society  of  Brazil 
held  its  meeting  in  the  same  hall  where  were  the  products  of  the 
United  States.  The  Viscount  Itaborahy  presided,  and  invited  mo 
to  address  the  Society.  I  was  very  glad  to  have  the  opportunity 
of  explaining  m}'  plans  to  such  a  body  of  gentlemen,  and  found 
them  most  sympathetic:  they  freely  expressed  their  desire  to  see 
the  United  States  and  Brazil  more  closely  united.  These  remarks 
were  reported  for  the  press,  and  my  motives  were  thus  more 
widely  made  known  to  the  people. 


A  Pleasing  Incident.  247 

"  The  contributions  from  Washington,  from  the  Bureau  of  the 
Coast  Survey,  and  from  the  Patent-Office,  and  the  splendid  work 
on  the  North  American  Indians,  to  which  Schoolcraft  has  devoted 
his  life,  were  looked  upon  by  the  Historical  and  other  Societies  as 
a  very  great  acquisition  to  their  libraries.  In  this  connection  I 
must  not  ojnit  to  mention  some  important  medical  works  sent  out 
by  Lippin'.ott,  Grambo  &  Co.,  which  were  presented  to  the  Imperial 
Academy  of  Medicine.  From  these  associations  I  received  letters 
of  thanks,  showing  that  the  contributions  of  the  various  donors 
are  justly  appreciated.  The  Brazilian  Historical  and  Geographical 
Society  published  in  the  daily  press  the  list  of  historical  and  other 
works  and  library-catalogues  that  had  been  thus  added  to  their 
own  increasing  literary  stores. 

"I  have  already  occupied  too  much  of  your  space,  and  I  must 
still  beg  leave  to  add  a  few  remarks. 

"I  do  not  claim  the  'Exposition'  to  have  been  a  perfect  collection 
of  what  the  United  States  can  produce.  It  was  far  from  it ;  but, 
from  the  interest  it  has  created  in  this  city  of  three  hundred 
thousand  inhabitants,  from  the  independent  approbatory  remarks 
of  the  daily  press,  and  from  the  desires  which  come  from  all  quai'- 
ters  that  the  exhibition  should  continue,  I  think  that  a  fiivorable 
impression  has  been  made,  and  I  also  believe  that,  from  this  little 
affair,  we  may  legitimately  argue  that  there  is  a  most  favorable 
opening  here  for  the  various  manufiictures,  &c.  of  our  country.  It 
would  require  patience  and  capital,  and  perhai)s  the  hazarding  of 
something  at  first;  but  I  believe  that  the  end  would  more  than 
recompense  the  adventurers.  One  or  two  Americans,  a  few  years 
ago,  commenced  the  importation  of  American  agricultural  imple- 
ments, &c.,  and  now  there  is  quite  a  commerce  in  this  line.  If  im- 
portation should  be  extended,  and  this  people  could  know  what  we 
produce,  our  commerce  would  be  most  rapidly  increased.  Specu- 
lators are  not  wanted,  but  moral,  sound,  enterprising  business-men, 
who  will  furnish  the  best  articles  at  the  lowest  price. 

"In  conclusion,  without  wishing  to  excite  expectations  which 
will  not  be  realized,  or  without  desiring  to  overestimate  any  thing 
which  has  been  done  in  this  Exposition,  I  can  only  say  that,  how- 
ever far  short  I  may  have  come  in  my  efforts,  ray  intentions  have 
been  good,  and,  when  I  shall  leave  Brazil  to  return  to  the  work  of 


248  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

my  Master  in  my  own  land,  I  shall  have  at  least  the  consolation  of 
having  endeavored  to  brifig  about  a  closer  relation  between  the 
strongest  Government  of  South  America  and  the  great  Eepublic 
of  the  North. 

"I  remain,  gentlemen,  very  respectfully, 

"  Your  obedient  servant, 

"  J.  C.  Fletcher." 

A  pleasing  incident  connected  Avith  this  affair  grew  out  of  the 
late  arrival  at  Eio  of  one  of  the  presents  destined  for  the  Emperor. 
After  the  "Exposition,"  I  departed  from  the  city  and  became  en- 
gaged in  my  legitimate  labors  in  another  part  of  the  Empire.  In 
the  month  of  July  I  returned  from  the  Southern  provinces,  and 
found  that  the  Messrs.  Merriam,  of  Springfield,  Massachusetts,  had 
sent  out  a  superb  edition  of  Webster's  unabridged  quarto  Dictionary. 
I  had  also  a  few  more  books  which  were  to  be  j)laced  in  the  Em- 
peror's own  library.  An  account  of  the  presentation  of  these 
volumes  was  given  in  a  private  letter  to  Mr.  J.  P.  Blanchard,  of 
Boston,  fi'om  which  I  extract  the  following  : — 

"The  gift  of  Messrs.  Merriam  arrived  during  my  absence  in  the 
Southern  provinces;  but  so  soon  as  I  returned  I  procured  it  from  the 
custom-house,  and  in  due  time  conveyed  it  to  the  palace.  Of  course 
it  was  too  late  for  the  Exj^osition  in  the  National  Museum ;  but, 
as  your  State  had  been  very  poorly  represented  in  May,  I  was  glad 
to  have  this  specimen  of  Massachusetts  i^ublication,  and  this  monu- 
ment of  the  patient  and  faithful  labors  of  a  man  who  has  done 
so  much  to  define  and  classify  our  mother-tongue. 

"It  was  within  two  days  of  my  departure  for  Bahia  and  Per- 
nambuco  that  I  stole  a  few  hours  to  go  out  to  the  Imperial  Quinta 
of  Boa  Vista, — the  Palace  of  S.  Christovao.  It  is  usual  to  go  thither 
in  a  coach  drawn  by  at  least  two  horses;  but,  finding  a  nice  new 
tilbury  and  a  bright  mulatto  driver,  I  entered  his  vehicle,  and,  with 
'Webster's  Dictionary,'  Hawthorne's  'Mosses  from  an  Old  Manse,' 
and  Longfellow's  'IIyj)erion,'  I  was  soon  whirling,  through  the 
garden-lined  streets  of  Engenho  Velho,  to  the  palace.  The  Palace 
of  S.  Christovao  is  situated  in  one  of  the  most  picturesque  environs 
of  Eio  de  Janeiro.  It  stands  in  bold  relief  against  the  lofty  green 
mountains  of  Tijuca,  and  is  surrounded  by  the  beautifully-foliaged 


"Webster,  Hawthorne,  and  Longfellow.  249 

trees  jf  the  tropics.  It  has  every  adjunct  that  can  make  it  a 
delightful  residence.  As  we  rolled  through  the  long  avenue  of 
mango-trees,  I  saw  the  coach  of  one  of  the  Ministers  bowling  along 
with  the  servants  in  livery.  My  establishment  looked  small  in 
comparison  with  this  brilliant  equipage;  but  I  felt  that  the  three 
books  which  I  bore  with  me  would  delight  His  Majesty  more  than 
all  the  carriages  of  the  court. 

''I  descended  after  the  Minister  had  entered,  and  was  conducted 
to  an  ante-room  by  a  chamberlain,  to  whom  I  made  known  the 
purport  of  my  visit  and  the  nature  of  my  volumes.  Not  wishing 
to  trust  m}"  precious  load  to  any  servant,  I  carried  the  three  tomes 
(no  light  burden)  before  me.  After  passing  many  corridors,  I  came 
to  a  large,  wide  gallery,  which  overlooked  a  courtyard  where 
bright  fountains  were  playing  and  the  choicest  and  most  fragrant 
flowers  were  blooming. 

"I  had  supposed  that  it  was  a  day  for  private  audience;  but  the 
long  gallery  was  filled  with  gentlemen  in  waiting, — noblemen, 
Judges  of  the  Supreme  Court,  Ministei's,  Charges,  and  officers  en 
grande  tenue,  and  some  of  them  covered  with  decorations.  I  then 
learned  from  Senhor  Leal,  and  from  the  Neapolitan  Charge  d' Afi^aires, 
that  the  13th  of  July  was  the  anniversary  of  the  Imperial  Princess 
Leopoldina,  and  these  gentlemen  had  come  to  felicitate  their  Ma- 
jesties on  the  return  of  this  anniversary.  I  took  my  stand  at  the 
extreme  end  of  the  waiting  train,  thinking  that  I  had  better  have 
chosen  a  day  when  His  Majesty  was  less  occupied.  Presently  I)om 
Pedro  II.  appeared,  his  fine  manly  form  towering  above  everj 
other.  He  was  dressed  in  black;  and,  with  the  exception  of  a 
star  which  sparkled  upon  his  left  breast,  his  costume  was  simple, 
and  its  good  taste  was  most  apparent  when  contrasted  with  the 
brilliant  uniforms  of  the  court. 

''I  conjectured  that  His  Majesty  would  first  receive  the  con- 
gratulations of  the  glittering  throng  that  stood  between  him  and 
the  plainly-dressed  clergyman.  Judge,  then,  of  my  surprise  when, 
merely  bowing,  he  passed  by  the  many  titled  gentlemen  and  repre- 
sentatives of  foreign  courts,  and  came  directly  to  the  'Webster,' 
*  Hawthorne,'  and  'Longfellow.'  "With  a  pleasant  smile,  he  addressed 
me,  and  led  me  to  an  open  arch  that  overlooked  the  flowers  and  the 
limpid  fountain.     There  he  examined  the  books  and  bestowed  high 


250  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

eulogium  upon  the  Dictionary, — not  only  for  the  beautiful  style  in 
which  it  had  been  prej)ared  by  the  publishers,  but  for  the  almost 
encyclopedic  character  of  the  work.  He  sj^oke  of  Mr.  Ilawthorne 
as  an  author  of  whom  he  had  heard,  and  was  glad  to  possess  the 
'Mosses  from  an  Old  Manse.'  I  called  his  attention  particularly 
to  the  'Celestial  Eailroad,'  which  caused  an  allusion  to  Bunyan's 
'guide  and  road-book  to  the  Celestial  City.'  Since  the  month 
of  May  he  had  jjrocured  all  the  poetical  works  of  JVIi*.  LongfelloW; 
but  had  not  yet  added  to  his  library  any  of  his  (]\Ii'.  Longfellow's) 
prose  compositions.  He  therefore  considered  'Hyperion'  a  most 
interesting  acquisition. 

"His  Majesty  conversed  for  a  long  time  on  the  objects  for  which 
I  came  to  Brazil,  and  expressed  his  gratitude  for  the  souvenirs 
which  he  had  received  from  citizens  of  the  United  States.  I 
stated  to  him  that  I  would  visit  the  Northern  provinces  and  then 
return  to  my  native  land.  He  expressed  the  customar}^  wishes  of 
a  bon  voyage,  &c.,  but,  wifch  great  earnestness,  said  to  me,  in  con- 
clusion, 'Mr.  Fletcher,  when  you  return  to  your  countrj-,  have  the 
kindness  to  say  to  Mr.  Longfellow  how  much  pleasure  he  has  given 
me,  and  be  pleased  to  tell  him  combien  je  Vestime,  coinbien  je  I'aime! 
— how  much  1  esteem  him,  how  much  I  love  him.'  " 

Thus  ended,  so  far  as  my  own  personal  effort  is  concerned,  that 
which  I  undertook  to  do. 

Note  for  1S66. — In  many  ways  we  have  since  learned  of  the  good  effect  of  this 
efiFort  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  in  1855. 

The  junior  author  has  visited  Brazil  four  times  since  the  last-named  year,  and 
had  many  occasions  for  long  and  intimate  conversations  with  D.  Pedro  II.,  and 
can  testify  to  that  monarch's  continued  interest  in  works  that  treat  of  morals, 
literature,  and  art.  AVith  Mr.  Longfellow  and  the  Quaker  poet  Whittier  he  has 
really  lived  on  terms  of  intimacy,  rendering  himself  familiar  with  their  poetic 
effusions,  and  on  more  than  one  occasion  making  felicitous  translations  of  their 
poems,  of  which  he  sent  autograph  copies  to  tliose  authors.  By  his  deep  interest 
in  science,  and  by  his  correspondence  with  Professor  Agassiz,  that  eminent 
savant  came  to  Brazil,  and  is  now  engaged  in  extensive  explorations  of  the  rich 
treasures  of  nature  in  this  empire.  That  the  most  pleasant  relations,  literary  as 
well  as  political,  will  continue  to  exist  between  North  America  is  evident,  when 
the  emperor  has  been  represented  by  such  affable  gentlemen  as  the  Baron  of  Penedo, 
M.  M.  Lisboa,  late  Brazilian  Minister  to  the  United  States,  and  Sr.  Azambuja, 
the  present  representative  of  H.  I.  M.  at  Washington. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

BRAZILIAN    LITERATURE — THE    JOURNALS    OF    RIO    DE    JANEIRO ADVERTISEMENTS — 

THE    FREEDOM    OF    THE    PRESS EFFORT    TO    PUT    DOWN    BIBLE-DISTRIBUTION ITS 

FAILURE NATIONAL    LIBRARY MUSEUM IMPERIAL    ACADEMIES    OF    FIN-E   ARTS 

SOCIETIES BRAZILIAN    HISTORICAL   AND  GEOGRAPHICAL  INSTITUTE — ADMINISTRA- 
TION   OF    BRAZILIAN    LAW CURIOUS    TRIAL. 

The  Brazilians,  having  a  ruler  with  such  literary  and  scientific 
tastes,  will  assuredly  make  more  progress  in  this  direction  than 
formerly. 

On  account  of  the  restrictive  policy  of  Portugal,  no  printing- 
press  was  introduced  into  this  country  until  1808.  The  general 
taste  for  reading  is  mostly  confined  to  the  newspapers  and  the 
translations  of  French  novels.  Authors  are  by  no  means  numerous 
in  the  Empire;  but  there  have  been  within  the  last  few  years 
a  number  of  very  creditable  provincial  histories,  scientific  disquisi- 
tions, and  one  or  two  attempts  at  the  general  history  of  Brazil. 
The  bookstores  abound  with  French  works  on  science,  history, 
and  (too  often)  infidel  i^hilosophy. 

There  is,  howevei',  a  Government  bookmaking  which  is  prolific 

in  the  most  interesting  details.     I  refer  to  the  annual  Helatorios  or 

Eeports  of  the  Ministers  of  the  Empire,  Finance,  Justice,  Foreign 

Affairs,   War,   and  the  Navy.     These  are  well  written  and  well 

printed,  and  contain  the  most  valuable  matter  for  the  statesman, 

the   statistician,   or   the   general   reader.      The   Relatorio   of  the 

Minister  of  Justice  must  demand  an  amount  of  labor  unknown  to 

officials  in  the  United  States  or  in  England;  for  every  case  that  goes 

before  a  jury  in  each  of  the  twenty  provinces  must  come  under  his 

revision  and  must  be  placed  in  its  proper  table.     The  ci'ime,  age, 

sex,  and  nationality  of  the  criminal  are  given,  together  with  the 

punishment.     In  addition  to  this,  matters  of  prison-discipline  and 

the  varied  interests  of  ecclesiastical  affairs  are  not  forgotten. 

251 


252  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

The  periodical  literature  of  Eio  has,  within  a  few  years,  been 
improved  in  character  by  the  establishment  of  a  Medical  Review 
and  also  of  a  Brazilian  and  Foreign  Quarterly.  The  last-mentioned 
periodical  has  been  conducted  with  great  spirit  and  literary  enter- 
prise, and  promises  to  be  of  utility  to  the  country;  yet  even  in 
this  there  is  a  too  frequent  resort  to  translations.  If  Brazilians 
would  only  take  the  time  to  write,  and  make  the  effort  to  think 
for  themselves,  foreigners  would  soon  find  their  productions  to  be 
interesting  and  valuable,  and  would  prize  them  accordingly^. 

The  press  being  free,  I  doubt  whether  any  journals  in  the  United 
States,  England,  or  the  Continent,  contain  so  many  communica- 
tions from  subscribers  as  those  of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  As  all  of  these 
communicagoes  must  be  accompanied  with  the  cash,  journalism  in 
Brazil  is  a  lucrative  "institution."  Some  of  the  editorials  of  the 
Jornal  do  Cormnercio,  the  Correio,  and  the  Diario  will  compare  favor- 
ably with  those  of  New  York  or  London.  The  Correio  has  an  able 
corps-editorial,  and  is  an  exceedingly  readable  paper.  In  the 
Appendix  will  be  found  a  leader  from  the  Jornal  do  Commercio 
which  was  elicited  by  a  most  provoking  and  uncalled-for  note  on 
the  African  slave-trade,  which  was  sent  by  the  British  Minister  at 
Rio  de  Janeiro  to  the  Brazilian  Secretary  of  State. 

The  appearance  of  the  newspapers  of  Rio  is  like  that  of  the 
Parisian  journals,  only  the  Brazilian  dailies  are  larger,  in  clearer 
type,  and  upon  superior  paper.  The  bottom  of  each  sheet  contains 
the  light  reading,  in  what  is  called  the  folhetim ;  and  each  Sunday 
the  Correio  Mercantil  has  several  columns  of  pacotilha,  (gossip.) 
The  Jornal  do  Commercio,  the  Mercantil,  the  Diario  do  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
and  the  Diario  Official  are  better  printed  than  French  dailies. 

The  newspaper-press  in  Rio  is  quite  j^rolific.  It  issues  four 
dailies,  several  tri-weeklies,  and  a  vaiying  number  of  from  six  to 
ten.  weeklies  and  irregular  sheets.  During  the  session  of  the 
National  Assembly,  verbatim  reports  of  the  proceedings  and  de- 
bates of  that  body  are  published  at  length — like  those  of  the 
English  Parliament  and  the  American  Congress — -on  the  morning 
after  their  occurrence. 

The  Jornal  do  Commercio,  already  referred  to,  has  the  largest  circulation,  and  is 
under  the  direction  of  Sr.  Castro,  who  translated  into  Portuguese  Southey's 
"  History  of  Brazil,"  and  Mr.  Add^.     The  Correio  Mercantil  is  the  property  of 


The  Journals  of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  253 

Muniz  Barreto  &  Co.,  and  is  under  the  editor-in-chief  Sr.  Octaviano,  one  of  the 
finest  writers  in  Brazil.  Mr.  Barreto  deserves  well  of  his  country  for  the  efforts 
he  has  made  to  give  a  high  tone  to  its  press.  The  Diario  do  Rio  de  Janeiro  is 
edited  by  Saldanha  Marinha,  (an  eminent  politician  in  the  Liberal  party,)  aided 
by  an  efficient  staff.  The  Diario  Official  was  created  for  government  purposes  in 
18G2.  Its  present  editor  is  Sr.  Tito  Franco  de  Almeida,  who  formerly  edited  with 
so  much  ability  the  Jornal  do  Para.  All  of  the  leading  editors  of  the  last  three 
journals  are  members  of  the  Chamber  of  Deputies.  The  Anglo-Brazilian  Times 
is  a  semi-monthly  English  sheet,  edited  by  Mr.  Scully,  with  more  sprightliness 
than  the  Brazilian  papers,  and  is  a 'valuable  addition  to  the  journals  of  Rio. 
There  is  an  interesting  agricultural  journal  published  under  the  auspices  of  the 
Imperial  Agricultural  Society,  which  merits  a  wide  circulation.  The  first  paper 
of  this  kind,  0  Agricultor  Brazileiro,  was  started  by  Mr.  N.  Sands,  in  1854.  Only 
one  volume  was  publislied. 

The  most  enterprising  typographia  is  that  of  the  Brothers 
Liiemmert.  in  the  Eua  dos  Invalidos.  The  press  of  the  Typo- 
graphia "Universal"  turns  out  fine  specimens  of  work.  The 
matter  of  the  advertising-columns  of  the  various  newspapers  ia 
renewed  ahnost  dail}^,  and  is  perused  by  great  numbers  of  general 
readers  for  the  sake  of  its  piquancy  and  its  variety.  Several 
peculiar  customs  may  be  noticed,  growing  out  of  the  Church  and 
Brotherliood  advertisements  mentioned  in  a  previous  chapter,  and 
the  patronage  of  the  numerous  lotteries  authorized  by  Govern- 
ment. Persons  frequently  form  companies  for  the  purchase  of 
tickets,  and  those  at  a  distance  order  their  correspondents  to  pur- 
chase for  them.  In  order  to  avoid  any  subsequent  transfer  or 
dispute,  the  purchaser  announces,  through  the  newspaper,  the 
number  of  the  ticket  bought  and  for  whose  account, — as,  for 
example  : — "M.  F.  S.  purchased,  by  order  of  J.  T.  Pinto,  two  half- 
tickets,  Nos.  1513  and  4817,  of  the  lottery  in  behalf  of  the  theatre 
of  Itaborahy."  "  The  treasurer  of  the  company  entitled  '  The 
Friends  of  Good  Luck'  has  purchased,  on  the  company's  account, 
halftickets  Nos.  3885  and  5430,  of  Uie  lottery  of  the  cathedral 
of  Goyaz."  Following  this  custom,  individuals  who  wish  to  publish 
some  pert  thing  usually  announce  it  as  the  name  of  a  company 
for  the  purchase  of  lottery-tickets,  although  that  name  extends 
sometimes  through  a  dozen  lines  of  rhyme. 

The  Brazilians  have  a  most  effectual  way  of  collecting  debts,  which 
ought  to  be  made  known  for  the  benefit  of  creditors  in  other  portions 
of  the  world.    The  recipe  is  found  in  the  following  advertisement : — 


254  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

^'Senhor  Jose  Domingos  da  Costa  is  requested  to  pay,  at  No.  85 
Eua  de  S.  Jose,  the  sum  of  six  hundred  milreis ;  and  in  case  he  shall 
not  do  so  in  three  days,  his  conduct  will  be  exposed  in  this  journal, 
together  with  the  manner  in  which  this  debt  was  contracted." 
Another  will  show  that  the  clergy  are  not  always  spared  : — 
"  j\Ir.  Editor  : — Since  the  vicar  of  a  certain  parish,  on  the  8th 
instant,  having  said  mass  with  all  his  accustomed  affectation, 
turned  round  to  the  people  and  said,  with  an  air  of  mockery, 
'As  we  have  no  festival  to-day,  let  us  say  over  the  Litany,'  &c., 
I  would  respond,  that  the  reverend  vicar  knows  well  the  reason 
why  there  was  no  festival.  Let  him  be  assured,  however,  that 
when  intrigue  shall  disappear  the  festival  will  take  place;  but,  if 
he  is  in  a  hurry,  let  him  undertake  it  at  his  own  ex2:)ense,  since 
whosoever  says  the  paternoster  gets  the  benefit.* 

"(Signed)  An  Enemy  to  Hypocrites." 

A  school-teacher,  after  announcing  his  terms  for  tuition,  thus 
continues  and  concludes, — the  italics  being  his  own  : — 

"The  first-class  day -scholars  are  instructed  in  the  different 
branches  of  science  and  literature,  including  the  English,  French, 
Portuguese,  and  Latin  languages.  Second-class  jDupils  receive  a 
plain  education,  consisting  of  reading,  writing,  grammar,  arith- 
metic, and  Christian  doctrine. 

"  The  director,  not  being  in  the  habit  of  making  splendid  advertise- 
ments or  puffs  in  the  daily  papers,  or  of  throwing  dust  in  the  eyes 
of  the  public,  can  only  promise  that,  being  the  father  of  a  large 
famil}^  and  knowing  what  care  and  attention  children  require  as 
to  their  morals  and  education,  he  will  do  his  duty  toward  them 
accordingly." 

The  last  specimen  which  I  give  illustrates  the  early  marriages 
which  frequently  take  place  in  Brazil;  but  I  defy  any  other 
country  to  furnish  the  like  of  the  following  advertisement,  which 
appeared  in  the  Jornal  do  Gommercio  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  in  1852.  It 
is  so  unique  that  I  furnish  the  original  as  well  as  the  translation  : — 

"Precisa-se  de  uma  senhora  branca  de  afiangada  conducta,  e  com 
inteUigencia  bastante  para  fazer  companhia  a  uma  menina  casada 

*  "  Quern  rese  o  Pater  noster  come  o  pao." 


Freedom  of  the  Press.  255 

de  menor  idade,  aqual  precisa  de  algumas  instrucgoes  proprias  de 
seu  estado.  Quern  cstiver  nestas  circumstancias  annuncie  por  esta 
folha  para  ser  procurada." 

"Wanted. — A  white  lady  of  faithful  character  and  with  sufficient 
intelligence  to  be  the  companion  [or,  literally,  "  to  make  the  com- 
pany"] of  a  young  bride  who  is  a  minor,  and  who  is  in  need  of 
some  instructions  appropriate  to  her  state.  Whoever  possesses 
these  qualifications  may  make  known  her  address  in  the  columns 
of  this  journal." 

Various  allusions  to  the  entire  freedom  of  the  press  have  already 
been  made;  and  it  maj^  be  mentioned,  in  this  connection,  that  there 
was  an  interesting  example  of  its  use  for  advertisements  for  pro- 
moting the  Bible  in  Brazil,  and  also  its  employment  to  put  down 
an  effort  for  the  diffusion  of  the  Sacred  Scriptures.  My  co-author, 
(Dr.  Kidder,)  in  the  eai-ly  part  of  his  religious  labors  in  Brazil,  com- 
menced by  circulating  the  Bible.  I  prefer  to  give  his  experience 
in  his  own  words.  After  speaking  of  the  general  influence  of  the 
mother-country  iipon  Brazil,  he  sa^'S, — 

"Portugal  has  never  published  the  Bible  or  countenanced  its 
circulation  save  in  connection  with  notes  and  comments  that  had 
been  appi'oved  by  inquisitorial  censorship.  The  Bible  was  not 
enumerated  among  the  books  that  might  be  admitted  to  her  colo- 
nies when  under  the  absolute  dominion.  Yet  the  Brazilians,  on 
their  political  disenthralment,  adopted  a  liberal  and  tolerant  Con- 
stitution. Although  it  made  the  Eoman  Catholic  apostolic  religion 
that  of  the  State,  yet  it  allowed  all  other  forms  of  religion  to  be 
held  and  practised,  save  in  buildings  '  having  the  exterior  form  of 
a  temple.'  It  also  forbade  persecution  on  the  ground  of  religious 
opinions.  By  degrees,  enlightened  views  of  the  great  subjects  of 
tolei-ation  and  religious  liberty  became  widely  disseminated  among 
the  people,  and  hence  many  were  prepared  to  hail  any  movement 
which  promised  to  give  them  what  had  so  long  been  sys- 
tematically withheld, —  the  Scriptures  of  truth  for  their  own 
perusal.  Copies  exposed  for  sale  and  advertised  in  the  news- 
papers found  many  purchasers,  not  only  from  the  city,  but  also 
from  the  distant  provinces. 

"At  the  mission-house  many  copies  were  distributed  gratui- 
tously; and  on  several  occasions  there  was  what  might  be  called 


256  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

a  rush  of  applicants  for  the  sacred  volume.  One  of  these  occurred 
soon  after  n\y  arrival.  It  was  known  that  a  supply  of  books  had 
been  received,  and  our  house  was  literally  thronged  with  persons 
of  all  ages  and  conditions  of  life, — from  the  gray-headed  man  to 
the  prattling  child, — from  the  gentleman  in  high  life  to  the  poor 
slave.  Most  of  the  children  and  servants  came  as  messengers, 
bringing  notes  from  their  parents  or  masters.  These  notes  were 
invariably  couched  in  respectful,  and  often  in  beseeching,  lan- 
guage. Several  were  from  poor  widows  who  had  no  monc}^  to  buy 
books  for  their  children,  but  who  desired  Testaments  for  them  to 
read  at  school.  Another  was  from  one  of  the  Ministers  of  the 
Imperial  Government,  asking  for  a  suppl}"  for  an  entire  school  out 
of  the  city. 

"Among  the  gentlemen  who  called  in  j^erson  were  several  prin- 
cipals of  collegios,  and  many  students  of  different  grades.  Ver- 
sions in  French,  and  also  in  English,  as  well  as  Portuguese,  were 
sometimes  desired  by  amateur  linguists.  We  dealt  out  the  pre- 
cious volumes  according  to  our  best  judgment,  with  joy  and  with 
trembling.  This  being  the  first  general  movement  of  the  kind,  we 
were  at  times  inclined  to  fear  that  some  plan  had  been  concerted 
for  getting  the  books  destroj'ed,  or  for  involving  us  in  some  species 
of  difficulty.  These  ajiprehensions  were  contradicted,  however,  by 
all  the  circumstances  within  our  observation ;  and  all  who  came 
made  their  errand  on  the  ground  of  its  intrinsic  importance,  and 
listened  with  deep  attention  to  whatever  we  had  time  or  ability  to 
address  to  them  concerning  Christ  and  the  Bible. 

''It  was  not  to  be  presumed,  however,  that  so  great  an  amount 
of  scriptural  truth  could  at  once  be  scattered  among  the  people 
without  exciting  great  jealousy  and  commotion  among  certain  of 
the  padres.  Nevertheless,  others  of  this  class  w^ere  among  the 
applicants  themselves.  One  aged  priest,  who  called  in  person,  and 
received  by  special  request  copies  in  Portuguese,  French,  and 
English,  on  retiring,  said,  'The  like  was  never  before  done  in  this 
country.'  Another  sent  a  note  in  French,  asking  for  L'Ancien  et 
le  Nouveau  Testament.  In  three  days  two  hundred  copies  were  dis- 
tributed, and  our  stock  was  exhausted;  but  applicants  continued  to 
come,  till  it  was  estimated  that  four  times  that  number  had  been 
sailed  for.     All  we  could  respond  to  these  persons  was  to  inform 


Failure  of  Opposition  to  the  Bible.  257 

them  where  Bibles  were  kept  on  sale,  and  that  we  anticipated  a 
fresh  supply  at  some  future  day. 

"  We  were  not  disappointed  in  the  opposition  which  was  liliely 
to  be  called  forth  by  this  manifestation  of  the  popular  desire  for 
the  Scriptures.  A  series  of  low  and  vile  attacks  were  made  upon 
us  in  a  certain  newspaper,  corresponding  in  style  with  the  well- 
known  spirit  and  character  of  their  authors.  Indeed,  in  immediate 
connection  with  this  interesting  movement  a  periodical  was  started, 
under  the  title  of  0  CathoUco,  with  the  avowed  object  of  combating 
us  and  our  evangelical  operations.  It  was  an  insignificant  weekly, 
of  anonymous  editorship.  After  extravagant  promises,  and  re- 
peated efforts  to  secure  permanent  subscribers,  it  made  out  to 
struggle  against  public  contempt  for  the  space  of  an  entire  month. 
Yielding  to  the  stress  of  circumstances,  it  then  came  to  a  pause. 
An  effort  was  made  to  revive  it  some  time  after,  with  the  more 
imposing  title  of  0  CathoUco  Fluminense.  Thus  its  proprietors 
appealed  as  strongly  as  possible  to  the  sympathy  and  patriotism 
of  the  people,  by  the  use  of  a  term  of  which  the  citizens  of  Eio  de 
Janeiro  are  particularly  proud.  Under  this  heading  it  barely  suc- 
ceeded in  surviving  four  additional  numbers,  in  onl}^  one  of  which 
was  the  least  mention  made  of  the  parties  whose  efforts  to  spread 
the  pure  word  of  God  had  given  it  origin. 

''This  species  of  opposition  almost  always  had  the  effect  to 
awaken  greater  inquiry  after  the  Bible;  and  many  were  the  indi- 
viduals who,  on  coming  to  procure  the  Scriptures,  said  their  atten- 
tion was  first  called  to  the  subject  by  the  unreasonable  and  fanatical 
attempts  of  certain  priests  to  hinder  their  circulation.  They 
contemned  the  idea,  as  absurd  and  ridiculous,  that  these  men  should 
attempt  to  dictate  to  them  what  ihcy  should  not  read,  or  set  up  an 
inquisitorial  crusade  against  the  Bible.  They  wished  it,  and  if  for 
no  other  reason,  that  the}^  might  show  that  they  possessed  religious 
liberty,  and  were  determined  to  enjoy  it.  They  poured  inexpressi- 
ble contempt  upon  the  ignorance,  fanaticism,  and  even  the  immo- 
rality, which  characterized  some  of  the  pretended  ministers  of 
religion,  who  dreaded  to  have  their  lives  brought  into  comj^arison 
with  the  requirements  of  God's  word. 

"Those  of  our  friends  who  were  consulted  on  the  subject  almost 
invariably  counselled  us  to  take  no  notice  of  the  low  and  virulent, 

17 


258  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

attacks  made  upon  us,  with  which  the  people  at  kirge  had  no  sym- 
pathy, and  of  which  every  intelligent  man  would  perceive  the  un- 
worthy object.  Such  articles  would  refute  themselves,  and  injure 
their  authors  rather  than  us. 

"  The  results  justified  such  an  opinion.  One  gentleman  (a  Portu- 
guese) in  particular  said  to  us,  with  emphasis,  'Taking  no  notice 
of  these  things,  you  ought  to  continue  your  holy  mission,  and 
scatter  truth  among  the  people.'  With  this  advice  we  complied, 
and  it  is  now  a  pleasing  reflection  that  our  energies  and  time  were 
devoted  to  vastly  higher  and  nobler  objects  than  the  refutation  of 
the  baseless  but  rancorous  falsehoods  which  were  put  forth  against 
us.  We  knew  full  well  that  this  opposition  was  not  so  much  against 
us  as  against  the  cause  of  the  Bible,  with  which  we  were  identified, 
and  we  were  content  to  'stand  still  and  see  the  salvation  of  the 
Lord.'  And  most  delightful  it  was  to  witness  the  results  of  that 
overruling  Providence  which  can  make  the  wrath  of  man  tributary 
to  the  divine  praise. 

"The  malignity  of  this  worse  than  infidel  opposition  to  the 
truth  excited  the  curiosity  of  numbers  to  examine  whether  indeed 
the  word  of  God  was  not  *  profitable  for  instruction  and  for  doc- 
trine.' The  results  of  such  an  examination  upon  every  candid 
mind  may  be  easily  conjectured.  Thus  the  truths  of  inspiration 
found  free  course  to  hundreds  of  flimilies  and  scores  of  schools, 
where  they  might  be  safely  left  to  do  their  own  office  upon  the 
minds  and  hearts  of  the  people. 

"Some  instances  of  the  happy  and  immediate  effects  of  circulating 
the  Bible  came  to  our  knowledge;  but  it  is  reserved  for  eternity 
to  reveal  the  full  extent  of  the  benefit.  While  subsequently  tra- 
velling in  distant  provinces,  I  found  that  the  sacred  volumes  put 
in  circulation  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  had  sometimes  gone  before  me,  and 
wherever  they  went  an  interest  had  been  awakened  Avhich  led  the 
people  to  seek  for  more." 

There  are  other  means  than  newspapers  for  the  progress  of  the 
Brazilians  in  knowledge  and  belles-lettres. 

In  addition  to  the  various  colleges  and  academies  described  in 
another  chapter,  there  are  a  number  of  public  institutions  and  as- 
sociations whose  object  is  the  cultivation  of  literature  and  science, 
and  the  diffusion  of  knowledge. 


National  Library.  259 

The  Bibliotheca  Nacional  contains  100,000  volumes.  These  con- 
sist chiefly  of  the  books  originally  belonging  to  the  Eoyal  Library 
of  Portugal,  which  were  brought  over  by  Dom  John  VI.  The 
collection  is  annually  augmented  by  donations  and  Government 
aid.  It  was  thrown  open  to  the  public  by  the  Portuguese  monarch, 
and  has  ever  since  remained  under  suitable  regulations,  free  of 
access  to  all  who  choose  to  enter  its  saloon  and  read.  This  library 
is  open  daily  fl-om  nine  a.m.  till  two  p.m.,  and  was  formerly  en- 
tered from  the  Rua  detraz  do  Carmo;  but  the  Government  has 
recently  purchased  the  commodious  private  residence  of  Sr.  Vianna, 
which  is  beautifully  situated  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Passeio  Publico, 
where  the  accommodations  will  doubtless  be  superior  to  those 
which  it  has  hitherto  possessed.  When  it  was  located  in  the  old 
library-buildings,  it  presented  an  interesting  sight  to  the  visitor. 
Tables  covered  with  cloth,  on  which  were  arranged  writing- 
materials,  and  frames  designed  to  support  lai'ge  volumes,  extended 
throuofh  the  room  from  end  to  end.  The  shelves,  risinj;  from  the 
floor  to  the  lofty  ceiling,  were  covered  with  books  of  every 
language  and  date.  You  might  here  call  for  any  volume  the 
library  contained,  and  sit  down  to  read  and  take  notes  at  your 
pleasure.  The  newspapers  of  the  city  and  various  European 
magazines  were  always  ready  for  the  reader.  !Not  only  this  apart- 
ment, but  also  various  alcoves  and  rooms  adjoining  it  on  either 
hand,  were  filled  all  around  with  books.  This  collection  has  also 
been  increased  by  valuable  private  donations,  among  which  that  of 
the  books  of  the  late  Jose  Bonifacio  de  Andrada  deserves  especial 
mention. 

The  publicity  of  such  a  library  cannot  fail  to  have  a  beneficial 
influence  upon  the  literary  taste  and  acquirements  of  the  students 
of  the  metropolis, — which,  by  degrees,  will  extend  itself  to  tha 
whole  community.  While  the  student  at  Eio  may  find  in  tlie 
National  Library  nearly  all  that  he  can  desire  in  the  field  of  ancient 
literature,  he  may  also  easily  gain  access  to  more  modera  works 
in  the  subscription-libraries. 

The  English,  the  German,  and  the  Portuguese  residents  have 
severally  established  such  libraries  for  their  respective  use.  That 
of  the  English  is  somewhat  extensive  and  valuable. 

Among  the  Government  institutions  must  be  classed  the  National 


260 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


Museum,  on  the  Campo  de  Santa  Anna,  which  is  gratuitously  thrown 
open  to  visitors;  and  great  numbers  avail  themselves  of  this  plea- 
sanl  and  instructive  resort.  The  collection  of  minerals  has  been 
much  augmented  in  value  by  a  donation  from  the  heirs  of  Jose 
Bonifacio  de  Andrada.  They  presented  to  the  Museum  the  entire 
cabinet  of  their  father,  Avho  in  his  long  public  career  had  rare 
opportunities  for  making  a  most  valuable  collection.  At  an  eaily 
period  of  his  life  he  was  Professor  of  Mineralogy  in  the  University 
of  Coimbra,  Portugal,  where  he  published  several  works  that  gained 
tiim  a  reputation  among  the  scientific  men  of  Europe.     Through 

his  life  he  had  been 
industrious  in  ga- 
thering together 
models  of  machines 
and  mechanical  im- 
provements, toge- 
ther with  choice 
engravings  and 
coins ;  and  his 
heirs  certainly 

could  not  have 
made  a  more  mag- 
nanimous disposal 
of  the  whole  than 
to  confer  them 
upon  the  nation. 
The  department  of 
mineralogy  is  well 
arranged,  but  con- 
tains many  more 
foreign  than  native 
specimens.  The 
same  lack  of  Bra- 
zilian curiosities 
formerly  prevailed 
in  other  depart- 
ments, although  in  that  of  aboriginal  relics  there  has  been  from 
the  establishment  of  the  Museum  a  rich  collection  of  ornaments 


THE       HARPY     EAGLE. 


Brazilian  Historical  and  Geographical  Institute.   261 

and  feather-dresses  from  Para  and  Matte  Grosso.  There  is  a  con- 
stant enlargement  and  improvement  in  every  respect.  Still,  it 
may  be  said  that  while  the  cabinets  of  Munich  and  Vienna,  Paris, 
St.  Petersburg,  London,  and  Edinburgh  have  been  enriched  by 
splendid  collections  from  Brazil,  in  various  departments  of  natural 
history,  yet  in  the  Imperial  Museum  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  but  a  meagre 
idea  can  be  formed  of  the  interesting  productions — mineral,  vege- 
table, and  animal — in  which  the  Empire  abounds. 

It  was  here  that  I  saw  a  very  fine  living  specimen  of  the  great 
harpy  eagle,  from  the  forests  of  the  Amazon. 

There  is  an  Imperial  Academy  of  the  Fine  Arts,  which  was 
founded  in  1824,  by  a  decree  of  the  National  Assembly.  It  is  at 
present  organized  with  a  Director  and  four  Professors, — viz.:  of  paint- 
ing and  landscape,  of  architecture,  of  sculpture  and  of  design,  and 
a  corresponding  number  of  substitutes.  This  institution  is  open  to 
all  who  wish  to  be  instructed  in  either  department,  and  about 
seventy  students  are  annually  matriculated, — the  greater  proportion 
in  the  department  of  design.  This  Academy  also  provides  funds 
for  the  support  of  a  certain  number  of  its  most  meritorious  alumni 
at  Pome,  where  they  have  ample  opportunity  for  studj'ing  the 
classic  productions  of  ancient  and  modern  art. 

The  Conservatorio  de  Musica  is  a  State  Academy  where  instruc- 
tion in  instrumental  and  vocal  music  is  given  to  both  sexes  by 
competent  professors.  There  is  also  a  Conservatorio  Dramatico,  to 
whose  censorship  were  submitted,  in  1854,  two  hundred  and  fifty 
plays,  of  which  one  hundred  and  seventy  were  approved,  fifty-foui 
were  amended  or  suppressed,  and  thirty-three  w^ere  of  such  a  cha- 
racter as  not  only  to  be  suppressed  but  to  merit  unqualified  rebuke. 

The  Imperial  Agricultural,  the  Statistical,  and  the  Aiixiliadora 
Societies  enroll  many  public-spirited  men  and  good  writers.  But 
the  association  which  in  its  character,  dignity,  and  numbers  is 
the  first  in  all  South  America  is  the  Brazilian  Historical  and  Geo- 
graphical Institute,  organized  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  in  1838,  which  has 
done  more  than  any  other  society  to  awaken  the  spirit  of  Brazilian 
literary  enterprise.  This  association  adopted  as  its  fundamental 
plan  the  design  of  collecting,  arranging,  and  publishing  or  pre- 
serving documents  illustrative  of  the  history  and  geography  of 
Brazil.     Several  distinguished  persons   took  a  deep  interest  in  it 


262  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

from  the  first.  The  Governinent  also  lent  a  fostering  hand.  The 
Greneral  Assembly  voted  an  annual  subsidy  in  aid  of  its  objects,  and 
the  Department  of  Foreign  Affairs  instructed  the  attaches  of  the 
Brazilian  embassies  in  Europe  to  procure  and  to  copy  papers  of 
interest  that  exist  in  the  archives  of  different  courts,  relative  to 
the  early  history  of  Brazil.  By  this  movement  individual  exertions 
were  aroused,  and  the  spirit  of  inquiry  was  excited  in  different 
parts  of  the  Empire  as  well  as  abroad,  and  interesting  results  have 
already  been  accomplished. 

During  the  first  year  of  its  existence,  this  Institute  numbered 
near  four  hundred  members  and  correspondents,  and  had  collected 
over  three  hundred  manuscripts,  of  various  length  and  value.  The 
most  important  of  these  it  has  already  given  to  the  world,  together 
with  some  valuable  discourses  and  essays  furnished  by  its  members. 
Two  Fridays  of  each  month  are  devoted  to  the  sittings  of  this 
association;  and  none  of  its  members  and  patrons  are  so  punctual 
or  take  so  deep  an  interest  in  all  its  proceedings  as  Dom  Pedro  II. 
Its  organ  is  a  Quarterly  Eeview  and  Journal,  which  publishes  the 
proceedings  of  the  society  at  length,  together  with  all  the  more 
important  documents  read  before  it.  We  have  been  particularly 
interested  in  the  articles  it  has  contained  upon  the  aboriginal  tribes 
of  South  America,  and  also  in  its  biographical  sketches  of  dis- 
tinguished Brazilians.     The  President  is  the  Yiscount  de  Sapucahy. 

On  the  whole,  it  may  be  questioned  whether  the  Portuguese 
language  contains  a  more  valuable  collection  of  miscellany  than  is 
thrown  together  in  the  pages  of  the  Revista  Trimensal  ou  Jornal 
do  Instituto  Historico  Brazileiro. 

Almost  all  the  leading  men  of  Brazil  belong  to  the  learned  pro- 
fessions. Such  a  thing  as  an  eminent  mechanic  or  merchant  hold- 
ing high  position  in  the  State  I  believe  to  be  unknown.  There 
are  certain  officers  who  hold  their  appointment  and  receive  pay 
under  Government,  in  accordance  with  a  rule  which  deserves  par- 
ticular mention.  The  professors  of  some  of  the  public  institutions, 
and  perhaps  the  attaches  of  some  of  the  Government  bureaux, 
receive  a  certain  annual  salary.  It  may  not  be  large ;  but,  after 
holding  office  for  a  stipulated  number  of  years,  the  employee,  if  his 
conduct  has  been  without  reproach,  can  retire,  and  is  paid  from  the 
Imperial  Treasury  a  sum  equal  to  the  added  salaries  of  his  whole 


Administration  of  Justice.  263 

term  of  service.  This  is  a  strong  inducement  to  the  faithful  dis- 
charge of  duty,  and  perhaps  operates  to  keep  unscrupulous  dema- 
gogues from  seeking  office  as  a  reward  for  party  exertions.  It  is 
thus  that  the  under-officers  in  the  Brazilian  Government  acquire  a 
full  knowledge  of  the  difficult  routine  of  the  various  Departments  j 
and  the  changes  of  ministry  leave  no  difficulties  for  the  new  Cabinet 
to  surmount  in  carrying  on  the  machinery  of  government.  The 
Brazilian  mode  certainly  seems  more  in  accordance  with  common 
sense  than  the  rotation-in-office  principle  which  prevails  in  the 
United  States. 

In  another  chapter  will  be  found  the  course  of  study  pursued  in 
the  chief  law-school  of  the  Empire.  The  administration  of  justice 
is  much  simpler  than  in  England  or  the  United  States.  There  are 
almost  the  same  magistrates  and  judges,  under  different  names. 
The  delegado  or  suhdelegado  is  the  justice  of  the  peace;  the  juiz 
municipal  answers  to  the  circuit  judge  or  the  presiding  officer  of 
the  Court  of  Common  Pleas;  the  Juiz  dos  Orphcios  is  the  Judge  of 
Probate;  the  Juiz  de  Direito  is  the  Judge  of  the  Supreme  Court. 
There  are  district  supreme  judges  in  all  the  provinces,  and  there  is 
a  Supremo  Tribunal  de  Justicia,  which  corresponds  to  the  Supreme 
Court  of  the  United  States. 

From  the  experience  of  Governor  Kent  with  the  Brazilian  tri- 
bunals, and  from  the  interesting  letters  of  Eev.  Charles  N.  Stewart, 
I  cull  the  following  facts  in  regard  to  the  mode  of  conducting  a 
criminal  trial  at  Eio  de  Janeiro.  The  party  accused  is  first  brought 
before  the  suhdelegado  in  whose  district  the  crime  has  been  com- 
mitted. He  is  verbally  examined,  and  his  replies,  as  well  as  the 
questions,  are  all  recorded.  The  accused  is  asked  his  age,  profes- 
sion, &c.  as  minutely  as  the  magistrate  thinks  proper.  He  is  not 
compelled  to  answer,  but  his  silence  may  lead  to  unfavorable  in- 
ferences. The  examination  of  the  prisoner  is  followed  by  that  of 
the  witnesses,  who  are  sworn  by  placing  the  hand  upon  the  Bible. 
The  administration  of  the  oath  is  of  the  most  solemn  and  impres- 
sive character,  and  in  this  respect  at  least  the  Brazilians  read  us  a 
wholesome  and  a  needful  lesson.  All  rise — court,  officers,  bar,  and 
spectators — and  stand  in  profound  silence  during  the  ceremony. 
When  the  jury  retires  there  is  also  a  great  manifestation  of  respect, 
— all  standing:  until  the  twelve  have  left  the  court-room. 


264  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

The  subdelegado,  after  the  preliminary  examination,  decides 
whether  the  accused  shall  be  held  for  trial,  and  submits  the  papers 
with  his  decision  to  a  superior  officer,  who  usually  confirms  it,  and 
the  accused  is  imprisoned  or  released  on  bail. 

In  civil  cases,  unless  of  very  great  importance,  the  jurj^  does  not 
form  a  part  of  the  judicial  administration.  The  jury  consists  of 
twelve  men.  "Forty-eight  are  summoned  for  the  term;  and  the 
panel  for  each  trial  is  selected  by  lot,  the  names  being  drawn  by  a 
boy,  who  hands  the  paper  to  the  presiding  judge.  In  capital  cases 
challenges  are  allowed  without  the  demand  of  cause.  The  jury 
being  sworn  and  empannelled,  the  prisoner  is  again  examined  by 
the  judge — sometimes  at  great  length  and  with  gi*eat  minuteness 
— not  only  as  to  his  acts,  but  as  to  his  motives.  The  record  of  the 
former  proceedings,  including  all  the  testimony,  is  then  read.  If 
either  party  desire,  the  witnesses  may  be  again  examined,  if  pre- 
sent; but  they  are  not  bound  over,  as  with  us,  to  appear  at  the 
trial.  Hence,  the  examination  of  the  accused  and  the  witnesses  at 
the  preliminary  process  is  very  important  and  material.  In  many 
instances,  the  case  is  tried  and  determined  entirely  upon  the  record 
as  it  comes  up." — Brazil  and  La  Plata. 

When  the  record  is  read,  witnesses  are  produced  on  the  side  of 
the  Government,  and  the  prosecuting-attorney  addresses  the  juiy. 
The  testimony,  or  the  witnesses  of  the  defendant,  are  then  intro- 
duced, and  his  advocate  addresses — sometimes  at  great  length — 
the  twelve  on  whose  decision  hangs  the  destiny  of  his  client.  The 
prosecutor  replies  if  he  deem  it  best;  after  which  the  judge  briefly 
charges  the  jury  and  gives  them  a  series  of  questions  in  writing, 
the  answers  to  which  constitute  the  vei'dict;  and  thus,  it  will  be 
seen,  special  pleading  and  legal  skirmishing  is  in  a  great  measure 
defeated.  The  decision  in  each  case  is  by  majority,  and  not  by 
unanimity,  as  with  us.  A  case  began  is  generally  finished  without 
an  adjournment  of  the  court,  though  it  should  continue  through 
the  day  and  the  entire  night. 

The  arrangement  of  the  court-room  is  somewhat  different  from 
that  in  the  United  States.  The  judge,  with  his  clerk,  sits  on  one 
side  of  the  hall,  and  the  prosecuting-attorney  on  the  other.  The 
jury,  instead  of  being  in  a  ''box,"  are  seated  at  two  semicircular 
tables  placed  at  the  right  and  at  the  left  of  the  judge.    The  lawyers 


Trial  by  Jury.  265 

do  not  stand  when  they  address  the  jury,  but,  like  the  professores 
on  exaraination-da}',  the  collegios  always  make  their  speeches  ex 
cathedra.  The  lawyers  not  engaged  in  the  suit  which  may  be 
before  the  court  occup}'  a  kind  of  pew  which  resembles  the  box  for 
criminals  in  English  and  American  halls  of  justice. 

The  following  verdict  of  a  jury  was  returned  in  a  case  of  homi- 
cide Avhich  occurred  in  Bio  in  1851.  The  trial  came  off  in  the 
spring  of  1852,  and  the  "  return"  is  translated  fi*om  one  of  the  daily 
newspaj)er8  printed  at  the  capital,  and  gives  a  clear  and  concise 
notion  of  the  nature  of  the  questions  propounded  by  the  judge,  and 
the  ease  with  which  a  jury  can  come  to  a  speedy  conclusion  in 
regard  to  the  guilt  or  innocence  of  any  accused  individual : — 

Questions  propounded  by  the  Judge  to  the  Jury,  and  the  Verdict  rendered, 
in  the  Second  Trial  of  B. 

In  this  case  the  first  jury  fully  acquitted  the  respondent.  The 
presiding  judge  appealed  to  the  Court  of  Eela^ao,  consisting  of  all 
the  judges,  twelve  in  number.  This  court,  on  hearing,  sustained 
the  appeal  and  ordered  a  new  trial. 

Questions. 

1.  Did  the  defendant,  B.,  on  the  23d  of  September  of  the  lasl 
year,  kill,  by  discharging  a  pistol,  the  Italian,  C,  in  D.'s  hotel  ? 

Answer.  Yes;  (by  twelve  votes.) 

2.  Did  he  commit  the  offence  in  the  night-time? 
Ans.  Yes;  (by  eight  votes.) 

3.  Did  the  defendant  commit  the  offence  with  superiority  of 
arms,  in  a  manner  that  C.  could  not  defend  himself  with  a  proba- 
bility of  repelling  the  attack? 

Ans.  Yes;  (by  eleven  votes.) 

4.  Did  the  defendant  commit  the  offence  proceeding  with  con- 
cealment or  surprise  ? 

Ans.  No;  (by  seven  votes.) 

5.  Are  there  any  circumstances  extenuating  the  offence  in  favor 
of  the  defendant  ? 

Ans.  Yes;  (by  eight  votes.)  By  Act  18,  §  3,  of  the  Criminal 
Code: — "If  the  defendant  commits  the  crime  in  defence  of  his 
proper  person;"  and  ditto,  §  4  of  same  article  : — "If  the  defendant 


266  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

commits  the  offence  or  crime  in  retaliation  or  revdnge  of  an  injury 
or  dishonor  which  he  has  suffered." 

6.  Do  the  jury  find  that  the  respondent  commits  the  act 
(or  offence)  in  defence  of  his  person  ? 

Ans.  Yes;  (by  seven  votes.) 

7.  Was  the  defendant  certain  of  the  injury  (or  evil)  which  he 
intended  to  avoid  (or  escape  from)  ? 

Ans.  Yes ;  (by  seven  votes.) 

8.  Was  the  defendant  absolutely  without  other  means  less 
prejudicial  ? 

Ans.  No ;  (by  eight  votes.) 

9.  Had  the  defendant  provoked  the  occasion  for  the  conflict? 
Ans.  No;  (by  eight  votes.) 

10.  Had  the  defendant  done  any  wrong  which  occasioned  the 
conflict  ? 

Ans.  No ;  (by  eight  votes.) 

11  and  12,  (like  9  and  10,)  in  reference  to  the  family  of  the  de- 
fendant, if  they  had  provoked,  &c. ;  and  answered,  No,  (by  twelve 
votes  each.) 

Upon  this  verdict  the  court  adjudged  B.  guilty,  and  sentenced 
him  to  twelve  years'  imprisonment  at  hard  labor  and  the  costs. 

An  appeal  was  again  taken  to  the  same  Court  of  the  Eelacao. 
He  was  pardoned  by  the  Emperor,  October,  1852,  upon  application 
of  the  Minister-Plenipotentiary  of  his  (B.'s)  country  and  by  the 
petition  of  others. 

The  following  is  a  curious  case  of  some  legal  interest : — In 
February,  1853,  a  black  man  was  put  on  trial  before  the  jury  on 
charge  of  having  a  pocket-knife,  (jack-knife,  as  we  call  it.)  It  did 
not  appear  that  the  black  had  done  or  threatened  any  injury ;  but 
the  crime  was,  having  a  prohibited  article.  During  the  trial,  a 
white  man  appeared  and  claimed  the  negro  as  his  slave.  This 
claim  was  made  part  of  the  case  on  trial,  and  the  jury  were  directed 
to  determine  whether  he  was  free  or  the  slave  of  the  claimant. 
They  found,  by  the  judge  giving  the  casting  vote,  that  he  was 
free,  and,  by  ten  votes,  that  he  was  guilty  of  the  crime.  He 
was  sentenced  to  one  month's  impinsonment  as  a  freeman.  Thus, 
he  obtained  a  judicial  sec^ence  which  secured  his  freedom    and 


Complaints  of  Corruption.  267 

had  to  stay  one  month  as  a  lodger  in  jail.  A  luck}"  jack-knife 
to  him ! 

It  is  impossible,  in  a  "work  like  this,  to  enter  fully  into  the  merits 
and  demerits  of  the  mode  of  administering  law  in  Brazil.  From 
time  to  time  many  charges  of  corruption  have  been  brought,  by 
rumor,  against  those  who  administer  it,  and  doubtless,  in  some 
cases,  corruption  has  existed.  Those  who  have  had  property 
awaiting  certain  decisions  of  the  Juizes  dos  Orphaos  have  com- 
plained that  it  was  much  reduced  before  judgment  was  rendered. 
Foreigners  have  also  murmured  at  what  the}^  termed  unfairness, 
and  have  hinted  that  some  of  the  magistrates  have  not  been  above 
bribery. 

It  would  not  be  altogether  just  to  compare  the  administration 
of  law  in  Brazil  to  that  of  England  ;  but  I  hazard  nothing  in  saying 
that  in  no  country  of  South  America  is  there  greater  personal 
security  and  a  fairer  dispensation  of  justice  than  in  this  Empire. 
Each  year  the  various  codes  are  becoming  better  digested  ;  and  the 
number  of  eminent  men  in  the  legal  profession  has  placed  it,  in 
point  of  mental  ability,  in  the  first  rank  of  the  learned  vocations. 


CHAPTEE  XY. 

THE   CLIMATE    OF    BRAZIL — ITS    SUPERIOEITY    TO    OTHER    TROPICAL    COUNTRIES COOL 

RESORTS TRIP    TO     ST.    ALEXIO BRAZILIAN    JUPITER    PLUVIUS THE    MULATTO 

IMPROVISOR SYDNEY    SMITH's   "  IMMORTAL"    SURPASSED — A    LADY's    IMPRESSIONS 

OF     TRAVEL AN    AMERICAN     FACTORY A     YANKEE    HOUSE THE    RIDE    UP    THE 

ORGAN    MOUNTAINS FORESTS,    FLOWERS,    AND    SCENERY — SPECULATION     IN    TOWN- 
LOTS — BOA    VISTA HEIGHT     OF     THE      SERRA     DOS     OEGOES CONSTANCIA THE 

"HAPPY    valley" THE     TWO     SWISS    BACHELORS YOUTH    RENEWED PROSAIC 

CONCLUSION TODD'S     "  STUDENT'S    MANUAL" THE    TAPIR THE    TOUCAN THE 

FIRE-FLIES EXPENSES      OF      TRAVELLING NOVA    FEIBOURGO CANTA     GALLO  — 

PETROPOLIS. 

Those  whose  tropical  expei'ience  has  been  in  the  East  Indies  or 
the  westei'n  coast  of  Africa  can  have  no  just  conception  of  the 
delightful  climate  of  the  greater  portion  of  Brazil.  It  would  scera 
as  if  Providence  had  designed  this  land  as  the  residence  of  a  srreat 
nation.  Nature  has  heaped  up  her  bounties  of  every  description  : 
cool  breezes,  lofty  mountains,  vast  rivers,  and  plentiful  pluvial  irri- 
gation, are  treasures  far  surpassing  the  sparkling  gems  and  the 
rich  minerals  which  abound  within  the  borders  of  this  extended 
territory.  No  burning  sirocco  wafts  over  this  fair  land  to  wither 
and  desolate  it,  and  no  vast  desert,  as  in  Africa,  separates  its  fer- 
tile provinces.  That  awful  scourge,  the  earthquake, — which  causes 
strong  men  to  become  weak  as  infants,  and  which  is  constantly 
devastating  the  cities  of  Spanish  America, — disturbs  no  dweller  in 
this  Empire.  While  in  a  large  part  of  Mexico,  and  also  on  the 
west  coast  of  South  America, — from  Copiapo  to  the  fifth  degree 
of  south  latitude, — rain  has  never  been  known  to  fall,  Brazil  is 
refreshed  by  copious  showers,  and  is  endowed  with  broad,  flowing 
rivers,  cataracts,  and  sparkling  streams.  The  Amazon, — or,  as  the 
aborigines  term  it.  Para,  "the  father  of  waters," — with  his  mighty 
branches,  irrigates  a  surface  equal  to  two-thirds  of  Europe;  and 

the  San  Francisco,  the  Parahiba  do  Sul,  the  vast  affluents  of  the 

2G8 


The  Climate  of  Brazil.  269 

La  Plata,  under  the  names  of  the  Paraguay,  Parana,  Cuiba,  Para- 
nahiba,  and  a  hundred  other  streams  of  lesser  note,  moisten  the 
fertile  soil  and  bear  their  tributes  to  the  ocean  through  the  southern 
and  eastern  portions  of  the  Empire.  Let  any  one  glance  at  the 
map  of  Brazil,  and  he  will  instantly  be  convinced  that  this  land  is 
designed  by  nature  for  the  sustenance  of  millions. 

Now,  there  must  be  some  reason  for  this  bountiful  irrigation, 
this  fertility  of  soil  and  salubrity  of  climate. 

Lieutenant  Maury — who  seems  almost  literally  to  have  taken 
*'  the  winffs  of  the  mornino-"  and  to  have  flown  to  the  uttermost 
parts  of  the  sea — has  shown  conclusively  why  it  is  that  Brazil  is 
so  blessed  above  corresponding  latitudes  in  other  lands.  South 
America  is  like  a  great  irregular  triangle,  w^hose  longest  side  is 
ujion  the  Pacific.  Of  the  tw^o  sides  w^hich  lie  upon  the  Atlantic, 
the  longest  —  extending  from  Cape  Horn  to  Cape  St.  Eoque — is 
three  thousand  five  hundred  miles,  and  looks  out  upon  the  south- 
east ;  while  the  shortest — looking  northeastward — has  a  length  of 
two  thousand  five  hundred  miles.  This  configuration  has  a  power- 
ful etfect  upon  the  temperature  and  the  irrigation  of  Brazil.  The 
La  Plata  and  the  Amazon  result  from  it,  and  from  those  wonderful 
winds,  called  the  trades,  which  blow  upon  the  two  Atlantic  sides 
of  the  great  triangle.  These  winds,  which  sweep  from  the  north- 
east and  from  the  southeast,  come  laden,  in  their  journey  over  the 
ocean,  \vith  humidity  and  with  clouds.  They  bear  their  vapory 
burdens  over  the  land,  distilling,  as  they  fly,  refreshing  moisture 
upon  the  vast  forests  and  the  lesser  mountains,  until,  finally  caught 
up  by  the  lofty  Andes,  in  that  rarefied  and  cool  atmosphere  they 
are  wholly  condensed,  and  descend  in  the  copious  rains  which  per- 
petuall}^  nourish  the  sources  of  two  of  the  mightiest  rivers  of  the 
world.  The  prevailing  winds  on  the  Pacific  coast  are  north  and 
south.  No  moisture  is  borne  from  the  ocean  to  the  huge  barrier 
of  mountains  within  sight  of  the  dashing  waves,  and  hence  the 
aridity  of  so  much  of  the  hypothenuse  of  the  triangle.  I  have 
beheld  the  western  and  eastern  coasts  of  South  America  within 
thirty  days  of  each  other,  and  the  former  seemed  a  desert  com- 
pared with  the  latter. 

No  other  tropic  country  is  so  generally  elevated  as  Brazil. 
Though  there  are  no  very  lofty  mountains  except  upon  its  extreme 


270  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

western  border,  yet  the  whole  Empire  has  an  average  elevation 
of  more  than  seven  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

This  o;reat  elevation  and  those  stron^c  trade-winds  combine  to 
produce  a  climate  much  cooler  and  more  healthful  than  the  cor- 
responding latitudes  of  Africa  and  Southern  Asia.  The  traveller, 
the  naturalist,  the  merchant,  and  the  missionary  do  not  have  their 
first  months  of  pleasure  or  usefulness  thrown  away,  or  their  con- 
stitutions imj)aired  by  acclimating  fevers. 

The  mean  temperature  of  Brazil — which  extends  from  nearly 
the  fifth  degree  of  north  latitude  to  the  thirty-third  of  south 
latitude  (almost  an  intertropical  region)  —  is  from  81°  to  88° 
Fahrenheit,  according  to  diflTcrent  seasons  of  the  year.  At  Eio  de 
Janeiro, —  on  the  authority  of  Dr.  Dundas, —  the  mean  tempera- 
ture of  thirty  years  was  73°.  In  December,  (which  corresponds  to 
June  in  the  Northern  Hemisphere,)  maximum,  892°;  minimum, 
70°  ;  mean,  79°.  In  July,  (coldest  month,)  maximum,  79° ;  mini- 
mum, 66°;  mean,  732°.  I  can  add,  from  my  own  observations  for 
several  years,  that  I  never  saw  90°  attained  in  the  summer-time, 
and  the  lowest  in  the  winter  (June,  July,  and  August)  was  60°, 
and  this  was  earl}'  in  the  morning. 

The  heat  of  summer  is  never  so  oppressive  as  that  which  I  have 
often  experienced,  in  the  hot  days  of  July  and  August,  at  New 
York  and  Boston,  where  frequently  the  high  point  of  104°  or 
105°  Fahrenheit  has  been  reached.  It  must,  however,  be  conceded 
that  three  months  of  weather  ranging  between  73°  and  89°  would 
be  intolerable  if  it  were  not  for  the  cool  sea-breeze  on  the  coast 
which  generally  sets  in  at  eleven  a.m.,  and  the  delicious  land- 
breeze  which  so  gently  fans  the  earth  until  the  morning  sun  has 
flashed  over  the  mountains.  In  the  interior  the  nights  are  alwaj'S 
cool;  and  it  may  be  added  that,  one  hundred  miles  from  the  sea- 
coast,  the  climate  is  entirely  different. 

Eio  is  happily  situated  in  its  accessibility  to  the  elevated  regions. 
An  hour's  ride  leaves  you  among  the  cascades  and  coolness  of 
Tijuca ;  six  hours  by  steamer,  railway,  and  coach  lift  you  up  to 
the  mountain-city  of  Petropolis ;  or  twelve  hours  will  bring  you 
amid  the  sublimities  of  the  Serra  dos  Orgaos  and  the  silent  and 
refreshing  shades  of  Constancia,  where,  at  Heath's,  we  may  be  far 
away  from  the  dust,  din,  and  diplomacy  which  are  the  constant 


Trip  to  St.  Alexio.  271 

concomitants  of  the  commercial  and  political  capital  of  Brazil. 
Again,  we  may  vary  our  route  and  ascend  the  mountains  to  the 
elevated  uplands  upon  which  are  situated  the  prosperous  towns 
of  Nova  Fribourgo  and  Canta  Gallo,  with  their  adjacent  flourishing 
cofiee-plantations.  All  of  these  are  delightful  resorts,  and  are  be- 
coming each  summer  more  and  more  frequented. 

Not  far  from  the  usual  route  to  Constancia  is  the  sweet  little 
valley  of  St.  Alexio,  where  an  American  has  erected  a  cotton- 
factory  in  the  midst  of  the  most  beautiful  tropic  scenery.  To 
some  it  might  be  a  profanation  that  these  wilds  should  be  startled 
by  any  other  sounds  than  the  leaping  streams  from  the  Serra,  or 
the  songs  of  birds  and  the  shrill  music  of  the  cicada ;  but  perhaps 
there  are  few  who  would  not  be  content  to  behold  industr}^  taking 
the  place  of  indolence,  though  they  might  yield  to  none  in  love  for 
the  beautiful. 

I  visited  St.  Alexio  a  number  of  times,  and  enjoyed  the  kind 
hospitality  of  its  director,  who  through  many  obstacles  had  at  last 
triumphed  in  establishing  the  first  successful  cotton-manufactory 
in  the  province  of  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

My  last  visit  to  St.  Alexio  was  made  under  such  circumstances 
of  weather  that  I  am  consti-ained  to  give  it  as  an  instance  of  what 
must  be  expected  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year.  Though  in  the 
pi'ovince  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  there  is  no  ''rainy  season,"  proj^erly  so 
called,  yet  many  visitors  to  the  capital  will  not  soon  forget  the 
drenching  rains,  made  doubly  perceptible  by  the  uncouth  water- 
spouts (see  those  in  the  engraving  of  the  "  Senate-House  ")  which 
formerly  poured  more  than  a  miniature  cascade  upon  the  passers- 
by.  But  of  these  spouts  it  may  now  be  said  their  "occupation's 
gone,"  and  by  a  city  ordinance  they  are  really  where  Intrudo 
is, — among  the  curiosities  of  Eio  that  have  only  a  historical 
existence. 

The  usual  mode  of  getting  to  St.  Alexio  is  by  steamer  to 
Piedade,  and  thence  by  carriage  to  the  secluded  valley  some  eight 
or  ten  miles  from  the  landing-place.  On  the  occasion  of  the  visit 
referred  to,  I  was  accompanied  by  a  number  of  friends,  among 
whom  was  Mr.  M.,  the  worthy  director  and  one  of  the  owners  of 
the  "  Fabrica." 

"We  left  the  Quai  dos  Mineiros  (not  far  from  the  Convent  of  San 


272  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Bento)  in  the  little  clumsy  steamer  that  plies  between  Eio  and  the 
upper  end  of  the  bay.  The  morning  was  bright,  but  we  were 
soon  overtaken  by  a  thunder-storm.  Such  rain!  In  temperate 
zones  we  fancy  that  we  know  what  is  meant  by  rain.  Quite  a 
mistake!  It  is  child's  play  when  compared  to  the  pouring  tor- 
rents of  the  tropics.  There  was  no  cabin,  and  the  curtains  but 
half  performed  their  oflSce.  In  rushed  the  water  over  our  clothes, 
under  our  feet,  and  out  at  the  scuppers,  like  holy-stone  day  on 
board  ship. 

When  we  were  sufficiently  wet,  the  rain  abated  and  the  curtain 
rose.  And  well  that  it  did  so;  for  the  bad  weather  had  driven  in 
all  the  motley  crowd  of  troupeiros  usually  occupying,  along  with 
their  more  respectable  animals,  the  forward-deck  of  the  boat;  and 
the  hot  steam  arising  from  the  greasy  cattle-drivers,  the  unkempt 
muleteers,  and  the  damp  darkies,  was  not  the  most  agreeable  to 
the  lady  portion  of  our  company. 

The  time  was  beguiled  in  looking  at  the  glorious  scenery  and  in 
listening  to  the  improvisation  of  a  mulatto  who  was  going  to  a 
festa  in  Maje,  there  to  sell  his  wit  and  his  doces.  He  told  long 
stories  in  verse,  and  imitated  different  voices  with  admirable  skill. 
"When  asked  to  improvise  on  Paqueta,  the  lovely  insular  gem  that 
we  were  passing,  he  immediately  dashed  off  in  a  strain  of  poetry, 
describing  the  beauties  of  the  island,  and  then  descanted  on  the 
fiiults  and  failings  of  its  inhabitants,  and  in  a  satiric  strain  worth}' 
of  Juvenal  lashed  the  proceedings  of  the  people  who  frequented  the 
religious  festas  that  are  annually  held  on  its  bright  shores.  He 
concluded  with  a  eulogy  on  Jose  Bonifacio  de  Andrada,  who  here 
ended  his  days.  In  short,  had  Corinne  heard  him,  jealousy  would 
have  saved  her  the  trouble  of  dying  for  love.  Jesting  apart,  the 
man's  talent  was  of  a  high  order,  and  the  harmonious  and  flowing 
verse  showed  the  adaptation  of  the  Portuguese  language  to 
rhythmical  composition 

After  a  hasty  repast  at  a  rude  inn  near  the  landing-place  of 
Piedade,  we  prepared  for  the  road.  Up  came  our  equipage.  I 
must,  in  justice  to  our  worthy  host,  say  that  his  nice  American 
vehicle  had  received  some  injury,  so  that  he  could  only  send  his 
mules  and  engage  the  best  conveyance  afforded  by  the  village  of 
Maje.     We  felt  some  slight  remorse  at  the  destruction  of  life  that 


A  Lady's  Impkessions  of  Travel.  213 

our  entrance  into  the  venerable  vehicle  must  have  caused,  as  it 
seemed  to  have  served  as  a  temporary  refuge  to  some  gay,  locked-out 
rooster.  But  we  ought  not  to  speak  ill  of  the  aged.  Guiltless 
alike  of  paint  and  washing,  it  far  outdid  Sydney  Smith's  ''Immor- 
tal," which,  doubtless,  was  kept  in  perfect  cleanliness  by  his  tidy 
Yorkshire  servants.  However,  the  sight  of  a  good  team  reconciletl 
us  to  the  rudeness  of  the  vehicle.  Four  fine  mules  plunged  along 
through  mud  and  water :  I  then  understood  how  philosophical  it 
was  to  avoid  the  trouble  of  washing  a  carriage.  The  Hyde  Park 
turn-out  of  Count  D'Orsay  or  the  Earl  of  Harrington,  in  one  short 
mile,  would  have  been  on  a  par  with  ours.  We  forded  juvenile 
rivers  and  newlj'-made  brooks;  we  lumbered,  up  hill  and  down 
dale;  now  the  coachman  made  a  skilful  detour  close  to  a  bank  to 
avoid  a  deep  mud-hole  on  the  other  side,  and  now  he  was  obliged  to 
pass  under  some  tree  whose  overhanging  branches  gave  us  a  capital 
douche.  After  some  miles  of  this  travel  we  stopped  at  a  venda  to 
give  the  animals  breath  and  water  before  the  gallop  down  the  slope. 
Soon  we  were  off  again. 

"  On,  on  Tve  hasten'd,  and  we  drew 
Their  gaze  of  wonder  as  we  flew!" 

And  there  was  as  black  a  tempest  gathering  for  us  poor  Giaours  as 
ever  threatened  to  wet  that  uncomfortable,  sword-waving  rider  of 
the  "blackest  steed!"  Down  came  night  and  Brazilian  rain! 
What  had  formerly  been  the  hood  of  the  carriage  was  transformed 
into  a  sort  of  a  kitchen-sink,  with  a  hole  in  the  middle,  through 
which  poured  the  water.  Luckily,  we  had  an  umbrella :  this  was 
inserted  in  the  hole,  and  thus  the  stream  was  averted  from  our  de- 
voted heads. 

In  the  midst  of  all  this  our  driver  gave  a  loud  whistle,  ai  d 
thereupon  out  rushed  four  dark  figures  from  a  hut  by  the  roadside. 
A  lady  of  the  party  afterward  described  her  romantic  impressions 
of  this  scene  as  follows: — 

'•What  my  companions  felt  I  know  not;  but  it  was  quite  allow- 
able for  me,  a  poor,  weak  woman,  to  give  myself  over  as  robbed, 
or,  at  least,  'murthered!'  One  man  jumped  on  the  box  with  a 
huge  stick  in  his  hand,  and  the  others  followed  behind,  uttering  a 
series  of  unearthly  yells  and  undesirable  epithets,  but  all  addressed 

to  the  mules;    and,  as  I  knew  that  the  skins  and  skulls  of  those 

18 


274 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians 


beasts  were  thicker  than  mine,  I  was  consoled.  It  was  a  party 
sent  to  push  us  up  a  steep  hill;  for  be  it  known  to  all  who  are 
ignorant  of  the  idiosyncrasy  of  these  animals,  that,  when  once  they 
consider  the  task  assigned  to  them  uni-easonable,  no  persuasion 
can  induce  them  to  set  shoulder  to  the  work.  No  doubt  they  cry 
to  Jupiter,  but  he  will  not  help  them;  and  so  they  stand  still,  or 
allow  the  vehicle  to  draw  them  backward;  and  on  the  edge  of  a 


THE    FABRICA     AT    ST.ALEXIO. 


precipice  this  is  not  a  pleasant  way  of  travelling.  So,  after  each 
mule  had  clearly  learned  from  the  yelling  quartette  the  estimation 
in  which  he  was  held,  we  gained  the  summit.  How  gladly  we 
rolled  down  into  that  beautiful  valley  where  the  factory  raises  its 
white  walls!  We  afterward  beheld  it  under  a  bright  sun,  and 
Southej^'s  remark  that  '  even  nature  herself  abhors  a  factory,  and 
refuses  to  clothe  its  walls  with  climbers/  is  here  contradicted,  for 


A  Grove  of  Sensitive  Trees.  275 

the  lovely  glen  in  whose  bosom  this  building  reposes  would  lend 
grace  to  any  structure. 

"How  hearty  was  our  welcome  from  the  pretty  Virginia  hosto-ss 
who  met  us  as  we  entered,  all  forlorn!  Eight  gayly  we  recounted 
our  fright  and  adventures,  and  it  was  the  old  story  over  again  : — 

"  '  She  loved  us  for  the  dangers  we  had  pass'd, 
And  we  loved  her  that  she  did  pity  them.' 

"  Byron  could  not  bear  to  see  a  lady  eat, — it  is  so  unethereal. 
Strictly  speaking,  it  is  a  singular  process, — throwing  sundry  morsels 
into  a  hole  iu  your  face  and  using  your  chin  as  a  mill.  Of  course, 
it  was  only  the  masculine  part  of  the  company  who  partook  of 
the  Westphalia  ham,  broiled  chicken,  and  other  dainties  prepared 
by  the  good  hostess.  Such  proceedings  did  not  agree  with  the 
poetical  feelings  of  my  more  celestial  nature !" 

The  following  morning  we  survej'cd  the  locality.  The  jjro- 
prietor's  house  stands  at  a  short  distance  from  the  factory,  and 
both  were  actually  framed  in  the  United  States,  brought  out  in 
pieces,  and  put  together  in  Brazil.  The  pine  used  for  the  house 
has,  in  spite  of  predictions  to  the  contrary,  proved  sujierior  in 
durability  to  jSIorwegiau  pine.  A  meadow  of  bright  green  slopes 
away  from  the  house  toward  a  clear,  rapid  brook,  which,  after 
rains,  may  well  be  called  a  river;  but  in  dry  weather  it  is  easily 
traversed  on  the  stones  that  strew  its  bed.  Mr.  M.  had  long  and 
painful  researches  to  find  a  stream  that  never  dries  up  even  in  the 
hottest  season.  At  last  he  discovered  this  little  river,  and  here 
took  up  his  abode.  The  hills  rise  around,  covered  with  the  most 
luxuriant  growth;  here  and  there  a  stately  palm  rises  like  a  chief- 
tain above  its  fellows;  farther  on,  the  mountains  stretch  away  and 
blend  with  the  clear  blue  of  the  heavens.  On  the  branches  sing 
bright-plumaged  birds,  that  seem,  in  the  early  morning,  to  call  on 
the  sensitive-plant  trees  to  awake  from  their  night's  slumber.  It 
was,  indeed,  hard  for  me  to  realize  that  the  little  sensitive-jDlant 
which  I  had  looked  upon  at  home  as  among  the  most  delicate  of 
exotics  is  here  reproduced  in  almost  giant  forms.  Its  family  abounds 
in  Brazil,  and  the  grove  that  surrounds  the  residence  of  Mr..  M.  is 
actually  composed  of  trees  which  quietly  fold  their  leaves  in  repose 
at  vespers,  only  to  be  awakened  by  the  morning  sun  and  the  sing- 


276 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


iiig-birds.  The  city-friends  of  Mrs.  M.  used  to  oifer  their  condo- 
lence that  she  was  so  for  removed  from  society  in  that  retired  vale; 
but  they  were  always  cut  short  in  their  proffered  sympathy  by  the 
information  that  no  sense  of  loneliness  pr^ivailcd  in  that  sweet 
spot.  There  one  may  find  companionship  in  those  majestic  moun- 
tains "precipitously  steep,"  the  flowering  woods,  th^  forest-voices, 
and  the  gushing  music  of  brooks  and  fountains. 


A     YANKEE     HOUSE     IN      BRAZIL. 


The.  remembrance  of  St.  Alexio  is  like  that  of  a  pleasant  dream, 
or  the  sunny  memories  of  the  secluded  vales  and  sparkling  waters 
at  the  base  of  the  Dent  du  Midi, — not  a  day's  ride  from  the  upper 
end  of  the  Lake  of  Geneva. 

Mr.  M.  deserves  the  greatest  credit  for  his  persevering  efforts 
which  placed  here  this  first  successful  cotton-manufactory  in  the 
province.  Others  had  endeavored  to  establish  similar  fabricas,  to 
be  driven  by  steam-power,  in  the  city;  but  they  were  failures.  Not 
only  had  Mr.  M.  to  contend  with  nature,  but  probably  his  worst 
annoj^ances  came  from  a  dilatory  Government.  As  to  operatives, 
the  factory  is  supplied  from  the  German  colony  of  Petropolis. 
Another  has  paid  a  just  tribute  of  merit  to  Mr.  M. ;  and  I  can 
heartily  subscribe  to  the  sentiments  therein  contained: — "Though 
it  is  only  in  the  more  common  fabrics  in  cotton  that  the  manufac- 
turer can  yet  compete  with  British  and  American  goods,  yet  he 


Blooming  Forests  of  the  Serra  dos  Orgaos.       277 

[Mr  M.]  deserves  a  medal  of  honor  from  the  Government,  and 
the  patronage  of  the  whole  Empire,  not  only  for  the,  establish- 
ment of  the  manufactory,  but  for  the  living  example  —  set 
before  a  whole  province  of  indolent  and  sluggish  natives  —  of 
Yankee  energy,  ingenuity,  indefatigable  industry,  and  unyielding 
perseverance."     (Mr.  M.  died  in  1857.) 

It  is  a  comfortable  day's  ride  from  St.  Alexio  to  Constancia, — • 
though  the  usual  manner  of  procedure  is  to  start  at  mid-day  from 
Kio  in  the  steamer,  arrive  at  Piedade  at  three  o'clock,  where 
mules  and  guides  are  awaiting  those  w^ho  have  been  prudent  enough 
to  announce  by  letter  to  the  "jolly  Heath"  their  intention  of 
spending  a  few  days  amid  the  Serra  dos  Orgaos.  A  few  hours 
acx'oss  the  lowlands  bring  us  through  the  town  of  Maje  to  Frechal, 
(or Freixal,)  where  the  weary  and  the  lazy  often  spend  a  night  in 
a  dirty  inn,  surrounded  by  crowds  of  children,  (the  proprietor  is 
the  father  of  twenty-three  meninos,)  and  by  vast  troops  of  mules, 
which,  laden  with  coffee,  are  on  their  way  to  the  steamer  at 
Piedade.  But  for  those  who  love  a  dashing  ride  up  the  mountains, 
on  a  road  in  some  places  paved  as  the  old  Eoman  causeways, — 
those  who  wish  to  feel  an  evening  atmosphere  which  in  coolness 
and  chilliness  reminds  one  of  the  temperate  zone, — the  Barreira 
will  be  the  resting-place.  Here  is  the  toll-gate  of  this  fine  moun- 
tain mule-path,  which  must  have  been  built  at  an  immense  cost, 
as  several  miles  are  paved  like  the  streets  of  a  city. 

We  zigzag  up  the  steep  sides  of  the  Serra,  looking  down  upon 
the  tops  of  majestic  forest-trees  whose  very  names  are  unfamiliar, 
and  whose  appearance  is  as  curious  as  picturesque  and  beautiful. 
Dr.  Gardner,  who  made  a  most  thorough  investigation  of  the  flora 
of  the  Organ  Mountains,  has  recorded  in  his  interesting  travels  the 
vegetal  riches  of  this  lofty  range,  and  those  who  would  revel  in 
descriptions  of  palms,  Cassim,  Lauri,  Bignonias,  Myrtacece,  Orchi- 
de(V,  Bromellacece,  ferns,  &c.  &c.  must  turn  to  the  pages  of  a  work 
which,  though  necessarily  deficient  in  the  history,  politics,  and 
present  condition  of  Brazil,  is  the  most  unassuming  and  charming 
book  ever  written  on  the  natural  asj)ect  of  the  tropic  land  under 
consideration. 

In  the  months  of  April  and  May,  (October  and  November  in 
Brazil,)  only  the  autumnal  tints  of  our  gorgeous  North  American 


278  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

woods  can  compare  with  the  sight  of  the  forest  of  the  Serra  dos 
Orgaos.  Then  the  various  species  of  the  Laurus  are  blooming,  and 
the  atmosphere  is  loaded  with  the  rich  perfume  of  their  tiny  snow- 
white  blossoms.  The  Cassice  then  put  forth  their  millions  of  golden 
flowers,  while,  at  the  same  time,  huge  trees — whose  native  names 
would  be  more  unintelligible,  though  less  pedentic,  than  their 
botanic  terms  of  Lasiandra,  Fontanesia,  and  others  of  the  Melas- 
toma  tribe  —  are  in  full  bloom,  and,  joining  rich  purple  to  the 
brightest  yellow,  jjresent,  together  with  gorgeously-clothed  shrubs, 
"flowers  of  more  mingled  hue  than  her  [Iris's]  purpled  scarf 
can  show."  From  time  to  time  a  silk-cotton-tree  (the  Chorisia 
speciosa^  shoots  up  its  lofty  hemispherical  top,  covered  with 
thousands  of  beautiful  large  rose-colored  blossoms,  which  grate- 
fully contrast  with  the  masses  of  vivid  green,  purple,  and  yellow 
that  clothe  the  surrounding  trees.  Floral  treasures  are  heaped 
on  every  side.  Wild  vines,  twisted  into  most  fantastic  forms  or 
hanging  in  graceful  festoons, — passion-flowers,  trumpet-flowers, 
and  fuchsias  in  their  native  glory, — tree-ferns,  whose  elegance  of 
form  is  only  surpassed  by  the  tall,  gently-curved  palmito,  which 
is  the  very  embodiment  of  the  line  of  beauty, —  orchids,  whose 
flowers  are  of  as  soft  a  tint  as  the  blossom  of  the  peach-tree,  or  as 
brilliant  as  red  spikes  of  fire, — curious  and  eccentric  epiphytes 
draping  naked  rocks  or  the  decaj'ing  branches  of  old  forest-mon- 
archs, — all  form  a  scene  enrapturing  to  the  naturalist,  and  bewilder- 
ing with  its  richness  to  the  uninitiated,  who  still  appreciate  the 
beauty  and  the  splendor  that  is  scattered  on  every  side  by  the 
Hand  Divine.  The  overpowering  sensation  which  one  experiences 
when  entering  an  extensive  conservatory  filled  with  the  choicest 
plants,  exotics  of  the  rarest  description,  and  odor-laden  flowers, 
is  that  (multiplied  a  thousandfold)  which  filled  my  mind  as  I  gazed 
for  the  first  time  upon  the  landscape,  with  its  tiers  of  mountains 
robed  in  such  drapery  as  that  described  above;  and  yet  there  was 
such  a  feeling  of  liberty,  incompatible  with  the  sensation  expressed 
by  the  word  "overpowering,"  that  it  is  impossible  to  define  it.  In 
the  province  of  Minas-Geraes,  from  a  commanding  point,  I  once 
beheld  the  magnificent  forest  in  bloom ;  and,  as  the  hills  and  undu- 
lating plains  stretched  far  away  to  the  horizon,  they  seemed  to  be 
envelojDcd  in  a  fairy-mist  of  purple  and  of  gold. 


Speculation  in  Town-Lots.  279 

The  Barreira  is  situated  in  a  spot  of  great  wildness  and  sublimity; 
for  the  Organ-peaks,  that  rise  thousands  of  feet  above,  seem  like 
the  aifjuilles  which  start  fantastically  from  the  glaciers  of  Mont 
Blanc;  and  the  rushing,  leaping,  thundering  cascades  are  com- 
parable to  the  five  wild  mountain-torrents,  "fiercely  glad,"  that 
pour  into  the  Vale  of  Chamouny.  I  was  once  at  the  Barreira  during 
a  tropic  storm,  and  the  foaming,  roaring  rivers,  which  hurried 
down  with  fearful  leap  from  the  very  region  of  dread  lightning 
and  clouds,  niadlj'  dashed  against  the  huge  masses  of  granite,  as 
if  they  would  have  hurled  them  from  their  mighty  fastenings,  and 
tore  their  way  into  the  deep  valley  beneath  with  sounds  that 
reverberated  among  the  giant  peaks  above,  giving  me  a  new  com- 
mentary on  the  sublime  description  in  the  Apocalypse  : — "And  I 
heard  a  voice  from  heaven,  as  the  voice  of  many  waters  and  as  the 
voice  of  a  great  thunder." 

From  the  Barreira  we  ascend  b}'  zigzags  to  the  uplands,  where 
is  situated  the  former  fazenda  of  Mr.  March.  His  residence — 
80  often  visited  by  Langsdorf,  the  celebrated  Eussian  voyager, 
Burchell,  the  African  traveller,  and  Gardner,  the  botanist — is  now 
to  be  numbered  among  the  things  that  were;  for  the  spirit  of 
enterprise  and  money-making  has  laid  out  in  this  elevated  valley 
a  new  resort  for  the  Fluminenses,  and  speculation  in  town-lots 
among  the  Organ  Mountains  was  rife  as  1  left  the  shores  of  Brazil. 
I  hope  that  it  ma}'  prove  a  successful  enterprise;  for  here  the 
wearied  and  jaded  irom  the  city  will  find  coolness,  salubrity,  and 
quiet  in  the  midst  of  the  most  imposing  scenery. 

Before  reaching  March's  and  the  former  mountain-home  of  Mr. 
H n,  (whose  hospitality  many  a  visitor  to  Brazil  will  have  occa- 
sion to  remember,)  we  climb  along  the  very  sides  of  one  of  the  most 
precipitous  of  the  Organ-pipes.  Hence  is  a  view  of  commanding 
extent, — of  mountain,  plain,  bay,  and  ocean, — embracing,  it  is  said, 
a  panorama  of  more  than  two  hundred  miles  in  circumference,  in 
the  midst  of  which,  though  distant,  the  capital  of  the  Empire  is 
seen  gleaming  amid  its  verdant  and  lofty  environs.  The  point 
for  beholding  this  landscape  is  appropriately  called  Boa  Vista, 
("beautiful  view.")  So  enraptured  was  the  Eev.  Charles  N. 
Stewart  with  the  grandeur  of  the  scene,  that  he  doubts  if — in  its 
combination  of  mountain,  valley,  and  water — it  has  a  rival;   and. 


280  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

adds  that,  in  his  Avide  experience  in  various  continents,  he  onl}' 
remembers  one  other  prospect  that  approximates  to  it, — viz. :  the 
pass  "  through  the  mountains  of  Granada,  followed  by  the  first 
view  of  the  '  Vega,'  with  the  city,  the  Myalls,  and  the  towers  of  the 
Alhambra,  and  the  snow-covered  heights  of  the  Nevada  above  all, 
gloriously  lighted  by  the  glowing  hues  of  the  setting  sun." 

At  the  elevation  of  Boa  Vista  the  climate  is  very  much  cooler 
than  at  Eio.  In  the  month  of  June  the  thermometer  has  been 
known  to  foil  as  low  as  32°  Fahrenlveit  just  before  daybreak;  but 
this  is  rare :  40°  in  the  morning  and  70°  in  the  warmest  portion 
of  the  day  is  the  winter  regime;  and,  in  the  summer,  60°  and  80° 
are  the  two  extremes.  In  January  and  February,  (the  July  and 
August  of  the  Southern  tropics,)  violent  thunder-storms  often 
occur, — generally  in  the  afternoon, — and  then  pass  over,  leaving 
the  evening  delightfully  cool. 

Here  and  at  Constancia  nearly  all  the  European  fruits  and  vege- 
tables thrive ;  and,  as  at  Madeira  and  Teneriifo,  the  apple  and  the 
orange,  the  pear  and  the  banana,  the  vine  and  the  coffee-plant, 
may  be  seen  growing  side  by  side.  Mr.  Heath  receives  quite  an 
income  from  the  productions  of  his  vegetable-gardens ;  and,  at  Rio, 
the  fine  cauliflower,  (so  difficult  of  cultivation  in  the  tropics,)  the 
best  asparagus,  and  most  of  the  artichokes,  peas,  carrots,  &c.  come 
from  Constancia,  and  are  esteemed  as  rare  in  that  land  as  the 
carefully-cultivated  hothouse  pineapple  in  England.  Two  English 
shillings  per  head  are  given  for  the  largest  Constancia  cauliflower 
at  Eio.  This  kind  of  garden,  it  has  seemed  to  me,  might  be  in- 
creased in  number  in  the  upper  region  of  the  Serra,  where  are 
many  fertile  little  valleys,  all  well  irrigated  by  small  streams  of 
cool  and  limpid  water.  If  they  could  be  managed  with  the  care, 
industr}'',  and  perseverance  which  Mr.  Heath  has  brought  to  bear 
upon  such  cultivation,  they  could  not  but  bring  a  lucrative  return 
to  their  proprietors,  and  would  confer  a  great  benefit  upon  the 
growing  city  of  Eio  de  Janeiro. 

Like  the  mountains  of  Tijuca  and  the  curious  elevations  around 
Eio,  the  whole  of  the  Organ  range  consists  of  granite.  The  alluvial 
soil  is  very  deep  and  rich  in  the  valleys,  and  underneath  it  exists 
the  same  red-colored,  slaty,  ferrugineous  clay  which  is  so  common 
throughout  Brazil. 


The  Altitude  of  the  Mountains. 


281 


The  scenery  becomes  more  tame  as  we  leave  Boa  Vista,  and  wo 
seem  to  be  far  removed  from  the  climate  of  the  plains,  though 
around  us  the  palms,  ferns,  cacti,  tillandsias,  &c.  tell  us  that  we  are 
not  beyond  the  limits  of  Capricorn.  Creeping  and  drooping  i)lants, 
bright  flowers  and  foliage,  still  abound.  Occasionally,  howling 
monkeys  hold  a  noisy  caucus  over  your  head,  or  a  flock  of  bright 


THE     ORGAN      MOUNTAINS. 


parrots  glides  swiftly  over  the  tall  and  gracefull3^-bending  bamboos, 
which  are  a  distinctive  feature  in  the  landscape.  This  giant  of  the 
gras.s-tribe  has  frequently  been  found  in  these  mountains  from 
eighty  to  one  hundred  feet  in  height  and  eighteen  inches  in  dia- 
meter. They  do  not,  however,  grow  perpendicularly,  nor  often 
singly,  but,  in  vast  groups,  shoot  up  fifty  and  sixty  feet,  and  then 
curve  gently  downward,  forming  most  cool  and  beautiful  domes. 

As  we  look  back,  we  have  a  view  of  the  Organ-pipes,  and  the 
aspect  which  they  present  is  entirely  diff'erent  from  that  ragged, 


282  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

pointed,  and  diminutive  appearance  which  they  show  when  seen 
from  the  bay.  From  our  nearness  and  our  altitude  they  seem  like 
sharp  naked  mountains  rising  above  a  sea  of  foliage.  The  range 
from  which  they  are  detached  is  still  more  lofty,  and  is  most 
massive  in  its  character.  Few  persons  have  ascended  these  moun- 
tains, and  those  have  either  been  naturalists  or  daring  hunters. 
Dr.  Gardner  made  probably  the  most  thorough  scientific  explora- 
tion, and  up  these  heights  Heath  has  often  pursued  the  clumsy 
tapir  or  the  lithe  jaguar.  The  sloth,  howling  monkej'S,  the  Bra- 
zilian otter,  a  little  deer,  {Cervus  nemorivagus,)  and  two  kinds  of 
peccari,  may  still  prove  attractions  to  the  naturalist  and  the  sports- 
man; but  every  year  they  are  becoming  more  rare.  Of  birds  there 
are  many  varieties,  remarkable  for  their  brilliant  plumage,  and  a 
few  are  much  sought  after  for  their  delicacy,  the  jacu  and  jacuti ng a 
being  the  most  esteemed. 

The  difficulties  of  the  ascension  of  these  mountains  consist  of 
the  thickets  of  underwood,  the  sex'ried  ranks  of  great  ferns  and 
trailing  bamboos,  in  addition  to  the  steepness  of  the  Serra.  The 
paths  of  the  tapir,  however,  render  the  undertaking  much  more 
feasible  than  it  otherwise  would  be.  Dr.  Gai'dner,  after  two 
attempts, — the  latter  made  several  years  after  the  first, — attained 
the  highest  summit  of  the  range.  These  mountains — known  in 
geographies  as  a  portion  of  the  Brazilian  Andes,  the  Serra  do  Mar, 
and  the  Organ  Mountains — have  been  variously  estimated  to  pos- 
sess an  altitude  ranging  from  five  thousand  seven  hundred  feet  up 
to  eight  thousand  feet.  The  naturalist  mentioned  above  made  the 
only  calculations  of  their  height  that  have  come  under  my  observa- 
tion ;  and,  though  they  are  only  approximate,  I  give  them,  in  this 
note,  as  interesting  from  the  manner  in  which  he  reached  his  con- 
clusions. According  to  him,  the  elevation  of  the  highest  peak  is 
seven  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.* 


*  In  the  first  ascent,  Dr  Gardner  accidentally  broke  his  barometer  before  he  had 
made  a  single  observation ;  but,  when  on  hi^  last  excursion  he  attained  the  highest 
summit,  with  the  aid  of  the  thermofheter  he  made  the  estimate  in  the  manner  thus 
recorded: — "At  mid-day  the  thermometer  indicated  64°  in  the  shade,  and  I  found 
that  water  boiled  at  a  heat  of  198°  ;  from  which  I  estimate  the  height  of  the  moun- 
tain above  the  sea-level  to  be  7800  feet.      A  register  of  the  thermometer — kept 


CONSTANCIA. 


283 


From  March's  an  hour's  brisk  trotting  will  bring  us  within  sight 
of   Constancia.      Mr.  Heath,    when    expecting   guests,    is   almost 


%^J^ 


HEATH'S,     (CONSTANCIA.) 


sure  to  meet  them  at  an  inner  gate  of  his  estate,  about  a  half-mile 
from  his  residence,  the  main  building  of  which  rises  from  the  midst 


during  our  stay  in  the  upper  regions  of  the  Serra  and  observed  on  the  level  of 
Mr.  March's  fazenda  —  gave  a  mean  difference  of  temperature  between  the  two 
places  of  12°  5''.  Baron  Humboldt  estimates  the  mean  decrement  of  heat  within 
the  tropics  at  1°  for  every  344  feet  of  elevation,  and  considers  this  ratio  as  uniform 
up  to  the  height  of  8000  feet,  beyond  which  it  is  reduced  to  three-fifths  of  that 
quantity,  as  far  as  the  elevation  of  20,000  feet.  It  has,  however,  since  been  found 
that,  in  general,  the  effect  of  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  in  diminishing 
temperature,  is,  in  all  latitudes,  nearly  in  proportion  to  the  height,  the  decrement 
being  P  of  heat  for  every  352  feet  of  altitude:  this  would  give  4400  feet  for  the 
elevation  of  the  highest  peak  of  the  Organ  Mountains  above  Mr.  March's  fazenda; 
and,  as  this  is  3100  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  we  have  for  the  total  greatest 
elevation  7500  feet.'' — Gardner's  Travels  in  Brazil,  second  edition,  p.  405 


284  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

of  the  little  cottages  like  a  huge  Bernese  chalet.  The  smaller 
buildings  are  filled,  in  the  summer-time,  with  boarders  who  come 
up  to  enjoy  the  cool  air  of  Constancia  and  the  bracing  douche  of 
the  cascade  which  rushes  down  from  the  hill  opposite.  In  this 
quiet  cul-de-sac  the  Northerner  is  reminded,  by  the  moss-roses  and 
violets,  of  his  own  far-off  land  in  springtime.  Not  far  from  the 
front-door,  as  we  approach  the  main  edifice,  is  a  large  clump  of 
roses  of  a  diminutive  kind,  growing  in  wild  profusion.  The  tube- 
rose, the  CajDC  jessamine,  and  the  delicate  heliotroj^e,  fill  the  air 
with  sweets;  and  these  and  the  arbors,  with  their  honeysuckles, 
attract  the  tiny  humming-birds,  who  sparkle  in  the  sunshine  like 
winged  emeralds  of  richest  hue. 

Who  that  has  been  to  Constancia  will  forget  the  material  com- 
forts with  which  Heath  surrounds  one?  It  is  one  of  the  few  resorts 
for  health  and  recreation  that  I  have  visited  where  the  proprietor 
seems  more  like  a  host  entertaining  his  friends  than  a  landlord 
fleecing  his  boarders.  His  anecdotes  keep  up  a  constant  cheer- 
fulness, while  his  adventures  among  the  forests  and  the  mountains 
of  Brazil  are  full  of  instruction.  He  accompanied  Gardner  on 
many  of  his  excursions,  and  has  been  a  perfect  Nimrod.  When 
the  felis-onga  abounded,  the  neighbors  were  sure  to  send  for  Heath 
to  avenge  depredations  upon  their  folds;  and  many  a  well-sent 
bullet  from  his  rifle  has  brought  the  beautiful  jaguar — the  monarch 
of  the  feline  tribe  in  the  Western  World — to  terms,  which  no  troops 
of  hounds  or  Brazilian  guns  could  have  effected.  He  informed  me 
that  many  years  ago  his  first  visit  to  Constancia  was  in  hunting 
the  tapir  which  had  made  such  havoc  in  the  fields  of  Indian  corn 
belonging  to  M.iivcW b  fazenda,  of  which  he  was  then  the  major-domo. 
The  number  of  these  huge  animals  that  he  has  in  former  years 
killed  in  one  season  at  Constancia  has  been  thirty-two.  This  was 
merely  in  the  line  of  duty;  for,  if  he  had  made  a  business  of  it, 
he  could  have  "bagged"  more  tapirs,  jaguars,  peccari,  &c.  in  one 
year  than  ever  Gordon  Cumming  or  Gerard  did  of  their  giant 
game  in  the  wilds  of  Kaffraria  or  Algeria.     (Heath  died  in  1864.) 

It  has  often  been  a  subject  of  wonder  to  me  that  of  the  tapir, 
the  largest  animal  of  South  America,  so  little  should  be  known.  It 
also  derives  an  interest  from  the  fact  that,  though  one  of  its  species 
exists  in  the  Old  World,  it  was  not  discovered  until  long  after  the 


The  American  Tapir. 


285 


Tapir  Amerkanus ;  for  the  Malay  tapir,  differing  but  little  from  its 
Occidental  congener,  was  never  described  until  the  governorship 
of  Sir  Stamford  Raffles  in  Java. 

The  tapir  forms  one  of  the  connecting-links  between  the  ele- 
phant and  the  hog.  Its  snout  is  lengthened  into  a  kind  of  pro- 
boscis, and,  with  the  exception  of  the  trunk  of  the  elephant,  which 
it  resembles,  is  the  longest  nasal  appendage  belonging  to  any 
quadruped.  It  is,  however,  devoid  of  that  clever  little-finger  with 
which  nature  has  enriched  the  trunk  of  the  land-leviathan.  This 
curious  animal  has  many  fossil  relatives,  but  on\j  three  living 
species  (two  of  them  belonging  to  South  America)  have  as  yet 
been  discovered. 


T  H  E  ■  TA  P  I  R. 


The  tapir  is  extensively  distributed  over  South  America  east  of 
the  Andes,  but  especially  abounds  in  the  tropical  portions.  It 
seems  to  be  a  nocturnal  vegetarian, — sleeping  during  the  day,  and, 
sallying  forth  at  night,  feeds  upon  the  young  shoots  of  trees,  buds, 
wild  fruits,  maize,  &c.  &c.  It  is  of  a  deep-brown  color  throughout, 
approaching-  to  black,  between  three  and  four  feet  in  height,  and 
from  five  to  six  in  length.  The  hair  of  the  body,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  mane,  is  scanty,  and  so  closely  depressed  to  the  surface 
that  it  is  scarcely  perceived  at  a  short  distance.     Its  muscular 


286  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

power  is  enormous;  and  this,  with  the  tough,  thick  hide  (ahiiost 
impervious  to  musket-ball)  which  defends  its  body,  enables  it  to 
tear  through  thickets  in  whatever  direction  it  chooses.  The  jaguar 
frequently  springs  upon  it,  but  is  often  dislodged  by  the  activity 
of  the  tapir,  who  rushes  through  the  bushes  and  underwood  and 
endeavors  to  brush  off  his  enemy  against  the  thick  branches.  Its 
ordinary  pace  is  a  sort  of  trot;  but  it  sometimes  gallops,  though 
awkwardly  and  with  the  head  down.  It  is  very  fond  of  the  water, 
and  high  up  on  the  Organ  Mountains  are  pools  where  it  delights 
to  wallow.  Its  disposition  is  peaceful,  and,  if  not  attacked,  it  will 
neither  molest  man  nor  beast;  but,  when  set  upon  by  the  hunter's 
dogs,  it  can  inflict  terrible  bites.  ]\Ir.  Heath  informed  me  that  each 
time  it  seizes  a  dog  with  its  teeth  the  flesh  is  cut  completely  from 
the  bone  of  the  canine  intruder.  The  flesh  of  the  tapir  is  dry,  and 
is  often  eaten  by  the  Indians  of  the  interior,  by  whom  it  is  hunted 
with  spears  and  poisoned  arrows.  It  takes  to  the  water,  and  is 
not  only  a  good  swimmer,  but  appears  almost  amphibious,  being 
enabled  to  sustain  itself  a  long  time  beneath  the  surface:  hence  it 
has  sometimes  been  called  Hippopotamus  terrestris.  The  largest 
which  Mr.  Heath  ever  shot  weighed  fourteen  Portuguese  arrobas, 
(about  four  hundred  and  fifty  pounds,)  though  doubtless  much  larger 
exist  in  the  Amazonian  regions.  Naturalists  divide  the  American 
tapir  into  two  species, — that  of  the  lowlands  and  that  of  the  moun- 
tains,— the  latter,  found  on  eastern  slopes  of  the  Andes,  diff'ering 
but  little  from  the  one  alread}"  depicted  and  described. 

The  peccari  is  often  met  with  in  the  woods  of  Brazil ;  and  this 
little  native  swine  is  the  most  pugnacious  fellow  imaginable. 
Neither  men  nor  dogs  inspire  reverence;  for  he  will  attack  both 
with  impunity.  It  is  gregarious  in  its  habits,  and  will,  with  its 
companions,  charge  most  vehemently,  no  matter  how  great  the 
odds.  It  is,  I  believe,  one  of  the  very  few  animals  that  has  no 
fear  of  the  detonation  of  fire-arms. 

There  are  many  beautiful  and  secluded  walks  and  rides  in  the 
vicinity  of  Constancia,  and  frequently  Mr.  Heath  accompanies  his 
guests  in  the  wild  and  romantic  spots  which  here  abound.  I  once 
climbed  with  two  companions  to  the  top  of  the  mountain  seen  on  the 
right  in  the  sketch  of  Constancia,  (page  283;)  and,  though  I  have 
made   many   ascensions   among  the  Alps    and  the  Apennines,   I 


Todd's  "Student's  Maxual"— The  "Happy  Valley."  287 

have  never  experienced  so  much  fatigue  and  difficulty  as  on  that 
occasion.  We  were  the  first,  with  one  exception,  to  stand  upon 
that  height  and  behold  the  wondrous  view  around.  I  afterward 
made  a  sketch  of  the  Organ  Mountains  at  a  point  some  miles  dis- 
tant from  Heath's,  and  where  the  peaks  presented  the  appearance 
of  iri'egular  saw-teeth;  and  I  could  then  appreciate  better  than 
before  the  Spanish  and  Portuguese  terms  (Sena  and  Sierra, — a  saw) 
for  mountains. 

The  sketch  alluded  to  (though  not  engraved)  was  made  on  the 
fly-leaf  of  a  book  which  I  reread  in  the  Serra  dos  OrgSos,  and  which 
lias  since  circumnavigated  with  me  the  Continent  of  South  Ame- 
rica. That  book  was  an  English  edition  of  Todd's  ''Student's 
Manual," — a  work  which  delighted  my  boj'hood,  which  gave  me 
new  resolution  in  college,  and  whose  cheerful  style,  beautiful  illus- 
trations, and  healthy  thought  cause  it  to  be  a  most  agreeable  com- 
panion when  no  longer  under  tutors  and  governors. 

Mr.  Heath  once  took  our  company,  through  a  little  belt  of  forest, 
to  a  valley  not  more  than  two  miles  distant  from  Constancia. 
From  the  edge  of  the  woods  we  looked  down  upon  a  dell  whose 
narrow  end  was  next  to  us.  Bej'ond,  on  either  side  of  the  moun- 
tain-spurs Avhich  formed  the  valley,  were  the  dark-green  coffee- 
trees  and  the  pretty  shrubs  of  the  Chinese  tea-plant.  Far  beneath 
us,  almost  embowered  amid  giant  bananeiras  and  orange-trees,  we 
perceived  the  red  tiles  of  a  cottage.  We  descended  by  a  little 
path  to  this  half-hidden  habitation,  and  were  introduced  to  the  pro- 
prietors, two  Swiss,  brothers,  who,  after  having  served  in  the  Eng- 
lish army,  retired  upon  a  good  pension,  and  here,  in  quiet,  were 
enjoj'ing  life  in  one  of  the  healthiest  and  most  delightful  places  upon 
the  earth.  The  elder  brother  had  not  been  to  the  city  for  eighteen 
years.  He  had  visited  the  United  States  when  a  younger  man,  but 
only  that  portion  which  constitutes  the  noi-thern  border  of  New 
York.  While  we  were  conversing  with  them,  a  flock  of  wild  par- 
rots came  swooping  into  the  ojDen  windows,  screaming  with  delight 
as  they  ate  the  sunflower-seeds  which  these  benevolent  old  bachelors 
had  scattered  for  them.  The  edges  of  the  co^ee-terreno  (where 
the  berries  are  spread  out  to  dry)  were  lined  with  large  orange- 
trees,  whose  boughs  bent  downward  with  their  golden  burden; 
running  roses  had  festooned  themselves  upon  shrubs,  trees,  and 


288  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

outhouses,  diffusing  grateful  fragrance  from  the  thick  clusters  of 
buds  and  blossoms;  purling  brooks  mingled  their  noisj-,  gleesome 
music  with  the  more  softened  cadence  of  a  distant  waterfall,  and 
the  whole  scene  had  so  much  of  peace  and  felicity  pervading  it, 
that  the  "  Happy  Yalley"  of  Dr.  Johnson's  imagination  seemed 
here  to  find  its  counterj)art  in  reality. 

I  paid  many  pleasant  visits  to  this  pretty  spot,  and  the  lovely 
valley  grew  upon  me  by  the  hour.  In  the  cottage  of  the  two 
Swiss  I  found  the  best  current  periodicals,  in  French,  German, 
English,  and  Portuguese,  all  of  which  languages  they  speak  with 
fluency.  The  contrast  was,  however,  most  striking,  as  we  con- 
versed about  Grindenwald,  Martigny,  the  Eiga,  and  the  shores  of 
Lake  Leman,  (accurate  paintings  of  which  hung  on  the  walls,) 
and  then  looked  forth  upon  a  landscape  of  perennial  bloom  and  of 
unchanging  verdure.  They  took  me  to  their  garden,  where  they 
were,  for  their  pleasure,  cultivating  moss-roses  (which  grow  with 
difficulty  in  Brazil)  and  vines  brought  from  the  warmer  parts  of 
their  native  Switzerland. 

During  one  of  my  visits  they  informed  me  that  they  had  pur- 
chased this  plantation  from  a  gentleman  now  residing  in  the  State 
of  Indiana,  and  they  were  equally  surprised  when  I  informed  them 
that  that  State  was  my  terre  natale.  They  had  kept  up  an  active 
correspondence  with  the  former  proprietor,  whom  they  represented 
as  a  lover  of  music  and  Goethe,  but  that  since  1849  they  had  re- 
ceived no  intelligence  from  him,  and  they  feared  that  he  had  fallen 
victim  to  the  cholera,  which  had  swept  through  the  Mississippi 
Valle}'  during  the  year  mentioned.  They  desired  me  to  write  to  a 
friend  to  see  if  Mr.  E.  were  dead  or  alive:  accordingly,  I  wrote  to 
one  of  the  professors  of  South  Hanover  College,  Indiana;  and  my 
correspondent  ascertained  that  Mr.  E.  was  still  in  the  land  of  the 
livine;.  Professor  T.  visited  him,  and  found  Mr.  E.  a  venerable 
German  of  more  than  threescore  years  and  ten;  but  his  love  for 
music  had  not  abated,  and  he  was  ready  to  battle  for  Goethe  at  a 
moment's  notice.  He  had  not  forgotten  his  friends  in  Brazil,  but, 
from  some  cause  unknown,  had  not  written  to  them ;  and  hence 
their  apprehensions.  When,  however,  he  heard  the  description  of 
the  "Happy  Yalley"  in  the  sunny  land  of  the  Southern  Cross,  the 
vision  of  its  roses,  golden  fruits,  fadeless  green,  and  murmuring 


Prosaic  Conclusion.  289 

brooks  came  so  vividly  before  him,  that,  aged  as  he  was,  his  youth 
seemed  renewed,  and  he  resolved  to  return  once  more  to  that  which 
was  his  first  and  beautiful  home  in  the  New  World.  I  know  not 
if  he  carried  his  resolution  into  effect,  but  I  can  readily  imagine 
how  powerfully  one  may  be  stirred  up  by  the  memory  of  beauty 
which  is  inseparable  from  that  peaceful  dale  in  the  Serra  dus 
Orgoes. 

In  July,  1865,  I  again  visited  the  "Happy  Yalley,"  at  the  invi- 
tation of  the  elder  brother,  whom  I  found  a  cheerful  hale  man  of 
seventy-three.  The  younger  brother  spent  the  last  year  (1857)  of 
his  life  in  an  attempt  to  plant  a  colony  near  Theresopolis,  a  town 
built  since  1855  on  March's  old  plantation.  Mr.  Einke  never  re- 
turned to  Brazil:  in  1860  he  visited  the  haunts  of  Goethe  and 
Schiller,  and  died  at  Lucerne,  Switzerland,  from  a  cold  caught 
while  making  a  pilgrimage  to  the  scenes  of  Schiller's  ''  Wilhelm 
Tell."  The  "  Happy  Valley  "  has  lost  none  of  its  loveliness.  Long 
may  Sr.  Fischer  live  to  enjoy  it! 

In  one  of  my  early  walks  on  Heath's  plantation,  I  was  very 
much  struck  with  a  tall  tree  that  shot  up  near  the  pathway.  Its 
trunk  was  a  little  inclined, — otherwise  remarkably  straight;  but  its 
chief  attraction  was  the  long  and  venerable  moss  which  hung  from 
the  wide-spreading  branches  and  was  gently  swayed  by  the  per- 
fume-laden morning-breeze.  I  sat  down  to  sketch  it,  and  while 
thus  engaged  I  was  startled  by  a  load  chattering;  and  in  an 
instant  a  flock  of  brilliantly-colored  birds,  in  curious  flight,  came 
from  the  neighboring  wood  and  alighted  upon  the  solitary  tree. 
Though  their  motion  on  the  wing  was  exceedingly  clumsy,  they 
were  most  nimble  as  they  leaped  from  limb  to  limb.  They  kept 
up  a  continual  chattering,  as  if  they  had  met  together  to  arrange 
their  plans  for  the  day.  I  soon  perceived  that,  notwithstanding 
their  brilliant  plumage,  which  made  the  lofty  tree  seem  laden  with 
large  golden  oranges,  they  were  as  uncouth  in  appearance  as  they 
had  been  awkward  in  flight.  Their  bill  was  appai'ently  of  most  dis- 
p-'oportionate  length,  which  did  not,  however,  hinder  their  active 
movements  among  the  gnarled  branches  and  pendent  moss.  Pre- 
sently, having  settled  upon  their  arrangements  for  the  day,  they 
took  a  unanimous  vote,  which  was  uttered  in  such  a  viva  voce  scream 
that  the  very  mountains  resounded  with  wild,  unearthly  notes 

19 


290 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


This  was  my  first  acquaintance  with  the  toucan,  which  in  its 
appearance  is  one  of  the  most  eccentric  members  of  the  feathered 
tribe.  The  feathers  of  the  breast  of  the  ramphastos  dicolorvs  are 
of  the  most  brilliant  orange,  chrome,  and  deep-rose  colors,  and 
form  a  jirominent  feature  in  the  feather-dresses  and  ornaments  of 
the  wild  Indians  of  the  interior.  In  the  sixteenth  century  the 
''high-born"  dames  of  the  courts  of  Europe  esteemed  as  their  most 


THE     MOSS-COVERED     TREE. 


gorgeous  and  picturesque  robes  those  trimmed  with  the  breast- 
feathers  of  the  toucan.  Its  tongue  is  long,  stiff,  and  is  tij)ped  and 
edged  with  little,  hairlike  feathers.  It  has  a  singular  manner  of 
taking  its  food.  I  have  watched  one  in  a  tame  state  eating  Indian 
com;  and  it  would  take  one  grain  in  its  huge  bill,  throw  up  its 
head,  elevating  its  long  appendage,  and  by  a  series  of  quick  jeiks 
the  grain  would  be  tossed  along  the  stiff  tongue  into  the  throat. 


The  Toucan. 


291 


The  toucan  belongs  to  climbing-birds,  and  is  classed  with  par- 
rots, woodpeckers,  and  cuckoos.  Its  foot,  provided  with  two  toes 
in  front  and  two  behind,  is  admirably  adapted  to  the  purposes  of 
climbing  and  clinging.  Its  bill  is  by  no  means  solid,  and  might 
be  termed  honey-combed  in  its  structure,  and  hence  is  light.  This 
long  and  heavy -looking  instrument  seems  to  be  very  sensitive  and 
well  supplied  w4th  nerves,  as  its  ow^ner  may  be  often  seen  scratch- 
ing the  curious  organ  with  its  foot. 

Waterton  speaks  of  one  species  of  the  toucan  in  Northern  Brazil 
(the  toucans  are  only  found  in  Tropical  America)  which  ''seems  to 
suppose  that  its  beauty  can  be  increased  by  trimming  his  tail, 
which  undergoes  the  same  operation  as  our  hair  in  a  barber's  shoj); 
only  with  this  difference, — that  it  uses  its  own  beak  (which  is  ser- 
rated) in  lieu  of  a  pair  of  scissors.  As  soon  as  his  tail  is  full- 
grown,  he  begins  about  an  inch 
from  the  extremity  of  the  two 
longest  feathers  in  it,  and  cuts 
away  the  web  on  both  sides  of 
the  shaft,  making  a  gap  about 
an  inch  long:  both  male  and 
female  adorn  their  tails  in  this 
maxiner,  which  gives  them  a  re- 
markable appearance  amongst 
all  other  birds." 

The  toucan  is  a  most  grotesque 
specimen  of  ornithology,  and  the 
Aracari,  (Pteroglossus,)  with  his 
huge  bill  and  goggle-eyes,  ap- 
pears like  a  melancholy  Jaquea, 
or  a  spectacled  German  idealist, 

who  has  banished  himself  far  from  the  haunts  of  men,  to  speculate 
on  the  miseries  of  human  nature  and  the  exalted  excellence  of  the 


THE     TOUCAN. 


'  "populous  solitude  of  bees  and  birds 

And  fairy-form'd  and  many-color'd  things." 

The  student  of  natural  history  can  find  much  to  gratify  him  in 
the  Organ  Mountains.  There  are  many  beautifully-colored  snakes, 
(only  a  few  of  which  are  very  venomous,)  a  vast  variety  of  lizards, 


292  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

curious  frogs  and  toads, — as  some  one  has  remarked, — from  the 
small  tree-kind,  not  more  than  an  inch  long,  to  those  marsh  ones 
which  are  nearly'  large  enough  to  fill  a  hat.  Beautiful  butterflies 
vie  with  the  flowers  which  from  time  to  time  they  taste,  or  their 
brilliant  wings  are  reflected  from  the  small  pools  on  whose  banks 
they  alight  in  countless  numbers.  Large  wasp-nests  as  well  as 
tropical  leaves  adorn  the  branches  of  trees.  In  some  places,  beetles 
like  gems  attach  themselves  to  the  foliage  and  flowers  of  low 
shrubs,  and  at  night  the  air  is  liglited  up  with  fire-flies  which 
Gardner  compares,  in  brilliancy,  to  "stars  that  have  fallen  from 
the  finnament  and  are  floating  about  without  a  resting-place." 

One  evening  I  walked  from  Ileath's  toward  the  "Happy  Yalley," 
but,  not  prolonging  my  promenade  far  in  that  direction,  I  entered 
a  forest  and  pursued  my  way  to  the  edge  of  a  pi*ecipice,  or  rather 
a  crater-like  hollow  whose  centre  was  a  thousand  feet  below  me 
and  whose  sides  were  covered  with  trees.  The  night  was  dark, 
and  it  had  fallen  so  suddenly  after  the  brief  twilight,  that,  so  far  as 
anticipation  was  concerned,  I  was  unprepared  for  it.  Before  re- 
tracing my  steps  I  stood  for  a  few  moments  looking  down  into  the 
Cimmerian  blackness  of  the  gulf  beneath  me;  and,  while  thus 
gazing,  a  luminous  mass  seemed  to  start  from  the  \evy  centre.  I 
watched  it  as  it  floated  up,  revealing,  in  its  slow  flight,  the  long 
leaves  of  the  Euterpe  edulis  and  the  minuter  foliage  of  other  trees. 
It  came  directly  toward  me,  lighting  up  the  gloom  around  with  its 
three  luminosities,  which  I  could  now  distinctly  see.  This  was  the 
pyrophorus  noctilucus,  so  well  known  to  every  traveller  in  the 
Antilles  and  in  Tropical  America.  It  is  of  an  obscure,  blackish 
brown,  and  the  body  is  everywhere  covered  with  a  short,  light- 
brown  pubescence.  When  it  walks  or  is  at  rest,  the  principal  light 
it  emits  issues  from  the  two  yellow  tubercles;  but,  when  the  wings 
are  expanded  in  the  act  of  flight,  another  luminous  spot  is  dis- 
closed in  the  hinder  part  of  the  abdomen.  These  luminosities — sup- 
posed to  be  phosphoric  in  their  composition — are  so  considerable 
that  the  fire-fly  is  often  employed  in  the  countries  where  it  prevails 
as  a  substitute  for  artificial  light. 

In  the  mountains  of  Tijuca  I  have  read  the  finest  print  of  "Har- 
per's Magazine"  by  the  light  of  one  of  these  natural  lamps  placed 
under  a  common  glass  tumbler,  and  with  distinctness  I  could  tell 


The  Fire-Fly  and  the  Iguana.  293 

the  hour  of  the  night,  and  discern  the  very  small  figures  which 
marked  the  seconds  of  a  little  Swiss  watch.  The  Indians  formerly 
used  them  instead  of  flambeaux  in  their  hunting  and  fishing  expedi- 
tions; and  when  travelling  in  the  night  the}'  are  accustomed  to 
fasten  them  to  their  feet  and  hands.  In  some  parts  of  the  tropics 
they  are  used  by  the  senhoritas  for  adorning  their  tresses,  or  their 
robes,  by  fastening  them  within  a  thin  gauze-work;  and  through 
them  their  bearers  become  indeed  "bright  particular  stars."  It 
was  of  this  fire-fly  (which  resembles,  in  every  thing  but  color,  the 
"snapping-bug"  of  the  Mississippi  Valley)  that  Mr.  Prescott,  in  his 
"Conquest  of  Mexico,"  narrates  the  terror  which  they  inspired  in 
the  Spaniards  in  1520.  "The  air  was  filled  with  'cocuyos,' 
{pyrophorus  noctilucus,)  a  species  of  large  beetle  which  emits  an 
intense  phosphoric  light  fi'om  its  body,  strong 
enough  to  enable  one  to  read  by  it.  These 
wandering  fires,  seen  in  the  darkness  of  the 
night,  were  converted  by  the  besieged  into  an 
army  with  matchlocks."  Such  is  the  report 
of  an  eye-witness, — old  Bernal  Diaz.  the  brilliant  fire-fly. 

In  one  of  my  rides  toward  Cant  a  Gallo,  I 
saw  in  the  road  the  large  lizard  called  the  iguana.  There  is  nothing 
to  me  disgusting  in  this  clean-looking  reptile,  whose  skin,  composed 
of  bright,  small  scales,  resembles  the  finest  bead- work.  I  had  often 
seen  them  at  Rio  spitted  and  hawked  about  the  city;  for  the  flesh 
is  esteemed  a  great  delicacy, — resembling  in  its  appearance  and 
taste  that  bonne  bouche  for  epicures,  a  frog's  hind-leg.  The  usual  pic- 
tures of  the  iguana  do  not  render  it  full  justice;  they  represent  it 
as  horrid  in  appearance  as  the  imaginary  baleful-breathed,  javelin- 
tongued  dragon  fi-om  which  good  St.  George  delivered  so  many 
devoted  virgins.  The  iguana  is  from  three  to  five  feet  in  length, 
and  is  oviparous.  A  lady  member  of  my  family  possessed  cue 
which  was  a  great  favorite,  and  she  has  kindly  furnished  me  with 
some  notes  on  her  pet.    I  insert  them  verbatim. 

"  Pedro  [the  iguana]  aff'orded  me  much  amusement.  From  his 
close  resemblance  to  the  snake-tribe,  it  was  difiicult  for  strangers 
to  rid  their  mind  of  the  impression  that  he  was  venomous.  Such 
is  not  the  case  with  iguanas.  Their  only  means  of  defence  is  their 
very  pow<irful  tail;  and  a  sportsman  told  me  that  he  has  had  a 


294 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


"dog's  ribs  laid  bare  by  a  stroke  of  an  iguana's  tail.  My  poor 
pet,  however,  was  not  warlike,  having  been  long  in  captivity.  He 
was  given  me  as  a  'Christmas-box'  by  a  friend,  and  soon  became 
tame  enough  to  go  at  liberty.  He  was  about  three  feet  long,  and 
subsisted  upon  raw  meat,  milk,  and  bananas.  He  had  a  basket  in 
my  room,  and  when  he  felt  the  weather  cool  would  take  refuge 
between  the  mattresses  of  my  bed.  There,  in  the  morning,  he 
would  be  found  in  all  possible  comfort.  One  evening  we  missed  him 
from  all  his  usual  hiding-places,  and  reluctantly  made  up  our  minds 
that  he  was  lost;  but,  on  rising  in  the  morning,  two  inches  of  his 
tail  hanging  out  of  the  pillow-case  told  where  he  had  passed  a 
snug  night  I  My  little  Spanish  poodle  and  he  were  sworn  foes. 
The  moment  Chico  made  his  appearance,  he  would  dash  forward  to 
bite  Pedro;  but  Chico  thought,  with  many  others,  that  'the  better 
part  of  valor  is  discretion.'  So  he  made  off  from  the  iguana  as 
fast  as  his  funny  legs  could  carry  him.  Then  Pedro  waddled  slowly 
back  to  the  sunny  spot  on  the  floor  and  closed  his  eyes  for  a  nap. 
When  the  winter  (a  winter  like  the  latter  part  of  a  Northern  May) 
began,  he  became  nearly  torpid,  and  remained  without  eating  for 
four  months.  He  would  now  and  then  sun  himself,  but  soon  re- 
turned to  his  blanket. 

"I  frequently  took  him  out  on  my  ai^m,  and  he  was  often  spe- 
cially invited;  but  I  cannot  say  that  he  was  much  caressed.  It 
was  in  vain  that  I  expatiated  on  his  beautiful  bead-like  spots  of 
black  and  white,   on  his   bright  jewel  eyes  and    elegant    claws. 

They      admired,     but 
_-_  kept  their  distance.    1 

had  a  sort  of  malicious 
pleasure  in  putting 
him  suddenly  down  at 
the  feet  of  the  stronger 
sex,  and  I  have  seen 
him  elicit  from  naval 
officers  more  symp- 
toms of  terror  than 
"would  have  been 
drawn  forth  by  an  enemy's  bi'oadside  or  a  lee  shore.  But,  alas 
for  the  'duration  of  lovely  things  I'     Dui'ing  the  summer-months 


THE     IGUANA. 


Tkavelling  Expenses.  295 

he  felt  his  old  forest-spirit  strong  within  him,  and  he  often  sallied 
forth  in  the  beautiful  paths  of  the  Gloria.  On  one  of  these  occa- 
sions he  met  a  marauding  Frenchman.  Pedro,  the  caressed  by  me 
and  the  feai-ed  by  others,  knew  no  terror.  The  ruflSan  struck  him 
to  the  earth.  It  was  in  vain  that  a  little  daughter  of  Consul  B.  tried 
to  save  him  b}'  crying,  ^11  est  a  Madame:'  another  blow  fractured 
his  skull  I  My  servant  ran  up  only  in  time  to  save  his  body  from 
an  ignominious  stew-pan;  but  life  was  extinct.  The  assassin  fled, 
and  Eose  came  back  with  my  poor  pet's  corpse.  On  my  return  he 
was  presented  to  view  with  his  long  forked  tongue  depending  from 
his  mouth.  He  was  sent,  wrapped  in  black  crape,  to  a  neighbor 
who  delighted  in  fricasseed  lizards,  but  who,  having  seen  him 
petted  and  caressed,  could  not  find  appetite  to  eat  him  ! 

"  Thus  ended  the  career  of  poor  Pedro,  after  a  life  of  pleasant 
captivity;  and  perhaps  it  might  be  said  of  him,  as  of  many  others, 
*He  was  more  feared  than  loved!'  " 

From  Constancia  to  Nova  Fribourgo,  or  Morro  Queimado,  is  a 
mountain  and  forest  path,  which  is  sometimes  taken  by  travellers 
who  wish  to  visit  the  villa  named  above.  The  route  most  frequently 
traversed  is  by  steamboat  from  Eio  de  Janeiro,  on  the  bay  as  far  as 
the  Macacu  Kiver,  and  up  this  stream  to  the  Engenho  de  Sampaio. 
Thence  we  may  go  by  carriage  or  mule-back  to  the  floiu-ishing 
town  of  Porto  das  Caixas,  which  is  the  general  rendezvous  for 
the  troops  of  mules  that  bring  coffee  and  sugars  from  the  Swiss 
colonies  of  Nova  Fribourgo  and  Canta  Gallo  and  a  large  section 
of  the  neighboring  country.  Here  are  also  debarked  the  good^ 
which  return  from  the  capital  in  exchange  for  produce. 

In  addition  to  its  commercial  importance,  it  is  distinguished  as 
the  family-residence  of  the  Visconde  de  Itaborahy,  (Senhor  Joaquim 
Jose  Eodrigues  Torres.)  The  traveller  will  here  find  a  very  goo  I 
hospedaria,  (inn,)  kept  by  a  Frenchman,  whose  prices,  though  not  so 
moderate  as  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  may,  with  other  expenses, 
1)0  interesting  to  voyageurs  who  may  come  after  me.  I  find  in  my 
note-book  the  following  entry  for  myself  and  companion: — 

"Hospedaria  de  M.  Boulanger. — Two  dinners,  two  candles,  two 
beds,  coffee  for  two,  two  breakfasts,  and  the  stabling  of  two  mules, 
— 7$200,"  (equal  to  about 'sixteen  English  shillings.) 

At  the  excellent  boarding-house  of  Mr.  Lowenroth,  at  Nova 


296  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Fribourgo,  you  pay  2$  (one  dollar)  per  diem  for  every  thing.  At 
Canta  Gallo,  thirty  miles  farther  in  the  interior,  I  paid  6$000  (thir- 
teen and  sixpence  English)  per  diem,  for  myself,  guide,  and  three 
mules.  At  Pedro  Schott's,  (a  regular  Tete  noire  chalet  of  rude  con- 
struction,) situated  in  a  wild,  secluded  spot  half-way  between  the 
bay  and  Nova  Fribourgo,  for  two  dinners,  two  beds,  two  lights,  and 
the  stabling  of  two  mules, — 4$500,  (ten  shillings  twoi)ence.)  At 
Constancia  and  at  Petropolis  you  pay  4$000  (nine  shillings)  per 
diem,  the  price  of  a  first-class  hotel  in  the  United  States.  It  must 
be  remarked,  however,  that  wine  is  never  extra,  and,  as  this  is  ob- 
tained at  a  cheap  rate  direct  from  Lisbon  and  Oporto,  it  is  placed 
uj)on  every  table.  On  going  into  the  fertile  province  of  Minas- 
Geraes,  I  found  that  for  m^'self  and  company  we  were  charged  at 
Petropolis  16$000,  (nearly  nine  dollars,)  and  the  next  night  at  a 
little  inn  called  Eibeirao  we  paid  for  the  same  accommodations 
4$000,  (two  dollars  and  twenty  cents.)  Upon  the  sea-coast  I  have 
always  found  the  living  expensive  to  the  foreigner.  Farther  in  the 
interior  the  prices  diminish.  At  the  Ponta  do  Jundiahi,  in  the  pro- 
vince of  S.  Paulo,  dinner  for  myself  and  guide,  and  feed  for  three 
animals,  the  price  was  but  1$500  (three  shillings  and  fivepeuce  Eng- 
lish.) The  common  Brazilian  travels  at  a  rate  one-fourth  cheaper 
than  either  the  North  American  or  the  European.  He  rarely  stops 
at  the  hospedaria,  but,  when  he  considers  the  day's  journey  ended, 
whether  at  two  o'clock  p.m.  or  six  p.m.,  he  rides  under  a  rancho, 
gives  a  few  handfuls  of  milho  (maize)  to  his  mule,  and  afterward 
turns  him  out  to  pasture.  He  then — if  he  has  no  servant  with  him 
— joins  with  others  occupying  the  same  rancho,  smdfeijoes,  and  came 
secca,  greased  with  a  little  toucinho,  and  well  stiffened  with  farinha 
de  mandioca,  form  a  substantial  supper,  which  has  as  an  adjunct 
coffee,  red  Lisbon,  or  water  from  the  running  brook.  I  have  found 
sleep  as  sweet  on  a  raw  hide  spread  in  the  dust  of  a  rancho  as  in 
the  soft  bed  of  the  best  New  York  hotel.  The  ranchos  (mere  tile- 
covered  sheds)  are  found  all  over  the  country,  and,  like  the  cara- 
vanserais of  the  East,  are  often  erected  by  the  authorities;  but  in 
many  instances  they  have  been  built  by  some  vendeiro,  who  charges 
nothing  for  the  shelter  thus  afforded  to  the  tropeiros  and  the  thou- 
sands of  sacks  of  coffee  and  sugar  on  their  way  to  the  seaboard 
marts.    The  vendeiro,  however,  does  not  count  without  his  host,  for 


N'ovA  Fribourgo  and  Canta  Gallo.  297 

troupeiros  need  feijoes,  carne,  farinha,  cachaga,  and  coffee  for  them- 
eelves,  and  milho  for  their  mules.  Then  an  extra  girth,  a  saddle- 
blanket,  a  pointed  knife,  and  an  iron  spur,  are  often  wanted;  and 
the  Portuguese  vendeiro  thus  accumulates  property,  and  in  time 
becomes  a  fazendeiro,  but  does  not  give  up  the  shop,  which  always 
brings  him  a  good  return. 

Those  who  intend  travelling  long  journeys  in  Brazil  would  do 
well  to  purchase  their  own  mules.  Horses  and  mules  (the  latter 
are  much  more  serviceable)  maybe  hired  at  the  rate  of  from  5$000 
to  lOSOOO  (eleven  to  twenty-two  English  shillings)  for  each  fifty 
miles,  or  for  a  certain  sum  the  trip. 

The  coffee-plantations  of  the  elevated  uplands  of  Nova  Fri- 
bourgo and  Canta  Gallo  rank  among  the  best  in  the  j)rovince  of  Rio 
de  Janeiro:  many  of  them  are  owned  by  Swiss  and  Frenchmen 
who  came  to  Brazil  at  the  invitation  of  Dom  Joao  VI.,  in  1820;  but 
the  colony  of  which  they  formed  a  part  fell  through,  and  the  most 
energetic  men  have  become  proprietors.  The  Baron  of  New  Fri- 
bourg  has  immense  plantations  in  the  vicinity  of  N.  Fribourgo, 
where  he  not  only  employs  slaves,  but  many  emigrants  from  Por- 
tugal, the  Azores,  and  Madeira.  His  residence  in  the  viUa,  whence 
he  derives  his  title  is  a  large  mansion  built  in  good  taste.  A  Pro- 
testant chapel  of  small  dimensions  is  presided  over  by  an  old  Lutheran 
clergyman  who  came  to  Brazil  with  the  early  German  colonists. 
I  could,  however,  perceive  that  there  was  but  little  Christian 
vitality  among  this  people.  Lutherans  of  the  old  Church-and- 
State  School  are  among  the  very  last  men  to  propagate  the  gospel. 
There  is  more  hope  of  some  of  the  new  pastors  in  the  more  recently- 
established  German  colonies. 

At  Nova  Fi'ibourgo  are  a  number  of  excellent  schools,  the  chief 
of  which  is  the  Listituto  Collegial  of  Mr.  John  H.  Freese.  This 
gentleman  has  devoted  many  years  to  instruction  in  this  cool  and 
healthful  spot,  and  many  hundred  young  Fluminenses  have  here 
received  an  education  in  English  and  French,  as  well  as  in  the 
Portuguese  language.  I  have  met  with  the  scholars  of  ]\Ir.  Freese 
in  different  parts  of  the  Empire,  and  they  always  manifested  a 
general  intelligence  beyond  the  alumni  of  other  similar  institutions. 
His  Nocoes  Geraes  dcerca  da  Educagdo  da  Mocidade  Brazileira  show 
that  he  has  given  much  attention  to  the  subject  of  education. 


L'ys 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


Between  X.  Fribourgo  and  Canta  Gallo  the  scenery  is  remarkably 
Alpine,  and  such  is  the  cultivation  that  one  is  readily  reminded  of 
the  sweet  valleys  of  Switzerland.  In  the  neighborhood  of  Canta 
Gallo  I  found  a  number  of  intelligent  German,  Swiss,  and  French 
gentlemen,  whose  coffee-plantations  bring  them  most  lucrative 
incomes.     I  was  not  a  little  surprised  at  a  kind  offer  of  a  German, 


NEAR    THE    VILLAGE     OF     NOVA     FRIBOURGO. 


who  manifested  the  beginning  of  his  hospitality  by  asking  me  if  I 
would  not  take  ein  grog,  and  was  as  astonished  at  my  refusal  as  I 
had  been  at  his  offering. 

At  the  plantation-house  of  ]\Ii\  D.,  a  Swiss  from  Zurich,  I  was 
surrounded  by  many  reminiscences  of  his  fatherland;  and  when  I 
gazed  upon  his  finely-cultivated  fields,  which  stretched  before  ^is 
mansion,  I  could  almost  believe  myself  in  some  of  the  gi-een  vales 
of  the  Oberland,  large  paintings  of  which  graced  the  walls  of  the 


Extent  of  the  Bay  of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  299 

salon.  The  illusion  was  rendered  more  complete  when  night  had 
hidden  every  palm-tree  and  flowering  cactus,  and  I  heard  only  the 
sounds  of  the  French  and  German  languages,  or  from  the  piano 
the  simple  notes  of  the  Hanz  des  Vaches,  sweet  nocturnes,  and  the 
majestic  strains  of  Mendelssohn  and  Beethoven.  [  could  scarcely 
believe  myself  a  hundred  miles  in  the  interior  of  Brazil.  I,  how- 
ever, realized  that  I  was  not  in  the  land  of  Tell  when  I  returned 
to  Canta  Gallo  preceded  by  a  negro  in  livery,  who  bore  (on  horse- 
back) a  flaming  torch,  whose  flashes  of  light  revealed  overhanging 
mimosas,  bignonias,  and  loug,  bending  bamboos. 

The  old  hotel-keeper  at  Canta  Gallo  is  a  tall  Frenchman  who 
was  one  of  the  body-guard  of  Napoleon  I.,  which  fact  his  mellifluous 
Frangais,  as  well  as  rude  fresco-paintings,  soon  inform  you. 

In  returning  from  this  excursion,  there  is  a  magnificent  view  of 
the  whole  bay,  extending  as  it  does  within  its  mountain-walls  One 
hundred  miles  in  circumference.  The  most  important  ports  upon 
the  borders  of  this  ba}^  are  Maje,  Piedade,  Porto  da  Estrella,  and 
Iguassu.  At  these  several  places  great  quantities  of  produce  are 
delivered  by  troops  from  the  interior  and  embarked  in  steamers 
and  fulluas  for  the  capital. 

A  glance  at  the  map  shows  the  Bay  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  to 
contain  numerous  islands,  of  various  form  and  extent.  Ilha  do 
Governador,  or  Governor's  Island,  is  much  the  largest,  measuring 
twelve  miles  from  east  to  west.  Most  of  these  islands  are  inha- 
bited, and  under  tolerable  cultivation.  If  any  thing  can  add  to 
the  imposing  scenery  of  this  magnificent  bay,  it  is  the  vast  number 
of  small  vessels  that  are  seen  constantly  traversing  it,  dotting  the 
green  surface  of  the  water  with  their  whitened  sails.  From  morn- 
ing to  evening  may  be  seen,  plying  in  every  direction,  open  and 
covered  boats,  canoes,  lanchas,  falluas,  and  smacks. 

One  of  the  most  attractive  residences  for  the  people  of  Rio 
during  the  hot  season  is  the  newly -formed  colony  of  Petropolis, 
situated  about  three  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  An 
agreeable  steamboat-transit  amid  the  picturesque  islands  brings 
you  to  Maua,  the  terminus  of  the  first  railroad  formed  in  Brazil, 
and  for  which  the  Empire  is  indebted  to  the  enterprise  of  that 
enlightened  and  patriotic  Brazilian,  Evangelista  Ireneo  da  Souza, 
who,  on  the  opening  of  this  railway  was  created  Baron  of  Maua  by 


300  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

the  Emperor.  The  road  is  about  ten  miles  long,  and  leads  to  the 
foot  of  the  mountains,  where  carriages,  each  drawn  by  four  mules, 
receive  the  travellers.  The  ascent  is  by  an  excellent  road,  which 
was  built  by  the  Government  at  an  enormous  expense,  and  reminds 
one  of  the  Simplon  route.  In  some  parts  the  side  of  the  moun- 
tain is  so  steep  that  three  Avindings  are  compressed  into  a  space 
small  enough  to  allow  of  your  being  heard  as  you  speak  to  the 
persons  in  the  carriages  going  the  opposite  direction.  When  you 
reach  the  summit,  befoi-e  descending  into  the  valle}^  in  which 
stands  the  town,  a  magnificent  prospect  opens  before  you.  All  the 
bay  and  city  of  Eio,  with  the  plains  of  Maua,  across  which  lies  the 
diminutive  railroad,  are  mapj)ed  out  below. 

In  the  year  1837,  Dr.  Gardner  writes,  "  We  passed  through  the 
small,  miserable  village  of  Corrego  Secco."  This  is  now  Petro- 
polis.  All  the  neighboring  land  was  at  an  earlier  date  obtained  by 
the  Emperor  D.  Pedro  I.  with  a  view  to  forming  a  German  colon3\ 
This  design  was  interrupted  by  his  abdication,  but  has  been  car- 
ried out  by  his  son,  the  present  Emperor.  It  now  contains  ten 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  on  every  side  are  beautiful  residences 
of  wealthy  Eio  families  who  resort  thither  during  the  summer. 
Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  the  vicinity.  Eoads,  bordered 
by  villas,  stretch  away  from  the  centre,  between  hills  still  covered 
with  virgin  forest.  Many  of  these,  inhabited  by  the  German 
colonists,  bear  the  name  of  places  in  Fatherland,  and  the  mind  is 
pleasantly  transported  to  scenes  in  the  Old  World.  The  highroad 
to  the  mining-district  is  thi-ough  Peti'opolis,  and  troops  of  niules, 
laden  with  coffee,  sugar,  and  sometimes  gold,  are  perpetually  pass- 
ing down  to  the  head  of  the  bay,  where  their  loads  are  transferred 
to  falluas  and  steamers  to  be  transported  to  the  city. 

The  palace  of  the  Emperor  stands  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  and 
when  finished  and  surrounded  by  cultivated  grounds,  will  present 
a  beautiful  appearance.  Small  streams  intersect  the  streets  and  are 
crossed  by  bridges,  adding  much  to  the  singular  aspect  of  the  place 

There  are  Eoman  Catholic  and  Lutheran  churches,  large  hotels, 
and  many  shops.  Here  the  Baron  de  Maua  had  a  mansion  plea 
santly  situated  at  the  meeting  of  tAVO  mountain-brooks.  Several 
of  the  diplomatic  corps  and  other  foreigners  have  villas  here  and 
there, — the  English  generally  seeking  the  heights 


Petropolis,  the  Mountain-City. 


hOl 


The  colonists  belong  to  a  low  class  of  Germans,  and  brought 
with  them  few  arts  and  but  little  education.  It  seems  difficult  in 
any  tropical  climate  to  prevent  the  morals  and  industry  of  emi- 
grants fi'om  deteriorating,  and  this  is  particularly  to  be  observed 
in  slave-countries.  The  degraded  colonist,  while  setting  himself 
above  the  African,  engrafts  the  vices  of  the  latter  upon  the 
European  stock,  and  thus  sinks  to  a  lower  grade  than  the  negro. 
The  German  in  Brazil  has  the  want  of  a  sound  moral  people  sur- 
rounding him,  to  sustain  and  elevate  him:  therefore  it  is  no  marvel 
if  he  sink  lower  and  lower  in  the  scale  of  civilization.  Much, 
however,  is  being  done  for  the  Germans  of  Petropolis.  The 
clergyman,  as  the  pastor  of  the  church  and  superintendent  of  the 
schools,  takes  a  deep  interest  in  the  welfare  of  his  countrymen 
both  spiritually  and  intellectually. 


SWISS  VALLEY,  NEAR  PETROPOLIS. 


It  is  not  possible  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  entire  town  of  Petro- 
polis at  one  glance,  because  it  is  scattered  in  various  valleys 
among  the  hills.  More  rain  falls  here  than  in  Eio,  and  the  tiny 
rivulets  often  become  rushing  streams,  and  the  mule-troops  labor 
on  through  miles  of  mud.  This  moisture  keeps  the  air  cool  and 
fi-eshens  the  flowers  that  cluster  round  the  white-walled  cottages 
which  gleam  from  their  dark-green  background.     The  accompany- 


302  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

mg  view  is  taken  in  the  Swiss  valley,  where,  as  you  listen  to  tht 
German  accents  of  the  villagers,  fancy  might  induce  you  to  believe 
yourself  in  Europe,  did  not  the  waving  palm  and  rustling  banana 
remind  you  that  you  dwelt  under  a  tropic  sun. 

Petropolis  is  annually  becoming  of  greater  importance.  Its 
salubrious  and  delightful  climate  will  make  it  a  large  and  fashion- 
able resort  for  the  Capital  of  the  Empire,  and  perhaps  the  day  is 
not  distant  when  it  will  become  the  second  city  in  the  province.  It 
stands  at  the  entrance  to  the  fertile  province  of  Minas-Geraes,  and, 
should  some  plan  be  devised  for  constructing  a  railway  up  the 
mountains,  its  growth  will  be  most  rapid.  If  the  Baron  of  Maun 
would  pay  a  visit  to  the  United  States  and  examine  the  Pennsyl- 
vania railways,  or  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad,  he  ma}'  be 
encouraged  to  persevere.  Professor  Agassiz  considers  the  engi- 
neering triumphs  of  the  Pedro  IT.  Railway  of  the  first  rank  in  the 
world.  The  road  under  President  Ottoni  is  still  being  pushed  into 
the  interior.  The  Uniao  and  Industria  turnjiike  is  unique  in 
South  America.  It  begins  at  Petropolis,  and  extends  to  Juiz  de 
Fora  in  Minas-Geraes,  and  is  traversed  by  stage-coaches  and  ordi- 
nary freight- wagons.  Srs.  Lage  and  Joao  Baptista  Fonseca  are 
the  chief  officials  of  the  UniiXo  and  Industria  road. 

Note  for  1S66. — Since  this  chapter  was  written,  some  of  the  most  important 
measures  for  developing  the  resources  of  Brazil  have  been  carried  out,  at  an 
enormous  expense,  but  which  day  by  day  are  sliowing  tlieir  results.  During  the 
cabinet  of  the  late  Marquis  de  Paranii,  Sr.  Pedreira  do  Coutto  Ferraz,  Minister 
of  the  Empire,  contracted  for  the  construction  of  the  Pedro  II.  Railroad ;  for  that 
of  the  great  macadamized  road  called  the  Uniao  e  Industria;  and  for  the  Canta- 
Gallo  Railway,  now  twenty-five  miles  long.  The  first  section  of  the  Pedro  II. 
Railway  was  opened  in  1857.  The  contract  then  passed  from  English  into  Ame- 
rican hands,  Messrs.  Roberts,  Harvey,  and  Harrah.  Major  Ellison,  of  Massachu- 
Betts,  was  the  chief  engineer  of  the  road.  The  trains  now  run  to  tlic  Ponto 
Desengano,  on  the  Parahyba  River.  The  great  tunnel  which  terminates  near 
Mendes  was  opened  in  Decembei",  18G5.  The  Pedro  II.  Railway  has  now  passed 
into  the  hands  of  the  Brazilian  Government,  and  Mr.  William  Ellison  is  engineer- 
in-chicf.     Mr.  Jacob  Humbird  and  Sr.  Carneiro  Leao  are  principal  contractors. 


CHAPTEK  XYI. 

PKEPARATIONS     FOR     THE     VOYAGE     TO     THE     SOUTHERN     PROVINCES THE     PASSEN- 
GERS  UBATUBA EAGERNESS     TO    OBTAIN     BIBLES THE    ROUTINE    ON    BOARD  — 

ABORIGINAL    NAMES SAN    SEBASTIAN  AND    MIDSHIPMAN  WILBERFORCE — SANTOS 

BRAZILIANS    AT    DINNER INCORRECT  JUDGMENT     OF    FOREIGNERS S.  VINCENTE 

ORDER    OF    EXERCISES MY  CIGAR PARANAGUA H.B.M.    "CORMORANT"    AND  THE 

SLAVERS MUTABILITY  OF  MAPS — RUSSIAN  VESSELS    IN  LIMBO — THE  PRIMA  DONNA 

AN    ENGLISH    ENGINEER ARRIVE    AT    SAN    FRANCISCO    DO    SUL. 

Although  I  had  resided  several  years  in  the  Empire,  I  had  never 
visited  its  Southern  provinces.  In  June,  1855,  duty  as  well  as 
inclination  gave  me  the  privilege  which  I  had  so  long  desired. 

Having  been  kindly  provided  by  Brazilian,  German,  and  English 
friends  at  Eio  with  letters  of  introduction,  and  being  particularly 
fortified  by  a  strong  carta  de  recommendagdo  from  the  venerable 
Senator  Vergueiro,  (one  of  the  last  of  the  constitutional  patriots,) 
I  had  every  facility  for  seeing  Southern  Brazil  to  advantage. 

Wishing  to  have  ample  leisure,  I  procured  my  passport,  several 
days  before  my  departure,  at  the  proper  bureau.  One  of  the  first 
lessons  learned  by  the  traveller  in  Brazil  is  patience  and  conformity 
to  all  existing  formalities.  No  matter  how  absurd  the  regulation, 
as,  for  instance,  that  which  requires  one  to  obtain  a  passport  in 
leaving  the  city  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  for  the  provinces,  (where  it  is 
never  demanded,)  you  must  submit.  Protestations  only  bring  a 
shrug  of  the  shoulders  from  the  snuff-taking  official,  and  woe  be  to 
you  if  the  hour  for  closing  the  bureau  slips  around  before  3'ou  have 
obtained  the  necessary  document.  To  be  perfectly  en  regie,  the 
departing  citizen  or  stranger  must  have  his  name  registered  either 
in  the  custom-house  or  printed  in  some  public  .journal  three  days 
before  his  passport  is  granted,  in  order  that  his  creditors  may  have 
an  opportunity  of  knowing  his  movements.  But  the  passport  sys- 
tem, as  well  as  quarantines,  never  prevented  the  adit  or  exit  of 

rogues  or  pestilence. 

303 


304  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

In  addition  to  tliis,  I  had  prepared,  the  day  before,  my  baggage, 
consisting  'of  a  trunk  and  a  number  of  hxrge  boxes  of  books,  and 
I  had  made  arrangements  with  an  under-clerk  of  a  mercantile  house 
to  have  these  put  on  the  steamer  at  an  early  hour.  Believing 
myself  perfectly  secure,  I  was  busily  engaged  in  writing  up  to 
within  half  an  hour  of  tho  time  of  departure.  On  entering  the 
mercantile  establishment  referred  to,  I  found  that  my  baggage  was 
still  quietly  resting  where  I  had  left  it  the  day  previous.  There 
was  just  time  to  hurry  it  down  to  the  Consulado  in  a  cart.  Off  wo 
started,  and,  on  reaching  this  place,  we  went  through  a  set  of 
formalities  in  shipping  the  boxes;  then,  taking  a  boat,  (for  vessels 
there  do  not  lie  in  docks,)  we  arrived  at  the  steamer,  and  had  the 
mortification  to  be  informed  by  the  Brazilian  second  mate  that  the 
objects  of  our  haste  could  not  be  received  on  board  at  that  hour 
without  a  special  permit  from  the  office  of  the  steamer,  which 
was  in  a  street  one  mile  distant  from  the  Consulado. 

The  blacks  rowed  me  quickly  to  the  shore,  where  I  jumped  into 
a  tilbury  and  rattled  through  the  streets  to  the  much-coveted 
bureau  of  the  Southern  Steam-Packet  Company.  I  obtained  the 
permit,  and,  with  as  great  celerity  in  returning  as  in  coming,  I  was 
soon  on  board.  I  leave  to  the  reader  to  judge  how  much  easier 
and  more  reasonable  the  whole  matter  would  have  been  in  England 
or  the  United  States,  even  if  blame  were  to  be  attached  to  me  for 
not  attending  to  my  own  luggage  and  seeing  it  fairly  on  the 
steamer  the  day  before. 

Once  on  boai'd,  I  found  that  there  had  been  no  need  of  my  great 
fretting,  for  the  engine  snorted  and  hissed  more  than  an  hour 
before  we  left  the  moorings.  Our  passports  were  all  examined  by 
the  police-officer,  and  our  personal  identities  were  verified  by  the 
agent  of  the  packet,  in  oi-der  to  discover  if  all  the  passengers  had 
paid  their  fare:  the  captain  took  his  stand  upon  the  wheel-house, 
and  to  his  "Small  turn  ahead"  we  moved  through  the  assembled 
shipping  of  the  loading,  discharging,  and  man-of-war  anchorages, 
until  a  "Stop  her"  brought  us  under  the  guns  of  Villogagnon. 
Here  we  received  the  last  visit  of  the  agent,  and  then  the  Govern- 
ment officials    boarded  us  to  see   that  all  was  right  and you 

imagine  that  we  steamed  out  of  the  bay,  in  which  imagination  you 
would  be  egregiously  mistaken;  for  we  lay  before  Villegagnon  for 


Ubatuba.  305 

two  mortal  hours,  tossing  up  and  down  in  a  delightful  swell  Avhich 
rolled  in  directly  from  the  blue  Atlantic.  Something  had  been  left 
behind  by  the  captain's  wife,  which  (of  more  value  than  a  band- 
box) proved  to  have  been  a  large  package  of  money  "expressed" 
to  the  South ;  and  hence  our  delay. 

It  was  after  five  o'clock  when  we  passed  the  giant  sentinels  of 
the  Sugar-Loaf  and  Santa  Cruz.  The  passengers,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  myself,  a  Frenchman,  and  a  Lombard,  were  either  Bra- 
zilians or  Portuguese.  The  captain,  though  a  Baltimorean,  had 
renounced  his  allegiance  to  the  United  States,  and  had  been  natu- 
ralized in  Brazil.  Night  soon  came  on,  and  a  heavy  rolling  sea 
compelled  me  to  take  to  my  berth, — not,  however,  before  I  had  seen 
the  Brazilians  horribly  sea-sick;  and  all  of  them  have  such  a  bilious 
look  that  one  would  anticipate  for  them  an  unusual  degree  of  suf- 
fering upon  the  "vasty  deep." 

Early  the  next  morning  I  could  see  from  my  cabin-window  the 
mountains  of  the  coast.  The  same  magnificent  scenery  which  so 
delights  the  traveller  in  the  vicinity  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  is  reproduced 
all  the  way  to  Eio  Grande  do  Sul,  only  the  mountains  vary  in  form, 
and  in  some  places  the  palm-trees  are  more  luxuriant.  AVhen  I 
came  upon  deck,  we  wei*e  just  entering  the  beautiful  Bay  of  Ubatuba. 
Two  vessels  were  riding  at  anchor;  and,  for  a  small  place,  there  is 
considerable  trade  in  coffee,  which  is  brought  down  from  the 
interior  and  thence  shipped  to  Eio. 

The  village  of  Ubatuba  stretches  along  a  circular  beach,  and  its 
bright  houses  are  thrown  out  in  prominent  relief  by  the  verdant 
mountains  that  lift  themselves  in  the  background.  The  storm  had 
ceased ;  and  I  rarely  have  witnessed  a  lovelier  scene  than  was  pre- 
sented by  this  Southern  landscape.  The  captain,  seeing  the  calm- 
ness of  the  water,  had  the  good  sense,  at  this  juncture,  to  invite 
the  passengers  to  a  most  substantial  breakfast,  for  which  each  one 
on  board  had  been  fully  prepared  by  his  night's  tribute  paid  to  tl  e 
angry  waves. 

Every  eye  beamed  with  pleasure  (doubtless  the  breakfast  had  ha  I 

something  to  do  with  it)  as  the  vision  of  beauty  before  us  came  in 

review.     Good-nature  and  kindness  is  a  predominant  chai-acteristic 

of  the  Brazilian;   but  even  a  churl  would  have  been  alegre  under 

our  present  circumstances. 

20 


306  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

We  only  exchanged  mails  and  took  in  oranges,  (a  hundred  of  the 
most  luscious  could  be  purchased  for  an  English  threepence,)  and, 
bidding  farewell  to  Ubatuba,  in  a  short  time  we  were  sailing  close 
to  woody  islands  or  the  green  shore.  The  sea  was  smooth,  the 
passengers  were  all  upon  deck,  and  the  best  of  feeling  pervaded  the 
whole  company.  Wishing  to  profit  b}^  the  occasion,  I  descended 
to  my  trunk  and  brought  up  a  Portuguese  Bible,  which  I  offered 
to  a  passenger  on  the  conditions  laid  down  in  the  rules  of  the 
American  Bible  Society.  Only  a  few  moments  elapsed  ere  I  had 
disposed  of  all  the  volumes  of  the  Sacred  Word  which  were  at  my 
convenience,  and  on  every  side  my  fellow-voyagers  were  reading 
with  eagerness  a  book  they  had  never  seen  before..  From  time  to 
time  I  was  called  on  for  explanations,  and  I  was  renewedly  con- 
vinced of  the  freedom  from  bigotry  which  is  a  distinguishing  nega- 
tive quality  of  the  Brazilians.  An  officer  of  the  Imperial  navy  had 
just  returned  from  the  Brazilian  squadron  at  the  river  Plate,  and, 
in  seeking  the  bosom  of  his  family  at  Santos,  wished  the  Scrip- 
tures as  a  present  for  his  children,  and,  when  purchasing  them, 
he  remarked,  "Though  I  am  a  man  forty-five  years  of  age,  I  have 
never  before  seen  A  Santa  Biblia  in  a  language  which  I  could 
understand." 

Ubatuba  differs  in  a  certain  respect  from  a  number  of  neigh- 
boring towns,  inasmuch  as  it  rejoices  in  one  of  the  euphonious 
aboriginal  terms  which  were  found  throughout  the  country  at  its 
discovery.  Not  many  leagues  from  this  village  is  the  large  town  of 
Angra  dos  Reis  and  the  island  denominated  Ilha  Grande  dos  Magos, 
which  names  were  given  by  Martin  Affonso  de  Souza.  Although 
several  of  these  harbors  and  islands  had  been  previously  discovered 
and  probably  named,  yet — owing  to  the  circumstance  that  Souza 
became  an  actual  settler,  combined  with  the  fact  that  in  following 
the  Eoman  calendar  he  flattered  the  peculiar  prejudices  of  his 
countrymen — the  names  imposed  by  him  have  alone  remained  to 
posterity.  The  6th  day  of  January,  designated  in  English  as  that  of 
the  Epiphany,  is  termed,  in  Portuguese,  Dia  dos  Beis  Magos,  (Day 
of  the  Kings  or  Eoyal  Magi.)  The  island  of  S.  Sebastian  and  the 
port  of  S.  Vincente  were  named,  in  like  manner,  on  the  20th  and 
22d  days  of  the  same  month.  The  Indian  names  of  Brazilian 
towns   are   among   some  of  the   most   flowing  and  fine-sounding 


Midshipman  Wilberfoece  and  the  Mosquitos.      307 


found  in  any  language : — as  Itaparica,  Pindamonhangaba,  InJwmerim, 
Gua?'atingetd,  Parahiba  and  its  diminutive  Parahibuna,  &c., — the 
h  in  each  case  non  est  litera. 

It  was  only  a  few  hours'  run  from  TJbatuba  to  our  next  stopping- 
place.  We  were  constantly  passing  one  of  the  boldest  and  most 
picturesque  coasts  that  I  have  ever  seen.  Near  the  island  and  the 
town  of  San  Sebastian,  (the  latter  on  terra  firma,)  I  was  continually 
reminded  of  the  banks  of  the  Ehine  and  of  the  lake  and  mountain 
scenery  of  Switzerland,  though  here  perpetual  verdure  crowns  cliif 
and  crag,  and  the  valleys  were  covered  with  plantations  of  coffee 
and  sugar,  and  the  orange-groves  were  prodigal  of  their  golden 
fruit.  The  shore  was  steep  and  high,  and  well-wooded  promon- 
tories stood  out  with  minute  distinctness  in  the  bright,  pure  atmo- 
sphere. The  island  of  San  Sebastian  is  only  separated  by  a  naiTOw 
strait  from  the  mainland,  and  it  seemed  to  me,  as  I  gazed  upon  it, 
like  one  of  the  fabled  Hesperides.  The  steep  rocky  sides  of  its 
mountain-ridge  are  interspersed  with  belts  of  forest,  from  whose 
thick-foliaged  bosom  cascades  of  Alpine  magnitude  dashed  their 
foamin<r  treasures  hundreds  of  feet  below. 

It  was  in  a  hamlet  on  this  romantic  island  that  Wilberforee — 
a  rollicking,  fun-loving  Eng- 
lish midshipman  —  says  he 
saw  the  traces  of  Portuguese 
hands  in  a  neat  white  church 
which  rose  from  the  midst 
of  mud  houses.  "The  anti- 
quity of  the  building,"  ho 
writes,  "was  not  the  solo 
proof  of  its  origin.  The  pre- 
sence of  a  church  is  in  itself 
sufficient  to  show  whether 
Portuguese  or  Brazilians 
have  founded  the  village. 
It  is  said  that  the  first  build- 
ing that  Portuguese  settlers 
erect  is  a  church  :    the  first 

that  Brazilians  build  is  a  grog-shop."  And  then  he  significantly 
adds,  "We  order  these  things  better  in  England,  and  build  both  at 


THE      ROADSIDE      VENDA. 


308 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


the  same  time."  I  cannot  say  that  the  remarks  of  Midshipman 
Wilberforce  are  altogether  exact  j  for  it  is  a  fact  that  the  Brazilians 
already  have  too  many  churches  for  the  priests,  and  also  that  they 
do  commence  the  nucleus  of  their  village  by  a  venda,  which  not 
only  serves  as  a  drinking-house,  hut  as  a 
place  for  lodging  and  eating.  The  Brazilians 
are  a  temperate  people,  as  I  have  already 
observed,  and  are  not  given  to  drunkenness 
as  the  Northern  nations;  therefore  "grog- 
shop" is  not  the  correct  term  to  express  the 
foundation  of  a  Brazilian  settlement.  Eeli- 
gion  and  the  venda  are  not  always  insepa- 
rable; for  you  will  frequently  find  a  little 
cross  erected  near  its  entrance,  and  some- 
times an  alms-box  affixed  to  the  door,  on 
which  is  painted  ''Avhite  souls  and  black" 
lifting  up  from  the  flames  of  purgatory  hands 
of  supplication ;  and  hard  must  te  the  heart 
that  can  resist  the  piteous  spectacle. 

The  midshipman  is,  however,  entirely  just  in  his  observations  on 
mosquitos  and  the  very  vicious  sand-flies  called  borruchudos.  Both 
his  indignation  and  poetry  arise  at  the  trouble  they  gave  him;  for 
he  eloquently  bursts  forth  in  the  following  : — "Any  one  who  should 
write  an  ode  to  Brazilian  scenery  [near  San  Sebastian]  would 
probably  begin, — 

"  '  Ye  mountains,  on  whose  woody  heights 
The  greedy  borruchudo  bites  ; 
Ye  forests,  in  whose  tangled  mazes 
The  dire  mosquitos  sting  like  blazes !' — 


THE     ALMS-BOX. 


and  so  on  to  the  end  of  the  canto.  Things  that  would  be  poetical 
in  themselves  are  sadly  spoiled  by  the  introduction  of  such  utili- 
tarian adjuncts  as  mosquitos.  Greedy  animals !  I  am  ashamed 
of  you.  Cannot  you  once  forego  your  dinner  and  feast  your  mind 
with  the  poetry  of  the  landscape  ?" 

San  Sebastian  is  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  long,  and  of  nearly 
equal  width.  It  is  well  cultivated  and  somewhat  populous.  Like 
riha  Grande,  it  was  a  rendezvous  for  vessels  engaged  in  the  slave- 


Santos.  309 

trade.  Sach  craft  had  great  facilities  for  landing  their  cargoes  of 
human  beings  at  these  and  contiguous  points;  and  if  they  did  not 
choose  to  go  into  the  harbor  of  Eio  to  refit,  they  could  be  furnished 
at  this  place  with  the  requisite  papers  for  another  voyage.  For  no 
other  object  was  the  vice-consulate  of  Portugal  established  in  the 
villa  opposite. 

The  sun  was  setting  as  our  little  steamer  issued  from  the  Bay  of 
S.  Sebastian,  and  before  daylight  was  gone  we  neared  the  Alcatra- 
zes,  two  rocky  islands  of  curious  shape,  conspicuous  objects  well 
known  to  all  travelled  Paulistas. 

Before  retiring  to  my  cabin  I  had  an  interesting  conversation 
with  a  Portuguese  who  was  proud  of  his  little  native  peninsular 
kingdom,  and  boasted  of  her  great  deeds  and  past  prowess,  but 
spoke  not  of  her  present  glory.  The  Lombard  passenger  enter- 
tained me  with  sketches  of  the  Milanese  revolt  of  1848,  and  with 
warlike  chansons,  in  which  the  name  of  Carlo  Alberto  II  Ee  di 
Sardegna  was  ever  prominent. 

The  next  morning  we  arrived  at  Santos,  situated  a  few  miles  up 
a  river  of  the  same  name,  which  is  the  chief  port  of  the  flourishing 
province  of  St.  Paul's.  Here  I  landed  my  two  boxes  intended  for 
the  interior,  and  which  1  hoped  would  reach  their  destination 
before  I  returned  to  Santos,  so  that  I  could  ride  swiftly  after  them 
and  not  be  delayed  as  I  had  been  in  similar  excursions  in  the  rural 
part  of  the  province  of  Eio  de  Janeiro.  I  had  some  difficulty  with 
the  custom-house;  and  no  one  but  strangers  who  have  gone 
through  this  experience  in  Brazil  can  imagine  the  various  annoy- 
ances to  which  every  species  of  goods  is  subjected.  There  are 
no  objections  to  the  books  because  they  are  Bibles,  but  you  must 
pay  duty  (small,  it  is  true)  a  second  time  upon  them.  1  thought 
because  I  had  paid  duties  once  at  Eio  that  that  was  sufficient;  but 
here  they  have  a  provincial  tariff  from  which  no  one  is  exempt.  I 
had  letters  from  Senator  Vergueiro  to  his  two  sons,  who  have  a 
mercantile  house  here,  and  also  the  father  and  the  sons  have  im- 
mense plantations  in  the  interior;  and  it  was  to  one  of  these 
plantations  that  I  determined  to  go,  and,  while  doing  good,  be 
enabled  to  see  for  myself  the  condition  of  the  thousand  European 
colonists  which  the  enterprising  Yergueiros  have  under  their 
charu'e. 


SIO  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Senhor  Jose  Vergueiro,  the  principal  of  the  Santos  house^  (Ver- 
gueiro  &  Filhos,)  was  absent,  and  his  brother,  the  fourth  son  of 
the  Senator,  was  indisposed.  But  at  his  order  every  kindness  was 
shown  me  by  the  clerks  of  the  establishment;  and  through  one  of 
them  my  books  were  soon  liberated  from  the  custom-house.  I 
declined  their  invitation  to  dine  at  the  Trapiche,  for  I  had  already 
accepted  the  kind  offer  of  my  Brazilian  compagnons  de  voyage  at 
the  hotel  of  Senhor  Francisco.  Senhor  F.  was  said  to  be  a  perfect 
polyglot;  but  I  found,  by  trying  him  in  three  languages,  that  he 
only  spoke  a  smattering  of  each.  The  dinner  was  plentiful  and 
excellent.  I  found  that  the  convivial  qualities  of  the  Brazilians 
were  as  remarkable  as  those  of  John  Bull, — not  that  there  was 
drinking  to  any  excess,  but  they  ate  heartily,  and  cheered  most 
lustily  at  every  toast  or  sentiment,  with  which  it  seemed  our  feast 
was  as  plentifully  provided  as  with  substantial  food  and  doces.  The 
Brazilians  are  great  toasters;  and  1  have  seen  a  table  at  which 
twenty  or  more  persons  were  assembled,  and  each  proposed  at 
least  one  sentiment,  while  some  proposed  during  the  sitting  the 
health  of  as  many  as  six  different  individuals.  Some  of  these 
toasts  would  be  concluded  by  a  song  vociferated  by  the  whole  com- 
pany as  loudly  as  if  German  students  had  been  the  performers. 

The  company  at  Senhor  Francisco's  consisted  of  merchants, 
physicians,  a  number  of  Government  civil  officers,  and  one  colonel 
of  the  regular  array.  Wine  in  abundance  was  placed  upon  the 
table;  yQ.t  it  was  used  in  great  moderation  by  those  who  did  par- 
take of  it,  while  others  seemed  to  abstain  from  it  altogether.  In 
settling  tlie  bill,  ($1  each,)  not  one  of  them  would  allow  me  to  share 
a  penny  of  the  expense;  and  throughout  the  whole  repast,  it  being 
known  that  I  was  a  Protestant  clergyman,  they  were  most  re- 
spectful in  their  bearing,  and  all  approved  of  the  work  in  which  1 
was  engaged.  I  have  been  thus  particular  in  mentioning  this  little 
incident,  because  some  writers  and  visitors  in  Brazil,  but  who  cer- 
tainly have  never  seen  beyond  a  ship-ehandlery,  hotel,  or  at 
furthest  some  coast-city,  have  complained  that  Brazilians  are  in- 
hospitable, selfish,  and  altogether  distrustful  of  strangers.  As  to 
inhospitality,  away  from  the  great  towns  it  cannot  be  predicated  of 
them;  and  even  in  Eio  and  Bahia,  the  largest  cities  of  Brazil,  I 
have  met  with  the  very  warmest  welcomes  from  Brazilians  whom 


Hospitality  and  Kindness.  311 

I  had  never  seen  until  I  handed  them  my  letters  of  intioductiou. 
Among  the  pleasantest  memories  of  my  life  will  be  the  recollection 
of  the  kind  hospitality  manifested  towards  me  by  Brazilians  at  the 
metropolis,  where  more  than  elsewhere  coldness  is  said  to  abound. 
As  to  selfishness  and  distrust  of  strangers,  they  possess  the  one  in 
common  with  human  nature,  and  of  the  other  they  do  not  possess 
more  than  is  manifested  by  Englishmen  or  Americans  when  ap- 
proached by  the  newly-arrived  foreigner  without  letters  of  recom- 
mendation. 

From  the  hotel  of  Senhor  Francisco  we  went  on  boai-d  of  our 
steamer.  That  evening  a  knot  of  our  passengers,  together  with 
the  captain  and  his  mate,  sat  up  to  a  late  hour  conversing  in  regard 
to  the  demoralizing  literature  which  floods  the  land  from  France. 
They  listened  with  great  attention  to  remai'ks  w^iich  were  in  favor 
of  laying  the  axe  at  the  root  of  the  tree ;  and  a  corrupt  religion 
was  measured  by  the  only  true  standard, — that  great  Eule  of  Faith 
given  to  us  by  God  in  His  word. 

The  next  day  our  steamer  did  not  leave  Santos  until  noon,  so  that 
I  had  an  opportunity  of  going  again  to  the  warehouse  of  Senhor 
Vergueiro  &  Filhos.  1  was  glad  to  find  that  the  youngest  Vergueiro 
was  able  to  be  in  his  counting-room,  though  Senlior  Jose  had  not 
yet  returned  from  the  interior.  He  regretted  much  that  I  could 
not  then  accept  the  hospitality  of  their  house,  stating  that  his 
father  had  written  to  them  requesting  that  they  would  pay  me 
every  possible  attention,  but  hoped  that  on  my  return  from  San 
Francisco  do  Sul  1  would  give  them  a  long  visit.  All  this  was  said 
in  a  manner  so  unaffected  and  cordial  as  to  preclude  all  idea 
of  formality  or  insincerity. 

At  twelve  o'clock  the  "vapor"  left  Santos,  and  we  were  soon 
steaming  down  the  river. 

Santos  is  situated  upon  the  northern  portion  of  the  island  of  S. 
Vicente,  which  is  detached  from  the  continent  merely  by  the  two 
mouths  of  the  Cubatao  Kiver.  The  principal  stream  affords  en- 
trance at  high-water  to  large  vessels,  and  is  usually  called  Eio  de 
Santos  up  as  far  as  that  town.  At  its  mouth,  upon  the  northern 
bank,  stands  the  fortress  of  S.  Amaro.  This  relic  of  olden  time  is 
occupied  by  a  handful  of  soldiers,  whose  principal  employment  ia 
to  go  on  board  the  vessels  as  they  pass  up  and  down,  to  serve  as  a 


312  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

guard  against  smuggling.  Tlie  course  of  tlie  river  is  winding  and 
its  bottom  muddy.  Its  banks  are  low  and  covered  with  mangx'oves, 
so  that  the  foreground  is  not  very  inviting;  but  from  the  wheel- 
house  a  fine  prospect  of  back-countiy  and  distant  mountains  pre- 
sented themselves  on  the  north.  The  captain  pointed  out  the  site 
of  St.  Vincent, — the  first  regularly-established  colony  in  Brazil. 
How  Martin  Alfonso  de  Souza  could  have  chosen  this  place  in  pre- 
ference to  the  present  situation  of  Eio  is  indeed  hard  to  account 
for,  excejjt  on  the  ground  that  the  Tamoyo  Indians  were  too 
numerous  around  the  Bay  of  JSTictherohy. 

The  sea  becoming  rough,  I  took  to  my  old  and  sovereign  remedy 
against  nausea, — viz. :  a  good  oerth, — and  did  not  rise  until  I  found 
that  the  sun  was  high  above  the  mountains,  and  that  we  were  enter- 
ing the  intricate  harbor  of  Paranagua.  Before  crossing  the  bar,  we 
saw  outside  a  Brazilian  schooner  tossing  up  and  down  at  anchor.  The 
captain,  with  his  glass,  perceived  that  it  was  one  chai-tered  by  the 
Steam-Packet  Company,  and  was  loaded  with  coals  from  which  he 
was  to  obtain  his  fuel  for  the  remainder  of  the  voj^age.  It  was  of 
the  utmost  importance,  then,  that  the  schooner  should  cross  the  bar. 
With  the  jn-esent  wind  it  would  be  impossible.  The  steamer's 
head  was  put  for  the  schooner.  It  was  with  difficulty  that  any 
one  became  aroused,  and  then  the  utmost  indifference  was  mani- 
fested by  the  captain  of  the  little  sailing-vessel  at  a  proposition 
which  would  have  made  an  English  or  a  Yankee  skipper  dance 
with  joy, — i.e.  to  be  towed  in.  His  drawling  reply  was,  ^^  Se  o 
Senhor  quizer,"  (If  the  gentleman  wishes  it.)  This  was  perfectly  in 
accordance  with  the  general  want  of  energy  which  characterizes  a 

certain  class  of  Brazilians.     The  vessel  was  attached  to  the  P , 

and  we  were  soon  over  the  bar,  steering  up  the  difficult  channel. 

A  number  of  letters  which  I  wrote  to  a  friend  during  this  voyage 

were  preserved  and  afterward  returned  to  me;  and  I  have  thought 

it  best  from  time  to  time  to  introduce  portions  of  th.em  which  possess 

at  least  the  interest  of  being  penned  amid  the  scenes  which  they 

describe.     The  following  was  written  from  the  next  port  south  of 

Paranagua.  <<c.      t.  c.      . 

°  "  CAN  Francisco  do  Sdl,  1 

"Province  OF  Santa  Cathakina.      / 
"  This  is  not  that  San  Francisco  of  wonderful  growth,  of  adven- 
turers, and  of  golden  dreams.     As  to  gold,  there  is  none;  as  to 


Okder  of  Exercises  on  the  Steamer.  313 

adventurers,  only  two  runaway  sailors;  and  as  to  rapid  growth, 
that  is  reversed,  for  here  there  are  plenty  of  houses  to  let, — plenty 
'hunying  [the  only  haste  to  be  discovered]  on  to  indistinct  decay.' 

"But  I  will  go  back  for  a  day  or  two  in  ni}"  journey. 

''I  left  Santos  on  the  15th.  It  is  delightful  to  travel  on  a  Bra- 
zilian steamer,  provided  that  you  are  not  in  a  hurry.  They  take 
things  so  easy:  I  mean  both  steamers  and  people.  And  let  me  say 
that,  of  all  the  travellers  with  whom  I  have  ever  voj'aged,  the  Bra- 
zilians are  the  most  good-natured  and  agreeable  after  you  have 
laade  their  acquaintance.  They  are  veiy  obliging,  yet  from  time 
to  time  can  display  as  much  selfishness  as  other  'humans'  on  a 
vessel, — that  little  world  in  miniature,  where  all  that  is  bad  is  easily 
brought  to  light.  Pacieiiza  is  the  motto  of  these  steamers.  When 
you  arrive  at  a  town,  after  having  been  'terribly'  pitched  about 
and  sea-sick,  you  may  now  count  upon  a  good  twenty -four  or  thirty- 
six  hours  on  land.  It  is  a  great  luxury.  The  passengers  desert 
the  vessel,  (although  good  dinners  are  provided  on  shipboard,)  and 
oti'  tliey  rush  to  the  hotels;  or,  in  default  of  this,  the}"  seek  the 
Casus  de  Pasto,  and  feast  to  such  an  extent  that  you  would  deem 
them  half  famished. 

"The  'order  of  exercises'  on  board  the  steamer  at  sea  may  be 
easily  stated.  Each  morning  at  six  o'clock  the  cabin-boy  wakes 
you  up  by  giving  you  a  cup  of  coffee,  {noir,)  and  thirty  or  forty 
minutes  afterward  a  large  bowl  of  niirujau,  (arrowroot,  or  maize- 
raush,)  well  sprinkled  with  cinnamon  and  sugar,  is  placed  on  the 
table,  and  a  stra])ping  big  fellow,  fortified  with  a  ladle,  is  ready  to 
serve  you  with  all  the  grace  and  celerity  which  appertains  to  the 
same  kind  of  presiding  genii  that  you  meet  with  at  the  Faubourg 
du  Temple  in  Paris.  At  ten  o'clock  a  huge  breakfast  consisting  of 
roast  and  boiled  beef,  pork,  fresh  fish,  pirao,  (a  dish  of  mandioca,) 
t\:c.  &c.,  is  placed  before  you.  Fall  to,  help  yourself,  and  your  neigh- 
bors will  do  the  same  without  any  ritardo;  and,  when  satisfied  or 
fatigued  with  this  operation,  vary  the  business  by  imbibing  the  tea 
which  the  steward  has  just  brought  simmering  in.  Now  mount 
the  deck.  If  the  sea  is  not  heavy,  pipes,  cigars,  and  promenades 
are  the  next  in  the  programme.  The  scenery  on  shore  is  my  cigar  j 
and  up  to  the  present  time  there  has  been  no  diminution  of  my 
enjoj'ment  in  this  respect.     If  any  thing,  the  mountains  are  still 


314 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


more  fantastic  and  varied  than  at  Eio,  and  the  bays  and  islets  are 
perfectly  picturesque.  The  passengers  are  full  of  pranks  and  jokes 
for  an  hour  or  so,  and  then  they  take  a  nap  or  read.  I  will  venture 
to  assert  there  never  was  before  so  much  Bible-reading  on  board 
of  a  Brazilian  vessel.  On  account  of  the  warmth  of  the  climate, 
each  of  these  coast-steamers  have,  all  around  the  upper  deck,  little 
cabins,  or,  more  properly,  respectable  dog-houses,  with  a  sliding- 
door.  Although  there  are  comfortable  berths  below,  these  uj)per 
apartments  are  the  choicest  to  be  had;  for,  night  or  day,  you  ai'e 
always  sure  of  fresh,  pure  air.  My  fellow-passengers  were  stretched 
around  in  these  little  cabins  with  the  sliding-doors  pushed  back,  and 


VIEW      OF      PARANAGUA. 


I  thus  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  them  as  I  walked  the  decR. 
I.  was  often  called  upon  to  explain  the  Scriptures,  and  rejoiced  in 
the  opportunity  of  scattering  the  seed,  which,  though  sown  in  ap- 


The  "Cormorant"  and  the  Slavers.  315 

parently  unproj)itious  ground,  the  Master  can  cause  to  spring  up 
an  hundredfold. 

"  We  arrived  at  Paranagua  on  the  Saturday  morning  after  leav- 
ing Rio,  and  now  I  can  say  that  I  have  been  in  the  newest  Bra- 
zilian province, — that  of  Parana.  The  entrance  of  the  bay  is  a 
])eriect  puzzle,  and  the  mountains  beyond  the  city  are  both  lofty 
and  picturesque.  AVhile  the  sun  was  streaming  down  upon  the 
deck  of  our  steamer,  I  took  a  rough  sketch  of  a  portion  of  the 
outer  harbor,  which  I  herewith  enclose  to  you,  premising  the  im- 
possibility to  do  justice  to  this  whole  coast  without  the  power  of  a 
Constable,  a  Turner,  or  a  Calame. 

"Paranagua  was  formerly  a  celebrated  rendezvous  for  scoundrels 
of  all  nations  engaged  in  the  slave-trade ;  and  when  the  British 
Government,  a  few  years  ago,  ordered  its  cruisers  to  make  a 
vigorous  demonstration  on  the  Brazilian  coast,  the  'Cormorant,' 
of  the  Eoyal  Navy,  steamed  up  these  sinuosities,  entered  the  har- 
bor, and  cut  out  a  whole  nest  of  slavers.  The  fort  was  well  situated 
near  the  bar,  and  H.  B.  M.  '  Cormorant'  must  pass  that  point.  After 
a  slight  resistance  before  yielding  their  vessels,  the  pirate  captains 
and  crews  ran  around  by  land  to  the  fort  and  manned  the  guns, 
anxiously  awaiting  the  'Cormorant'  as  she  should  proceed  to  sea, 
dragging  her  trophies  after  her.  Proudly  she  again  ploughed 
through  the  winding  approach  to  the  ocean.  The  guns  of  the  fort 
were  well  pointed,  but  H.  B.  M.  '  Cormorant'  proved  to  be  as  much 
of  a  sagacious  fox  as  a  rapacious  bird,  for,  perceiving  the  trap  laid 
for  her,  she  prepared  a  most  '  artful  dodge.'  Her  crew  very  adroitly 
placed  the  largest  slaver  between  herself  (the  man-of-war)  and  the 
fort,  and  then  onward  steamed  the  'Cormorant.'  Bang  went  the 
cannon  of  the  fortress:  the  balls  touched  not  the  bird  of  prey;  but, 
in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye,  she  slipped  beyond  the  slaver,  discharged 
the  heavy  guns  from  her  bows,  and  the  dislodged  cannon  of  the  fort 
told  how  capital  had  been  the  aim  of  H.  B.M.'s  gunners.  The 
slavers, however,  prepared  to  respond;  but  the  discreet  'Cormorant' 
cunningly  retired  behind  the  big  vessel,  though  but  for  an  instant. 
She  sailed  once  more  onward,  and  discharged  her  farewell  shot  with 
such  telling  effect  upon  the  old  fort  that  the  inmates  made  no 
further  attempt  to  hinder  the  'Cormorant,'  which  soon  gained  the 
open  sea,  and  in  a  few  moments,  by  skilful  scuttling,  put  the  slave 


316  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

vessels  beyond  the  reach  of  o  trafico,  as  you  know  the  Brazilians 
call  the  accursed  slave-trade. 

"Most  of  our  passengers  went  ashore  here,  many  of  them  bound 
for  Curitiba,  the  capital  of  this  new  province.  Their  great  kind- 
ness 1  shall  not  soon  forget;  and  1  am  happy  to  think  that  they 
will  carry  the  Bible,  perhaps  for  the  first  time,  where  probably 
few  have  ever  seen  the  records  of  salvation. 

"I  also  went  ashore.  Paranagua  is  a  pretty  and  a  clean  town, — 
a  little  in  decay  I  thought  at  first;  but  a  second  inspection  told  me 
that  I  had  not  done  justice  to  the  only  port  of  Parana.  This  town 
contains  about  three  thousand  inhabitants,  and  annually  exports 
mate  to  the  amount  of  one  million  of  dollars.  Mate  is  the  dried 
leaves  and  young  stems  of  a  species  of  oak  which  is  gathered 
in  the  interior  and  brought  dowi.  in  raw-hide  cases,  exceedingly 
tightly  packed,  and  is  hence  shipped  for  the  Spanish-American 
Kepublics. 

"I  found  a  number  of  large  wholesale  stores  doing  a  good  busi- 
ness with  those  who  brought  hither  the  products  of  the  back- 
country.  One  of  these  merchants  invited  me  to  go  to  the  house 
of  his  brother  for  the  purpose  of  examining  a  map  of  the  province, 
which  I  had  in  vain  sought  for  in  the  metropolis,  the  boundaries 
not  having  as  yet  been  definitely  fixed.  Fancy  my  feelings  when, 
after  threading  a  number  of  streets,  I  entered  a  house  where  a 
recent  floor-scrubbing  made  every  thing  appear  damp,  and  a  largo 
map  was  brought  forth  which  seemed  to  have  imbibed  as  much  of 
humidity  as  possible  without  being  wet ;  and,  though  it  was  perfect 
in  every  part  save  one,  that  part  was  just  what  I  wished  to  see, — 
viz. :  the  boundary  between  Parana  and  S.  Paulo.  Moisture,  mil- 
dew, and  mice  had  carefully  eradicated  every  design  of  the  engineer 
and  every  scratch  of  the  engraver,  so  that  I  was  left  to  return, 
mourning  over  the  mutability  of  maps  and  the  carelessness  of  man 
ii.  Paranagua. 

•'In  one  of  the  streets  the  ruins  of  a  church  attracted  my  atten- 
tion; and  I  was  informed  that  it  was  an  edifice  nearly  comj^leted 
by  the  Jesuits  when  they  were  expelled.  You  can  scarcely  travel 
a  hundred  miles  along  the  Brazilian  sea-coast  (which  stretches, 
with  its  bays  and  inlets,  nearly  four  thousand  miles)  without 
encountering,  in  some  rich  valley  or  upon  some  picturesque  emi 


The  E-ussians  and  the  Prima  Donna.  317 

ncnce,  the  immense  churches,  chapels,  and  convents  of  this  order, 
whose  members  entered  Brazil  when  its  prosperity  was  at  its 
height  and  when  its  ambition  was  hindered  by  no  external  circum- 
stances. I  have  been  more  surprised  at  the  hugeness  of  some  of 
the  conventual  edifices  in  Bi-azil  than  at  any  thing  of  the  kind  I 
have  ever  seen  in  France,  Germany,  or  Italy. 

"As  the  little  canoe  in  which  we  went  from  the  steamer  to  the 
town  neared  the  inner  harbor,  where  vessels  were  moored  close  to 
the  shore,  I  perceived  two  which  looked  remarkably  desolate  and 
forlorn.  They  were  Russian  vessels  which  were  found  near  this 
port  at  the  commencement  of  hostilities,  and,  fearing  to  be  nabbed 
by  some  H.B.M.  'Bulldog,'  'Grabber/  or  'Jowler,'  slid  into  this 
out-of-the-way  place.  It  appears  very  singular  to  see  these 
Northern  birds  of  the  ocean  clipped  of  their  wings  here.  They  are 
truly  out  of  place;  for  their  yards  are  taken  off,  the  topmasts  are 
down,  and,  with  their  stiff  hulks,  awnings  of  canvas  in  the  house- 
roof  style,  and  with  their  general  want  of  rigging,  the}'  seem  like 
the  'Fury'  and  'Hecla'  in  their  Gi'eenland  clothes,  or  rather  as 
if  the  winter-bound  Bay  of  Archangel  were  their  resting-place,  and 
it  and  the  surrounding  shores  were  suddenly  clad  by  the  'Hand 
divine'  with  the  warmth  and  flowers  and  verdure  of  this  perpetual- 
summer  land. 

"When,  on  my  return,  I  reached  the  steamer,  I  found  that  a 
lady  whose  peculiar  taste  in  dress  had  attracted  the  attention  of 
all  on  board  was  attended  b}''  a  number  of  'spruce  gentlemen' 
whose  well-trimmed  moustaches  and  highly-polished  patent-leather 
shoes  indicated  that  they  belonged  to  a  class  very  different  from 
the  poncho-clad  passengers  bound  to  Curitiba  and  the  Sertoes.  It 
was  not  long  before  I  ascertained  that  the  lady  in  question  was  the 
'bright  particular  star'  of  a  theatrical  company  then  travelling  the 
provinces,  and  that  the  gentlemen  Avere  from  the  same  establish- 
ment, they  having  arrived  some  days  previous  to  their  prima 
donna  assoluta. 

"The  passengers  who  were  destined  for  Santa  Catharina  re- 
mained that  night  upon  the  steamer;  but  the  next  day,  (Sunday,) 
at  an  early  hour,  all  left,  with  the  exception  of  myself,  to  pass  the 
hours  of  sacred  time  at  Paranagua,  where  a  grand  festa  was  to  take 
place  in  honor  of  some  saint.    One  of  the  greatest  inducements  was 


318  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

to  attend  the  theatrical  perforinanees  of  the  strolling  actors,  who 
were  to  give  dignity  and  honor  to  the  occasion  by  stujjid  and 
vulgar  comedies.  You  will  think,  perhaps,  'What  is  the  use  of 
disseminating  the  word  of  God  among  such  a  people?'  I  will 
reply,  'Be  not  weary  in  well-doing;'  and  it  is  God's  own  word. 
My  duty  is  to  scatter  it  far  and  wide,  to  preach  it  by  precept 
whenever  I  can,  and  by  example  always,  and  then  leave  the  rest 
to  Him.  I  have  already  found  more  than  one  notable  instance  in 
Brazil,  where  a  Bible,  left  under  circumstances  just  as  untoward, 
has  produced  its  fruits. 

"I  spent  my  day  on  board,  but  had  very  little  quiet  while  the 
steamer  was  receiving  her  cargo  of  coals  from  the  schooner  along- 
side, from  which — in  some  manner  very  unaccountable  to  the 
8kipj)er — there  were  many  tons  short.  I  had  all  to  myself, 
a  large  table  well  spread  with  viands;  but,  being  of  a  social 
nature,  I  invited  the  engineer  (a  common-sense  and  wide-aAvake 
fellow  of  the  Manchester  machine-shop  stripe)  and  the  Brazilian 
second  mate  to  join  me.  I  find  out  from  the  Englishman  that 
there  are  many  of  his  countrymen  and  their  children  at  the  Saude, 
[a  division  of  the  municipality  of  Eio  de  Janeiro,]  uncared-for 
either  morally  or  intellectually.  They  are  too  far  from  the  Eng- 
lish church  to  attend  service  :  but  this  plea  of  distance  perhaps  is 
only  put  forward  to  hide  the  real  one  of  indifference.  Now,  can 
you  not  put  something  in  train  for  them?  They  are  workmen, 
and  he  saj'S  that  both  adults  and  children  are  not  doing  what  they 
ought,  one  class  running  to  cacha^a  and  the  other  to  ignorance,  and 
'Sunday  is  no  Sunday.'  Next  year  there  are  a  thousand  English 
and  Irish  laborers  coming  out  for  the  Pedro  Segundo  Railway,  and, 

on  account  of  the  distance  and  the  pulpit-duties  of  Mr. ,  a 

clergyman,  he  cannot  have  facilities  for  attending  to  their  minds 
or  souls. 

[In  regard  to  the  matter  here  referred  to,  some  English  ladies 
and  an  American  theological  student  (then  on  a  visit  to  Brazil) 
took  it  up,  and  interested  both  English  and  American  merchants 
in  the  plan.  They  furnished  the  means,  and,  just  as  all  was  well 
organized,  a  competent  man  was  found  in  an  English  mate,  then 
on  his  homeward  voj-age  from  Australia,  and  intending  to  devote 
the  remainder  of  his  days  to  God  in  some  other  employment  than 


Letters  of  Introduction.  319 

that  of  following  the  ocean,  and  was  persuaded  to  take  charge  of 
the  new  school,  which  in  a  short  time  was  in  full  operation,  and 
disseminating  its  ameliorating  influences  upon  both  parents  and 
children.]     This  school  in  1865  is  still  a  great  success. 

"  The  next  day  (Monday)  we  left  Paranagmi.  After  a  fine  run 
of  eight  hours  along  a  coast  abounding  in  repetitions  of  Corco- 
vados  and  Peaks  of  Tijuca,  we  entered  the  safe  Bay  of  San  Fran- 
cisco do  Sul. 

"Letters  of  introduction  are  great  things  in  Brazil.  They  have 
smoothed  the  way  for  me  everywhere  previous  to  arriving  at  this 
port,  and  I  here  find  no  exception  to  the  general  rule  expressed 
in  the  line  above.  Mr.  Y.,  the  agent  of  the  steamer,  received  me 
very  kindly,  and  my  boxes  were  soon  despatched  and  landed  upon 
the  beach,  which  was  filled  with  fishermen,  mulatto  women,  half- 
naked  children,  and  an  indescribable  lot  of  sundries  in  the  shape 
of  timber,  rice  spread  out  to  dry,  canoes  drawn  up,  &c.  ko.  In 
another  hour  the  steamer  had  rounded  the  promontory,  and  was 
soon  out  of  sight  on  its  way  to  Desterro.  So,  for  the  present,  1 
will  say, — Adeos." 

Note  for  1S66. — The  Saude  School,  referred  to  in  this  chapter,  Las  been  the  means 
of  great  good  at  Rio ;  and,  though  its  chief  patroness,  Mrs.  Jane  S.  D.  Garrett,  has 
returned  to  England,  thus  leaving  a  void  not  easily  filled,  it  is  steadily  accom- 
plishing its  good  work.  An  acknowledgment  for  hospitality  received  is  here  due 
Mrs.  Garrett,  the  recollection  of  whose  home  in  the  Larangeiras  will  long  be  one 
of  the  "  pleasures  of  memory."  The  junior  author,  during  his  visits  of  1862,  '63, 
'64,  and  '65,  received  in  Rio  much  kindness  from  the  Swiss  family  of  Mr.  Gustave 
Lutz,  and  in  the  American  homes  of  Mr.  George  N.  Davis,  Mr.  Henry  E.  Milford, 
and  Mr.  John  Hayes.  It  gives  us  pleasure  also  to  recognize  the  courtesies 
of  Admiral  Tamandar^,  Senhora  Andrade  e  Pinto,  (of  the  Rua  St.  Ignacio,)  the 
Baron  de  Maua,  Sr.  Militao  Maximo  de  Souza,  Mr.  W.  G.  Ginty,  and  Mr.  Bennett. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

THE  PKOVINCE  OF  PARANA — MESSAGE  OF  ITS  FIRST  PRESIDENT — MATE,  OR  PARA- 
GUAY TEA — ITS  CULTURE  AND  PREPARATION — GROWS  IN  NORTH  CAROLINA — SAN 
FRANCISCO  DO  SUlA— EXPECTATIONS  NOT  FULFILLED — CANOE-VOYAGE — MY  COM- 
PANIONS NOT  WHOLLY  CARNIVOROUS — A  TRAVELLED  TRUNK— THE  TOLLING-BELL 
BIRD — ARRIVAL  AT  JOINVILLE — A  NEW  SETTLEMENT — CIRCULAR  ON  EMIGRATION 
TO  BRAZIL. 

The  province  of  Parana,  whose  chief  port,  Paranagna,  I  had 
just  left,  merits  a  still  further  mention.  It  commenced  its  full 
provincial  career  about  the  year  1853,  though  for  a  number  of 
years  previously  projects  had  been  entei'tained  in  the  General 
Assembly  at  Rio  to  set  off  the  comarca  of  Curitiba  from  San  Paulo 
as  a  distinct  province.  As  to  its  limits,  they  are  essentially 
those  of  the  old  district  of  Curitiba.  Its  first  President,  Zacarias 
de  Goes  e  Yasconcellos,  was  Minister  of  Marine  in  1852-53,  and  is 
one  of  the  instances  so  frequent  in  Brazil  of  a  j^oung  man  who. 
rising  rapidly  by  his  talents,  attains  the  highest  positions  of  State. 
He  is  probably  the  youngest  person  ever  called  to  take  a  seat  in 
the  Imperial  Cabinet,  where  by  his  eloquence  and  by  his  readiness 
at  response  (for  the  ministers  are  interpellated  as  formerly  in 
France  and  as  now  in  England)  he  rose  to  an  eminent  place  among 
the  statesmen  of  Brazil. 

In  1854,  he  opened  for  the  first  time  the  Provincial  Assembly  of 
Parana,  and  his  Relatorios  (messages)  of  that  year  and  the  follow- 
ing, now  both  before  me,  display  ability  and  research. 

He  places  the  population  at  62,000,  only  one-sixth  of  which  is 
composed  of  slaves;  and,  if  his  statistics  be  correct,  the  province  of 
Parana  must  enjoy  a  salubrity  beyond  any  other  portion  of  the 
world, — the  births  exceeding  the  deaths  between  two  and  three 
hundred  per  cent. 

He  enforces  upon  the  legislators  the  duty  of  making  the  com- 
mon-school education  far  more  obligatory  than  it  is.  "Primary 
320 


Education  and  Paraguay  Tea.  321 

instruction,"  he  urges,  "is  more  than  a  mere  right  of  the  child,  a 
duty  discharged  toward  him;  it  is  a  rigorous  obligation.  It  is 
thus  that  you  (the  rej)resentatives)  should  consider  and  dispose  of 
the  subject  in  the  legislation  of  the  new  province. 

''The  people  oblige  themselves  to  be  vaccinated.  They  respond 
to  this  without  fail,  for  vaccination  is  a  preservative  from  fatal 
pestilence. 

"Now,  primary  instruction  is,  so  to  speak,  a  moral  vaccine,  which 
preserves  the  people  from  that  worst  of  pestilences, — ignorance, — 
from  those  crude  notions  which  brinff  man  to  the  level  of  the  brute, 
and  which  change  him  into  the  fit  and  facile  instrument  for  rob- 
bery, assassination,  revolution,  and,  in  fine,  for  all  evil. 

"Primary  education  is  more:  it  is  a  kind  of  baptism  with  which 
man  is  regenerated  from  the  dark  ignorance  in  which  he  is  born, 
and  truly  effects  his  entrance  into  civil  society  and  into  the  enjoy- 
ment of  those  rights  and  privileges  which  are  his  heritage." 

When  we  consider  what  arc  the  views  of  Eoman  Catholics  in  re- 
gard to  baptism,  we  can  see  the  force  of  the  remarks  of  Senhor 
Zacarias. 

The  President  does  not  merely  confine  his  attention  to  the  early 
training  of  the  youth  of  his  provincial  charge,  but  his  remarks  m 
reference  to  the  various  branches  of  agriculture  show  him  to  be 
a  man  of  enlarged  vicAvs,  and  that  he  is  as  read}'  to  combat  indo- 
lence as  ignorance.  He  alludes  to  the  fact  that  wheat  was  for- 
merly not  only  an  article  of  cultivation  in  the  fertile  comarca  of 
Curitiba,  but  that  it  was  exported.  This  branch  of  agriculture  is 
now  almost  abandoned,  and,  according  to  his  statements,  because  a 
large  portion  of  the  population,  eschewing  the  labor  required  in  the 
production  of  the  cereals,  rush  to  the  virgin  forests,  and  there, 
stripping  the  evergreen  leaves  and  the  tender  branches  of  the  Ilex 
Paraguayensis,  easily  convert  them  into  the  popular  South  American 
beverage  known  as  the  yerba  mate  or  herva  Parnguaya,  and  thus 
amass  fortunes  or  obtain  a  livelihood  without  the  intervention  of 
persevering  industry  or  great  exertion. 

Large  quantities  of  this  kind  of  tea  are  annually  exported  from 
the  province  of  Parana.  Senhor  Zacarias  would  not  have  the  tea- 
bearing  Ilex  uprooted  to  produce  the  same  effect  as  the  vigorous 

Marquis  de  Pombal  brought  about  by  the  destruction,  in  the  last 

21 


322  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

century,  of  tlio  vineyards  of  Portugal;  but  he  wishes  to  control  its 
gathering,  to  moderate  the  inclinations  and  the  causes  that  push 
the  people  into  this  branch  of  labor  for  a  few  months  and  then 
leave  them  indolent  for  the  remainder  of  the  year. 

The  mate  of  Paraguay,  doubtless  from  prejudice,  is  considered 
superior  in  quality  to  that  of  Parana;  but  the  inhabitants  of  the 
interior  neighboring  Spanish  provinces  prefer  the  former  to  the 
latter,  as  they  are  accustomed  to  use  the  beverage  without  sugar; 
while  in  the  cities  of  Buenos  Ayres  and  Montevideo  the  former  is 
the  favorite,  and  is  almost  always  sweetened  before  consumption. 

In  the  interior  of  the  province  of  San  Paulo,  after  my  visit  to 
Santa  Catharina,  I  met  with  an  American  physician,  a  man  of 
great  scientific  tastes  and  acquirements,  who  has  taken  up  his 
residence  in  South  America  for  the  purpose  of  research  in  his 
favorite  study  of  botany.  In  the  course  of  many  interesting  con- 
versations with  him  in  regard  to  the  various  vegetable  riches  and 
wonders  of  the  surrounding  regions,  I  was  not  a  little  pleased  to 
find  that  he  was  pei-fectly  acquainted  with  the  mode  of  prepara- 
tion, as  well  as  the  class  and  family,  of  the  plant  in  question. 
Mate,  as  I  have  already  mentioned,  is  the  name  of  the  prepared 
article  of  the  tree  or  shrub  which  is  commonly  known  to  botanists 
as  the  Ilex  Paraguayensis.  It  is  classified  by  Yon  Mai'tius  as  be- 
longing to  the  lihamnee  fixmily,  and  he  gives  it  the  scientific  name 
of  Cassine  Gongonlia.  The  Spaniards  usually  denominate  it  Yerba 
de  Paraguay,  or  mate. 

While  in  Paranagua,  I  obsei'ved  many  raw-hide  cases  which  the 
blacks  were  unloading  from  mules  or  conveying  to  the  ships  riding 
at  anchor  in  the  beautiful  bay.  Upon  inquiry,  I  learned  that  these 
packages,  weighing  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  pounds  each, 
consisted  of  mate.  This  substance,  so  little  known  out  of  South 
America,  forms  truly  the  principal  refreshing  beverage  of  the 
Spanish  Americans  south  of  the  Equator,  and  millions  of  dollars  are 
annually  expended  in  Buenos  Ayres,  Bolivia,  Peru,  and  Chili  in  its 
consumption.  This  town  of  Paranagua,  containing  about  three 
thousand  inhabitants,  exports  every  year  ncai^ly  a  million  of  dollars' 
worth  of  mate. 

In  Brazil  and  in  Paraguay  it  can  be  gathei'cd  during  the  whole 
year.     Parties  go  into  the  forest,  or  places  where  it  abounds,  and 


Paraguay  Tea  in  Xorth  Carolina.  3'23 

Dreak  off  the  branches  with  the  leaves.  A  process  of  kihi-dryiug  is 
resorted  to  in  the  woods,  and  afterward  the  branches  and  leaves  are 
transported  to  some  rude  mill,  and  there  they  are  by  water-power 
pounded  in  mortars. 

The  substance,  after  this  operation,  is  almost  a  powder,  though 
small  stems  denuded  of  their  bark  are  alwaj^s  permitted  to  remain. 
By  this  simple  process  the  mate  is  prepared  for  market.  Its  pre- 
paration for  di'inking  is  equally  simple.  A  small  quantity  of  the 
leaf,  either  with  or  without  sugar,  is  placed  in  a  common  bowl,  upon 
which  cold  water  is  poured.  After  standing  a  short  time,  boiling 
water  is  added,  and  it  is  at  once  ready  for  use.  Americans  who 
have  visited  Buenos  Ayres  or  Montevideo  may  remember  to  have 
seen,  on  a  fine  summer  evening,  the  denizens  of  that  portion  of  the 
world  engaged  in  sipping,  through  long  tubes  inserted  into  highly- 
ornamented  cocoanut  bowls,  a  liquid  which,  though  not  so  palata- 
ble as  iced  juleps,  is  certainly  far  less  harmful.  These  citizens  of 
Montevideo  and  Buenos  Ajtcs  were  enjoying  with  their  bombilhas 
a  refreshing  draught  of  mate.  It  must  be  imbibed  through  a  tube, 
on  account  of  the  particles  of  leaf  and  stem  which  float  upon  the 
surface  of  the  liquid.  This  tube  has  a  fine  globular  strainer  at 
the  end. 

Great  virtues  are  ascribed  to  this  tea.  It  supplies  the  place  of 
meat  and  drink.  Indians  who  have  been  laboring  at  the  oar  all 
day  feel  immediately  refreshed  by  a  cup  of  the  herb  mixed  simply 
with  river-water.  In  Chili  and  Peru  the  people  believe  that  they 
could  not  exist  without  it,  and  many  persons  take  it  every  hour 
of  the  day.  Its  use  was  learned  from  the  natives;  but,  having  been 
adopted,  it  spread  among  the  Spaniards  and  Portuguese,  until  the 
demand  became  so  great  as  to  render  the  herb  of  Paraguay  almost 
as  fatal  to  the  Indians  of  this  part  of  America  as  mines  and  pearl- 
fisheries  had  been  elsewhere. 

It  gi'ows  wild,  and  never  has  been  successfully  cultivated, 
although  attempts  were  made  by  the  Jesuits  of  Paraguay  to  trans- 
plant it  from  the  forests  to  their  plantations.  These  attempts  have 
been  considered  by  many  without  result;  still,  there  are  others  who 
consider  that  the  experiment  justifies  further  efforts,  and  are  urging 
this  day  the  domestication,  so  to  speak,  and  the  cultivation,  of  mate 
under  a  regular  system. 


324  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

But  that  -which  astonished  me  most  in  the  doctor's  conversation 
was  the  statement  that  a  shrub  simihir  to  the  Ilex  Paragvayensis 
was  indigenous  to  the  United  States,  and  that  a  decoction  of  its 
leaves  and  branches  was  actually  used  as  a  beverage  in  the  region 
where  it  grew. 

His  life  had  been  full  of  adventure  in  every  portion  of  the  globe  j 
and,  when  he  was  a  younger  man,  he  roamed  over  each  Southern 
and  Western  State,  hunting  for  the  weed  which  was  vulgarly  sup- 
posed to  cause  the  "milk-sickness."  Although  he  did  not  find  the 
cause  of  that  disease,  which  has  so  damaged  manj^  a  speculation  in 
Western  towns  and  villages,  yet  he  made  the  acquaintance  of  a 
little  tree  in  North  CaroHna,  from  the  leaves  of  which  many  of 
the  country -people  of  the  old  North  State  ''make  tea."  If  I  re- 
member rightly,  he  informed  me  that  it  was  the  Ilex  euponia;  but 
scientific  readers  must  not  hold  me  responsible  for  this  name,  as 
my  note-book  may  probably  mislead  me.     A  few  years  afterward, 

Dr. was  in-  this,  the  most  glorious  field  for  a  botanist  in  the 

world, — this  Southern  Brazil,  whose  magnificent  flora  has  been  the 
Avild  delight  of  every  favored  follower  of  Linnaeus  who  has  been 
permitted  to  enter  it.  In  the  course  of  his  rambles  he  encountered 
the  Ilex  Paraguayensis,  and  immediately  saluted  it  as  his  old  ac- 
quaintance (under  features  but  little  diiferent)  of  North  Carolina. 
Some  months  elapsed,  and  he  visited  Paranagua;  and  he  was  almost 
as  much  surprised  at  another  discover}',  which  was  not,  however, 
in  the  botanical  hne.  He  found,  in  this  out-of-the-way  part  of 
Brazil,  an  American  woman  engaged  in  the  delightful  art  of 
preparing  feijoes  and  toucinho  (pork  and  beans)  for  natives  and 
foreigners  who  might  patronize  her  establishment.  In  conversa- 
tion with  Dr.  in  regard  to  the  mate,  she  exclaimed,  "Why, 

doctor,  this  is  the.  same  truck  we  use  in  CaroUner  to  make  tea." 
Here  was  a  most  striking  confirmation  of  the  true  conclusion 
of  science. 

Now,  if  this  tree  or  bush  really  abounds  in  North  Carolina,  why 
may  not  the  enterprise  of  some  of  her  citizens  add  to  the  exports 
(laid  down  in  every  geography  as  tar,  tobacco,  turpentine,  and 
lumber)  mate?  Brazil  and  Paraguay  are  reaping  their  millions 
from  a  shrub  which  grows  spontaneously^,  and  the  subject  is  really 
worth  investiucation  in  the  United  States. 


San  Francisco  do  Sul.  325 

Returning  from  the  new  province  of  Parana,  attention  "will  be 
now  directed  to  the  province  of  Santa  Catharina. 

San  Francisco  is  an  ancient  town  which  has  evidently  seen  tetter 
daj'S.  The  arrival  of  a  stranger  with  such  a  peculiar  cargo  as 
mine  created  quite  a  sensation  in  the  usually-stagnant  society  of 
this  northern  portion  of  the  province  of  Santa  Catharina.  All  the 
idlers,  gossipers,  men  of  business,  and  even  the  Padres  came  to  see 
the  new  books.  The  priest  found  no  objection  to  them,  and  two 
hours  had  not  elapsed  before  the}^  were  all  disposed  of,  and  I  made 
my  arrangements  to  ascend  the  river  San  Francisco  do  Sul  to  the 
German  and  French  colonies  founded  on  the  lands  once  belonging 
to  the  Prince  de  Joinville. 

In  the  mean  time,  with  Mi'.  V.  and  two  new  acquaintances,  both 
Germans,  1  strolled  around  the  town,  which  is  finely  situated 
on  an  island  separated  from  the  mainland  only  by  a  very  small 
stream.  Before  us  stretched  a  bay  three  miles  in  width  and  six  in 
length.  It  is  well  protected  from  the  ocean,  and  in  it  is  discharged 
the  river  San  Francisco  do  Sul,  Avhich  flows  from  the  mountains 
that  rear  their  green  summits  far  in  the  distance.  That  lofty  ridge, 
in  its  highest  elevation,  is  more  than  four  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  from  its  inland  base  to  the  rich  plain  where 
Curitiba  is  situated  there  is  a  gradual  ascent  of  twenty  miles. 
With  an  energetic  people,  this  district — which  in  regard  to  fertility 
and  climate  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world — would  bloom  with  a 
cultivation  not  surpassed  by  the  rich  fields  of  Lombardy  or  the 
model  farms  of  Midlothian. 

Great  hopes  were  entertained  at  the  beginning  of  this  century 
that  San  Francisco  do  Sul  would  become  a  flourishing  mart,  on 
account  of  the  road  which  would  open  the  high  plains  to  the  com- 
merce of  the  bay.  Furthermore,  there  was  great  activity  at  that 
time,  the  chief  occupation  of  the  inhabitants  consisting  in  ship- 
building and  in  the  cutting  of  timber.  Vessels  of  large  dimensions 
were  formerly  built  here,  as  well  as  coasters,  at  the  order  of  mer- 
chants from  Rio,  Bahia,  and  Pernambuco.  The  wood  used  was  so 
strong,  holding  the  iron  so  firmly,  that  ships  built  of  it  were  of  the 
most  durable  quality,  and  were  in  greater  esteem  with  the  Portu- 
guese and  Spaniards  than  those  built  in  Europe.  In  1808,  Mr. 
Mawe,  one  of  the  earliest  English  voyagers  in  Brazil,  wrote  that, 


326  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

on  account  of  its  sliii>building,  "the  harboi-  of  San  Francisco  do 
Sul  is  likely  to  become  of  considerable  value  to  Brazil;  and  if  it 
be  connected  with  Curitiba,  the  cattle  of  which  have  been  found 
Bu^icrior  to  those  of  Eio  Grande,  there  is  every  probability  that  at 
no  distant  day  the  Portuguese  navy  will  touch  here  to  be  supplied 
with  salt  provisions." 

As  I  look-ed  upon  the  silent  streets  of  San  Francisco, — as  I  be- 
held its  bay  innocent  of  any  vessel  except  the  smallest  coasters, 
and  its  once-busy  shipyards  containing  but  two  small  mandioca 
sloops  upon  the  stocks, — I  thought  how  wide  a  difference  there  was 
between. the  reality  of  the  present  and  the  sjseculations  of  half 
a  century  ago  in  regard  to  the  commercial  activity  and  future 
growth  of  the  town,  situated  upon  the  waters  of  Bahitonga,  by 
which  name  the  natives  called  the  bay.  It  was  thought  that  the 
establishment  of  a  colony  of  Europeans  in  the  vicinity  of  the  de- 
caying town  would  resuscitate  it;  but  thus  far  there  has  been  no 
such  result,  and  I  fear  that  many  a  year  will  elapse  before  this 
can  be  accomplished. 

I  determined  to  start  for  the  colony  at  an  early  hour  the  next 
morning,  and  to  this  end  Mr.  V.  kindly  sought  for  a  canoe  belong- 
ing to  a  gigantic  slave  who  rejoiced  in  the  appropriate  name  of 
Jose  Grande.  After  nightfall  the  African  made  his  appearance, 
and  it  was  settled  that  we  should  commence  our  trip  at  three  and 
a  half  o'clock  in  the  morning. 

Mr.  V.  regretted  that  the  circumstance  of  his  boarding  prevented 
his  offering  me  his  hosjDitality,  but  recommended  me  to  a  hotel,  or, 
more  properly  speaking,  a  regular  countiy-inn,  which  had  just 
been  opened  by  a  German  from  the  colony  of  Donna  Francisca. 
My  experience  in  that  establishment  was  at  the  time  detailed  in  a 
letter  to  a  friend  at  Eio : — 

"Ilerr  Sneider,  mine  host,  and  all  his  family,  spoke  scarcely 
any  thing  but  German,  and  as  much  of  English  and  Portuguese 
as  can  be  compressed  into  'yes'  and  'Sim,  Senhor.'  By-the-way, 
I  have  picked  up  a  certain  quantum  of  that  same  jaw-breaking 
language  of  Goethe  and  Schiller,  which  I  have  neglected  since  my 
university  days  for  the  tongues  of  Southern  Europe.  My  supper 
was  perfectly  German;  for  it  closed  with  beer,  which,  in  default  of 
barley,  had  been  made  fx-om  rice,  that  abounds  in  this  vicinity. 


Herr  Sneider's  Inn.  327 

Having  finished  my  repast,  I  gave  orders  that,  as  they  had  pre- 
pared supper  enough  for  three  men,  the  remainder  should  be 
arranged  for  my  breakfast  in  the  canoe,  as  it  would  be  entirely 
too  early  to  partake  of  that  meal  before  embarking. 

"  We  then  had  a  mutual -instruction  society, — an  exchange  of  Eng- 
lish and  German.  How  many  children  there  were  I  cannot  say; 
but  there  was  any  quantity  of  blooming  fresh  frauleins  from  nine- 
teen yeai's  and  dowiiward,  together  with  a  number  of  health}^,  rosy 
boys.  It  had  been  so  long  since  I  had  looked  upon  blue-eyed  and 
tair-haired  children  that  they  were  quite  a  curiosity.  Having 
occasion  to  see  Mr.  Y.  before  retiring,  I  said  to  them,  '  I  go  now  to 
Mr.  V.'s:  when  I  return,  I  wish  to  have  a  large  room  and  a  good 
clean  bed.'  A  patron  of  the  inn  informed  me  that  I  should  be 
thus  accommodated  in  every  particular. 

"When  I  again  entered  Herr  Sneider's,  I  was  told  that  my  room 
was  ready,  and,  upon  ni}"  signifjnng  my  intention  to  go  to  bed,  the 
whole  family, — Herr  S.,  Frau  S.,  Frauleins  S.,  and  the  bo3-s, — to  m}' 
astonishment,  followed  me  to  the  apartment,  which  proceeding  I 
did  not  fancy,  because  it  did  not  seem  quite  convenable,  taking  into 
view  the  feminine  portion  of  the  procession.  I,  however,  concluded 
to  be  led  to  my  quarters,  of  which  I  entertained  the  highest  ex- 
pectations. These  expectations  w^ere  realized  so  far  as  the  size  of 
the  chamber  was  concerned ;  but,  unfortunately,  mine  was  not  the 
only  bed  in  it,  for  there  were  four  or  five  others,  filled  with  snoring 
occupants.  I  determined  to  be  gracious  and  make  no  complaint, 
for  assuredly  my  clean  sheets  would  make  up  for  a  little  too  much 
of  society.  So,  pulling  down  the  supposed  coverlet,  I  found  that  it 
was  a  feather-bed  for  a  regular  Prussian  winter.  These  Germans, 
when  they  left  Fatherland,  could  conceive  of  no  country  whei-e 
wintei'  and  snow  could  not  evep  be  exotic.  I  discovei-ed  also  that, 
instead  of  the  good,  healthy,  and  hard  Brazilian  mattress,  there 
was  a  second  huge  feather-bed ;  and  I  must  thrust  myself  between 
these.  When  my  eyes  got  beyond  the  first,  I  found  my  clean 
sheets  to  be  of  the  color  of  the  dirty  Minas  cotton  which  so  plentifully 
(or  scantily,  as  the  case  may  be)  clothes  the  slaves  throughout  the 
Empire.  A  closer  inspection  informed  me  that  they  had  seen 
w^hiter  days,  and  had  also  made  the  acquaintance  of  manj^  other 
lodgers,  which  fact  I  roundly  asserted,  and  to  which  they  partly 


328  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

assented.  I,  however,  resolved  to  make  the  best  of  it,  when  they 
would  let  me, — for  they  hung  around  as  if  they  would  never  give 
me  the  opportunity  of  going  to  rest.  A  young  German  ship- 
chandler  had  his  bed  in  the  same  room,  and,  without  ceremony, 
commenced  to  divest  himself  befoi-e  the  company  preparatory  to 
sleep.  This  I  could  hardly  do,  and  seated  myself  and  began  to 
read.  Finally  the  family  left  me,  with  many  schlafen  Sie  wohl. 
Having  read  as  long  as  I  wished,  I  determined  to  enter  my  bed, 
fortified  Avith  a  pair  of  pantaloons,  (I  had  not  forgotten  the 
sheets,)  which  after  a  time,  proving  rather  uncomfortable  w4th 
feather-beds,  I  threw  to  one  side.  But  this  operation  caused 
the  young  ship-chandler  much  concern;  for,  hearing  me  moving 
around  in  the  dark,  and  supposing  me  ill,  he  screamed  for  the 
family,  and  the  scene  which  ensued  is  indescribable  with  pen  : 
only  the  pencil  of  Eembrandt  could  depict  the  depth  of  shadow 
and  the  rich  chiaro-oscuro,  and  that  of  Teniers  the  ruddy, 
jolly  features  of  the  group  of  3'oung  Germans  thus  aroused 
to  see  what  was  the  matter  with  the  American,  who  by  this 
time  was  snugly  ensconced  in  his  bed  and  almost  bursting  with 
laughter. 

"I  slept  badly,  and  at  half-past  three  o'clock  heard  the  pon- 
derous step  of  Jose  Grande.  Following  him  through  the  deep 
gloom  that  hung  around,  we  (for  I  had  given  a  bright  German  lad 
permission  to  go  with  me)  entered  the  canoe,  Avhich  was  soon 
shoved  from  the  shore,  and  were  propelled  by  Jose  toward  Donna 
Francisca.  Young  German}^  and  myself  lay  down  in  the  bottom 
of  the  narrow  'dug-out.' 

"The  morning  was  dark  and  drizzly,  and  a  feeling  of  loneliness 
crept  over  me  as  1  lay  listening  to  the  pattering  raindrops  and  the 
dripping  oar  disturbing  the  oppressive  silence.  I  thought  of  those 
so 'dear  to  me,  but  who  now  were  separated  from  me  by  thousands 
of  miles  of  ocean ;  but  I  was  less  lonely  when  I  breathed  a  pi'ayer 
for  them  and  felt  in  my  heart  the  ever-cheering  sentiment  of 
poor  Pringle  : — 

•'  'A  still  small  voice  comes  through  the  wild, 
(Like  a  father  consoling  his  fretful  child,) 
Which  banishes  bitterness,  wrath,  and  fear, — 
Saying,  "Man  is  distant,  but  God  is  near!"  ' 


A  Travelled  Trunk.  '  329 

"I  tried  to  sleep,  but  it  was  impossible;  so,  after  three  hours,  I 
said  to  Jose,  '  We  will  breakfast.'  On  opening  the  budget,  I  found 
two  plates,  four  j)ieces  of  meat,  and — nothing  else, — not  even  a  knife 
and  fork;  but,  as  I  am  neither  a  lion,  a  vulture,  nor  even  a Guacho 
of  Corrientes,  I  could  not  bi*eakfast  on  flesh  alone.  The  rain  had 
now  ceased,  and  I  proposed  to  Jose  to  land  and  to  purchase  some- 
thing from  one  of  the  farm-houses  on  shore.  ^Ndo  tern  nada,  senhor,' 
('They  have  nothing,')  was  Jose's  sage  reply.  Nevertheless,  at  my 
request,  he  jDut  into  a  pretty  cove  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain,  and 
sallied  forth  for  a  bargain.  He  'soon  returned,  accompanied  by  a 
sickly-looking  boy,  bringing  oranges,  bananas,  and  enough  farinha 
for  four  men.  Young  Germany  and  myself  fell  to  work  while 
Jose's  strong  arm  was  sendijig  us  over  the  glassy  waters.  At  Eio 
de  Janeiro  I  had  often  looked  with  admiration  upon  the  slaves  in 
the  boats  stuffing  and  throwing  farinha  into  their  mouths;  but  I 
never  then  dreamed  that  I  should  employ  my  digits  for  the  same 
purposes.  I  must  admit,  however,  that  there  was  neither  grace- 
fulness nor  dexterity  on  my  part;  for  m^-  face  became  powdered 
with  the  efl^ort  to  'pitch  in'  the  farinha  d  la  Brazilienne.  We  had 
one  other  compagaon  de  voyage,  but  not  an  eating  one.  Faithful  old 
trunk  !  What  sketches  thou  mightest  give  of  Europe,  America, 
(North  and  South-,)  and  of  the  African  Isles ! — what  scenes  thou  hast 
witnessed  in  three  zones,  on  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific  Oceans, 
in  the  Straits  of  Majeilan  and  on  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  in  the 
Mexican  Gulf,  and,  lastly,  on  the  Eio  San  Francisco  do  Sul  I  Each 
time  that  I  open  thee,  and  see  there  imprinted  'W.  S.  Chase, 
trunk  and  harness  maker.  Providence,  E.I.,'  my  thoughts  run 
over  the  past,  and  I  recall  the  bright  summer-day  that  I  bought 
thee,  when  on  the  eve  of  my  first  voyage  '  over  the  seas  and 
far  away.'     Thou  callest  up  a  host  of  memories, — 

'  the  fond  recollections  of  former  years, —  , 

And  the  shadows  of  things  that  have  long  since  fled 
Flit  over  the  brain  like  the  ghosts  of  the  dead.' 

"Speaking  of  sketches,  I  send  yoxx  one  which  I  took  of  myself 
and  fellow-voyagers.  They  are  after  (a  very  long  way,  indeed) 
a  compound  of  Gainsborough  and  Turner,  with  a  slight  addition 
of  Wilkie  and  Kenny  Meadows  thrown  in." 


330 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


The  river  became  narrower,  and  every  moment  some  largo 
aquatic  bird  would  be  startled  by  our  voices  or  by  the  dash  of  the 
oar.  Now  it  would  be  a  beautif\il  white  ibis,  then  a  blue  heron  or 
a  band  of  dancing  cranes.     From  the  mangrove-bushes  and  the 


more  distant  woods  we  could  hear  the  sometimes  harsh  and  some- 
times musically-solemn  sound  of  the  uruponga,  or  tolling-bell  bird, 
making  the  air  resonant  with  its  peculiar  and  solitary  note.  I  had 
listened  again  and  again  to  these  birds  in  my  journeys  in  different 
parts  of  Brazil,  but  I  never  had  the  good  fortune  to  see  but  one, 
and  that  was  in  the  province  of  San  Paulo.  The  sound- which  the 
uruponga  (what  a  sweet  aboriginal  onomatope  !)  sends  forth  varies 
little,  but  it  can  always  be  said  to  bo  metallic.  To  hear  it  from 
afar,  it  is  not  unlike  the  tolling  of  a  bell;  but,  when  distance  does 
not  mellow  the  cadence,  it  is  more  like  striking  an  anvil  or  the 
filing  of  a  large  piece  of  iron.  To  listen  to  it  in  a  Brazilian  foi'cst 
at  mid-day,  ringing  forth  its  mournful  knell  when  every  other 
songster  is  mute,  powerfully  disposes  one 

"  To  musing  and  dark  melancholy." 

Wallace  says,  in  his  account  of  the  Amazonian  regions,  "We 
had  the  good  fortune  one  day  to  fall  in   with   a  small  flock  of 


The  Tolling-Bell  Bird. 


831 


URUPONGA,     OR 
TOLLING-BELL     BIRO. 


the  rare  and  curious   bell-bird,   (Casmaj'hynchos  carunculata,')  but 

they  were  on  a  very  thick,  lofty  tree,  and  took  flight  before  we 

could  get  a  shot  at  them.     Though  it  was  about  four  miles  off  in 

the  forest,  we  went  again  the  next  day,  and  found  them  feeding  on 

the  same  tree,  but  had  no  better  success.     On  the  third  day  we 

went  to  the  same  spot,  but  from  that  time  saw  them  no  more. 

The  bird  is  of  a  pure  white  color,  the  size 

of  a  blackbird,  has  a  broad  bill,  and  feeds 

on  fruits.     From  the  base  of  the  bill  above 

grows    a    fleshy    tubercle,    two    or    three 

inches  long  and  as  thick  as  a  quill,  sparingly 

clothed  with  minute  feathers :    it  is  quite 

lax,  and  hangs  down    on  one  side  of  the 

bird's   head.      The  bird  is  remarkable  for 

its  loud,  clear,  ringing  note, — like  a  bell, — 

which  it  utters  at  mid-day,  when  most  other  birds  are  silent." 

Waterton,  in  his  wanderings  in  Demerara,  often  alludes  to  the 
campanero,  (uruponga.)  In  one  passage  he  says,  "It  never  fails  to 
attract  the  attention  of  the 
passenger :  at  a  distance 
of  nearly  three  miles  you 
may  hear  this  snow-white 
bird  tolling  evevy  four  or 
five  minutes,  like  the  dis- 
tant convent-bell.  From 
six  to  nine  A.M.  the  forests 
resound  with  the  mingled 
strains  of  the  feathered 
race;  after  this  they  gra- 
dually die  away.  From 
eleven  to  three  all  nature 
is  hushed  in  midnight 
silence,  and  scarce  a  note 
is  heard  saving  that  of  the 


campanei'o. 

No  bird  has  been  more 
misrepresented   by  artists  than  the  uruponga.     The  mistake  has 
been  in  copying  stuffed  specimens.     The  accompanying  illustration 


332  Brazil  axd  the  Brazilians. 

is  one  of  many  that  represents  the  uruponga  with  a  stiff  horn  in 
the  unicorn  style.  The  body  is  well  enough,  but  the  rhinoceros- 
appendage  is  utterly  at  variance  with  nature.  The  little  engraving 
is  a  correct  likeness  of  this  singular  bird,  whose  small,  flexible,  and 
drooping  appendage  is  very  similar  to  that  which  is  a  part  and 
parcel  of  every  turkeycock. 

I  was  struck  by  the  fact  that,  though  the  aquatic  birds  were  at 
first  startled  by  us,  they  did  not  seem  to  have  much  fear.  They 
flapjied  their  great  wings  and  moved  slowly  from  us  a  few  paces, 
and  then  speedily  resumed  their  former  position. 

On,  on  sped  our  canoe  under  the  sturdy  strokes  of  Jose.  The 
scenery  was  still  more  striking  and  beautiful.  A  background  of 
high  mountains  was  prefaced  by  gentle  eminences  and  by  a  woody 
margin  of  bright-green  ti'ees.  Even  the  tall  African,  whom  no 
one  would  have  suspected  of  a  taste  for  these  glorious  views,  ex- 
claimed, from  time  to  time,  ^^E  muito  bonito,  senhor!"  ("It  is  very 
beautiful,  sir.")  By  the  way,  Jose  gave  me  his  idea  of  Protestants, 
— viz. :  people  who  were  not  baptized,  and  were  destined  to 
inferno. 

After  some  hours'  rowing,  the  river  became  exceedingly'  nari'ow, 
so  that  the  trees,  with  their  rich  parasites,  completely  overarched 
us.  This  was  near  the  new  village  of  Joinville,  in  the  colony  of 
Donna  Francisca.  "We  jumped  ashore,  tied  our  canoe  to  the  stump 
of  a  recently-fallen  tree,  and  tramped  over — or,  rather,  througli — a 
road  which  was  like  a  sponge  soaked  with  water.  Here,  indeed, 
was  the  beginning  of  a  new  town  in  the  wilderness, — houses  stuck 
down  in  the  woods,  and  plenty  of  mud  and  children  :  but  for  the 
difference  of  the  flora,  I  would  have  believed  myself  beyond  the 
Missouri,  on  the  borders  of  Kansas.  On  every  side  the  forest  was 
to  be  seen,  and  here  and  there  an  opening,  in  the  centre  of  which 
was  the  cabin  of  the  colonist.  The  smallness  and  newness  of  the 
houses,  the  deadened  trees,  the  muddy  streets,  and  the  general 
appearance  of  eveiy  thing,  reminded  me  of  a  pioneer  settlement 
in  the  West.  It  was  curious  to  see  men  from  the  Ehine,  and 
some  from  the  environs  of  Berlin,  here  planted  amid  wild  woods, 
in  cottages  of  the  rudest  construction,  thatched  with  palm- 
leaves. 

The  "Hotel"  of  Herr  Palma  was  my  goal,  and  a  hearty  welcome 


The  Welcome.  333 

awaited  mc;  for  the  letters  of  Mr.  Y.,  in  addition  to  the  pros- 
pect of  gain  from  the  stranger,  prompted  it.  The  German  cannot 
forget  his  native  land ;  and  one  glance  showed  me  'that,  though 
hard  work  must  necessarily  be  the  morning,  noon,  and  night  regime 
of  the  colonist  in  these  woods,  yet  here  were  all  the  appliances  for 
amusement, — a  ballroom,  a  gallery  for  the  orchestra,  and  a  ten-pin 
alley.  Mine  host  sent  immediately  for  the  schoolmaster,  so  that 
I  might  receive  every  mark  of  honor  and  disfinguished  village- 
consideration. 

Note  for  1S66. — In  regard  to  emigration  from  the  South  of  the  United  States, 
I  here  insert  the  circular  issued  by  Sr.  Galvao,  the  official  agent  at  Rio,  and  coun- 
tersigned by  the  Brazilian  Consul-General  at  New  York:  — 

"EMIGRATION  TO  BRAZIL. 
"The  Imperial  Government  loolis  with  sympathy  and  interest  on  American  emi- 
gration to  Brazil,  and  is  resolved  to  give  it  the  most  favorable  consideration.  Emi- 
grants will  find  an  abundance  of  fertile  land,  suitable  for  the  culture  of  cotton, 
sugar-cane,  coffee,  tobacco,  rice,  etc.  These  lands  are  situated  in  the  provinces 
of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  Santa  Catharina,  Parang,  Sao  Paulo,  Espirito  Santo,  and 
Rio  de  .Janeiro ;  and  each  emigrant  may  select  his  own  lands.  As  soon  as  the 
emigrant  has  chosen  his  land,  it  will  be  measured  by  the  Government,  and  posses- 
sion given  on  payment  of  the  price  stipulated.  Unoccupied  lands  will  be  sold  at 
the  rate  of  23,  46,  70,  or  90  cents  per  acre,  to  be  paid  before  taking  possession, 
or  sold  for  terms  of  five  years,  the  emigrants  paying  six  per  cent,  interest  yearly, 
and  receiving  the  title  of  property  only  after  having  paid  for  the  land  sold.  The 
laws  in  force  grant  many  favors  to  emigrants,  such  as  exemption  from  import 
duties  on  all  objects  of  personal  use,  implements  of  trade,  and  agricultural  im- 
plements and  machinery.  Emigrants  will  enjoy  under  the  Constitution  of  the 
Empire  all  civil  rights  and  liberties  which  belong  to  native-born  Brazilians.  They 
will  enjoy  liberty  of  conscience  in  religious  matters,  and  will  not  be  persecuted 
for  their  religious  belief.  Emigrants  may  become  naturalized  citizens  after  two 
years'  residence  in  the  Empire,  and  will  be  exempt  from  all  military  duties  except 
the  National  Guard  (militia)  in  the  municipality.  No  slaves  can  be  imported  into 
Brazil  from  any  country  whatever.  Emigration  of  agriculturists  and  mechanics 
is  particularly  desired.  Good  engineers  are  in  demand  in  the  Empire.  Some 
railroads  are  in  construction  and  others  in  project:  besides  there  are  many  roads 
to  be  built  and  rivers  to  be  navigated.  On  sale,  at  the  disposal  of  emigrants, 
lands  of  the  best  qualities,  belonging  to  private  persons.  These  lands,  varying 
in  price  from  $1.40  to  $7.00  per  acre,  are  suitable  for  the  growth  of  coffee,  sugar- 
cane, cotton,  tobacco,  rice,  Indian  corn,  etc.,  and  may  be  obtained  in  every  con- 
dition, from  virgin  forest  to  that  in  a  complete  state  of  cultivation." 


/ 


Chapter  xvm. 

COLONIA    DONNA    FRANCISCA THE    SCHOOL-TEACHER THE    CLERGYMAN A    TURK 

BIBLE-DISTBIBUTION SUSPECTED A  B  C THE    FALLEN    FOREST THE    HOUSE    OP 

THE       DIRECTOR A     RUNAWAY THE     VILLAGE      CEMETERY MORAL       WANTS 

ORCHIDACEOUS    PLANTS CHARLATANISM SAN    FRANCISCO    JAIL — THE    BURIAL    OF 

THE    INNOCENT,  AND    THE   MONEY-MAKING   PADRE THE    PROVINCE    OF  STA.  CATHA- 

ItlNA DESTERRO BEAUTIFUL  SCENERY SHELLS   AND  BUTTERFLIES COAL-MINES 

PROVINCE    OF    RIO    GRANDE     DO    SUL  —  HERDS    AND    HERDSMEN THE     LASSO 

INDIANS FORMER    PROVINCIAL    REVOLTS PRESENT    TRANQUILLITY    ASSURED    BY 

THE    OVERTHROW    OF    ROSAS,   AND   OF   THE  PARAGUAYAN   LOPEZ   JR. 

The  Colonia  Donna  Francisca  is  a  new  enterprise,  whose  origin 
may  be  stated  in  a  few  words.  In  1843,  Prince  de  Joinville  mar- 
ried Donna  Francisca,  tlie  sister  of  tlie  Emperor  of  Brazil.  Witti 
her  hand  he  received,  as  a  dower,  a  large  forest-estate  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Santa  Catharina.  A  few  yeai's  ago,  at  some  of  the 
watering-places  of  Germany,  the  Prince  met  with  Senator  Schroeder, 
of  Hamburg,  who  proposed  to  him  a  plan  for  making  his  dower 
profitable, — viz. :  to  grant  a  certain  portion  of  land  to  a  company, 
who  should  form  a  colony  upon  it.  The  Prince  granted  nine  square 
leagues,  reserving  a  certain  number  of  acres  for  himself  in  the  most 
desirable  situations.  The  company  was  formed,  and  agreed  to 
bring  out  some  sixteen  hundred  colonists  within  a  given  time. 
From  March,  1851,  to  March,  1855,  the  number,  according  to  con- 
tract, had  arrived.  The  greater  portion  of  the  colonists  are  from 
German  Switzerland,  though  France  and  Germany  are  represented 
by  a  respectable  minority.  The  village  of  Joinville  contains  about 
sixty  houses;  in  the  surrounding  country  there  are  one  hundred 
and  twenty  buildings,  and  others  in  construction.  After  deducting 
deaths,  there  are  something  like  fifteen  hundred  inhabitants  in  this 
colony;    while  there  are  a  considerable  number  of   French,  and 

French  Swiss,  in  an  adjoining  colony  founded  by  Prince  de  Joinville 
834 


The  Teacher  a^d   the  Clergyman.      335 

on  his  own  lands.  Two-thirds  of  all  the  colonists  are  doubtless 
Protestants,  while  the  other  third  are  Romanists. 

What  will  be  the  success  of  the  colony  remains  to  be  seen.  The 
colonists,  with  few  exceptions,  are  not  of  the  first  class  who  seek 
the  Xew  World;  and  doubtless  the  compan}-,  wishing  to  fulfil  their 
contract  as  to  numbers,  were  not  by  any  means  careful  in  the 
selection  of  the  emigi-ants.  They  are  obliged  to  pay  for  their  land, 
which  is  much  dearer  than  in  the  United  States,  and,  having  the 
thick  forests  to  fell,  are  soon  out  of  funds.  Their  distance  from 
any  market,  and  the  impossibility  of  obtaining  remunerating  ci'ops 
until  the  hard  labors  of  the  pioneer  are  performed  in  the  unbi-oken 
wild  wood,  operate  powerfully  against  all  but  the  most  courageous 
hearts.  With  lands,  however,  (which  the  company  has  now  ob- 
tained,) away  from  the  low  district  bordering  the  river,  the  prospect 
will  be  brighter.  I  am  nevertheless  convinced  that  the  best  means 
of  colonizing  Brazil  is  not  by  private  speculation  in  village-lots  and 
farming-grounds. 

Herr  Palma  returned,  accompanied  by  the  school-teacher.  The 
latter  was  a  dandified-looking  gentleman,  dressed  in  the  latest 
Parisian  fashion,  but  withal  a  person  not  wanting  in  ability  or  in 
acquirements;  for  at  bis  rooms  I  found  chemical  apparatus,  with 
which  he  was  constantly  experimenting,  and  I  also  ascertained 
that  he  was  an  engineer  and  an  artist  of  no  ordinary  merit.  He 
offered  his  services  to  go  with  me  to  the  Lutheran  clergyman,  and 
to  be  at  my  disposition  generally.  To  the  clei-gyman  I  had  n( 
letters.  In  a  few  moments  I  was  at  his  house,  which  was  most 
scantily  furnished:  indeed,  I  have  rarely  seen  in  the  backwoods  of 
the  United  States  a  minister  surrounded  with  so  little  comfort,  or 
so  few  of  the  necessaries  of  life.  He  spoke  neither  French  nor 
Portuguese,  and  his  stock  of  English  exceeded  very  little  my  stock 
of  German;  so  that  I  had  great  difficulty  in  making  him  compre- 
hend my  mission.  I  attempted  to  be  more  explicit  through  the 
teacher,  to  whom  I  spoke  in  French,  ■which  he  translated  into  Ger- 
man. Still  he  did  not  seem  to  comprehend,  and  I  left  his  house 
feeling  somewhat  discouraged  at  my  reception,  especially  when  I 
contrasted  it  with  the  warm  co-operation  which  I  had  received 
from  the  Lutheran  clergyman  at  Petropolis. 

In   the   mean    time   a  rumor   ran   through   the  village   that  a 


336  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

strano-er  Avitb  Bibles  had  arrived,  and  when  I  returned  to  the  little 
inn  I  had  as  much  as  I  could  do  to  attend  to  the  visitors.  Anaong 
them  was  an  accomplished  and  refined  lady,  the  daughter  of  an 
LL.D.  of  Hamburg,  and  wife  of  the  head-director  of  Prince  de 
Joinville's  colony,  which  must  not  be  confounded  witb  the  Ham- 
burg colony  in  Joinville.  My  German  Bibles  and  Portuguese 
Testaments  were  soon  exhausted,  but  I  had  some  still  left  at  San 
Francisco,  for  which  they  paid  me  the  money,  and  I  sent  them  the 
next  day  after  my  return. 

The  clergyman  now  joined  us.  He  was  a  little  more  cordial 
this  time.  I  invited  him  and  the  school-teacher  to  take  tea  with 
me.  During  the  repast,  the  latter  left  us  a  few  moments,  and 
then  returned;  but  while  he  was  absent,  the  clergyman  said  to  me, 
"  How  did  you  become  acquainted  with  the  teacher  ?  He  is  a  turn- 
coat." I  then  understood  his  reserve,  and  non-comprehension  of 
my  remarks  which  I  had  made  in  the  presence  of  the  pedagogue 
at  the  parsonage.  The  teacher  was  born  in  Bulgaria, —  was  a 
Mohammedan  :  he  afterwai'd  went  to  Germany,  and  finally  came 
to  Brazil  with  some  Belgian  savants  whose  object  was  scientific 
exploration.  The  young  man  became  attached  to  a  Brazilian  girl 
twelve  3^ears  of  age,  renounced  his  religion,  became  a  Romanist, 
and  married  her.  I  could  still  further  appreciate  the  cautious 
movements  of  the  clergyman,  when  he  informed  me  that  he  him- 
self was  a  Bohemian  by  birth,  was  educated  in  Vienna,  and  was 
the  means  of  turning  some  seventy  Papists  to  Protestantism, 
and  on  this  account  he  M'as  expelled  from  Austria.  Although  I 
received  the  kindest  of  treatment  from  the  schoolmaster,  truth 
compels  me  to  say  that  among  the  people  of  the  village  he  has 
the  reputation  of  being  Roman  Catholic  only  in  theory,  for  in 
practice  he  was  as  much  of  a  Turk  as  if  he  resided  in  the  heart  of 
the  Ottoman  Empire. 

The  company  ai'ound  me  was  a  mixed  one,  some  being  Romanists, 
others  Protestants.  In  the  course  of  the  evening  an  honest-look- 
ing Bernese  Swiss  came  into  the  room.  I  saluted  him,  and  spoke 
of  the  Bible,  but  observed  that  be  viewed  me  with  a  cautious  eye. 
Soon  I  saw  him  and  the  pastor  go  out  together.  They  returned  in 
a  few  minutes;  and  a  short  time  after  the  Bernese  took  me  aside 
and  said,  "I  am  convinced  that  you  have  a  good  object  in  view.     I 


Suspected  of  being  a  Jesuit. 


33'i 


was  afraid  you  -were  a  Jesuit,"  (he  had  not  forgotten  the  Sondor. 
hiind  in  his  own  country;)  "but  the  j^astor  assures  me  that  you  aj-o 
not.  I  wish  to  do  good.  I  once  hoped  to  be  a  missionary,  but 
earl}'  circumstances  prevented,  and  therefore  I  must  be  content  to 
work  through  others :  so  please  accept  this  small  sum  of  money, 
and  all  that  I  wish  you  to  do  is  to  spread  the  good  news  of  the 
bhissed  Saviour."  After  he  went  awaj^,  the  pastor  handed  me 
ano''.her  small  sum,  which  the  same  Bernese  had  given  him  for  me. 
The  total  was  onl}-  nine  francs;  but  that  sum  is  equal  to  one  hun- 
dred francs  in  the  United  States.     I  afterward  sent  him,  from  San 


A   GERMAN   EMIGRANT'S   CABIN   AT   DONNA   FRANCISCA. 


Francisco  do  Sul,  sufficient  Bibles  in  return  for  his  gift,  and  hope 
that  he  will  thus  be  more  immediately  made  the  instrument  of 
spreading  "the  good  news  of  the  blessed  Saviour." 

It  was  late  when  my  visitors  retired.      The  next  morning,  at 


22 


338  Bkazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

an  early  hour,  mounted  upon  a  wild-looking  horse,  and  dashing 
throuirh  mud  and  mire,  I  went  to  breakfast  with  the  director  of 
the  Hamburgese  (the  Joinville,  not  the  Prince's)  colony.  As  I 
rode  along,  I  saw  on  either  hand  the  small  cottages  of  the  colonists, 
(distinguished  from  Brazilian  houses  by  their  chimnej^s,)  reared 
amid  the  overshadowing,  broad-leafed  banana-trees,  in  this  land  of 
no  winter.  But  they  have  a  hard  lot,  for  the  forest-land  is  difficult 
to  clear;  the  soil  is  not  so  rich  for  cereals  and  other  productions 
which  they  have  been  accustomed  to  cultivate,  and,  above  all,  the 
people  are  poor,  and,  many  of  them  being  from  the  lowest  classes 
in  Germany,  quite  a  number  give  themselves  up  to  drink.  It  was 
on  this  latter  account  that  the  pastor  solicited  German  temperance- 
tracts. 

As  I  passed  one  house,  in  the  midst  of  hundreds  of  palms  and 
other  magnificent  trees,  I  heard  the  sweet  sound  of  a  mother 
teaching  her  little  one  to  lisp  its  ABC. 

It  was  a  new  sight  for  me  to  behold  the  primeval  forest  of  the 
tropics  being  prostrated  under  the  fell  swoop  of  the  woodman's 
axe.  On  every  side,  nobJe  palms  and  rare  and  gigantic  parasites 
were  hurled  in  wild  confusion  to  the  ground.  Near  the  house  of 
Mr.  n.,  I  saw  one  of  these  wood-kings  lifting  his  solitary  head 
amid  his  fiillen  companions.  The  monarch  was  crowned  and  fes- 
tooned with  magnificent  orchidas  and  clambering  wild  vines.  His 
own  bright-gi'een  foliage  spoke  of  life  and  vigor;  but  the  dripping 
dew-drops  seemed  like  falling  tears  mourning  the  desolation 
around.  But,  to  make  this  world  a  fit  habitation  for  man, 
nature,  as  well  as  man,  must  make  her  sacrifices :  so  utility  recon- 
ciled me. 

The  little  long-tailed  birds  (closely  resembling  the  whidah-birds 
of  Africa)  that  I  had  often  seen  pining  in  cages  were  here  in  glorious 
freedom,  playing  before  me,  gracefully  floating  from  fern  to  fern, 
or  swinging  in  fearless  glee  upon  the  pendent  parasitic  vanilla 
which  loaded  the  morning  air  with  its  rich  perfume. 

The  house  of  Mr.  H.  was  prettily  situated,  and,  in  this  remote 
corner  of  the  world,  it  was  as  interesting  as  it  was  strange  to  con 
over,  in  his  little  parlor,  the  last  London  "Illustrated  News," 
"La  Presse,"  and  the  Paris  "Illustration."  Madame  II.,  from  La 
Belle  France,  demonstrated  that  others  besides  American  women 


The  Village  Cemetery. 


d39 


could   enter  the  backwoods  and   undergo  with   contentment  the 
hardships  and  the  excitements  of  a  pioneer  life. 


When  Mr.  H.  and  myself  were  ready  to  return  to  the  village,  our 
horses  were  brought  to  the  door;  but  mine  had  the  bad  taste  to 
break  his  halter,  and,  snorting  a  loud  adieu,  away  he  went,  career- 
ing along  the  road  toward  Joinville.  His  free  movement,  crested 
mane,  and  distended  nostril,  made  him  look  for  all  the  woi'ld  like 
one  of  the  steeds  on  the  Elgin  marbles;  only  he  was  minus  his 
rider.  As  he  disappeared  from  sight,  he  flung  his  heels  high  in  the 
air,  and  gave  a  series  of  farewell  kicks  and  other  antics  Avhich  were 
enough  to  provoke  laughter  from  even  brooding  melancholy.  Mr. 
11.  kindly  furnished  me  with  another  horse,  and  the  last  that  I  saw 
of  my  steed  was  just  as  we  reached  Joinville.  He  had  entered  a 
small  sugar-plantation,  and  was  enjoying  a  most  delightful  repast 
of  the  tender  young  cane. 

Before  entering  the  village,  we  turned  aside  from  the  road, 
ascended  a  forest-crowned  hill,  upon  whose  sides  was  the  rural 
cemetery  where  were  buried  the  colonists  of  the  Hamburg  settle- 
ment. It  was  a  sad  yet  beautiful  spot.  The  morning  sun  had 
risen  high  above  the  forests,  yet  the  dense  foliage  was  still 
sparkling  with  matinal  freshness.  Each  day  and  each  year  the 
sun  will  shine  upon  that  remote  little  cemeterj-;  but  those  who 
there  sleep  will  never  again  behold  the  morning  glories  of  this 


340  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

bright  land.  The  earth  was  yet  fresh  that  covered  the  remains 
of  one  of  the  finest  men  of  the  colony  :  a  few  wreaths  immortellei 
had  been  hung  with  rustic  taste  by  some  kindly  hand  near  the 
humble  grave;  but  no  father  or  mother  or  gentle  sister  Avould 
ever  shed  the  silent  tear  over  the  sleeping  dead. 

From  the  same  hill  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  village.  The 
living  and  the  dead  are  thus  brought  near  each  other;  but  man  is 
a  forgetful  creature,  and  the  lessons  of  cemeteries  and  new-made 
graves  are  as  easily  forgotten  in  this  retired  nook  as  amid  the  busy 
hum  of  the  vast  city. 

Before  leaving  the  colony,  I  visited  the  school,  which  is  sustained 
by  the  common-school  fund  of  the  province,  and  I  found  that  the 
Bulgarian  had  not  been  neglectful  of  his  little  charge,  which  he 
instructed  in  both  German  and  Portuguese. 

In  wandering  through  Joinville,  I  called  upon  a  colonist  who 
has  a  brother  in  New  York,  and,  while  in  his  house,  a  gentle- 
manly-looking man  entered.  By  his  conversation  I  ascertained 
that  he  was  a  physician.  So  soon  as  he  knew  who  I  was,  and  iu 
what  cajjacity  I  had  visited  the  colony,  he  took  me  warmly  by  the 
hand,  and  I  learned  that  he  was  one  of  those  physicians  who  care 
for  the  souls  as  well  as  for  the  bodies  of  their  patients.  My  inter- 
course with  him  was  very  pleasant;  for,  in  addition  to  his  piety, 
I  found  him  a  gentleman  of  cultivated  mind,  having  been  educated 
at  the  Universit}^  of  Halle ;  and  that  which  particularly  interested 
me  was  that  he  had,  apart  from  his  professional  studies,  attended 
the  lectures  of  Tholuck. 

He,  as  well  as  the  Lutheran  clergj^man,  highly  approved  of  the 
proposition  of  another  German  pastor  in  the  Empire,  which  is  to 
have  an  ordained  missionary  colporteur  to  go  from  colony  to 
colony  throughout  Brazil,  with  Bibles  and  tracts,  encouraging 
such  communities  as  have  pastors ;  by  the  printed  Word  and  reli- 
gious works  rallying  those  who  are  without  a  clergyman ;  and 
performing  the  rites  of  marriage  where,  for  want  of  a  minister, 
this — so  essential  to  the  purity  of  a  community — has  been  to  a 
great  extent  neglected. 

There  are  German  colonies  scattered  here  and  there  throughout 
the  whole  length  of  the  Brazilian  sea-coast,  and  there  is,  from  the 
nature  of  the  case,  a  loud  call  upon  the  evangelical  Germans  of  our 


Orchidaceous  Plants. 


341 


land  to  care  foi"  the  spiritual  welfare  of  their  countrymen  in  Brazil. 
I  believe  that  such  a  work,  carried  on  by  a  few  of  the  Lutheran 
churches  of  the  United  States,  would  redound  in  great  good.  They 
could  thus  direct  the  operations  of  the  man  who  should  be  called 
to  this  labor  better  than  a  large  benevolent  society  that  has  fifty 
other  lands  in  view.  Such  an  enterprise  is  of  the  most  imperious 
necessity,  not  only  for  keeping  alive  evangelical  piety,  but  the 
knowledge  of  Protestant  Christianity. 

On  returning  to  the  hotel,  I  found  that  a  large  basket  of  orchi- 
daceous plants  of  the  rarest  species  had  been  prepared  according 
to  m}'  order,  which  I  sent  as  a  present  to  a  kind  friend  at  Rio  de 
Janeiro.  The  lot,  with  the  basket,  cost  but  three  dollars :  in  England 
they  would  have  brought  a 
fabulous  price,  considering  tho 
rage  that  now  exists  among 
royal  and  noble  horticul- 
turalists  for  these  curious 
subjects  of  Flora's  kingdom. 
They  can  be  easily  trans- 
ported over  the  ocean,  if  care 
be  taken  that  all  contact  with 
salt  water  be  avoided.  1  found 
that  there  was  a  naturalist 
not  fiir  from  Rio  who  often 
sent  orchidse  to  England. 
Brazil  is  exceedingly  rich  in 
parasites  and  air-plants;  but 
none  among  the  vast  variety 
is  more  graceful  than  the 
vanilla,  which  is  found  in 
greater  or  less  abundance 
from  the  northern  limit  of 
the  Empire  to  the  province 
of  St.  Catharine's.  Its  little 
star-like  flower,  its  pretty  leaf, 
and    its    delicious    fragrance, 

make  it  an  object  of  beauty  and  of  admiration.  I,  howevei*,  could 
never  understand  why  the  vanilla-bean  should  be  imported  into 


THE     VANILLA. 


342  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Rio  from  Mexico  and  Central  America  via  New  York,  when  the 
plant  itself  abounded  in  Brazil. 

I  left  the  colony  with  sincere  regret  that  I  could  not  remain 
longer  and  see  more  of  the  people;  but,  according  to  the  announce- 
ment, the  steamer  which  was  to  take  me  back  to  Santos  was  to 
arrive  the  next  morning.  So  I  bade  farewell  to  my  newly -made 
friends,  and,  after  several  hours'  hard  rowing  in  the  cramped-up, 
narrow  canoe,  arrived  at  San  Francisco  do  Sul. 

The  steam-packet  was  not  in  the  harbor  on  the  appointed  day, 
and  I  passed  the  time  very  agreeably  with  Mr.  V.  and  a  number 
of  Germans,  one  of  whom  was  a  young  physician  educated  at 
Breslau,  but  was  about  to  retire  in  disgust  from  the  colony  and 
irom  Brazil.  He  was  certainly  more  adapted  to  a  formed  than  to 
a  forming  societ}".  He  alleged,  as  his  principal  reason,  that  Brazil 
was  a  great  field  for  charlatanism;  that  pretenders  and  quacks 
could  always  succeed  better  than  the  regular  scientifically  edu- 
cated. He  instanced  the  case  of  a  barber  of  the  Schleswig-Holstein 
army,  who  emigrated  to  the  new  province  of  Parana  and  is  now 
the  phj^sician  in  highest  repute  in  that  region.  I  was  further 
informed  that  this  ci-devant  knight  of  the  razor  had  recently  ap- 
peared in  the  theatre  at  Paranagua  with  a  decoration  bespangling 
his  breast,  pretending  that  it  was  conferred  in  Europe  for  his  dis- 
tinguished surgical  services  !  My  Breslau  friend  was  evidently  a 
cultivated  man,  and  well  read  in  his  profession,  but  home-sickness 
was  doubtless  the  disease  that  made  him  look  at  every  thing  with 
distorted  vision;  for  I  doubt  if  there  can  be  found  on  the  Western 
Continent  a  countiy  where  the  Government  and  the  medical 
foculty  are  more  strict  than  in  Brazil.  Thei-e  are  successful 
charlatans  under  the  yery  eyes  of  the  medical  schools  in  Paris, 
and  it  is  not  therefore  strange  that  examples  occur  in  a  vast, 
thinly-populated  country. 

Often,  leaving  my  companions,  I  would  stray  alone  into  the 
foliaged  walks  which  are  found'  on  every  side,  and  there  I  could 
be  as  retired  as  if  a  thousand  miles  from  the  haunts  of  man. 
A  favorite  p  ace  was  the  ruins  of  an  old  convent  on  the  summit 
of  a  vine-clad  hill,  near  which  were  the  new  foundations  of 
an  hospital  erected  as  an  expiatory  offering  by  some  rich 
lady   of   San    Francisco :    she    having    died,    her    pious   work,   1 


The  Burial  of  the  Innocent.  343 

fear,  will  soon  be  in  the  same  condition  as  that  of  the 
Jesuits, 

In  one  of  my  rambles  I  paid  a  visit  to  the  jail,  the  onlj^  occu- 
pant of  which  was  a  German  Avho,  in  a  fit  of  anger,  had  struck 
the  director  of  the  Hamburg  colony.  Kow,  it  is  perfectly  allow- 
able in  Brazil  to  call  a  man  very  hard  names  and  cheat  him  as 
much  as  3'ou  please  with  impunity;  but  to  strike  a  man  is  beyond 
all  bounds  of  deeenc}',  and  the  jail  or  some  other  punishment  is 
sure  to  follow.  The  prisoner  seemed  very  happy  under  the  cir- 
cumstances, having  a  finer  room  than  that  which  I  occupied  at 
Herr  Sneider's,  and  perfect  freedom  to  go  where  he  pleased  at 
certain  hours  of  the  day. 

From  the  jail  I  entered  the  large  chui-ch,  situated  near  the 
centre  of  the  village.  The  floor  was  so  constructed  of  wood  that 
it  could  be  lifted  up  in  sections,  which  was  always  done  when 
interments  took  place.  Here  for  nearly  two  centuries  pcoj'jle  had 
been  buried  who  died  with  the  fond  hope  of  being  brought  nearer 
to  heaven  by  having  their  bodies  within  these  precincts  jnade  by 
man's  hands.  An  old  negro  was  diffo-ino;  a  arrave,  and  each  time 
his  heavy  hoe  (the  sj>ade  is  rarely  used)  went  down,  it  ruthlessly 
crunched  and  smashed  through  skulls  and  ribs  and  whatever  else 
is  fragile  in  our  poor  human  frame.  The  fragments  were  pitched 
up  as  common  clay. 

I  Avas  disturbed  in  my  meditations  of  this  scene  bj'  the  fat,  jolly, 
round  padre,  who,  with  a  giggling  face,  gave  ordei'S,  in  a  loud  and 
any  thing  but  solemn  voice,  to  an  assistant  who  was  bearing  a  cofiin 
to  the  centre  of  the  church.  It  was  a  small  coffin,  yet  it  was  large 
enough.  It  was  uncovered,  and  in  it  lay,  in  the  slumber  of  death,  a 
little  girl  of  twelve  months.  A  sweet  smile  was  upon  her  features; 
her  tiny  hands  were  clasped  together,  and  her  eyes  were  open  and 
beaming  with  such  a  lovely  expression  that  they  seemed  to  be 
gazing  into  heaven.  The  tinsel  and  the  ornaments  with  which 
the  body  was  bedecked  I  scarcely  saw.  Three  women,  clad  in  deep 
mourning,  and  with  mantillas  of  richest  broadcloth  trailing  from 
their  heads  to  the  ground,  swept  noiselessly  through  the  church, 
giving  one  lingering  look  at  the  innocent  dead.  The  priest  ap- 
proached and  saluted  me.  I  had  seen  him  upon  my  arrival,  and 
made  bold  to  make  a  few  inquiries  in  regard  to  the  child.     He  in- 


844  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

formed  me  that  he  was  just  propjiring  to  say  mass  for  it:  I,  however, 
took  uj)  tlic  words  of  our  Saviour,  and  said,  "Of  such  is  the  Iving- 
dom  of  heaven,"  and  that  the  little  one  redeemed  by  the  Saviour 
was  already  an  angel  in  the  realms  of  light,  and  that  there  was  no 
need  of  saying  mass  for  such,  even  waiving  the  question  of  right  to 
say  mass  for  any  one.  He  replied  with  an  e  verdade,  senhor,  but, 
notwithstanding,  Avent  on  to  his  work, —  because  he  made  by  it 
money, — because  the  church  is  corrupt,  and  man  seeks  out  new 
inventions  rather  than  follow  the  plain  precepts  of  truth. 

After  speaking  with  him  against  intermural  burials,  I  espied  a 
pulpit,  and  asked  him  if  he  preached:  he  answered,  "Sometimes, 
especially  at  the  festas."  To  all  my  remarks  on  preaching  the 
righteousness  of  Christ  only,  he  bowed,  grinned,  uttered  many 
e  verdades  and  muito  ohrigados,  (it  is  very  true;  I  am  much  obliged 
to  you;)  and  I  left,  profoundly  convinced  that  a  moral  earthquake 
will  be  necessary  to  shake  off  the  indifference  of  the.  Brazilian 
priesthood  before  their  minds  will  be  directed  aright. 

The  steamer  entered  the  bay,  and  I  turned  my  face  northward. 

The  province  of  St.  Catharine,  in  which  the  colon}'-  of  Donna 
Francisca  is  situated,  is  the  smallest  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
Empire.  In  fertility  and  salubrity  it  is  second  to  none.  Its  re- 
sources, however,  have  been  developed  only  fifty  or  sixty  miles  from 
the  coast:  beyond  this,  the  aborigines  still  abound,  and  farther  in 
the  interior  they  are  Avarlike,  and  cherish  a  deadly  hatred  to  the 
white  man.  Yet  I  would  not  convey,  through  this  statement,  the 
impression  that  the  province  is  a  howling  wilderness;  for  the  tOAvns 
on  the  sea-coast,  the  villages,  and  the  flourishing  small  plantations, 
more  remote  from  the  littoral,  and  the  numerous  colonies  founded 
by  the  Imperial  and  provincial  governments,  by  private  companies 
and  by  single  individuals,  on  the  belt  of  land  stretching  from  the 
Rio  San  Francisco  do  Sul  to  the  Mampituba,  all  speak  of  a  certain 
amount  of  ciA^ilization  and  progress.  The  population  is  estimated 
at  ninety  thousand. 

The  capital  of  the  province  is  often  called  Santa  Catharina,  though 
its  proper  and  full  name  is  Nossa  Senhora  do  Desterro,  which  may 
be  translated  either  "Our  Ladj'  of  the  Desert"  or  of  "Banishment." 
It  is  situated  upon  the  island  which  gives  the  name  to  the  province, 
and  its  harbor,  though    small,  is   compared  with  that  of  Eio  de 


Saxta  Catharina. 


345 


Janeiro  for  excellent!  and  beauty.  Desterro  is  the  seat  of  a 
considerable  trade;  yet  the  planters  are  not  engaged  in  grand 
agricultural  operations,  as  in  the  provinces  farther  noi'th.  Tho 
coffee  exported  thence  enjoys  a  high  reputation,  and  is  of  a 
superior  quality. 


^^^r^^^-^^{^'- 


.\i  -- 


The  island  of  Santa 
Catharina  is  mountain- 
ous and  finely  wooded, 
and  the  scenery  with 
which  the  city  of  Des- 
terro is  sujTOunded  has  been  the 
admiration  of  every  traveller  who 
has  been  privileged  to  visit  thih 
picturesque  region.  A  friend  who 
resided  many  years  ago  in  the 
islands  of  the  Pacific,  on  visitinjr 
St.  Catharine's  wrote  home  his  im- 
pressions, stating  that  the  general 
aspect  of  all  around  him  was  so 
like  the  South  Seas  that  he  felt  as  if  he  were  suddenly  trans- 
ported thither  and  were  again  amid  the  scenes  of  bygone  years. 
He  added,  "The  palm-tree  tossing  its  plumed  branches  in  the 
wind,  the  broad  leaves  of  the  banana  rustling  in  the  breeze,  the 


340  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

perfume  of  the  orange-blossoms  and  Cape  jessamine,  the  sugar, 
cane,  the  coffee-plant  and  cotton-bush,  the  palma  Christi  and  guava, 
the  light  canoe  upon  the  water,  and  the  rude  huts  dotting  the 
shore, — all  hurried  me  in  imagination  to  the  Marquesas,  the  Society, 
and  the  Sandwich  Islands." 

There  is  a  commerce  here  in  artificial  flowers  made  from 
beetles'  wings,  fish-scales,  sea-shells,  and  feathers,  which  attract 
the  attention  of  every  visitor.  These  are  made  by  the  mulheres 
(women)  of  almost  every  class,  and  thus  they  obtain  not  only 
pin-money,  but  some  amass  wealth  in  the  traffic.  The  wreaths, 
necklaces,  and  bracelets  made  from  the  scales  of  a  large  fish  are 
not  only  curious,  but  are  exceedingly  beautiful.  Their  effect  at 
night  is  that  of  the  most  brilliant  set  of  pearls,  and  they  are  as 
much  superior  in  splendor  to  the  small  specimens  of  fish-scale 
flowers  manufactured  in  Ireland,  and  exposed  in  the  Sj'denham 
Palace,  London,  as  the  diamond  surpasses  the  glisten  of  cut- 
glass. 

Not  only  tropic  fruits  and  flowers  are  here  to  be  found  in  profu- 
sion, but  the  choicest  horticultural  productions  of  Europe  can  be 
cultivated  to  perfection;  and  such  is  the  salubrity  of  the  air,  that 
Desterro  is  often  visited  by  invalids  from  the  more  northern  pro- 
vinces, and  even  from  more  distant  countries. 

The  natural  history  of  Santa  Catharina  is  peculiarly  interesting. 
Among  the  shells  abounding  On  the  coast  there  is  a  species  oi  Jilui'ex, 
from  the  animal  of  which  a  beautiful  crimson  color  may  be  ex- 
tracted. It  is,  however,  the  department  of  entomology  which  has 
excited  the  most  lively  admiration  of  the  naturalists  who  have 
visited  the  province.  The  butterflies  are  the  most  splendid  in  the 
world.  Langsdorff  says  they  are  not  like  the  tame  and  puny 
lepidopters  of  Europe,  which  can  be  caught  by  means  of  a  small 
piece  of  silk.  On  the  contrary,  they  rise  liigh  in  the  air,  with  a 
brisk  and  rapid  flight.  Sometimes  they  light  and  repose  on  flowers 
at  the  tops  of  trees,  and  rarely  risk  themselves  within  reach  of  the 
hand.  They  appear  to  be  constantly  on  their  guard,  and,  if  caught 
at  all,  it  must  be  when  on  the  wing,  by  means  of  a  net  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  a  long  rod  of  cane.  Some  species  are  obseiwed  to  live 
in  society,  hundreds  and  thousands  of  them  being  sometimes  found 
together.     These  generally  prefer  the  lower  districts  and  the  banks 


COAL-MINES    AND    RiO    GkANDE    DO    SuL.  347 

of  streams.  When  one  of  thera  is  caught  and  fastened  by  a  pin  on 
the  surftice  of  the  sand,  swarms  of  the  same  species  will  gather 
round  him,  and  may  be  caught  at  pleasure. 

It  has  been  rumored  for  many  years  that  mines  of  coal  exist 
within  the  bounds  of  the  province;  but,  notwithstanding  some 
examinations  by  order  of  Government,  no  satisfactory  discoveries 
have  yet  been  made.  Doctor  Parigot,  who  was  employed  to  make 
surveys  in  the  province  in  1841,  reported  the  existence  of  a  car- 
boniferous stratum,  from  twenty  to  thirty  miles  in  width  and  about 
three  hundred  in  length,  running  from  north  to  south  through  the 
province.  The  best  vein  of  coal  he  opened  he  jDronounced  half 
bituminous,  and  situated  between  thick  strata  of  the  hydrous  oxide 
of  iron  and  bituminous  schist;  but  hitherto  there  has  been  no  very 
encouraging  result  from  these  explorations.  In  the  neighboring 
province  of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  coal  of  a  better  kind,  though  some- 
what argillaceous,  was  found  about  the  same  time  at  a  place  called 
Herval,  not  far  from  S.  Leopoldo.  But  in  1861  the  most  important 
mineral  discovery  ever  made  in  Brazil  was  made  by  Mr.  Nathaniel 
Plant,  in  Eio  Grande  do  Sul;  and  the  name  of  Candiota,  in  connec- 
tion with  coal,  will  be  as  famous  in  Brazil  as  Cardiff  in  England. 
For  full  accounts  of  this  great  discovery,  see  Appendix  H. 

The  province  of  Sao  Pedro  do  Rio  Grande  do  Sul  (more  com- 
monly known  as  simply  Rio  Grande  do  Sul)  constitutes  the  extreme 
southern  portion  of  the  Empire  of  Brazil.  It  is  so  called  from  the 
first  parochial  Church  of  St.  Peter,  (S.  Pedro,)  and  the  river 
called  Grande,  (see  on  the  map  Barra  do  Rio  Grande,)  near  whose 
margins  it  was  erected.  In  many  of  the  official  papers  of  the  Em- 
pire, this  province  occurs  as  S.  Pedro,  to  distinguish  it  from  Eio 
Grande  do  Norte.  In  the  salubrity  of  its  climate  and  the  fertility 
of  its  soil  it  resembles  the  Republic  of  Uruguay,  upon  which  it 
borders.  It  is  admirably  adapted  for  European  immigration,  and 
the  most  successful  of  all  the  colonies  established  by  the  Imperial 
Government  is  that  of  S.  Leopoldo,  founded  in  1825,  which  to-day 
numbers  a  busy  and  prosperous  population  of  more  than  eleven 
thousand  souls. 

All  the  cereals  and  fruits  of  Central  Europe  can  be  cultivated  in 
this  jjrovince,  and  formerly  immense  quantities  of  wheat  were 
grown,  so  that  not  only  was  there  suflicient  for  home-supply,  but 


348  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

for  exportation.     This  branch  of  agriculture  has  now  so  dwindled 
that  flour  is,  to  some  extent,  imported  from  the  United  States. 

The  great  wealth  of  Eio  Grande  do  Sul  consists  of  that  which 
constituted  the  riches  of  the  patriarchs, — flocks  and  herds.  The 
Guachos  of  Buenos  Aj^res  are  not  moi'e  expert  on  horseback  or 
more  skilful  in  the  use  of  the  lasso  than  are  the  Eio  Grandenses, 
•whose  occupation  from  childhood  is  the  care  and  culture  of  the 
herds  of  cattle  which  roam  the  vast  campinas  or  prairies.  It  has 
been  estimated  that  in  the  province  of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  not 
mentioning  parts  of  Santa  Catharina  and  S.  Paulo  which  are 
devoted  to  the  same  purposes,  five  hundred  thousand  cattle  are 
slaughtered  annually  for  the  sake  of  preserving  their  hides  and 
flesh,  while  as  many  more  are  driven  northward  for  ordinary  con- 
sumption. Most  of  the  came  secca,  or  jerked  beef,  in  common  use 
throughout  Brazil,  is  prepared  here.  After  the  hide  is  taken  from 
the  ox,  the  flesh  is  skinned  off"  in  a  similar  manner  from  the  Avhole 
side,  in  strips  about  half  an  inch  in  thickness.  The  meat,  in  this 
form,  is  stretched  in  the  sun  to  dry.  But  very  little  salt  is  used  in 
its  preservation,  and,  when  sufficiently  cured,  it  is  shij)ped  to  all 
the  maritime  provinces,  and  is  the  only  kind  of  preserved  beef 
used  in  the  country.  Stacks  of  this  meat  (emitting  no  very  agi'ee- 
able  odor)  lie  piled  up,  like  cords  of  wood,  in  the  pi^ovision-houses 
of  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

In  the  financial  year  1853-54,  Rio  Grande  do  Sul  exported  the 
value  of  near  $3,000,000  in  hides,  horns,  hair,  and  wool,  $1,000,000 
of  which  were  imported  into  the  United  States. 

The  character  of  the  people  is  somewhat  peculiar,  owing  to  their, 
circumstances  and  mode  of  life.  They  are  generally  tall,  of  an 
active  and  energetic  appearance,  with  handsome  features,  and  of  a 
lighter  skin  than  prevails  among  the  inhabitants  of  the  northern 
portions  of  the  Empire.  Both  sexes  are  accustomed,  from  child- 
hood, to  ride  on  horseback,  and  consequently  acquire  great  skill  in 
the  management  of  those  noble  animals  upon  which  they  take  their 
amusements  as  well  as  perform  their  journeys  and  pursue  the  wild 
cattle  of  their  plains. 

The  use  of  the  lasso  is  learned  among  the  earliest  sports  of  boy- 
hood, and  is  continued  until  an  almost  inconceivable  dexterity  is 
acquired.     Little  children,  armed  with  their  lasso  or  bolas,  make 


Lassoing  Wild  Cattle. 


349 


war  upon  the  chickens,  ducks,  and  geese  of  the  farmyard,  until 
their  ambition  and  strength  lead  them  into  a  wider  field. 

For  the  pursuit  of  wild  cattle  the  horses  are  admirably  trained, 
so  that,  when  the  lasso  is  thrown,  they  knoAV  precisely  what  to  do. 
Sometimes,  in  the  case  of  a  furious  animal,  the  rider  checks  the 
horse  and  dismounts,  while  the  bull  is  running  out  the  length  of 
his  raw-hide  rope.  The  horse  wheels  round  and  braces  himself  to 
sustain  the  shock  Avhich  the  momentum  of  the  caj)tured  animal 
must  inevitably  give.     The  bull,  not  expecting  to  be  brought  up  so 


THE      LASSO. 


suddenly,  is  thrown  sprawling  to  the  ground.  Eising  to  his  feet, 
he  rushes  upon  the  horse  to  gore  him;  but  the  latter  keeps  at  a 
distance,  until  the  bull,  finding  that  nothing  is  to  be  accomplished 
in  this  way,  again  attempts  to  flee,  Avhen  the  rope  a  second  time 
brings  him  to  the  ground.  Thus  the  poor  animal  is  worried,  until 
he  is  wholly  within  the  power  of  his  captors. 

Nor  is  it  only  in  Eio  Grande  do  Sul  or  San  Paulo  that  scenes  of 
this  kind  may  be  observed.  They  were  formerly  witnessed  in  Eio 
de  Janeiro  itself  At  the  Matadouro  publico,  situated  on  the  Praya 
d'Ajuda,  before  the  municipal-  butcheries  were  removed  to  the  spa- 
cious abattoirs  at  San  Christovao,  vast  numbers  of  cattle  were  daily 
slaughtered.     Among  the  droves  that  reached  the  capital  from  the 


350 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


distant  sertoes  was  occasionally  an  ox  so  wild  and  powerful  that 
he  was  not  disposed  to  surrender  life  without  a  desperate  struggle. 
He  would  break  from  his  enclosure  and  dash  into  the  streets  of  the 
city,  threatening  destruction  to  whoever  opposed  his  course.  A 
hoi'se,  accoutred  with  saddle  and  bridle,  and  with  a  lasso  fastened 
to  him  by  a  strong  girth,  stood  ready  for  the  emergencj^,  and  was 
mounted  in  an  instant  to  give  jiursuit.  The  chase  was  widely  dif- 
ferent in  its  circumstances  from  that  which  occurs  in  the  open 
campos;  but  perhaps  no  interest  was  lost  in  the  rapid  turning  of 
corners  of  streets,  the  heavy  clatter  of  hoofs  upon  the  pavement, 
and  the  hasty  accumulation  of  spectators.  In  a  short  time,  usually, 
the  noose  of  the  lasso  whirled  around  the  horns  of  the  fugitive, 
an  area  was  cleared,  and  the  scene  already  described  was  enacted, 
until  the  runaway  ox  was  killed  on  the  spot  or  led  away  in  triumph 
to  the  slaugliter.  The  lasso  is,  moreover,  in  frequent  use  in  the 
Campo  de  Santa  Anna,  in  the  same  city,  where  vast  herds  of  mules 


^\"^v::..<^^^^.^lv^uvvn' 


THE  GUAYCURUS. 


are  frequently  congregated  for  sale.  The  purchaser  has  only  to 
indicate  which  animal  out  of  the  untamed  multitude  he  would  like 
to  examine,  and  the  tropeiro  soon  has  him  "  slippernoosed"  at  the 
end  of  his  long  rope,  by  which  he  holds  or  leads  him  at  will. 

This  portion  of  Brazil  was  inhabited  at  the  period  of  the  settle- 
ment by  two  peculiar  tribes  of  savages.     On  the  eastern  jiart  of 


Tranquillity  Secured  by  the  Fall  of  Rosas.       351 

Bio  Grande  do  Sul  and  in  St.  Catharine's  were  the  Carijos,  who  were 
said  to  be  the  most  humane  of  all  the  aborigines,  and  were  the 
most  accessible  to  European  manners  and  cultivation.  North  of 
the  province  under  consideration  were  the  Guaycurus, — Indian  ca- 
valry,— so  called  because  the  Portuguese  found  them  ready  to  give 
battle  on  horseback.  "Where  they  obtained  these  horses  is  an  un- 
explained mystery,  but  doubtless  they  were  j)rocured  either 
through  the  Spaniards  on  the  Pacific  coast,  or  from  some  of  the 
earliest  settlements  on  the  La  Plata.  I  have  in  my  possession  an 
old  picture  of  Guaj'curus  charging  regulars,  and  their  position 
reminds  one  of  that  resorted  to  by  the  wild  Camanches  of  New 
Mexico. 

Eio  Grande  do  Sul  is  in  population  and  commerce  the  fifth  or 
sixth  province  in  the  Empire.  Until  the  I'apid  augmentation  of 
exports  from  Para,  she  occupied  with  certainty  the  fifth  place. 

For  a  series  of  years  Eio  Grande  was  in  open  rebellion  against 
the  Imperial  Government,  to  which  fact  allusion  has  already  been 
made.  The  effect  of  this  struggle  was  the  proclamation  of  free- 
dom to  the  slaves  b}^  both  parties,  so  that  the  number  of  those 
in  bondage  was  greatly  diminished.  The  proximity  of  this  pro- 
vince to  the  Spanish-American  Governments  doubtless  did  much, 
before  the  Empire  of  Brazil  was  fully  established  in  strength,  to 
incline  it  to  republican  notions,  and  it  was  thought  at  one  time 
that  Rio  Grande  would  sever  itself  from  the  Empire,  and,  like  the 
Banda  Oriental,  or  Uruguay,  (once  a  province  of  Brazil,)  become 
an  independent  State.  But,  betvS'Cen  generous  concessions  and 
vigorous  measures,  Rio  Grande  was  brought  back  to  allegiance, 
and  to  day  none  of  her  sister-provinces  excel  her  in  loyalty  to  the 
existing  regime.  Brazil,  howev^er,  has  taken  effectual  means  and 
preventives  that  her  southern  border  be  no  longer  distux'bed.  The 
tyrant  Rosas*  was  overthrown  through  the  aid  of  the  Brazilian 


*  Allusion  having  been  made  to  tile  part  which  Brazil  took  in  the  overthrow  of 
the  Nero-Borgia  of  the  New  World,  the  following  note  from  Mr.  Hadfield's  work 
will  give  an  outline  of  the  history  of  affairs  in  the  Argentine  Confederation : — 

"In  January,  1831,  the  provinces  of  Buenos  Ayres,  Entre  Rios,  Corrientes,  and 
Santa  F6,  entered  into  a  federal  compact,  to  which  all  the  other  provinces  at 
subsequent  periods  became  parties.  The  union  was  a  voluntary  alliance.  No 
general  Constitution  was  promulgated,  and  the  adhesion  of  the  several  Jnembers 


352  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

army  and  navy,  and  Brazil  is  now  (1866)  eudsavoring  to  conquer 
a  peace  by  overthrowing  a  new  despot,— Lopez  Jr.  Brazil  is  en- 
was  left  to  be  secured  by  the  resources  of  the  person  who  might  obtain  the  direc- 
tion of  affairs.  This  Argentine  Confederation,  like  the  Republic  which  it  bad 
succeeded,  soon  fell  into  a  state  of  anarchy;  and  it  was  not  till  the  election  of 
General  Rosas  as  governor  or  captain-general,  with  almost  absolute  power,  in 
1835,  that  even  temporary  quiet  was  secured.  But  cruelty  and  despotism  marked 
his  sway  at  home,  and  his  ambition,  which  continually  prompted  him  to  endeavors 
to  extend  his  power  over  the  whole  country  watered  by  the  La  Plata  and  the  Parana, 
led  him  into  disputes  with  foreign  powers;  and  these  ultimately  brought  about 
his  downfall. 

"On  the  death  of  Francia,  Dictator  of  Paraguay,  Rosas  refused  to  acknowledge 
the  independence  of  that  power,  insisting  that  it  should  join  the  Argentine  Con- 
federation. At  the  same  time  he  refused  to  allow  the  navigation  of  the  Parang  by 
vessels  bound  to  Paraguay.  Lopez,  the  new  Dictator  of  Paraguay,  therefore  entered 
into  alliance  with  the  Banda  Oriental,  now  called  Uruguay,  with  which  Rosas  was 
at  war.  These  powers  applied  for  assistance  to  Brazil.  The  war  was  prolonged 
until  the  whole  country  on  both  sides  of  the  Plata  and  the  Paranii  was  in  a  state 
of  confusion.  Great  Britain  volunteered  her  mediation,  but  it  was  rejected  by 
Rosas.  England  and  France  tried  various  measures  with  Rosas  from  1845  to  1849, 
but  in  vain.  On  the  final  withdrawal  of  the  two  great  powers  in  1850,  Brazil 
determined  on  active  interference.  Accordingly,  toward  the  close  of  1850,  Brazil, 
Uruguay,  and  Paraguay  entered  into  a  treaty,  to  which  Corrientes  and  Entre  Rios, 
as  represented  by  Genei'.al  Urquiza,  became  parties,  by  which  they  bound  them- 
selves to  continue  hostilities  until  they  had  effected  the  deposition  of  Rosas, 
'whose  power  and  tyranny'  they  declared  to  be  'incompatible  with  the  peace 
and  happiness  of  this  part  of  the  world.'  Early  in  the  spring  of  1851,  a  Brazilian 
fleet  blockaded  Buenos  Ayres,  and  soon  after  an  Argentine  force  commanded  by 
Urquiza  crossed  the  Uruguay.  General  Oribe,  who  commanded  the  army  of  Rosas 
at  Montevideo,  capitulated.  His  soldiers  for  the  most  part  joined  the  army  of 
Urquiza,  who — at  the  head  of  a  force  amounting,  it  is  said,  to  seventy  thousand 
men — crossed  into  Buenos  Ayres.  A  general  engagement  took  place  on  the  plains 
of  Moron,  February  2, 1852,  when  the  army  of  Rosas  was  entirely  defeated.  Rosas, 
who  had  commanded  in  person,  succeeded  in  escaping  from  the  field;  and,  in  the 
dress  of  a  peasant,  he  reached  in  safety  the  house  of  the  British  minister  at  Buenos 
Ayres.  From  thence,  with  his  daughter,  he  proceeded  on  board  H.B.M.  steamer 
Locust,  and  on  the  10th  of  February  sailed  in  the  Conflict  steamer  for  England." 

Note  for  i566.— The  Paraguay  War  of  1865-66.— In  1862,  Lopez  Sr.,  the 
second  Dictator  of  Paraguay,  died.  In  1859  he  had  given  the  Brazilian  Govern- 
ment difficulty  by  his  non-compliance  with  the  solemn  treaties  made  in  1850, 
which  granted  the  right  of  way  for  steamers  going  to  Matto  Grosso  up  the  river 
Paraguay,  and  also  by  his  refusal  to  settle  the  boundary-line  question  between 
Paraguay  and  Brazil.  He  thus  treated  the  power  which  had  saved  Paraguay  from 
the  tyrant  Rosas.  However,  matters  were  bridged  over,  because  Brazil  made 
earnest  diplomatic  efforts,  accompanied  by  a  strong  show  of  force.  In  1862, 
Lopez  Sr.  died.  Lopez  Jr.  assumed  the  reins  of  government,  and  became  third 
Dictator  of  Paraguay.  He  then  sent  for  mechanics  from  Europe,  imported  vast 
quantities  of  machinery  and  iron,  nominally  for  the  railway  from  Asuncion  to 


Hope  of  Future  Development.  353 

gaged  in  a  just  war,  though  not  one  of  her  seeking,  and  the  downfiiU 
of  Lopez  the  younger  will  be  promotive  of  as  great  a  benefit  as  the 
vietorj'  over  the  former  disturber  of  South  American  peace, — Eosas. 

Villa  Rica,  but  in  reality,  as  subsequent  events  have  shown,  for  war  purposes, 
as  he  seems  to  have  been  filled  with  hatred  of  Brazil  for  presuming,  through  the 
Brazilian  statesman  Paranhos,  to  interfere  in  Paraguayan  affairs.  In  18ti3-64, 
the  Banda  Oriental,  or  Republic  of  Uruguay,  became  torn  by  internal  faction : 
the  Blancos  (the  ins)  were  opposed  by  the  Colorados  (the  outs),  led  by  General 
Flores.  Brazilian  citizens  in  Uruguay  sutfered  at  the  hands  of  the  Blancos,  and 
Brazil  was  compelled,  after  long  and  peaceable  protestation,  to  send  down  Vice- 
Admiral  Visconde  de  Tamander^  with  the  Brazilian  fleet  to  protect  her  citizens 
She  did  this  effectually  by  aiding  Flores,  and  the  government  of  Uruguay  fell 
into  the  hands  of  the  Colorados.  Forced  to  take  up  arms  to  protect  her  subjects 
in  Uruguay  from  ill  treatment  and  extortion,  she  showed  by  her  moderation  in  the 
hour  of  triumph  that  her  practice  was  consistent  with  her  profession,  and  that 
no  ideas  of  conquest  or  oppression  had  mingled  with  the  exaction  of  the  repara- 
tion she  had  so  long  and  vainly  sought  by  peaceful  means.  But  Lopez,  before 
the  Blanco  party  fell,  had  said  to  Brazil,  "If  you  attack  Uruguay,  I  will  attack 
you."  This  was  a  mere  pretext,  as  his  ample  preparations  showed.  On  the  loth 
of  November,  1864,  without  declaration  of  war,  Lopez  caused  the  Brazilian  mail- 
steamer  Marquis  de  Olinda,  on  her  way  to  Matto  Grosso,  to  be  seized  and  brought 
back  to  Asuncion,  and  her  passengers,  including  the  President  of  Matto  Grosso  and 
a  number  of  Brazilian  army  and  navy  officers,  to  be  put  into  prison,  where  they  are 
to  this  day,  (March,  1866.)  The  Brazilian  Minister,  Vianna  de  Lima,  could  not 
obtain  his  passports  without  the  intervention  of  the  United  States  Minister,  Mr. 
Washburn.  Paraguay  steamers  then  went  up  the  river,  bombarded  and  seized 
Coirabra,  took  Albuquerque,  Corumbii,  and  other  points  in  Brazil,  and  committed 
great  outrages  upon  an  almost  defenceless  people.  Of  course  Brazil  had  no  other 
resource  than  to  fly  to  arms.  But  Brazil,  like  all  large  bodies,  moved  slowly,  and 
in  the  mean  time  Lopez,  (whose  object  should  have  been  to  secure  the  neutrality 
of  the  Argentine  Confederation,)  without  judgment  and  without  knowledge  of 
international  law,  demanded  from  the  Argentine  Confederation  passage  for  the 
Paraguayan  arms  across  the  Argentine  State  of  Corrientes.  The  President  (Mitre) 
of  the  Confederation  replied,  in  efl"ect,  "We  are  at  peace  with  Brazil:  it  cannot 
be  done."  At  this  Lopez  seized,  without  declaration  of  war,  steamers  belonging 
to  the  Confederation.  Uruguay,  the  Argentine  Confederation,  and  Brazil  were 
then  all  brought  into  alliance,  through  the  good  ofiices  of  the  Brazilian  envoy,  Sr. 
Octaviano.  On  June  11,  1865,  at  a  place  on  the  river  Parana,  not  far  from  Cor- 
rientes, the  first  naval  conflict  took  place  between  Paraguayans  and  Brazilians 
Barroso  commanded  the  Brazilian  fleet.  The  odds  (in  number  of  Paraguay  steamers 
and  land-batteries)  were  against  the  Brazilians;  but  the  victory  achieved  was  the 
most  brilliant  in  the  annals  of  South  America.  Lopez's  troops  had  invaded  Cor- 
rientes and  Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  but  were  defeated  at  the  Yatay  (or  Ytati)  on  the 
17th  of  August,  1865,  and  at  Uruguayana  (Rio  Grande  do  Sul)  on  the  18th  of 
September,  1865,  the  Emperor  commanding  in  person.  The  great  conflict  at  the 
mouth  of  the  ParanA  and  Paraguay  will  doubtless  settle  forever  that  despotism 
in  Paraguny,  which  has  kept  one  of  the  finest  countries  of  our  glo1)e  as  an  inland 
Japan,  without  progress  or  development. 

23 


CHAPTEE  XIX. 

JOUHNET    TO    SAN    PAULO NIGHT-TRAVELLING SEREA    DO     CUBATAO — THE     HEAVEN 

OF       THE       MOON FRADE       VASCONCELLOS ANT-HILLS TROPEl^OS CURIOUS 

ITEMS    OF     TRADE — YPIRANGA CITY     OF     SAN     PAULO LAW-STUDENTS     AND     CON- 
VENTS  MR.    MAWE'S     EXPERIENCE      CONTRASTED DESCRIPTION     OF     THE      CITY 

RESPECT    FOR    S.   PAULO THE    VISIONARY   HOTEL-KEEPER. 

On  my  return  from  the  province  of  Sfinta  Catliarina  I  again 
touched  at  Paranagua,  and,  with  the  usual  slowness  which  charac- 
terized Brazilian  coast-travelling  a  few  years  ago,  I  came  leisurely 
to  Santos,  and  thence  proceeded  to  the  city  of  San  Paulo.  A  j^oung 
Brazilian  had  the  intention  of  accompanying  me  to  the  capital  of 
the  province;  but  when  I  informed  him  that  it  was  my  determina- 
tion to  start  for  the  interior  the  day  of  my  arrival  at  Santos,  he  at 
first  laughed  at  me,  considering  it  an  impossibility,  and  intimated 
that  I  would  gladly  accept  the  proffered  hospitality  of  friends. 
When  he  found  me  unmoved  in  my  resolution,  he  dropped  his 
smiles,  and  looked  at  me  with  that  pity  which  is  bestowed  upon  the 
hopelessly  insane. 

At  half-past  five  o'clock  in  the  evening  I  set  out  alone.  I  have 
often  heard  exclamations  of  surprise,  from  those  who  have  never 
been  in  Brazil,  at  the  very  idea  of  journeying  without  a  com- 
panion in  a  land  which  their  imaginations  have  pictured  as  the 
abode  of  brigands  and  wild  beasts.  Though  I  have  compassed 
many  leagues  sohis,  I  have  never  met  with  the  former,  and  the 
latter  have  been  quite  harmless.  My  horse,  in  size,  in  his  trap- 
pings, and  in  general  appearance,  was  befitting  a  Calmuck  Tartar. 
He  had  never  made  the  acquaintance  of  a  curry-comb,  but  got  over 
the  fine  road  which  leads  to  Cubitao  with  a  speed  worthy  of  a  bet- 
ter-looking animal.  It  was  dark  before  I  reached  the  bridge  which 
spans  the  Eio  do  Cubitao;  and,  not  feeling  exactly  sure  of  a  hospe- 
daria,  I  rode  up  to  a  little  way-side  venda,  and  my  inquiries  wore 

answered  very  satisfactorily  in  French.     The  same  man  I  saw  upon 
8M 


A  Zigzag  Road.'  355 

my  return,  and  learned  from  him  that  he  came  to  Brazil  twenty 
years  ago  under  the  impression  that  gold  was  as  plentiful  as  paving- 
stones.  He  directed  me  to  an  inn  kept  by  a  German  beyond  the 
bridge.  Having  given  my  name  at  the  Registro,  and  having  paid  a 
slight  toll,  I  clattered  over,  and  was  soon  at  the  house  of  the  Ger- 
man. I  felt  half  inclined  to  push  onward  over  the  mountains,  so  as 
to  make  San  Paulo  before  mid-day  of  the  morrow.  I  however  con- 
cluded to  refresh  myself  and  horse,  and  gave  orders  for  suj^per. 
The  refreshment,  so  far  as  sleep  was  concerned,  was  a  minus  quan- 
tity, and  at  an  early  hour  I  was  astride  my  steed  and  on  my  way 
up  the  Serra.  The  road  which  traverses  this  range  of  mountains 
is  probably  the  finest  in  Brazil,  with  the  exception  of  the  Imperial 
highway  to  Petropolis.  When  Dr.  Kidder  visited  this  portion  of 
the  Empire,  there  existed  a  very  excellent  road,  made  at  gi-eat  ex- 
pense; yet,  owing  to  its  steepness,  it  was  perfectly  impassable  for 
carriages.     His  description  of  that  route  is  as  follows : — 

"It  embraces  about  four  miles  of  solid  pavement  and  upward  of 
one  hundred  and  eighty  angles  in  its  zigzag  course.  The  accom- 
plishment of  this  great  work  of  internal  improvement  was  esteemed 
worthy  of  commemoration  as  a  distinguished  event  in  the  colonial 
history  of  Portugal.  This  appears  from  a  discovery  made  on  my 
return.  Halting  on  the  peak  of  the  Serra,  my  attention  was  drawn 
to  four  wrought  stones,  apparently  imported.  They  corresponded 
in  size  and  form  to  the  mile-stones  of  the  United  States,  and  had 
fallen  prostrate.  One  lay  with  its  face  downward,  so  embedded  in 
the  earth  as  to  be — to  me  at  least — immovable.  From  the  others, 
having  removed  with  the  point  of  my  hammer  the  moss  and  rubbish 
by  which  the  tracery  of  the  letters  was  obscured,  I  deciphered  aa 
follows : — 

"MAEIA  I.EEGINA, 

NESTE   ANNO,   1790. 


OMNIA  YINCIT  AMOR  SYBDITOEYM 


FES  SE  ESTE  CAMIXHO  NO  FELIS  GOYER- 

NO  DO  ILLo  E  EXo  BERNARDO  JOSE  DB 

LORENO,  GENERAL  DESTA 

CAPITANIA. 


356  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

"  A  solid  pavement  up  this  mountain-pass  was  rendered  essential 
from  the  liability  of  the  road  to  injury  by  the  continued  tread  of 
animals,  and  also  from  torrents  of  water  which  are  frequently  pre- 
cipitated down  and  across  it  in  heavy  rains.  Notwithstanding  the 
original  excellence  of  the  work,  maintained  as  it  had  been  by 
frequent  repairs,  Ave  were  obliged  to  encounter  some  gullies  and 
filides  of  earth,  "svhich  would  have  been  thought  of  fearful  magni- 
tude had  they  not  been  rendered  insignificant  in  comparison  with 
the  heights  above  and  the  deep  ravines  which  ever  and  anon 
yawned  beneath  precipitous  embankments.  At  these  points  a  few 
false  stops  of  the  passing  animal  would  have  plunged  both  him  and 
his  rider  beyond  the  hope  of  rescue.  Our  ascent  Avas  rendered 
more  exciting  by  meeting  successive  troops  of  mules.  There  Avould 
first  be  heard  the  harsh  voice  of  the  tropeiros  urging  along  their 
beasts,  and  sounding  so  directly  above  as  to  seem  issuing  from 
the  A'cry  clouds:  presently  the  clattering  of  hoofs  aa'OuM  be  dis- 
tinguished, and  at  length  Avould  be  seen  the  animals,  erectis 
auribus,  as  thej^  came  borne  almost  irresistibly  doAvn  by  their 
heaA^y  burdens.  It  was  necessary  to  seek  some  halting-place 
while  the  several  divisions  of  the  troop  passed  by,  and  soon  their 
resounding  tread  and  the  echoing  voice  of  the  guides  would  be 
lost  in  the  thickets  beneath." 

The  aboA^e  description  of  the  road  was  strictly  true  fifteen  years 
ago;  but  nOAv,  by  judicious  engineering,  the  grades  are  not  nearly 
so  steep,  and  at  a  \'ast  expense  the  Avhole  is  finely  macadamized. 
Still,  the  ascent  is  too  precipitous  for  heaA'ilj-laden  carriages.  But 
this  will  soon  be  remedied.  English  engineers  are  surA^eying  a 
route  into  the  interior  Avhich  may  extend  as  far  as  the  province 
of  Goj^az ;  and  it  is  the  fond  hope  of  the  Vergueiros  that  the  time 
is  not  distant  AA'hen  the  coffee  of  Campinas,  Limeira,  and  Itii  Avill 
be  brought  upon  wheels  to  Santos.  In  the  engi-aving  the  pre- 
sent comparatively  greatly-winding  highway  is  in  strong  contrast 
with  the  almost  perpendicular  road  made  by  the  early  Jesuits 
before  the  one  of  which  Dr.  Kidder  speaks.  The  Jesuits'  Eoad 
is  the  dark  line  seeming  to  divide  the  conical  mountain  into 
equal  parts. 

As  I  pushed  up  with  my  sorry-looking  steed,  the  Serra  became 
enveloped  in  mist,  so  that  I  could  scarcely  see  a  rod  before  me;  but 


"The  Heaven  of  the  Moon." 


357 


upon  mj  return  the  mountains  were  not  only  bathed  in  glorious 
sunlight,  but  the  plains  beneath  and  the  distant  ocean  seemed 
brought  near,  as  by  magic.  There  was  a  wildness  and  sublimity 
in  the  landscape  which  I  have  not  seen  surpassed  in  the  vicinity  of 
Eio  de  Janeiro.  From  the  summit  of  the  mountain  the  dark  and 
rusTired  <roro;es  were  not  even  clothed  with  the  abundant  foliage 
which  is  found  everywhere  else.  Streams  burst  forth  from  some 
of  the  loftiest  peaks,  and  thundered  down  into  the  deep  i-avines 
beneath. 


THE  BRIDGE  AND  SERRA  00  CUBITAO. 


The  Jesuit  Vasconcellos  made  the  ascent  of  this  Serra  two  hun- 
dred years  ago,  and  his  description  of  the  scenerj'  is  sketched  witn 
a  masterly  hand;  but  his  estimate  of  the  altitude  was  cei-tadnly 
extraordinary : — 

"The  greater  part  of  the  way  yo\i  have  not  to  travel,  but  to  get 
ou  with  hands  and  feet,  and  by  the  roots  of  trees;  and  this  among 
such  crags  and  precipices,  that  I  confess  my  flesh  trembled  when  1 
looked  down.  The  depth  of  the  valleys  is  tremendous,  and  the> 
niiraber  of  mountains,  one  above  another,  seems  to  leave  no  hope 
of  reaching  the  end.  When  you  fancy  you  are  at  the  summit  of 
one,  you  find  yourself  at  the  bottom  of  another  of  no  less  magni- 
tude.    True  it  is,  that  the  labor  of  ascent  is  recompensed  from  time 


858  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

to  time;  for  when  I  seated  myself  upon  one  of  these  rocks,  and 
cast  my  eyes  below,  it  seemed  as  though  I  was  looking  down  from 
the  heaven  of  the  moon,  and  that  the  whole  globe  of  earth  lay 
beneath  my  feet.  A  sight  of  rare  beauty  for  the  diversity  of 
prospect,  of  sea  and  land,  plains,  forests,  and  mountain-tracks,  all 
various,  and  beyond  measure  delightful.  This  ascent,  broken  with 
shelves  of  level,  continues  till  you  reach  the  plains  of  Piratininga, 
in  the  second  region  of  the  air,  where  it  is  so  thin  that  it  seems  as 
if  those  who  newl}^  arrive  could  never  bi'eathe  their  fill." 

Dr.  Kidder  thus  criticizes  Vasconccllos : — 

"The  last  sentence  is  as  erroneous  as  the  preceding  are  graphic 
and  beautiful.  I  should  not,  however,  deem  it  necessary  to  correct 
the  statement,  had  not  Southey,  upon  its  authority,  represented 
this  ascent  to  continue  eight  leagues  to  the  very  site  of  S.  Paulo, 
which  is  upon  the  plains  of  Piratininga.  The  truth  is,  that  from 
the  summit  of  the  Serra,  before  stated  to  be  three  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  the  distance  to  S.  Paulo  is  about  thirty  miles,  over  a 
country  diversified  with  undulations,  of  which  the  prevailing 
declination,  as  shown  by  the  course  of  streams,  is  inland.  Never- 
theless, so  slight  is  the  variation  from  a  general  level,  that  the 
highest  point  within  the  city  of  S.  Paulo  is  estimated  to  be  pre- 
cisely the  same  altitude  with  the  summit  mentioned.  What  incon- 
venience would  be  experienced  from  rarefaction  of  the  atmosphere 
at  such  an  elevation  may  be  easily  determined." 

It  however  appears  to  me  that  the  estimated  altitude  of  the 
Serra,  made  by  the  good  frade  Vasconccllos,  was  a  just  one  accord- 
ing to  his  standard;  for,  even  considering  that  he  did  not  have  the 
asthma,  to  go  up  a  steep  mountain,  ("the  heaven  of  the  moon" 
in  elevation,)  not  by  travelling,  "but  to  get  on  with  hands  and 
feet,  and  by  the  roots  of  trees,  and  this  among  such  crags  and 
precipices,"  was  assuredly  sutficicnt  to  make  one  pant  and  feel 
as  if  ho  were  "in  the  second  region  of  the  air"  and  "could  never 
breathe  his  fill."  I  once  encountered  a  tall,  lank  Californian  on 
the  Isthmus  of  Panama.  It  was  at  the  end  of  a  hot  and  sultry 
day :  the  pedestrian  gold-digger  had  set  his  face  toward  the  Pa- 
cific, while  I  was  seeking  the  port  of  Aspinwall.  I  accosted  him, 
and  inquired  the  distance  to  Obispo,  (at  that  time  the  terminus  of 
the  Panama  Eailway.)     "Stranger,"  said  he,    "they   call  it  five 


\ 


Mules  and  Muleteers.  359 

miles;  but  I  can  assure  you  that  it  is  ahout  Jive  hundred,  for  I  never 
have  been  so  tired  in  all  my  life."  He  estimated  distance  as  Frado 
Vasconeellos  estimated  the  altitude  of  the  Serra  de  Cubatao. 

Having  once  attained  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  I  galloped 
over  the  upland  plains,  feeling  more  uneomfoi'table  from  the  cold 
than  ever  before  in  Brazil.  At  ten  o'clock  I  reached  the  hotel  of 
M.  Lefevre,  a  Frenchman  from  Eoussillon,  at  whose  well-provided 
table  my  chilliness  was  soon  removed. 

The  plains  between  this  and  San  Paulo,  w^here  there  was  no  cul- 
tivation, were  dotted  by  termite-ant-hills  of  such  a  size  and  form 
as  to  remind  one  of  the  pictures  of  a  Hottentot  village.  In  some 
places  the  industrious  little  creatures  had  literally  ploughed  up 
the  ground  for  many  yards  around.  The  earth  composing  the 
outer  shell  of  these  insect-habitations  becomes  so  indurated  by 
the  action  of  the  sun  that  they  retain  their  original  erect  position 
and  oval  form  for  scores  of  j^ears. 

The  country  over  which  1  passed,  save  that  the  earth  has  a 
marked  ferruginous  appearance,  resembles  what  are  called  the 
"oak-openings"  of  the  western  parts  of  the  United  States.  In 
the  vicinity  of  the  village  of  San  Bernardo  there  are  considerable 
plantations  of  coffee  and  Chinese  tea 

I  was  constantly  meeting  with  troops  of  mules  laden  with  coffee, 
on  their  way  to  Santos,  or  passing  others  returning  from  the  sea- 
board to  the  interior.  It  may  be  here  remarked,  that  ordinary 
transportation  to  and  from  the  coast  is  accomplished  with  no  incon- 
siderable regularity  and  system,  notwithstanding  the  manner. 
Many  planters  keep  a  sufficient  number  of  beasts  to  convey  their 
entire  produce  to  market;  others  do  not,  but  depend  more  or  less 
upon  professional  carriers.  Among  these,  each  troop  is  under 
charge  of  a  conductor,  who  superintends  its  movements  and 
transacts  its  business.  They  generally  load  down  with  sugar  and 
other  agricultural  products,  conveying,  in  return,  salt,  flour,  and 
every  variety  of  imported  merchandise.  I  was  informed  that  two 
hundred  thousand  mules  annually  arrived  with  their  burdens  at 
Santos.  A  gentleman  who  had  for  many  years  employed  these  con- 
ductors in  th  ,  transmission  of  goods  stated  that  he  had  seldom  or 
never  known  uu  article  fail  to  reach  its  destination. 

The  Paulista   tropeiros,  as  a  class,  differ  very  much  from  the 


360  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Mineiros  and  conductors  that  visit  Eio  de  Janeiro.  They  have  a 
certain  wildness  in  their  look,  which,  mingled  with  intelligence 
and  sometimes  benignity,  gives  to  their  countenance  altogether  a 
peculiar  expression.  They  universally  wear  a  large  pointed  knife, 
twisted  into  their  girdle  behind.  This  faca  de  ponta  is  perhaps 
more  essential  to  them  than  the  knife  of  the  sailor  is  to  him.  It 
serves  to  cut  wood,  to  mend  harnesses,  to  kill  and  dress  an  animal, 
to  carve  food,  and,  in  case  of  necessity,  to  defend  or  to  assault. 
Its  blade  has  a  curve  peculiar  to  itself,  and,  in  order  to  be  approved, 
must  have  a  temper  that  will  enable  it  to  be  struck  through  a  thick 
piece  of  cojDper  without  bending  or  breaking.  This,  being  a  favorite 
companion,  is  often  mounted  with  a  silver  handle,  and  sometimes 
encased  in  a  silver  sheath,  although  it  is  generally  worn  naked. 
Many  foreigners  (among  them  Englishmen)  have  purchased  these 
knives  to  take  home  as  curiosities,  not  knowing  that  they  were 
manufactured  in  Great  Britain  or  in  the  northeastern  part  of 
France.  Lady  Emeline  StiBwart  Wortley,  in  her  interesting  gossip- 
ing letters  from  the  New  World,  states  that  she  procured  in  Peru, 
as  a  great  curiosity,  a  poncho  of  the  country,  so  that  she  might 
show  to  her  friends  in  England  the  peculiar  costume  and  the  manu- 
factures of  the  people  who  are  descended  from  Castilian  adven- 
turers and  the  subjects  of  Atahualpa.  Before  leaving  South 
America,  some  kind  friend  engaged  in  commerce,  not  wishing  Lady 
Emeline  to  be  duped,  broke  her  pleasant  delusion  by  infoi*ming  her 
that  the  poncho  in  question  was  from  the  looms  of  Scotland.  It 
might  also  be  mentioned  that  many  of  the  beautiful  water-vases 
seen  by  foreigners  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  are  manufactured  at  the  pot- 
teries in  Staffordshire,  and  are  sent'out  in  large  quantities  to  South 
America.  The  mysteries  of  the  sujjply  of  distant  countries  with 
the  productions  considered  as  peculiar  to  those  lands  would  form 
a  curious  book,  far  more  interesting  than  the  "blue-books"  of  Old 
England,  or  the  annual  "Commerce  and  Navigation"  issued  from 
the  United  States  financial  department.* 


*  Paper  manufactured  in  New  England  bears  the  stamp  "  Bath  Post"  and  "  Paris." 
Large  establishments  near  New  York  import  labels  and  wrapping-paper  from  France, 
to  put  in  and  around  hats  which  go  over  the  Union  as  made  on  the  banks  of  the 
Seine.     Staflfordshire   not  only  makes  water-vases  supposed  in  South  America  to 


Entrance  to  San  Paulo.  361 

B.efore  the  sun  had  set,  I  saw  in  the  distance  the  city  of  San 
Paulo.  Its  elevated  position  on  a  small  table-land  that  springs  up 
from  the  plain,  and  its  many  towers  and  steeples  and  old  conventual 
buildings,  give  it  an  appearance  far  more  imposing  than  a  town  of 
greater  population.  Before  ascending  the  hill,  I  passed  the  pavi- 
lion erected  on  the  margin  of  the  Ypiranga  to  commemorate  the 
declaration  of  Brazilian  independence  which  was  emphatically 
made  by  Dom  Pedro  I.  when  (September  7,  1S22)  in  this  place  he 
exclaimed  "  Independencia  ou  Morte!"  Such  a  spot  should  be  hal- 
lowed in  the  thought  of  every  Brazilian,  as  well  as  memorable 
throughout  the  world;  and  it  is  therefore  not  much  to  the  credit 
of  Brazil  or  to  the  province  of  San  Paulo,  fertile  in  patriots,  that  a 
more  fitting  monument,  of  "enduring  brass  or  marble,"  has  not 
hitherto  been  erected  commemorative  of  an  event  of  such  vast 
national  interest. 

Eventide  was  setting  in  as  I  splashed  through  the  Tiete,  the  first 
of  the  La  Platan  affluents  that  I  had  crossed;  and  I  soon  ascended 
to  the  city.  When  I  entered  the  first  street,  I  felt  more  convinced 
than  ever  that  I  was  south  of  the  tropic  of  Capricorn;  for,  though 
verdure  unchanging  can  be  seen  everywhere,  yet  in  the  nights  of 
June  (which  answers  to  December  in  the  northern  hemisphere) 
there  is  experienced  a  chilliness  which  renders  overcoats  comfort- 
able. Mine  had  been  left  behind  by  accident,  and  not  only  my 
feelings  told  me  of  its  absence,  but,  beholding  several  law-students 
well  cloaked,  I  was  forcibly  reminded  of  my  carelessness  and  my 
consequent  suffering.  I  fell  into  conversation  with  the  young 
"limbs  of  the  law,"  and  found  them  exceedingly  affable  and  com- 
municative, as  they  kindly  guided  me  to  the  hotel  of  Senhor  C. 
Observing  a  large  convent  near  at  hand,  I  remarked  that  a  new 
country  like  Brazil  had  little  need  of  a  body  of  monks  and  friars. 
I  was  somewhat  surprised  at  the  earnest  and  ready  reply  of  one, 
who,  apparently  uttering  the  sentiments  of  the  party,  said,  "No, 
Senhor,  we  need  none  of  them:  they  are  a  lazy  set;  and  we 
approve  of  what  the  King  of  Sardinia  has  recently  done  in  regard 

have  been  manufactured  on  the  spot,  but  drives  a  good  trade  with  statues  of  the 
Virgin,  supposed  to  be  the  production  of  Italy  and  France,  where  they  adorn  so 
many  houses  of  the  peasantry. 


362  Brazil  atsid  the  Brazilians. 

to  convents."  Brazil  has  few  monks  in  her  splendid  conventual 
buildings,  and  those  few,  with  the  exception  of  the  Italian  Capu- 
chins, are  indolent,  luxurious,  and  licentious.  The  many  edifices 
already  secularized  are  used  for  state  arsenals,  provincial  palaces, 
libraries,  hospitals,  &c. 

I  could  not  but  contrast  my  introduction  to  S.  Paulo  with  the 
entrance  of  Mr.  3Iawe,  who  nearly  half  a  century  ago  made  the 
acquaintance  of  the  same  city.  In  mj  case  I  rode  into  town  and 
went  to  the  hotel  in  the  same  manner  as  I  would  have  done  in 
Boston,  Liverpool,  or  Geneva.  But  Mr.  Mawe's  experience  with 
Brazil  was  immediately  succeeding  the  opening  of  the  country  by 
royal  decree  in  1808.  In  his  very  readable  "Travels"  he  says, 
"Our  appearance  at  S.Paulo  excited  considerable  curiosity  among 
all  descriptions  of  people,  who  seemed  by  their  manner  never  to 
have  seen  an  Englishman  before.  The  very  children  testified  their 
astonishment, — some  by  running  away,  others  by  counting  our  fin- 
gei'S  and  exclaiming  that  we  had  the  same  number  as  they.  Many 
of  the  good  citizens  invited  us  to  their  houses,  and  sent  for  their 
friends  to  come  and  look  on  us.  As  the  dwelling  we  occujDied  w^as 
very  large,  Ave  were  frequently  entertained  by  crowds  of  young 
persons  of  both  sexes  who  came  to  see  us  eat  and  drink.  It  was 
gratifying  to  us  to  perceive  that  this  general  wonder  subsided  into 
a  more  social  feeling:  we  met  with  civil  treatment  everywhere,  and 
found  great  pleasure  in  a  more  refined  and  polished  company  than 
we  had  seen  in  the  Spanish  settlements." 

Though  San  Paulo  is  still  distinguished  for  its  "  refined  and 
polished"  society,  it  is  hard  at  this  day  to  conceive  of  the  curiosity 
at  seeing  strangers  which  must  have  been  one  of  the  direct  con- 
Bequences  of  Portugal's  Japanese  policy  toward  the  colony  of  Brazil. 

S.  Paulo  is  situated  between  two  small  streams  upon  an  elevation 
of  ground,  the  surface  of  wdiich  is  very  uneven.  Its  streets  are 
narrow,  and  not  laid  out  with  regard  to  system  or  general  regu- 
larity. They  have  narrow  side-walks,  and  are  paved  with  a  ferru- 
ginous conglomerate  closely  resembling  old  red  sandstone,  but  dif- 
fering from  that  formation  by  containing  larger  fragments  of 
quartz, — thus  approaching  bi'eccia. 

Some  of  the  buildings  are  constructed  of  this  stone;  but  the 
material  more  generally  used  in  the  construction  of  houses  is  the 


Taipa  Houses.  363 

common  soil,  which,  being  slightly  moistened,  can  be  laid  up  into 
a  solid  wall.  The  method  is  to  dig  down  several  feet,  as  would  b*^ 
done  for  the  foundation  of  a  stone  house,  then  to  commence  filling 
in  with  the  moistened  earth,  which  is  beaten  as  hard  as  possible. 
As  the  wall  rises  above  ground,  a  frame  of  boards  or  planks  is  made 
to  keep  it  in  the  proper  dimensions,  which  curbing  is  moved  up- 
ward as  fast  as  may  be  necessaiy,  until  the  whole  is  completed. 
These  walls  are  generall}'  very  thick,  especially  in  large  buildings. 
They  are  capable  of  receiving  a  handsome  tinish  within  and  with- 
out, and  are  usually  covered  by  projecting  roofs,  which  preserve 
them  from  the  eflect  of  rains.  Although  this  is  a  reasonable  pre- 
caution, yet  such  walls  have  been  known  to  stand  more  than  a 
hundred  years  without  the  least  protection.  Under  the  influence 
of  the  sun  they  become  indurated,  and  are  like  ono  massive  brick, 
impci'vious  to  water,  while  the  absence  of  frost  promotes  their 
stability. 

From  San  Paulo  I  wrote  to  one  of  my  friends  at  Eio  a  letter, 
from  which  I  take  the  following  extracts: — 

"  June  2G,  1855. 

"1  am  in  a  cold  room, — such  cold  as  1  have  not  before  ex- 
perienced in  Brazil.  The  moon  is  shining  coldly;  men  creep 
about  in  cloaks,  (I  wish  I  had  one,)  and  the  only  thing  that 
possesses  caloric  is  the  candle  which  throws  its  dim  light  upon  this 
paper.  I  ought,  however,  to  except  the  stirring  strain  of  a  distant 
bugle,  that  really  fills  the  night-air  with  a  warming  melody. 

"  Here  I  am  stopped,  because  people  do  nothing  d'appressado 
(in  a  hurry)  in  Brazil.  I  put  my  two  boxes  ashore  at  Santos  on 
the  14th,  and  they  were  not  sent  forward  until  the  23d;  and 
to-day  I  passed  the  rancho  where  the  troop  encamped  last  night. 
This  evening  they  have  reached  a  point  two  miles  beyond  San 
Paulo, — at  which  rate  thej'  will  attain  their  destination — Limeira 
— about  the  14th  of  July,  the  da}^  on  which  I  hope  to  sail  from 
Eio  for  the  northern  provinces.  But  if  possible  I  shall  hire  extra 
mules,  overtake  my  boxes,  transfer  them  to  my  animals,  and  push 
on  so  as  to  reach  the  colony  of  Vergueiro  (more  than  one  hundred 
miles  from  here)  by  Saturday  night. 

"Tell  Scnhor  Fei-nando  Eocha  that  his  friend,  Senhor  Seraphim, 
has  been  most  useful  and  kind  to  me,  running  over  the  whole  town 


364  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

to  procure  for  me  the  requisite  animals.  Do  you  think  that  an 
American  or  an  Enslish  merchant  would  have  done  as  much,  late 
at  night,  for  a  stranger  three  hours  after  his  arrival  ? 

"1  fcAr  you  will  find  me  quite  complaining,  and  place  me  in  the 
category  of  those  travellers  who,  like  Smollett,  were  always  scold- 
ing and  grumbling  about  the  inconveniences  of  the  country  in 
which  they  were  'voyaging.'  I  assure  you  that  I  take  things  as 
nmch  like  a  philosopher  as  possible, — eating  all  kinds  of  food  in 
all  sorts  of  places,  and  sleeping  where  I  would  have  scruples  about 
making  a  daylight  examination.  Fancy,  I  slept,  or  at  least  at- 
tempted it,  last  night  in  a  dirty  German  hospedaria,  with  a  wild 
parrot  overhead  and  my  Calmuck  horse  haltered  just  the  other  side 
of  a  thin  partition:  so,  between  the  music  of  one  biting  his  chain, 
and  the  other  crunching  his  milho,  (Indian  corn,)  I  got  a  very  small 
share  of  'nature's  sweet  restorer.' 

"Yesterday  1  left  Santos,  although  I  was  informed  that  it  was 
impossible  to  start  for  the  interior  the  same  da}'-  that  I  arrived  j 
yet  my  kind  friends,  the  Vergueiros,  enabled  me  to  keep  my  word 
which  I  gave  on  board  the  steamer,  to  the  effect  that  night  should 
see  me  on  my  way.  To-day  I  rode  thirty-two  miles,  which  you 
know,  as  Paulistas  travel,  is  a  good  day's  journey.  As  I  drew  near 
to  San  Paulo  and  gazed  upon  the  green  prairies  dotted  by  hei*ds, 
the  white  houses  surrounded  by  trees,  and  in  the  background  the 
distant  mountains,  I  seemed  to  behold,  as  in  j'ears  gone  by,  the 
like  scenes  of  Burgundj",  Piedmont,  and  Northumberland. 

"I  felt  a  more  profound  respect  for  San  Paulo  than  for  any  South 
American  city  that  I  have  yet  visited.  It  was  larger  than  I  anti- 
cipated, and  its  houses,  with  their  overhanging  eaves,  give  it  an 
appearance  not  unlike  that  of  Vevay,  on  the  Lake  of  Geneva. 
These  eaves,  I  should  say,  extend  over  the  streets  five  or  six  feet, 
protecting  the  passers-by  from  the  rain  and  sun,  and  giving  a  Swiss 
picturesqueness  to  the  whole. 

"My  feelings  of  respect,  however,  arose  not  from  the  size  of  the 
cit}',  nor  from  its  picturesqueness,  but  because  there  is  a  more  in- 
tellectual and  a  less  commercial  air  about  the  people  than  you  see 
elsewhere  in  Brazil.  You  do  not  hear  the  word  dinheiro  constantly 
ringing  in  your  ear,  as  at  Bio  de  Janeiro.  There  are  no  less  than 
five  hundred  law-students  in  the  legal  colleg-e  here  established,  and 


The  Law-Students.  365 

their  appearance  really  recalls  the  Dane  law-school  of  Hai-vard 
University  and  the  students  of  Heidelberg.  The  genus  student  is 
the  same  the  world  over, — full  of  pranks,  fun,  and  mischief.  The 
week  of  my  arrival,  several  scores  of  these  fellows  had  *  kicked  up 
a  row'  (as  one  of  them  elegantly  expressed  it)  at  the  theatre,  so 
that  the  President  of  the  province  ordered  a  strong  police-force  to 
be  present  at  the  next  representation,  and  it  was  not  without  dif- 
ficulty that  order  was  preserved. 

"In  entering  the  city,  I  fell  in  with  a  number  of  these  young 
legalists,  who  conducted  me  to  the  hotel  where  many  of  their 
classmates  were  whiling  away  their  time  at  billiards;  and,  judging 
from  the  sound  of  rolling  balls  and  -lucky  hits'  at  this  late  hour, 
one  would  suppose  they  will  have  little  opportunity  for  preparing 
their  morning   lesson.      The  hotel-keeper    is  a  young  Brazilian, 

educated  at 's,  in  Nova  Fribourgo,  and  speaks  very  good  English. 

He  has  too  many  projects,  however,  to  succeed.  His  last  plan  is 
to  establish  a  sort  of  Surrey  Zoological  Gardens,  for  concerts,  exhi- 
bitions, and  recreation  generally,  at  Rio  de  Janeiro.  His  chosen 
spot  for  this  purpose  is  on  the  Praia  Vermelha,  not  far  from  the 
Sugar-Loaf  Speaking  of  gardens,  I  am  reminded  of  plantations, 
and  will  only  sa}"  that  to-day  I  saw  immense  plantations  of  what  I 
had  first  supposed  to  be  coffee,  but  which  proved  to  be  genuine 
Chinese  'green  tea.' 

"But  now  to  bed:  if  rolling  billiard-balls  will  let  me  sleep,  I  will 
be  refreshed  for  the  journey  of  to-morrow. 

"P.S.  AVednesday  morning. — I  have  a  hoi-se,  a  conductor,  and 
two  mules,  and  shall  be  off  in  a  few  moments.  You  will  next  hear 
from  me  at  Limcira." 

Note  for  1866. — The  Sao  Paulo  and  Jundiahy  Railway  is  now  nearly  completed 
from  Santos  to  Jundiahy  (mentioned  on  page  899).  The  effect  of  these  various 
railways  is  becoming  apparent,  and  though  some  of  them  in  the  Empire  are  not 
very  paying  stock,  there  must  be  in  the  end  a  great  gain  to  the  country.  The 
Sixo  Paulo  road  is  rightly  located  ;  for  it  penetrates  the  interior  of  one  of  the  most 
fertile  of  the  Southern  provinces. 


CHAPTEE  XX. 

HISTORY     OF     SAN     PAULO — TERRESTRIAL     PARADISE REVERSES    OF    THE    JESUITS 

ENSLAVEMENT    OF     THE     INDIANS — HISTORICAL    DATA THE    ACADEMY    OF    LAWS 

COURSE     OF     STUDY DISTINGUISHED     MEN THE     ANDRADAS JOs£    BONIFACIO 

ANTONIO      CARLOS ALVARES      MACHADO VERGUEIRO BISHOP     MOURA A     VISIT 

TO     FEIJO — PROPOSITION     TO     ABOLISH     CELIBACY AN     INTERESTING    BOOK THE 

DEATH      OF      ANTONIO     CARLOS      DE     ANDRADA HIGH       EULOGIUM MISSIONARY 

EFFORTS    IN    SAN    PAULO EARLY    AND    PRESENT    CONDITION    OF    THE     PROVINCE — ■ 

HOSPITALITIES     OP    A    PADRE ENCOURAGEMENTS THE    PEOPLE PROPOSITION    TO 

THE     PROVINCIAL     ASSEMBLY RESPONSE RESULT ADDENDA PRESENT     ENCOU- 
RAGEMENTS. 

The  history  of  San  Paulo  takes  us  back  to  an  early  period  in  the 
settlement  of  the  New  World  by  Europeans.  It  has  already  been 
remarked  that,  in  1531,  Martin  Affonso  de  Souza  founded  S.Vicente, 
the  first  town  in  the  captaincy,  which  for  a  long  time  bore  the 
same  appellation.  There  had  previously  been  shipwrecked  on  the 
coast  an  individual  by  the  name  of  Joiio  Earaalho,  who  had  ac- 
quired the  language  of  the  native  tribes  and  secured  influence 
among  them  by  marrying  a  daughter  of  one  of  their  principal 
caciques.  Through  his  interposition,  peace  was  secured  with  the 
savages  and  the  interests  of  the  colony  were  fostered.  Ey  degrees 
the  settlement  extended  itself  inland,  and'  in  1553  some  of  the 
Jes^iits  who  accompanied  Thome  de  Souza,  the  first  captain-general, 
found  their  way  to  the  region  styled  the  plains  of  Piratininga,  and 
selected  the  elevated  locality  on  which  the  city  now  stands,  as  the 
site  of  a  village,  in  which  they  commenced  to  gather  together  and 
instruct  the  Indians. 

Having  erected  a  small  mud  cottage  on  the  spot  Avhere  their 

college  was  subsequently  built,  they  2:)rocceded  to  consecrate  it  by 

a  mass,  recited  on  the  25th  of  January,  1554.     That,  being  the  day 

on  which  the  conversion  of  St.  Paul  is  celebrated  by  the  Eoman 

Church,  gave  the  name  of  the  apostle  to  the  town,  and  subsequently 
306 


A  Terrestrial  Paradise.  367 

to  the  province.  St.  Paul  is  still  considered  the  patron  saint  of 
both.  A  confidential  letter,  wi-itten  by  one  of  these  Jesuits  to  his 
brethren  in  Portugal,  in  addition  to  many  interesting  particulars 
on  other  subjects,  contains  the  following  passage,  which  may  serve 
to  show  how  the  country  appeai-ed  to  those  who  saw  it  nearly  three 
hundred  years  ago.  This  letter  exists  in  a  manuscript  book  taken 
from  the  Jesuits  at  the  time  of  their  expulsion  from  Brazil,  and 
still  preserved  in  the  National  Library  at  Eio  de  Janeiro.  Its  date 
is  1560.  No  part  of  it  is  known  to  have  been  hitherto  rendered 
into  English  previous  to  the  translation  made  by  Eev,  Dr.  Kidder. 

'*  For  Christ's  sake,  dearest  brethren,  I  beseech  you  to  get  rid  of 
the  bad  idea  you  have  hitherto  entertained  of  Brazil:  to  speak  the 
truth,  if  there  were  a  paradise  on  earth,  I  would  say  it  now  existed 
here.  And  if  I  think  so,  I  am  unable  to  conceive  who  will  not. 
Respecting  spiritual  matters  and  the  service  of  God,  they  are 
prospering,  as  I  have  before  told  you;  and  as  to  temporal  affairs, 
there  is  nothing  to  be  desired.  Melancholy  cannot  fee  found  here, 
unless  you  dig  deeper  for  it  than  were  the  foundations  of  the  palace 
of  S.  Eoque.  There  is  not  a  more  healthy  place  in  the  world,  nor 
a  more  pleasant  country,  abounding  as  it  does  in  all  kinds  of  fruit 
and  food,  so  as  to  leave  me  no  desire  for  those  of  Europe.  If  in 
Portugal  you  have  fowls,  so  do  we  in  abundance,  and  very  cheap; 
if  you  have  mutton,  we  here  have  wild  animals,  whose  flesh  is 
decidedly  superior;  if  you  have  wine  there,  I  aver  that  I  find  my- 
self better  off  with  such  water  as  we  have  here  than  with  the 
wines  of  Portugal.  Do  you  have  bread,  so  do  I  sometimes,  and 
always  what  is  better,  since  there  is  no  doubt  but  that  the  flour  of 
this  country  (mandioca)  is  more  healthy  than  your  bread.  As  to 
fruits,  we  have  a  great  variety;  and,  having  these,  I  say  let  any 
one  eat  those  of  the  old  country  who  likes  them.  What  is  more, 
in  addition  to  yielding  all  the  year,  vegetable  productions  are  so 
easily  cultivated  (it  being  hardly  necessary  to  plant  them)  that 
nobody  can  be  so  poor  as  to  be  in  want.  As  to  recreations,  yours 
are  in  no  way  to  be  compared  with  what  we  have  here. 

"Now,  I  am  desirous  that  some  of  you  should  come  out  and  put 
these  matters  to  the  test;  since  I  do  not  hesitate  to  give  my  opinion, 
that,  if  any  one  wishes  to  live  in  a  terrestrial  paradise,  he  should 
not  stop  short  of  Brazil.     Let  him  that  doubts  my  Avord  come  and 


368  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

see.  Some  will  say,  What  sort  of  a  life  can  that  man  lead  who 
sleeps  in  a  hammock  swung  up  in  the  air?  Let  me  tell  them,  they 
have  no  idea  what  a  fine  arrangement  this  is.  I  had  a  bed  with 
mattresses,  but,  my  physician  advising  me  to  sleep  in  a  hammock,  I 
found  the  latter  so  much  preferable,  that  I  never  have  been  able  to 
take  the  least  satisfaction,  or  rest  a  single  night,  upon  a  bed  since. 
Others  may  have  their  opinions,  but  these  are  mine,  founded  upon 
experience." 

The  Jesuits,  unhappily,  did  not  find  this  paradise  to  be  perennial. 
Their  benevolence,  and  their  philanthropic  devotedness  to  the  In- 
dians, brought  down  upon  them  the  hatred  of  their  countrymen, 
the  Portuguese,  and  of  the  Mamalucos,  as  the  half-breeds  were 
denominated.  These  two  classes  commenced  at  an  early  day  the 
enslavement  of  the  aboriginals,  and  they  continued  it  through  suc- 
cessive generations,  Avith  a  ferocious  and  bloodthirsty  perseverance 
that  has  seldom  found  parallel.  As  the  Jesuits  stoadfastl}^  opposed 
their  cruelties,  the  Portuguese  resorted  to  every  means  of  annoy- 
ance against  them.  They  ridiculed  the  savages  for  any  compliance 
with  the  religious  formalities  in  which  they  were  so  diligently  in- 
structed,— encouraging  them  to  continue  in  their  heathen  vices,  and 
even  in  the  abominations  of  cannibalism.  Nevertheless,  these  mis- 
sionaries did  not  labor  without  considerable  success.  The  Govern- 
ment was  on  their  side,  but  was  unable  to  protect  them  from  the 
persecutions  of  their  brethren,  who,  although  calling  themselves 
Christians,  were  as  insensible  to  the  fear  of  God  as  they  were 
regardless  of  the  rights  of  men.  From  the  pursuit  of  their  ima- 
gined interest,  nothing  could  deter  them  but  positive  force.  As  the 
Indians  were  driven,  back  into  the  wilds  of  the  interior,  through 
fear  of  the  slave-hunters,  the  Jesuits  sought  them  out,  and  carried 
to  them  the  opportunities  of  Christian  worsliip  and  instruction.  It 
was  thus  that  a  commencement  was  made  to  the  celebrated  Reduc- 
tions of  Paraguay,  which  occupy  so  wide  a  sj)ace  in  the  early 
history  of  South  America.  Sometimes  the  Paulistas  would  dis- 
guise themselves  in  the  garb  of  the  Jesuits,  in  order  to  decoy  the 
natives  whom  they  wished  to  capture.  At  other  times  they  as- 
saulted the  Eeductions,  or  villages  of  neophytes,  boasting  that  the 
priests  were  very  serviceable  in  thus  gathering  together  their 
prey. 


Historical  Data.  869 

Voluntary  expeditions  of  these  slave-hunters,  styled  bandciras, 
spent  months,  and  sometimes  years,  in  the  most  cruel  and  deso- 
lating wars  against  the  native  tribes.  Instigated  by  the  lust  of 
human  plunder,  some  penetrated  into  what  is  now  the  interior  of 
Bolivia  on  the  west ;  while  others  reached  the  very  Amazon  on  the 
north.  As  the  Indians  became  thinned  off  by  these  remorseless 
aggressions,  another  enterprise  presented  itself  as  a  stimulant  to 
their  avarice.  It  was  that  of  hunting  for  gold.  Success  in  the 
latter  enterjDrise  created  new  motives  for  the  prosecution  of  the 
former.  Slaves  must  be  bad  to  work  the  mines.  Thus,  the  exter- 
mination of  the  native  tribes  of  Brazil  progressed,  for  scores  of 
years,  with  fearful  rapidity.  One  result  of  these  expeditions  was 
an  enlargement  of  the  territories  of  Portugal  and  an  extension 
of  settlements.  By  the  growth  of  these  settlements  four  large 
provinces  were  populated.  They  have  since  been  set  off  from  that 
of  S.  Paulo,  in  the  following  order  : — Minas-Geraes,  in  1720 ;  Eio 
Grande  do  Sul,  in  1738;  Goyaz  and  Matto  Grosso,  in  1748. 

During  the  period  when  Portugal  and  her  colonies  were  under 
the  dominion  of  Spain,  a  considerable  number  of  Spanish  families 
became  inhabitants  of  the  captaincy  of  S.  Paulo;  and  when,  in 
1640,  that  dominion  came  to  an  end,  a  numerous  party  disposed 
itself  to  resist  the  Government  of  Portugal.  They  proceeded  to 
proclaim  one  Amador  Bueno,  king;  but  this  individual  had  the 
sagacity  and  patriotism  peremptorily  to  decline  the  dignity  his 
friends  were  anxious  to  confer  upon  him.  The  Paulistas  have 
been  subsequentlj'  second  to  none  in  their  loyalty  to  the  legitimate 
Government  of  the  country;  unless,  indeed,  the  unhapp}'-  disturb- 
ances that  occurred  among  them  in  the  years  1841-42  be  con- 
sidered as  forming  an  exception  to  this  remark.  It  is  now  one 
of  the  most  prosperous  provinces  of  the  Empire. 

My  colleague  remained  many  days  in  the  provincial  capital,  and 
gives  the  following  account  of  its  institutions  and  great  men  : — 

'<The  Academy  of  Laws,  or,  as  it  is  frequently  denominated,  the 
University  of  S.  Paulo,  ranks  first  among  all  the  literary  institu- 
tions of  the  Empire.  I  enjoyed  an  excellent  opportunity  for  visit- 
ing it,  being  introduced  by  the  secretary  and  acting  president,  Dr. 
Brotero.     This  gentleman — whose  lady  is  a  native  of  the  United 

States — desei'ves  honorable  mention,  not   only  for  the  zeal  and 

24 


370  .  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

ability  Avith  which  he  administers  the  affairs  of  tho  institution 
of  which  he  has  since  become  the  president,  but  also  as  an  author. 
He  has  published  a  standard  work  on  the  Principles  of  Natural 
Law,  and  a  treatise  upon  Maritime  Prizes. 

"The  edifice  of  the  Curso  Juridico  was  originally  constructed  as 
a  convent  by  the  Franciscan  monks,  whom  the  Government  com- 
pelled to  abandon  it  for  its  present  more  profitable  use.  Being 
larger  and  well  built,  a  few  alterations  rendered  it  quite  suitable 
to  the  purposes  for  which  it  was  required.  The  lecture  and  recita- 
tion ro'oms  are  on  the  first  floor,  the  professors'  rooms  and  library 
on  the  second;  these,  together  with  an  ample  court-j^ard,  compose 
the  whole  establishment,  save  two  immense  chapels  still  devoted 
to  their  original  design.  In  one  of  these  I  found  several  very 
decent  paintings,  and  also  an  immense  staging,  upon  which  work- 
men were  engaged  finishing  the  stucco-work  upon  the  principal 
arch  of  the  vaulted  roof  Both  chapels  abounded  with  mytho- 
logical representations  of  the  patron  saint,  both  in  images  and 
colors.  The  library  of  the  institution,  containing  seven  thousand 
volumes,  is  composed  of  the  collection  formerly  belonging  to  the 
Franciscans,  a  pai't  of  which  was  bequeathed  to  the  convent  by  the 
Bishop  of  Madeira;  the  library  of  a  deceased  bishop  of  S.  Paulo; 
a  donation  of  seven  hundred  volumes  from  the  first  dii'ector ;  and 
some  additions  ordered  by  the  Government.  It  was  not  over- 
stocked with  books  upon  law  or  belles-lettres,  and  was  quite  defi- 
cient in  the  department  of  science.  The  only  compensation  for 
such  deficiencies  was  a  superabundance  of  unread  and  unreadable 
tomes  on  theology.  Among  all  these,  however,  there  was  not  to 
be  found  a  single  copy  of  the  Bible — the  fountain  of  all  correct 
theology — in  the  vernacular  language  of  the  country;  a  rarer 
volume  than  which,  at  least  in  former  years,  could  scarcely  have 
been  mentioned  at  S.  Paulo.  This  particular  deficiency  I  had  the 
happiness  of  supplying  by  the  donation  of  Pereira's  Portuguese 
translation,  bearing  this  inscription  : — 

"AG   BIBLIOTHECA   DA   ACADEMIA   JURIDICA   DE    S.  PAULO 

DA   SOCIEDADE   BIBLICA   AMERICANA 

PELO    SEU    CORRESPONDENTE 

„  „  „  D.  P.  Kidder. 

CiDADE    DE    S.  PaTJLO,  "l 

16  de  Fev'o  de  1839.   j 


The  Academy  of  Laws.  371 

''The  history  and  statistics  of  the  institution  were  kindly  com- 
nmnicated  to  me  by  the  secretary-,  in  a  paper,  from  which  the 
following  abstract  is  translated  : — 

"The  Academy  of  the  Legal  and  Social  Sciences  of  the  city  of 
S.  Paulo  was  created  by  a  law  dated  August  11,  1827.  It  was  for- 
mally opened,  by  the  first  professor,  Dr.  Jose  Maria  de  Avellar 
Brotero,  on  the  1st  da}^  of  March,  1828, — Lieutenant-General  Jose 
Arouche  de  Toledo  Eendon  being  first  director. 

"The  statutes  by  which  it  is  governed  were  approved  by  law, 
November  7,  1831. 

"The  studies  of  the  preparatory  course  are — Latin,  French, 
English,  Ehetoric,  Eational  and  Moral  Philosophy,  Geometry,  His- 
tory, and  Geography. 

"The  regular  course  extends  through  five  years.  The  several 
professorships  are  thus  designated  : — 

"First  Year. — 1st  professorship,  Philosophy  of  Law,  Public  Law, 
Analysis  of  the  Constitution  of  the  Empire,  and  Eoman  Law. 

"Second  Year. — 1st  professorship,  Continuation  of  the  above  sub- 
jects, International  Law,  and  Diplomacy;  2d  professorship.  Public 
Ecclesiastical  Law. 

"Third  Year. — 1st  professorship,  Civil  Laws  of  the  Empire; 
2d  j)rofessorship,  Criminal  Laws,  Theory  of  the  Criminal  Process. 

"Fourth  Year. — 1st  professorship,  Continuation  of  Civil  Law ; 
2d  professorship,  Mei^cantile  and  Maritime  Law. 

"Fifth  Year. — 1st  professorship.  Political  Economy;  2d  professor- 
ship. Theory  and  Practice  of  General  Law,  adapted  to  the  Code  of 
the  Empire. 

"The  age  of  sixteen  years  and  an  acquaintance  with  all  the  pre- 
paratory studies  are  requisite  in  order  to  enter  the  regular  course. 
No  student  can  advance  without  having  passed  a  satisfactoiy 
examination  on  the  studies  of  the  pi-eceding  year.  "When  the 
examinations  of  the  fifth  year  are  passed  acceptably,  the  Academy 
confers  the  degree  of  Bachelor  of  Arts;  and  every  Bachelor  is 
entitled  to  present  theses  on  which  to  be  examined  as  a  candidate 
for  the  degree  of  Bachelor  of  Laws. 

"In  examinations  on  the  course,  students  are  interrogated  by 
three  pi'ofessors  for  the  space  of  twenty  minutes  each.  Coni- 
petitors    for   the    Doctorate    are    required    to    argue   upon   their 


372  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

theses  with  nine  professors  successively,  each  discussion  lasting 
half  an  hour.  At  the  end  of  each  examination,  the  professors, 
by  secret  ballot,  determine  the  approval  or  rejection  of  the 
candidate. 

"In  order  to  explain  the  peculiarities  of  the  above  course  of 
study,  it  should  be  remarked  that,  in  its  arrangement,  the  Uni- 
versity of  Coimbra  was  followed  as  a  model.  The  education  im- 
parted by  it  may  be  formal  and  exact  in  its  way,  but  can  never  bo 
popular.  The  Brazilian  people  look  more  to  utility  than  to  the 
antiquated  forms  of  a  Portuguese  university;  and  I  apprehend  it 
will  be  found  necessary,  ere  long,  in  order  to  secure  students  at 
the  University  of  S.  Paulo,  to  condense  and  modernize  the  course 
of  instruction." 

In  1855,  the  prosperity  of  the  Law-Academy  was  no  longer  a 
matter  of  doubt,  as  at  that  time  there  were  two  hundred  and 
ninety-six  students  in  the  five  classes,  and  three  hundred  moi-e  in 
the  preparatory  course,  which,  by  recurring  to  their  list  of  studies, 
I  find  (^miniis  the  Greek  language)  to  be  very  similar  to  the  studies 
in  most  colleges  in  the  United  States.  Under  Senhor  Brotero,  the 
institution  at  San  Paulo  has  become  exceedingly  popular,  and, 
doubtless,  is  far  more  practical  than  in  the  first  years  of  its  exist- 
ence. It  is  here  and  at  the  Pernambuco  Law-School  (which  con- 
tains three  hundred  and  twenty  students  in  the  regular  course) 
that  the  statesmen  of  Brazil  receive  that  education  which  so  much 
better  fits  them  for  the  Imperial  Parliament  and  the  various  legis- 
lative assemblies  of  their  land  than  any  preparatives  that  exist  in 
the  Spanish-American  countries. 

"My  sojourn  at  S.  Paulo,"  continues  Dr.  Kidder,  "was  rendered 
inereasingl}'  intei'csting  by  repeated  interviews  with  several  distin- 
guished citizens  of  the  province.  One  evening,  while  walking  in 
eompan}^  with  several  gentlemen  in  the  extensive  gardens  of  Senhor 
Eaphael  Tobias  d'Aguiar,  a  popular  ex-president  of  the  province 
and  one  of  its  largest  land-proprietors,  the  conversation  turned 
upon  the  different  foreign  travellers  in  Brazil.  Mawe  was  recol- 
lected by  some;  but  St.  Hilaire,  the  French  botanist,  enjoyed  the 
highest  consideration  of  all,  as  having  accomplished  his  task  in  the 
most  thorough  manner. 

"Senhor  Eaphael  related  a  very  interesting  anecdote, ^communi- 


Distinguished  Men.  373 

cated  to  liim  by  St.  Hilaire.  A  poor  man  in  England,  in  reading 
the  work  of  Mr.  Mawe,  had  become  so  enthusiastic  with  the  idea 
of  the  vegetable  and  mineral  riches  of  Brazil,  that,  in  order  to  get 
to  the  country,  he  actuall}'  came  out  in  the  capacity  of  a  servant. 
After  reaching  Eio  de  Janeiro,  he  had  by  some  means  found  his 
wa}^  up  the  Serras  into  the  interior,  where  his  industrious  exer- 
tions had  been  rewarded  with  success,  and  whei'e  the  botanist 
found  him  actually  possessed  of  a  fortune. 

"Among  the  distinguished  men  of  S.Paulo,  I  will  first  mention 
the  Andradas, — three  brothers,  whose  family  residence  is  Santos. 
These  brothers  were  all  educated  at  the  University  of  Coimbra,  in 
Portugal,  and  received  the  degrees  of  Doctors  in  Jurisprudence  and 
Philosophj^,  and  the  3'ounger  that  of  Mathematics. 

"Jose  Bonifacio,  the  eldest,  after  his  gi-aduation,  travelled  several 
years  in  the  northern  countries  of  Europe, — devoting  himself  mean- 
while to  scientific  researches,  the  results  of  which  it  was  his  inten- 
tion to  publish  in  Brazil.  On  his  return  to  Portugal  he  was  created 
Professor  of  Metallurgy  in  Coimbra,  and  of  Medicine  in  Lisbon. 
While  engaged  in  these  professorships,  he  published  several  trea- 
tises of  much  merit,  among  which  was  a  dissertation  on  'The 
Necessity  of  Planting  New  Forests  in  Portugal,  and  particularly 
of  Fir-Trees  along  the  Sandy  Coasts  of  the  Sea-Shore.'  His  valor 
was  called  out  by  the  invasion  of  Portugal,  when  he  organized  and 
headed  a  body  of  students  who  determined  to  do  what  they  could 
toward  repelling  the  army  of  Napoleon.  In  1819  he  returned  to 
Brazil  in  time  to  take  a  leading  part  in  the  revolution  of  inde- 
pendence.    (He  died  at  Praia  Grande  in  1838.) 

"Antonio  Carlos  returned  to  Brazil  soon  after  having  completed 
his  education.  In  the  year  1817,  while  executing  the  office  of 
Ouvidor  in  Pernambuco,  he  was  arrested  as  an  accomplice  of  the 
conspirators  in  a  revolt  which  broke  out  at  that  time.  He  was 
sent  to  Bahia  and  thrown  into  prison,  where  he  remained  four 
years.  As  a  pi'oof  of  his  philanthropy  as  well  as  of  his  indomitable 
energy  of  mind,  it  must  be  mentioned  that  he  spent  this  long 
period  almost  exclusively  in  instructing  a  number  of  his  fellow- 
prisoners  in  rhetoric,  foreign  languages,  and  the  elements  of 
science.  Being  at  length  liberated,  he  returned  to  San  Paulo, 
where  ho  was  shortly  afterward  elected  deputy  for  that  province 


374  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

in  the  Cortes  of  Lisbon.  He  assumed  liis  duties  in  that  body,  and 
remained  in  it  until  the  increasing  insults  and  aggravations  which 
were  heaped  upon  the  Brazilians,  without  the  hoj)e  of  redress, 
forced  him  and  several  of  his  colleagues,  among  whom  was  Feijo, 
to  withdraw  and  embark  secretly  for  England.  Having  arrived  at 
Falmouth,  they  published  a  solemn  declaration  of  the  motives 
which  induced  them  to  desert  the  Cortes  and  to  quit  Lisbon, 
Thence  the}'  returned  to  their  native  country. 

"Martin  Francisco,  the  younger  brother,  had  won  high  dis- 
tinctions as  a  scholar,  and,  from  early  life,  was  the  frequent 
subject  of  political  honor.  At  the  first  organization  of  the 
Imperial  Government  he  was  created  Minister  of  Finance,  and 
in  this  capacity  did  the  country  important  service, —  his  elder 
brother  being  at  the  same  time  Minister  of  State  and  of  Foreign 
Affairs.  At  this  period  the  three  brothers  were  all  elected  mem- 
bers of  the  Assembly  which  convened  to  prepare  a  Constitution 
for  the  Empire. 

"Before  the  discussions  of  that  body  were  brought  to  a  close,  the 
Emperor  was  induced,  by  the  coalition  of  two  minor  parties,  to 
dismiss  the  Andrada  Ministry  and  to  apjDoint  Royalists  as  their 
successors.  The  jDOwerful  opposition  which  the  brothers  imme- 
diately arrayed  against  those  by  whom  they  had  been  supplanted 
made  the  position  of  the  new  Ministry  and  that  of  the  Emperor 
also  extremely  embarrassing.  Attacks  produced  recrimination, 
until  the  Emperor  at  length  resolved  upon  the  i-ash  and  desperate 
expedient  of  dissolving  the  Assembly  by  force,  which  he  succeeded 
in  accomplishing,  and  then  apprehended  the  three  brothers  Andrada 
and  a  few  others  who  were  leaders  of  the  opjjosition.  They  were 
all,  without  the  least  examination  or  trial,  conveyed  on  board  a 
vessel  nearly  ready  for  sea,  and  transported  to  France. 

"Their  time  in  Europe  was  not  idly  spent.  Already  acquainted 
with  all  the  more  imjjortant  modern  languages,  they  devoted  them- 
selves to  literarj'  pursuits  and  the  society  of  the  learned  with  all 
the  enthusiasm  of  students. 

"In  the  year  1828,  the  two  younger  brothers  returned  to  Rio, 
and,  after  a  short  detention  in  the  prison  of  the  Ilha  das  Cobras, 
received  a  full  pardon  from  the  Emperor.  Jose  Bonifacio  came  out 
in  1829  from  France. 


Jose  Bonifacio — Antonio  Carlos  de  Andrada.      875 

''The  French  admiral,  who  had  known  him  in  Europe,  sent  im- 
mediately to  offer  him  every  attention;  but  Andrada  requested 
iiim  to  make  no  demonstration,  as  he  was  very  uncertain  how  he 
might  be  received.  But  as  soon  as  the  arrival  of  the  ship  was 
known,  Calmon,  the  Minister  of  Finance,  went  immediately  on 
board  to  offer  his  congratulations  and  ever}'  kind  civility.  On 
Andrada's  interview  with  the  Emperor,  it  is  said  th  it  the  latter 
proposed  an  embrace,  and  that  all  the  past  should  be  forgotten. 
Andrada  replied,  with  Roman  firmness,  that  the  embrace  he  would 
most  cheerfully  give,  but  to  forget  the  jDast  was  impossible. 

"The  Emperor  then  proposed  to  him  to  enter  into  the  Ministry, 
but  he  declined,  assuring  His  Majesty  that  he  only  returned  to 
Brazil  to  live  in  retirement.  Nevertheless,  Jose  Bonifacio,  in  his 
old  age,  was  the  individual  to  whom  the  Emperor,  on  his  abdica- 
tion, confided  the  guardianship  of  his  children.  He  had  then 
proved  the  faithlessness  of  many  of  those  officious  partisans  who 
had  urged  him  forward  in  his  attempted  overthrow  of  the  men 
who  were  his  earliest  and  most  devoted  friends.  The  Emperor 
had  learned,  by  painful  experience,  how  to  appreciate  real 
patriotism. 

"Antonio  Carlos  and  Martin  Francisco  had  no  sooner  returned 
to  their  native  province,  than  they  were  immediately  restored  by 
their  countrymen  to  important  offices,  and  have  ever  since  retained 
a  prominent  position  in  the  national  councils.  They  have,  more- 
over, continued  the  same  ardent  and  fearless  advocates  of  their 
principles  that  they  Avere  in  early  life. 

"It  has  been  said,  and  perhaps  justly,  that  'the  Andradas,  when 
in  power,  were  arbitrary,  and,  when  out  of  place,  f^^ctious;  but 
their  views  were  ever  great,  and  their  probity  unimpeachable.' 
Their  disinterestedness  was  manifest,  and  is  deserving  of  eulogy. 
Title  and  wealth  were  within  their  reach ;  but  they  retired  from 
office  undecorated,  and  in  honorable  poverty.  In  many  of  their 
acts  they  were  doubtless  censurable;  yet,  when  the  critical  circum- 
stances of  Brazil  at  the  period  are  taken  into  consideration,  surely 
some  apology  may  be  made  for  their  errors.  When  old  age  re- 
quired Jose  Bonifjicio  to  withdraw  from  public  business,  he  retired 
to  the  beautiful  island  of  Paqueta,  in  the  Bay  of  Rio  de  Janeiro. 
He  died  in  1838;    and,  if  there  is  any  one  fact  that  more  loudly 


376  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

than  another  iipbraids  the  lack  of  literary  enterpi'ise  in  Brazil,  it 
is  that  no  memoir  of  so  distinguished  an  individual  has  made  its 
appearance,  or,  so  far  as  I  could  learn  from  his  brothers,  was  ever 
contemplated. 

"Both  Antonio  Carlos  and  Martin  Francisco  are  distinguished, 
powerful  orators.  The  latter  is  clear,  expressive,  and  chaste  in 
his  diction ;  the  former  is  fluent,  impetuous,  and  sometimes  extra- 
vagant. Antonio  Carlos  is  particularly  fond  of  the  arena  of  debate, 
and  few  questions  come  before  the  Provincial  or  National  Assembly 
which  are  not  subjected  to  the  searching  analysis  of  his  acute  mind 
and  to  the  often-dreaded  ordeal  of  his  flaming  rhetoric.  His  speeches 
abound  in  beautiful  illustrations  from  the  French,  Spanish,  Italian, 
and  English  poets;  and,  when  discussing  questions  of  jurisprudence 
and  diplomacy,  his  references  display  a  critical  acquaintance  with 
standard  English  authors  upon  those  subjects.  As  a  random  speci- 
men of  his  style  of  eloquence,  I  will  ti'anslate  a  paragraph  from  his 
Bpeech  in  the  General  Assembl}^  at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  in  1839,  on  the 
much-debated  question  whether  foreign  troops  should  be  hired  to 
compose  the  standing  army  of  the  Empire. 

"After  having  gone  through  with  an  elaborate  argument,  he 
Bays,  'I  am  unwilling  to  weary  the  house.  I  have  proved  that  the 
measure  is  anti-constitutional,  that  it  is  injurious  to  the  dignity 
of  Brazil,  that  it  is  useless,  that  it  is  impolitic,  and  that  it  will  be 
oppressive  to  the  nation. 

"'Now  I  must  close.  It  pains  me  to  think  that  such  a  measure 
can  possibly  be  approved.  Such  is  the  aversion  I  cherish  toward 
it,  that  I  am  caused  to  fear  that,  if  it  should  pass,  some  of  our 
citizens  will  wish  themselves  alienated  from  the  land  of  their  birth; 
alienated,  I  was  about  to  say,  from  a  degraded  nation.  But  this 
tongue  cannot  utter  such  a  reproach,  nor  this  heart  anticijsate 
such  an  injury,  to  the  Brazilian  people. 

"'Every  night,  when  I  seek  rest  upon  my  humble  couch,  the 
first  act  of  devotion  I  render  to  God  is  a  thanksgiving  that  I  was 
born  upon  this  blessed  soil, — in  a  countJj^  in  Avhich  innocence  and 
liberty  were  natives,  but  from  which  they  temporarily  fled  away 
on  the  approach  of  those  iron  fetters  of  social  bondage  which 
Cabral,  tlie  accidental  discoverer,  imported  in  connection  with  the 
limited  civilization  of  Portugal. 


Antonio  Carlos  and  Alvares  Machado.  377 

•'  *  Eis,  descobreis  Cabral  os  Brazis  nao  buscados, 
C  OS  salgados  vestidos  gotejando, 
Pesado  beijas  as  douradas  pray  as, 
E  4s  Gentes  que  te  hospedao,  ignaras 
Do  Vindouro,  os  grilboes  lan9as, 
Miserandos  !     Entao  a  liberdade, 
As  azas  nao  manchadas  de  baixa  tyrannia 
Soltou  isenta  pelos  ares  livres. 

"'  So  it  was  an  infamous  series  of  oppressive  laws  and  sliameful 
proscriptions  was  imposed  upon  our  poor  ancestors,  and  would 
have  rested  upon  us  to-day,  had  not  the  grand  achievement  of  our 
national  indej^endence  set  us  free !  Allow  me  to  remark  a  startling 
coincidence.  To-morrow  will  be  the  anniversary  of  that  indepen- 
dence,— an  event  ever  to  be  remembered.  To-day  an  effort  is  made, 
which,  if  successful,  will  throw  clouds  and  gloom  over  it,  and  thus 
efface  the  brightest  picture  in  our  history. 

"'How  is  it  that  we,  who  were  able  to  shake  off  the  yoke  of 
foreign  bondage  without  the  aid  of  mercenary  troops;  are  supposed 
to  be  incompetent  to  crush  rebellion  within  our  own  borders? 
Shameful  reflection !  Is  Bento  Gonsalves  some  European  adven- 
turer? No!  be  is  a  Brazilian,  like  us;  and  least  of  all  can  he 
withstand  Brazilians. 

"'My  heart  is  overflowing,  but  my  tongue  fails  to  express  my 
thoughts.  If  this  measure  pass,  I  shall  have  nothing  left  me  to 
do  but  to  hide  my  head,  and  to  weep  and  sigh,  in  the  language  of 
Moore, — 

"  '  Alas  for  my  country  !  her  pride  is  gone  by. 

And  that  spirit  is  broken  which  never  would  bend : 
O'er  the  ruin  her  children  in  secret  must  sigh, — 
For  'tis  treason  to  love  her,  'tis  death  to  defend.' 

"  An  intimate  friend  and  political  associate  of  Antonio  Carlos  is 
Senhor  Alvares  Machado,  another  aged  Paulista,  also  celebrated 
for  his  prompt  and  often  passionate  eloquence.  A  brief  extract 
from  one  of  his  speeches  in  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  forcibly 
expresses  the  provincial  pride  which  the  Paulistas  cherish  to- 
gether with  their  sentiments  of  independence.  'How,'  said  he, 
'can  the  present  administration  expect  to  intimidate  us,  who  never 
succumbed  to  the  founder  of  the  Empire?     We  spoke  the  language 


378  Bkazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

of  liberty,  of  justice,  and  of  truth,  to  a  king  and  the  descendant  of 
kings. 

** '  On  one  occasion  it  was  proposed  to  construct  our  constitution 
after  the  monarchial  model,  and  to  accom2:)lish  this  intrigues  were 
set  on  foot  in  all  the  provinces.  What  then  was  our  language  ? 
"Sire,"  said  we  to  the  monarch,  "despotism  may  be  planted  in  the 
province  of  S.  Paulo,  but  it  will  be  upon  the  bones  of  the  last  of 
her  inhabitants."' 

"Another  prominent  member  of  the  provincial  legislature  of 
S.  Paulo  was  Vergueiro,  a  Senator  of  the  Empire.  This  gentle- 
man, a  Portuguese  by  birth,  has  long  been  conspicuous  in  Brazil. 
Previous  to  the  independence  of  the  colony,  he  was  one  of  the 
deputies  to  the  Cortes  of  Lisbon,  and  had  there  distinguished  him- 
self above  most  of  his  colleagues  for  the  open  and  explicit  manner 
in  which  he  defended  the  interests  and  privileges  of  the  land  of  his 
adoption.  Subsequently,  while  in  the  Brazilian  Senate,  he  main- 
tained his  reputation  as  a  skilful  debater  and  a  sincere  friend  of 
liberal  institutions.  During  the  scenes  connected  with  the  abdication 
of  the  first  Emjjeror,  he  acted  an  important  part,  and,  as  has 
already  been  stated,  was  appointed  at  the  head  of  the  provisional 
Eegency. 

"  During  one  of  my  visits  to  the  Provincial  Assembly  of  S.  Paulo, 
this  gentleman  made  a  long  and  interesting  speech  on  the  subject 
of  the  outbreak  and  disorders  at  Villa  Franca. 

"The  sessions  of  this  legislative  body  are  held  in  an  apartment 
of  the  old  College  of  the  Jesuits,  which  has  long  since  been  appro- 
priated to  the  uses  of  the  Government.  My  attendance  upon  its 
deliberations  was  not  very  frequent,  although  several  of  my  visits 
were  quite  interesting.  Probably  no  provincial  legislature  in  the 
Empire  presented  a  greater  array  of  learning,  of  experience,  and 
of  talent,  than  did  this.  At  the  period  of  w^hich  I  am  speaking, 
Martin  Francisco  de  Andrada  occupied  the  Presidential  chair,  while 
Senhores  Antonio  Carlos,  Yergueiro,  Alvares  Machado,  Eaphael 
Tobias,  the  Bishops  of  S.  Paulo,  of  Cuyaba,  and  Moura,  the  Bishop- 
elect  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  with  various  other  gentlemen  of  distinction, 
took  part  in  the  proceedings. 

"At  the  close  of  one  of  the  sessions,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meet- 
ing several  of  these  gentlemen  in  a  saloon  adjoining  the  hall  of 


A  Proposition  to  Eecede  from  Rome.  379 

debates,  and  of  hearing  from  them  the  warmest  expressions  of 
American  feelinic  and  of  a  o-enerous  interest  in  the  affairs  of  the 
United  States. 

"Antonio  Maria  de  Moiira  was  considered  the  special  representa- 
tive of  the  ecclesiastical  interests  in  this  legislature.  This  indi- 
vidual had  gained  a  great  degree  of  notoriety  during  a  few  years 
previous.  He  had  been  nominated  by  the  Imperial  Government  to 
till  the  vacant  bishopric  of  Eio  de  Janeiro.  The  Pope  of  Eome 
was,  for  some  reasons,  displeased  with  the  nomination,  and  accord- 
ingly refused  to  consecrate  him.  This  circumstance  gave  occasion 
for  long  diplomatic  negotiations,  and  for  a  time  threatened  to  in- 
terrupt friendly  relations  between  Brazil  and  the  Holy  See.  For 
several  years  questions  relating  to  this  subject  were  frequently 
and  freely  discussed  before  the  National  Assembly.  During  these 
debates  expressions  were  often  used  not  the  most  complimentary  to 
His  Holiness,  and  facts  of  a  startling  character  were  brought  to 
view.  For  example,  a  reverend  padre,  in  speaking  on  the  subject, 
alluded  to  a  canonical  objection  to  this  candidate,  which,  he  said,  was 
very  generally  known, — viz. : 'the  illegitimacy  of  his  birth:  'that, 
however,  was  a  trifling  matter,  it  having  been  dispensed  with  in 
the  case  of  two  of  the  actual  bishops  of  the  Empire.  But  this 
gentleman  had  signed  a  report  declaring  against  the  forced  celibacy 
of  the  clergy,  and,  when  interrogated  by  His  Holiness  on  the 
subject,  had  refused  to  give  explanations.'* 

"  The  longer  this  subject  was  discussed,  the  wider  the  difference 
seemed  to  grow.  The  Pope  was  unwilling  to  recede  from  his 
position,  and  the  Brazilians  resolved  not  to  brook  dictation  fiom 
the  Pope. 

''The  proposition  to  make  the  Brazilian  church  independent  of 
His  Holiness  was  more  than  once  started,  and  it  was  finding 
increased  favor  with  the  people.  But  the  question  was  regarded 
solely  in  its  political  bearings.  Consequently,  it  became  an  object 
for  the  Government  to  settle  it  in  the  easiest  way  practicable.  On 
the  accession  of  a  new  ministry,  measures  were  adopted  to  satisfy 
Moura  and  to  induce  him  to  step  out  of  the  way.     Accordingly, 


*  See  Jornal  do  Commercio,  Juue  30,  1839. 


380  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

he  was  at  length  persuaded  to  waive  his  claim,  and  to  resign  ai. 
office  which  he  could  not  be  permitted  to  fill  peaceably.  The  ques- 
tion was  then  easily  disposed  of.  _The  Government  made  another 
nomination,  which  the  Pope  approved, — at  the  same  time  compli- 
menting the  rejected  candidate  with  the  title  and  dignities  of 
bishoji  in  partibus  infidelium.  At  the  time  I  met  him.  Padre  Moura 
did  not  appear  to  be  over  thirty-five  years  of  age.  His  demeanor 
was  aff'able  and  his  conversation  iutei"esting.  He  was  understood 
to  be  the  confidential  adviser  and  assistant  of  the  old  Bishoj)  of  S. 
Paulo.  He  had  been  for  a  series  of  years  engaged  in  political 
life,  and  will  probably  continue  in  similar  engagements,  since  they 
will  be  in  no  wise  inconsistent  with  the  obligations  of  his  office  of 
bishop  in  partibus. 

"  I  had  the  honor  of  more  than  one  interview  with  the  ex-Regent 
Feijo.  The  first  was  in  company  with  an  intimate  friend  of  his,  in 
the  lower  room  of  a  large  house,  where  he  was  staying  as  a  guest, 
in  the  city  of  S.  Paulo.  There  were  no  ceremonies.  His  reverence 
appeared  to  have  been  lying  down  in  an  adjoining  alcove,  and  had 
hastily  risen.  His  di'ess  was  not  clerical.  In  fact,  his  garments 
were  composed  of  light  striped  cotton,  and  appeared  b}"  no  means 
new;  while  his  beai^d  was  apparently  quite  too  long  for  comfort  in 
so  warm  a  day.  He  was  short  and  corpulent,  about  sixty  j^ears  of 
age,  but  of  a  robust  and  healthful  appearance.  His  countenance 
and  cranium  bore  an  intellectual  stamp  and  conveyed  a  benevolent 
expression,  although  there  might  have  been  something  peculiar  in 
the  look  of  his  eyes,  which  gave  rise  to  a  remark  made  to  me  before 
I  saw  him,  that  he  had  'the  physiognomy  of  a  cat.'  His  conver- 
sation was  free  and  very  interesting.  My  friend  mentioned  to 
him  that  I  had  made  several  inquiries  respecting  the  customs  of  the 
clergy  and  the  state  of  education  and  religion  in  the  country.  He 
proceeded  to  comment  upon  these  several  topics,  and  expressed  no 
little  dissatisfaction  with  the  actual  state  of  things,  particularly 
among  the  clergy.  He  said  'there  was  scarcely  a  priest  in  the 
whole  province  that  did  his  duty  as  the  Church  pi-escribed  it,  and 
especially  with  reference  to  catechizing  children  on  the  Lord's 
day.' 

"He  was  on  the  eve  of  a  journey  to  Itu  and  Campinas,  and,  being 
asked  when  he  would  set  out,  replied,  Dizem  no  Domingo,  ('Sunday 


Proposition  to  Abolish  Clerical  Celibacy.         381 

is  talked  of;')  thus  indicating  that  even  he  himself  had  not  too  high 
a  respect  for  the  institution  of  the  Sabbath-day.  On  another  oc- 
casion I  called  on  him  at  his  own  house  in  Eio  de  Janeiro,  while 
he  was  in  attendance  on  the  Senate,  of  which  he  was  a  member, 
and  for  a  long  time  president.  It  was  in  the  morning,  and  I  found 
him  alone  in  his  parlor,  occupied  with  his  brevnary;  while  at  the 
same  time  there  lay  on  the  table  by  which  he  was  sitting  afaca  de 
ponta,  or  pointed  knife,  of  the  species  already  described,  enclosed 
in  a  silver  sheath.  I  presented  him  with  copies  of  some  tracts  that 
we  had  just  j)ublished  in  the  Portuguese  language  for  circulation  in 
the  country.  He  received  them  courteously,  and  again  entered 
into  conversation  I'especting  various  plans  for  the  religious  amelio- 
ration of  Brazil.  He,  however,  seemed  to  have  little  faith,  and  less 
spirit,  for  making  further  exertions,  having  been  repeatedly  baffled 
in  his  cherished  projects  for  improvement.  So  little  encourage- 
ment, indeed,  had  he  met  with  from  his  brethren  .the  clergy,  that 
he  was  inclined  to  compare  some  of  them  to  the  dog  in  the  manger, 
since  they  would  neither  do  good  themselves,  nor  allow  others  to 
do  it. 

''  Feijo  is  a  remarkable  man.  Like  many  others  among  the  Bra- 
zilian clergj',  he  entered  upon  a  jjolitical  career  in  early  life,  and 
laid  aside  the  practical  duties  of  the  priesthood.  His  abandon- 
ment of  the  Cortes  of  Portugal,  to  which  he  had  been  elected  in 
the  reign  of  Dom  John  YI.,  has  already  been  mentioned. 

"After  the  establishment  of  the  independent  Government  of 
Brazil,  he  became  a  prominent  member  of  the  House  of  Deputies. 
During  a  debate  in  that  body  he  listened  to  what  seems  at  first  to 
have  struck  him  as  a  veiy  strange  proposition, — viz.:  'that  the 
clergy  of  Brazil  were  not  bound  by  the  law  of  celibacy.'  Coming, 
however,  as  the  statement  did,  from  a  gentleman  of  great  learning 
and  probity,  it  secured  his  candid  attention.  Subsequent  reflection, 
while  meditating  upon  the  means  of  reforming  the  clerg}-,  and 
examining  the  annals  of  Christianity,  convinced  him  not  only  that 
the  proposition  was  correct,  but  also  that  the  most  fruitful  source 
of  all  the  evils  that  affected  this  important  class  of  men  was  a 
forced  celibacy.  Whereupon,  as  a  member  of  the  Committee  on 
Ecclesiastical  Affairs,  he  offered  to  the  House  his  views  on  the  sub- 
ject in  the  form  of  a  minority  report. 


382  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

"In  this  report  be  proposed,  'that  since  celibacy  was  neither  en- 
joined upon  the  clergy  by  divine  law  nor  apostolical  institutions, 
but,  on  the  contrary,  was  the  source  of  immorality  among  them; 
therefore,  the  Assembly  should  revoke  the  laws  that  constrained 
it,  and  notify  the  Pope  of  Eome  of  the  necessity  of  revoking  the 
ecclesiastical  j)enalties  against  clerical  matrimony;  and,  in  case 
these  were  not  revoked  within  a  given  time,  that  they  should  be 
nullified.' 

"As  a  matter  of  course,  such  a  report,  coming  from  an  ecclesias- 
tic of  high  standing,  excited  a  great  deal  of  attention.  To  the 
surprise  of  many,  it  was  received  with  great  favor  by  both  priests 
and  peojDle.  This  circumstance,  together  with  his  o-wn  convictions 
of  duty,  prompted  the  author  to  develop  his  opinions  at  length' 
and  in  a  systematical  treatise.  Thus  originated  his  celebrated  work 
on  Clerical  Celibacy.  From  the  remarks  of  a  competent  critic  on 
that  work,  we  select  the  following: — 'It  is  really  a  novelty  in  the 
literary  world.  We  can,  in  truth,  say  no  less  than  this : — that  the 
book  contains  unquestionably  the  best  argument  ever  advanced,  in 
any  Papal  or  Protestant  country,  against  the  constrained  celibacy 
of  priests  and  nuns.  It  sets  forth  all  that  a  Protestant  can  say,  and 
what  a  Eoman  Catholic  priest,  in  spite  of  every  early  prejudice,  is 
constrained  to  say,  against  a  cruel  and  unnatural  law,  enacted 
against  the  immovable  law  of  the  almighty  Ci'cator.' 

"The  author  is  master  in  ancient  as  well  as  in  modern  Catholic 
lore, — in  canon  law,  and  in  the  writings  of  the  fathers;  and  we 
should  be  no  less  amazed  than  instructed  by  seeing  any  one  of  his 
brother-prelates  in  America  or  in  Europe  come  out  with  any  thing 
like  a  rational  answer  to  'Feijo's  Demonstration  of  the  Neces- 
sity OF  Abolishing  Clerical  Celibacy.' 

"Notwithstanding  the  violent  attacks  made  upon  him  in  con- 
nection with  this  startling  attempt  at  innovation,  yet  he  was  sub- 
sequently elevated  to  the  highest  offices  in  the  gift  of  the  nation. 
He  was,  successively,  appointed  Minister  of  State,  Eegent  of  the 
Empire,  and  Senator  for  life. 

"  He  was,  moreover,  elected  by  the  Imperial  Government  as 
Bishop  of  Mariana,  a  diocese  which  included  the  rich  and  important 
province  of  Minas-Geraes.  He,  however,  did  not  see  fit  to  accept 
this  dignity,  but,  on  resigning  his  Eegency,  returned  to  his  planta- 


The  Death  of  Distinguished  Men.  383 

tion,  a  few  miles  from  the  city  of  S.  Paulo,  where  he  resided  during 
my  visit  to  that  part  of  Brazil. 

"After  that  period  his  health  declined,  and  a  pension  of  four 
thousand  milreis  per  annum  was  conceded  to  him,  in  consideration 
of  his  distinguished  services  in  the  past.     In  1843  he  died." 

Since  the  above  was  written  by  my  co-laborer  in  this  work,  many 
of  the  leading  men  whom  he  met  at  San  Paulo  have  gone  to  their 
rest.  Antonio  Carlos,  Martin  Francisco  de  Andrada,  and  Alvares 
Machado,  are  no  more.  The  constitutional  Empire  which,  with 
self-sacrificing  toil,  they  aided  in  erecting,  and  for  which  they  suf- 
fered in  the  crucible  of  political  persecution,  exists  on  a  firm  foun- 
dation, and  their  labors  are  not  forgotten,  though  as  yet  no  lofty 
monument  rears  its  form  to  tell  of  their  true  patriotism. 

Antonio  Carlos  de  Andrada  expired  on  the  5th  of  December, 
1845,  and  from  the  Necrologia  in  the  Annuario  do  Brazil  for  1846  I 
extract  the  following  testimonial  to  his  talent,  worth,  and  states- 
manship. It  may  be  remarked  that,  if  every  foreigner  who  investi- 
gates the  character  of  the  deceased  finds  so  much  to  command 
his  admiration,  we  should  pardon  the  high  strain  of  eulogium  pro- 
nounced by  his  countrymen  upon  one  who,  for  so  vcisnij  years,  nobly 
filled  the  first  places  in  the  gift  of  the  monarch  and  the  people. 

''The  Assemblea  Gcral  of  1844  being  dissolved,  Antonio  Carlos  de 
Andrada  was,  in  1845,  newly  elected  Deputy  for  his  native  province 
of  San  Paulo.  But  he  had  scarcely  been  informed  of  his  election 
by  the  Paulistas,  when  he  heard  that  he  had  been  chosen  Senator 
for  Pern ambuco,  after  having  also  received  the  poj)ular  votes  of  the 
provinces  of  Para,  Minas,  Ceara,  and  Eio  de  Janeiro.  He  took  his 
seat  thus  late  in  life  in  the  Senate-chamber, — a  tardy  recompense 
for  his  great  merit. 

"In  literature,  in  Parliament,  and  in  the  whole  Empire,  his  death 
left  a  great  void,  which  will  long  be  felt  by  all  his  compatriots. 

"With  no  other  ambition  save  that  of  serving  his  country, — the 
sole  glor}^  desired  by  his  generous  heart, — he  neither  desired  nor 
sought  for  honors. 

"The  Councillor  Carlos  Antonio  de  Andrada  was  of  medium 
height  and  of  a  robust  constitution :  every  feature  of  his  face  ex- 
pressed genius,  feeling,  and  energy  of  mind.  Of  easj^  and  graceful 
manners,  mild    and  jovial  in  familiar  conversation,  he  rendered 


384  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

himself  agreeable  to  every  one  who  api^roached  him.  Severe  for 
himself,  be  was  indulgent  to  others,  and  ready  to  pardon  an  offence 
or  an  injustice  done  to  him.  He  was  a  devoted  friend,  and  a  gene- 
rous adversary  to  bis  competitors  in  public  life:  be  never  employed 
his  power  to  injure  others,  but  always  to  protect  the  Aveak.  An 
excellent  fatbei-,  a  loving  husband,  the  best  of  brothers, — there  was 
not  a  single  domestic  virtue  which  was  not  found  in  Antonio 
Carlos!" 

What  matters  it  if  to  such  a  man  no  monumental  stone  be 
erected  ? — 

"  The  fame  is  lost  -which  it  imparts : 
Who  for  his  dust  a  tear  would  claim 
Must  write  his  name  on  living  hearts." 

The  conclusion  of  the  eulogy  to  the  deceased  statesman  is  the 
highest  encomium  that  could  be  pronounced  upon  a  public  man  in  a 
government  where,  too  often,  those  in  power  have  not  scrupled  to 
enrich  themselves  at  the  expense  of  the  State. 

There  is  the  noblest  and  most  eloquent  praise  in  the  simple  fact 
and  statement, — viz.:  "Such  was  the  Councillor  Antonio  Carlos 
de  Andrada:  he  lived  and  died  poor!" 

The  following  details  of  the  missionary  efforts  of  ni}'-  colleague 
and  predecessor  will  be  found,  I  doubt  not,  deeply  interesting: — 

"  Allhough  two  hundred  years  had  elapsed  since  the  discovery 
and  first  settlement  of  the  province  of  San  Paulo,  it  is  not  known 
that  a  Protestant  minister  of  the  gospel  had  ever  visited  it  before. 
Although  colonized  with  the  ostensible  purpose  of  converting  the 
natives,  and  subsequently  inhabited  by  scores  of  monks  and  jjriests, 
there  is  no  j^robability  that  ever  before  a  j)erson  had  entered  its 
domains,  carrying  copies  of  the  word  of  life  in  the  vernacular 
tongue,  with  the  express  intent  of  putting  them  in  the  hands  of  the 
people. 

"It  is  necessary  to  remind  the  reader,  that,  throughout  the  entire 
continent  to  which  i*efcrence  is  now  made,  public  assemblies  for  the 
puri)ose  of  addresses  and  instruction  are  wholly  unknown.  The 
people  often  assemble  at  mass  and  at  religious  festivals,  and  nearly 
as  often  at  the  theatre;  but  in  neither  place  do  they  hear  principles 
discussed  or  truth  developed.  The  sermons  in  the  former  case  are 
seldom  much  more  than  eulogiums  on  the  virtues  of  a  saint,  with 


Hospitalities  of  a  Padke.  385 

exhortations  to  follow  his  or  her  example.  Indeed,  the  whole  sys- 
tem of  means  by  which,  in  Protestant  countries,  access  is  had  to 
the  public  mind,  is  unpractised  and  unknown.  The  stranger,  there- 
fore, and  especially  the  supposed  heretic,  who  would  labor  for  the 
promotion  of  true  religion,  must  expect  to  avail  himself  of  provi- 
dential openings  rather  than  to  rely  on  previously-concerted  plans. 
The  missionary,  in  such  cii'cumstances,  learns  a  lesson  of  great 
practical  importance  to  himself, — to  wit,  that  he  should  be  grateful 
for  any  occasion,  however  small,  of  attempting  to  do  good  in  the 
name  of  his  Master.  The  romantic  notions  which  some  entertain 
of  a  mission-field  may  become  chastened  and  humbled  by  contact 
with  the  cold  reality  of  facts;  but  the  Christian  heart  will  not  be 
rendered  harder,  nor  genuine  faith  less  susceptible  of  an  entire 
reliance  on  God. 

"The  unexpected  friendship  and  aid  of  mine  aged  host  at  San 
Bernardo,  already  mentioned,  was  not  a  circumstance  to  be  lightly 
esteemed.  Scarcely  less  expected  was  the  provision  made  for  me, 
at  the  city  of  S.  Paulo,  of  letters  of  introduction  to  gentlemen  of 
the  first  respectability  in  the  various  places  of  the  interior  which  I 
wished  to  visit.  At  one  of  those  places,  the  individual  to  whom  I 
was  thus  addressed,  and  by  whom  I  was  entertained,  was  a  Eoman 
Catholic  priest;  and  it  affords  me  unfeigned  satisfaction  to  say, 
that  the  hospitality  which  I  received  under  his  roof  was  just  what 
the  stranger  in  a  strange  land  would  desire. 

""When  on  reaching  the  town  where  he  lived  I  first  called  at  his 
house,  the  padre  had  been  absent  about  two  weeks,  but  was  then 
hourly  expected  to  return.  His  nephew,  a  young  gentleman  in 
charge  of  the  premises,  insisted  on  my  remaining,  and  directed  my 
guide  to  a  pasture  for  his  mules.  In  a  country  where  riding  upon 
the  saddle  is  almost  the  only  way  of  travelling,  it  has  become  an 
act  of  politeness  to  invite  the  traveller,  on  his  fii-st  arrival,  to  rest 
upon  a  bed  or  a  sofa.  This  kindness,  having  been  accepted  in  the 
present  instance,  was  in  due  time  followed  by  a  warm  bath,  and 
afterward  by  an  excellent  but  a  solitary  dinner.  Before  my  repast 
was  ended,  a  party  of  horsemen  passed  by  the  window,  among 
whom  was  the  padre  for  whom  I  was  waiting.  After  reading  the 
letter  which  I  brought,  he  entered  the  room  and  bade  me  a  cordial 
welcome.     He  had  arrived  in  company  with  the  ex-Regent  Feijo, 

25 


386  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

with  whom  I  had  previously  enjoyed  an  interview  at  the  city  of  S. 
Paulo,  and  from  whom  ho  had  received  notices  of  me,  as  inquiring 
into  the  religious  state  of  the  countrj^.  My  way  was  thus  made  easy 
to  introduce  the  special  topic  of  my  mission.  On  showing  me  his 
library, — a  very  respectable  collection  of  books, — he  distinguished, 
as  his  favorite  work,  Calmet's  Bible,  in  French,  in  twenty-six 
volumes.  He  had  no  Bible  or  Testament  in  Portuguese.  I  told 
him  I  had  heard  that  an  edition  was  about  to  be  published  at  Eio, 
with  notes  and  comments,  under  the  patronage  and  sanction  of  the 
Archbishop.  This  project  had  been  set  on  foot  in  order  to  counter- 
act the  circulation  of  the  edition*  of  the  Bible-societies,  but  was 
never  carried  into  effect.  He  knew  nothing  of  it.  He  had  heard, 
however,  that  Bibles  in  the  vulgar  tongue  had  been  sent  to  Eio  de 
Janeiro,  as  to  other  parts  of  the  world,  which  could  be  procured 
gratis,  or  for  a  trifling  consideration.  Judge  of  the  happy  surprise 
with  which  I  heard  from  his  lips  that  some  of  these  Bibles  had 
already  appeared  in  this  neighborhood,  three  hundred  miles  distant 
from  our  depository  at  Eio.  His  first  remark  was,  that  he  did  not 
know  how  much  good  would  come  from  their  perusal,  on  account 
of  the  bad  example  of  their  bishops  and  priests.  I  informed  him 
frankl}^  that  I  was  one  of  the  persons  engaged  in  distributing  these 
Bibles,  and  endeavored  to  explain  the  motives  of  our  enterjirise, 
which  he  seemed  to  appreciate. 

*'He  said  Catholicism  was  nearly  abandoned  here  and  all  the 
world  over.  I  assured  him  that  I  saw  abundant  proofs  of  its 
existence  and  influence;  but  he  seemed  to  consider  these  'the 
form  without  the  power.'  Our  convei-sation  was  here  interrupted; 
but,  having  an  oi:)portunity  to  renew  it  in  the  evening,  I  remarked 
that,  knowing  me  to  be  a  minister  of  religion,  he  had  reason  to 
suppose  I  would  have  more  pleasure  in  conversing  on  that  subject 
than  upon  any  other. 

"I  then  told  him  I  did  not  comprehend  what  he  meant  by  saying 
that  Catholicism  was  nearly  abandoned.  He  proceeded  to  explain 
that  there  was  scai'cely  an}-  thing  of  the  spirit  of  religion  among 
either  priests  or  people.  He,  being  only  a  diacono,  had  the  pi'ivilege 
of  criticizing  others.  He  was  strong  in  the  opinion  that  the  laws 
enjoining  clerical  celibacy  should  be  abolished,  since  the  clergy 
were  almost  all  de  facto  much  worse  than  married,  to  the  infinite 


An  Interesting  Conversation.  387 

ecandal  of  religion ;  that  such  was  their  ignorance  that  many 
of  them  ought  to  sit  at  the  feet  of  their  own  people  to  be  in- 
structed in  the  common  doctrines  of  Christianity;  that  the  spirit 
of  infidelity  had  been  of  late  rapidly  spreading,  and  infecting  the 
young,  to  the  destruction  of  that  external  respect  for  religion  and 
the  fear  of  God  which  used  to  be  hereditary.  Infidel  books  were 
common,  especially  Yolney's  'Euins.'  I  asked  whether  things  were 
growing  better  or  worse.  '  Worse/  he  replied ;  '  worse  continually  I' 
'  What  means  are  taken  to  render  them  better?'  'jSTone  !  We  are 
waiting  the  interference  of  Pi'ovidence.'  I  told  him  there  were 
many  pious  persons  who  would  gladly  come  to  their  aid  if  it  were 
certain  they  would  be  permitted  to  do  the  work  of  the  Lord.  He 
thought  they  would  be  well  received  if  they  brought  the  truth; 
meaning,  probably,  if  they  were  Eoman  Catholics. 

"I  asked  him  what  report  I  should  give  to  the  religious  world 
respecting  Bi-azil.  'Say  that  we  arc  in  darkness,  behind  the  age, 
and  almost  abandoned.'  'But  -that  you  wish  for  light  ?'  'That  we 
wish  for  nothing.     We  are  hoping  in  God,  the  Father  of  lights.' 

"I  proceeded  to  ask  him  what  was  better  calculated  to  counter- 
act the  influence  of  those  infidel  and  demoralizing  works  he  had 
referred  to  than  the  word  of  God.  'Nothing,'  was  the  reply. 
'How  much  good,  then,  is  it  possible  you  youi'self  might  do,  both 
to  your  country  and  to  immortal  souls,  by  devoting  yourself  to  the 
true  work  of  an  evangelist !'  He  assented,  and  hoped  that  some 
day  he  should  be  engaged  in  it. 

"I  had  before  placed  in. his  hands  two  or  three  copies  of  the  New 
Testament,  to  be  given  to  persons  who  would  receive  j^rofit  from 
them,  and  which  he  had  received  with  the  greatest  satisfaction. 
I  now  told  him  that  whenever  he  was  disposed  to  enter  upon  the 
work  of  distributing  the  Scriptures  we  could  forward  them  to  him 
in  any  quantity  needed.  He  assured  me  that  he  would  at  any 
time  be  happy  to  take  such  a  charge  upon  himself;  that  when  the 
books  were  received  he  would  circulate  them  throughout  all  the 
neighboring  country,  and  write  an  account  of  the  manner  of  their 
disposal.  We  accordingly  closed  an  arrangement,  which  subse- 
quently proved  highly  efficient  and  interesting.  When  I  showed 
him  some  tracts  in  Portuguese,  he  requested  that  a  quantity  of 
them  should  accompany  the  remission  of  Bibles.     On  my  asking 


388  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

how  the  ex-Regent  and  others  like  him  would  regard  the  circula- 
tion of  the  Scriptures  among  the  people,  he  said  they  would  rejoice 
in  it,  and  that  the  propriety  of  the  enterprise  would  scarcely  admit 
of  discussion.  'Then/  said  I,  'when  we  are  engaged  in  this  work 
we  can  have  the  satisfaction  to  know  that  we  are  doing  what  the 
better  part  of  3'our  own  clergy  approve.'  'Certainly,'  he  replied: 
'you  are  doing  what  we  ought  to  be  doing  ourselves.' 

"Seldom  have  I  spent  a  night  more  happily  than  the  one  which 
followed,  although  sleep  was  disposed  to  flee  from  my  eyelids.  I 
was  overwhelmed  with  a  sense  of  the  goodness  and  providence  of 
God,  in  thus  directing  my  way  to  the  very  person  out  of  hundreds 
best  qualified,  both  in  circumstances  and  disposition,  to  aid  in  pro- 
moting our  great  work.  This  fact  was  illustrated  in  the  circum- 
stance that,  although  I  had  a  most  cordial  letter  of  introduction  to 
the  vigario  of  the  same  village,  which  I  left  at  his  house,  I  did  not 
see  him  at  all,  he  happening  to  be  out  when  I  called.  To  use  the 
expression  of  a  gentleman  acquainted  with  the  circumstances,  'he 
Lid  himself,'  as  though  fearing  the  consequences  of  an  interview, 
and,  by  not  showing  at  least  the  customary  civilities  to  a  stranger, 
gi'eatly  offended  the  gentleman  who  had  given  me  the  letter.  The 
padre  whose  kindness  I  experienced  had  jjaused  in  his  clerical 
course  some  years  before,  and  was  engaged  in  the  legal  profession, 
although  he  retained  his  title  and  character  as  a  priest.  In  corre- 
spondence with  this  circumstance,  there  is  scarcely  any  department 
of  civil  or  political  life  in  which  priests  are  not  often  found.  After 
the  second  night  I  was  under  the  necessity  of  taking  leave  of  him 
in  order  to  pursue  my  journey. 

"At  another  village,  a  young  gentleman  who  had  been  educated 
in  Germany  was  often  in  my  room,  and  rendered  himself  very 
agreeable  by  his  frank  and  intelligent  conversation.  He  repre- 
sented this  to  be  one  of  the  most  religious  places  in  the  country, 
having  a  large  number  of  churches  and  priests  in  proportion  to 
the  population.  In  one  church  particularly  the  priests  w^ere  un- 
usually strict,  and,  in  the  judgment  of  my  informant,  quite  fana- 
tical. They  always  wore  their  distinguishing  habit,  Avere  correct 
in  their  moral  deportment,  required  j^ersons  belonging  to  their 
circle  to  commune  very  often,  and,  moreover,  discountenanced 
theatres.     This  latter  circumstance  was  unusual ;    for,  in  addition 


How  Suicide  is  Restrained.  389 

to  the  cleigy  being  often  present  at  such  amusements,  there  was 
even  in  that  place  the  instance  of  a  theatre  attached  to  a  church. 

''I  introduced  to  this  young  gentleman  the  subject  of  circulating 
the  Bible.  He  at  once  acknowledged  the  importance  of  the  enter- 
prise, and  expressed  great  desires  that  it  should  go  forward;  saying 
that  the  Brazilians,  once  understanding  the  objects,  of  the  friends 
of  the  Bible,  could  not  but  appreciate  them  in  the  most  grateful 
manner.  He  proposed  to  converse  with  his  friends,  to  see  what 
could  be  done  toward  distributing  copies  among  them.  I  put  two 
Testaments  in  his  hands  as  specimens.  The  next  morning  he  told 
me  that,  having  exhibited  them  the  evening  previous  to  a  company 
of  young  persons,  there  had  arisen  a  universal  demand  for  them, 
and  many  became  highly  urgent  not  to  be  overlooked  in  the  distri- 
bution. He  consequently  repeated  his  assurance  that  the  sacred 
books  would  be  received  with  universal  delight,  and  requested  a 
number  of  copies  to  be  sent  to  his  address.  I  was  told  that  here 
also  many  of  the  rising  generation  had  very  little  respect  for  reli- 
gion, through  the  influence  of  infidel  writings  and  of  other  causes. 
The  apology  for  almost  any  license  was,  'I  am  a  bad  Catholic.' 
The  people  generally  assented  to  the  dogmas  of  the  Church,  but 
seldom  complied  with  its  requirements,  excei:)t  when  obliged  to  do 
so  by  their  parents  or  prompted  by  the  immediate  fear  of  death. 
The  rules  requiring  abstinence  from  meats  on  Wednesdays  and 
Fridays,  also  during  Lent,  had  been  abolished  by  a  dispensation 
from  the  diocesan  bishop  for  the  last  six  years,  and  the  Provincial 
Assembly  had  just  asked  a  repetition  of  the  same  favor.  The  deci- 
sion of  the  bishop  had  not  then  transjMred,  but  many  of  the  people 
were  expressing  a  disposition  to  live  as  they  should  list,  be  it 
either  way. 

"Just  previous  to  my  visit  to  this  place,  a  young  man  of  a  re- 
spectable family,  having  sunk  his  fortune  in  an  attempted  specula- 
tion on  a  newly-arrived  cargo  of  African  slaves,  had  committed 
suicide.  It  was  said  to  be  the  first  instance  of  that  crime  ever 
known  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  result  was  an  unusual  excitement 
among  all  classes.  I  may  here  observe,  that  suicide  is  exceedingly 
rare  throughout  the  whole  of  Brazil;  and  there  can  be  but  little 
question  that  the  rules  of  the  Church,  depriving  its  victim  of  Chris- 
tian burial,  have  exerted  a  good  influence  in  investing  the  subject 


390  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

with  a  suitable  horror  and  detestation.  Would  to  Heaven  a  similar 
influence  had  Ijcen  exerted  against  other  sins  equally  damning  but 
more  insidious  !  The  very  abomination  of  moral  desolation  could 
exist  in  the  same  community  almost  unrebuked. 

"At  a  third  village  I  was  entertained  by  a  merchant  of  truly 
liberal  ideas  and  of  unbounded  hospitality.  He  also  offered  to  co- 
operate with  me  in  the  circulation  of  the  sacred  volumes,  not  only 
in  his  own  town,  but  also  in  the  regions  beyond. 

"Having  accomplished  a  journey  of  about  two  hundred  miles 
under  very  favorable  circumstances,  I  again  reached  the  city  of 
S.  Paulo.  1  had  not  stayed  so  long  in  various  places  as  I  should 
have  been  interested  and  happy  to  do,  in  compliance  with  urgent 
invitations.  I  had,  however,  important  reasons  for  not  indulging 
my  pleasure  in  this  respect.  My  mind  had  dwelt  intensely  upon 
the  state  of  the  country,  as  shown  by  facts  communicated  to  me 
from  various  and  unexceptionable  sources.  I  had  anxiously  in- 
quired how  something  for  its  good  might  be  accomplished ;  whether 
there  was  any  possibility  of  exceeding  the  slow  and  circumscribed 
limits  of  private  personal  communication  of  the  truth.  Hope,  in 
answer,  had  sprung  up  in  my  mind,  and  was  beginning  to  be 
cherished  with  fond  expectation. 

•  "From  the  idea  of  distributing  a  couple  of  dozens  of  Testaments 
in  several  schools  of  the  city,  I  was  led  to  think  of  the  practica- 
bility of  introducing  the  same  as  reading-books  in  the  schools 
of  the  whole  province.  This  seemed  to  be  more  desirable  from  the 
fact,  universally  affirmed,  that  there  then  prevailed  an  almost  entire 
destitution  of  any  books  for  such  use  in  the  schools.  The  Mont- 
pellier  Catechism  was  more  used  for  this  purpose  than  any  other 
book;  but  it  had  little  efficacy  in  fixing  religious  principles  ujjon  a 
proper  basis,  to  resist  the  undermining  process  of  infidelity. 

"Encouraged  by  the  uniform  thankfulness  of  those  individuals  to 
whom  I  presented  copies,  and  also  by  the  judgment  of  all  to  whom 
I  had  thought  proper  to  suggest  the  idea,  I  had  finally  resolved  to 
offer  to  the  Government,  in  some  approved  form,  a  donation  of 
Testaments  corresponding  in  ma-gnitude  to  the  wants  of  the  pro- 
vince. Fortunately  I  had,  in  the  secretary  and  senior  professor 
of  the  univei'sity,  a  friend  fully  competent  to  counsel  and  aid  in  the 
prosecution  of  this  enterprise.    I  laid  the  whole  subject  before  him. 


Proposition  to  the  Provincial  Assembly.  391 

He  informed  me  that  the  proper  method  of  securing  the  object 
would  be  by  means  of  an  order  from  the  Provincial  Assembly, 
(if  that  body  should  see  fit  to  pass  one,)  directing  the  teachers 
of  schools  to  receive  said  books  for  use. 

"Early  next  morning  he  called  with  me  to  propose  the  subject 
to  various  prominent  members  of  the  Legislative  Assembly.  \Ye 
visited  gentlemen  belonging  to  both  political  parties  :  two  priests, 
one  a  doctor  in  medicine  and  the  other  a  professor  in  the  Academy 
of  Laws;  the  Bishop-elect  of  Eio  de  Janeiro,  who  was  confidential 
adviser  of  the  old  Bishop  of  S.  Paulo, — the  latter  also  belonging  to 
the  Assembly ;  and  at  length  the  Andradas.  Each  of  these  gentle- 
men entertained  the  proposition  in  the  most  respectful  manner, 
and  expressed  the  opinion  that  it  could  not  fail  to  be  well  received 
by  the  Assembly.  The  bishop,  who  was  chairman  of  one  of  the 
committees  to  which  it  would  naturally  be  referred,  said  he  would 
spare  no  effort  on  his  part  to  carry  so  laudable  a  design  into  effect. 
He,  together  with  one  of  the  padres  referred  to,  had  purchased 
copies  of  the  Bible,  at  the  depository  in  Eio,  for  their  own  use, 
and  highly  approved  of  the  edition  we  circulated. 

"Our  visit  to  the  Andradas  was  peculiarly  interesting.  These 
venerable  men,  both  crowned  with  hoary  haii'S  and  almost  worn 
out  in  the  service  of  their  country,  received  me  with  gratifying 
expressions  of  regard  toward  the  United  States,  and  assurances 
of  entire  reciprocity  of  feeling  toward  Christians  who  might  not 
be  of  the  Eonian  Church.  They  were  acquainted  with,  and  appre- 
ciated the  efforts  of,  the  Bible  Societies :  they,  moreover,  highly 
approved  of  the  universal  use  of  the  Scriptures,  especially  of  the 
New  Testament.  They  pronounced  the  offer  I  was  about  to  make 
to  be  not  only  unexceptionable,  but  truly  generous,  and  said  that 
nothing  in  their  power  should  be  wanting  to  carry  it  into  full 
effect.  Indeed,  Martin  Francisco,  the  president  of  the  Assembly, 
on  parting,  said  that  it  gave  him  hapj^iness  to  reflect  that  their 
province  might  be  the  first  to  set  the  example  of  introducing  the 
word  of  God  to  its  public  schools.  Senhor  Antonio  Carlos,  at  the 
same  time,  received  some  copies  of  the  Testament  as  specimens  of 
the  translation,  Avhich,  with  the  following  document,  as  chairman 
of  the  Committee  on  Public  Instruction,  he  presented  in  course  of 
the  session  for  that  day  : — 


392  ±5razil  and  the  Brazilians. 

'^'Proposition  to  the  Honorable  Legislature,  the  Provincial  Assembly 
of  the  Imperial  Province  of  S.  Paulo. 

"  *  "Whereas,  having  visited  this  province  as  a  stranger,  and  having 
received  high  satisfaction,  not  only  in  the  observation  of  those  natural 
advantages  of  climate,  soil,  and  productions  with  which  a  benignant 
Providence  has  so  eminently  distinguished  it,  but  also  in  the  gene- 
rous hospitality  and  esteemed  acquaintance  of  various  citizens;  and, 

"  'Whereas,  in  making  some  inquiries  upon  the  subject  of  educa- 
tion, having  been  repeatedly  informed  of  a  great  want  of  reading- 
books  in  the  primary  schools,  especially  in  the  interior;  and, 

'''Whereas,  having  relations  with  the  American  Bible  Society, 
located  in  New  York,  the  fundamental  object  of  which  is  to  distri- 
bute the  Word  of  God,  without  note  or  comment,  in  different  parts 
of  the  world ;  and,  whereas  the  New  Testament  of  our  Lord  and 
Saviour  Jesus  Christ  is  a  choice  specimen  of  style,  as  well  on  sub- 
jects historical  as  moral  and  religious,  in  addition  to  embodying 
the  jiure  and  sacred  truths  of  our  holy  Christianity,  the  knowledge 
of  which  is  of  so  high  importance  to  every  individual,  both  as  a 
human  being  and  as  a  member  of  society ;  and, 

"  'Whereas,  having  the  most  unlimited  confidence  in  the  philan- 
thropic benevolence  of  said  Society,  and  in  its  willingness  to  co- 
operate for  the  good  of  this  country,  in  common  with  all  others, 
and  especially  in  view  of  the  happy  relations  existing  between  two 
prominent  nations  of  the  New  World  :  therefore  I  propose  to 
guarantee,  on  the  part  of  the  said  American  Bible  Society,  the  free 
donation  of  copies  of  the  New  Testament,  translated  into  Portu- 
guese by  the  Padre  Antonio  Pereira  de  Figueiredo,  in  sufficient 
number  to  furnish  every  primary  school  in  the  province  with  a 
library  of  one  dozen, — on  the  simple  condition  that  said  copies  shall 
be  received  as  delivered  at  the  Alfandega  (Custom-House)  of  Eio 
de  Janeiro,  and  caused  to  be  distributed  among,  preserved  in,  and 
used  by,  the  said  several  schools,  as  books  of  general  reading  and 
instriLCtion  for  the  pupils  of  the  same. 

"  'With  the  most  sincere  desires  for  the  moral  and  civil  prosperity 
of  the  Imperial  province  of  San  Paulo,  the  above  proposition  is 
humbly  and  respectfully  submitted.  "  'D.  P.  Kidder. 

*'  'City  of  San  Paulo,  Feb.  15,  1839.' 

"The  same  day  I  received  a  verbal  message,  saying  that  the 
Assembly  had  received  the  proposition  with  peculiar  satisfaction, 
and  referred  it  to  the  two  committees  on  ecclesiastical  affairs  and 
on  public  instruction.  The  following  official  communication  was 
subsequently  received : — 


Response  and  Results.  393 

TRANSLATION. 

"  'To  Mr.  Kidder  : — I  inform  you  that  the  Legislative  Assembly- 
has  received  with  especial  satisfaction  your  offer  of  copies  of  the 
New  Testament,  translated  by  the  Padre  Antonio  Pereira  de 
Figueiredo,  and  that  the  Legislature  will  enter  into  a  deliberation 
upon  the  subject,  the  result  of  which  will  be  communicated  to  you. 

"  •  God  preserve  you  1 

"'Miguel  Eufrazio  de  Azevedo  Marquez,  Sec. 


"  'Palace  of  the  Provincial  Assembly, 
S.  Paulo,  Feb.  20,  1839.' 


} 


"Among  other  acquaintances  formed  at  S.Paulo  was  that  of  a 
clergyman,  another  professor  in  the  Law  University.  His  con- 
versation was  frank  and  interesting,  and  his  views  unusually 
liberal.  He  gave  as  emphatic  an  account  as  I  have  heard  from 
any  one  of  the  unhappy  abandonment  of  all  vital  godliness  and 
of  the  unworthiness  of  many  of  the  clergy.  He  approved  of  the 
enterprise  of  the  Bible  Societies,  and  cheerfully  consented  to  pro- 
mote it  within  the  circle  of  his  influence  by  distributing  Bibles 
and  tracts,  and  reporting  their  utility.  Exchanging  addresses 
with  this  gentleman,  I  left  him,  entertaining  a  high  estimation 
of  his  good  intentions,  and  with  ardent  hopes  that  he  might  yet  be 
greatly  useful  in  the  regeneration  of  his  Church  and  in  the  salva- 
tion of  his  countrymen. 

"Thus  were  happily  completed  arrangements  with  persons  of 
the  first  respectability  and  influence,  in  each  principal  place  of  the 
interior  which  I  had  visited,  that  they  should  distribute  the  word 
of  God  among  their  fellow-citizens.  All  the  copies  that  I  brought 
were  already  disposed  of,  and  there  was  a  pi'ospect  that  the  day 
was  not  distant  when  it  could  be  said  that  a  Roman  Catholic  Legis- 
lature had  fully  sanctioned  the  use  of  the  Holy  Scriptures  in  the 
public  schools  of  their  entire  territory.  I  was  told,  on  the  best 
authority,  that  the  committees  of  the  Assembly  were  drafting  a 
joint  report,  recommending  compliance  with  the  offer  by  means 
of  an  order  on  the  treasury  for  the  funds  needed  in  payment  of  the 
duties  and  the  expense  of  distribution. 

"Such  circumstances  as  the  results  of  this  short  visit  were  so  far 
bej^ond  the  most  sanguine  anticipation,  that,  on  leaving,  I  found  it 
difficult  to  restrain  my  feelings  of  gratitude  and  delight  for  what 
mine  eyes  had  seen  and  mine  ears  had  heard. 


394  Brazil  and  the  iiRAziLiANS. 

"In  conclusion,  it  becomes  necessary  to  add  that,  owing  to  the 
n.gitatious  and  intrigues  common  to  most  political  bodies,  action  in 
reference  to  my  proposition  was  delayed  beyond  the  exj)ectation 
of  its  friends.  The  last  direct  intelligence  I  had  from  the  subject 
was  received  in  conversation  with  the  president  of  the  Assembly. 
I  met  this  gentleman  on  his  subsequent  arrival  at  Eio  de  Janeiro 
to  discharge  his  duties  as  a  member  of  the  House  of  Deputies. 
He  informed  me  that  such  were  the  political  animosities  existing 
between  the  two  parties  into  which  the  Assembly  was  divided  that 
very  little  business  of  any  kind  had  been  done  during  the  session. 
The  minority  as  a  party,  and  individuals  of  the  majority,  fovored 
the  project,  but,  under  the  circumstances,  did  not  wish  to  urge  im- 
mediate action  upon  it.  JVIeantime,  through  some  slanders  circu- 
lated by  an  English  Catholic  priest  residing  at  Eio,  the  suspicions 
of  the  old  bishop  were  excited  lest  the  translation  was  not  actually 
what  it  purjDorted  to  be,  but  had  suffered  alterations. 

"An  examination  was  proposed,  but,  either  through  inability  or 
wilful  neglect,  was  not  attempted ;  and  thus  the  superstitious 
humor  of  the  old  diocesan  was  counted  among  other  things  which 
caused  delay.  The  president  expressed  a  hope  that  on  the  next 
organization  of  the  Assembly  the  proposal  would  be  fully  accepted. 

"I  subsequently  saw  in  a  newspaper  that  the  committee  to  whom 
the  subject  had  been  referred,  or  probably  its  chairman,  in  direct 
contravention  of  his  voluntary  promise  to  me,  but  in  obedience  to 
the  old  bishop's  idle  fears,  had  filed  in  the  secretary's  office  a  rejiort 
unfavorable  to  the  proposal.  The  proposition  Avas  probably  never 
acted  upon.  To  the  credit  of  the  province,  it  certainly  was  never 
formally  rejected." 

The  dissemination  of  the  truth,  however,  does  not  depend  upon 
legislative  acts  or  the  aid  of  statesmen,  though  we  may  hail  with 
pleasure  everj''  move  of  the  "powers  that  be"  for  the  advancement 
of  knowledge  and  religion.  The  circulation  of  the  Scriptures  is 
not  a  matter  of  sectarianism ;  and  all  should  rejoice  in  the  diffusion 
of  that  "which"  (as  the  barbarian  chieftain  in  Northumberland 
said  to  his  compeers  Avhen  the  first  monk  visited  Britannia) 
"  teaches  us  the  origin  and  the  destiny'  of  our  souls." 

I  visited  the  province  of  S.  Paulo  more  than  sixteen  years  after 
the  events  narrated  above,  and  I  found  the  same  willingness  mani- 


Fruits  of  Former  Labors.  395 

fested  by  all  ranks  of  society  in  the  reception  of  the  word  which 
my  companion  in  authorship  experienced  among  the  Paulistas,  and 
1  was  thus  enabled  to  diffuse  very  many  copies  of  Holy  Writ.  From 
time  to  time,  in  this  pleasant  portion  of  Brazil,  I  found  much  to 
encourage  my  labors  among  the  humble  and  ignorant  as  well  as 
among  the  more  elevated  and  intelligent.  It  was  not  less  pleasing 
occasionally  to  trace  the  workings  of  the  seeds  of  truth  sown  so 
many  yeai's  before  by  Dr.  Kidder.  I  found  that  an  eminent  Brazilian 
had  been  won,  by  the  perusal  of  A  Santa  Biblia,  to  "  wisdom's  ways," 
and  to  become  the  earnest  advocate  of  its  circulation.  Far  in  the 
interior  of  this  province  I  met  with  two  gentlemen  who  did  not 
profess  to  be  Christians,  but  who,  as  philanthropists,  took  a  deep 
interest  in  the  Bible  cause.  One  of  them  told  me  that  a  Brazilian 
came  to  him  a  few  days  before  with  a  Portuguese  Bible,  saying 
that  he  was  "so  rejoiced  to  have  the  Bible  in  his  own  vernacular." 
My  informant  thinks  this  Biblia  must  have  come  either  from  my  pre- 
decessor or  from  the  Bibles  left  at  the  house  of  an  American  merchant 
in  Rio  de  Janeiro.  I  was  also  informed  by  an  English  Avatchmaker 
at  Campinas  that  he  had  met  with  a  Brazilian  who  had  in  his  pos- 
session a  Portuguese  Bible,  and  that  he  took  great  pleasure  in  carry- 
ing it  with  him  to  the  Eoman  Catholic  church  each  Sunday. 

In  a  most  fertile  and  densely-populated  portion  of  the  province 
I  made  the  acquaintance  of  a  physician  who  had  resided  in  Brazil 
eleven  years, — had  travelled,  for  scientific  purposes,  through  much 
of  the  Empire, — had  won  the  respect  and  esteem  of  the  Brazilians 
by  his  affability  as  well  as  his  professional  ability.  lie  therefore 
has  a  great  influence.  It  is  his  opinion  that  Brazil,  in  a  certain 
sense,  is  I'eady  for  a  reformation;  but  that  the  inhabitants  have 
had  such  immoral  priests,  and  are  themselves  so  low  in  a  moral 
point  of  view,  that  it  would  not  be  a  vigorous  breaking  away  from 
the  trammels  of  Eomanism.  They  are,  however,  not  bigoted,  and 
are  willing  to  read.  He  it  was  that  gave  me  the  instance  of  the 
padre  who,  by  reading  some  of  the  works  of  Luther  that  had 
strayed  from  Germany  into  Brazil,  preached  such  Protestant  ser- 
mons that  he  was  attacked  by  the  bishop,  and  finaUy  driven  away 
from  his  parish,  but  not  from  his  sentiments.  It  seemed  to  me, 
when  hearing  of  this  incident,  that  the  old  German  Eeformer  was 
still  hurling  his  inkstand. 


CHAPTEE  XXI. 

AGREEABLE     ACQUAINTANCE OLD    CONGO'S     SPUES LODGING    AND     SLEEPING COM- 
PANY  CAMPINAS ILLUMINATIONS — A    NIGHT    AMONG     THE     LOWLY ARRIVAL    AT 

LIMEIRA A    PENNSTLVANIAN A     NIGHT    WITH    A    BOA     CONSTRICTOR — EVENTFUL 

AND     ROMANTIC    LIFE     OF    A    NATURALIST — THE     BIRD-COLONY     DESTINED     TO    THE 

PHILADELPHIA     ACADEMY     OF     NATURAL    SCIENCES YBECABA SKETCH    OF    THE 

VERGUEIROS PLAN     OF     COLONIZATION BRIDGE     OF     NOVEL      CONSTRUCTION 

FUTURE    PROSPECTS. 

On  the  morning  of  the  21st  of  June,  I  left  the  city  of  San  Paulo 
for  Limeira.  Before  starting,  I  called  upon  Messrs.  E.  and  C,  two 
English  engineers  who  had  come  out  to  make  the  surveys  for  a  car- 
riage-road into  the  interior.  In  the  bookcase  of  Madam  E.  I 
found  many  an  old  friend.  How  curious  it  was  to  see  Cheever's 
"Windings  by  the  Waters  of  the  Eiver  of  Life,"  Hamilton's  "Life 
in  Earnest,"  and  other  good  books,  in  this  distant  city,  whose  very 
existence  was  perhaps  unknown  to  the  authors  mentioned !  I  was 
loath  to  leave  the  agreeable  company  at  Mr.  E.'s;  but  my  mules,  horse, 
and  conductor  were  all  ready,  and  now,  with  this  cavalcade,  vamos. 

My  conductor  was  an  old  darkey  of  sixty,  whose  vestments  con- 
sisted of  a  roundabout,  a  pair  of  pantaloons,  and  an  old  straw 
hat.  His  naked,  bony  heels  were  ungarnished  by  the  slightest 
sign  of  a  spur.  As  I  was  to  ride  fast,  in  order  to  accomplish  my 
journey  in  a  given  time,  I  saw  that  it  would  never  do  to  have  old 
Congo  go  unarmed  as  to  his  pedal  ex- 
tremities ;  so,  reining  up  at  a  hard- 
ware-store, I  furnished  the  ancient  with 
a  pair  of  iron  spurs,  each  sj^ike  of 
which  was  large  enough  for  the  gaff  of 
a  fighting-cock.  With  a  bit  of  whip- 
cord he  fastened  them  to  his  skinny 
ankles,  and,  mounting,  we  were  soon 
en  route,  and  in  a  few  minutes  cleared  the  city  of  San  Paulo. 

At  ten  o'clock  in  this  climate  the  sun  is  by  no  means  cold.     Tho 
396 


Old  Congo's  Spurs.  397 

extra  animals,  once  outside  of  the  streets,  had  a  great  disposition 
to  roam  over  the  plains  of  Piratininga,  and  much  of  our  time  was 
lost  in  changing  from  one  side  of  the  road  to  the  other  in  search 
of  the  fugitives.  Under  the  influence  of  his  unusual  exercise  and 
the  warmth  of  the  day,  the  juice  of  youth  seemed  to  he  oozing  out 
of  old  Congo.  He  uttered  prayers,  at  a  most  vociferous  rate,  to 
Santa  Maria  and  Diabo.  And  I  am  sorry  to  record  that  most  of 
his  pious  ejaculations  were  to  the  latter  character,  whose  name, 
though  not  in  the  calendar,  is  more  frequently  used  in  Brazil  than 
those  of  all  the  saints  put  together.  Hearing  the  clatter  of  hoofs 
behind  us,  I  turned  round,  and  beheld  two  Paulistas  galloping  in 
the  same  direction  with  ourselves.  In  passing  us,  they  both  burst 
into  a  fit  of  immoderate  laughter.  I  could  not  at  first  divine  what 
so  excited  their  caehinnatory  powers,  until  one  of  them  exclaimed, 
"  Olha  as  esporas."  Upon  looking  down,  I  perceived  that  the  whip- 
cord which  fastened  the  iron  spikes  to  the  heels  of  old  Congo  had 
slipped  around,  and  the  spur  was  standing 
out  prominently  in  front  of  his  instej).  The 
old  fellow,  in  his  ai'duous  chase  after  the 
wandering  mules,  had  not  i^erceived  this,  and 
went  on  belaboring  and  thumping  the  sides 
of  his  animal  with  his  blunt,  bony  heels. 
After  the  ride  of  a  league,  I  found  my 
boxes;  but  Joachim  Antonio  da  Silva,  the  muleteer  who  had  them 
in  charge,  would  not  give  them  up  until  I  made  many  assurances 
that  all  was  right.    And  now  once  more  forward ! 

Previous  to  to-day,  I  had  always  had  young  negroes  or  German 
boys  for  my  conductors,  and  I  feared  that  the  ambition  of  old 
Congo  was  dead,  and  that  no  hope  of  reward  would  resurrect  it. 
He  went  very  slow:  the  journey  must  be  accomplished  with  those 
boxes  in  four  days,  or  I  could  not  come  off"  victor.  The  trip  was 
considered,  by  muleteers,  one  of  eight  days;  so,  in  order  to  accele- 
rate the  speed  of  my  animals,  I  determined  not  to  leave  old  Congo. 
We  pushed  on,  as  rapidly  as  possible,  through  a  fine  region  of 
countr}^,  abounding  in  coffee  and  sugar  plantations.  I  had  much 
conversation  with  the  old  negro,  who  could  remember  when,  more 
than  half  a  century  ago,  he  was  stolen  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  but 
did  not  recollect  ever  having  heard  the  story  of  the  Creation  and 


398  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Eedcmption;  so  I  employed  myself  in  endeavoring  to  pour  into  his 
mind  some  light  on  that  greatest  of  all  subjects  to  man.  lie  found 
it  very  interesting,  and  pronounced  it  ^'muito  bonito,"  (very  beau- 
tiful.) 

"With  all  our  pushing,  driving,  and  changing  animals,  we  only 
got  over  twenty-four  miles, — which  is  a  good  day's  work  for  Bra- 
zilians, but  did  not  satisfy  me.  By,  a  bright  moon  we  arrived  at  a 
house  where  we  could  find  no  "entertainment  for  man  or  beast." 
"We  rode  on  to  a  mere  road-side  hovel,  and  to  our  question,  Tern 
lugar?  we  received  the  response,  ""We  cannot  receive  jovl:  we  have 
no  room."  This  was  from  a  slatternly-looking  mulattress.  Every 
thing  was  against  us;  but  it  was  imijossible  for  us  to  go  farther. 
Old  Congo,  however,  made  a  speech  with  such  eloquence  that  the 
desired  quarters  were  obtained.  And  such  a  room !  No  cabin  in 
Old  Ireland,  or  clapboard  shed  in  the  "Far  "West,"  could  surpass  it 
in  ugliness  and  narrowness,  to  say  nothing  of  dirt.  The  floor  was 
mud,  and  the  walls  were  of  dried  mud,  ornamented  with  the  marks 
of  the  "daubing"  fingers.  It  was  six  feet  by  eight,  and  here  were 
stowed  self,  saddles,  sacks,  and  Congo.  No  wonder  that  they  said  ■ 
they  had  "no  room."  "We  supped  off  of  beans,  uncooked  corn- 
meal,  and  eggs,  whose  durable  qualities  were,  not  to  be  questioned. 
AVe  (that  is,  I  first  and  Congo  afterward)  stood  up  (for  there  was 
no  chair  in  the  house)  to  a  table  something  like  a  horse-trough.  I 
am  capable  of  any  thing.  My  bed  was  a  mat  spread  on  a  board 
and  graced  by  a  pillow  and  a  sheet.  Such  an  article  as  a  coverlet 
did  not  exist  in  that  casa.  The  African  had  more  sense  than  I 
had,  for  his  poncho  was  large  and  heavy.  By  a  dim  light  stuck 
into  the  mud  wall,  I  read  to  poor  old  Congo  the  first  passage  of  the 
Holy  "Word  that  he,  doubtless,  had  ever  heard  in  a  language  which 
he  understood;  then,  praying  in  Portuguese,  I  lay  down  upon  my 
board,  and  he  upon  the  ground,  which  I  think  must  have  been  a 
softer  couch  than  mine.  In  a  letter  to  a  friend  I  thus  detailed  my 
experience: — "I  piled  on  to  me,  in  lieu  of  coverlet,  my  saddle- 
cloth and  mackintosh.  I  was  more  sensitive  to  the  cold  than  the 
night  before,  and  sleep  would  not  be  wooed.  I  then  put  on  my 
coat;  but  that  did  not  keep  off  the  cold  nor  the  fleas,  which  were 
'still  so  gently  o'er  me'  creeping.  I  kicked  away  until  I  could 
stand  it  no  longer,  and  then  (I  scarcely  dare  write  it  to  you)  I 


How  We  Slept.  399 

aroused  old  Congo  from  a  sound  sleep,  and  made  him  get  into — no 
— on  to  my  board,  to  warm  me.  It  was  not  exactly  the  ease  of  the 
aged  monarch  of  Israel;  for  it  was  cruel  to  transfer  the  ancient 
darky  from  the  comfortable  bosom  of  mother-earth  to  the  hard 
realities  of  a  soft  board  and  a  cold  young  man.  I  profited  nothing 
by  it,  for  slumber  came  not  to  my  eyelids,  and  the  thought  of  cer- 
tain bixos  rendered  me  still  more  wakeful,  if  such  a  thing  were 
possible." 

Before  cock-crowing  I  ordered  the  mules  to  be  saddled,  and  at 
dajdight  we  were  again  on  our  way.  I  rode  on,  far  in  advance  of 
my  muleteer,  and,  passing  a  mile  beyond  the  village  of  Jundiahy,  I 
arrived  at  the  hotel  of  Senhor  Jose  Pinto.  I  found  a  large  party 
at  a  twelve-o'clock  breakfast,  which  repast  was  perfectly  a  la 
Brazilienne.  They  supposed  that  I  would  wish  matters  in  a  different 
style,  but  I  made  them  all  at  ease  by  sitting  down,  telling  them 
that  I  was  not  a  stranger,  and  manifesting  my  "at-homenoss"  by 
eating  as  heartily  of  their  dishes  as  if  I  had  been  accustomed  to 
them  all  my  life.  This  opened  their  hearts,  and  thus  gave  me,  both 
then  and  afterward,  an  opportunity  of  speaking  of  those  higher 
interests  which  concern  man  here  below. 

In  two  hours  or  more  my  baggage-mules  came  up.  I  perceived 
that,  at  this  rate,  it  would  be  impossible  for  me  to  get  on  as  I 
wished,  or  to  complete  all  my  arrangements  at  Limeira  and 
Ybecaba  and  get  back  to  Eio  de  Janeiro  for  my  northern  trip. 
Fortunately  for  me,  I  foimd  at  Jose  Pinto's  the  two  Paulistas  whose 
mirth  had  been  so  excited  at  the  revolution  of  the  old  African's 
spurs.  They  were  going  far  into  the  interior,  and  had  an  extra 
animal,  Avhich  I  hired,  and  pushed  on,  accompanied  by  them,  leav- 
ing my  old  Congo  to  come  up  sem  duvida  (without  fail)  two  days 
after  me. 

I  had  now  a  better  opportunity  of  knowing  something  more  of 
the  moradores,  or  road-side  dwellers,  of  which  class  my  companions 
were  specimens.  They  sang  for  me  fandango  melodies,  Ethiopian 
airs  in  bad  Portuguese,  and  entertained  me  in  various  ways.  In 
return,  I  gave  them  some  information  about  the  world  outside  of 
Brazil,  not  leaving  out,  in  the  end,  a  mention  of  the  "Hapjiy 
Land." 

Our  resting-place  was  to  be  the  important  town  of  Campinas, 


400  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

(or  San  Carlos,)  more  than  one  hundred  miles  in  the  interior.  As 
we  approached  this  town,  I  was  struck  by  the  beauty  and  fertility 
of  the  surrounding  country.  The  grand  old  mountains  had  been 
left  far  behind  us,  and  around,  as  far  as  I  could  see,  were  extensive 
plains,  or  rather  rolling  prairies,  and  almost  every  acre  occupied. 
There  were  most  highly-cultivated  coffee-plantations,  from  whose 
deep  green  could  be  seen,  peeping  here  and  there,  the  large  white  resi- 
dences of  the  plantei'S.  It  was  on  the  evening  of  the  28th  of  June 
that  we  drew  near  Campinas.  The  clear  beauty  of  the  tropic  night 
was  made  even  more  beautiful  by  the  illumination  of  the  city, 
by  the  huge  bonfii'es  spread  over  the  plains,  and  by  the  most  bril- 
liant fireworks  sent  up  from  every  street  and  from  all  the  sur- 
rounding plantations.  The  sight  and  sounds  were  such  that  one, 
without  any  stretch  of  imagination,  would  have  believed  himself 
near  some  besieged  city  during  a  fierce  bombardment.  It  was 
"St.  Peter's  Eve;"  and  every  man  who  had  a  Pedro  attached  to  his 
name  felt  himself  obligated  to  burn  a  huge  heap  of  combustibles 
before  his  door,  and  to  send  up  any  quantity  of  sky-rockets  and 
fire  off  innumerable  pistols,  muskets,  and  cannon.  Under  such  a 
storm  we  entered  Campinas.  My  two  Paulistas  led  me  through 
the  narrow  streets,  and  we  finally  arrived  before  a  row  of  small 
whitewashed  houses.  These  were  the  residences  of  the  friends  of 
my  Paulistas;  but  I  could  not  think  of  stopping  there,  and  desired 
that  some  one  would  lead  the  way  to  an  inn.  They  were  all  very 
kind,  but  were  so  occupied  with  our  tired  animals  that  no  one 
could  be  spared  for  the  purpose.  The  hotel,  if  one  can  call  it  such, 
was  at  a  great  distance,  and  it  was  suggested  that  I  had  better 
stop  with  them,  though  it  was  muito  mal,  (very  bad  fare.)  I  thought 
that  it  could  not  be  harder  than  the  night  before.  I  entered :  this 
was  the  residence  of  Senhor  Theobardo  o  Carpinteiro ;  or,  in  plain 
English,  Theobald  the  carpenter.  Senhor  Theobardo,  however,  had 
not  expended  any  of  his  skill  upon  his  own  house,  for  the  floors 
and  the  walls  were  composed  of  the  same  substance  as  the  street. 
The  night  before  I  had  only  been  in  the  outer  court.  I  now  had 
an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  inner  temple.  Senhor  Theobardo  was 
half  Indian,  half  mulatto,  and  I  think  that,  if  he  could  have  had 
an  extra  half,  it  would  have  been  yellow  Portuguese.  He  and  his 
children  had  formed  such  a  close   alliance  with  the  substance  of 


Sr.  Theobarda  the  Carpenter.  401 

which  hia  floors  were  made,  that  one  could  literally  say  that  all 
(judging  from  their  complexion)  were  of  the  "dust  of  the  earth." 
The  kitchen,  which  served  the  pui'pose  of  parlor  and  dining-room, 
was  without  chimney,  chairs,  or  any  of  the  appliances  of  civilized 
life.  A  few  earthen  pots  were  the  culinary  utensils,  and  a  fire  in 
one  corner  of  the  room,  in  the  style  of  the  Patagonians,  (indeed,  1 
have  seen  the  same  kind  among  the  Terra  del  Fuegians,)  served  for 
cooking,  the  smoke  the  meanAvhile  escaping  as  best  it  could. 
When  I  saw  Mr.  Theobardo,  Mrs.  T.,  and  all  the  little  T.s  squatting 
around  the  fire,  and  the  mellow  light  of  the  embers  not  softening 
their  sallow  features,  which,  excepting  their  flashing  eyes,  were  un- 
relieved by  a  single  trace  of  cleanliness  or  grace,  I  thought  that 
Borrow,  in  his  wildest  adventures  among  the  gypsies  of  Spain, 
could  not  have  witnessed  a  group  more  wild,  more  dirty,  or  more 
picturesque.  But  I  soon  found  that,  although  thej^  had  dirty 
faces,  they  had  large  hearts,  and  I  reflected  that  my  mission  was 
to  them  as  Avell  as  to  the  more  elevated;  so  I  made  myself  at 
home,  and  also  put  them  at  their  ease.  We  talked  about  the  United 
States,  and  finally  I  got  out  a  Portuguese  New  Testament,  and, 
collecting  whites,  and  those  who  had  all  sorts  of  mixtures,  from 
the  white,  through  the  red,  down  to  the  negro,  I  commenced  read- 
ing the  Holy  Book.  I  had  a  most  interested  audience,  who  proba- 
bly for  the  first  time  heard  the  message  of  salvation.  I  shall 
never  forget  that  night,  and  the  kindness  of  the  most  lowly  people 
I  ever  met  Avith, — lowly,  at  least,  as  to  this  world's  goods;  and 
it  is  my  earnest  hope  and  prayer  that  the  truth  may  reach  and 
enrich  their  souls. 

The  room  which  they  assigned  to  me  was  not  quite  so  large  as 
the  one  I  had  occupied  the  night  before,  and  was  shared  between 
boards,  planes,  chisels,  saws,  harness,  saddles,  a  Paulista,  and  my- 
self Just  as  I  was  retiring,  a  huge  wooden  bowl,  as  large  as  a 
bath-tub,  was  brought  to  me  filled  with  water.  This  was  of  their 
own  accord :  but  who  would  have  thought  it,  among  these  people 
who  apparently  never  performed  any  ablutions  ? 

That  night  slumber  was  sweet  indeed;  and  the  next  morning  I 

departed  at  an  early  hour,  leaving  my  blessing  and  one  milreis  with 

the  kind  Theobardo.     The  former  he  accepted,  but  the  latter  he 

declined,  until  I  forced  it  upon  him  as  a  lenibrani^a. 

26 


402  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Our  route  was  still  more  picturesque  than  that  of  yesterday 
The  fine  road  was  overshadowed  by  trees  and  wild  vines;  and  the 
carolling  birds  and  singing  Paulistas  made  the  ten  leagues  appear 
short.  Our  party  was  enlarged  by  two  young  Germans  on  their 
way  to  Ybecaba.  All  the  houses  by  the  road-sides,  and  even  the 
huge  churches,  are  built  of  (or,  rather,  rammed  down  with)  mud 
or  clay.  The  large  conventual  buildings  of  S.  Paulo  and  the  im- 
mense church  of  Campinas  (whose  walls  are  five  feet  in  diameter) 
are  composed  of  beaten  earth. 

The  whole  feature  of  the  country  had  changed:  the  sublime 
scenery  of  the  coast  was  not  here  to  be  found,  but,  in  its  stead,  that 
which  reminded  me  of  the  United  States.  In  the  newness  of  the 
settlements  and  plantations,  I  could  have  easily  believed  myself  in 
the  northern  part  of  Ohio.  We  were  now  constantly  fording  and 
passing  over  streams,  which  were  the  head-waters  of  the  River 
Plate.  We  pushed  on  until  night,  illumined  by  a  full  moon  in  an 
unclouded  sky,  brought  us  to  the  town  of  Limeira.     Here  I  had 

before  been  informed  I  should  find  an  American  physician,  Dr. , 

formerly  of  Pennsylvania.  I  rode  up  to  his  house,  and  had  a  most 
welcome  reception.  I  desired  to  journey  on  by  moonlight  to  the 
plantation  of  Senator  Vergueiro;  but  the  doctor  would  take  no  re- 
fusal, and  stated  as  a  further  inducement  that  another  American 
had  arrived  that  very  day,  and  that  we  together  would  compose 
such  a  trio  as  had  never  before  been  seen  in  the  distant  villa  of 
Limeira. 

Limeira  is  situated  in  a  most  fertile  region,  watered  by  streams 

that  send  their  tribute  to  the  mighty  Parana.     If  Dr. was 

surprised  at  my  unexpected  arrival,  I  was  no  less  astonished  to 
learn  that  another  American  had  arrived  that  day,  who  was  peram- 
bulating the  province,  practising  his  profession  of  dentist.  In 
what  nation  pretending  to  civilization  will  you  not  find  the  Ame- 
rican dentist?  I  may  be  permitted  to  indulge  a  little  patriotic 
pride  when  speaking  of  this  profession,  whose  members  more  than 
any  other  of  my  compatriots  may  be  found  in  almost  any  portion 
of  the  world.  Their  superior  merits  have  been  repeatedly  acknow- 
ledged by  Englishmen  and  Frenchmen  of  the  same  profession.  The 
secret  of  their  perfection  and  success  has  been  owing  to  various 
causes,  not  the  least  of  which  is  the  regular  dental  colleges  which 


American  Dentists  in  Foreign  Lands.  403 

exist  in  the  United  States,  being  the  first  institutions  of  the  kind 
ever  founded,  and  until  recently  the  only  ones  in  the  world.  I  have 
met  with  American  dentists  at  Eio  de  Janeiro,  Valparaiso,  and  in 
New  Granada.  At  Paris  the  dentists  a  la  mode  are  Americans.*  A 
sickly  schoolmate,  with  whom  in  years  gone  by  I  had  dug  out 
many  a  page  of  hard  Latin,  is  now  the  most  popular  dentist  in 
Berlin.  On  the  continent,  in  interior  cities,  you  will  meet  with 
Yankee  teeth-replacers  and  teeth-extractors;  and,  if  the  professor 
or  doctor  has  not  the  advantage  of  being  a  citizen  of  the  great 
Eepublic,  he  publishes  in  emphatic  characters  in  his  advertisements 
that  he  has  studied  his  profession  in  the  United  States,  or  fills  molars 
d  la  mode  Americaine. 

But  to  return  to  Dr. .     He  gave  me  a  hearty  Pennsylvania 

welcome,  and,  as  it  was  late,  soon  conducted  me  to  my  chamber. 
Now,  this  chamber  was  adjacent  to  a  medicine-room,  where  were 
not  only  plenty  of  the  bottled  doses  which  flesh  in  Brazil  is  fre- 
quently "heir  to,"  but  also  the  apartment  was  adorned  with  many 
specimens  of  the  rich  floral  and  animal  kingdoms  of  Brazil.  There 
being  no  door  to  close  the  aperture  that  existed  between  this  room 
and  mine,  I  was  frequently  disturbed  during  the  night  by  a  strange 
noise,  which  could  not  proceed  from  unemployed  physic  or  from  the 
dx'ied  and  stuffed  specimens  which  were  hung  around  in  profusion. 
When  daylight  returned,  I  ascertained  that  the  singular  noise  had 
arisen  from  the  rustling  of  a  very  fine  boa-constrictor,  that  had  slept 
(or  rather  attempted  to  sleep)  within  about  eight  feet  of  my  bed. 


*  Amekican  Dentists. — Mr.  Walsh,  the  Paris  correspondent  of  the  Journal  of 
Commerce,  in  a  late  letter,  says : — 

"  A  few  days  ago  I  had  occasion  to  apply  to  the  principal  Paris  bookseller  in  the 
department  of  medicine  for  some  recent  comprehensive  and  elegant  work  on  Den- 
tistry, lie  wrote  to  me  at  once  the  following  reply : — '  I  regret  that  it  is  not  in  my 
power  to  meet  your  wishes  :  there  is  nothing  recent  nor  good  in  France  on  the  art 
and  science  of  dentistry.  Our  surgeons  are  obliged  to  borrow  from  the  Americans 
their  proficiency  and  treatises  on  this  subject,  acknowledging  that  your  country- 
men are  much  further  advanced  than  they  themselves  are  in  this  important  branch 
of  the  medical  art.  It  is  unnecessary  for  me  to  mention  to  you  works  published 
fifteen  years  ago.'  Your  dentists  may  be  gratified  by  this  testimony.  The  success 
of  the  Americans  of  the  profession  who  have  settled  in  this  capital  is  strong  evi- 
dence of  the  justness  of  appreciation." 


404  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

This  room-mate  of  mine  had  been  jjresented  to  the  dcctor,  and  was 
one  of  the  chief  occupants  of  the  medical  apartment. 

The  doctor's  life  had  been  of  that  romantic  kind  which  from 
time  to  time  we  find  coupled  with  devoted  study  and  hard  reality. 
A  great  lover  of  nature,  he  early  turned  his  attention  to  botany  and 
geology.  lie  roamed  over  the  whole  United  States,  and  finally 
came  with  a  few  others  to  Brazil,  many  years  ago,  to  explore  the 
flora  and  mineralogy  of  this  Empire.  Being  an  enthusiastic  natu- 
ralist, he  fairly  revelled  in  the  glorious  field  of  his  favorite  studies; 
but  the  sickness  of  one  of  the  expedition  brought  him  back  to  Rio 
de  Janeiro,  where  he  was  induced  by  the  Amei-ican  minister  to  fill 
the  place  of  mineralogist  on  board  of  an  American  frigate  which 
was  on  its  way  to  examine  the  coal-fields  of  Borneo.  I  shall  not 
soon  forget  the  interesting  account  which  he  gave-  me  of  this  ex- 
pedition, during  which  he  visited  Madagascar,  the  coasts  of  Zanzi- 
bar, China,  Tonquin,  Manilla,  &c.  &c.  His  reports  adorn  the 
publications  of  the  Smithsonian  Institute.  After  he  had  filled  hia 
accepted  time  of  service  on  board  the  frigate,  he  returned  to  Brazil, 
penetrated  the  forest,  and  resumed,  on  his  own  account,  further 
explorations;  but,  in  order  to  obtain  the  necessary  means,  he  first 
practised  his  profession  as  a  physician. 

From  other  lips  I  learned  the  sequel  of  the  doctor's  adventures 
in  a  field  .widely  different  from  that  of  botany.  He  opened  his 
office  on  the  plaza  of  an  important  town  in  the  interior  of  San 
Paulo.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  square  was  a  young  Brazilian 
widow,  endowed  with  the  double  attraction  of  wealth  and  beauty. 
It  was  not  long  before  the  doctor  was  approached  by  empenhos,"^ 
and  became  duly  informed  that  the  bereaved  Brazilienne  thought 
that  she  could  find  in  him  a  solace  for  all  her  afflictions.  The  doctor 
replied  that  he  was  already  married  to  the  virgin  forests,  and,  not 
contemplating  another  marriage,  ran  away  to  his  beautiful  woods. 

*  Einpenho :  this  word  is  used  in  Brazil  to  express  the  idea,  in  politics,  commerce, 
&c.  &c.,  of  soliciting  aid,  promotion,  and  favors  not  by  direct  approaches.  Thus, 
A  Tvishes  a  favor  from  D :  A  ascertains  that  B  is  very  well  acquainted  with  C,  who 
is  a  most  influential  friend  of  D,  and  to  whom  D  is  under  obligations.  B  goes  to  C 
and  C  in  turn  to  D,  and  thus  the  favor  is  obtained  through  intermediates.  The 
verb  cmpenhar  means  to  lay,  to  pawn,  to  pledge,  to  persuade.  Dinheiro,  Diabo, 
and  Empenho  are  most  frequently  used  in  Brazil. 


EoM^NCE  OF  A  Botanist.  405 

On  his  return,  however,  a  more  powerful  empenho  was  brought  to 
bear  upon  him.  The  doctor  yielded, — was  led  to  the  church,  and 
the  fair  Paulista  married  him.  Their  ixnion  was  blessed  by  a  fine, 
chubby  boy,  whom  the  patriotic  physician  named  George  Washing- 
ton, fondly  hoping  that  this  was  the  first  child  born  in  Brazil  who 
bore  the  illustrious  name.  "But,"  said  he,  "fancy  my  disgust 
when,  the  other  day,  I  learned  that  some  yellow  Sertanejo  had 
anticipated  me,  and  had  his  clay-bank  urchin  baptized  also  George 
Washington !" 

At  the  earnest  request  of  influential  persons,  he  took  up  his 
residence  at  Limeira;  but  his  plans  for  botanical  researches,  foiled 
for  a  time,  have  not  been  given  up,  and  it  is  his  intention  at  some 
future  day  to  explore  the  dense  sylva  of  the  interior,  where  nature 
so  luxuriantly  abounds  in  the  gigantic,  the  wonderful,  and  the 
beautiful. 

On  the  following  morning  after  my  arrival  at  Limeira,  accom- 
panied by  Dr. ,  I  went  to  the  Fazenda  de  Ybecaba,  the  planta- 
tion of  the  Vergueiros.  It  was  a  clear  and  lovely  day,  and  we 
rode  along  under  an  archway  of  forest-trees,  manj-  of  them  clad 
with  the  most  curious  epiphytes  and  orchidaceous  plants.  From 
time  to  time  the  doctor  would  point  out  some  very  remarkable 
subjects  of  this  portion  of  Flora's  kingdom,  and  delineate  their 
peculiarities  and  qualities  as  only  one  can  whose  heart  is  bound 
up  in  the  beauties  of  nature.  We  halted  in  an  open  space,  and  my 
companion  indicated  with  his  finger  one  of  the  common  palms  of 
this  region.  In  the  tree  itself  there  was  nothing  to  render  it 
worthy  of  attention  above  its  fellows  to  those  accustomed  to  its 
graceful  form;  but  there  was  an  accidental  interest  given  to  it 
which  called  forth  the  doctor's  enthusiastic  admiration.  He  was 
not  only  a  thoroughly-educated  botanist  and  mineralogist,  but  was 
an  amateur  ornithologist,  and  loved  to  watch  every  trait  of  the 
gaudy  and  brilliant  birds  of  Brazil.  From  the  tufted  crown  of  the 
palm  there  hung  twenty  nests  of  the  large  oriole  called  the  Iguash; 
and  the  feathery  inhabitants  of  this  swinging  town  were  hovering 
around  and  chattering  like  "children  just  let  loose  from  school." 
The  doctor  informed  me  that,  though  so  many  leagues  intervened 
between  Limeira  and  the  sea-coast,  he  would  cause  the  tree  to 
be  carefully  cut  down,  sawed  into  sections,  and  trunk,  top,  and 


406 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


nest  transported  to  Santos,  and  there  shipped  for  Philadelphia.  Its 
destiny,  after  it  arrived  at  the  City  of  Brotherly  Love,  was  to  be  the 
Academy  of  Natural  Sciences.  The  nests  would  also  be  sent,  Avith 
several  specimens  of  the  Iguash.  This  whole  project,  however, 
was  to  be  coupled  with  one  condition,  which  was  a  sine  qua  non;  i.e. 
the  Directors  of  the  said  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences  were  to  re- 
erect  the  palm-tree,  with  its  long  nest-adornments,  in  the  centre  or 
in  some  conspicuous  part  of  their  edifice;  for,  unless  this  was 
guaranteed,  the  doctor  added,  "  palm-tree,  birds,  and  all  would  soon 
be  consigned  to  oblivion."  It  was  a  grand  idea — and  I  doubt  if  it 
were  ever  befox^e  entertained  by  a  naturalist — to  transport  a  lofty 
nest-covered  tree  on  the  shoulders  of  men  for  more  than  two  hun- 
dred miles,  in  order  that  it  might  be  sent  thousands  of  leagues 
over  the  ocean  as  a  specimen  of  the  wonders  of  vegetation  and  of 
the  bird-architecture  of  this  Southern  Hemisphere. 

We  resumed  our  route,  and 
in  a  few  minutes  we  over- 
took old  Congo,  w^ho,  true  to 
his  word,  had  driven  and 
ridden  well,  and  had  got  over 
more  ground  in  forty-eight 
hours  than  he  had  on  any 
previous  occasion  in  five  days. 
We  emerged  from  the  forest- 
bordered  road,  and  saw  in  the 
distance  the  celebrated  plan- 
tation of  Senator  Yergueiro.   . 

Though  I  had  heard  more  of  this  establishment  than  of  any 
similar  one  in  Brazil,  it  did  not  fall  behind  my  anticipation. 
We  passed  through  the  great  gateway,  and  were  welcomed  by  the 
screams  of  a  flock  of  gay ly -pain ted  parrots,  which  were  at  times 
alighting,  and  at  times  w^hii-ling  around  the  tops  of  a  group  of  lofty 
trees.  Two  pairs  of  them  rested  upon  different  branches,  and 
seemed  to  be  in  amiable  confab  in  regard  to  the  newly-arrived. 
Between  Campinas  and  Limeira,  and  also  at  Ybecaba,  I  beheld  the 
loftiest  trees  that  I  met  with  in  any  portion  of  the  country.  Three 
noble  denizens  of  the  forest  have  been  left  not  far  from  the  resi- 
dence of  Senhor  Vorgueiro,  and  form  a  conspicuous  object  iu  the 


The  Fazexda  of  Ybecaba.  407 

landscape.  In  the  distance  could  be  seen  the  manor  and  the  chapel, 
and  on  either  side  of  them  various  out-buildings,  which  served  as 
shops,  store-rooms  for  coffee,  and  sheds  for  machiner3^  On  our 
left  were  neat  little  cottages  belonging  to  the  colonists.  The  pecu- 
liarity of  Ybecaba  consists  in  the  fact  that  free  labor  is  employed 
in  carrying  on  its  vast  operations;  and  those  whom  Senator  Yer- 
gueiro  and  his  sons  have  brought  to  displace  the  Africans  are  men 
of  the  working-classes  from  Germany  and  Switzerland.  With  en- 
larged views  and  true  economy,  we  shall  see  in  the  sequel  that 
the}^  have  adopted  that  plan  which  has  not  only  been  productive 
of  great  and  profitable  results  to  themselves,  but  that  they  have 
helped  to  elevate  and  greatly  benefit  the  condition  of  those  who 
were  in  narrow  circumstances  at  home.  The  Yergueiros  have 
solved  the  question,  so  often  asked,  "  AVhat  is  the  true  mode  for 
colonization  in  Brazil?" 

As  we  drew  near  the  mansion  we  saw  on  every  side  of  us  evi- 
dences of  thrift.  For  the  first  time  away  from  Eio  de  Janeiro  I 
saw  carts  whose  wheels  were  not  of  the  old  primitive  Eoman  kind, 
but  turned  upon  their  axles  like  civilized  cartwheels.  And  it  may 
be  mentioned  that  these,  and  all  the  agricultural  implements  and 
machinery,  are  manufactured  on  the  plantation.  When  subse- 
quently examining  the  workmanship  of  carpenters,  cabinet-makers, 
blacksmiths,  and  Avheelwrights,  fi-om  the  Cantons  de  Yaud  and 
Yalais,  and  from  interior  villages  of  Prussia,  I  perceived  that  not 
only  had  they  not  lost  their  skilfulness,  but  had  actually  gained 
under  the  supervision  of  their  enlightened  proprietors. 

Senhor  Luiz  Yergueiro  received  us  with  marked  attention. 
The  doctor  was,  of  course,  an  old  favorite;  but  Senhor  Y.  soon 
made  me  feel  at  home,  and  I  afterward  discovered  that  he  took  a 
deep  interest  in  my  visit  to  Brazil,  from  the  account  which  he  had 
read  in  the  Correio  Mercanfil  of  my  presentation,  at  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
of  the  various  specimens  of  American  arts  and  manufactures  to 
the  Emperor'  and  to  the  different  scientific  societies  of  the 
metropolis. 

Every  facility  was  given  me  for  full  investigation  of  the  books  of 
the  plantation  and  the  condition  of  the  colony,  which  enabled  me 
to  make  a  just  and  fair  comparison  between  this  sj'stem  of  coloni- 
zation and  those  of  Petropolis  and  Donna  Francisca,  and  also  to  see 


408  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

more  clearly  the  results  of  contrasted  free  and  slave  labor.  The 
whole  of  the  da^^  was  thus  occupied;  but,  before  detailing  any  ac- 
count of  that  examination,  it  will  be  best  to  give  a  more  full 
account  of  the  family  Vergueiro,  whose  venerable  head  has  been 
mentioned  scvei'al  times  in  previous  pages  of  this  work. 

Nicoldo  de  Pereira  de  Campos  Vergueiro  is  a  native  of  Portugal, 
and  of  noble  descent.  He  arrived  in  Brazil  before  the  King,  Dom 
John  VI.  By  profession  a  lawyer,  he  is  a  man  of  cultivated  and 
disciplined  mind.  He  early  settled  in  the  province  of  San  Paulo, 
and  took  a  conspicuous  part  in  the  political  affairs  of  the  country. 
From  the  very  commencement  of  agitations  for  extending  the 
rights  of  his  adopted  land,  he  stood  in  the  foremost  rank  of  patriots, 
shoulder  to  shoulder  with  the  Andradas,  Feijo,  and  others  eminent 
in  the  struggle  for  Brazilian  independence.  His  private  virtues,  his 
modei'ate  and  enlightened  views,  and  his  great  firmness,  made  him 
an  object  of  confidence  on  the  part  of  the  people.  He  was  deputed 
to  the  Cortes  of  Portugal,  having  for  his  colleagues  Jose  Bonifacio 
de  Andrada,  and  Feijo.  He  did  not,  however,  escape  to  England 
with  them  when  they  were  threatened  by  the  Cortes,  but  demanded, 
fearlessly  and  firmly,  his  passport,  and  succeeded  in  obtaining  it. 
He  returned  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  and  from  that  time  to  this  has  been 
a  leader  on  the  liberal  side  of  politics,  and  is  to-day  called  a 
Sa?ita  Lusia.  From  the  era  of  Brazilian  liberty  until  now,  he  has 
either  been  Deputy  or  Senator.  On  that  trying  night  when  the 
people  in  the  Campo  Santa  Anna  clamored  for  the  reinstatement 
of  the  Ministr}'^  dismissed  the  previous  day,  Dom  Pedro  I.,  before 
resorting  to  the  last  expedient  left  to  him  by  the  Constitution,  sent 
for  Vergueiro,  knowing  that  he  was  one  who  possessed  the  confi- 
dence of  the  populace,  to  desire  him  to  form  a  ministry  in  accord- 
ance with  their  wishes.  Vergueiro  was  not  found,  or  the  revolution 
would  have  either  been  sta^-ed  or  put  off  to  a  more  distant  period. 
He  has  been  repeatedly  Minister  of  the  Empire,  has  received 
emii.eat  places  from  the  people,  but  has  steadfastly  refused  all  title 
of  nobility,  and  every  honor  from  the  Imperial  Executive,  except 
the  Grand  Cross  of  Santa  Cruz. 

Before  leaving  for  Southern  Brazil,  I  called  upon  Senator  Ver- 
gueiro at  Rio  de  Janeiro.  He  was  at  that  time  present  in  the 
capital  during  the  session  of  the  Assemblea  Geral,  and  resided  in 


Senator  Vergueiro  and  Family.  409 

the  beautiful  suburb  of  Botafogo.  It  was  in  the  evening  that  I 
entered  his  residence,  and  was  received  by  his  daughters,  whom  I 
found  intelligent  and  possessing  one  accomplishment  so  often 
lacking  in  a  Brazilian  lady :  they  could  converse.  Not  many 
moments  elapsed  before  the  venerable  Senator  entered.  His  hair 
was  white,  and  his  form  was  bowed  under  the  weight  of  fourscore 
years;  yet  in  the  glance  of  his  eye  there  was  something  which  told 
that  the  soul  was  neither  slumbering  nor  decrepid.  His  smiling 
countenance  also  proclaimed  that  neither  the  burdens  of  age  nor 
of  past  and  pi'csent  public  and  private  service  had  affected  in  the 
least  degree  the  cheerfulness  of  his  nature.  Whether  conversing 
about  the  copies  of  the  sacred  truth,  or  of  my  contemplated  visit 
to  Ybecaba, — whether  addressing  a  playful  remark  to  his  family,  or 
a  word  of  information  to  me, — he  was  a  most  pleasant  picture  of  a 
hale  and  happy  old  man,  wnth  his  mental  powers  unimpaired,  and 
with  the  hopefulness  of  youth.  The  aged  statesman  stands  almost 
alone  in  the  Brazilian  Senate-Chamber;  for  the  patriotic  yet 
impetuous  Andradas  are  gone;  the  eloquent,  the  irresistible,  but 
unsafe  Vasconcellos  has  long  since  been  laid  in  the  tomb;  the  old 
Marquis  of  Valenga  has  recently  been  followed  to  his  "long  home;" 
a  new  generation  of  Brazilians  fill  their  places:  nevertheless, 
Nicolao  de  Pereira  de  Campos  Vergueiro  still  represents  an 
admiring  constituency,  no  longer,  as  in  stormier  times,  battling  for 
right,  but  as  the  advocate  of  every  measure  for  the  advancement 
of  his  beloved  country. 

Few  men  in  Brazil  have  been  blessed  with  such  sons;  few,  we 
may  add,  have  taken  such  pains  to  have  their  children  properly 
educated.  Co-operating  with  their  father,  they  have  presented  in 
their  colony  a  model  to  their  compatriots.  His  four  sons  were 
educated  in  Brazil,  Germany,  and  England.  The  oldest,  Senhor 
Luiz,  studied  law  at  the  University  of  Gottingen.  Senhor  Jose  (head 
of  the  Santos  house)  was  trained  in  the  military  school  of  Prussia, 
and  rose  to  the  position  of  first  lieutenant  of  the  thirty-seventh 
Prussian  jnfantry  during  the  troubles  between  Belgium  and 
Holland. 

The  third  son  (who  had  charge  of  the  Eio  house  of  Yergueiro  & 
Filhos)  was  educated  as  a  commercial  man  in  London  and  Ham- 
burg, and  the  yo anger  brother  had  a  thorough  mercantile  training 


410  Brazil  asb  the  Brazilians. 

in  the  same  ^;ities.  By  their  European  education  they  have  been 
enabled  to  carry  out  more  easily  the  plans  of  their  father  concern- 
ing emigration. 

In  1841,  Senhor  Yergueiro,  in  the  teeth  of  public  oj)inion,  sent 
to  Germany  for  forty  families  as  colonists;  but  the  General  Govern- 
ment was  so  opposed  to  the  old  Senator  during  the  troubles  of  1842, 
in  the  province  of  San  Paulo,  that  the  colony  was  broken  up.  In 
1846,  he  again  commenced  carrying  out  his  project;  and,  in  so 
doing,  he  has  been  completely  successful.  The  Government  itself 
through  official  organs,  has  commended  the  system  of  Vergueiro 
as  the  system  worthy  of  imitation. 

That  sj'stem  may  be  stated  in  few  words.  Sr.  Vergueiro  has  in 
Europe  an  agent  who  communicates  with  cantonal  and  communal 
authorities,  and  with  private  individuals,  offering  inducements  to 
the  able-bodied  poor  who  wish  to  emigrate  with  their  fomilies  to 
the  New  World.  The  emigrant,  at  his  option,  can  defray  his  own 
expenses  to  Brazil,  or,  permitting  Sr. Yergueiro  to  transport  him, 
he  (the  emigrant)  agrees  in  such  case  to  refund  at  his  own  time 
and  convenience  the  price  of  his  jjassage  at  a  small  rate  of  interest. 
The  agent  at  Hamburg  charters  a  vessel,  and  thus  a  large  number 
of  colonists  are  enabled  to  seek  a  new  home  at  a  very  moderate 
outlay. 

Sr.  Y.  guarantees  on  his  part  to  defray  all  the  expenses  of  the 
colonists  from  the  sea-coast  to  his  plantations,  and,  on  their  arrival 
at  their  final  destination,  to  furnish  each  head  of  a  family  with  a 
house,  so  many  thousand  coffee-trees,  propoi'tioned  to  the  number 
of  each  family,  and  to  supply  all  with  provisions,  articles  of 
clothing,  &c.  at  wholesale  prices.  The  colonist,  on  his  jjart,  agrees 
to  tend  faithfully  his  allotted  portion  of  coffee-trees,  to  share  the 
profits  and  expenses  of  the  crop,  and  not  to  leave  without  giving 
one  year's  notice  and  paying  his  indebtedness  (if  any  exist)  for 
passage-money  advanced. 

This  contract  is  very  simple,  and  is  a  safe  investment  for  both 
contracting  parties. 

During  the  j^ear  1854,  the  result  of  the  coffee-culture  on  the 
plantation  of  Ybecaba  was  one  million  six  hundred  thousand  pounds, 
of  which  one-half  of  the  expenses  and  profits  belong  to  the 
laborers. 


A  NftvEL  Bridge. 


411 


I  visited  the  cottages  of  the  colonists,  about  one  mile  from  the 
manor.  As  I  passed  along,  I  was  constantly  saluted  by  cheerful 
Swiss  and  German  workmen,  some  of  whom  were  surrounded  by 
noisy  and  joyous  fiiir-headed  children,  who  capered  about  with  as 
much  life  and  glee  as  if  at  the  foot  of  the  Hartz  or  in  the  valleys 
of  the  Oberland. 

Before  reaching  the  hamlet,  (of  which  I  present  a  sketch  drawn 
by  a  young  German  at  Ybecaba,)  I  crossed  a  small  stream  upon  a 


COLONIA     VERQUEI  RO. 


bridge  of  a  novel  and  cheap  construction,  which  in  its  simplicity 
commends  itself  to  every  settler  in  Australia  or  Western  America, 
where  proprietors  are  many  but  laborers  are  few.  It  may  be 
styled  a  "self-made"  bridge.  A  number  of  logs  are  fastened  longi- 
tudinally in  the  water,  leaving,  of  course,  spaces  between  them. 
On  the  top  of  these  are  thrown  large  branches,  and  then  finer 
brush;  and  on  the  surface  is  placed  a  certain  quantity  of  clay  and 


412  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

loose  earth.  A  portion  of  the  brook  higher  up  is  turned  aside  by  a 
ditch  through  the  light  soil,  and  conducted  over  the  log  and  brush- 
heap.  In  a  few  days  this  little  side-stream  has  borne  down  an 
immense  burden  of  red  soil  across  the  bridge,  and  has  rendered 
the  superstructure  as  firm  as  the  road,  while  beneath,  through 
branches  and  logs,  the  "river  runs  merrily  by."  The  ditch,  the 
water  through  it  having  finished  its  work,  is  closed,  and  a  solid 
passage-way  is  thus  obtained.* 

At  the  hamlet  I  found  an  intelligent  head-agent,  who  kept  the 
books  of  the  colonists,  and  gave  to  the  latter  oi'ders  for  every  pound 
of  bacon,  yard  of  cloth,  &c.  Without  his  signature  they  could  not 
obtain  these  articles  at  the  manor  storehouse. 

The  larger  portion  of  the  colonists  were  Roman  Catholics;  but 
I  did  not  leave  before  every  opportunity  was  afforded  for  their 
obtaining  the  Scriptures,  both  in  Portuguese  and  German. 

Some  of  the  colonists  have  thriven  remarkably,  having  in  five 
years'  time  gained  five  and  seven  thousand  milreis,  ($2500  and 
$3500.)  The  state  of  morals  was  certainly  most  creditable  when 
comparing  it  with  that  of  the  countries  whence  they  came.  From 
1847  to  '55,  (the  period  of  ray  visit,)  among  several  hundred 
laborers  of  the  humblest  classes  of  German  and  Swiss,  not  an 
illegitimate  child  had  been  born.  The  Vergueiros  encourage  the 
marriage-institution  as  not  only  essential  to  purity,  but  for  the 
interest  of  both  planter  and  colonist.  There  are  now  about  one 
thousand  European  workmen,  including  children. 

Ybecaba  is  a  small  plantation,  containing  but  five  or  six  square 
miles;  but  near  by  the  V.s  possess  afaze?ida  not  so  well  cultivated, 
but  thi-ee  times  as  large.  At  Angelica  they  own  a  new  plantation, 
well  adapted  to  the  culture  of  coffee,  which  is  twelve  leagues  in 
circumference.  Hitherto  blacks  have  been  employed  upon  this 
large  estate;  but  it  is  the  intention  of  the  proprietor  to  introduce, 


*  In  some  of  tbe  mining-districts  there  is  a  simple  and  philosophical  mode  of 
splitting  off  the  side  of  clayey  mountains.  Wells  are  dug  into  them,  and,  during 
the  heavy  rains,  these,  by  means  of  gutters,  become  filled  with  water.  The  hydro- 
static pressure  of  the  liquid  columns  forces  off  masses  from  the  facts  of  mountains 
which  would  require  hundreds  of  men  for  months  to  accomplish  with  the  mattock 
and  shovel. 


Condition  of  the  Brazilian  Colonies.  413 

as  soon  as  possible,  free  white  laborers.  I  deraanded  of  Sr.  Luiz 
Vergueiro  if  it  were  mere  philanthropy  which  prompted  their 
efforts  to  introduce  free  labor:  he  replied,  most  promptly  and  de- 
cidedlj',  "  We  find  the  labor  of  a  man  who  has  a  will  of  his  own, 
and  interests  at  stake,  vastly  more  profitable  than  slave-labor." 

I  could  not  but  contrast  the  happy  and  cheerful  condition  of 
these  colonists  with  the  discouraged  residents  in  the  colony  Donna 
Francisca.  Though  the  Germans  of  Petropolis  have  every  advantage 
of  a  nearness  to  market,  and  a  growing  city  which  has  many  wants 
to  be  supplied,  yet  the  condition  of  the  colonists  at  Ybecaba  is 
infinitely  superior  if  we  consider  the  prosperity  of  the  individual. 
The  settlement  at  Leopoldina  in  Eio  Grande  do  Sul  has  been  the 
only  truly  successful  Imperial  colony,  that  of  Petropolis  being  under 
the  Governo  Provincial.  By  the  report  of  the  Minister  of  the  Em- 
pire for  1854-55,  I  ascei-tain  that,  out  of  seventeen  colonies  founded 
by  the  Imperial  Government  and  by  the  provincial  authorities, 
only  four  can  be  called  prosperous;  and  of  but  two  can  it  be  said, 
" muito.prospera."  The  remainder  are  placed  under  the  heads  "not 
prosperous,"  "confounded  with  the  population,"  "in  decay,"  or 
"no  information  of  its  condition."  Of  the  twenty-four  private 
efforts  at  colonization,  twenty-one  are  reported  prosperous,  nearly 
all  of  which  have  been  founded  since  1852,  and  more  or  less  on  the 
Vergueii'o  system.  These  colonies  are  in  five  provinces,  and  the 
excellence  of  the  "plan-Vergueiro"  consists  in  this, — viz.:  its  ap- 
plicability throughout  the  Empire  on  a  great  or  small  scale.  Nine 
of  the  twenty-one  senhors  have  each  less  than  one  hundred  and 
twenty  colonists,  thus  enabling  the  small  proprietors  to  have,  to  a 
certain  extent,  the  advantages  of  the  larger  landholders.  Slavery 
(since  the  vigorous  measures  of  1850  were  adopted  against  the 
slave-trade)  has  been  doomed  in  Brazil.  The  Emperor  and  his 
Government  are  against  this  inhuman  traffic,  and  the  popular  voice 
sustains  them.  The  comparative  ease  with  which  a  slave  may 
obtain  his  freedom,  and,  by  the  possession  of  property,  the  rights 
of  citizenship,  will  probably  in  twenty  years  put  an  end  to  servi- 
tude in  this  South  American  Empire.  There  must  then  be  a  supply 
of  laborers  from  some  other  source  than  Africa.  The  mother- 
country,  the  Portuguese  islands,  Germany,  and  Switzerland  will 
furnish  that  supply.    Individual  emigration  as  it  exists  from  Europe 


414  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

to  the  tTnited  States  can  never  succeed  in  Brazil  on  a  large  scale, 
owing  to  the  peculiar  structure  of  the  Government;  but  the  system 
inaugurated  by  Sr.  Vcrgueiro  &  Sons  is  capable  of  indefinite  exten- 
sion, while  it  protects  the  interests  of  both  employer  and  em- 
ployee. Though  there  may  be  individual  instances  of  oppression 
under  a  powerful  and  unjust  proprietor,  yet,  as  a  whole,  this  plan 
will  in  the  end  prove  a  great  blessing  to  Brazil  and  to  the  poorer 
classes  of  Europe.  Already  the  Swabian,  the  Fribourgeois,  the 
Yaudois,  the  Valaisan,  the  Portuguese,  and  the  Ilheo,  look  up  like 
men  in  their  new  homes:  they  have  no  longer  that  ajipearance — 
too  common  in  their  native  districts — of  the  crushed  and  cringing 
peasant  who  has  no  thought  beyond  the  pinching  want  of  to-day. 
As  we  look  upon  their  joyous  ftices,  we  can  readily  believe  what 
Sr.  Jose  Vergueiro  said  to  me  at  Santos: — "They  breathe  here  the 
air  of  freedom,  sir, —  such  as  they  never  snuflPed  in  their  native 
land." 

Under  such  a  system,  they  have  not  the  pressing  cares  of  the 
pioneer;  they  are  not  the  victims  of  speculating  land-companies, 
and,  at  the  same  time,  though  enjoying  comparative  ease,  their 
own  interest  keeps  them  from  indolence.  At  a  year's  notice,  when 
they  have  learned,  under  the  tuition  and  protection  of  a  powerful 
Brazilian,  the  cultivation  of  tropical  productions,  they  can  leave 
and  "  set  up"  for  themselves  if  they  choose.  They  can  easily 
become  naturalized;  their  children  grow  up  as  citizens  attached 
to  the  soil;  and,  if  nothing  untoward  occurs,  Brazil,  in  half  a 
century,  will  have  a  host  of  small  proprietors  infusing  a  new  life- 
blood  into  the  body  politic.  Under  her  mild  Government  there 
will  spring  up  a  more  hardy  peojile,  who  will  be  the  subduers  of 
the  virgin  forests  and  the  pioneers  in  the  vast,  fertile,  healthy, 
but  almost  unexplored  regions  of  Parana,  Goyaz,  Mato  Grosso,  and 
Minas-Geraes,  where  the  head-waters  of  the  Amazon  and  the  La 
Plata  are  interlaced  ot  separated  by  a  narrow  dividing-ridge. 

To  the  speedy  and  sure  accomj)lishment  of  this  desired  consum- 
mation, Brazil  should  still  more  modify  her  laws,  so  that  there  may 
be  every  facility  for  the  introduction  of  colonists.  Already  the 
Empire  has  done  away  with  some  of  the  most  objectionable  fea- 
tures; but  much  remains  to  be  done.  Every  obstacle  should  be 
removed,  and  the  Government,  by  a  general  act,  should  proclaim 


Hopes  for  the  Future.  415 

its  policy  as  liberal  in  all  the  initiatoiy  steps  for  the  newlj  arrived 
as  it  is  generous  in  regard  to  the  holding  of  property  by  foreigners. 
Such  measures  would  promote  immigration,  and  in  time  a  new 
population  would  grow  up  in  this  beautiful  country,  worth}-  of  its 
vast  resources.  Let  a  pure  gospel  be  in  the  hearts  of  such  a 
people,  and  Brazil,  in  the  futui-e,  will  be  a  land  in  every  respect 
unsurpassed  on  the  face  ol  the  earth. 

Sr.  Yergueiro  and  his  sons  are  making  constant  improvements  in 
modes  of  cultivation,  and  are  studying  the  best  manner  of  applying 
Northern  labor  and  skill  to  tropical  agriculture.  I  before  men- 
tioned the  workshops  of  the  mechanics,  where  agricultural  imple- 
ments in  wood  and  iron  are  turned  out  in  a  style  equal  to  any 
thing  of  the  kind  made  in  Europe  or  North  America.  Among  the 
various  machines  for  facilitating  the  preparation  of  coffee  for 
market  was  one — the  invention  of  Senator  Vergueiro — which 
cleans  no  less  than  thirty-two  thousand  pounds  of  coffee  jjer 
diem. 

We  had  been  kindly  invited  to  dine  at  the  mansion-house,  and  it 
is  unnecessary  that  I  should  particularize  the  component  parts  of 
a  most  sumptuous  dinner.  Suffice  it  to  say  that  the  ''fat  of  the 
land"  was  there  in  profusion,  and  that  the  "feast  of  reason,"  &c. 

was  well  supplied  by  Sr.  Luiz  V.,  Dr. ,  and  the   intelligent 

padre,  who  conversed  fluently  in  both  French  and  German. 

The  doctor  and  myself  left  Ybecaba  at  a  late  hour,  and,  after  a 
pleasant  ride  by  moonlight,  reached  Limeira. 

Note  for  1SG6. — Senator  Vergueiro  died  in  1860.  On  account  of  financial  and 
other  difiSculties,  it  is  said  that  Ybecaba,  though  still  kept  up,  is  not  in  so 
flourishing  a  condition  as  formerly.  The  conclusion  of  the  long  intestine  struggle 
in  the  United  States  has  caused  many  Southern  planters  to  look  to  Brazil.  The 
Imperial  Government,  as  has  been  mentioned,  is  determined  to  receive  them  on 
most  liberal  terms;  and  "colonization,"  which  it  must  be  confessed  has  not  ful- 
filled the  expectation  of  its  friends,  will  give  place  to  "immigration,"  which  has 
done  so  much  for  the  United  States,  and,  if  the  Government  of  Brazil  will  only  be 
liberal  and  will  fulfil  its  promises,  viz.,  to  sell  land  at  a  fair  rate  and  cut  the  red 
tape  of  public  offices  and  petty  fiscaes  and  subdelegados,  (interior  supervisors  and 
justices  of  the  peace,)  a  population  will  be  introduced  which  will  add  a  thousand- 
fold to  the  well-being  and  honor  of  the  Empire. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

A    NEW    DISEASE THE     CULTURE    OF    CHINESE    TEA    IN     BRAZIL MODUS    OPEBAXDI 

THE  DECEIVED  CUSTOM-HOUSE    OFFICIALS PROBABLE    EXTENSION  OF  TEA-CULTUHB 

IN    SOUTH    AMERICA HOMEWARD    BOUND MY    COMPANION SENHOR    JOs£    AND    A 

LITTLE    DIFFICULTY     WITH     HIM CALIFORNIA    AND    THE    MUSICAL    INNKEEPER 

EARLY    START    AND     THE     STAR-SPANGLED    BANNER THE    SENHORES    BROTERO    OF 

S.   PAULO FOURTH    OF    JULY     INAUGURATED     IN     AN     ENGLISH     FAMILY "YANKEE 

doodle"    on     THE     PLAINS     OF    YPIRANGA LAME    AND     IMPOTENT    CONCLUSION 

ASTRONOMY    UNDER    DIFFICULTIES DELIVERANCE RETURN    TO    RIO    DE    JANEIRO. 

The  next  day  after  my  visit  to  Ybecaba,  I  was  employed  in 

obtaining  such  information  from  Dr. as  one  would  be  sure  to 

find  in  a  man  of  intelligence  and  observation  who  had  long  resided 
in  the  country.  I  made  many  inquiries  in  regard  to  the  various 
diseases  of  Brazil,  and  the  remarks  of  this  experienced  physician 
confirmed  my  own  oft-repeated  ojjinion  that  few  portions  of  the 
world  could  boast  of  so  great  a  salubrity  as  this  Empire. 

Probably  no  tropical  country  has  been  so  exempt  from  a  general 
disease  as  Brazil.  It  has  only  been  within  the  last  five  years  that 
the  yellow  fever  invaded  these  healthy  realms,  and  not  until  1855 
has  that  dreadful  scourge,  the  cholera,  touched  these  shores.  The 
ravages  of  these  two  devouring  pestilences — both  of  which  were 
confined  to  a  narrow  belt  of  the  sea-coast — have  been  greatly  over- 
estimated. During  the  prevalence  of  the  cholera  in  the  vicinity 
of  Bahia,  I  was  in  that  city  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand 
inhabitants.  I  have  seen  it  gravely  stated  in  American  and  Eng- 
lish journals  that  so  great  was  the  mortality  and  the  panic  there 
that  there  were  not  enough  people  left  to  bury  the  dead !  JSTow, 
if  the  perpetrators  of  this  horrible  fiction  had  given  the  truth, 
they  would  have  described  a  great  deal  of  sickness  among  the 
blacks  and  much  panic  among  the  whites;  that,  oiit  of  a  provincial 

population  of  nearly  a  million,  9,490  died  from  all  diseases  in  the 
416 


A  l^EW  Disease.  417 

political  year  1855-6,  the  majority  of  cases  being  cholera,  but  that 
business  went  on  as  usual.  I  was  in  Eio  de  Janeiro  during  several 
yellow-fever  seasons,  and  though — from  personal  knowledge,  by 
visiting  the  hospitals  and  examining  the  list  of  the  deceased — I 
ascertained  that  a  truly  large  proportion  of  the  foreigners  in  the 
city  did  fall  before  the  terrific  disease,  yet,  as  a  general  thing, 
there  were  about  as  many  natives  that  died  of  consumption  each 
day  as  of  the  yellow  fever. 

Though  no  general  pestilence  has  swept  through  the  land,  j^et 
there  are  peculiar  diseases  in  different  parts  of  the  Empire.  In 
some  of  the  mountainous  districts  there  exists  the  same  swelling 
of  the  throat  and  neck  which  is  known  in  Switzerland  as  goiire. 
•The  Brazilians  call  it  papos;  and  Von  Martins  saj'S  that  he  found 
in  the  valley  of  the  Parahiba  Eiver  instances  of  this  swelling  larger 
than  are  seen  in  Europe,  but  not  accompanied  with  the  melancholy 
and  idiotic  appearance  so  often  combined  with  the  goitre  in  Switzer- 
land, Germany,  and  Northern  Italy. 

At  Limeira  I  became  aware  of  a  new  disease,  which,  like  the 
goitre,  seems  to  be  confined  to  certain  localities.     I  was  sitting  in 

the  office  of  Dr.  ,  conversing  with  him  in  regard  to  Brazil, 

when  I  observed  a  Portuguese,  about  sixty  years  of  age,  enter,  and 
demand,  with  great  earnestness,  if  he  thought  that  he  could  live. 
Soon  after,  a  middle-aged  Bi^azilian  came,  and,  seeming  to  cling  to 
the  words  of  the  physician  as  tenaciously  as  to  a  divine  oracle, 
made  nearly  the  same  interrogatory.  Neither  of  these  men  ap- 
peared in  ill  health,  and,  if  I  had  not  heard  them  state  that  they 
had  great  difficulty  in  swallowing,  I  would  have  considered  them 
in  a  perfect  sanitary  condition.  Upon  inquirj^,  I  ascertained  from 
the  doctor  that  these  men  had  a  disease  which  is  widely  i)i*evalent 
in  some  portions  of  Interior  Brazil,  but  he  has  never  seen  a  notice 
of  it  in  any  medical  work  whatever.  The  Brazilians  call  it  mal 
de  engasgo.  The  first  indication  of  its  existence  is  a  difficulty  in 
swallowing.  The  patient  can  swallow  dry  substances  better  than 
fluids.  Wine  or  milk  can  be  drunken  with  more  facility  than 
water;  still,  both  are  attended  with  difficulty.  To  take  thin  broth 
is  an  impossibility^.  In  some  cases  fluids  have  been  conveyed  to 
the  stomach  in  connection  with  some  solid.  The  person  thus 
aifected  appears  to  be  in  good  health,  but  in  five  or  six  years  death 

27 


418  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

ensues  from  actual  starvation.  The  sufferings  of  such  a  one  was 
described  to  m-e  as  most  horrible. 

Some  phj'sicians  in  the  province  of  San  Paulo  think  it  a  paralysis 

of  the  oesophagus;  but  Dr. ,  who  has  seen  many  cases  of  mal  de 

engasgo,  inclines  to  the  belief  that  it  is  a  thickening  of  the  mucous 
membi-ane.  As  the  oesoi^hagus  is  in  general  the  least  affected  by 
disease  of  any  part  of  the  body,  and  is  very  rarely  paralyzed,  he 
cannot  believe  that  so  wide-spread  a  disease  as  the  mal  de  engasgo 
can  proceed  from  paralysis.  Living  as  he  does  in  the  interior,  it 
is  difficult  to  obtain  a  subject  for  dissection,  or  permission  to  make 
a  post-mortem  examination,  and  therefore  he  has  had  no  oppor- 
tunity for  a  thorough  investigation  of  the  disease;  but  it  is  his 
intention  to  do  so  as  soon  as  facilities  present  themselves,  and  then 
to  lay  the  result  before  the  medical  world.  He  informed  me  that 
he  was  called  to  visit  a  man  suffering  from  this  malady  eighty 
miles  from  Limeira,  and  to  his  astonishment  he  found  in  the  same 
room  no  less  than  nine  persons  similarly  affected.  As  yet  no 
remedy  has  been  found.  The  full  extent  of  country  over  which 
the  mal  de  engasgo  prevails  is  not  known ;  but  to  this  physician's 
certain  knowledge  it  exists  from  Limeira  (two  hundred  miles  from 
the  sea-coast)  to  Goyaz, — a  distance  of  four  hundred  miles.  It  is 
not  found  upon  the  coast;  and  a  journey  to  the  sea-board  always 
benefits  the  afflicted  patient.  In  1855  I  communicated  the  above 
facts  in  regard  to  the  inal  de  engasgo  to  the  New  York  "Journal 
of  Commerce."  A  few  days  after  its  publication,  a  physician  of 
Brooklyn  suggested,  in  the  columns  of  the  same  journal,  that 
there  might  be  erysipelas  at  the  bottom  of  the  disease.  He  gave 
as  an  instance  one  of  his  own  patients  who  suffered  from  symp- 
toms like  those  described,  and  which  finally  resulted  in  the 
discovery  of  erysipelas.  I  know  that  one  case  of  similarity  in  a 
disease  does  not  prove  a  general  rule  :  still,  the  subject  is  worthy 
of  investigation. 

One  topic  of  our  conversation  possesses  a  far  more  general  in- 
terest than  the  nature  of  a  new  disease :  it  was  the  cultivation 
of  the  Chinese  tea  in  Brazil. 

There  is  probably  no  other  country  where  the  culture  of  this 
Asiatic  shrub  has  been  so  successful  away  fi'om  its  native  region. 
The  Portuguese  language  is  the  only  European  tongue  wliich  has 


The  Culture  of  Chinese  Tea.  419 

preserv-ed  the  Chinese  name  {cha)  for  tea;  and  as  the  stranger  at 
Kio  de  Janeiro  and  other  towns  of  the  Empire  passes  the  vendas, 
he  is  always  sure  to  see  a  printed  card  suspended,  announcing  Cha 
da  India  and  Cha  National:  the  former  is  the  designation  given  to 
tea  from  China,  and  the  latter  to  the  same  production  grown  in 
Brazil. 

In  1810,  the  first  plants  of  this  exotic  were  introduced  at  Eio  de 
Janeiro,  and  its  cultivation  for  a  time  was  chietlj  confined  to  the 
Botanical  Garden  near  the  capital  and  to  the  royal  farm  at  Santa 
Cruz.  In  order  to  secure  the  best  possible  treatment  for  the  tea, 
which  it  was  anticipated  would  soon  flourish  so  as  to  supply  the 
European  market,  the  Count  of  Linhares,  Prime  Minister  of  Por- 
tugal, procured  the  immigration  of  several  hundred  colonists,  not 
from  the  mingled  population  of  the  coast  of  China,  but  from  the 
interior  of  the  Celestial  Empire, — persons  acquainted  with  the 
whole  process  of  training  the  tea-plant  and  of  preparing  tea. 

This  was  probably  the  first  colony  from  Asia  that  ever  settled  in 
the  New  AVorld,  of  which  we  have  authentic  records.  The  colonists, 
however,  were  not  contented  with  their  expatriation :  they  did  not 
prosper,  and  they  have  now  disappeared.  Owing  in  part,  doubt- 
less, to  characteristic  differences  in  the  soil  of  Brazil  from  that  of 
China,  and  perhaps  as  much  to  imperfect  means  of  preparing  the 
leaf  when  grown,  the  Chinese  themselves  did  not  succeed  in  pro- 
ducing the  most  approved  specimens  of  tea.  The  enthusiasm  of 
anticipation,  being  unsustained  by  experiment,  soon  died  away; 
and  near  the  city  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  the  cultivation  of  tea  has 
dwindled  down  to  be  little  more  than  an  exotic  grown  on  a  large 
scale  at  the  Botanical  Gardens. 

As  a  Government  matter  it  was  a  failure;  but  several  Paulista 
planters  took  up  the  culture,  and,  though  they  encountered  years 
of  discouragement,  they  have  lived  to  see  it,  though  as  yet  in  its 
infancy,  one  of  the  most  flourishing  and  remunerative  branches  of 
Brazilian  agriculture.  * 

Between  Santos  and  San  Paulo,  near  San  Bernardo,  I  saw  large 
and  productive  tea-plantations.  The  manner  of  its  culture  differs 
but  little  from  that  adopted  in  China.  Tea  is  raised  from  the  seed, 
which,  being  preserved  in  brown  sugar,  can  be  transported  to  any 
portion  of  the  country.     These  little  tea-balls  are  planted  in  oeds, 


i20  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

and  then,  in  the  manner  of  cabbage-plants,  are  transported  to  the 
field  and  placed  five  feet  aj)art.  The  shrubs  are  kept  very  clean 
by  the  hoe,  or  by  the  plough,  which,  though  a  recent  introduc- 
tion, has  on  some  plantations  been  eminently  successful  for  this 
purpose. 

The  shrubs  are  never  allowed  to  attain  a  height  of  more  than 
four  feet;  and  the  leaves  are  considered  ready  for  picking  the 
third  year  after  j)lanting.  The  culture,  the  gathering,  and  the 
preparation  of  tea  are  not  difficult,  and  childi'en  are  profitably 
and  efficiently  employed  in  the  various  modes  of  arranging  it  for 
market.  The  apj^aratus  used  is  very  simple,  consisting  of — 1. 
Baskets, in  which  the  leaves  are  deposited  when  collected;  2.  Carved 
framework,  on  which  the}'  are  rolled,  one  by  one;  3.  Open  ovens, 
or  large  metallic  pans,  in  which  the  tea  is  dried  by  means  of  a  fire 
beneath.  Women  and  children  gather  the  leaves  and  carry  them 
to  the  ovens,  where  slave-men  are  engaged  in  keeping  up  the  fire, 
stirring,  squeezing,  and  rolling  the  tea, — which  operations  are  all 
that  it  requires  before  packing  it  in  boxes  for  home-sale  or  for  ex- 
portation to  the  neighboring  provinces. 

The  tea-plant  is  a  hardy  shrub,  and  can  be  cultivated  in  almost 
any  portion  of  Brazil,  though  it  is  perhaps  better  adapted  to  the 
South,  where  frosts  jjrevail,  and  which  it  resists.  If  left  to  itself  in 
the  tropics,  it  will  soon  run  up  to  a  tree.  The  coifee-tree  requires 
rich  and  new  soil,  and-4i  warm  climate  unknown  to  frosts;  but  the 

tea-i)lant  will  flourish  in  any  soil.     Dr. ,  who  visited  various 

portions  of  China,  is  of  the  opinion  that  the  cha  can  be  grown  in 
any  part  of  the  United  States  from  Pennsylvania  to  the  Mexican 
Gulf  There  are  not  many  varieties  of  the  plant,  as  is  often  sup- 
posed, black  and  green  teas  being  merely  the  leaves  of  the  same 
tree  obtained  at  different  seasons  of  the  year.  The  flavor  is  some- 
times varied,  as  that  of  wines  from  the  same  species  of  grape  grown 
on  different  soils.  The  plant  is  not  deciduous,  as  in  China,  and  in 
Brazil  is  gathered  from  March  to  July,  which  in  the  Northern 
hemisphere  would  correspond  to  the  interval  between  September 
and  January. 

I  was  informed  that  several  million  pounds  are  now  annually 
prepared  in  the  provinces  of  San  Paulo  and  Minas-Geraes,  and  its 
culture  is  on  the  increase. 


The  Deceived  Custom-House  Officials.  421 

Some  years  ago  the  tea-planters  were  greatly  discouraged;  for 
the  cha  was  badly  prepared,  was  sold  too  new,  and  hence  the  de- 
mand did  not  increase.  But,  since  a  greater  expeinence  in  its  cul- 
ture and  preparation,  a  better  article  for  this  favorite  beverage 
has  met  with  corresponding  encouragement.  Formerly  the  culti- 
vators said  that,  if  they  could  obtain  sixteen  cents  per  pound 
wholesale,  it  would  be  as  remunerative  as  coffee.  In  1855,  twenty 
cents  for  the  poorer  article  could  be  obtained;  and  for  superior 
qualities — the  greater  portion  of  the  crop — forty  cents  per  pound 
wholesale  was  readily  commanded.  The  demand  for  it  is  constantly 
increasing.  When  rightly  prepared,  it  is  not  inferior  to  that  im- 
ported from  China.  Much,  indeed,  of  the  tea  sold  in  the  province 
of  San  Paulo  as  cha  da  India  has  merely  made  the  sea-voyage  from 
Santos  to  Eio  de  Janeiro,  and  there,  after  being  packed  in  Chinese 
boxes,  is  sent  back  to  the  Paulistas  as  the  genuine  aromatic  leaf 
from  the  Celestial  Empire.  I  have  seen  foreigners  in  Brazil  who 
esteemed  themselves  connoisseurs  in  tea  deceived  by  the  best  cha 
nagional. 

A  few  years  ago,  Mr.  John  Rudge,  of  the  province  of  San  Paulo, 
sent  some  tea  from  his  plantation  as  a  present  to  his  relatives  in 
Eio  de  Janeiro.  This  was  prepared  very  nicely,  each  separate  leaf 
having  been  rolled  by  the  slaves  between  the  thumb  and  forefinger 
until  it  looked  like  small  shot.  It  was  thus  invested  with  a  foreign 
appearance,  packed  in  small  Chinese  tea-caddies,  and  shipped  at 
Santos  for  the  capital.  When  the  caddies  arrived,  they  were  seized 
at  the  custom-house  as  an  attempt  to  defraud  the  revenue.  It  was 
on  the  other  hand  insisted  that  the  boxes  contained  cha  national, 
although,  by  some  neglect,  they  did  not  appear  upon  the  manifest. 
The  parties  to  whom  the  tea  had  been  sent  offered  to  have  it  sub- 
mitted to  inspection.  The  caddies  were  opened,  and  the  custom- 
house officials  screamed  with  triumph,  adding  to  their  former  sus- 
picions the  evidence  of  their  senses,  for  the  sight,  the  taste,  the 
smell  of  the  nicely-prepared  tea  proclaimed  emphatically  that  it 
was  cha  da  India,  and  that  this  was  an  attempt  to  defraud  His 
Imperial  Majesty's  customs.  It  was  not  until  letters  were  sent 
to  Santos,  and  in  reply  the  certificates  of  that  provincial  custom- 
house had  been  received,  that  the  collectors  at  Eio  were  satisfied 
that  there  was  no  fraud,  and  that   the  province  of  San  Paulo 


4:22  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

could  produce  as  good  tea  as  that  brought  arour.d  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope. 

A  few  years  may  suffice  to  show  on  the  pages  of  the  "Commerce 
and  Navio-ation"  of  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  that  tea 

o 

enters  hirgely  into  tlie  articles  of  importation  from  Brazil.  Fifty 
years  only  have  elapsed  since  the  first  cargo  of  coffee  was  shipped 
from  Eio  dc  Janeiro,  and  now  Brazil  supplies  two-thirds  of  the  coffee 
of  the  world.  ■  The  revolution  in  Hayti  was  the  commencement  of 
a  new  era  for  the  cofiee  of  Brazil. 

In  1846,  Dr. learned  that  several  planters  were  about  to 

root  up  their  tea-shrubs.  He  besought  them  not  to  carry  out  their 
intention  J  ''for,"  said  he,  "there  is  to  be  a  great  revolution  in 
China,  [in  1845  he  had  been  informed  in  the  Celestial  Empire  of  the 
existence  of  the  Triad  Society,]  and  the  price  of  teas  will  be  sure  to 
go  up  in  a  few  years."  The  disheartened  planters  were  encouraged 
to  go  on;  and,  only  a  short  time  before  my  visit  to  Limeii-a,  one  of 

these  fazendeiros  sent  to  Dr. several  pounds  of  most  excellent 

tea,  at  the  same  time  assuring  him  (the  doctor)  of  his  deep  grati- 
tude for  having  been  prevented  from  the  destruction  of  his  planta- 
tion. He  had  found  it  exceedingly  remunerative,  and  next  year 
he  intended  to  enter  into  more  extensive  operations. 

Throughout  the  world  the  use  of  tea  is  becoming  as  universal  as 
that  of  coffee,  and  any  continued  disturbance  in  China  must  bring 
into  prominent  notice  the  tea-culture  of  Bi*azil.  The  recolte  is  now 
almost  entirely  used  within  the  Empire;  but  the  adaptability  of  the 
culture  to  almost  any  portion  of  the  immense  territory,  and  the 
ease  by  which  it  can  be  carried  on,  will  doubtless,  in  a  very  brief 
period  of  time,  fully  develop  this  new  source  of  national  wealth. 

It  was  on  the  morning  of  the  2d  of  July  that  I  set  out  on  my 
departure  from  Limeira.  I  shall  never  forget  the  kindness  and 
attention  of  my  generous  host,  as  well  as  the  welcome  reception  at 
the  model  plantation  of  Senator  Vergueiro.  The  few  days  spent 
there  so  pleasantly  gave  me  fresh  hopes  and  great  encouragement 
for  the  future  of  Brazil.* 


*  At  Limeira  I  met  a  German  engineer,  who,  with  his  accomplished  Hamburgese 
wife,  (to  whom  I  am  indebted  for  the  sketches  of  the  bridge  at  Cubitao  and  the 
German  colonist's  house)  forms  an  agreeable  society  i<  r  Dr. . 


Homeward  Bound.  423 

The  moon  was  shining  brightly  as  I  bade  farewell  to  the  two 
Americans  and  turned  my  face,  for  the  first  time  in  months,  home- 
ward. I  rode  on  in  silence  for  half  an  hour,  and  was  then  over- 
taken by  a  "lone  horseman"  going  in  the  direction  of  Camjiinas. 
We  journeyed  together,  and  at  noon  we  halted  near  a  clear,  purling 
brook,  and  beneath  the  shade,  of  lofty,  overarching  trees  we 
shared  a  palatable  dish  of  farinha  de  milho  and  fried  chicken,  which 
tl  e  good  mulher  of  the  Paulista  had  thoughtfully  provided  for  his 
journej'.  I  have  often  had  occasion  to  speak  of  the  kindness  mani- 
fested by  Brazilians  of  all  classes  toward  strangers.  The  casual 
visitor  to  Bi-azil  may,  in  the  coast-cities,  come  in  contact  with, 
shopkeeping  Portuguese,  whose  fleecing  propensities  are  not  ex- 
celled b}'  their  brethren  in  London,  Paris,  or  New  Yoi-k;  and 
hence  he  may  grandly  generalize,  in  writing  home  to  some  obscure 
journal,  that  the  Brazilians  are  the  greatest  set  of  rascals  in  the 
world. 

My  travelling-companion  was  a  carpenter,  but  was  an  adept  in 
other  crafts.  My  horse  having  cast  two  of  his  shoes,  we  turned  to 
a  road-side  venda  and  purchased  the  necessary  articles,  which  Sr. 
Tomaso  attached  with  all  the  skill  of  a  practised  blacksmith. 

We  arrived  at  Camjsinas  at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  I  rode 
immediately  to  a  hospederia ;  but  the  innkeeper  seemed  so  perfectly 
indifferent  as  to  custom  that  I  bade  him  good-da}',  and  sought  the 
house  of  an  English  daguerreotypist,  to  whom  I  had  letters.  I 
had  there  a  warm  welcome,  and  the  remainder  of  daylight  was 
spent  in  rambling  through  this  mud  built  city  in  company  with  my 

host  and  an  Italian  physician  to  whom  Dr. of  Limeira  had 

given  me  a  note  of  introduction.  I  found  much  to  interest  me  in 
the  vast  cathedral,  built  wholly  of  taipa:  the  carved  woodwork 
(reminding  one  of  old  European  cloisters)  was  by  some  mulatto 
sculptors  from  Bahia,  and  w^ould  have  done  credit  to  the  best 
Italian  artists  in  that  line.  The  physician,  who  was  a  fierce  Mal- 
thusian,  entertained  me  with  long-winded  speeches  in  suj^port  of 
his  favorite  ideas,  until  I  finally  obtained  a  respite  by  leading  him 
on  to  some  wonderful  snake-stories,  which,  though  equalling  in 
length  (the  stories,  not  the  snakes)  his  Malthusian  arguments,  were 
far  more  interesting. 

I  made  arrano-ements  at  the  house  of  a  mule-dealer  for  an  extra 


424  Brazil  and  the  Braziliaxs. 

animal,  which  was  to  cany  me  forward  on  the  morrow,  as  my 
Eosinante  gave  evidence  of  exhaustion.  My  newly-engaged  quad- 
ruped was  to  be  forthcoming,  together  with  a  guide,  at  sunrise. 
The  sunrise  came,  and  two  succeeding  hours;  but  neither  biped 
nor  quadruped  appeai*ed.  Finally,  when  almost  in  despair,  the 
long-expected  pair  clattered  up  to  the  door.  The  usual  apologies 
of  "mules  in  pasture,"  "diflScult  to  catch,"  &c.,  were  offered  and 
accej)ted.  I  Boon  perceived  that  my  guide,  instead  of  being  a  mere 
employee,  was  the  son  of  the  proprietor  of  the  animals  which  we 
bestrode, — that  he  was  not  simply  Jose,  but  Scnhor  Jose, — and  that 
he  was  musical  withal.  I,  however,  feared  that  his  j^osition  as  a 
gentleman  might  somewhat  interfere  with  the  orders  for  increased 
speed  which  from  time  to  time  I  might  find  it  necessary  to  issue. 

We  rode  on  through  a  finely-cultivated  region,  large  coffee- 
plantations  stretching  on  either  hand  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
variegated  with  fields  of  waving  sugarcane  or  groups  of  umbra- 
geous forest-trees.  My  companion  enlivened  the  way  by  many 
songs  to  the  Virgin  and  "to  his  mistress's  eyebrows;"  but,  when 
the  sun  had  sunk  beneath  the  horizon,  Sr.  Jose  concluded  that  we 
had  journeyed  far  enough  for  one  day,  and  proposed  that  we  should 
tarry  for  the  night  at  the  house  of  a  planter  near  by.  To  this  I 
strongly  objected,  as  my  contract  was  that  I  should  be  carried  for 
a  specific  sum  to  a  specific  point,  several  leagues  farther  on.  I 
found  that  he  was  no  underling,  to  be  crossed  in  his  wishes;  and  he 
firmly  resisted.  I  would  have  left  him  where  he  was,  without 
further  ado;  but,  knowing  the  difficulty  of  separating  animals  that 
have  ti-avelled  in  company,  I  thought  best  to  compromise  the 
matter  by  stating  that  we  would  remain  here  for  the  night,  in 
which  case,  however,  the  compensation  would  be  several  milreis 
less  than  if  we  had  accomplished  the  contemplated  number  of 
leagues.  But  he  was  not  the  man  for  a  compromise:  he  demanded 
full  pay  for  short  work.  I  then  determined,  at  all  hazards,  to  push 
on  without  him.  I  found  m}"  perverse  horse  as  stubborn  as  Sr.  Jose. 
I  endeavored  to  start  him  in  the  direction  of  San  Paulo:  he,  how- 
ever, was  resolved  to  travel  only  toward  the  plantation.  I  spurred 
the  mule,  which  I  rode,  after  him,  endeavoring  to  head  off  the 
horse :  this  I  found  a  most  difficult  task.  Sr.  Jose,  meantime,  sat 
motionless  as  a  statue,  secretly  and  maliciously  enjoying  my  un- 


Sr.  Jose  and  a  Little  Difficulty.  425 

successful  efforts.  I  was  fatigued  beyond  measure;  but  my  will 
was  unbroken,  (as  well  as  that  of  my  horse,)  and  at  last  victory 
crowned  my  struggles,  and,  shouting  to  Sr.  Jose  "  Boa  nolte,"  and 
triumphantly  exclaiming,  ''I  know  how  to  protect  my  rights,"  I 
trotted  off,  Rosinante  in  advance,  toward  San  Paulo. 

Glancing  over  ni}'-  shoulder,  I  beheld  my  guide  still  statue-like 
bestriding  his  mule,  and  comparable  to  any  thing  else  than 
"Patience  on  a  monument  smiling  at  grief."  Poetically  speak- 
ing, he  was  planted. 

My  way  was  now  over  a  good  road,  though  the  overhanging 
forest  obscured  almost  every  ray  of  moonlight.  My  animal  went 
gayly  on,  leaving,  however,  time  enough  for  a  few  reflections. 
Among  them  the  most  prominent  was,  "Suppose  Sr.  Jose  rides 
after  me  and  salutes  me  in  the  back  with  his  long  knife,"  {faca  de 
ponta,)  which  looked  innocent  enough  when  reposing  in  its  sheath 
or  cutting  an  orange.  In  all  my  travels  in  Brazil  I  never  carried 
a  weapon  of  any  kind,  and  this  was  the  first  time  that  I  felt  the 
least  suspicion  that  all  might  not  be  perfectly  safe.  In  the  midst 
of  these  reflections  and  thoughts  about  that  long  knife,  I  had 
accomplished  more  than  a  half-league,  when  I  heai'd  the  rapid 
movement  of  mule-hoofs.  Sr.  Jose  came  thundering  up  the  hill, 
and  overtook  me.  Instead,  however,  of  a  knife-salutation  or  loud 
words,  ho  instantly,  in  the  mildest  possible  voice,  suggested  that 
we  should  change  beasts,  as  he  was  very  much  fatigued,  and  that 
the  difference  in  the  gait  of  the  two  animals  would  be  a  relief 
to  both  parties.  We  went  on  as  cosily  as  if  nothing  had  happened, 
and  at  eleven  o'clock  rode  up  to  the  house  of  one  Sr.  Joiio  Baptista, 
■whose  residence  Avas  christened  with  the  mellifluous  and  auriferous 
name  of  California. 

We  soon  aroused  Sr.  J.  Baptista,  who,  while  we  sipped  our  cha, 
tinkled  on  his  guitar  "  many  a  roundelay."  I  informed  Sr.  J.  B. 
that  the  morrow  was  the  dia  da  independencia  in  the  United  States, 
and  requested  the  favor  of  "  Hail  Columbia."  Sr.  J.  B.  declined,  on 
the  ground  of  not  possessing  the  tune  in  question;  but  (like  a 
skilful  shopkeeper  who,  destitute  of  a  certain  article,  suggests  to 
his  customer  another  which,  in  his  estimation,  is  equally  good 
if  not  superior)  Sr.  J.  B.  proposed  the  Brazileiro,  as  being  nearer 
the   required  national    air   than   any  thing   else   ia   his   musical 


426 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians, 


HERCULES     BEETLE. 


treasury.      Its   spirit-stirring   strains  were   quivering   in   my  ear 
when   I  thousrht  how  difficult  it  would  be  to  find  in  the  back- 

woods  of  Wisconsin  or  Minnesota  ac- 
complished musicians  such  as  Sr.  J.  B. 
or  Sr.  Jose,  who  was  also  skilled  in  the 
art.  The  Brazilians,  as  a  whole,  are  a 
musical  people,  and  sometimes,  during 
a  storm,  when  I  have  been  plodding 
on  in  darkness,  I  have  been  cheered 
by  the  sound  of  a  violin,  a  guitar,  or 
by  human  voices  singing  sweetly  in 
concert. 

1  could  sleep  but  little,  and  that 
little  was  rudely  interupted,  (whether 
by  a  giant  beetle  or  a  stealthy  bat  I 
was  unable  to  ascertain;)  and  I  jumped 
from  my  hard  bed  at  two  o'clock  on 
the  morning  of  the  Fourth  of  July, 
and  aroused  the  household  of  Sr.  J. 
Baptista  and  the  sleepers  in  the  neighboring  rancho  by  screaming 
at  the  top  of  my  voice  the  "  Star-sj^angled  Banner." 

I  bade  my  musical  host  and  Senhor  Jose  adeos,  mounted  my 
Kosinante,  and  accomplished  thirty-two  miles  before  breakfast. 
My  primary  object  had  been  to  get  to  Santos,  in  order  to  take  the 
steamer  of  the  6th  for  Eio;  and  a  secondary  consideration  was  to 
celebrate  the  Fourth  of  July  at  the  house  of  Mr.  E.,  the  English 
engineer. 

I  visited  Senhor  Brotero,  the  President  of  the  Law-School  for 
which  San  Paulo  is  so  justly  celebrated.  Madame  Brotero  I  found 
to  be  a  countrywoman,  from  Boston.  I  also  made  the  acquaintance 
of  Senhor  Brotero,  Jr.,  to  whom  Senhor  Octaviano,  the  accom- 
plished editor  of  the  Correio  Mercantil,  of  Eio,  had  given  me  a  letter 
of  introduction.  This  gentleman,  who  bids  fair  to  be  one  of  the 
leading  men  of  S.  Paulo,  possesses  enlarged  views,  and  has  had  the 
advantage  of  extended  travel  in  Europe  and  North  America. 

It  was  a  pleasant  forenoon  that  I  spent  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  E. 
and  Mr.  C,  inaugurating  with  them  the  celebration  of  my  nation's 
birthday.     Mr.  C,  however,  threw  something  of  a  damper  upon 


Fourth  of  July  Inaugurated  at  S.  Paulo. 


427 


my  patriotism  by  dropping  in,  "By-the-way,  it  is  the  birthday  of 
George  III.:"  but  chronology  shows  that  Mr.  C.  was  just  four 
weeks  out  of  the  way,  and  his  inappropriate  remark  in  no  manner 
marred  the  general  harmony  of  the  occasion. 

These  and  other  friends  pressed  me  not  to  hasten  on  at  my  rapid 
rate,  thinking  that  thirty-two  miles  before  breakfast  was  sufficient 
for  one  day :  but  my  purpose  was  to  make  twenty  miles  that  night 
before  I  sought  repose. 

Senhor  Coelho  (the  maitre-d' hotel)  had  procured  for  me  a  fine 
mule.     He  was  a  lithe  animal,  and  when  I  mounted  he  bounded 


YANKEE      DOODLE      ON     THE      PLAINS     OF     YPIRANGA. 


away  as  though  he  had  wings.  He  clattered  through  the  streets, 
descended  the  hill,  splashed  through  a  little  affluent  of  the  La 
Plata,  and,  just  as  the  sun  was  setting,  went  galloping  gayly  over 
the  plains  of  Ypiranga.  I  soon  came  in  sight  of  the  pavilion 
erected  over  the  spot  where  Dom  Pedro  I.  exclaimed,  Independencia 
ou  Morte,  and,  being  animated  wnth  Fourth-of-July  sentiments,  I 
gave  vent  to  my  patriotism  in  shouting,  at  a  furious  rate,  "Yankee 
Doodle "  and  "  Hail  Columbia,"  to  the  no  small  amusement  and 
astonishment  of  the  sable  passers-by.  M§ 

1  reached   San  Bernardo  and  passed  through  its   silent  streets. 
The  atmosphere  was  laden  with  the  perfume  of  some  sweet  night- 


428  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

opening  flower,  and  the  sky  overhead  seemed  joyous  as  my  home- 
ward-bound spirits.  My  mule  flagged  not,  and  I  was  congratu- 
lating myself  that  my  journey's  end  would  soon  be  accomplished, 
when,  to  my  surprise,  the  spirited  beast  whirled  suddenly'  to  the 
right,  and  plunged  into  the  stable-yard  adjoining  a  large  -white 
house.  I  kicked,  and  cuffed,  and  spui-red,  all  to  no  purpose.  The 
noise  which  I  made  aroused  two  poncho-clad  Brazilians,  who  came 
toward  me,  thus  discoursing  in  Portuguese: — "Yes,  it  is  he." 
"No;  let  me  look  again."  <'  Yes,  I  am  certain  it  is."  These  little 
mDnosyllables  are  as  brief  and  as  elliptical  in  the  language  of  Lusi- 
tania  as  in  the  plainest  Saxon,  and  could  give  me  no  clue  to  the 
meaning  of  the  locutors.  I  was  not,  however,  long  left  in  doubt, 
for  one  of  them  approached,  and  thus  addressed  me: — ^' Senhor, 
isto  e  meu  animal."  (''This  is  my  beast,  sir.")  Supjiosing  that  he 
was  mildly  accusing  me  of  theft,  I  replied  that  he  must  be  mis- 
taken, for  I  had  hired  that  mule  at  S.  Paulo.  "It  may  be,"  he 
said;  "but  still  he  is  mine."  I  then  ascertained  that  the  man  Avas 
the  proprietor  of  my  long-eared  steed,  and  that  he  (the  proprietor) 
had  preceded  me  in  company  with  a  number  of  law-students  who 
were  on  their  way  to  Santos.  Feeling  by  this  time  much  fotigued, 
and  considering  the  stubbornness  that  had  come  over  my  quadruped, 
I  asked  if  I  might  lodge  at  the  house  for  the  night.  The  other 
personage  now  turned  up  his  sombrero  and  informed  me  that  there 
was  no  room  in  the  inn,  but  possibly  I  might  be  accommodated  a 
mile  flirther  on.  I  could  not  make  my  mule  stir;  so  these  two 
benevolent  individuals  aided  me  in  whipping  and  kicking  the 
brute  until  he  was  fairly  under  way.  I  had,  however,  advanced 
only  five  hundred  yards,  when  master  long-ears  pulls  me  up  again, 
and  no  dint  of  beating,  pulling,  pounding,  and  tugging  could  make 
him  budge  a  peg  on  the  "forward  march."  He  willingly  beat  a 
retreat,  and  the  next  moment  I  again  stood  before  the  white 
hospedaria  from  which  I  had  been  politely  sent  away  a  short  time 
before.  My  two  new-made  acquaintances  were  soon  by  my  side, 
and  I  once  more  begged  for  a  room.  One  of  them  gave  a  negative 
answer;  but,  when  I  suggested  that  I  was  willing  to  pay  a  good 
price  for  my  accomm^^tions,  he  left  me  as  if  to  consult  some  one. 
I  then  heard  an  emphatic  female  voice  screech  out,  "Xao,  Senhor." 
This  reply  was  brought  to  me,  and  I  sent   back  word  that  I  had 


Lame  and  Impotent  Conclusion. 


429 


letters  from  Senator  Vergueiro,  showing  that  I  was  a  respectahle 
person.  It  was  of  no  avail,  for  at  each  fresh  attempt  to  move  the 
tender  mercies  of  the  woman  to  whom  belonged  that  voice,  I  re- 
ceived a  more  emphatic  "  JVdo,  senhor."  My  last  resort  was  to 
claim,  in  "the  sacred  name  of  Brazilian  hospitality,  only  room 
enough  upon  their  floor  for  a  stranger  who  is  here  stopped  con- 
trary to  his  own  will."  The  reply  was  the  same,  "JVao,  senhor." 
"Then,"  said  I,  "it  is  an  outrageous  shame.  I  have  travelled 
through  a  number  of  your  provinces,  and  have  mingled  much  with 
the  rich  and  the  poor,  but  this  is  the  first  time  that  I  have  been 
unable  to  obtain  shelter.  Here  I  am,  compelled  before  a  large 
house  to  pass  the  night  in  the  road."  My  appeals  and  denun- 
ciations were  equally 
unsuccessful;   so  I  sat 

down     upon    a    curb-  ^  -^    __ 

stone,      holding      the  ^ 

bridle  of  my  obsti- 
nate and  tired  ani- 
mal. Poor  fellow !  his 
fiitigue  was  not  equal 
to  mine.  I  had  ridden 
since  morning  nearly 
fifty  miles,  and  had 
spent  seven  hours  in 
San  Paulo.  Three  or 
four  daj's  had  elapsed 
since  I  had  had  a  com- 
fortable sleep,  and  the 
night-air  was  keen  for 
Brazil,  though  it  was 
as  balmy  as  a  May 
evening  in  the  North- 
ern hemisphere.  The 
body,  however,  was 
not  suffering  so  much 
as  the   mind.      I  felt  ^i- 

this  inhospitality  to  the  quick.     I  sat  with  mj' head  bowed  down 
upon  my  left  hand,  turning  my  eyes  from  time  to  time  toward  the 


ASTRONOMY     UNDER     DIFFICULT     CIRCUMSTANCES. 


430  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Btars  and  the  waning  moon.      It  was  studjnng  astronomy  under 
difficult  circumstances,  so  tliat  I  did  not  make  much  progress. 

While  thinking  of  my  condition,  and  feeling  that  it  was  worse, 
and  my  treatment  more  outrageous,  than  when,  a  mere  innocent 
student-traveller,  I  was  once  taken  prisoner  on  suspicion  by  the 
Austrians  in  Lombardy,  and  led  by  an  armed  soldier  through  the 
streets  of  Pavia,  I  was  aroused  from  my  reflections  by  an  old 
negress,  Avho  said  to  me,  "Come  here,  senhor."  I  followed  her  to 
a  comfortable  room,  where  she  left  me  with  a  nice  cup  of  tea  and 
doce  accompaniments.  My  mule  was  cared  for,  as  well  as  mj^self, 
and  Avhen  the  morning  sun  awoke  me  I  found  that  I  was  to  have 
as  my  fellow-travellers  the  young  law-students.  I  ascertained 
that  this  house  was  kept  by  a  respectable  Brazilian  widoAv,  Avho 
was  making  a  large  fortune  by  letting  mules  for  riding  or  for 
the  transportation  of  baggage,  and  that  whoever  emploj-ed  her 
animals  in  S.  Paulo  would  be  entertained  gratis  at  this  otherwise 
inhospitable  hospedaria.  It  so  happened  that  the  students  and 
myself  were  not  aware  of  this  regulation,  and  had  hired  our  mules 
of  another  man,  who  had  guided  them  as  far  as  this  house.  Here 
the  young  "legals"  insisted  on  stopping.  The  Donna  da  Casa 
■•efused  them  accommodation,  and  they  had  taken  possession  vi  et 
armis.  It  may  be  that,  owing  to  senhora  being  somewhat  embit- 
t-«-red  by  such  proceedings,  had  refused  me  when  I  pleaded  the  name 
of  Senator  Yergueiro  and  Brazilian  hospitality.  For  assuredly 
there  was  plenty  of  room,  when  we  consider  that  there  were  eight 
unoccupied  beds  in  the  house.  It  may  be,  also,  that  the  senhora 
was  suspicious  of  a  stranger  travelling  alone  at  that  hour  of  the 
night,  as  she  had  been  deceived  a  few  weeks  before  by  an  indi- 
vidual who  pretended  to  have  letters  from  a  nobleman,  but  who 
turned  out  to  be  an  unmitigated  scoundi'ol.  I  was  (justly,  as  I 
thought)  indignant  for  a  time,  and  entertained  an  idea  that  it 
would  be  right  that  the  public  should  know  through  the  Eio 
journals  of  such  treatment  to  an  estrangeiro ;  but  the  more  I 
reflected  upon  it,  I  became  rather  ashamed  of  my  indignation.  I 
had  travelled  thousands  of  miles  In  Brazil,  and  this  was  the  first 
experience  of  the  bitTCr;  and  how  foolish  it  would  be  to  lay  it 
before  the  public !  The  widow  had  a  perfect  right  to  make  such 
regulations  as  she  chose  concerning  her  household,  and  an  Anglo- 


Eeturn  to  Rio  de  Janeiro.  431 

Americ.in  who  is  firm  for  the  independence  of  the  home-castle  is 
assm"edly  the  last  man  who  ought  to  complain.  So  I  dismissed 
the  whole  subject,  and  have  never  recurred  to  it  since,  except  to 
indulge  in  a  laugh  at  my  own  ludicrous  position  in  the  stable- 
yard,  and  the  tableau  of  the  stubborn  mule  and  the  curbstone. 
Thus  ended  my  Fourth  of  July,  1855. 

The  next  day  I  arrived  with  my  student-friends  at  Santos,  and, 
after  enjoying  for  a  few  days  more  the  hospitality  of  Casa  Vergueiro, 
I  steamed  away  in  the  comfortable  old  Paraense  for  Eio  de  Janeiro. 
From  San  Sebastian  to  the  Sugar-Loaf  we  were  pitched  about  in 
fine  style  by  an  angry  sea;  but  the  sun  shone  forth  brilliantly  as 
on  the  following  day  we  lay  under  the  guns  of  Villegagnon,  and 
the  glorious  panorama  of  the  magnificent  bay,  sparkling  in  the 
freshness  of  morning,  lost  none  of  its  splendor  by  comparison 
with  the  beautiful  scenes  which  I  had  witnessed  in  Southern 
Brazil,  and  which  I  afterward  found  unequalled  in  the  provinces 
of  the  North. 

Note  for  1S66. — The  province  of  S.  Paulo,  like  other  Southern  provinces,  by 
its  climate,  soil,  &c.,  oflFers  very  desirable  inducements  to  emigrants  from  the 
United  States.  The  hilly  portions  of  S.  Paulo,  Parang,  St.  Catharines,  and 
Rio  Grande  do  Sul  are  the  best  adapted  to  sheep-farming.  A  very  pleasant 
offering  of  four  fine  merinos  to  the  Emperor  of  Brazil  was  made  by  Dr.  George 
B.  Loring,  of  Salem,  Massachusetts,  in  1865.  The  sheep  were  received  at  Rio 
■with  thankfulness  by  the  Emperor,  and  were  placed  in  the  hands  of  Mr.  John 
Hayes,  the  energetic  and  intelligent  American  director  of  the  plantations  of  the 
Baron  of  Maud.  These  sheep  will  be  the  beginning  of  better  things  in  the  ovine 
race  in  the  Southern  provinces.  Senhor  Marcondes,  the  Minister  of  Agriculture 
in  the  Cabinet  of  August,  18G4,  and  Senhor  Paulo  Souza,  filling  the  same  station 
in  the  Cabinet  of  May,  1865,  highly  praise  the  gift  of  Dr.  Loring. 


^*. 


CHAPTEE  XXIII. 


THE     BRAZILIAN     NORTH EXTENT     OF    THE    EMPIRE  —  THE     FALLS    OF    ITAMARITY 

GIGANTIC    FIG-TREE — THE    KEEL-BILL A    PLANTATION    IN    MINAS-GEBAES — PETER 

PARLEY   IN    BRAZIL SWEET    LEMONS BARONIAL    STYLE THE    PADRE VESPER- 
HOURS THE     PLANTATION-ORCHESTRA THE      WHITE     ANTS      OBEDIENT      TO     THE 

CHURCH, — THE    GREAT    ANT-EATER — THE    PACA THE    MUSICAL    CART — THE    MINES 

AND    OTHER    RESOURCES    OF    MINAS-GERAES COFFEE  :    ITS    HISTORY    AND    CULTURE 

THE    PROVINCE    OF    GOYAZ STINGLESS    BEES    AND    SOUR    HONEY MATO    GBOSSO 

LONG    RIVER-ROUTE    TO    THE    ATLANTIC A    NEW    THOROUGHFARE LIEUTENANT 

THOMAS    J.   PAGE THE    SURVEY    OF    THE    LA    PLATA    AND    ITS    AFFLUENTS FIRST 

AMERICAN    STEAMER    AT    CORUMBA STEAMBOAT-NAVIGATION    ON    THE    PARAGUAY 

OFFICERS    OF     THE     AMERICAN    NAVY DR.   KANE     AND     LIEUTENANT     STRAIN 

DIAMOND     AND    GOLD    MINES    THE     HINDERERS     OF     PROGRESS THE     DIFFERENCE 

IN    THE    RESULTS    FROM    DIAMONDS    AND    COFFEE. 


c 


^ow  to  the  North:  not 
the  Boreal  North,  with 
hoary  beard  and  glisten- 
ing spears  and  crunch- 
ing ice-batteries, — but  a 
genial,  sunny,  laughing, 
flowery,  Austral  North. 

e  on  the  hither  side 
of  the  equator  are  so 
wedded  to  experience, 
that  it  is  difficult  to  con- 
ceive of  a  North  where 

"The  fields  are  florid  in  eternal  prime," 

and    where    mighty   rivers,    with 
unabated  force,  sweep  onward, — 

"And  traverse  realms  unknown  and  bloom- 
«..  ing  wilds, 

And  fruitful  deserts,  worlds  of  solitude ; 
THE    MfNEiRo.  "Where  the  sun  smiles  and  seasons  teem  in  vain." 

432 


C  4'af  ADE      OF       ITAMARITY,      NEAR    £M..J.^£^^J1X  .1  S. 


Extent  of  the  Empire.  433 

I  could  never  become  accustomed  to  look  for  the  sun  and 
the  equator  in  the  direction  which  all  past  experience  told  me 
was  the  region  of  stern  winter.  I  could  not  be  reconciled  to 
the  idea  that  the  southern  front  of  my  Brazilian  residence  was 
the  coldest  side,  although  I  knew  that  reason  and  geographj' 
informed  me  that  that  portion  of  my  house  looked  toward  the 
Falkland  Islands  and  the  unexplored  snow-continent  of  the 
Antarctic  zone. 

But  to  the  Brazilian  North  !  If  by  land,  it  will  be  many  months 
of  painful  journeys  up  mountains  and  hills,  through  dense  forests 
and  jungles,  over  wide  campos  and  broad  rivers,  before  we  reach 
the  Sena  Facaranua,  which  divides  Brazil  and  Venezuela.  J  have 
not  seen  the  record  of  a  single  traveller  who  has  ever  accomplished 
this  long  terrestrial  route.  Eschwege,  Eodriguez,  Ferreira,  Nat- 
terer,  Mawe,  Prince  Maximilian,  Spix  and  Yon  Martius,  St.  Hilaire, 
Langsdorf,  Pohl,  Burchell,  Gardner,  Lieutenant  Strain,  the  expedi- 
tion under  Castlenau,  and  Wallace,  have  traversed  large  districts 
of  Brazil;  while — not  to  mention  earlier  fluvial  explorations — 
Mawe,  Smyth,  Edwards,  Herndon,  Gibbon,  and  Wallace  (the  most 
thorough  explorer)  have  examined  the  Amazon,  and  Lieutenant 
Page  has  the  honor  of  being  the  first  scientific  investigator  of  the 
La  Plata  and  some  of  its  tributaries.  Still,  it  is  hazarding  nothing 
to  say  tliat  the  greater  jjortion  of  this  extensive  Empire  has  only 
been  trodden  by  the  foot  of  the  wild  Indian,  or,  at  long  intervals, 
by  the  most  adventurous  of  the  Portuguese  traders.  It  is  difficult 
for  us  to  comprehend  even  the  dry  tables  of  distances  :  how  much 
more  inconceivable  the  toil  and  the  almost  insurmountable  obstacles 
to  be  endured  and  overcome  in  a  vast  country  with  a  sparse  popu- 
lation, and,  in  certain  portions,  no  roads  save  the  paths  of  cattle 
and  the  tracks  of  the  tapir  !  The  distance,  on  a  straight  line 
drawn  from  the  head-waters  of  the  river  Parima,  on  the  north,  to 
the  southern  shores  of  the  Lagoa  Mirim,  in  Eio  Grande  do  Sul,  is 
greater  than  that  from  Boston  to  Liverpool.  It  is  farther  from 
Pernambuco  to  the  western  boundary  which  separates  Peru  and 
Brazil,  than  by  a  direct  route  from  London,  across  the  Continent, 
to  Egypt.  Brazil  has  neither  been  explored  nor  surveyed,  and  its 
full  extent  cannot  be  accurately  ascertained;  but,  accoiding  to  the 
best   calculations  made  in   1845   for  the   Diccionario  Geographico 

28 


434  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Brazileiro,  the  Empire  contains  within  its  borders  3,004,460  square 
miles.  The  United  States,  by  the  hxtost  computations  of  the  Topo- 
graphical Bureau  at  Washington,  has  an  area  of  3,002,013  square 
miles.  But  by  the  settlement  of  different  boundary-lines  since 
1856,  Brazil  has  acquired  additional  territory:  so  that  we  should 
have  to  add  to  the  jjossessions  of  the  United  States  an  area  equal 
to  that  of  the  adjacent  States  of  New  England,  New  York,  and 
Pennsylvania,  to  make  it  of  the  same  dimensions  as  the  land  of  the 
Southern  Cross  Euroj)ean  Eussia  possesses  an  area  of  2,142,504 
square  miles,  and  the  remainder  of  Europe  1,687,626.  It  is  by 
these  figures  and  comparisons  that  we  may  arrive  at  an  approxi- 
mate idea  of  the  vastness  of  Brazil. 
^  It  is  not,  however,  its  extent  which  should  attract  our  attention 

80  much  as  the  fact  that  no  portion  of  the  globe  is  so  available  for 
cultivation  and  for  the  sustentation  of  man. 

It  has  already  been  seen  that  the  internal  resources  of  this 
Emj)ire  are  commensurate  with  its  favored  position  and  its  wide 
extent.  It  is  neither  the  gold  of  its  mines  nor  the  diamonds  that 
sparkle  in  the  beds  of  its  inland  rivers  that  constitute  the  greatest 
sources  of  its  available  wealth.  Although  natui-e  has  bestowed 
upon  Brazil  the  most  precious  minerals,  yet  she  has  been  still  more 
C/'' prodigal  in  the  gift  of  vegetable  riches.  Embracing  nearly  five 
degrees  north  of  the  equator,  the  whole  latitude  of  the  southern 
torrid  and  ten  degrees  of  the  southei'n  tempei*ate  zone,  and 
stretching  its  longitude  from  Cape  St.  Augustine,  (the  easternmost 
point  of  the  continent,)  across  the  mountains  of  its  own  interior,  to 
the  very  foot  of  the  Andes,  its  soil  and  its  climate  offer  an  asylum 
to  almost  every  valuable  plant.  In  addition  to  numberless  varieties 
of  indigenous  growth,  there  is  scareelj'  a  production  of  either  India 
which  might  not  be  naturalized  in  great  perfection  under  or  near 
the  equator;  while  its  interior  uplands,  and  its  soil  in  the  Far 
South,  welcome  many  of  the  fruits,  the  grains,  and  the  hardier 
vegetables  of  Europe. 

Ever}-  year  this  Empire  is  becoming  more  developed;  yet  it  will 
require  two  centuries  of  its  present  progress  to  bring  it  to  an  equal 
position  with  the  United  States.  The  signs  of  the  times  are,  how- 
ever, that  Brazil  will  not  go  on  at  the  snail's-pace  which  charac- 
terized her  up  to  the  abolition  of  the  slave-trade;   and  the  internal 


The  Falls  of  Itamarity.  435 

improveinents  auspiciously  begun  under  D.  Pedro  II.  will  rapidly 
unfold  the  resources  of  the  country. 

Of  the  twenty  provinces,  four  only  are  inland, — viz. :  Minas- 
Geraes,  Goyaz,  Mato  Grosso,  and  Amazonas,  (sometimes  called 
Alto  Amazonas.)  It  is  in  Mato  Grosso  ("dense  forest")  and 
Goyaz  that  the  head-waters  of  the  Amazon  and  the  La  Plata  have 
their  origin,  within  a  few  miles  of  each  other;  while  on  the  bor- 
ders of  Minas-Geraes  the  sources  of  the  San  Francisco,  the  Tocan- 
tins,  and  the  La  Plata  take  their  rise  from  the  same  mountain- 
ridge. 

The  usual  route  to  the  fertile  province  of  Minas-Geraes  is  thi'ough 
Petropolis,  and  the  traveller  thither  should  not  fail  to  make  a  little 
detour  and  visit  one  of  the  prettiest  cascades  in  Brazil.  Following 
for  a  few  miles  the  highroad  to  the  Minas,  we  turn  to  our  right, 
and  there,  among  the  dells  formed  by  the  Serra  da  Estrella,  wo 
find  the  Falls  of  Itamarity.  The  name,  in  the  Guarani  language, 
signifies  "shining  stones,"  or  "the  rock  which  shines;"  so  called, 
doubtless,  from  the  glittering  appearance  of  the  large  mass  of  rock, 
the  face  of  which  is  worn  smooth  by  the  water.  Ita  means  "stone 
or  rock."  This  cascade  is  composed  of  three  distinct  falls,  formed 
by  a  stream  of  small  size  unless  after  heavy  rains.  The  charm  of 
this  lovely  spot  consists  in  the  surrounding  woods  and  the  mur- 
muring waters;  so  that  we  may  truly  say  that 

"the  gush  of  springs 
And  fall  of  lofty  fountains,  and  the  bend 
Of  stirring  branches,  and  the  bud  which  brings 
The  swiftest  thought  of  beauty,  here  extend, 
Mingling,  and  made  by  Love  unto  one  mighty  end." 

Garlands  of  parasites  enfold  the  old  trees  in  their  graceful  arms, 
and  bands  of  verdant  climbers  depend  from  the  highest  boughs  to 
the  very  ground.  The  torrent  has  undermined  the  banks  and 
prostrated  the  trees  that  stood  near  the  edges,  and  they  now  lie  in 
wild  disorder  across  the  bed  of  the  stream,  mingled  here  and  there 
with  huge  stones  brought  down  by  the  force  of  the  water. 

The  bridge  represented  in  the  engraving  was  improvised  for  the 
occasion  of  the  visit  by  Sir  W.  Gore  Ouseley,  formerly  British 
]\Iinister  to  Br-izil.     Such  crossings  are  easily  formed  by  felling  a 


436 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


few  trees  and  binding  them  together  with  the  supple  vines  that 
abound.  Nature  soon  heals  her  wounds  and  clothes  them  with 
parasites,  so  that  in  a  few  weeks  the  artificial  structure  seems  like 
a  work  of  her  own  hand. 

The   road   from    Petropolis    to    Barbacena    is   exceedingly  pic- 
turesque,— sometimes  winding  along  the  side  of  a  mountain  which 


A     BRAZILIAN      MOUNTAIN-ROAD. 


gives  extensive  views  of  plains  be3'ond,  and  sometimes  in  deep 
valleys  along  the  banks  of  babbling  streams.  Long  troops  of 
mules  on  their  way  to  Estrella  are  constantly  passing;  but  —  to 
nliow  the  wildiiess  of  the  region  notwithstanding  frequent  vil- 
lages and  fiizendas  —  we  were  startled  ever}^  few  moments  by 
flocks  of  wild  parrots,  and  could  hear  in  the  trees  the  chattering 
of  monkeys.     Now  a  fine  road  for  coaches  leads  to  Barbacena. 

At  a  place  called  Padre  Correas,  not  far  from  Petropolis,  is  a 
celebrated  wild-fio;  tree,  whose  branches  extend  over  a  circum- 


Giant  Fig-Tree  and  the  Jacaranda.  437 

fercnce  of  four  hundred  and  eighty  feet,  and  four  thousand  persons, 
it  is  computed,  can  stand  under  its  shade  at  noonday.  Near  by, 
on  the  heiirht  east  of  the  hamlet,  can  also  be  seen  two  rows  of  the 
Brazilian  pine,  {Araiicaria  Braziliana,)  so  well  known  in  the  large 
conservatories  of  Europe  and  the  United  States.  Yery  fine  speci- 
mens of  this  Brazilian  pine-tree  are  to  be  found  in  the  Crystal 
Palace  at  Sydenham.  ^Yhen  one  hundred  miles  farther  in  the 
interior,  I  saw  xnviwy  jacaranda  (rosewood)  trees.  Their  resemblance 
to  the  common  locust  of  the  United  States  is  very  striking.  There 
are  a  number  of  species  of  the  jacaranda,  varying  in  tint  from  a 
deep  rich  brown  to  a  beautiful  violet.  The  latter  kind  I  have 
never  seen  north  of  the  equator,  save  in  small  specimen-pieces; 
but,  at  the  Fazenda  do  Governo,  Dr.  Joaquim  A.  P.  Da  Cunha,  the 
amiiable  proprietor,  showed  me,  in  his  establishment  for  making 
sugar,  a  beam,  fifty  feet  long  and  three  feet  in  diameter,  of  the 
violet-tinted  jacaranda.  It  had  performed  the  menial  office  of  a 
connecting-beam  for  fifty  years,  and  its  exterior  was  dusty ;  but, 
on  chipping  it,  I  found  it  to  be  of  the  most  beautiful  violet.  The 
wood  of  Dr.  Da  Cunha's  pig-pen  consisted  of  boards  and  sticks  of 
rosewood :  but  let  none  of  my  readers  imagine  a  highly-polished 
piano  or  a  splendid  centre-table;  for  exposure  to  the  atmosphere 
renders  the  jacaranda  as  plebeian  in  appearance  as  the  commonest 
weather-beaten  pine.  The  rosewood-tree  is  cut  down,  deprived 
of  its  branches,  and  conveyed  to  market  generally  by  floating  it 
to  some  seaport-town,  Avhence  it  is  shipped  to  North  America  and 
Europe.  It  is  of  exceeding  hardness  and  durability, — cog-wheels 
made  of  this  wood  lasting  longer  than  those  constructed  from  any 
other  ligneous  substance.  The  United  States  annually  purchase 
of  Brazil  eighty  thousand  dollars'  worth. of  rosewood. 

As  I  was  journeying  in  the  province  of  Minas,  I  observed  a  flock 
of  birds  of  which  I  had  seen  the  same  species  at  the  foot  of  the  Organ 
Mountains,  and  which  I  then  took  to  be  the  common  blackbirds  so 
well  known  in  North  America;  but  a  closer  inspection  showed  them 
to  possess  a  bill  of  remarkable  thickness.  They  had  a  clear  and 
musical  whistle,  and  I  afterward  discovered  them  to  be  the  ani, — 
a  genus  of  scansorial  birds  found  only  in  Tropical  America.  They 
are  sometimes  called  the  keel-bill.  They  live  in  flocks,  and  it  is 
said  that  they  have  practical  communism  among  them,  many  pairs 


•438 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


THE     KEEL-BILL. 


using  the  same  nest,  -which  is  built  on  the  branches  of  trees,  and 
is  of  a  large  size.     Here  they  lay  and  hatch  in  concert. 

I  cannot  enter  into  the  details  of  ray 
journey  in  Minas-Geraes,  but  I  am  reluctant 
to  pass  over  a  visit  to  one  of  the  finest 
plantations  in  the  province.  The  proprietor 
was  a  Brazilian,  and  the  whole  fazenda, 
in  its  minutest  details,  was  carried  on  in  the 
manner  peculiar  to  the  country,  without 
any  admixture  of  foreign  modes  of  govern- 
ment and  culture. 

Twelve  miles  be^^ond  the  Parahibuna  (an 
aflfluent  of  the  Parahiba)  we  turned  aside 
from  the  highway,  and,  after  riding  through 
a  belt  of  enclosed  forest-land,  we  saw  before  us  the  large  plantation- 
house  of  Soldade,  belonging  to  Senhor  Commendador  Silva  Pinto. 
The  approach  to  the  mansion  was  between  two  rows  of  palm-trees, 
around  whose  trunks  a  beautiful  bignonia  (the  venusta)  entwined 
itself,  and  then  threw  its  climbing  branches  over  the  feathery  leaves 
of  the  palms,  thus  forming  a  magnificent  arch  of  flowers  and 
foliage.  /The  buildings,  in  the  form  of  a  hollow  square,  occupied 
an  acre  of  ground.  On  two  sides  of  the  square  was  the  residence 
of  the  Commendador  and  his  familj',  while  the  remaining  sides 
consisted  of  the  sugar-establishment  and  the  dwellings  of  the 
slaves.  We  entered  the  court-yard  by  a  high  gateway,  and  then 
for  the  first  time  we  perceived  the  venerable  planter  sitting  in  a 
second-story  veranda,  reading.  So  soon  as  he  saw  us  he  laid  down 
his  book,  descended  into  the  square,  and  with  great  affability  bade 
us  a  warm  welcome.  The  American  party  doubtless  owed  this 
hospitable  reception  to  one  of  our  companions.  Dr.  Ildefonso  Gomez, 
a  Brazilian  Avhom  almost  every  man  of  science  visiting  the  Empire 
has  delighted  to  honor  for  his  intelligence,  for  his  eminent  abilities 
as  a  natui'alist,  and  for  his  integinty  as  a  jnan. 

Servants  flew  about  noiselessly  at  the  commands  of  the  Com- 
mendador :  they  gave  us  rooms,  hot  coflee,  hot  baths,  &c.  &c. 
Then  both  they  and  their  master  did  that  which  is  most  grateful 
to  the  weary  traveller :   they  let  us  alone. 

When  I  had  performed   my  ablutions  and  was  recovered  from 


Peter  Parley  in  Brazil.  439 

fatigue,  I  went  to  the  veranda  where  the  Commendador  had  been 
reading.  I  picked  up  his  book,  and  to  my  astonishment  I  here 
found  that  it  was  A  Historia  Universale  do  Senhor  Pedro  Parity, 
(Peter  Parley's  Universal  History!)  Old  Peter  Parley  in  the  inte- 
rior of  Brazil!  I  knew  that  England  had  availed  herself  of  those 
books  which  have  delighted  Anglo-American  childhood,  and  that 
hosts  of  counterfeiters  and  imitators  had  arisen,  assuming  that 
nam  de  plume;  but  it  was  beyond  m.j  most  sanguine  expectations 
to  have  ever  seen  in  the  Portuguese  language,  and  in  an  interior 
province  of  distant  Brazil,  the  history  of  the  Eastern  and  Western 
Continents  by  Senhor  Pedro  Parley  amusing  and  instructing  youth 
and  old  age.  It  was  no  imitation.  In  reading  the  preflice,  I  per- 
ceived that  some  priest  had  had  to  do  with  the  translation,  for  it 
roundly  asserted  that  Senhor  Pedro  Parley  was  tan  bom  Catholico 
Romano!  which  will  doubtless  be  an  important  piece  of  informa- 
tion to  the  veritable  Puritan-descended  Peter. 

I  looked  from  the  veranda  upon  a  scene  of  cultivation.  Close  at 
hand  were  one  hundred  and  fifty  hives  with  bees;  gently-rounded 
hills  were  covered  with  grazing  flocks  and  herds,  cotton  and  sugar 
fields  were  in  valleys,  while  Indian  corn  and  mandioca  in  large 
tracts  were  far  to  our  right.  The  orange-orchard  was  the  largest 
that  I  ever  saw  in  any  land  :  it  was  computed  that  there  were  ten 
thousand  bushels  of  six  different  kinds  of  the  luscious  fi'uit.  The 
sweet  lemon  abounded  to  such  an  extent  that  it  was  estimated 
that  there  were  five  thousand  bushels.  A  "sweet  lemon"  seems 
almost  as  much  of  a  contradiction  in  terms  as  an  honest  thief;  but 
it  is  a  i-eality.  Dr.  Ildefonso  Gomez  informed  me  that  this  fruit, 
exactly  resembling  the  acid  one  bearing  the  same  name,  was 
originally  a  sour  lemon,  but,  by  a  disease  and  by  grafting,  a  new 
species  has  been  produced.  The  taste  is  not  so  rich  as  that  of  an 
orange,  but  is  very  quenching  to  the  thirst,  and  the  Brazilians  at 
Rio  consume  great  quantities  of  them.  Near  S.  Romao,  a  little 
place  on  the  head-waters  of  the  San  Francisco,  the  lemon-tree  has 
become  naturalized,  and  the  cattle  that  pasture  in  the  woods  are  so 
fond  of  the  fallen  fruit  that  when  killed  their  flesh  smells  strongly 
of  it. 

Of  all  the  articles  mentioned  above,  not  one  finds  its  way  to 
market.     They  are  for  the  sustenance  and  clothing  of  the  8la^'es, 


440  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

of  whom  the  Commendador  formerly  had  seven  hundred.  These 
are  engaged  in  cultivating  coffee,  (for  this  is  the  great  coffee- 
region,)  which  is  the  only  crop  intended  by  the  proprietor  to  bring 
back  a  pecuniary  return.  This  senhor  owns  other  plantations,  but 
that  of  Soldade  contains  an  area  of  sixty-four  square  miles. 

At  dinner  we  were  served  in  a  large  dining-room.  The  Com- 
mendador sat  at  the  head  of  the  table,  while  his  guests  and  the 
various  free  members  of  his  family  sat  upon  forms,  the  feitors 
(overseei's)  and  shepherds  being  at  the  lower  end.  He  lives  in 
true  baronial  style,  and  I  was  reminded  of  the  descrij^tion  by  Mr. 
J.  G.  Kohl  of  castle-life  among  the  noblemen  of  Courland  and 
Livonia.  A  pleasant  conversation  was  kept  up  during  the  long  re- 
past, and  at  its  close  three  servants  came, — one  bearing  a  massive 
silver  bowl  a  foot  and  a  half  in  diameter,  another  a  pitcher  of  the 
same  material  containing  warm  water,  while  a  third  carried 
towels.  The  newly-arinved  guests  were  thus  ser\'ed  in  lieu  of 
finger-basins,  which  are  rarel}?^  seen  outside  the  capital. 

The  Commendador  had  a  chapel  in  his  mansion,  and  each  morn 
ing  mass  was  performed  by  an  amiable  young  Portuguese  priest, 
who  knew  much  more  about  music  than  the  gospel.  The  padre 
had  many  questions  to  ask  concerning  the  peculiar  doctrines  of 
Protestants,  and  I  was  surprised  to  find  that  he  possessed  no 
Bible.  I  presented  him  with  a  New  Testament,  and  before  my  de- 
parture we  had  many  most  earnest  and  serious  conversations  in 
regard  to  vital  piety  and  the  solemn  responsibility  that  was  upon 
him  to  teach  the  truth  as  it  is  in  Christ  Jesus.  With  the  approval 
of  the  Commendador,  (which  was  heartily  given,)  exi^lanations  of 
the  Scriptures  were  hereafter  to  constitute  a  portion  of  the  chapel- 
service  on  Sunday's.      This  planter  is  now  the  Baron  of  Bcrthioga. 

On  these  interior  plantations  there  is  a  beautiful  custom  at  ves- 
pers of  ottering  a  short  prayer  and  wishing  each  other  a  good- 
night; not  that  they  then  retire,  but  boa  noite  is  the  form  of  a 
blessing.  We  were  all  sitting  on  the  veranda  as  the  last  rays  of 
the  sun  were  gilding  the  hill  and  the  distant  forest.  The  chapel- 
bell  struck  the  vesper-hour.  The  conversation  was  arrested:  we 
all  arose  to  our  feet.  The  hum  of  the  sugar-mill  ceased;  the  shout 
of  the  children  died  away;  the  slaves  that  were  crossing  the  court- 
yard stopped  and  uncovered  the  head.     All  devoutly  folded  their 


The  Plantation-Orchestra.  441 

hands  and  breathed  the  evening  prayer  to  the  Virgin.  I  too  joined 
in  devotion  to  the  blessed  Saviour,  the  sole  Mediator,  and  when 
the  padre  and  others  wished  me  the  blessing  in  the  name  of  Nossa 
Senliora,  I  returned  the  benediction  em  norne  de  JVosso  Senhor  Jesus 
Christo.  The  noise  of  merry  voices  again  rang  through  the  court- 
yard; the  day's  labor  was  finished;  and  soon  night,  with  its  dark- 
ness, silence,  and  repose,  reigned  over  Soldade. 

Another  custom  I  observed  in  various  parts  of  Brazil,  which, 
though  a  mere  unmeaning  form,  is  a  custom  both  Christian  and 
beautiful.  I  doubt,  however,  if  one  in  a  thousand  attach  any 
deeper  significancy  to  it  than  we  do  to  "good-morning."  At  the 
close  of  the  day  the  slaves  enter  the  room  where  their  master  is, 
and,  with  their  hands  crossed,  each  addresses  the  fazendeiro  in  a 
pious  salutation,  the  full  form  of  which  is,  "I  beseech  your  blessing 
in  the  name  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ,"  and  the  reply  should  be, 
''Our  Lord  Jesus  Chi'ist  bless  you  forever;"  but  in  time  this  prayer 
and  benediction  are  abbreviated  to  the  last  words  of  each  sentence, 
which  are  pronounced  in  a  most  rajoid  and  business-like  manner  by 
both  parties: — Jesiis  Christo sempre,  (forever.) 

In  the  course  of  our  conversation  the  Commendador  told  us  that 
he  had  his  "own  music  now."  He  spoke  of  it  very  humbly.  We 
desired  to  hear  his  musicians,  supposing  that  we  should  b^f.r  •"• 
wheezy  plantation-fiddle,  a  fife,  and  a  drum.  The  Coramor.d.f'.or 
said  that  we  should  be  gratified  in  the  evening.  An  hour  afcer 
vespers  I  heard  the  twanging  of  violins,  the  tuning  of  ^uteo,  short 
voluntaries  on  sundry  bugles,  the  clattering  of  trombcre'j.  and  all 
those  musical  s}' niptoms  preparatory  to  a  beginning  of  some  march, 
waltz,  or  polka.  I  went  to  the  room  whence  ])YO^r■od'Jd  these 
sounds;  there  I  beheld  fifteen  slave  musicians, — a  regular  band: 
one  presided  at  an  organ,  and  there  was  a  choir  of  younger  negroes 
arranged  before  suitable  stands,  upon  which  were  sheets  of  printed 
or  manuscript  music.  I  also  observed  a  respectable  colored  gentle- 
man (who  sat  near  me  at  dinner)  giving  various  directions.  He 
was  the  maestro.  Three  raps  of  his  violin-bow  commanded  silence, 
and  then  a  wave  of  the  same,  a  la  Julien,  and  the  orchestra  com- 
menced the  execution  of  an  overture  to  some  opera  with  admirable 
skill  and  precision.  I  was  totally  unprepai-ed  fox  this.  But  the 
next  piece  overwhelmed  me  with  surprise  :  the  choir,  accompanied 


442  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

by  the  instruments,  performed  a  Latin  mass.  They  sang  from  their 
notes,  and  little  darkies  from  twelve  to  sixteen  years  of  age  read 
off  the  Avords  with  as  much  fluency  as  students  in  the  Freshman 
year.  I  could  scarcely  believe  my  eyes  and  ears,  and  in  order  to 
try  the  accomplishments  of  the  company  I  asked  the  maestro  for 
the  Stabat  Mater:  he  instantly  replied,  "Sim,  Senhor,"  nained  to 
the  musicians  the  page,  waved  his  baton,  and  then  the  wailing  and 
touching  strains  of  Stabat  Mater  sounded  through  the  corridors  of 
Soldade.  While  at  supper  we  were  regaled  by  waltzes  and  stii-ring 
marches, — among  the  latter  "  Laflxyette's  Grand  March,"  composed 
in  the  United  States.  The  maestro  regretted  that  they  had  it  not 
in  their  power  to  play  our  three  national  airs;  but  I  promised  him 
that  when  an  opportunity  should  afford  I  would  take  pleasure  in 
adding  to  his  musical  library  "Yankee  Doodle,"  "Hail  Columbia," 
and  the  "Star-spangled  Banner."  One  morning  at  three  o'clock  I 
was  awakened  by  a  servant,  who  informed  me  that  the  orchestra 
was  about  to  play  the  Brazileiro  in  honor  of  0  Senhor  Commenda- 
dor's  guests;  and  in  a  few  minutes  the  band,  with  the  addition  of 
big  drum,  little  drum,  and  cymbals,  startled  the  early  birds  by  the 
national  anthem  of  Brazil,  which  was  succeeded  by  "Lafayette's 
Grand  March." 

Before  our  departure  from  Soldade,  the  hospitable  proprietor 
furnished  us  horses,  and  we  sallied  forth  to  roam  over  the  immense 
plantation.  A  portion  of  our  party  carried  their  guns,  hoping  to 
meet  with  game  in  our  ramble.  We  rode  over  hills  used  as  pas- 
ture-ground, which  were  literally  dotted  with  the  upright  and 
fallen  columns  that  had  been  ere(Hed  by  the  termites,  or  white  ant. 
These  curious  edifices  and  their  still  more  curious  architects  have 
always  had  a  great  attraction  for  the  naturalist.  The  hillocks 
are  conical  in  their  shape,  but  not  with  a  broad  base  and  tapering 
point  as  those  built  b}'  the  termites  of  Africa.  Exposure  to  the 
sun  has  rendered  them  exceedingly  hard,  and  doubtless  many 
that  are  seen  upon  the  uplands  of  S.  Paulo  and  Minas-Geraes  are 
more  than  a  century  old;  for  houses  whose  walls  have  been  built 
from  the  same  earth  are  still  in  existence  which  Avere  built  by  earh'- 
settlers  in  the  seventeenth  century.  Sometimes  the  termites' 
dwelling  is  overturned  by  the  slaves,  the  hollow  scooped  wider,  and 
is  then  used  as  a  bake-oven  to  parch  Indian  corn.     In  m}'  ride  over 


Literary  White  Ants.  443 

Soldade  I  saw  a  number  of  very  large  vultures,  who,  during  the 
rain,  had  taken  refuge  in  the  houses  that  had  been  vacated  by  the 
white  ant. 

These  insects  do  not,  however,  always  dwell  in  columnar  edifices 
of  three  and  six  feet  in  height.  I  have  seen,  in  some  portions  of 
Brazil,  the  ground  ploughed  up,  to  the  extent  of  one  hundred 
feet  in  circumference,  by  one  nest  of  white  ants.  Again,  they  will 
climb  trees,  carrying  building  materials  with  them,  and  erecting 
a  small  archway  (resembling 
what  caipenters  call  an  "inch- 
bead")  over  them  for  protection 
against  their  sworn  enemy,  the 
black  or  brown  ant,  and  on  the 
loftiest  branches  they  will  con- 
struct their  nest.  In  cities  they 
are  sometimes  vcrj^  destructive : 
hence  every  Brazilian  lady  keeps 
her  fine  robes  in  tin  boxes,  and 
each  gentleman  who  pretends  to 
a  library  must  often  look  at  it 
to  see  if  the  cupim,  or  white  ant,  has  not  become  a  most  penetrating 
reader  of  his  volumes.  My  introduction  to  the  cupim  was  in  the 
house  of  our  former  Consul,  ex-Governor  Kent.  A  box  of  books 
sent  out  by  the  American  Tract  Society  was  placed  in  a  lower 
room,  and  the  next  morning  it  Avas  announced  to  me  that  the 
cupim  had  entered  my  property.  I  hastened  to  the  room,  and, 
turning  over  the  box,  beheld  a  little  black  hole  at  the  bottom,  and 
white,  gelatinous-looking  ants  pouring  out  as  though  very  much 
disturbed  in  their  occupation.  I  opened  the  box,  and  found  that 
a  colony  of  cupim  had  eaten  through  the  pine  wood,  and  then 
had  pierced  through  "Baxter's  Call,"  "Doddridge's  Else  and 
Progress,"  until  they  had  reached  the  place  where  Bunyan's 
Pilgrim  lay,  when  they  were  rudely  deranged  in  their  literary 
pursuits. 

On  another  occasion  I  saw  a  Brussels  carpet,  under  which  cupim 
had  insinuated  themselves  and  had  eaten  out  nearly  all  the  canvas 
before  the  proprietor  made  the  sad  discovery. 

Dr.  Kidder,  at  Campinas,  witnessed  the  depredations  of  the  white 


WHITE      ANTS      IN 


444 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


ants  in  the  faipa  (clay-built)  houses.  They  insinuate  themselves 
into  the  mud  -walls,  and  destro}^  the  entire  side  of  a  house  by  per- 
forations. Anon  they  commence  woriiing  in  the  soil,  and  extend 
their  operations  beneath  the  foundations  of  houses  and  under- 
mine them.  The  people  dig  large  i)its  in  various  places,  with  the 
intent  of  exterminating  tribes  of  ants  which  have  been  discovered 
on  their  march  of  destruction. 

Mr.  Southey  states,  on  the  authoi'ity  of  Manoel  Felix,  that  some 
of  these  insects,  at  one  time,  devoured  the  cloths  of  the  altar  in 
the  Convent  of  S.Antonio,  at  Maranham,  and  also  brought  up  into 
the  church  pieces  of  shrouds  from  the  graves  beneath  its  floor; 
whereuj)on  the  friars  prosecuted  them  according  to  due  form  of 
ecclesiastical  law.  What  the  sentence  was  in  this  case,  yve  are 
unable  to  learn.  The  historian  informs  us,  however,  that,  having 
been  convicted  in  a  similar  suit  at  the  Franciscan  Convent  at 
Avignon,  the  ants  were  not  only  excommunicated  from  the  Eoman 
Catholic  Apostolic  Church,  but  were  sentenced  bj^  the  friars  "to 
the  pain  of  removal,  within  three  days,  to  a  place  assigned  them 

in  the  centre  of  the 
earth."  The  canon- 
ical  account  grave- 
ly adds  that  the  ants 
obeyed,  and  carried 
away  all  their 
young  and  all  their 
stores ! 

The  white  and 
other  ants  have, 
however,  enemies 
far  more  tangible 
than  bulls  of  ex- 
communication, in 
the  Myrmccophaga, 
or  the  great  ant- 
eater,  the  Taman- 
dua,  and  the  "little 
ant-eater,"  of  which  the  last  two  have  a  prehensile  tail.  The  great 
ant-eater  is  a  most  curious  animal,  but  well  adapted  to  the  purposes 


GREAT     ANT-EATER. 


The  Great  Ant-Eater.  445 

for  wliich  it  was  designed  by  the  Creator.  Its  short  legs  and  long 
claws  (the  latter  doubled  up  when  in  motion)  do  not  hinder  it  from 
running  at  a  good  pace;  and  when  the  Indians  wish  to  catch  it 
they  make  a  pattering  noise  upon  the  leaves  as  if  the  rain  were 
falling,  upon  which  the  myrmecophaga  cocks  his  huge  bushy  tail 
over  his  body,  and,  standing  perfectly  still,  soon  falls  a  prey.  In 
the  northern  part  of  Minas-Geraes  a  naturalist  once  came  sud- 
denly upon  the  great  ant-eater,  and,  knowing  the  harmless  nature 
of  its  mouth,  seized  it  by  the  long  snout,  by  which  he  tried  to 
hold  it,  when  it  immediately  rose  upon  its  hind-legs,  and,  clasping 
him  around  the  middle  with  its  powerful  fore-paws,  completely 
brought  hitn  to  a  stand.  It  was  struck  down  with  a  club  a 
number  of  times,  but  soon  recovered  and  ran  off;  and  not  until 
a  pistol-ball  was  lodged  in  its  breast  was  the  naturalist  able  to  add 
it  to  his  collection.  It  measured  six  feet  in  length  without  the 
tail,  which,  together  with  the  long  tufts  of  hair,  measured  full  four 
feet  more. 

When  the  great  ant-bear  sleeps,  it  lies  on  one  side,  rolls  itself 
up  so  that  its  snout  rests  on  its  breast,  places  all  its  feet  together, 
and  covers  itself  with  its  bushy  tail.  When  thus  curled  up,  it  is 
80  exactly  like  a  bundle  of  hay  that  any  one  might  pass  it  care- 
lessly, imagining  it  to  be  a  loose  heap  of  that  substance. 

When  it  walks  or  runs,  the  claws  of  the  foi'e-feet  are  doubled 
up,  causing  one  side  only  of  the  foot  to  rest  upon  the  ground.  The 
proper  use  of  these  powerful  claws  is  to  obtain  the  white  ant. 
When  the  ant-bear  wishes  a  meal,  he  attacks  one  of  the  hai"d 
hillocks  ah'eady  described,  and  with  his  huge  fore-paws  furiouslj^ 
tears  out  a  portion  of  the  walls,  and,  thrusting  in  his  long,  slender 
tongue,  which  is  covered  with  a  viscid  saliva,  and  to  which  mj-riads 
of  ants  adhere,  he  opens  his  little  mouth  and  draws  it  in:  then, 
shutting  his  lips,  he  pushes  out  his  tongue  a  second  time,  retain- 
ing the  ants  in  his  mouth  until  the  tongue  has  been  completely 
exserted,  when  he  swallows  them.  Wallace  says  that  the  Indians 
of  the  Upper  Amazon  positively  assert,  that  the  great  ant-eater 
sometimes  kills  the  jaguar  by  tightly  embracing  the  latter  and 
thrusting  its  enormous  claws  into  the  jaguar's  sides.  The 
aborigines  also  "  declare  that  these  animals  are  all  females,  and 
believe  that  the  male  is  the  'curupira,'  or  demon  of  the  forest. 


446 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


The  peculiar  organization  of  the  animal  has  j^robably  led  to  this 
error." 

As  we  descended  the  hills  of  Soldade  on  our  return  to  the  planta- 
tion-house, one  of  our  party  fired  at  two  pacas  which  were  feeding 
near  a  little  stream.  Either  the  aim  of  the  hunter  was  not  good, 
or  the  buckshot  did  not  tell  upon  the  hairy  side  of  the  animal,  and 
in  a  few  moments  he  had  swum  the  river  and  was  hidden  in  the 
thick  copse  of  bushes  and  ferns.  The  paca,  the  capybara,  and 
agouti  abound  in  Brazil,  and  are  of  the  same  family  as  marmots 


THE      PACA. 


and  6ea\  ors.  The  paca  attracts  the  attention  of  the  hunter  both 
on  account  of  the  difficulty  of  its  capture  (as  it  takes  the  water 
and  swims  and  dives  admirabl}^)  and  the  esculent  nature  of 
its  flesh.  It  is  about  eighteen  inches  in  height  and  two  feet  in 
length,  and  its  color  is  brown,  spotted  with  white.  The  hinder 
limbs  (being  considerably  bent)  are  longer  than  the  anterior 
ones,  and  its  claws  are  w^ell  formed  for  digging  and  burrowing. 
They  are  easily  domesticated,  and  make  lively  pets,  eating  readily 
out  of  the  hand  of  those  it  is  accustomed  to,  but  hiding  from 
strangers.  A  friend  bound  to  the  United  States  had  one  on  ship- 
board, which  was  a  great  favorite,  and  bade  fair  to  weather  the 
voyage  and  visit  the  shores  of  North  America ;    but  either  the 


The  Musical  Cart. 


447 


new  paint,  or  some  salt  water  that  he  drank  in  a  storm,  cat  short 
the  thread  of  his  existence,  and  poor  paca  was  consigned  to  the 
blue  waves  of  the  Atlantic. 

After  leaving  our  kind  host,  we  journeyed  toward  Barbacena,  over 
roads  that  can  be  used  for  vehicles;  but  the  only  movable  article 
of  that  kind  which  we  saw  was  the  Eoman  cart,  unimproved  since 
the  days  of  the  Georgics.  Indeed,  all  Eoman  carriages  were  of  the 
same  simple  plan.  The  wheels  did  not  turn  on  their  axis,  but  axis 
and  wheels  turned  together.  We  could  often  hear  music  of  a  most 
fortissime  character,  which  they  ground  out  as  they  moved  slowly 
over  the  plantations.  I  was  informed  that  the  Brazilians  construct 
these  carts  of  a  particular  wood,  having  special  reference  to  the 
musical  qualities,  which,  when  put  into  action  under  a  heavy 
load  and  behind  three  yoke  of  cattle,  resemble  the  concentrated 
powwow  of  a  thousand  belligerent  tomcats.     On  the  day  of  somp 


THE      MUSICAL     CART. 


festa,  I  was  travelling  near  the  banks  of  the  Parahiba,  and  miles 
away  I  heard  the  ginnding  of  a  cart.  The  distance  had  somewhat 
mellowed  its  music,  and,  after  a  long  ride,  I  came  up  with  it,  and 
found  a  gay  party  of  country  Brazilians  in  their  holiday  attire 
riding  upon  the  old  Eoman  chariot,  which  was  adorned  with  bed- 
covers of  a  bright  pattern.  The  unbonneted  senhoras  seemed  as 
much  at  home  in  their  turn-out,  and  doubtless  as  proud  of  it,  as  the 


448  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

most- clashing  lady  of  the  Fifth  Avenue  in  her   cushioned  coach 
which  sways  softlj^  upon  the  most  modern  elastic  springs. 

The  province  of  Minas-Geraes  is^  the  mos^important  of  all  the 
inland  divisions  of  the  Enii^ire,  owing  to  its  mineral  and  vegetal 
riches,  its  immense  herds,  its  accessibility  to  market,  and  its 
population.  It  contains  eight  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  and 
yet  is  so  extensive  that  there  are  within  its  area  of  one  hundred, 
and  fifty  thousand  square  miles  many  forests, — a  perfect  wilder- 
ness, overrun  with  Indian  tribes,  and  where  the  jaguar  roams  in 
undisturbed  independence. 

Other  portions  are  among  the  most  imj)i'Oved  and  eligible  parts 
of  the  Empire.  One  writer  has  remarked,  with  great  emphasis, 
that,  if  there  be  one  spot  in  the  world  which  might  be  made  to  sur- 
pass all  othei-s,  Minas  is  that  favored  spot.  Its  climate  is  mild  and 
healthful;  its  surface  is  elevated  and  undulating;  its  soil  is  fertile, 
and  capable  of  yielding  the  most  valuable  productions;  its  forests 
abound  in  choice  timber,  balsams,  drugs,  and  dye-woods. 

But  all  these  circumstances  together  have  not  given  the  pro- 
vince so  much  celebrity  as  the  single  fact  of  its  inexhaustible^ 
mineral  wealth.  Its  name  signifies  the  general  or  universal  mines, 
and,  accordingly,  mines  of  gold,  silver,  copper,  and  iron  are  found 
within  its  borders,  besides  quantities  of  precious  stones.  Sevei*al 
of  the  most  valuable  gold-mines  not  far  from  Ouro  Preto  have  been 
wrought  by  an  English  mining  company  for  the  last  twenty  years. 
This  enterprise  has  been  unquestionably  a  source  of  profit  to  its 
stockholders,  and  has  I'endered  great  service  to  the  country  gene- 
rally, by  introducing  the  most  approved  methods  of  mining  and 
by  giving  an  impetus  to  Brazilian  industry.  This  company  con- 
stantly emj)loys  a  large  number  of  miners  from  Cornwall,  and  has 
established  quite  an  English  village  at  its  j)rincipal  mine. 

The  agricultural  capacities  of  the  province  are  very  great.  It 
yields  coffee,  sugar,  tobacco,  and  cotton.  It  indeed  produces  some 
coarse  manufactures  of  cotton.  Its  soil  yields  Indian  corn  in  great 
profusion,  and  may  be  made  to  grow  wheat.  Upon  its  campinas, 
or  upland  praii'ies,  innumerable  herds  of  cattle,  and  some  flocks  of 
sheep,  are  jjastured.  The  milk  of  the  cows  is  converted  into  a 
species  of  soft  cheese,  known  as  the  queijo  de  Minas.  Immense 
quantities  of  them  may  be  seen  at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  and  from  that 


■in 


The  History  of  Coffee.  /44ft 

port  they  are  scattered  along  the  coast,  being  very  much  esteemed 
as  an  article  of  food. 

The  great  staple,  however,  of  Minas-Geraes,  and  of  the  whole 
Empire  of  Bi*azil,  is  coifee.  What  a  histor}"  might  be  written  of 
the  voyages,  the  naturalization,  and  the  uses  of  this  mefnber  of  the 
Rabiacece  family !  The  coffee-tree  is  not,  as  is  generally  supposed, 
a  native  of  Arabia,  but  its  home  is  Abyssinia,  and  particularly 
that  district  called  Kaffa,  whence  the  name  of  the  beverage-berry. 
To  this  day  the  coffee-plant  is  found  growing  as  far  as  the  sources 
of  the  White  Nile.  It  was  not  taken  to  Arabia  until  the  fifteenth 
century,  wdien,  being  cultivated  extensively,  with  great  success  as 
to  quantity  and  quality,  in  the  province  or  Kingdom  of  Yemen,  and 
embarked  from  Mocha,  the  coffee  of  that  portion  of  the  world  ob- 
tained a  celebrity  which  it  has  never  lost.  When  it  was  introduced 
by  the  Orientals  into  Europe  Ave  know  not;  but  as  early  as  1538 
we  find  edicts  against  it,  issued  by  the  Mohammedan  priests,  on 
the  gi^ound  that  the  faithful  went  more  to  the  coffee-shops  than  to  '-"('iT 
the  mosque.  The  earliest  notice  that  we  have  of  it  in  France  is 
in  1643,  when  a  certain  adventurer  from  the  Levant  established  in 
Paris  a  coffee-house,  which  did  not  succeed.  In  a  few  years,  how- 
ever, it  became  the  viode  among  the  aristocracy,  through  its 
inauguration  by  Soliman  Aga,  the  Ambassador  of  the  Sublime 
Porte  at  the  Court  of  Louis  XIV.  Several  of  the  high  personages 
of  the  time  resisted  its  introduction, — among  them  the  celebrated 
Madame  de  Sevigne,  who  had  declared  that  the  popularity  of  coffee 
would  be  merely  ephemeral;  and,  in  the  intensity  of  her  admira- 
tion for  Corneille,  she  predicted  that  Le  Racine  passerait  covime  le 
cafe,  (Eacine  will  be  forgotten  as  soon  as  coffee,)  both  of  which 
predictions  have  jiroved  rather  detrimental  to  the  prophetic  reputa- 
tion of  the  renowned  lady  letter-writer.  Before  the  middle  of  the 
seventeenth  century  it  was  in  vogue  in  the  principal  capitals  of 
Europe.  An  English  merchant  from  Constantinople  was  the  first 
to  introduce  it  to  the  Londoners,  and  his  wife,  being  a  young  and 
pretty  Greek,  was  a  most  attractive  saleswoman.  It  is  said  that 
the  coffee-houses  were  greatly  multiplied  during  the  Protectorate, 
and  that  Cromwell,  wishing  to  protect  the  interest  of  the  taverns, 
and  doubtless  urged  on  by  the  publicans,  caused  them  to  be  closed. 

Previous  to  the  eighteenth  century,  all  the  coffee  consumed  in 

29 


m5>' 


450  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Europe  was  brought  from  Arabia  Felix  via  the  Levant,  and  the 
Pachas  of  Egypt  and  Syria  took  good  care  to  increase  their  coffers 
by  exorbitant  transit  duties.  This  exaction  was  broken  up  by  the 
vessels  of  Holland,  (first,)  England,  and  France  sailing  around  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  Mocha.  In  1699,  Yan  Horn,  first  President 
of  the  Dutch  East  Indies,  obtained  coffee-plants  and  had  them 
cultivated  in  Batavia,  where  they  wonderfully  prospered,  and  the 
berries  of  Java  obtained  a  reputation  second  only  to  those  of  ilocha. 
One  of  the  Batavian  shrubs  was  transplanted  to  the  Botanical 
Gardens  of  Amsterdam  in  1710,  and  by  great  care  succeeded  so  well 
that  a  shoot  was  sent  to  Louis  XIV.  and  placed  in  the  Jardin  dea 
Plautes.  From  this  last  plant,  slips  were  confided  to  M.  Isambert 
to  be  taken  to  Martinique;  but  M.  Isambei't  died  before  the  arrival 
of  the  ship,  and  consequentl}^  the  coffee-plants  perished.  In  1720, 
Antoine  de  Jussieu,  of  the  Royal  Botanical  Gardens,  sent,  by  Cap- 
tain Declieux,  three  more  coffee-shrubs,  also  destined  to  Martinique. 
The  voyage  was  long,  the  vessel  was  short  of  water :  two  of  the 
plants  died,  but  Captain  Declieux  shared  Ms  ration  of  water  with 
the  cajier,  and  thus  succeeded  in  introducing  it  into  the  West 
Indies :  that  plant  was  the  ancestor,  it  is  said,  of  all  the  coffee- 
plantations  in  America. 

The  honor  of  planting  the  first  coffee-tree  in  Brazil  belongs  to 
the  Franciscan  Friar  Villaso,  who  in  1754  placed  one  in  the 
garden  of  the  San  Antonio  Convent  at  Rio  de  Janeiro.  It  was  not, 
however,  until  after  the  Haytien  insurrection  that  coffee  became  an 
object  of  great  cultivation  and  commerce  in  Brazil.  In  1809,  the 
first  cargo  was  sent  to  the  United  States,  and  all  the  coffee  raised 
in  the  Empire  in  that  year  scarcely  amounted  to  30,000  sacks, 
while  in  the  Brazilian  financial  year  of  1855  there  were  exported 
3,256,089  sacks,  which  brought  into  the  country  nearly  $25,000,000. 
The  United  States,  during  the  financial  year  ending  June  30,  1856, 
imported,  from  all  coffee-producing  countries,  235,241,362  pounds  of 
the  beverage-berry,  180,243,070  pounds  (i.e.  nearly  three-fourths 
of  the  whole)  of  which  came  from  Brazil.  The  next  highest 
country  on  the  list  is  Venezuela,  which  sent  us  16,546,166  pounds; 
and  thirdly,  Hayti,  from  which  we  imported  about  13,500,000 
pounds.  The  whole  sum  paid  by  the  United  States  for  coffee  was 
821,514,196,  of  which  Brazil  received  no  less  than  $16,091,714. 


Coffee-Culture.  ^^^ 

The  great  coffee-region,  as  has  been  mentioned,  is  on  the  banks 
of  the  Eio  Parahiba,  and  in  the  province  of  San  Paulo;  but  every 
year  it  is  more  widely  cultivated,  and  a  considerable  quantity  is 
now  grown  in  provinces  farther  northward.  It  can  be  planted  by 
burying  the  seeds  or  beri'ies,  (which  are  double,)  or  by  slips.  The 
trees  are  placed  six  or  eight  feet  apart,  and  those  plants  which 
have  been  taken  from  the  nursery  with  balls  of  mould  around  their 
roots  will  bear  fruit  in  two  years;  those  detached  from  the  earth 
will  not  produce  until  the  third  year,  and  the  majority  of  such 
shrubs  die.  In  the  province  of  S.  Paulo,  and  the  richest  portions 
of  Minas-Geraes,  one  thousand  trees  will  yield  from  2560  to  3200 
pounds,  in  Eio  de  Janeiro  from  1600  to  2560.  In  some  parts  of  S. 
Paulo,  one  thousand  trees  have  yielded  6400  pounds;  but  this  is 
extraordinary.  In  the  province  of  Eio  de  Janeiro,  trees  are  gene- 
rally cut  down  every  fifteen  j^ears.  There  are  some  cafiers  on  the 
plantation  of  Senator  Vergueiro  which  are  twenty-four  years  old, 
and  ai"e  still  bringing  forth  fruit.  As  a  general  rule,  they  are  not 
allowed  to  exceed  twelve  feet  in  height,  so  as  to  be  in  reach.  When 
the  berry  is  ripe,  it  is  about  the  size  and  color  of  a  cherry,  and 
resembles  it,  or  a  large  cranberry:  of  these  berries  a  negro  can 
daily  collect  about  thirty-two  pounds.  There  are  three  gatherings 
in  the  yeai',  and  the  berries  are  spread  out  upon  pavements  or  a 
level  portion  of  ground,  (the  terreno,')  from  whence  they  are  taken 
when  diy  and  denuded  of  the  hull  by  machinery,  and  afterward  con- 
veyed to  market.  Nothing  is  more  beautiful  than  a  coffee-planta- 
tion in  full  and  virgin  bloom.  The  snowy  blossoms  all  burst  forth 
simultaneously,  and  the  extended  fields  seem  almost  in  a  night 
to  lay  aside  their  robe  of  verdure,  and  to  replace  it  by  the  most 
delicate  mantle  of  white,  which  exhales  a  fragrance  not  unworthy 
of  Eden.  But  the  beauty  is  truly  ephemeral,  for  the  snow-white 
flowers  and  the  delightful  odor  pass  away  in  twenty-four  hours. 

It  is  by  toilsome  journeys  on  mule-back  that  the  coffee-sacks 
from  Minas-Geraes  generally  reach  a  market,  and  nothing  so  much 
hinders  the  general  prosperity  of  this  province  as  its  lack  of  good 
roads  and  some  feasible  thoroughfare  to  a  market.  The  province 
has,  of  late  years,  expended  considerable  sums  upon  the  construc- 
tion of  roads,  but  as  yet  it  cannot  send  a  single  ton  of  its  produce 
to  market  upon  wheels.    The  journey  from  Ouro  Preto,  the  capital, 


452  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

to  Eio  de  Janeiro, —  a  distance  of  about  Uxo  hundred  miles, — is 
performed  on  the  backs  of  mules  and  horses  only,  and  ordinarily 
requires  fifteen  days. 

As  to  education,  it  is  but  just  to  say  that  Minas-Geraes,  accord- 
ing to  official  statistics,  takes  the  lead  of  all  the  provinces  in  this 
praiseworthy  enterprise.  The  provincial  Government  has  made 
large  expenditures  for  the  suj^port  of  schools,  and  the  people  seem 
to  have  appreciated  the  benefit  to  he  derived  from  them. 

Should  the  long-talked-of  enterprise  of  steam  navigation  upon 
the  Eio  Doce  and  the  Eio  de  S.  Francisco  ever  prove  successful, 
the  interests  of  Minas-Geraes  vs^ould  be  greatly  promoted.  A  most 
thorough  survey  of  the  Eio  de  S.  Francisco  was  made  by  Mr.  Halfekl 

As  to  the  navigation  of  the  Eio  San  Francisco, — a  river  as  large 
as  the  Volga, — a  glance  at  the  map  will  show  its  importance  to 
Minas  and  all  other  provinces  watered  by  it  and  its  tributaries. 
The  San  Francisco  is  the  largest  river  emptjdng  into  the  Atlantic 
between  the  Amazon  and  the  Eio  de  la  Plata.  It  rises  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Minas,  and  waters  the  soil  of  Bahia,  Pernambuco,  Sergipe, 
and  Alagoas,  in  its  course  to  the  ocean.  From  the  mouth  of  the 
Eio  das  Velhas  to  the  Falls  of  Paulo  Affonso,  not  many  leagues 
east  of  Joazeira,  a  distance  of  seven  hundred  miles,  its  waters  are 
suitable  for  navigation,  although,  from  the  sparseness  of  population 
on  its  banks,  and  the  lack  of  enterprise,  it  is  but  little  used  for  this 
purpose.  The  Falls  of  Paulo  Affonso  are  described  by  those  who 
have  seen  them  as  an  immense  cataract,  over  which  the  river 
plunges,  forming  a  spectacle  of  the  utmost  grandeur.  The  vapors 
arising  from  the  ravine  may  be  seen  at  a  great  distance.  They 
resemble  the  smoke  of  a  conflagration  in  the  midst  of  the  forest. 
The  river  does  not  again  find  a  tranquil  bed  until  near  its  er$.- 
bouchure,  but  for  the  space  of  seventy-five  miles  dashes  with  fury 
over  a  succession  of  rapids  and  smaller  catai-acts,  which  effectually 
interrupt  the  passage  of  vessels  and  forbid  the  hope  of  any  arti- 
ficial connection  between  the  upper  and  lower  navigation. 

But  these  difficulties  are  about  to  be  overcome  in  another  man- 
ner: a  railway  from  Pernambuco  to  Joazeira  has  already  been 
projected,  through  the  enterprise  of  the  Messrs.  de  Mornay,  who 
have  obtained  the  concession  of  the  first  portion  for  its  construc- 
tion from  the  city  of  Pernambuco  to  Agoa  Preta,  on  the  river  Una, 


Railroad  to  the  S.  Francisco. 


453 


a  distance  of  seventy-four  miles.  From  Bahia  also  another  road 
has  been  projected  northward  to  Joazeira.  Now,  from  the  latter 
point  to  the  mouth  of  the  Eio  das  Yelhas  there  is  an  uninterrupted 
steamboat  navigation  for  seven  hundred  miles,  and  numerous  tri- 
butary rivers  increase  the  navigation  to  nearly  two  thousand  miles. 
It  is  therefore  from  the  Barra  das  Yelhas  that  a  railway  will  most 
probably  be  made  to  Eio  de  Janeiro,  about  four  hundred  and  thirty 
miles  in  a  straight  line, — the  whole  comprising,  by  rail  and  by 
river,  as  Mr.  Borthwick  in  his  excellent  report  says,  "a  grand  in- 
ternal communication  between  the  capital  and  the  most  thriving 
provinces;"  and  such  is  its  necessity  that  it  is  only  a  question  of 
time.  When  such  a  system  of  internal  improvements  is  completed, 
no  province  will  be  more  benefited  than  Minas-Geraes.  The  recent 
investigations  of  Mr.  Ilalfeld  have  been  published  by  the  government. 


INHABITANTS  OF  THE   FORESTS  OF  G0YA2. 


Upon  the  west  and  north  of  Minas-Geraes  is  the  large  province 
of  Goyaz.  Like  most  of  the  interior  portions  of  Brazil,  Goyaz  was 
discovered  and  overrun  at  an  early  day  by  the  Paulistas,  in  their 
search  for  mines  and  Indian  slaves.  It  abounds  in  gold,  diamonds, 
and  precious  stones;  but  its  remoteness  from  the  sea-shore,  and  its 
lack  of  roads,  canals,  and  steamboats  upon  its  navigable  rivers,  are 
great  obstacles  to  the  development  of  its  resources. 

This  province,  bounded  on  the  west  by  the  Araguaia,  may  be 
considered  as  occupj^ing  the  central  portion  of  Brazil,  and  is  not 
generally  mountainous,  although  its  surface  is  elevated  and  un- 
equal. Some  tall  virgin  forests  are  seen  upon  the  banks  of  its 
rivers,  in  which  most  comical  monkeys  abound;    but  the  larger 


454  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

part  of  the  province  is  covered  with  that  species  of  low  and 
stunted  shrubbery  vpbich  prevails  in  large  portions  of  the  province 
of  Minas,  and  is  designated  by  the  terms  catingas  and  carasqueiros. 
Its  soil  yields  the  usual  productions  of  Brazil,  together  with  many 
of  the  fruits  of  Southern  Europe.  Cultivation  has  progressed 
further  in  Goyaz  than  in  ]\Iato  Grosso,  though  it  is  still  extremely 
backward. 

The  name  of  this  province  is  derived  from  the  Goyas,  a  tribe  of 
Indians  formerly  inhabiting  its  territory,  but  now  nearly  extinct. 
Various  other  tribes  still  exist  within  its  borders,  several  of  which 
cherish  a  deadly  hatred  to  the  people  who  have  invaded  their 
domains  and  disturbed  them  in  their  native  haunts.  Settlements 
are  often  laid  waste  by  the  hostile  incursions  of  these  Indians. 

In  Goyaz,  as  well  as  in  other  portions  of  the  interior,  the  tra- 
veller will  find  plenty  of  honey  made  by  stingloss  bees.  I  do  not 
know  that  it  holds  true  in  Brazil,  as  in  North  America,  that  the 
bee  precedes  by  a  few  miles  the  onwai'd  march  of  civilization, — 
advances  as  the  Indian  and  the  wild  beast  prepare  to  take  their 
departure, — and  thus  is  the  pioneer  of  a  better  state  of  things;  but 
it  gives  of  its  sweets  to  sustain  and  cheer  the  settler  and  the 
voyageur  in  those  vast  and  fertile  solitudes.  I  sujjpose  that  the 
bees  of  Brazil  are  indigenous,  and  not  like  the  honey-bee  of  the 
United  States,  which  was  unknown  before  the  arrival  of  Eurojieans, 
and  to  which  the  Indians — having  no  term  for  it  in  their  language 
— gave  the  name  of  "English  flies."  The  greater  portion  of  the 
Brazilian  bees  possess,  in  their  absence  of  weapons,  a  peculiarity 
which  many  a  stung  sufferer  would  wish  the  Apis  mellifica  of  North 
America  possessed.  Some  of  these  bees  make  sour  honey,  which 
will  compensate  for  sweet  lemons.* 


*  Dr.  Gardner,  in  his  visit  to  Goyaz,  was  entertained  at  a  little  place  not  far  from 
Natividade,  near  the  mountains  which  form  the  southwestern  boundary  of  Piauhi. 
"The  owner  of  the  house,"  he  says,  "returned  from  the  woods,  shortly  after  our 
arrival,  with  a  considerable  quantity  of  wild  honey,  some  of  which  he  kindly  gave 
us,  and  we  found  it  excellent :  it  was  the  product  of  one  of  the  smaller  bees  so 
numerous  in  this  part  of  Brazil.  This  was  the  season  in  which  the  people  go  to 
the  woods  in  search  of  honey.  It  is  so  generally  used,  that,  after  leaving  Duro, 
[where  Goyaz,  Piauhi,  and  Pernambuco  are  contiguous,]  a  portion  was  presented 
to  us  at  almost  every  house  where  we  stopped.  These  bees  mostly  belong  to  the 
genus  Melipona,  Illiq.,  and  I  collected  a  great  many,  which,  with  some  other  zoo- 


GoYAZ — Stingless  Bees.  455 

In  some  portions  of  Goyaz  society  is  very  backward,  but  not 
altogether  in  the  state  which  existed  at  the  time  (1817)  of  St. 
Ililaire's  visit.  There  is  a  powerful  class  of  the  inhabitants  called 
vaqueiros,  or  cattle-proprietors.  These  men  possess  vast  herds  of 
horned  cattle,  and  their  principal  business  is  to  mark,  tend,  and 
fold  them.  They  understand  the  use  of  the  lasso,  and  also  of  the 
long  knife.  However,  their  moral  and  intellectual  condition  is  by 
no  means  perfect. 


logical  specimens,  were  afterward  lost  in  crossing  a  river.     A  list  of  them,  with 
their  native  names  and  a  few  observations,  may  not  be  uninteresting: — 

"1.  Jatahy. — Tbis  is  a  very  minute  yellowish-colored  species,  being  scarcely  two  lines  long.  The 
honey,  which  is  excellent,  very  much  resembles  that  of  the  common  hive-bee  of  Europe. 

"2.  Mulher  branco. — About  the  same  size  as  No.l,  butof  a  whitish  color:  the  honey  is  likewise  good, 
but  a  little  acid. 

"3.  Tuhi. — A  little  black  bee,  smaller  than  a  common  house-fly:  the  honey  is  good,  but  has  a  pecu- 
liar bitter  flavor. 

"4.  Manoel  cVAbreu. — About  the  size  of  the  tubi,  but  of  a  yellowish  color:  its  honey  is  good. 

"  5.  Atakira. — Black,  and  nearly  the  same  size  as  the  titbi, — the  principal  distinction  between  them 
consisting  in  the  kind  of  entrance  to  their  hives :  the  tuhi  makes  it  of  wax,  the  atakira  of  clay.  Its 
honey  is  very  good. 

"6.  Oarili. — Of  a  blackish  color,  and  about  the  same  size  as  the  tubi:  its  honey  is  rather  sour,  and 
not  good. 

"7.  Tataira. — About  the  size  of  the  tuhi,  but  with  a  yellow  body  and  a  black  head:  Its  honey  is 
excellent. 

"  8.  Mumbilco. — Black,  and  larger  than  the  tubi:  the  honey,  after  being  kept  about  an  hour,  becomes 
as  sour  as  lemon-juice. 

"9.  Bejui. — Very  like  the  tubi,  biit  smaller:  its  honey  is  excellent. 

"  10.  Tiuhd. — Of  the  size  of  a  large  house-fly,  and  of  a  grayish-black  color :  its  honey  is  excellent. 

"11.  l}iird. — About  the  size  of  a  house-fly,  and  of  a  yellowish  color:  its  honey  is  acid. 

"  12.  Urussu. — About  the  size  of  a  large  humble-bee :  the  head  is  black  and  the  body  yellowish.  It 
produces  good  honey. 

"  13.  UrussH  preto. — Entirely  black,  and  upward  of  an  inch  in  length :  it  likewise  produces  good 
honey. 

"14.  Canidra. — Black,  and  about  the  same  size  as  No.  13:  its  honey  is  too  bitter  to  be  eatable.  It  is 
said  to  be  a  great  tliief  of  the  honey  of  other  bees. 

"15.  Cliiipc. — About  the  size  of  No.  10,  of  a  black  color.  It  makes  its  hive  of  clay  on  branches  of 
trees,  and  is  often  of  a  very  large  size.     Its  honey  is  good. 

"16.  Urapua. — Very  like  No.  15,  but  always  builds  its  hive  rounder,  flatter,  and  smaller. 

"  17.  EnchH. — This  is  a  kind  of  wasp  about  the  size  of  a  house-fly :  its  head  is  black  and  the  body 
yellow.  It  builds  its  hive  in  the  branches  of  trees :  this  is  of  a  papery  tissue  about  three  feet  in  circum- 
ference.    Its  honey  is  good. 

"  18.  JEiidiu  pequeno. — Very  similar  to  the  last,  but  always  makes  a  smaller  hive :  it  also  produces 
good  honey. 

"  The  first  eleven  of  these  honey-bees  construct  their  cells  in  the  hollow  trunks  of  trees,  and  the 
others  either  in  similar  situations  or  beneath  the  ground.  It  is  only  the  last  three  kinds  that  sting,  all 
the  others  being  harmless.  The  only  attempt  I  ever  saw  to  domesticate  these  bees  was  by  a  Ccrnish 
miner  in  the  Gold  District,  who  cut  off  those  portions  of  the  trunks  of  tlie  trees  which  contained  the 
uest,  and  fastened  them  up  under  the  eaves  of  his  house.  They  seemed  to  thrive  very  well ;  but  when- 
ever the  honey  was  wanted,  it  was  necessary  to  destroy  the  bees.  Both  the  Indians  and  the  other 
inhabitants  of  the  country  are  very  expert  in  tracing  these  insects  to  the  trees  in  which  they  hive. 
They  generally  mix  the  honey — which  is  very  fluid — with  farinha  before  they  eat  it,  and  of  the  wax 
they  make  a  coarse  kind  of  taper  about  a  yard  long,  which  serves  in  lieu  of  candles,  and  which  the 
country-people  biing  to  the  villages  for  sale.  We  found  this  very  convenient,  and  always  carried  a  suffi- 
cient stock  with  us:  not  unfrequently  we  were  obliged  to  manufacture  them  ourselves  from  the  wax 
obtained  by  my  own  men."    1865,  M.  Brunet,  of  Bahia,  has  found  forty  kinds  of  bees. 


456  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

But,  in  the  general  imi:»rovement  which  is  gradually  pervading 
all  Brazil,  this  province  receives  its  share;  and,  when  the  railways 
are  completed  to  Joazcira,  Goyaz  will  be  easily  brought  within 
a  few  hours  of  the  great  marts  on  the  Atlantic  seaboard.  The 
various  affluents  of  the  Tocantins  and  of  the  Parahiba  do  Sul 
water  this  province,  and  afford  it  a  certain  species  of  communica- 
tion with  the  adjacent  provinces;  and  yet  in  the  middle  and 
southern  provinces  I  have  met  with  travellers  and  mule-troops 
taking  the  long  and  fatiguing  land-route  to  Eio  de  Janeiro  and 
Santos.  From  Goyaz,  the  capital  of  the  province,  to  Para,  the 
distance  is  more  than  one  thousand  miles,  and  this  journey  has 
been  jjerformed  the  whole  way  by  water,  with  the  exception  of  a 
few  leagues.  This  long  river-route  was  accomjjlished  as  early  as 
1773,  under  the  governorship  of  Jose  d'Almeida  de  Yasconcellos 
Sobral  e  Carvalho,  and  we  of  the  North  are  filled  with  wonder 
that  this  navigation  does  not  become  permanent  and  reliable.  As 
Brazilian  steamers  have  been  running  regulai-ly  upon  the  Amazon 
since  1853,  we  may  hope  in  time  to  see  the  waters  of  the  Tocantins 
and  its  tributaries  furrowed  by  suitable  vapores.  The  President  of 
this  province,  Sr.  Magalhaes,  descended  the  Araguaya  to  Para  inl863. 

Mato  Grosso  is  an  immense  province,  containing  a  greater  area 
than  the  original  thirteen  States  of  the  Union.  It  is  west  of 
Goyaz,  and  borders  ujDon  Bolivia,  the  Argentine  Confederation, 
and  Paraguay. 

Mato  Grosso  may  be  reached  from  Para  by  ascending  either  the 
Tocantins,  the  Chingu,  the  Tapajos,  or  the  Madeira  Elvers.  A 
glance  at  the  map  would  lead  one  to  suppose  that  the  passage  of 
the  Madeira  was  not  only  the  longest,  but  also  that  which  would 
be  in  every  way  the  most  difficult.  It  is,  however,  better  known 
than  either  of  the  others,  and  is  the  only  one  which  has,  to  any 
extent,  been  a  commercial  thoroughfare. 

The  distance  in  a  right  line  from  Para  to  Villa  Bella,  or  Mato 
Grosso,  (one  of  the  principal  towns  of  the  province,)  is  about  one 
thousand  miles.  Not  less  than  two  thousand  five  hundred  miles 
must  be  traversed  in  making  the  passage  by  water.  Lieutenant 
Gibbon,  U.S.N.,  has  given  a  very  interesting  account  of  his 
descent  (in  1852)  of  the  Mamore  Eiver,  from  the  fort  Principe  de 
Beira  to  the  Madeira,  and  thence  to  Para;  but  the  best  detailed 


Lieutenant  Page's  Survey  of  the  La  Plata.       457 

sketch  of  this  long  route  and  the  numerous  difficulties  it  opposes 
to  either  the  ti*aveller  or  the  merchant  is  found  in  a  memoir  pub- 
lished by  the  G-eographical  and  Historical  Institute  of  Rio  de 
Janeiro.     Brazil  established  mail-steamers  to  Cuyaba  in  1856^ 

For  the  distance  of  fifteen  hundred  miles  up  the  Amazon  and 
the  Madeira,  to  the  Falls  of  St.  Antonio,  there  is  nothing  in  the 
way  but  a  powerful  current.  Much  of  the  country  through  which 
the  last-named  river  flows  is  very  unhealthy.  From  the  Falls  of 
St.  Antonio  a  succession  of  falls  and  rapids  extend  upwai'd  more 
than  two  hundred  miles.  Nearly  all  this  distance  it  is  necessary  to 
transport  canoes  and  cargoes  overland,  by  the  most  tedious  and 
difficult  processes  imaginable.  Precipices  must  be  climbed,  roads 
cut,  and  huts  built  from  time  to  time  as  a  temporary  shelter 
against  the  rains.  In  short,  three  or  four  months  are  necessarily 
consumed  on  this  part  of  the  route.  Once  above  this  chain  of 
obstacles,  there  remain  about  seven  hundred  miles  of  good  naviga- 
tion on  the  Mamore  and  Guapore  Rivers.  Previous  to  steam-navi- 
gation on  the  AiTiazon  the  entire  voyage  occupied  ten  months, 
when  made  by  traders  carrying  goods.  Vast  numbers  of  Indians 
and  negroes  are  required  as  oarsmen  and  bearers  of  burdens.  It 
is  customary  for  several  companies  to  associate  together,  and  the 
supplies  which  must  necessarily  be  provided  beforehand  occasion 
great  expense  and  inconvenience.  The  downwai'd  voyage,  as  a 
matter  of  course,  Avould  be  much  more  easily  and  quickly  per- 
formed. Notwithstanding  the  tedium  and  the  toil  of  this  long 
and  dreary  passage,  it  is  generally  less  dreaded  than  the  overland 
route  to  Rio  de  Janeiro.  On  the  latter,  an  interminable  succession 
of  mountains,  the  lack  of  any  direct  or  suitable  roads,  the  impos- 
sibility of  procuring  provisions  by  the  way, —  at  least  for  great 
distances, — and  the  slow  pace  of  loaded  mules,  are  by  no  means 
trifling  difficulties  in  the  way  of  either  desj)atch  or  pleasure. 
•  But  by  the  enterprise  and  abilit}^  of  Lieutenant  Thomas  J.  Page, 
U.S.N.,  a  new  route  by  water  to  the  capital  of  the  Empire  has 
been  opened  to  Brazil  and  the  world.  This  gentleman,  acting 
under  orders  of  the  United  States  Government,  sailed  from  Nor- 
folk in  1853,  in  the  U.  S.  steamer  "Water- Witch,"  four  hundred 
tons'  burd(m  and  nine  feet  draft.  The  object  of  this  expedition 
was  the  survey  of  the  river  La  Plata  and  its  tributaries,  for  the 


458  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

advancement  of  commerce  and  the  promotion  of  science.  Although 
some  obstacles  presented  themselves  at  Eio  de  Janeiro,  the  Impe- 
rial Government  finally  granted  its  consent,  and  the  Water-Witch 
went  on  its  mission  of  peace;  and  no  one  can  read  Lieutenant 
Page's  report  to  the  late  Secretary  of  the  Navy  (Mr.  Dobbin) 
without  the  deej)est  interest,  and  the  conviction  that  the  surveys 
and  discoveries  of  the  Commander  and  those  under  him  are  of  the 
greatest  importance  to  North  America  and  Europe,  as  well  as  to 
Brazil  and  the  South  American  States. 

The  investigations  of  Lieutenant  Page  on  the  Parana,  Paraguay, 
and  also  a  number  of  their  tributaries,  show  conclusively  that  these 
rivers  can  become  the  richest  channels  of  commerce.  Of  the  Para- 
guay he  says : — 

"  This  river  differs  from  the  Parana  in  several  particulars.  Its 
period  of  rising  is  generally  the  reverse;  it  contains  but  few 
islands,  is  confined  between  narrow  limits,  is  more  easy  of  navi- 
gation, because  less  obstructed  by  shoals,  and  the  course  of  its 
channel  is  less  variable;  its  width  from  one-eighth  to  three-fourths 
of  a  mile,  its  velocity  two  miles  per  hour,  and  its  rise  is  from 
twelve  to  fifteen  feet.  In  October  it  attains  its  maximum  and  in 
February  its  minimum  state.  From  its  mouth  to  Assuncion,  a  dis- 
tance of  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  there  were  found  no  less  than 
twenty  feet  of  water  when  the  river  had  fallen  about  two  feet. 
This  depth  of  water  remained  unchanged  for  the  distance  of 
several  hundred  miles  above  Assuncion,  and  the  Water- Witch  haa 
ascended  the  Paraguay  seven  hundred  miles  above  this  place  be- 
fore she  found  less  than  twelve  feet.  At  this  time  the  river  had 
fallen  several  feet. 

"The  admirable  adaptation  of  these  rivers  to  steam-navigation 
cannot  but  forcibly  strike  the  most  casual  observer. 

"There  are  no  obstructions  from  fallen  trees,  neither  shoals  nor 
rocks,  to  endanger  navigation.  At  suitable  points — in  fact,  at 
every  point  in  Paraguay  particularly — an  abundance  of  the  best 
wood  may  be  procured  immediately  on  the  banks;  and,  when 
populated,  no  difficulty  will  be  found  in  obtaining  a  supply  of  it 
prepared  for  immediate  use.  By  experiment  carefully  made, 
one  cord  of  the  Paraguay  wood  was  ascertained  to  be  equal,  in 
the  production  of  steam,  to  a  ton  of  the  best  anthracite  coal. 


Dr.  Kane  and  Lieutenant  Strain.  459 

"The  left  bank  of  the  river,  up  to  the  distance  of  four  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  from  Assuncion,  is  populated,  but  more  and  more 
sparsely  as  the  northern  frontier  is  approached.  Between  the  most 
northern  Paraguayan  and  the  most  southern  Brazilian  settlements — 
a  distance  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles — there  is  no  habitation  of 
civilized  man.  Various  tribes  of  Indians  were  met  with  at  dif- 
ferent points,  with  some  of  whom  we  'held  a  talli,'  and  parted  on 
such  friendly  terms,  because  of  the  numerous  presents  we  made 
them  in  trinkets  and  tobacco,  that  they  became  somewhat  trouble- 
some, following  us  along  the  banks  on  horseback,  desirous  that  we 
should  repeat  the  visit  on  shore." 

This  was  the  first  steamer  that  ever  ploughed  the  upper  waters 
of  the  Paraguay.  The  arrival  of  the  "Water-Witch  at  Coimbra 
(Brazil)  was  hailed  with  the  liveliest  demonstrations  of  joy,  and 
Lieutenant  Page  was  received  by  the  authorities  with  the  most 
marked  attention.  His  command,  owing  to  the  proper  permission 
from  the  Imperial  Government  arriving  too  late,  did  not  proceed 
higher  than  Corumba.  Lieutenant  Page  is,  however,  of  the  oj)inion 
that  Cuiba,  in  Mato  Grosso,  may  be  reached  by  small  steamers.  It 
is  hoped  that  this  energetic  and  intelligent  officer  may  yet  prose- 
cute his  surveys  for  the  benefit  of  the  world. 

It  is  interesting  to  reflect  that  while  the  American  navy  has 
been  to  a  great  extent,  for  nearly  fifty  years,  exempt  from  the  work 
of  war,  her  gallant  ofiicers  have  won  imperishable  laurels  in  the 
nobler  pui'suits  of  scientific  investigation.  The  names  of  Bache, 
Lieut.  Strain,  Kane,  Gillis,  Page,  and  the  scores  who  have  been 
employed  on  coast-surve3-s,  have  done  more  to  benefit  their  country 
and  mankind  than  all  the  naval  battles  of  the  nineteenth  century. 
Since  these  pages  were  commenced,  three  whose  names  are  men- 
tioned above  have  slept  the  "last  sleep."  When  scientific  attain- 
ments, self-sacrifice,  and  suffering  shall  be  connected  together,  the 
hero  of  the  Arctic  regions  and  the  hero  of  the  Isthmus  of  Darien 
will  not  be  forgotten  by  the  thousands  who  shall  come  after  us. 
To  both  may  be  applied  the  language  of  Mr.  George  Eipley,  of  New 
York,  in  regard  to  Kane: — "The  admirable  qualities  which  they 
displayed  in  the  discharge  of  their  official  duties  are  a  sui-e  pledge 
of  permanent  fame.  Courage,  wisdom,  fertility  of  resource,  power 
of  endurance,  and  devotion  to  an  idea,  are  stamped  upon  their 


460  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

intrepid  career."  As  Dr.  Kane,  though  bent  on  an  errand  of  mercy, 
was  the  first  American  to  attempt  "to  lift  the  dead  veil  of  mystery 
which  hangs  over  the  Arctic  regions,"  so  Lieutenant  Strain,  for  the 
benefit  of  mankind,  was  the  first  American  to  explore  the  wonder- 
ful rivers  of  that  region  of  fabulous  fertility  in  the  South. 

^Vbile  a  midshipman,  he  obtained  leave  to  enter  the  interior  of 
Brazil,  and,  accompanied  by  a  small  party  of  brave  spirits,  (among 
whom  was  Dr.  Eeinhart,)  he  exploi-ed  the  province  of  San  Paulo, 
tracing  the  rivers  Tiete  and  Paranai:)anema  nearly  to  their  conflu- 
ence with  the  Parana.  The  dangers  and  hardships  he  encountered 
in  this  expedition  were  only  inferior  to  those  of  the  more  recent 
and  better-known  expedition  to  the  Isthmus  of  Darien.  His  ser- 
vices as  an  explorer  were  suitably  acknowledged  by  the  Imperial 
Government;  and  in  Brazil  I  have  heard  high  encomiums  on  Lieu- 
tenant Strain,  and  in  his  death  science  has  lost  a  noble  son.* 

It  would  be  an  interesting  expedition,  and  great  good  would  be 
accomplished,  if  the  Government  of  Brazil  would  consent  to  send 
out,  with  England,  France,  and  the  United  States,  a  joint  scientific 
commission,  to  explore  thoroughly  the  whole  district  of  Central 
Brazil,  from  Bolivia  to  Bahia,  with  particular  reference  to  the 
navigability  of  the  waters,  that  here  interlace,  of  those  vast  rivers 
which  irrigate  such  a  wide  extent  of  territory. 

In  the  northern  part  of  this  province  are  countless  hosts  of 
monkeys,  mostly  of  the  howling  kind.     M.  de  Castelnau,  on  the 


*  The  cnreer  of  this  ofiBcer  after  leaving  Brazil  may  be  briefly  stated : — From 
South  America  he  went  to  California.  "In  1849,  returning  from  the  Pacific,  he 
crossed  the  continent  from  Valparaiso  to  Buenos  Ayres,  of  which  he  published  a 
narrative  entitled  '  The  Cordillera  and  Pampa.'  Subsequently,  he  was  attached  to 
the  Mexican  Boundary-Commission.  An  African  cruise  followed  his  return  from 
Mexico,  and  not  long  after  he  led  the  fatal  expedition  across  the  Isthmus  of  Darien, 
which  cost  so  many  valuable  lives,  and  undermined  the  health,  and  has  now  caused 
the  death,  of  the  leader.  Rallying  from  the  effects  of  the  hardships  of  that  adven- 
ture, he  accompanied  Lieutenant  Berryman  in  the  voyage  of  the  steamer  Arctic  to 
sound  the  course  of  the  Atlantic  telegraph.  This  was  his  last  public  service. 
But  his  energetic  spirit  could  not  brook  inaction,  and  at  the  time  of  his  death  he 
was  on  his  way  to  join  the  same  ship  from  which  he  had  been  detached  three  years 
before  to  examine  the  Darien  route ;  and  on  the  same  spot  where  he  won  so  high  a 
name  among  American  explorers  he  yielded  up  his  life." — Providence  (R.I.)  Journal 


A  Race  of  Indians  "avith  Tails." 


461 


head-waters  of  the  Amazon,  found  the  written  authentic  account 
of  a  padre  of  very  early  times,  who  affirmed  that  there  was  here 
a  race  of  Indians  which 
he  had  seen,  who  were 
dwarfish  in  size  and  had 
tails.  He  says  tliat  one 
was  brought  to  him  whose 
caudal  extremity  was 
"the  thickness  of  a  finger, 
and  half  a  palm  long,  and 
covered  with  a  .  smooth 
and  naked  skin;"  and 
also  he  further  sets  his 
seal  to  the  fact  that  the 
Indian  cut  his  own  tail 
once  a  month,  as  he  did 
not  like  to  have  it  too 
long.  Was  not  the  padre's 
dwarf  the  Brachyurus  cal- 
vus,  with  the  short,  ball- 
like tail,  discovered  a  few 
years  ago  in  this  region 
by  Mr.  Deville  ? 

Cuiaba,  the  capital  of 
Ma  to  G  rosso,  has  a 
healthy  location  upon  a 
river  of  the  same  name. 

Although  called  a  city,  it  is,  in  fact,  but  a  village.  Its  houses  are 
nearly  all  built  of  taipa,  with  floors  of  hardened  clay  or  bricK. 
The  region  immediately  surrounding  it  is  said  to  be  so  abundant 
in  gold,  that  some  grains  of  it  may  be  found  wherever  the  earth 
is  excavated.  It  is  about  one  hundred  .miles  from  the  diamond- 
district. 

Its  soil  is  fertile,  but  it  almost  universally  lacks  cultivation.  In 
Bome  parts  particular  attention  is  given  to  grazing;  but,  gene- 
rally speaking,  the  inhabitants  make  no  exertions  to  produce  any 
thing  that  is  not  requisite  for  their  own  consumption.  Indeed, 
they  do  not  always  reach  the  limit  of  their  own  necessities.     Iho 


THE      BALD-HEADED      BRACHYURUS. 


462  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

province  abounds  in  gold  and  diamonds;  but,  owing  to  the  lack 
of  skill  employed  in  searching  for  them,  the  products  of  either,  for 
latter  years,  have  been  very  small.  What  is  gained  by  the  miners 
and  the  garimpeiros,  as  the  diamond-seekers  are  called,  together 
with  a  certain  quantity  of  ipecacuanha,  constitute  the  M'hole 
amount  of  exports  from  the  province.  These  articles  are  gene- 
rally sent  on  mule-back  to  Eio  de  Janeiro,  where  manufactured 
goods  in  return  are  purchased  and  sent  back  over  the  tedious  land- 
route. 

The  first  printing-press  ever  seen  in  Mato  Grosso  was  procured 
at  the  expense  of  the  Government  in  1838.  In  matters  of  educa- 
tion this  2:)rovince  is  exceedingly  backward.  The  schools  are  not 
only  few  in  number,  but  great  inconveniences  are  suffered  from  the 
lack  of  books,  paper,  and  nearly  every  other  material  essential  to 
elementary  education.  In  addition  to  this  low  and  unpromising 
state  of  education,  that  of  religion  appears,  from  the  reports  of 
successive  presidents  of  the  j^rovince,  to  be  still  worse.  There  are 
but  few  churches  in  existence:  not  more  than  half  of  these  are 
supplied  with  priests;  and  all,  without  great  expenses  in  repairing, 
will  ere  long  be  in  ruins. 

Goyaz  and  Mato  Grosso  may  be  ranked  together  in  the  relation 
they  bear  to  the  other  portions  of  the  Empire  and  of  the  world. 
Both  were  originally  settled  by  gold-hunters.  The  lure  of  treasure 
led  adventurers  to  bury  themselves  in  the  deep  recesses  of  these 
interminable  forests.  Their  seai'ch  was  successful.  Their  most 
eager  avarice  was  satiated.  But  agriculture  was  neglected;  peo- 
ple could  not  eat  gold,  and  in  many  instances  those  who  were  able 
to  count  their  treasure  by  arrobas  were  in  the  greatest  want  of  the 
necessities  of  life.  The  ground  was  not  cultivated;  nothing  was 
exported;  no  flourishing  towns  were  built.  The  gold-fever,  abating, 
left  society  in  a  state  so  enfeebled  that  we  see  its  effects  even  to- 
day. Gold  and  diamonds  hindered  the  progress  of  Goyaz  and 
Mato  Grosso  more  than  their  dense  forests  and  great  distance 
from  the  sea-shore.  It  is  instructive  to  look  at  the  widely-different 
results  of  the  mineral  and  vegetable  riches  of  the  Empire.  After 
Mexico  and  Peru,  (before  the  discovery  of  Australian  and  Califor- 
nian  treasure,)  Brazil  furnished  the  largest  quantum  of  hard  cur- 
rency to  the  commercial  world.     Here  the  diamond,  the  ruby,  the 


Difference  in  Results  from  Diamonds  and  Coffee.  463 

sapphire,  the  topaz,  and  the  rainbow-tinted  opal  sparkle  in  their 
native  sj)lendor.  And  yet  so  much  greater  are  the  riches  of  the 
agi-icultural  productions  of  the  Empire,  that  the  annual  sum  re- 
ceived for  the  single  article  of  coffee  surpasses  the  results  of  eighty 
years'  yield  of  the  diamond-mines.  From  1740  to  1822,  (the  era 
of  independence,)  a  i)eriod  which  was  the  most  prosperous  in 
diamond-mining,  the  number  of  carats  obtained  were  two  hundred 
and  thirty-two  thousand,  worth  not  quite  three  and  a  half  millions 
pounds  sterling.  The  exports  of  coffee  from  Eio  alone  during  the 
year  1851  amounted  to  £4,756,794!  And  when  we  add  the  sums 
obtained  for  the  other  great  staples  of  sugar,  cotton,  seringa, 
(or  the  India  rubber,)  dye-woods,  and  the  productions  of  the  im- 
mense herds  of  the  South,  we  have,  it  is  true,  a  better  idea  of  the 
sources  of  wealth  in  Brazil,  but  only  a  faint  conception  of  the  vast 
resources  of  this  fertile  Empire. 

Having  thus  glanced  at-  all  the  interior  provinces  except 
Amazonas,  we  next  turn  our  attention  to  the  maritime  provinces 
north  of  Eio  de  Janeiro. 

Note  for  1S66. — The  war  with  Paraguay  (which  was  a  piece  of  unparalleled 
barbarity  on  the  part  of  President  Lopez,  son  of  the  old  Dictator)  brought  untold 
misery  upon  the  thinly-settled  population.  Until  November,  1864,  steamers  plied 
up  to  Cuyaba,  and  the  products  of  the  country,  chiefly  ipecacuanha,  descended  the 
river  and  were  thus  brought  to  market.  All  commerce,  though  never  considerable, 
has  been  checked.  Probably  the  largest  purchaser  in  the  world  of  ipecacuanha 
and  of  Brazilian  sarsaparilla  is  the  well-known  Dr.  J.  C.  Ayer,  of  Lowell,  Massa- 
chusetts, whose  remedies  are  found  over  the  whole  world.  In  ISGO,  Brazilian 
officials  descended  the  rivers  Araguaya  and  Tocantins  to  Para  in  the  old  style, 
(see  page  456.)  Though  there  are  many  difficulties,  these  great  rivers  may  yet 
be  made  to  serve  as  highways  from  an  interior  almost  closed  to  the  outer  world. 


CFAPTEE  XXIY. 

CAPE     FRIO — ■WRECK    OF    THE     FRIGATE     THETIS CAMPOS — ESPIRITO    SANTO ABORI- 
GINES  ORIGIN      OF      INDIAN     CIVILIZATION THE     PALM-TREE    AND     ITS      USES 

THE     TDPI-GUARANI — THE      LINGOA      GERAL FEROCITY     OF       THE     AYMORES THE 

CITY    OF    BAHIA PORTERS — CADEIRAS HISTORY   OF    BAHIA CARAMURU ATTACK 

OF    THE    HOLLANDERS MEASURES    TAKEN    BY    SPAIN THE     CITY     BETAKEN THE 

DUTCH    IN    BRAZIL SLAVE-TRADE SOCIABILITY     OF     BAHIA MR.   GILLMER,    AME- 
RICAN   CONSUL THE     HUMMING-BIRD WHALE-FISHERY — AMERICAN    CEMETERY 

HENRY     MARTYN VISIT    TO    MONTSERRAT VIEW    OF    THE    CITY THE     EMPEROR's 

BIRTHDAY MEDICAL     SCHOOL PUBLIC    LIBRARY IMAGE-FACTORY THE    WON- 
DERFUL    IMAGE      OF      ST.    ANTHONY — NO       MIRACLE — ST.   ANTHONY     A     COLONEL 

VISIT    TO    VALEN9A DARING    NAVIGATION IN  PURIS  NATURALIBUS  —  THE     FAC- 
TORY    AND     COLONEL     CARSON AMERICAN     MACHINERY SKILFUL     NEGROES 

RETURN    HOME — COMMERCE    WITH    THE    UNITED    STATES. 

To  reach  the  Brazilian  North  by  sea  has  been  no  difficult  task 
since  1839.  At  Eio  de  Janeiro,  scarcely  three  days  elapse  unless 
some  steamer,  either  foreign  or  nngional,  embarks  for  the  city  of 
Bahia.  Entering  one  of  these,  in  a  few  hours  we  will  be  abreast 
of  Cape  Frio,  which  huge  oval  mass  of  granite  marks  the  spot 
where  the  line  of  coast  turns  to  the  north  and  forms  nearly  a 
right  angle. 

Some  years  ago,  the  English  frigate  Thetis,  bound  homeward  at 
the  expiration  of  a  cruise  in  the  Pacific,  was  wrecked  upon  Cape 
Frio.  This  vessel,  on  leaving  the  harbor  of  Eio,  where  she  had 
touched,  encountered  foul  weather.  After  strug2;lino:  a^-ainst  it 
till  it  was  presumed  she  had  cleared  the  coast,  she  bore  aAvay  on 
her  course.  The  darkness  of  the  night  was  impenetrable,  and,  the 
wind  being  strong,  the  ship  was  running  eight  or  ten  knots  an 
hour,  when,  without  the  slightest  warning  or  apprehension  of 
danger  by  any  one  on  board,  she  dashed  upon  this  rocky  bulwark. 
The  officers  and  crew,  in  the  shock  and  consternation  of  the  mo- 
ment, had  barely  time  to  transfer  themselves  to  contiguous  por- 
464 


EspiRiTO  Santo.  465 

tions  of  the  promoBtory,  before  the  shivered  frigate  went  to  the 
bottom.  Most  of  those  on  board  were  saved  by  di-awing  them- 
selves up,  on  shelves  of  the  rock,  out  of  the  reach  of  the  waves, 
where,  in  the  most  constrained  position,  they  were  forced  to  remain 
throughout  the  dismal  night. 

A  good  light-house  has  since  been  constructed  upon  Cape  Frio, 
which  at  the  present  time  renders  the  approach  of  the  navigator 
nearly  as  safe  by  night  as  it  is  by  day.  I 

We  pass  the  Parahiba  Eiver,  twenty  miles  from  the  mouth  of  1 
which  is  the  flourishing  town  of  Campos,  formerly  called  S. ' 
Salvador.  The  vast  region  surrounding  this  town  is  known  as  the 
Campos  dos  Goyatakazes,  or  plains  of  the  Goyatakaz  Indians,  the 
aboriginal  inhabitants.  It  is  a  rich  tract  of  country,  and  has,  for 
beauty,  been  compared  to  the  Elysian  fields.  Campos  is  situated 
on  the  western  bank  of  the  river.  The  town  has  regular  and  well- 
paved  streets,  with  some  fine  houses.  Its  commerce  is  extensive, 
employing  a  vast  number  of  coasting-smacks  to  export  its  sugar, 
its  rum,  its  coffee,  and  its  rice.  The  sugars  of  Campos  are  said  by 
some  to  be  the  best  in  Brazil. 

Not  many  leagues  beyond  the  disemboguement  of  the  Parahiba 
we  sail  along  the  coast  of  Espirito  Santo.  This  province  embraces 
the  old  captaincy  of  the  same  name,  and  part  of  that  of  Porto 
Seguro.  Although  this  portion  of  the  coast  was  that  discovered 
by  Cabral  and  settled  by  the  first  Donataries,  yet  it  is  still  but 
thinly  inhabited,  and  has  not  made  the  improvements  that  may  bo 
found  in  most  other  parts.  Its  soil  is  fertile,  and  especially  adapted 
to  the  cultivation  of  sugarcane,  together  with  most  of  the  inter- 
tropical productions.  Its  forests  furnish  precious  woods  and  useful 
drugs,  and  its  waters  abound  with  valuable  fish.  But  vast  regions 
of  its  territory  are  only  roamed  by  savage  tribes,  who  still  make 
occasional  plundering  incursions  upon  the  settlements.  Surveys 
have  recently  been  instituted  upon  the  rivers  Doce  and  S.  Ma- 
theus,  and  it  is  thought  practicable  to  render  those  streams  navi- 
gable to  small  steamers.  Organized  companies  have  had  these 
enterprises  in  charge,  and  propose  to  open  new  and  direct  means 
of  transport  between  the  coast  and  the  province  of  Minas-Geraes. 
Should  this  undertaking  succeed,  it  will  be  of  great  imj^ortance, 

not  only  to  the  provinces  of  Espirito  Santo  and  j\Iinas-Geraes,  but 

30 


466  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

also  to  the  city  of  Babia,  to  which  large  quantities  of  the  produce 
exported  would  be  directly  conveyed. 

The  distance  from  Eio  de  Janeiro  to  Babia  is  about  eight  hundred 
miles.  There  is  no  large  city  or  flourishing  port  on  the  coast,  nor 
is  there  a  single  direct  or  beaten  road  through  the  interior.  The 
onh'  author  who  has  ever  travelled  over  this  portion  of  Brazil  by 
land  is  Prince  Maximilian  of  Neuwied.  Few  naturalists  have 
exhibited  more  enthusiasm,  and  few  travellers  more  persevering 
industry-,  than  did  His  Highness  in  passing  through  these  wild  and 
uncultivated  regions.  It  is  difficult  to  form  an  idea  of  the  impedi- 
ments, annoyances,  and  dangers  which  he  had  to  surmount.  But 
Buch  was  the  interest  and  cheerfulness  with  which  the  Prince  per- 
formed his  journeys,  that  he  described  his  condition  b}^  saying, 
"Although  scratched  and  maimed  by  thorns,  soaked  by  the  rains, 
exhausted  by  incessant  pei'spiration  caused  by  the  heat,  never- 
theless the  traveller  is  transported  in  view  of  the  magnificent 
vegetation."  His  travels  in  Brazil  were  accomplished  between  the 
years  1815  and  1818,  and  the  rich  and  interesting  work  in  which 
he  o-ave  their  results  to  the  world  furnishes  up  to  the  present  day 
the  best  account  we  have  of  the  scener}^  and  of  the  people  on  this 
section  of  the  coast.  No  pai-t  of  Brazil  has  been  less  agitated  by 
the  revolutions  of  the  last  half-century.  Under  the  present  regime, 
there  has  been  a  gradual  improvement;  yet,  up  to  1839,  the  whole 
province  of  Espirito  Santo  contained  not  a  single  printing-press, 
and  many  of  its  churches,  built  with  great  expense  by  the  earl}' 
settlers,  are  going  to  decay.  But  when  we  look  at  recent  educa- 
tional statistics,  we  find  that  there  is  progress  even  in  this  quiet 
corner  of  the  world.  In  1839,  there  were  but  seven  primary 
schools  in  the  province;  but  in  1855,  the  Minister  of  the  Empire 
reports  twenty-nine  sustained  by  the  Imperial  fund,  to  say  nothing 
of  those  conducted  by  provincial  and  private  enterprise.  Various 
internal  improvements  are  contemplated;  and  we  hope  the  day  is 
not  far  distant  when  Espirito  Santo  shall  have  her  fertile  soil, 
which  is  so  well  adapted  to  the  sugar  and  coffee  plants,  teeming 
■  with  cultivation. 

Frequent  allusion  has  been  made  to  the  aboriginal  tribes  of  Brazil. 
Their  histoiy  would  fill  many  volumes.  The  same  interest  which 
attaches  to  the  Incas  and  their  subjects,  to  the  Montezumas  and 


Origin  of  Indian  Civilization.  467 

the  millions  over  whom  they  lorded  it,  does  not  beloi.g  to  the  tribes 
or  nations  which  inhabited  Brazil  at  its  discover;}.  The  few  re- 
mains of  antiquity  which  have  been  reported  in  the  Xorth  are  doubt- 
less monuments  of  the  Empire  of  the  Incas  east  of  the  Andes. 

That  erudite  and  accurate  student  of  Indian  antiquities,  Mr. 
Schoolcraft,  has,  I  think,  clearly  shown  that  the  germ  of  Mexican 
civilization  was  the  cultivation  of  the  maize,  which,  to  produce  in 
quantities  and  in  perfection,  requires,  at  least  for  some  months, 
continued  labor.  Thus  the  ancient  Mexicans,  if  they  were  even 
for  a  short  time  nomadic,  would  be  recalled  to  the  spot  whence 
they  drew  their  principal  sustenance.  The  want  of  rain  cither 
called  forth  eflPorts  for  artificial  irrigation,  or  for  the  construction 
of  floating  gardens  on  the  lakes  which  gem  the  great  Valle}'  of 
Azteca.  These  could  not  be  well  abandoned  without  the  greatest 
sacrifice,  and  thus  there  grew  up  insensibly  a  community, — a  settle- 
ment. If  the  early  history  of  the  great  Peruvian  nation,  which 
numbered  more  than  three  times  the  population  of  Mexico,  could 
be  known,  we  should  doubtless  find  that  their  civilization  originated 
in  endeavoring  to  procure  food  by  the  cultivation  of  the  rainless 
and  arid  Pacific  sea-coast,  by  resorting  to  artificial  irrigation. 
When  strength  of  mind  and  skill  were  developed,  they  could  push 
their  way  into  a  more  favored  region,  driving  back  other  tribes. 
Thus,  in  time,  they  extended  their  conquests,  their  comparative 
civilization,  and  their  Sabean  religion  over  a  territor^^  comprising 
the  country  from  the  Pacific  coast  on  the  west  to  the  eastern  slope 
of  the  Andes,  and  from  the  equator  to  Valparaiso. 

The  tribes  of  Brazil,  however,  from  the  natural  irrigation,  and 
from  the  spontaneous  products  of  the  forests  and  plains,  had  no 
motives  to  call  forth  that  mental  effort  for  existence  which  often 
results  in  civilization.  They  were  not  settled;  neither  were  they 
habitually  and  widely  nomadic,  each  tribe  having  certain  limits, 
where  it  remained  until  driven  out  by  a  superior  force.  The 
plantain,  the  banana,  the  cashew,  the  yam, — above  all,  the  man- 
dioca,  and  the  more  than  two  hundred  species  of  palms, — furnished 
them  food,  drink,  and  raiment.  The  little  cultivation  to  which' 
they  attended  was  that  of  the  mandioca-root,  which,  when  planted 
in  burned  ground,  thrives  among  the  stumps  and  roots  of  trees 
without  further  husbandry. 


468 


Brazil  and  the  iiRAziLiAxs. 


But    the    most    generous  gift  (to 

which  alhision  has  been  made)  thai 

bountiful  Providence  gave  Brazil  is 

the  palm-tree.     The  traveller 

in  the  interior  provinces  and 

sv       upon  the  sea-coast  away  from 


%    the    cities    is    struck   by  the 
very  great  application  of  this  "Prince 
of  the   Vegetable   Kingdom"    to   the 
wants    of    man.      And    if    the    prince 
plays  so  important  a  part  in  the  do- 
naestic    economy   of    Europeans    and 
their   descendants,   his   highness   was 
and  is  servant  for  genei'al  house  and 
field    work   among   the  aborigines  of 
Brazil.     To  this  day  it  furnishes  the 
Amazonian    Indians    house,    raiment, 
food,  drink,  salt,  fishing-tackle,  hunt- 
8'^y     ing-implements,    and    musical   instruments,  and 
almost  every  necessary  of  life  except  flesh.   Take 
tiie  hut  of  an  Uaupe  Indian  on  one  of  the  affluents 
of  the  Kio  Negro.     The  rafters  are  formed  by 
the  straight  and  uniform  palm  called  Leopoldina 
pulchra;    the   roof  is  composed  of   the 
leaves  of  the  Carana  palm;    the  doors 
and   framework    of  the  split  stems  of 
the Iriartea  exhoriza.  The  wide 
bark    which    grows    beneath 
the  fruit  of  another  species  is 
sometimes  used  as  an  apron. 
The    Indian's    hammock,    his 
bow-strings,   and   his   fishing- 
lines  are  woven  and  twisted 
from   the   fibrous  portions   of 
difterent   palms.      The    comb 
with  which  the  males  of  some 
of    the     tribes    adorn     their 
heads  is  made  from  the  hard 


v:>\^ 


JAR'.-ASSU     PALM     (LEOPOLDINA     MAJOR.) 


The  Brazilian  Savages  Cannibals.  4:fi9 

wood  of  a  palm;  and  the  fish-hooks  are  made  from  the  spines  of 
the  same  tree.  The  Indian  makes,  from  the  fibrous  spathes  of  the 
Manicaria  saccifera,  caps  for  his  head,  or  cloth  in  which  he  wraps 
his  most  treasured  feather-ornaments.  From  eight  species  he  can 
obtain  intoxicating  liquor;  from  many  more  (not  including  the 
cocoanut-palin,  found  on  the  sea-coast)  he  receives  oil  and  a  harvest 
of  fruit;  and  from  one  (the  Jard  assu)  he  procures,  by  burning  the 
large  clusters  of  small  nuts,  a  substitute  for  salt.  From  another  he 
forms  a  cylinder  for  squeezing  the  mandioca-pulp,  because  it  resists 
for  a  long  time  the  action  of  the  poisonous  juice.  The  great  woody 
spathes  of  the  Maximiliana  regia  are  "used  by  hunters  to  cook  meat 
in,  as,  with  water  in  them,  they  stand  the  fire  well:"  (Wallace.) 
These  spathes  are  also  employed  for  carrying  earth,  and  sometimes 
for  cradles.  Arrows  are  made  from  the  spinous  processes  of  the 
Patawd,  and  lances  and  heavy  harpoons  are  made  from  the  Iriatea 
ventricosa;  the  long  blowpipe  through  which  the  Indian  sends  the 
poisoned  arrow  that  brings  down  the  bright  birds,  the  fearless 
peccari,  and  even  the  thick-skinned  tapii*,  is  furnished  by  the 
Setigera  palm:  the  great,  bassoon-like -musical  instrumeijts  used  in 
the  "devil-worship"  of  the  Uaupes  are  also  made  from  the  stems 
of  palm-trees 

One  would  have  supposed  that  a  people  thus  supplied  with 
almost  every  necessity  of  life  would  have  exhibited  gentleness 
and  docility,  and  would  have  been  among  the  most  peaceful  of  the 
denizens  of  the  New  World.  Ou  the  contrary,  the  aborigines  of 
Brazil  were  a  warlike,  ferocious  people,  unskilled  in  the  usual  arts 
of  peace,  and  were  of  the  most  vengeful  and  bloody  character. 
Many  of  these  tribes  were  cannibals:  some  ate  their  enemies  in 
grand  ceremonial;  others  made  war  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining 
human  food;  and  others  still  devoured  their  relatives  and  friends 
as  a  mark  of  honor  and  distinguished  consideration.  At  this  day, 
in  the  remote  interior,  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Amazon,  there 
exist,  in  as  wild  a  state  as  when  South  America  was  first  dis- 
covered, tribes  whose  anthropophagous  propensities  are  as  fully 
indulged  as  if  the  European  had  never  placed  foot  upon  the  conti- 
nent. We  would  feel  inclined  to  discredit  the  accounts  of  all  the 
early  navigators  who  touched  upon  the  Brazilian  coasts  in  regard 
to  the  cannibalism  of  the  natives,  were  it  not  that  it  is  fully  con- 


470 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


firmed  at  the  present  day  :  forty  days'  journey  (as  travellers  travel) 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon  up  the  river  Purus,  arc  found  the 
Catauixis,  and  near  them  otlicr  tribes  of  Indians,  who,  Mr.  Wallace 
(a  thorough  and  truthful  explorer)  says,  "are  cannibals,  killing 
and  eatin"-  Indians  of  other  tribes,  and  they  preserve  the  flesh 
thus  obtained  smoked  and  dried." 

So  far  as  can  be  ascertained,  there  were  moi-e  than  one  hundred 
difl'erent  tribes  inhabiting  Brazil  at  the  discovery  of  South  America. 

The  large  majority  of  these  belonged 
to  one  race,  and  were  called,  upon 
the  sea-coast,  Tupi  Tupinaki,  Tupi- 
nambi,  or  something  similar,  in  the 
way  of  a  compound  of  the  root  Tup. 
In  the  South,  uj)on  the  head-w^atera 
of  the  La  Plata,  they  were  called 
Guaraui.  They  were  most  curiously 
situated,  dwelling  in  a  narrow  belt 
ujDon  the  whole  sea-coast  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Amazon  down  to  the 
present  province  of  S.  Paulo.  Here 
they  extended  inland  to  the  Para- 
guay, and  up  its  waters  and  across 
the  interlacings  of  the  La  Platan  and  Amazonian  sources,  where,  it 
is  surmised,  they  had  their  origin  :  thence  they  were  found  upon 
the  ]\[armora,  the  Madeira,  the  Tapajoz,  and  other  rivers,  down  the 
Amazon  to  the  great  island  of  Marajo.  This  people  spoke  in  effect 
the  same  language,  called  by  Dr.  Latham,  in  his  treatise  on  the 
languages  of  the  Amazon,  the  Tupi-Guarani.  This  learned  philolo- 
gist says  that  as  far  northward  as  the  equator  and  as  far  south  as 
Buenos  Ayres  the  Tupi-Guarani  language  was  to  be  found.  Now, 
there  were,  surrounded  by  this  widely-spread  race,  numerous  tribes 
of  other  aborigines,  who  spoke  a  class  of  languages  totally  distinct 
and  different.  These  different  tribes,  it  was  ascertained  b}-  the 
Jesuits  and  traders,  comjirehended,  to  a  certain  extent,  the  Tupi- 
Guarani  tongue,  though  their  own  languages  were  so  unlike  that 
they  scared}^  had  one  word  in  common.  The  priests,  the  traders, 
and  the  slave-hunters  pushed  their  way  through  these  tribes,  and 
each,  in  their  widely-different  mission,  aided  in  the  formation  of  a 


BOTACUDO   DANDY. 


i 


The  Ferocity  of  the  Aymores. 


471 


NATIVE      PLUG-UGLY. 


remarkable  language,  called  the  Lingoa  Geral  or  Lingoa  Franca, 
which  was  the  common  vehicle  of  communicatiou,  from  the  Orinoco 
to  the  La  Plata,  among  people  whose  lan- 
guages remain  unknown.  The  trader, 
the  scientific  explorer,  and  the  Brazilian 
Government  official,  at  this  day  have 
their  intercourse  with  the  savages  of 
the  Japura,  the  Parana,  the  Chingu, 
and  the  Araguaia,  hy  the  Lingoa  Geral. 
The  basis  of  this,  as  already  observed,  is 
the  Guarani  or  Tupi-Guarani  tongue.* 

These  surrounded  tribes,  so  to  speak, 
occasionally,  though  rarel}',  succeeded 
in  reaching  the  coast.     Thus,  the  Ay- 
mores — a  cannibal  tribe  who  acquired 
such  a  teri'ible   celebrity — made   their 
appearance  ujDon  the  sea-shoi-e  a  long  time  after  the  discovery  of 
Brazil.      The   coast-tribes   regarded   them  with   horror,  and  con- 
sidered them  as  irrational  beings, 
ignorant    of    the    construction    of 
huts  and  of  the   art  of   adorning 
their  persons  with  the  rich  plumage 
of  the  })arrot  and  the  gay -painted 
macaw.      They   had  a   still    more 
distinctive  characteristic,  that  con- 
sisting in  an  unconquerable  fear  of 
water,  which    impeded   them  from 
following  their  enemies  when  they 
swam  a  river  or   plunged   into   a 
lake.    They  assaulted  Porto  Seguro 
and  the  Ilheos  with  such  ferocity 
that    Bellegarde    says    that    labor 
ceased  on  all  the  plantations  for  want  of  workmen  who  had  gone 
to  give  them  battle.     They  were  afterward  routed  and  nearly  all 


LIP-ORNAMENT     OF     THE     SOUTH 
AMERICAN      INDIAN. 


*  Dr.  Latham  says,  "With  two  exceptions,  the  distribution  of  the  numerous  dia- 
lects and  subdialects  of  the  Tupi-Guarani  tongue  is  the  most  remarkable  in  the 
world, — the  exceptions  being  the  Malay  and  the  Athabascan  tongues." 


472 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


dispersed,  and  there  onlj  remain  as  their  descendants  the  Bota> 
cudos,  a  few  hundred  of  whom  still — now  peacefully — wander  upon 
the  banks  of  the  rivers  Doce  and  Bellemonte.  These  Indians, 
like  many  of  the  savages  of  South  America,  wear  the  most  absurd 
ornaments  of  light  wood,  (the  aloe,)  which  they  at  pleasure  insert 
and  take  out  from  slits  in  their  ears  and  lips. 

But  the  question  naturally  arises.  What  have  become  of  the 
numerous  tribes  once  inhabiting  the  sea-coast  and  those  provinces 
where  now  a  civilized  population  most  abound  ?  Where  are  the 
Tupi-Guarani  ?    Many  wandered  to  remote  parts  of  the  Empire ; 


fr^^ik 


A   BOTACUDO   FAMILY  ON   THE   MARCH. 


European  diseases  and  vices,  as  well  as  war  and  the  march  of 
civilization,  swept  them  from  their  places.  The  Guarani  of  South 
Brazil,  under  the  Jesuits,  reached  a  certain  degree  of  advance- 
ment; but  the  inhuman  Portuguese  slave-hunter,  who  pushed  his 
way  as  far  as  Bolivia,  with  ruthless  hands  broke  up  the  missions 
and  led  them  into  captivity,  and  they  soon  melted  away  before 
cruel  taskmasters.  Of  the  Tupinambas  and  the  Tamoyos,  who 
dwelt  in  the  present  provinces  of  Eio  de  Janeiro  and  Minas- 
(leraes,  the  former  were  exterminated,  and  the  latter  were  so 
constantly  harassed  and  defeated  in  war  by  the  colonists,  that, 
though  for  a  long  time  wanting  unanimity,  they  finally  were  per- 
suaded by  the  eloquence  of  an  influential  and  eminent  chief  (Jappy 
A.8SU, — a  second  Orgetorix)  to  emigrate  to  the  distant  North, — 


Resemblance  of  the  Aborigines  to  the  Dtaks.     473 


then  more  than  three  thousand  miles  from  their  former  home, — 
and  they  settled  upon  the  southern  bank  of  the  Amazon,  from 
its  confluence  with  the  Madeira,  at  various  points,  down  to  the 
island  of  Marajo.  Their  descendants  are  found  this  day  in  tho 
(Country  between  the  Tapajoz  and  the  Madeira,  among  the  lakes 
and  channels  of  the  great  island  of  the  Tupinambas.  They  aro 
now  called  the  Mandrucus, —  the  naost 
warlike  Indians  of  South  America.  They 
live  in  villages,  in  each  of  which  is  a  for- 
tress Avhere  all  the  men  sleep  at  night. 
This  building  is  adorned  within  by  the 
dried  heads  of  their  enemies  decked 
with  feathers.  These  ghastly  orna- 
ments have  the  features  and  hair  very 
well  preserved. 

The  existing  tribes,  in  their  manners 
and  cust(mis,  are  closely  allied  to  our 
North  American  Indians,  with  this  ex- 
ception : — that  the  savages  south  of  the 
equator  have  all  been  found  to  be  ex- 
<;eedingly  deficient  in  any  religious  idea. 
None  of  them,  when  first  visited,  seemed 
to  have  the  faintest  conception  of  the 

Great  Spirit  which  so  strikingly  characterized  the  simple  theo- 
logy of  the  aborigines  of  the  Mississipj)i  and  the  St.  Lawrence. 
Attempts  to  civilize  them  have  proved  abortive  except  Avhen  they 
are  held  in  a  state  of  pupilage,  as  they  were  by  the  Jesuits,  or 
under  the  rigid  discipline  of  the  Brazilian  arm}'. 

The  curious  ethnologist  will  find  in  the  tribes  of  the  Upper 
Amazonian  waters  the  red  man  who  has  been  untouched  by 
civilization.  Mr.  Wallace  —  who  roamed  for  some  years  among 
these  sons  of  the  wilderness — has  given  us  much  information  in 
regard  to  them,  and  says  that  one  of  the  singular  facts  connected 
with  these  Indians  is  the  resemblance  which  exists  between  some  of 
their  customs  and  those  of  nations  most  remote  from  them.  Thus, 
the  gravatdna  or  blowpipe  reappears  in  the  sumpitan  of  Borneo ; 
the  great  houses  of  the  Uaupes  and  Mandrucus  closely  resemble 
those  of  the  Dyaks  of  the  same  country ;  while  many  small  baskets 


474  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

and  bamboo  boxes  from  Borneo  and  New  Guinea  are  so  similar  ir. 
their  form  and' construction  to  those  of  the  Amazonian  Indians 
tliat  they  might  be  supposed  to  belong  to  adjoining  tribes.  Then, 
again,  the  Mandruciis,  like  the  Dyaks,  take  the  heads  of  their 
enemies,  smoke-dry  them  with  equal  care,  preserving  the  skin  and 
hair  entire,  and  hang  them  up  around  their  houses.  In  Australia, 
the  throwing-stick  is  used;  and  on  a  remote  branch  of  the  Amazon 
(the  Purus)  we  see  a  tribe  of  Indians  (the  Purupurus)  differing 
from  all  around  them  in  substituting  for  the  bow  a  weapon  only 
found  in  such  a  i-cmote  portion  of  the  earth,  among  a  people  so 
distinct  from  them  in  almost  every  physical  characteristic. 

The  aboriginal  population  is  unknown,  and  there  are  only  about 
nineteen  thousand  catechized  or  Christian  Indians  reported  by  the 
Minister  of  the  Empire. 

On  the  ocean-route  from  Eio  to  Bahia  there  are  four  small  islands, 
called  the  Abrolhos,  ("Open  your  eyes,")  which  are  dangerous  pro- 
jections from  a  bank  of  rocks  that  exhibits  itself  occasionally 
between  the  seventeenth  and  twenty-fifth  degrees  of  south  lati- 
tude, at  a  distance  of  from  two  to  ten  leagues  from  the  mainland. 
Besides  these,  there  is  also  a  regular  reef  of  rocks  running  quite 
near  the  shore,  and  generally  parallel  with  it,  the  whole  distance 
from  Cape  Frio  to  Maranham.  Espirito  Santo,  Porto  Scguro, 
Ilheos,  and,  in  fact,  nearly  all  the  ports  along  the  entire  coast,  are 
formed  by  openings  through  this  reef. 

After  three  or  four  days'  steaming,  the  lower  exti'emity  of  the 
island  of  Itaparica,  with  its  numerous  palm-trees,  looms  up  in  the 
horizon,  and  but  a  short  time  elapses  before  the  eye  catches  the 
outline  of  tne  white  domes  and  towers  of  Bahia  San  Salvador,  the 
second  city  of  the  Empire. 

\yhen  the  steamer  arrived,  I  was,  through  the  kindness  of  Sr. 
Nobre,  the  guardd  mor,  immediately  transferred  to  the  shore  in  his 
Government-barge.  The  walls  of  a  circular  fort  rising  from  the 
bosom  of  the  water,  built  by  the  Dutch,  frown  upon  the  shipping; 
Avhile  the  fortresses  on  the  hills  command  the  harbor  and  the 
entire  cit}'. 

Landing  at  the  Custom-House,  I  passed  into  the  lower  town, 
with  its  narrow  streets  (in  some  places  there  is  but  one)  running 
parallel  to  the  water's  edge. 


The  City  of  Bahia.  475 

Along  the  Eua  da  Praya  are  located  the  Alfandega  and  the  Con- 
Bulado,  through  the  latter  of  which  all  home-jiroductions  must  pass 
preliminary  to  exportation.  Some  of  the  trapiches  (warehouses) 
near  by  ai'e  of  immense  extent,  and  are  said  to  be  among  the 
largest  in  the  world. 

Around  the  landing-places  cluster  hundreds  of  canoes,  launches, 
and  various  other  small  craft,  discharging  their  loads  of  fruit  and 
produce.  On  one  part  of  the  praya  is  a  wide  opening,  which  is 
used  as  a  market-place.  Xear  this  a  beautiful  spacious  modern 
building  has  been  constructed  for  an  exchange.  It  is  well  supplied 
with  newspapers  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  is  in  a  cool  and 
airy  situation.  The  principal  commercial  houses  are  situated  on 
tbe  Eua  Xova  do  Commercio,  and  these  compose  the  finest  blocks 
of  buildings  in  Brazil, — perhaps  in  all  South  America.  These 
edifices  would  adorn  the  business-portions  of  London,  Paris,  or 
New  York. 

The  lower  town  is  not  calculated  to  make  a  favorable  impression 
upon  the  stranger.  The  lofty  buildings  are  nearly  all  old,  although 
generally  of  a  cheerful  exterior.  The  streets  in  this  vicinity  are 
very  narrow,  uneven,  and  wretchedly  paved,  and  at  times  as  filthy 
as  those  of  Xew  York.  At  the  same  time  it  is  crowded  with  pedlars 
and  cari'iers  of  every  description.  You  here  become  acquainted 
with  one  peculiarity  of  Bahia.  Owing  to  the  irregularities  of  its 
surface  and  the  steepness  of  the  ascent  which  separates  the  upper 
town  from  the  lower,  it  does  not  admit  the  use  of  wheel-carriages. 
Not  even  a  cart  or  truck  is  to  be  seen  for  the  purpose  of  removing 
burdens  from  one  place  to  another.  Whatever  requires  change  of 
place  in  all  the  commerce  and  ordinar}'  business  of  this  seaport — 
and  it  is  second  in  size  and  importance  to  but  one  other  in  South 
America — must  pass  on  the  heads  and  shoulders  of  men.  Burdens 
are  here  more  frequently  carried  upon  the  shoulders,  since,  the 
principal  exports  of  the  city  being  sugar  in  cases  and  cotton  in 
bales,  it  is  impossible  that  they  should  be  borne  on  the  head  like 
bags  of  coffee. 

Immense  numbers  of  tall,  athletic  negroes  are  seen  moving  in 
pairs  or  gangs  of  four,  six,  or  eight,  with  their  loads  suspended 
between  them  on  heavy  poles.  Numbers  more  of  their  fellows  are 
Been  sitting  upon  their  poles,  braiding  straw,  or  lying  about  the 


476 


Brazil  and  tue  Brazilians. 


alleys  and  corners  of  the  streets  asleep,  reminding  one  of  black 
snakes  coiled  up  in  the  sunshine.  The  sleepers  generallj'  have 
some  sentinel  ready  to  call  them  when  the}-  are  wanted  for  busi- 
ness, and  at  the  given  signal  they  rouse  up,  like  the  elephant  to  bis 
burden.  Like  the  coft'ec-carriers  of  Eio,  they  often  sing  and  shout 
as  they  go;  but  their  gait  is  necessarily  slow  and  measured,  re- 
sembling a  dead-march  rather  than  the  double-quick  step  of  theii 
Fluminensian  colleagues.  Another  class  of  negroes  are  devoted  to 
carrying  passengers  in  a  species  of  sedan-chair  called  cadeiras. 


:^" 


PORTERS      OF      BAHIA. 


It  is  indeed  a  toilsome  and  often  a  dangerous  task  for  a  whito 
person  to  ascend  on  foot  the  bluffs  on  which  stands  the  cidade  alta, 
particularly  when  the  powerful  rays  of  the  sun  are  pouring,  with- 
out mitigation,  upon  the  head.  No  omnibus  or  cab  can  be  found 
to  do  him  service.  In  accordance  with  this  state  of  things,  he 
finds  near  ever}'  corner  or  place  of  public  resort  a  long  row  of  cur- 
tained cadeiras,  the  bearers  of  which,  hat  in  hand,  crowd  around 
him  with  all  the  eagerness,  though  not  with  the  impudence,  of 
carriage-drivers  in  North  America,  saying,  "  Quer  cadeira,  Senhorf 
("Will  you  have  a  chair,  sir?")  When  he  has  made  his  selection, 
and  seated  himself  to  his  liking,  the  bearers  elevate  their  load  and 
march  along,  apparently  as  much  pleased  with  the  oiDportunity  of 


Cadeiras  and  thete,  Carriers. 


477 


^— '• 


J 


r-- 


carrying  a  passenger  as  he  is  with  the  chance  of  being  carried. 
To  keep  a  cadeira  or  two,  and  negroes  to  bear  them,  is  as  necessary 
for  a  family  in  Bahia  as  the  keeping  of  carriages  and  horses  is  else- 
where. The  livery  of  the  carriei'S,  and  the  expensiveness  of  tho 
curtaining  and  ornaments  of  the  cadeira,  indicate  the  rank  and 
style  which  the  familj^  maintains. 

Occasionally  you  will 
meet  aj^roud  Creole  Mina 

negress,  w^ho  rejoices  in  -r^r^^::^^  j^-^-i   ^.J 

the  name  'par  excdhnce 
of  the  Bahiana.  Her 
turban,  her  shawl,  her 
ornaments,  and  her 
elastic  step  in  the  heel- 
ed slipper,  display  a 
native  grace  unattain- 
able by  modern  fashion. 

I  regret  that  I  have 
no  sketch  of  Bahia  taken 
from  the  water, —  for 
from  that  point  the  city 
seems  truly  magnificent 
in  its  proportions;  but 
the  large  cut,  from  a 
daguerreotype,  gives  a 
view  of  the  religious 
metropolis  of  Brazil, 
stretching  on  its  ter- 
raced  hills   around   to 

Montserrat.  The  steep  ascent  on  which  we  see  tho  cadeira- 
carriers  is  the  same  np  which  Henry  Martyn  climbed  in  1805,  so 
graphically'  described  in  the  journal  incoi^porated  in  the  pages  of 
his  biography.  The  lower  city,  with  the  exception  of  the  Eua 
Nova  do  Commercio,  has  been  very  little  changed  since  the  visit 
of  that  devoted  missionary. 

Some  of  the  streets  between  the  upper  and  lower  towns  wind 
by  a  zigzag  course  along  ravines;  others  slant  across  an  almost 
perpendicular  bluff,  to  avoid,  as  much  as  possible,  its   st(;epnes8. 


THE     BAHIANA     NEGRESS. 


478  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Nor  is  the  surflice  level  when  you  have  ascended  to  the  summit. 
Not  even  Eome  can  boast  of  so  many  hills  as  are  here  clustered 
together,  forming  the  site  of  Bahia.  Its  extent  between  its 
extreme  limits — Eio  Vcrmelho  and  Montserrat — is  about  six  miles. 
The  city  is  nowhere  wide,  and  for  the  most  part  is  composed  of 
only  two  or  three  principal  streets.  The  direction  of  these 
changes  with  the  various  curves  and  angles  necessary'  to  preserve 
the  summit  of  the  promontory.  Frequent  openings  between  the 
houses  built  along  the  summit  exhibit  the  most  picturesque  views 
of  the  bay  on  the  one  hand  and  of  the  countr}^  on  the  other. 
The  aspect  of  the  city  is  antique.  Great  sums  have  been  expended 
in  the  construction  of  its  pavements, — more,  however,  with  a  view 
to  preserve  the  streets  from  injury  by  rain  than  to  furnish  roads 
for  an}^  kind  of  carriages.  Here  and  there  may  be  seen  an  ancient 
fountain  of  stonework,  placed  in  a  valley  of  greater  or  less  depth, 
to  serve  as  a  rendezvous  for  some  stream  that  trickles  down  the 
hill  above;  but  nowhere  is  there  any  important  aqueduct,  though 
recent  water-works,  with  steam-engines  manufactured  in  France, 
have  been  lately  erected  east  of  the  Noviciado,  which  will  furnish 
a  bountiful  supply  of  the  potable  element  to  the  city. 

In  contemplating  Bahia  from  the  theatre  (the  large  building  on 
the  high  terrace)  we  are  carried  back  to  the  eai"liest  periods  of  the 
colonial  history  of  Brazil.  The  old  round  foi't  in  the  midst  of  the 
waves  is  an  episode  of  the  brief  power  of  Holland  in  this  portion 
of  America,  upon  which  Time  has  made  no  perceptible  change. 

Bahia  de  Todos  os  Santos,  the  Bay  of  All  Saints,  was  discovered 
in  1503  by  Americus  Yespucius,  who  was  then  voyaging  under  the 
patronage  of  the  King  of  Portugal,  Dom  Manoel.  In  1510,  u 
vessel  under  the  command  of  Diogo  Alvares  Correa  was  wrecked 
near  the  entrance  of  this  bay.  The  Tupinambas,  inhabiting  the 
coast,  fell  upon  and  destroyed  all  who  survived  this  shipwreck, 
except  the  captain  of  the  vessel.  The  Indians  spared  Diogo, — 
probably,  as  some  supposed,  on  account  of  his  activity  in  assisting 
them  to  save  articles  from  the  wreck.  He  had  the  good  fortune 
to  obtain  a  musket  and  some  barrels  of  powder  and  ball.  He  early 
took  occasion  to  shoot  a  bird,  and  the  Indians,  terrified  by  the  ex- 
plosion no  less  than  by  its  effects,  called  him  from  that  moment 
Caramwrti,  "the  man  of  fire." 


Romantic  History  of  Caramuru.  479 

He  then  conciliated  their  favor  by  assuring  them  that,  although 
he  Tvas  a  terror  to  his  enemies,  he  could  be  a  valuable  auxiliary  to 
his  friends.  He  accordingly  accompanied  the  Tupinambas  on  an 
expedition  against  a  neighboring  tribe  with  whom  they  were  at 
war.  The  first  discharge  of  Caramuru's  musket  gained  him 
possession  of  the  field,  his  frightened  adversaries  scampering  for 
their  lives. 

Little  more  was  necessary  to  secure  him  a  perfect  supremacy 
among  the  aboriginals.  As  a  proof  of  this,  he  was  soon  compli- 
mented with  proposals  from  various  chiefs,  who  offered  him  their 
daughters  in  marriage.  Diogo  made  choice  of  Paraguassu, 
daughter  of  the  head-chief  Itaparica,  whose  name  is  perpetuated 
as  the  designation  of  the  large  island  in  front  of  the  city,  while 
that  of  Paraguassu,  the  bride,  is  applied  to  one  of  the  rivers 
emptying  into  the  bay.  He  built  a  hamlet  which  he  denominated 
S.  Salvador,*  in  gratitude  for  his  escape  from  the  shipwreck. 
This  settlement  was  located  in  a  place  denominated  Gra^a,  on  the 
Victoria  Hill,  a  suburb  of  the  city,  still  occasionally  called  Villa 
Velha,  (old  to^vn.) 

After  the  lapse  of  some  years,  a  ship  from  Normandy  anchored 
in  front  of  Caramuru's  town  and  opened  communications  with 
the  shore.  Diogo  now  determined  to  return  to  Europe;  and, 
having  supplied  the  vessel  with  a  cargo,  he  embarked  for  Dieppe, 
accompanied  by  Paraguassu.  He  intended,  if  he  arrived  safely,  to 
go  from  Dieppe  to  Lisbon.  The  French,  however,  would  not  jjer- 
mit  this,  but  preferred  to  make  him  a  lion  in  their  own  capital. 
Paraguassu  was  the  first  Indian  female  who  had  ever  appeared  in 
Paris.  A  splendid  fete  was  given  at  her  baptism,  when  she  was 
christened  Catharine  Alvares,  after  the  Queen  Catharine  de  Xedicis. 
King  Henry  II.,  accompanying  his  royal  spouse,  officiated  on  the 
occasion  as  godfather  and  sponsor. 

*  In  successive  editions  of  the  narrative  of  the  "  United  States  Exploring  Expe- 
dition" we  find  the  following: — "The  city  of  San  Salvador,  better  known  as  Rio 
de  Janeiro," — which  is  comparable  for  accuracy  to  McCulloch's  Geographical 
Dictionary,  making  the  mountainous  province  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  to  consist  "mostly 
of  plains."  San  Salvador  is  eight  hundred  miles  north  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  and 
San  Sebastian — the  old  name  of  Rio — has  about  as  much  similarity  to  San  Salvador 
as  New  Orleans  has  to  New  York. 


480  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

The  French  Government  contracted  with  Caramurii  to  send  out 
vessels  which  should  carry  him  to  his  adopted  country,  and  return 
with  brazil-wood  and  other  articles,  which  should  be  given  in  ex- 
change for  goods  and  trinkets.  In  the  mean  time,  true  to  his  original 
intent,  he  contrived  to  inform  Dom  John  111.,  of  Portugal,  of  the 
importance  of  colonizing  Bahia.  A  j^oung  Portuguese,  who  had 
just  finished  his  studies  in  Paris  and  was  returning  to  Portugal, 
was  the  bearer  of  this  message.  This  young  man  (Pedro  Fer- 
nandez Sardinha)  afterward  became  Bishop  of  Bahia. 

The  natives  rejoiced  at  Caramuru's  return,  and  his  colony  now 
increased  rapidly  and  extended  its  influence  in  every  direction. 

At  this  period  the  King  of  Portugal,  in  order  to  secure  the  set- 
tlement of  Brazil,  divided  the  country  into  twelve  captaincies, 
each  of  fifty  leagues'  extent  on  the  coast,  and  boundless  toward 
the  interior.  Each  captaincy  was  conceded  to  a,  Donatary,  whose 
power  and  authority  were  absolute.  Francisco  Pereira  Coutinho, 
who  came  to  take  possession  of  Bahia,  was  a  man  rash  and  arbi- 
trary in  the  extreme.  He  became  jealous  of  the  influence  of  Diogo 
Alvares,  and  commenced  to  persecute  and  oppress  him,  and  finally 
sent  him  on  board  a  ship  as  a  prisoner. 

This  course  exasperated  the  Indians,  who  determined  on  revenge. 
They  attacked  the  settlement  and  killed  Coutinho.  Diogo  Alvares 
was  again  restored  to  his  original  supremacy. 

The  growing  importance  of  the  country,  together  with  rumors 
of  violence  practised  b}'  the  Donataries,  induced  Dom  John  III.  to 
appoint  a  Governor-General  of  Brazil,  to  reside  at  S.  Salvador  and 
to  have  jurisdiction  over  all  the  Donataries. 

In  1549,  Thome  de  Souza,  the  first  Governor-Genei-al,  landed  with 
military  ceremonies  at  Villa  Yelha,  but  in  the  course  of  a  month 
proceeded  to  choose  another  location  for  the  commencement  of  his 
operations.  It  was  that  of  the  present  Cathedral,  Government 
Palace,  and  other  public  buildings. 

Caramurii  was  now  an  old  man,  but  was  of  great  service  to  the 
Governor-General  in  consummating  with  the  natives  a  treaty  of 
peace.  In  four  months  a  hundred  houses  were  built,  and  various 
sugar-plantations  were  laid  out  in  the  vicinity. 

From  this  period  the  city  of  S.  Salvador,  having  been  constituted 
the  capital  of  Portuguese  America,  and  remaining  under  the  direct 


Bahia  Captured  by  the  Hollanders.  481 

patronage  of  the  mother-country,  rapidly  increased  in  size  and 
importance. 

The  year  162-1:  witnessed  the  first  depredations  of  the  Dutcn 
upon  the  then  quiet  and  pi-osperous  eit}"  of  Bahia.  Without  tho 
least  notice  or  provocation,  a  fleet  from  Holland  entered  the 
harbor,  attacked  the  city,  burned  the  shipping,  and  debarked  men 
to  seize  the  fortress  of  S.  Antonio,  and,  after  some  fighting,  gained 
possession  of  the  town.  This  they  sacked,  not  even  sparing  the 
churches.  The  captors  immediately  erected  additional  fortifica- 
tions and  built  many  new  houses.  They  made  prizes  of  all  the 
Portuguese  and  Spanish  ships  that  came  into  the  harbor  not 
knowing  that  the  town  had  changed  masters. 

Portugal  was  at  this  time  tributary  to  Spain.  The  news  of  the 
loss  of  Bahia  caused  great  consternation  at  Madrid,  and  the  more 
since  it  had  been  rumored  that  the  English  were  to  unite  their 
forces  with  the  Dutch  and  establish  the  Elector-Palatine  King  of 
Brazil.  The  Spanish  court  adopted  measures  worthy  of  its  super- 
stition and  its  power.  Instructions  were  despatched  to  the  Gover- 
nors of  Portugal,  requiring  them  to  examine  into  the  crimes  which 
had  provoked  this  visitation  of  the  divine  vengeance,  and  to 
l^unish  them  forthwith.  Novenas  were  appointed  throughout  the 
whole  kingdom;  and  a  litany  and  prayers,  framed  for  the  occasion, 
were  to  be  said  after  the  mass.  On  one  of  the  nine  days  there  was 
to  be  a  solemn  procession  of  the  people  in  every  town  and  village, 
and  of  the  monks  in  every  cloister.  The  sacrament  was  exposed 
in  all  the  churches  of  Lisbon,  and  a  hundred  thousand  crowns  were 
contributed  in  that  city  to  aid  the  Government  in  recovering 
S.  Salvador. 

A  great  ocean-fleet  of  forty  sail,  carrying  eight  thousand  soldiers^ 

sailed  under  D.  Fadrique   de   Toledo   and  D.  Manoel  de  Menezes, 

which  in  March,  1625,  appeared  off"  the  bay;  and  after  some  delay, 

the  object  of  which  was  to  learn  if  the  Hollanders  had  received 

reinforcements,  D.  Fadrique,  satisfied  that  they  had  not,  entered 

the  harbor  with  trumpets  sounding,  colors  flying,  and  the  ships 

ready  for  action.     The  Dutch  vessels  also,  and  the  walls  and  forts, 

were  dressed  out,  with  their  banners  and  streamers  hoisted,  either 

to  welcome  friends  or  defy  enemies,  whichever  these  new-comera 

might  prove  to  be.     The  city  had  been  fortified  with  great  care, 

SI 


482  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

according  to  the  best  principles  of  engineering, — a  science  in  which 
no  people  had  at  that  time  such  exj)erience  as  the  Dutch. "  It  was 
defended  by  ninety-two  pieces  of  artillery,  and  from  the  new  fort 
upon  tlie  beach  they  fired  red-hot  shot. 

After  some  severe  skirmishing,  the  Dutch,  having  waited  in  vain 
for  the  fleet  from  Holland,  proposed  a  capitulation,  which  w-as 
acceded  to. 

The  Hollanders  attempted  to  retake  the  city  in  1638,  vmder 
Mauritz,  Count  of  Nassau,  who  was  then  in  possession  of  Pernam- 
buco  and  a  large  portion  of  the  adjoining  coast.  They  were  re- 
peatedly defeated  at  Bahia,  but  succeeded  for  a  time  at  other 
points. 

The  original  attack,  on  the  part  of  the  Dutch,  grew  out  of 
purely  mercenary  motives.  It  was  planned  and  executed  under 
the  auspices  of  the  celebrated  West  India  Company.  Proving 
successful  at  first,  the  Hollanders  did  not  content  themselves  with 
plundering  the  inhabitants,  but  determined  to  make  the  very  soil 
their  own.  Their  inroads  were  manfully  resisted  by  the  Portu- 
guese, and  the  war,  at  different  times,  extended  along  the_  whole 
coast  from  Bahia  to  Maranham. 

In  1636,  Mauritz,  Count  of  Nassau,  was  sent  out  to  .take  com- 
mand of  the  troops  and  to  govern  the  new  Empire.  Under  his 
direction  active  measures  were  set  on  foot;  forts,  cities,  and 
palaces  were  built,  and  the  country  was  explored  in  soai'ch  of 
mines.  Agriculture  was  undertaken  with  a  strong  hand,  and  it  is 
easy  to  imagine  what  changes  would  have  been  introduced  into 
those  fertile  regions  by  the  industrious  Hollanders,  had  not  the 
fate  of  war  decided  against  them.  In  the  low  ground,  the  mai-shea 
and  the  streams  that  surround  the  city  of  Pernambuco,  they  would 
have  especially  gloried. 

But  the  Brazilians,  under  their  vigilant  leaders,  Camariio,  Hen 
rique  Diaz,  (the  former  an  Indian,  the  latter  a  negro,)  Souto,  and 
Vieyra,  kept  up  such  incessant  attacks  upon  the  Hollanders,  that 
at  last,  in  1654,  they  were  expelled  from  Pernambuco,  and  in  1661 
they  abandoned,  by  negotiation,  all  claim  to  Brazil. 

It  is  interesting  to  think  that,  whatever  motives  may  have  urged 
the  commercial  Hollanders  to  attack  Brazil,  the  Christians  of  that 
brave  little  Protestant  country  were   not   slow  to   follow  u])  the 


Commerce  for  the  Ransom  of  Slaves.  483 

Bettlements;  and  hence,  in  Pernambuco  and  vicinity,  faithful  mis- 
sionary stations  were  estabhshed,  and,  when  the  Dutch  were  finally 
driven  from  the  country,  some  of  the  clergymen  came  to  Kew 
Amsterdam,  and  one  of  them  was  the  first  pastor  of  the  Dutch 
Eeformed  Church  founded  at  Flatbush,  Long  Island. 

From  this  time  the  Hollanders  ceased  their  attacks  on  Bahia, 
that  city  advanced  in  wealth  and  prosperity,  and  was  the  seat  of 
the  Viceroyalty  until  1763,  when  it  was  transferred  to  Eio  de 
Janeiro. 

The  position  of  Bahia,  opposite  the  coast  of  Africa,  caused  it  to, 
be,  from  early  times,  an  important  rendezvous  for  those  engaged 
in  the  African  slave-trade.  The  offensive  ideas  now  associated 
with  that  traffic  among  all  enlightened  nations  are  strangely  in 
contrast  with  the  semblance  of  philanthropy  under  which  it  was 
originally  carried  on.  "What  a  worthy  enterprise,  to  send  vessels 
to  ransom  those  poor  pagan  captives  and  bring  them  where  they 
could  be  Christianized  by  baptism,  and  at  the  same  time  lend  a 
helping  hand  to  those  who  had  been  so  kind  as  to  purchase  them 
out  of  heathen  bondage  and  bring  them  to  a  Christian  country ! 
Expressive  of  such  ideas,  the  bland  title  bj^  which  the  buj-ing  and 
selling  of  human  beings  was  known  during  the  seventeenth  and 
eighteenth  centuries,  was  the  ''commerce  for  the  ransom  of  slaves." 

Bahia  increased  in  population  and  wealth,  and  in  1808  its  pros- 
perity was  still  more  augmented  b^''  the  Carta  Eegia  which  opened 
the  ports  of  Brazil  to  the  world. 

This  city  was  the  last  that  remained  faithful  to  Portugal;  for, 
though  the  indejiendence  of  the  Empire  was  declared  in  September, 
1822,  it  was  not  until  July,  1823,  and  after  severe  suffering,  that 
the  Portuguese  army  evacuated  Bahia  de  San  Salvador.  The  rebel- 
lion of  1837  was  frightful  in  the  extreme;  but  the  Imperial  Go- 
vernment finally  obtained  the  mastery,  and  from  that  day  to  this 
Bahia  has  continued  quiet,  and  has  made  rapid  strides  of  im- 
provement. 

I  do  not  think  that  there  is  any  city  in  Brazil  that  so  interests 
the  foreigner  as  Bahia.  It  is  the  spiritual  capital  of  the  country, 
being  the  residence  of  the  archbishop.  The  churches,  the  con- 
vents, and  other  public  buildings,  are  upon  a  large  scale,  and  have 
no  provincialism  in  their  appearance.     The  people  are  gay  and 


484 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


social,  and  in  ray  extended  travels  throughout  the  Empire  1  have 
nowhere  found  a  society  equal  to  that  of  Bahia.  At  the  house  of 
Mr.  Gillmci',  the  American  Consul,  one  is  always  sure  to  meet  the 
most  refined  and  well-educated  Brazilians.  This  gentleman  is  one 
of  the  few  American  consuls  who,  by  knowledge  of  the  language 
of  the  land  where  they  reside,  by  sociabilit}-  of  character  and  ease 
of  manners,  and  by  pride  of  country',  justly  represent  a  great 
nation.  Mr.  Gillmer  has  long  resided  at  Bahia,  and  by  his  many 
excellent  qualities  has  won  the  hearts  of  the  Brazilians.  The 
weeks  spent  in  his  agreeable  family  gave  me  an  opportunity  for 
making  many  acquaintances  among  the  citizens  of  Bahia  and  the 
foreigners  resident  in  that  city.  The  residence  of  Mr.  Gillmer  is  in 
a  delightful  portion  of  the  city,  where  verdure  and  bloom  abound. 
Each  night  *the  breezes  were  laden  with  sweet  odors,  and  every 
morning  the  sun  seemed  to  reveal  new  beauties  of  opening  buds 
and  brilliant  flowei's.     The  house  of  Senhor  Nobre  was  surrounded 

by  shade  and  fruit  trees,  and  his  large 
salon  was  weekly  filled  by  amateur 
and  professional  musicians,  who  gave 
the  most  charming  soirees  musicales. 

Early  one  morning  I  looked  from 
a  window  of  the  Consul's  house, 
and  saw,  upon  the  branch  of  a 
bread-fruit-tree  beneath  me,  a  hum- 
ming-bird sitting  quietly  upon  her 
tiny  nest.  In  the  midst  of  the  foli- 
age she  appeared  like  a  piece  of 
lapis  lazuli  sui'rounded  by  emeralds; 
for  her  back  was  of  the  deepest  blue. 
Everywhere  throughout  Brazil  this 
little  winged  gem,  in  many  varieties, 
abounds,  while  in  North  America, 
from  Mexico  to  the  fifty-seventh  de- 
gree of  latitude,  it  is  said  that  there 
is  but  one  species  of  the  humming- 
bii'd.  Mr.  Gossc  calls  the  long-tailed  kind  {Trochilus  polytjnus)  the 
gem  of  American  ornithology;  and  well  it  deserves  the  title,  if 
we  consider  the  flashes  of  rich  golden  green,  purplish  black,  deep- 


THE     LONG     TAILED      MALE 
HU  M  M  I  NG-B  1  R  D. 


American  Cemetery. 


485 


bluish  gloss,  and  gorgeous  emerald  green,  which  irradiate  from  this 
winged  jewel. 

The  males  are  among  the  most  belligerent  of  creatures, — rarely 
meeting  without  having  terrible  combats 

The  city  is  not,  however,  so  much  distinguished  for  its  frequen- 
tation  by  humming-birds  as  its  ba}^  is  celebrated  as  a  "whaling- 
ground."  To  "fish  for  whales"  is  a  reguhir 
business  at  Bahia,  and  nearly  everj^  week, 
from   the    numerous    terraces,    admiring 
thousands  can  gaze  upon  the  stirring  ex- 
citement of  capturing  these  monsters  of 
the  deep.     Why  they  frequent  this  port 
I  do  not  know,  unless  their  j)eculiar  food 
abound   in   its    waters.      If    we   descend 
through  lime-tree  hedges  to  the  Rio  Ver- 
melho,    we    may  have     an    opportunity 
(besides  seeing  the  fixtures  for  extracting 
oil)  of  witnessing  the  triumphant  arrival 
of    the    dead    leviathan.      Hundreds   of 
jjeople — the     colored    especially — throng 

around  to  witness  the  monster's  dying  struggles,  and  to  procure 
portions  of  his  flesh,  which  they  cook  and  eat.  Vast  quantities  of 
this  flesh  are  cooked  in  the  streets  and  sold  by  quitandeiras. 
Numbers  of  swine  also  feast  upon  the  carcass  of  the  whale;  and 
all  who  are  not  specially  discriminating  in  their  selection  of  pork 
in  the  market,  during  the  season  of  these  fisheries,  are  liable 
(nolens  volens)  to  get  a  taste  of  something  ^'vqyj  like  a  whale." 
This  whale-fishery  was  once  the  greatest  in  the  world.  At  the 
close  of  the  seventeenth  century,  it  was  rented  by  the  Crown  for 
thirty  thousand  dollars  annually. 

From  the  Eio  Vermelho  we  ascend  by  a  winding  path  to  the 
Victoria  Hill,  passing  en  route  the  English  and  American  cemeteries. 
The  latter  is  the  only  burial-ground  in  Brazil  belonging  to  the 
citizens  of  the  Union,  and  our  country  has  long  been  greatly 
indebted  to  the  courtesy  of  English  consuls  for  suitable  places  of 
interment  for  natives  of  the  United  States.  This  cemetery  is  the 
result  of  private  generosity,  and  especially  of  the  energy  and 
liberal  subscriptions  of  Mr.  Gillmer.     It  is,  however,  neither  just 


TROCHILUS      POLYTMUS. 


486  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

nor  reasonable  that  he  should  bear  the  whole  burden.  In  vain  has 
he  appealed  to  our  Government  for  aid  in  keeping  up  this  resting- 
place  for  our  country's  dead;  and  the  result  is,  that,  no  allowance 
being  granted,  the  cemeteiy  is  in  a  sad  condition.  The  policy  of 
Great  Britain  is  noble  in  this  resiject.  Everywhere  she  erects 
chapels  and  provides  cemeteries  for  her  subjects;  and,  though 
necessarily  the  United  States  cannot  recognise  any  connection 
between  Church  and  State,  yet  a  decent  place  for  the  burial  of  the 
dead  iji  foreign  countries  is  a  matter  of  common  humanity,  Vvhich 
demands  immediate  attention  from  Government.  I  have  known 
jjarents  in  the  United  States  who  would  have  given  thousands  if 
they  could  only  know  the  spot  where  rested  the  remains  of  beloved 
sons  who,  dying  in  hospitals,  were  thrust  into  the  common  receptacle 
for  those  whose  countr}^  had  not  made  provision  of  a  cemetery. 

On  the  Victoria  Hill  may  be  found  the  finest  gardens  that  Bahia 
affords,  the  most  enchanting  walks,  and  the  most  ample  shade. 
Here,  too,  are  the  best  houses,  the  best  air,  the  best  water,  and  the 
best  society.  The  walls  of  two  ancient  and  extensive  forts  also 
add  much  to  the  romance  and  histoi"ical  interest  of  the  place. 
With  its  magnificent  prospect  of  blue  water  and  verdant  isles,  it 
is  a  spot  that  combines  an  external  beauty  of  the  rarest  quality. 
It  was  here  that  Henry  Martyn,  who  incidentally  touched  at  this 
port  on  his  passage  to  India  more  than  half  a  century  ago,  sighed 
and  sung, — 

"  O'er  the  gloomy  hills  of  darkness 
Look,  my  soul ;    be  still,  and  gaze." 

That  the  moral  aspect  of  the  place  has  not  undergone  any  very 
great  change  (unless  it  be  in  diminished  bigotry  and  greater  indif- 
ference) is  not  to  be  presumed,  as  no  causes  have  been  at  work 
that  contemplated  such  a  change.  Everywhere  there  are  still 
evidences  which  give  point  to  the  remark  of  Martyn : — ''Crosses 
there  are  in  abundance;  but  when  shall  the  doctrines  of  the 
cross  be  held  up?" 

I  looked  upon  no  portion  of  Brazil  with  greater  interest  than 
those  walks,  gardens,  chapels,  and  convents  visited  by  Henry 
Martyn.  The  Hospital  for  Lepers,  and  the  chapel  where  ho  gently 
and  lovingly,  yet  firmly,  uttered  his  protest  against  corrupt  religion. 


Henry  Martyn  in  Bahia. 


487 


are  still  etanding:  the  latter,  however,  is  no  longer  in  use.  Tha 
pepper-plantation  is  torn  up,  but  the  clove-trees  of  which  he  speaka 
are  still  flourishrne:.  Some  of  the  convents  which  he  entered  are 
now  tenantless  of  their  monkish  dwellers;  for  in  some  respects  a 
better  day  has  dawned  upon  Brazil,  and  many  of  these  huge  build- 
ings, once  given  up  to  thriftless,  indolent,  and  vicious  orders,  are 
now  used  for  colleges,  lyceums,  libraries,  and  hospitals.  The  con- 
vent where  the  future  missionary  to  Persia  alone,  as  the  sun  waa 
setting  and  the  cloisters  were  darkened,  taught,  with  Vulgate  in 


A      CHAPEL      VISITED       BY       HENRY      MARTYN. 


hand,  "the  faith  once  delivered  to  the  saints"  to  the  curious  and 
benighted  friars,  still  lifts  its  whitened  walls, — walls  which  heard 
his  teachings  and  the  prayers  which  he  whispered  for  the  blessing 
of  a  pure  gospel  to  descend  upon  Brazil.  Have  Henry  Martyn's 
prayers  been  forgotten  before  the  Lord  of  Hosts?  We  love  to 
regard  the  jietitions  of  the  early  Huguenots  at  Eio  de  Janeiro, 
those  of  the  faithful  missionaries  of  the  Reformed  Church  of  Hol- 
land at  Pernambuco,  and  the  prayers  of  Henry  Martyn  at  Bahia, 
as  not  lost,  but  as  having  already  descended,  and  a*s  still  to  descend, 
in  rich  blessings  upon  Brazil. 

My  intercourse  with  Eev.  Mr.  Edge,  the  English  chaplain,  waa 
exceedingly  pleasant.  He  was  a  Cambridge  man,  and  one  of  en- 
larged and  catholic  views.     The  chapel  was  better  filled  (m  the 


488 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


Sabbath  than  any  other  that  I  saw  in  Brazil.  In  a  ramble  with 
him,  I  sketched,  under  a  burning  sun,  the  chapel  above,  which  was 
near  the  country-seat  mentioned  b}-  Martyn  where  he  first  saAV  the 
clove  and  the  pepper.  That  first  visit  of  Henry  Martyn  in  the 
country,  awa}^  from  the  house  of  Antonio  Jose  Correa,  I  believe  to 
have  been  where  the  Hospital  of  Montserrat  is  now  situated. 

The  day  was  beautifully  clear,  and  we  rode  over  a  long,  well- 
paved  street  called  the  Calgado,  which  reaches  quite  into  the 
country.  In  the  outer  suburbs  the  cocoanut-palm  grows  in  great 
profusion,  and  the  jaca-tree  waves  its  green,  glistening  foliage 
above  the  infinite  variety  of  vegetation  which  adorns  this  Southern 
land.     We  passed  the  Carmelite  Convent  and  went  as  far  as  the 


N.  SENHORA      DE      M  0  N  T  S  E  R  R  AT. 


road  which  leads  to  the  Fever  Hospital:  here  we  descended  and 
walked  to  the  tongue  of  land  called  Montserrat,  upon  which  are 
picturesque  fortifications,  a  row  of  summer-houses, — that  of  Mr. 


View  of  Bahia  fkom  Montserrat.  489 

Gillmer  distinguished  by  the  American  flag, — and  on  the  extreme 
point  a  small  Eoman  Catholic  chapel,  more  than  two  hundi*ed  ^^ears 
old,  above  the  doorway  of  which  I  deciphered  this  inscription: — 
"A  Virgem  foi  concebida  sem  peccado  original."  Why  Eomanists 
should  cling  with  such  tenacity  to  the  dogma  of  the  immaculate 
conception,  which  contains  nothing  essential  to  salvation,  I  could 
never  understand. 

We  visited  the  well-appointed  hospital  near  by,  which  is  intended 
particularly  for  those  who  have  been  smitten  with  the  j-ellow  fever; 
but  its  attacks  have  been  very  light  for  the  last  few  years,  though 
the  cholera,  in  1855,  was  quite  fatal  to  the  blacks  and  to  the  mixed 
population  generally.  Yet,  when  we  consider  that,  out  of  a  popula- 
tion of  nearly  a  million  in  the  province,  but  nine  thousand  fell 
before  the  cholera,  the  percentage  is  small  compared  -with  that  of 
New  York  in  1833,  and  almost  nothing  when  compared  with  the 
ravages  of  the  same  disease  at  St.  Louis  in  1849  and  '50.  In  the 
spring  of  1857,  the  journals  of  the  United  States  teemed  with  the 
accounts  of  the  fell  swoop  of  the  yellow  fever  at  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
where  for  a  short  time  twenty-five  persons  per  diem  died.  It  can  be 
proved  by  actual  statistics  that  no  city  of  equal  population  in  the 
United  States  has  so  good  a  sanitary  condition  as  Eio  de  Janeiro. 

The  view  of  Bahia  from  Montserrat  is  truly  magnificent.  The 
curving  lines  of  whitened  buildings — the  one  upon  the  heights,  the 
other  upon  the  water's  edge — everywhere  sejiai^atcd  by  a  broad, 
rich  belt  of  green,  itself  here  and  there  dotted  with  houses, — the 
fortress,  the  shipping,  the  white-capped  waves,  over  which  the 
whale-boats  are  pursuing  their  gigantic  sport, — the  distant  isle  of 
Itaparica  and  the  blue  ocean  beyond, — all  form  a  picture  which  at 
the  time  fills  one  with  exhilarating  delight,  and  ever  after  dwells 
in  the  cabinet  of  memory  a  choice  and  beautiful  picture.  There 
are  few  cities  that  can  present  a  single  view  of  more  imposing 
beauty  than  does  Bahia  to  a  person  beholding  it  from  a  suitable 
distance  on  the  water.  Even  Eio  de  Janeiro  can  hardly  be  cited 
for  such  a  comparison.  The  capital  excels  in  the  endless  variety  of 
its  beautiful  suburbs;  but  in  the  Ai'chiepiscopal  City  beauty  is  con- 
centrated and  presented  at  one  view.  In  Rio,  for  pleasant  abodes, 
one  section  competes  with  another,  and  each  offers  some  ground 
of  preference;  but  in  Bahia,  the  superiorities  seem  all  to  be  united 


490  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

in  one  section,  leaving  the  foreigner  no  room  for  doubt  that  the 
focus  is  the  Victoria  Hill. 

Bcneatli  its  brow,  just  on  the  edge  of  the  bay,  is  a  stately  resi- 
dence embowered  with  cool  fruit  and  flowering  trees,  where  foun- 
tains sweetly  murmur  in  cadence  with  the  musical  rippling  of  the 
waters  which  break  upon  the  neighboring  beach.  It  may,  how- 
ever, distress  some  of  my  readers  to  know  that  this  beautiful  place 
is  a  snuff-factory,  where  the  celebrated  area  ^veta  is  made  which 
enjoys  a  mono2:iol3"  in  Brazil.  Snuff-making  and  snuff-taking  were 
found  among  the  aborigines;  but  this  particular  snuff  was  the 
invention  of  a  Swiss  from  Neufchatel,  and  from  which  he  acquired 
a  large  fortune.  By  his  will,  after  enriching  his  relatives,  he  left 
liberal  sums  for  the  endowment  of  hospitals  for  his  native  canton, 
and  also  for  benevolent  purposes  in  Bahia.  The  main  establishment 
(there  are  branches  in  Eio  and  Pernambuco)  is  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  M.  Barrelet,  of  Neufchatel,  in  whose  agreeable  family 
I  had  that  intercourse  so  sweet  to  the  Christian  in  a  foreign  land. 

Common-school  education  at  Bahia  is  upon  the  best  footing  in 
the  Empire,  and  the  Bahians  take  great  pride  in  showing  the 
statistics  of  their  various  institutions.  Young  Br.  Fairbanks  ac- 
companied me  one  morning  through  the  chief  hospital  and  the 
medical  college.  In  the  latter  I  found  that  there  were  nearly  three 
hundred  students  attending  the  lectures.  Some  of  the  professors — 
both  natives  and  foreigners — are  men  of  talent  and  erudition,  and 
the  course  of  instruction  is  probably  equal  to  that  of  an}-  medical 
school  on  the  Western  continent.  In  the  library  connected  with 
the  institution  I  saw  some  very  large  and  very  costly  volumes  on 
anatomy  in  the  Eussian  language.  They  had  been  recently  sent 
out  from  St.  Petersburg,  and  were  in  every  respect  very  finely 
gotten  up. 

Near  b}'  is  the  old  Cathedral,  an  immense  edifice,  which  has 
been  constructed  with  great  expense,  and  is  superior  to  any  church 
in  Brazil,  unless  it  may  be  the  unfinished  Candalaria  of  Eio.  In  a 
wing  of  this  building,  from  which  ma}'  be  enjoyed  a  very  com- 
manding view  of  the  harbor,  is  located  the  public  library.  It  con- 
tains many  thousand  volumes,  a  large  portion  of  which  are  in 
French;    and  it  also  possesses  some  most  valuable  manuscripts. 

The  librarian  is  the  Hon.  Chevalier  de  Lisboa,  the  accomplished 


National  Gala-Days.  491 

scholar  and  gentleman,  who,  as  Minister-Plenipotentiary,  repre- 
sented Brazil  at  Washington  in  1845.  I  was  deeply  interested  in 
a  large  and  well-illustrated  volume  shown  me  by  the  Chevalier, 
which  was  an  account  of  the  "Dutch  in  Brazil"  and  was  published 
at  Amsterdam  before  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century. 

In  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  Cathedral  are  the  archi- 
episcopal  palace  and  seminar}^,  and  the  old  Jesuit  College,  now 
used  as  a  military  hospital.  The  latter  building,  together  with 
the  Church  of  JSTossa  Senhora  da  Conceigao,  (its  steeples  are  seen  on 
the  right  of  the  large  view  of  Bahia,)  on  the  Praya,  may  almost  be 
said  to  have  been  built  in  Europe :  at  least,  the  principal  stone- 
work for  them  was  cut,  fitted,  and  numbered  on  the  other  side  of 
the  Atlantic,  and  imported  ready  for  immediate  erection.  The 
President's  palace  is  also  but  a  short  distance  from  this  locality. 
It  is  a  substantial  building,  of  ancient  date,  located  upon  one  side 
of  an  open  square. 

The  Presidents  of  provinces  are  appointed  by  the  Emperor,  and 
his  choice  is  by  no  means  confined  to  the  particular  province  to  be 
governed.  Hence  Brazilian  statesmen  are  liable  to  many  changes 
of  residence :  but  it  may  be  that  there  is  wisdom  in  this,  for  it  has 
been  said  that  the  selections  are  thus  made  of  strangers  to  the  pro- 
vince so  "that  the  influence  of  family  connections  and  personal 
friendships  may  not  prove  temptations  to  partiality  in  the  distribu- 
tion of  "-ifts  and  emoluments  under  their  control."     The  President 

O 

is,  in  fact,  a  Viceroy  with  a  body-guard;  and  it  seems  to  me  that 
the  appointing-power  by  which  he  is  elevated  to  office  is  one  of 
the  most  conservative  elements  in  the  Brazilian  Constitution. 

My  colleague  was  at  Bahia  on  the  anniversary  of  the  Emperor's 
birth,  and  his  felicitous*  description  of  that  scene  will  convey  an 
idea  of  similar  celebrations  throughout  the  whole  Empire : — 

"  The  Baliians  were  preparing  to  celebrate  the  birthday  of  their  j'outhful  Em- 
peror, the  2J  of  December.  This  anniversary  is,  throughout  the  nation,  a  favorite 
one  among  the  several  dias  de  grande  gala,  or  political  holidays.  Of  these  the  Bra- 
zilians celebrate  six.  The  1st  of  January  heads  the  list  with  New  Year's  compli- 
ments to  His  Majesty.  The  25th  of  March  commemorates  the  adoption  of  the 
Constitution.  The  7th  of  April  is  the  anniversary  of  the  Emperor's  accession  to 
the  throne.  The  3d  of  May  is  the  day  for  opening  the  sessions  of  the  National 
Assembly.  The  7th  of  September  is  the  anniversary  of  the  Declaration  of  the 
national  Independence;  while  the  last  in  the  catalogue  is  the  2d  of  December,  the 
Emperor's  birthday.     On  all  these  days,  except  the  3d  of  May,  His  Majesty  holds 


•492  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

court  in  the  palace  at  Rio.  Presidents  of  provinces,  as  the  special  representatives 
of  the  Crown,  follow  the  example  of  their  sovereign,  by  holding  lev6e  in  the  several 
provincial  capitals ;  but  they  do  not  presume  to  receive  Imperial  honors  in  their 
own  person.  The  place  of  honor  in  their  sola  de  coHcjo  is  always  allotted  to  the 
portrait  of  His  Majesty.  Near  by,  as  the  special  representative  of  the  throne,  the 
President  takes  his  place,  accompanied  perchance  by  the  bishop.  Before  these,  in 
measured  step,  pass  the  dignitaries  invited,  in  the  order  of  their  rank  and  distinc- 
tion, paying  their  obeisance  severally  to  the  Imperial  portrait.  After  this  ceremony, 
mutual  compliments  are  exchanged  by  the  individuals  present,  and  the  company 
breaks  up. 

"  It  was  no  ordinary  celebration  that  was  to  take  place  at  this  time.  During  the 
recent  session  of  the  National  Assembly  at  Ptio  de  Janeiro,  it  had  been  more  than 
intimated  that  the  Bahians  generally  were  doubtful  in  their  loyalty.  Not  relishing 
Buch  insinuations,  they  had  resolved  to  make  a  display  on  this  occasion  which, 
from  its  unexampled  magnificence,  should  not  only  demonstrate  their  fidelity  to  the 
throne,  but  should  throw  even  the  metropolis  into  the  shade.  In  addition  to  the 
usual  cortejo,  there  were  to  be  ceremonies  for  three  successive  days  and  illumina- 
tions for  as  many  nights.  On  the  first  day  there  was  to  be  a  grand  Te  Deum,  with 
a  sermon ;  on  the  second,  a  military  ball  at  the  palace ;  and  on  the  third,  an  un- 
rivalled exhibition  of  fireworks,  on  Victoria  Hill,  at  the  Campo  de  S.  Pedro. 

"  The  2d  of  December  came.  It  was  not  clad  in  the  frosty  robes  of  a  Northern 
winter,  with  whistling  winds  and  drifted  snow  at  its  heels.  Nay,  the  North  is  not 
farther  from  the  South  than  is  the  idea  many  a  reader  has  pictured  in  his  imagina- 
tion at  the  bai'e  mention  of  December,  from  the  reality  of  the  day  in  question. 
Preceded  by  but  a  brief  interval  of  twilight,  the  sun  threw  upward  his  mellowest 
rays,  burnishing  the  wreathed  clouds  of  the  eastern  horizon.  Pi-esently  from  his 
bed  of  ocean  he  rose  majestic  on  his  vertical  pathway,  looking  down  on  one  of  the 
fairest  scenes  nature  ever  presented  to  the  eye  of  man.  The  boundless  expanse  of 
the  Atlantic  on  the  east, — the  broad  and  beautiful  bay  on  the  south  and  west,  with 
its  palm-crested  islands  and  circling  mountains, — were  but  an  appropriate  foreground 
to  the  lovely  picture  of  the  citj'  herself,  reposing  like  a  queen  of  beauty  amid  the 
embowering  groves  of  the  proud  eminences  over  which  her  mansions,  her  temples, 
and  her  lordly  domes  were  scattered. 

*'  The  day  was  ushered  in  by  the  roar  of  cannon  from  the  several  batteries  and 
the  vessels-of-war.  From  that  moment  might  be  seen  the  shipping  of  every  nation 
in  the  harbor,  gayly  decked  with  flags,  signals,  and  streamers  of  unnumbered 
hues. 

"  Being  much  occupied  in  the  morning,  I  did  not  reach  the  Cathedral  in  time  to 
listen  to  the  discourse  which  preceded  the  Te  Deum,  which  terminated  at  three 
o'clock  P.M.  At  this  moment  there  was  a  discharge  of  rockets  in  front  of  the 
Oathedi'al  and  a  general  salute  of  artillery  from  the  guns  of  the  forts  and  shipping. 
The  scene  was  now  transfen-ed  to  the  Government  Palace,  the  old  residence  of  the 
Viceroys,  where  the  cortejo  took  place.  At  the  same  time,  the  troops  of  the  city, 
to  the  number  of  two  thousand  five  hundred,  were  paraded  in  the  Palace  Square 
and  in  the  streets  leading  from  the  Cathedral  to  that  place.  These,  together  with 
all  the  other  principal  streets,  had  been  adorned  by  silk  and  damask  hangings  from 
the  windows, — the  national  colors,  yellow  and  green,  being  most  frequent  and  most 
admired.  The  illumination  at  night  throughout  the  city,  but  specially  at  the  Pas- 
seio  Publico,  was,  of  all  other  parts  of  the  celebration,  most  interesting  to  me. 

"  This  public  promenade  of  Bahia  is  located  on  the  boldest  and  most  commanding 


The  Public  Promenade  of  Bahia.  493 

height  of  the  whole  town.  One  of  its  sides  looks  toward  the  ocean,  and  another 
up  the  bay,  while  nothing  but  an  iron  railing  guards  the  visitor  against  the  danger 
of  falling  over  the  steep  precipice  by  which  its  whole  front  is  bordered.  For 
airiness,  this  locality  is  not  even  surpassed  by  the  Battery  of  New  York,  while  its 
sublime  elevation  throws  the  last-mentioned  place  into  an  unfavorable  contrast. 
The  space  allotted  to  the  Battery  is  greater,  but  the  variety  and  richness  of  the 
trees  and  flowers  of  the  Passeio  Publico  of  Bahia  fully  compensate  for  its  deficiency 
in  this  respect.  Here  it  was,  under  the  dark,  dense  foliage  of  the  mangueiras,  the 
lime-trees,  the  bread-fruit,  the  cashew,  and  countless  other  trees  of  tropical 
growth,  that  thousands  of  lights  were  blazing.  Most  of  these  hung  in  long  lines 
of  transparent  globes, — so  constructed  as  to  radiate  severally  the  principal  hues  of 
the  rainbow, — and  waved  gracefully  in  the  evening  breeze  as  it  swept  along,  laden 
with  the  fragrance  of  opening  flowers. 

"  The  calmness  of  a  summer  evening  always  throws  an  enchantment  over  the 
feelings ;  but  there  was  a  peculiar  richness  in  this  scene.  Not  only  was  the  ob- 
server delighted  with  the  varied  and  skilful  exhibitions  of  artificial  light  around 
him,  but,  lifting  his  eyes  above  them  to  the  vaulted  empyrean,  he  might  there  gaze 
upon  the  handiwork  of  the  Almighty,  so  gloriously  displayed  in  the  bright  constel- 
lations of  the  Southern  sky. 

"  The  Avealth,  fashion,  and  beauty  of  the  Bahians  never  boasted  a  more  felicitous 
display  than  was  mutually  furnished  and  witnessed  by  the  thousands  that  thronged 
this  scene.  AVhat  an  occasion  was  here  offered  to  the  mind  disposed  to  philosophize 
on  man!  From  hoary  age  to  playful  youth,  no  condition  of  life  or  style  of 
character  was  unrepresented.  The  warrior  and  the  civilian,  the  man  of  title,  the 
millionnaire  and  the  slave,  all  mingled  in  the  common  rejoicings.  Never,  espe- 
cially, had  the  presence  of  females  in  such  numbers  been  observed  to  grace  a  scene 
of  public  festivity.  Mothers,  daughters,  wives,  and  sisters,  who  seldom  were  per- 
mitted to  leave  the  domestic  circle,  except  in  their  visits  to  the  moi-ning  mass,  bung 
upon  the  arms  of  their  several  protectors,  and  gazed  with  undissembled  wonder  at 
the  seemingly  magic  enchantments  before  and  around  them.  The  dark  and  flowing 
tresses,  the  darker  and  flashing  eyes,  of  a  Brazilian  belle,  together  with  her  some- 
times darkly-shaded  cheek,  show  ofl"  with  greater  charms  from  not  being  hidden 
under  the  arches  of  a  fashionable  bonnet.  The  graceful  folds  of  her  mantilla,  or 
of  the  rich  gossamer  veil  which  is  sometimes  its  substitute,  wreathed  in  some  inde- 
scribable manner  over  the  broad,  high,  and  fancy-wrought  shell  that  adorns  her 
head,  can  scarcely  be  improved  by  any  imitation  of  foreign  fashions.  Nevertheless, 
the  forte  of  a  Brazilian  lady  is  in  her  guitar,  and  the  soft  modinhas  she  sings  in 
accompaniment  to  its  tones. 

"  On  the  marble  monument  erected  in  memory  of  Dom  John's  visit  to  Bahia 
illuminated  forms  were  fitted,  and,  on  this  occasion,  displayed,  in  large  and  bril- 
liant letters,  extravagant  praise  to  D.  Pedro  II. 

"  In  another  quarter,  upon  a  high  parapet  overlooking  the  sea  and  bay,  had 
been  constructed  a  fancy  pavilion,  in  the  style  of  an  Athenian  temple.  In  front 
of  this,  supported  by  the  central  columns,  had  been  placed  a  full-length  portrait 
of  His  M.njesty.  In  the  saloons  of  this  palacete  were  stationed  bands  of  music, 
surrounded  by  ladies  and  dignitaries  of  the  province.  The  portrait  of  the 
Emperor  was  concealed  by  a  curtain  until  a  given  hour  of  the  evening,  when  the 
President  made  his  appearance,  and,  suddenly  drawing  it  up,  gave  successive 
vivas  to  His  Majesty,  the  Imperial  family,  the  Brazilian  nation,  and  the  people 
of  Bahia, — all  af  which  were  responded  to  with  deafening  acclamations  from  the 


491  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

multitude  ar)und,  while  the  heavens  above  were  resplendent  with  the  discharge 
of  a  thousand  rockets. 

"  On  Wednesday,  the  festivities  of  the  great  national  anniversary  terminated  with 
a  pyrotechnic  display.  The  Passeio  Publico  was  illuminated  more  brilliantly  than 
before,  and  all  the  gardens  surrounding  the  Campo  de  San  Pedro  were  lighted  up 
with  torches  and  bonfires.  A  large  platform  had  been  erected  in  the  centre  of  thia 
square,  upon  which  the  Emperor's  portrait  was  again  exhibited, — the  Archbishop 
assisting  the  President  to  roll  up  the  curtain  from  before  it  at  the  appointed  hour. 
The  concourse  of  people  was  vastly  greater  than  it  had  been  on  any  previous  evening. 
The  weather  was  without  interruption  serene  and  beautiful,  but  neither  the  plan 
nor  execution  of  the  fireworks  deserved  high  commendation.  Yet  all  the  bustle  and 
crowd  passed  away,  as  on  the  previous  nights,  without  the  slightest  disturbance. 
This  fact  was  certainly  a  happy  comment  upon  the  orderly  disposition  of  the  people. 
I  witnessed  no  funcqao  in  Brazil  which  was,  on  the  whole,  more  interesting  to  mc 
than  this.  Its  superiority  over  the  exhibitions  of  the  usual  religious  festivals  was 
manifest.  In  fact,  the  simple  circumstance  that  it  was  a  civic  celebration,  and 
destitute  of  any  religious  pretensions,  went  far  to  commend  it  to  the  admiration 
of  any  one  who  had  often  been  shocked  by  those  incongruous  medleys  of  the 
solemn  and  ridiculous  which  are  by  many  thought  essential  to  the  'pomp  and 
splendor'  of  religious  anniversaries." 

Away  from  the  pretty  Victoria  Hill,  in  a  portion  of  the  lower 
town,  the  stranger,  among  other  curiosities,  may  see  what  is  called 
by  its  right  name, — afabrica  de  imagens,  (image-factory.)  It  is  not 
my  intention  to  enlarge  on  worship  in  this  city,  for  it  is  the  same 
as  throughout  the  Empire.  Saints,  crucifixes,  and  every  species 
of  the  ghostly  paraphernalia  of  Eomanism,  are  here  exhibited  in 
the  shoj)S,  with  a  profusion  which  I  nowhere  else  saw,  indicating 
that  the  traffic  in  these  articles  is  more  flourishing  than  in  other 
parts.  It  is  not  in  name  only  that  Bahia  enjoys  the  ecclesiastical 
supremacy  of  Brazil.  It  is  the  see  of  the  only  archbishop  in  the 
Emjjire.  Its  churches  exceed  in  number  and  in  sumptuousuess 
those  of  any  other  city;  and  its  convents  are  said  to  contain  more 
friars  and  more  nuns  than  those  of  all  the  Empire  beside. 

But  I  cannot  pass  over  this  subject  without  referring  to  Saint 
Antonio  de  Argoira,  who  seems  to  be  the  favorite  jjatron  of  the 
calendar  in  Brazil.  His  image  is  in  the  Franciscan  Convent,  and 
his  history  is  as  follows: — 

In  1595,  a  fleet,  under  the  direction  of  some  Lutherans,  sailed  from  France,  with 
the  intention  of  capturing  Bahia.  On  their  way  they  attacked  Argoim,  a  small 
island  on  the  coast  of  Africa  belonging  to  the  Portuguese,  and,  after  having  com- 
mitted various  depredations,  carried  otf,  among  other  sacred  things,  an  image  of  St. 
Anthonj'. 

Once  more  at  sea,  the  fleet  was  attacked  with  storms,  which  sunk  several  of  the 
vessels.     Those  that  escaped  this  fate  were  assaulted  with  a  pestilence,  dui-ing 


The  Miracle  Explained.  495 

which,  through  pure  spite  toward  the  Roman  Catholic  religion,  the  aforesaid  image 
was  thrown  overboard,  having  been  first  hacked  with  cutlasses.  The  vessel  that 
carried  it  put  into  a  port  of  Sergipe,  and  all  on  board  were  taken  prisoners.  These 
men  were  sent  to  Bahia,  and  the  first  object  they  saw  on  the  praia  was  the  very 
same  image  they  had  so  maltreated.  It  had  been  cast  up  by  the  waters  to 
confront  them  ! 

A  worthy  citizen  obtained  the  image  and  placed  it  in  his  private  chapel ;  but 
when  the  Franciscans  learned  what  a  miracle  had  happened,  they  demanded  the 
image,  and  carried  it  in  solemn  procession  to  their  convent.  So  great  was  its  fame 
now,  that  King  Philip  ordered  the  establishment  of  a  grand  procession  in  memory 
of  these  events.  And,  strange  to  tell,  popularity  did  for  the  image  what  the 
bitter  hostility  of  the  heretics  could  not  do.  Its  friends,  the  friars,  became  ashamed 
of  its  old  and  ugly  appearance,  and  laid  it  aside  to  make  room  for  a  more  gaudy 
and  fashionable  one,  which  was  christened  in  its  name  and  presumed  to  be  the 
inheritor  of  its  virtues.  Having  thus  been  introduced  to  the  citizens  of  Bahia, 
St.  Anthony  was  now  enlisted  as  a  soldier  in  the  fortress  near  the  barra  bearing 
his  name. 

In  this  capacity  he  received  regular  pay  until  he  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of 
captain  by  the  Governor,  Rodrigo  da  Costa.  The  order  for  his  promotion  lies 
before  me,  and  is  so  curious  that  I  give  the  concluding  portion.  After  referring  to 
a  vow  by  the  camara  municipal,  which  had  been  unfulfilled,  the  Governor  says, — 

"Wherefore,  and  because  we  now  more  than  ever  need  the  favors  of  the  afore- 
mentioned saint,  both  on  account  of  the  present  wars  in  Portugal,  and  of  those  which 
may  yet  happen  in  Bahia,  the  said  Chamber  has  besought  me,  in  commemoration 
of  the  afore -mentioned  vow,  to  assign  to  the  said  glorious  St.  Anthony  the  rank  and 
pay  of  a  captain  in  the  fortress,  where  he  has  hitherto  only  received  the  pay  of  a 
common  soldier. 

"  In  obedience  to  this  request,  and  subject  to  the  approval  of  the  King,  I  there- 
fore assign  to  the  glorious  St.  Anthony  the  rank  of  captain  in  the  said  fortress,  and 
order  that  the  solicitor  of  the  Franciscan  Convent  be  authorized  to  draw,  in  his 
behalf,  the  regular  amount  of  a  captain's  pay. 

*' Rodrigo  da  Costa. 
"Bahia,  July  16,1705." 

Now,  the  miracle  of  S.  Antonio  was  truly  notable.  But  the  in- 
vestigations of  modern  science,  and  a  little  more  experience,  have 
cleared  up  the  mystery.  While  conversing  with  a  gentleman,  not 
a  Eomanist,  at  Bahia,  about  S.  Antonio's  singular  voyage  to  the 
coast  of  Brazil,  he  gravely,  to  my  surprise,  stated  that  it  was 
without  doubt  a  bona  fide  account  that  the  hacked  image  had  floated 
to  the  Western  world :  all  could  be  explained  by  natural  laws.  A 
few  days  afterward  he  gave  me  the  following,  which  Avill  doubt- 
less be  a  novel  confirmation  of  Lieutenant  Maury's  theories  in 
regard  to  ocean  winds  and  currents. 

"It  is  not  at  all  surprising  that,  in  those  days  of  gross  credulity  and  ignorance, 
the  appearance  of  the  image  of  Santo  Antonio  on  this  coast  should  have  been  con- 
sidered as  a  miracle,  performed  expressly  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  to  condign 


496  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

punishment  the  'pirates'  for  the  sacrilegious  act  they  had  committed.  Of  the 
appearance  of  the  image  on  the  beach,  and  its  having  floated  from  Afiica,  no  rea- 
sonable doubt  can  be  entertained ;  and,  in  proof  of  its  entire  probability,  the  follow- 
ing remarkable  coincidence  may  be  presented : — 

"About  fifteen  years  ago,  the  late  Visconde  do  Rio  Vermelho,  a  gentleman  of  the 
utmost  veracity,  and  owner  of  an  extensive  fishery  on  this  coast  a  few  miles  to  the 
north  of  the  harbor  of  Bahia,  near  Itapican,  declared  to  the  writer  of  the  present 
lines  that  the  figure-head  of  a  vessel,  somewhat  injured  by  fire,  was  brought  to  his 
residence  from  the  beach  (where  it  had  been  stranded)  and  placed  on  his  grounds. 
Shortly  after,  a  painter  from  the  city,  engaged  in  painting  the  house,  on  seeing  the 
figure  immediately  recognised  it  as  one  he  had  painted,  some  months  previously, 
for  a  vessel  which  had  afterward  sailed  for  the  coast  of  Africa,  and  of  whose  safety 
great  fears  were  entertained,  no  news  having  been  received  from  her.  It  was  sub- 
sequently ascertained  that  the  vessel  in  question  had  been  burned  to  the  water's 
edge,  on  the  coast  of  Africa, — the  figure-head,  singulai-ly  enough,  having  brought 
the  first  tidings  of  the  disaster. 

"  It  is  likely  that  the  figure-head,  being  of  light  cedar,  and  the  pedestal  to  which 
it  was  attached,  of  hard  wood  with  bolts  and  fastenings  of  iron,  may  have  floated 
in  a  nearly  upright  position,  thus  presenting  a  broader  surface  for  the  action  of 
the  northeast  trade-wiuds,  and  materially  accelerating  its  j)assage  across  the 
Atlantic." 

At  Eio  de  Jiineiro  S.  Antonio  has  long  enjoyed  the  position  and 
received  the  pay  of  a  colonel  in  the  regular  army.  How  he  can 
appropriate  his  salary  to  himself  is  difficult  for  us  to  understand; 
but  it  may  throw  some  light  on  the  subject  to  state  that  it  passes 
through  the  hands  of  his  terrestrial  delegates, — the  Franciscan 
monks, — and  by  a  proper  application  you  may  see  the  accounts 
and  receipts  for  his  saintship's  washing,  clothing,  &c. 

Traditions  respecting  St.  Thomas's  visit  to  Brazil  are  very 
common  in  different  parts  of  the  country.  Many  of  them  were 
coined  by  the  Jesuits,  and  they  have  passed  currently  among  a 
credulous  people.  Observe  the  logic  with  Avhich  the  renowned 
Simon  de  Vasconcellos  proves  that  Saint  Thomas,  certainly,  must 
have  been  in  South  America. 

"With  what  show  of  reason,"  says  the  Jesuit,  "could  the  American  Indian  be 
damned,  if  the  gospel  had  never  been  preached  to  him  ?  He  who  sent  his  apostles 
into  all  the  world  could  not  mean  to  leave  America — which  is  nearly  half  of  it — out 
of  the  question.  The  gospel,  therefore,  must  have  been  preached  there  in  obedience 
to  this  command.  But  by  whom  was  it  preached  ?  It  could  not  have  been  by  either 
of  the  other  apostles,  Paul,  Peter,  John,  &c.  St.  Thomas,  therefore,  must  have 
been  the  man!" 

No  wonder  the  Jesuits  were  able  to  map  out  his  travels  from 
Brazil  to  Peru,  to  find  traces  of  his  pastoral  staff,  crosses  erected 
by  him,  and  inscriptions  in  Greek   and  Hebrew  written    by  his 


The  Commerce  of  Bahia. 


497 


hand.  They  even  brought  his  sandals  and  mantle  unconsuraed 
out  of  the  volcano  of  Arequipa.  I  suppose  it  was  either  in  going 
or  returning  that  he  visited  England  and  preached  under  the 
Glastonbury  Thorn. 

The  commerce  of  Bahia  suffered  to  some  extent  at  the  suppres- 
sion of  the  slave-trade;  but  it  is  slowly  advancing  in  legitimate 
channels.  The  culture  of  tobacco  and  of  coffee  are  both  increasing. 
Eailways  are  projected  into  the  interior,  and  steamers  (not  to  men- 
tion the  Government  lines)  run  to  the  coast-towns  in  Sergipe  and 
Alagoas  on  the  north,  and  nearly  to  Espirito  Santo  on  the  south. 


DARING      NAVIGATION. 


Sr.  Martin,  former  President  of  the  province,  deserves  great  credit 
for  his  advancement  of  agriculture,  while  Senhor  Lacerda,  co-ope- 
rating with  Messrs.  Carson  &  Gillmer,  has  done  much  toward 
advancing  the  manufacturing-interest.  The  finest  factory  in  all 
Brazil — perhaps  South  America — was  erected  according  to  the 
plans  and  under  the  superintendence  of  Colonel  Carson,  an  Ame- 
rican of  daring  energy  and  genius.  During  my  stay  in  the  province 
of  Bahia,  one  of  the  pleasantest  excursions  was  my  visit  to  Ya- 
len^a,  the  seat  of  the  factory. 

It  was  a  cheerful  party  that  accompanied  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Gillmer; 
and  the  day  was  so  bright  that  our  trip  was  most  agreeable  over  the 

bay  through  a  fleet  of  little  whale-boats  that  were  in  hot  pursuit 

32 


498  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

of  their  spouting  game.  There  were  a  number  of  Brazilian  gen- 
tlemen on  board,  who,  finding  the  American  Consul  making  an 
excursion,  came  and  j^h'^ced  their  houses  at  the  disposition  of  him- 
self and  companions.  About  noon  we  passed  the  light-house  on  the 
Moro  de  S.  Paulo, — a  beautiful  structux-e,  built  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  Colonel  Carson.  We  steamed  up  the  river  Una  to 
Valenga,  where  the  colonel  joined  us,  and  we  then  re-embarked  in 
long  ''dug-outs"  in  order  to  ascend  the  stream  to  the  fahrica. 

In  a  few  moments  we  were  at  the  foot  of  roaring  rapids,  upon 
the  borders  of  which  the  genius  of  this  enterprising  American  had 
erected  a  saw-mill,  a  window-sash  factory,  and  a  planing-machine; 
in  addition  to  which  he  had  constructed  a  lock, — the  first  in  Brazil, 
— through  which  our  canoes  passed.  In  the  sash-factory  we  saw 
the  chief  Avorkman,  Mr.  Foster,  from  Worcester,  Massachusetts. 
This  establishment  belonged  to  Dr.  Bernardini,  a  Brazilian  LL.D., 
who  left  the  judge's  bench  to  enjoy  the  more  lucrative  position  of 
a  manufacturer.  At  Dr.  B.'s  order,  a  slave  brought  down,  with 
capital  skill,  several  saw-logs  from  above  the  falls.  The  expertness 
with  which  he  balanced  himself  and  guided-  in  perfect  safety  his 
clumsy  craft  was  truly  admirable,  and  called  forth  from  our  party 
loud  huzzas.  The  manner  in  which  he  managed  the  log  illustrates 
the  descent  of  the  rapids  of  the  Upper  Amazonian  affluents. 

We  resumed  our  route,  passing  up  the  narrow  stream.  Upon 
the  banks  were  numerous  negresses  and  mulatresses  engaged  in 
washing.  In  looking  upon  them  I  thought,  for  the  first  time  in 
my  life,  of  the  nuisance  of  clothing  in  matters  of  manual  labor. 
The  women  (whose  glistening  rounded  limbs  were  as  smooth  as 
those  of  the  Greek  Slave)  were  naked  to  the  Avaist,  and  the  chil- 
dren— some  not  far  from  their  teens — were  in  pur  is  naturalibus. 

We  arrived  at  the  factory,  or,  rather,  at  the  factories;  for,  cluster- 
ing around  the  large  fahrica,  whose  white  Avails  stand  out  in  bold 
relief  from  its  background  of  green,  are  machine-shops,  foundries, 
&c.  &c.  The  rattle  of  the  looms,  the  cheerful  smile  of  the  merry 
girls,  and  the  indescribable  din  and  buzz  of  a  factory,  made  me 
almost  imagine  myself  near  LoAvell.  The  operatives,  men  and 
women,  are  mostly  from  the  orphan-asylum  and  foundling-hos- 
pitals. They  are  under  good  discipline,  and  compare  in  morals 
very  favorably  Avith  those  of  the  best-conducted  factories  in  our 


Cotton-Factory  at  Valenca.  499 

own  land.  In  the  foundry  I  saw  the  whole  opei-ation  of  modelling, 
moulding,  and  finishing,  performed  by  negroes.  The  fbreman  of 
the  foundry  is  a  Brazilian  negro,  trained  by  Mr.  Carson,  and  the 
most  intricate  machinery  is  here  manufactured. 

Extensive  buildings  were  still  going  up  to  facilitate  the  manu- 
facture of  cotton  cloths,  which  are  of  finer  quality  than  those 
turned  out  at  St.  Alexio ;  and  it  is  gratifying  to  state  that  this 
factory  can  scarcely  meet  the  demand,  and,  doubtless,  in  a  few 
years  Messrs.  Lacerda  &  Co.  Avill  be  amph^  rewarded  for  their  im- 
mense outlay.  I  here  found  a  millwright  (Mr.  R.  A.  Randall)  from 
Scituate,  R.I.* 


THE      VALENCA       FACTORY. 


After  a  sumptuous  and  truly  tropical  dinner,  the  gentleman- 
portion  of  our  party  sallied  forth  for  an  excursion,  the  end  of 
which  was  to  find  a  suitable  place  to  sketch  the  immense  factory. 

*  It  seemed  truly  out  of  place,  in  this  distant  corner  of  the  world,  to  read  the 
names  of  machinists  of  the  United  States,  whose  workmanship  was  here  benefiting 
a  people  speaking  another  tongue.  The  following  are  some  of  the  names  which 
I  copied  from  inscriptions  on  the  machinery: — C.  Lewis,  New  York,  drilling-lathe; 
"D.  Dicks,  Hadley  Falls,  Mass.,  antifriction  press  or  punch;  S.  Jones,  Boston,  im- 
proved shears;  C.  F.  Pike,  Providence,  R.I.,  iron-planer;  J.  &  S.  W.  Putnam  &  Co., 
Fitchburg,  Mass.,  bolt-cutter.  There  were  other  machines,  by  J.  Peck,  Coventry 
Factory,  (Anthony's,)  R.I.,  and  by  Thayer,  Houghton  &  Co.,  Worcester,  Mass. 


500  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

The  paint  de  vue  was  well  chosen ;  but  each  of  us  carried  away  a 
piece  of  the  foreground,  in  an  innumerable  quantity  of  garapatos, 
which  small  insects  —  resembling-  very  diminutive  spiders  —  clung 
to  our  garments  with  a  most  tenacious  hold.  Each  one  of  these 
little  fellows  produces  a  boil;  and,  in  some  parts  of  Brazil,  cattle 
in  a  long  dry  season  —  the  insect  cannot  survive  a  drenching — 
have  sometimes  perished  by  the  sores  thus  created.  I  hastened  to 
the  house,  plunged  into  a  bath  of  hot  water,  and  then  was  rubbed 
down  with  a  pint  of  rum, — more  of  the  article,  by  three  gills, 
than  ever  before  had  been  applied  to  my  p)hysique,  either  exter- 
nally^ or  internally.  This  eflf'ectually  stopped  the  depredations 
which  had  begun. 

Earl}'-  the  next  morning,  Mr.  Eandall  and  I  went  to  the  spot 
where  two  of  our  countrymen  were  buried.  Three  Americans 
came  out  together,  and  he  alone  was  left.  He  feelingly  recounted 
to  me  the  circumstances  of  their  death  as  we  passed  up  a  narrow 
path  to  their  resting-place.  The  graves  were  under  the  deep  shade 
of  two  jaca-trees,  and  over  them  small  obelisks  had  been  erected. 
It  was  to  me  a  solemn  scene  in  that  early  morning  hour. 

After  bi-eakfast,  Mr.  Gillmer,  Mr.  Pointdextei-,  a  young  Pole,  and 
myself,  went  up  the  river  to  see  an  upper  waterfall.  The  shrubs, 
the  dead  stumps,  and- the  lofty  trees  on  the  banks  seemed  bloom- 
ing with  orchidaceous  plants.  Eich  cabinet-woods  also  abound  in 
the  forest.  At  Bahia,  the  Visconde  Fiaz  and  Senhor  Viana  (brother 
of  the  chief  collector  of  customs  at  Rio)  showed  me,  at  their  re- 
sidences, some  of  the  finest  specimens  of  furniture,  made  from 
native  woods,  that  I  ever  saw.  We  finally  reached  the  fall,  which 
resembles  a  miniature  Niagara.  The  river  Una  here  pours  over  a 
ledge  of  rocks  in  such  volume  that  it  has  been  computed  there  is 
enough  water-power  to  drive  one  hundred  factories  of  five  thou- 
sand spindles  each. 

On  our  return  from  our  visit  to  the  fabrica,  Ave  accepted  the 
hospitality  of  Senhor  Bernardini,  who  gave  us  a  sjilendid  dinner. 

We  were  accompanied  to  the  city  by  Colonel  Carson,  whom  I 
found  a  most  interesting  man  of  intelligence  and  common  sense. 
His  hfe  had  been  a  wandering  one.  He  came  out  to  Brazil  to 
die;  but  the  delicious  climate  made  him  a  new  man,  and  he  had 
truly  "gone  ahead," — building  saw-mills,  light-houses,  factories, 


Cottons  from  "York  Mills,"  Saco,  Maine.         501 

and  had  been  abroad,  for  the  Provincial  Government,  to  investi- 
gate the  sugar- phxntations  of  the  West  Indies  and  the  States  on 
the  Mexican  Gulf,  for  the  j)urpose  of  promoting  the  growth  of 
sugar  in  Bahia.  He  gave  me  much  information  concerning  the 
trade  that  might  be  between  the  United  States  and  Bahia.  In  that 
second  port  of  Brazil  we  have  been  annually  losing  ground.  But 
many  articles — for  instance,  cottons,  hardwai'e,  leather,  soajDS,  &e. 
&c. —  might  be  introduced  with  advantage.  The  specimens  of 
leather  from  J.  Chadwick,  Esq.,  of  Newark, —  the  same  found  in 
the  shoes  of  Mr.  Bo^-nton, — and  the  samples  of  cutlery  and  carving 
sent  out  by  Mr.  Garside,  also  of  Newark,  attracted,  b}^  the  excel- 
lence of  their  quality,  much  attention  at  Rio;  and  the  same  may 
be  said  .of  the  rojDC  and  rope-yarn  manufactured  at  the  Excelsior 
Works  by  Mr.  H.  Webber  &  Co.  All  of  these  ai'ticles,  and  many 
others,  if  properly  managed,  might  be  exported  to  Brazil,  whose 
trade  would  really  be  worth  as  much  as  all  the  remainder  of  South 
America  if  we  only  had  it  in  our  possession.  Formerly,  large 
quantities  of  common  drillings  were  exported  from  the  United 
States  to  Bahia,  from  the  York  Mills,  Saco,  Maine,  and  were  held  in 
great  favor  by  the  Brazilians.  This  article  was  actually  imitated 
at  Manchester,  England,  and  sent  out  to  Bahia  Avith  the  stamp, 
"York  Mills,  Saco,  Maine,"  and  sold  as  such.  But,  though  well 
sized  and  fair-looking,  it  soon  proved  worthless  and  fell  into  dis- 
repute, and  the  Brazilians  to  this  day  believe  that  the  Yankees 
cheated  them.  In  England,  common  cottons  cannot  be  made 
equal  to  those  manufactured  in  the  United  States,  because  the 
price  of  the  raw  article  is  too  high,  and  the  best  cotton  is  con- 
sumed for  fine  goods,  and  only  the  "waste"  for  the  coarser; 
whereas,  in  the  American  factories  as  good  a  raw  article  is  used 
for  the  coarse  cloth  as  for  the  finer  textures. 

Brazil  annually  consumes  many  million  yards  of  cotton  cloths, 
both  plain  and  printed.  She  only  produces  about  three  million 
yards :  the  rest  must  be  supplied  from  abroad.  We  honor  fair 
and  honorable  competition ;  we  admire  the  perseverance  of  John 
Bull  in  all  that  is  good,  and  would  have  our  own  merchants 
imitate  the  latter  quality  and  that  only,  and  endeavor  to  have  at 
least  a  fair  share  in  the  trade  with  Brazil,  so  that  we  may  not 
annually  have  a  cash-bill  of  fifteen  millions  of  dollars  against  us 


502  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

when  our  productions  are  needed  by  the  growing  Empire  of  the 
South.  Let  our  far-seeing  commercial  men  turn  their  attention  in 
this  direction,  and,  by  judicious  measures,  secure  a  foothold. 

Just  after  niglitfall  our  little  steamer  was  again  at  the  wharf, 
and  all  returned  home,  delighted  with  the  excursion  to  Yalen^a. 

Before  leaving  the  subject  of  Bahia,  it  becomes  me  to  mention — 
without  entering  into  particulars — that  my  Bible-labors  there,  as 
elsewhere  throughout  the  Empire,  were  prospered  ;  and  I  pray 
that  the  seed  sown,  where  were  Henry  Martyn's  first  missionary 
efibrts  on  foreign  ground,  may  be  prospered  bj'  Him  who  openeth 
and  no  man  shutteth,  and  who  takes  care  of  Ilis  own  word. 

Note  for  1866. — I  profit  by  this  space  to  mention  that  some  of  the  most  import- 
ant explorations  have  been  made  since  1855, — as  that  of  the  province  of  Ceard, 
under  the  direction  of  Srs.  Frei  Allamao,  Capanema,  Lagos,  and  others,  consti- 
tuting a  scientific  commission.  Several  important  rivers  have  been  explored  and 
mapped.  The  Purus,  that  large  Amazonian  affluent,  is  perhaps  more  unknown 
than  the  river  Nile.  Sr.  Herculano  Ferreira  e  Penha,  when  President  of  Parji, 
called  particular  attention  to  this  river  in  one  of  his  annual  messages,  (since 
translated  by  Dr.  Spruce,  the  Upper-Amazonian  traveller,  and  published  by  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society.)  In  1862,  Major  J.  M.  daS.  Coutiuho,  in  the  steamer 
Pirajd,  ascended  this  river,  taking  soundings,  &c.,  for  seven  hundred  miles.  This 
is  remarkable;  for  the  affluents  of  the  Amazon  are  generally  interrupted  in  their 
n.avigation  at  a  comparatively  short  distance  from  their  embouchures.  It  is  believed 
that  the  Purtis  is  the  "  Madre  de  Dios"  of  the  old  Spaniards,  and  that  by  this  river 
Brazilians  can  go  to  the  borders  of  Bolivia.  An  English  explorer,  i\Ir.  Chandless, 
June  15,  IStiG,  reached  even  a  higher  point  on  the  Pur6s  than  Coutinho  attained. 
I  regret  tliat  want  of  space  prevents  my  giving  an  extended  account  of  other 
labors  by  Coutinho,  Halfeld,  (whose  survey  of  the  S.  Francisco  is  a  magnum  oj}us,) 
and  other  river-explorers  like  Dr.  Couto  de  Magalhaes,  who  in  1863  descended 
the  Araguaya  from  near  Goyaz  to  Para. 

In  Bahia  is  a  quartette  of  scientific  men  to  whoni  the  savavts  of  England,  France, 
and  America  are  greatly  indebted  ;  viz.  Dr.  Wucherer,  Professor  in  the  JNIedical  Colleiie 
of  Bahia,  who  has  made  many  contributions  to  the  British  Museum,  department  of 
Natural  History ;  M.  Brunei,  a  Frenchman,  who  has  explored  the  Amazon,  the  San 
Francisco,  and  the  Parnahiba ;  Rev.  Dr.  Nicliolay,  the  physical  geographer,  now  rector 
of  the  English  Chapel  at  Bahia,  who  has  amassed  important  geographical  data  in  this 
portion  of  Brazil ;  and  Sr.  Antonio  Laccrda,  Jr.,  a  native  Brazilian,  educated  in  the 
United  States  and  France,  an  enthusiastic  lover  of  natui-al  science  in  general,  and  well 
kno^vn  iu  Europe  and  America  as  a  most  accomplished  entomologist. 


CHAPTEE  XXV. 


DEPARTURE      FROM      BAHIA THE      VAMPIEE-BAT  —  HIS     MANNER     OF      ATTACK THE 

BITTEN     NEGRO ANNOYANCES    MAGNIFIED — ANACONDAS ONE     THAT    SWALLOWED 

A     HORSE THE     MARMOSET PROVINCE    OF    ALAGOAZ THE     REPUBLIC     OF    PAL- 
MARES  PERNAMBUCO THE     AMENITIES    OF     QUARANTINE-LIFE IMPROVEMENTS 

AT    THE    RECIFE PECULIARITIES    OF     PEKNAMBUCAN    HOUSES BEAUTIFUL    PANG- 
KAMA VARIOUS    DISTRICTS    OF    THE    CITY A  BIBLE-CHRISTIAN — EXTRAORDINARY 

FANATICISM    OF    THE    SEBASTIANISTS — COMMERCE    OF    PERNAMBUCO THE    POPULA- 
TION   OF    THE    INTERIOR THE    SERTANEJO    AND    MARKET-SCENE THE    SUGAR    AND 

COTTON      MART THE      JANGADA PARAHIBA     DO     NORTE NATAL CEARA  —  THE 

.    PAVIOLA TEMPERATURE     AND    PERIODICAL    RAINS THE    CITY    OF    MARANIIAM 

JUDGE    PETIT'S    DESCRIPTION THE    MONTARIA DEPARTURE. 


'i\'\\\4  'iWi^rA^il'  0  the  Xorth  !  Leav- 
ing  the  pleasant  city  of  Bahia,  we  again 
turn  our  faces  toward  the  Amazon.  Our 
steamer  glides  rapidly  over  a  summer  sea,  and,  though  we  visit 
province  after  province,  we  cannot  dwell  long  upon  their  scenery 
and  condition,  for  in  both  they  are  very  similar  to  some  of  the 
lesser  divisions  of  the  Empire  which  we  have  already  considered. 
The  monotony  of  the  voyage  is  broken  up  by  tinkling  guitars, 
merry  singing,  and  eloquent  speaking.  Wo  have  embr^-o  states- 
men on  board;    military  officers  with  fierce  moustaches  and  high- 

503 


604 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


sounding  titles;  medical  students  returning  to  Sergipe,  Alagoaz, 
Pernambuco,  and  Parahiba;  witty,  sallow,  dirty  sertanejos;  black- 
eyed  senhoras;  and  two  or  three  tonsured,  gambling  padres.  All 
form  a  fit  audience;  and  the  vociferous  apoiados,  apoiadidissimoSy 
encourage  the  maiden  efforts  of  the  orators,  and  beguile  the  time 
as  we  steam  along  the  low  coqueii'o-lined  coast. 

A  hazy  bank  of  fog  hanging  in  the  distant  horizon  indicates  the 
mouth  of  the  great  Pvio  San  Francisco,  and  the  boundary-line 
between  the  provinces  of  Sergipe  and  Alagoaz.  Sergipe  is  thinly 
populated  :  but  in  the  eastern  portion  a  considerable  quantity  of 
suo-ar  and  tobacco  is  cultivated;  while  the  western  districts  are 
devoted  chiefly  to  the  rearing  of  cattle. 

In  another  chapter  I  have  spoken  of  the  annoyances  to  which 
herds  are  sometimes  subject  from  the  little  chigoes.  The  younger 
portions  of  the  herds  have  in  some  places  a  more  formidable  enemy 

in  the  huge  vampire-bat.  The 
ov\mer  of  large  possessions  in  the 
northwestern  part  of  Goyaz  said 
he  could  not  rear  cattle  with  any 
success  or  profit,  from  the  havoc 
committed  among  his  calves  by 
the  winged  demons  the  vam- 
pires. I  have  often  had  my  own 
horses  and  mules  bled  and  sucked 
by  these  sanguinary  j^hyllostoriiina. 
The}^  abound  from  Paraguay  to 
the  Isthmus  of  Darien  ;  and  the 
reports  of  early  travellers  and  the  figurative  language  of  poets, 
so  long  discredited,  ai'e  found  to  be  much  nearer  the  truth  than 
the  world  has  believed.  Morning  after  morning  have  I  seen 
beasts  of  burden,  once  strong,  go  staggering,  from  loss  of  blood 
drawn  during  the  night  by  these  hideous  monsters.  In  almost 
every  instance  they  had  taken  the  life-current  from  between  the 
shoulders,  and,  when  they  had  finished  their  mui'derous  work,  the 
stream  had  for  some  time  continued  to  flow.  The  extremities, 
however,  are  the  usual  points  of  attack;  and  the  ears  of  a  horse, 
the  toes  of  a  man,  and  the  comb  of  a  cock,  are  choice  raorceaux 
for  the  display  of  the  vampire's  phlebotomizing  propensities. 


THE      VAMPIRE-BAT. 


The  Vampire-Bat. 


505 


The  exact  manner  by  which  this  bat  manages  to  make  an  inci- 
sion has  long  been  a  matter  of  conjecture  and  dispute.  The 
tongue,  which  is  capable  of  considerable  extension,  is  furnished  at 
its  extremity  with  a  number  of  papillae,  which  appear  to  be  so 
arranged  as  to  form  an  organ  of  suction,  and  their  lips  have  also 
tubercles  symmetrically  arranged.  These  are  the  organs  by  which 
it  is  certain  the  bat  draws  the  life-blood  from  man  and  beast,  and 
some  have  contended  that  the  rouo-h  tong-ue  is  the  instrument  em- 
ployed  for  abrading  the  skin,  so  as  to  enable  it  the  more  readily  to 
draw  its  sustenance  from  the  living  animal.  Others  have  supposed 
that  the  vampire  used  one  of  its  long,  sharp,  canine  teeth  to  make 
the  incision,  which  is  as  small  as  that  mad6  by  a  fine  needle.  Mr. 
Wallace  says  that  he  was  twice  bitten, — once  on  the  toe,  and  a 
second  time  on  the  tip  of  the  nose.  "In  neither  case,"  Avrites  that 
explorer,  "did  I  feel  any  thing,  but  awoke  after  the  operation  was 
completed.  The  wound  is  a  small  round  hole,  the  bleeding  of  which 
it  is  very  difficult  to 
stop.  It  can  hardlj'  be 
a  bite,  as  that  would 
awake  the  sleeper :  it 
seems  most  probable 
that  it  is  either  a 
succession  of  gentle 
scratches  with  the 
sharp  edge  of  the 
teeth,  gradually  wear- 
ing away  the  skin,  or 
a  triturating  with  the 
point  of  the  tongue 
till  the  same  effect  is 
produced.  My  brother 
was  frequently  bitten 
by  them  J  and  his  opi- 
nion was  that  the  bat  applied  one  of  its  long  canine  teeth  to  the 
part,  and  then  flew  round  and  round  on  that  as  a  centre,  till  the 
tooth,  acting  as  an  awl,  bored  a  small  hole, — the  wings  of  the  bat 
serving  at  the  same  time  to  fan  the  patient  into  a  deeper  slumber. 
He  several  times  awoke  while  the  bat  was  at  work,  and,  though 


HEAD    OF     THE    VAMPIRE-BAT,   SIZE    OF    LIFE. 


506  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

of  course  the  creature  immediately  flew  away,  it  was  his  impression 

that  the  operation  was  conducted  in  the  manner  above  described," 

There  is  much  in  the  dental  arrangement  of  these  iihyllostoma  to 

make  this  seem  plausible.     The  molar  teeth  of  the  true  vampire 

or  spectre  bat,  are  of  the  most  carnivorous  character, — the  first 

being  short  and  almost  plain,  and  the  others  sharp   and  cutting 

and  terminating  in  three  and  four  points.     Notwithstanding  this, 

that  most  accurate  naturalist  and  observer — Dr.  Gardner — is  of  the 

opinion  that  it  wounds  its  victim  in  a  manner  entirely  different 

from  the  foregoing  description.     He  says  that, 

"Having  carefully  examined,  in  many  cases,  the  wounds  thus  made  in  horses, 
mules,  pigs,  and  other  animals, — observations  that  have  been  confirmed  by  informa- 
tion received  from  the  inhabitants  of  the  northern  part  of  Brazil, — I  am  led  to  be- 
lieve that  the  puncture  which  the  vampire  makes  in  the  skin  of  animals  is  effected 
by  the  sharp,  hooked  nail  of  its  thumb,  and  that  from  the  wound  thus  made  it  ab- 
stracts the  blood  by  the  suctorial  powers  of  its  lips  and  tongue." 

Some  of  these  bats  measure  two  feet  between  the  tips  of  their 
wings.  There  are  some  persons  whom  a  vampire  will  not  touch, 
while  others  are  constantly  victimized.  The  alligator-riding 
Waterton  states  that  for  eleven  months  ho  slept  alone  in  the  loft 
of  a  wood-cutter's  abandoned  house  in  the  forest,  and,  though  the 
vampires  came  in  and  out  every  night,  and  hovered  over  his 
hammoclv,  yet  he  could  never  have  the  pleasure  of  being  bitten, 
— which  amusement  he  doubtless  would  have  foregone  if  he  had 
liad  the  experience  of  Mr.  Wallace,  who  says  that  a  wound  on  the 
tip  of  the  toe  is  very  painful,  rendering  a  shoe  unbearable  for 
several  days,  and  "forces  one  to  the  conclusion  that,  after  the 
first  time  for  the  curiosity  of  the  thing,  to  be  bitten  by  a  bat  is 
very  disagreeable." 

There  are  instances  in  Northern  Brazil  where  individuals  for 
whom  the  bat  entertained  a  great  predilection  had  to  be  removed 
to  a  different  portion  of  the  country,  where  the  bloodthirsty  ani- 
mals did  not  abound.  One  of  Mr.  Wallace's  party — an  old  negro — 
was  constantly  annoyed  with  them.  He  was  bitten  almost  every 
night;  and,  though  there  were  frequentl}^  half  a  dozen  persons  in 
the  room,  he  Avould  be  the-  party  favored  by  their  attentions. 
"Once,"  Mr.  Wallace  writes,  "he  came  to  us  with  a  doleful  counte- 
nance, telling  us  he  thought  the  bats  meant  to  eat  him  up  quite, 
for,  having  covered  up  his  hands  and  feet  in  a  blanket,  they  had 


Annoyances  Magnified. 


507 


THE     ELECTRIC     EEL. 


descended  beneath  his  hammock  of  open  network,  and,  attacking 
the  most  prominent  part  of  his  person,  had  bitten  him  through  a 
hole  in  his  trousers!" 

Wliile  enumerating  the  various  insects,  reptiles,  and  vicious 
animals  of  Brazil,  the  reader  who  has  not  visited  that  land  would 
be  led  to  the  belief  that  it  is  impossible  to  stir  a  foot  without 
being  affectionately  entwined  by  a  serpent,  sprung  upon  by  a 
jaguar,  or  bitten  by  a  rattlesnake.  In  your  fancy  every  bush 
swarms  with  chigoes  ready  to  en- 
graft their  stock  upon  your  legs, 
every  cranny  contains  a  scorpion 
waiting  to  ensconce  himself  in  your 
pantaloons,  and  every  pool  is  filled 
with  electric  eels  prepared  to  give  you 
a  shocking  reception.  I  can  only  say 
that,  when  travelling  on  the  sea-coast 

and  in  the  interior,  I  never  was  more  annoyed  by  insects  than  I  had 
been  in  the  southwestern  portion  of  the  United  States;  and  that, 
with  a  moderate  degree  of  care,  you  may  journey  fifty  days  with- 
out experiencing  any  thing  more  deadly  than  the 
bit-e  of  a  mosquito.     The  sand-flies  call  forth  more 
complaints  from  naturalists  and  travellers  than  do 
either  serpents,  scorpions,  or  centi2)edes;  and  yet  all 
of  these   are  more  or   less   found  throughout   the 
interior.     But  difficulties  only  seem  insurmountable 
in  the  distance:  they  disappear  when  looked  boldly 
in  the  face,  and  do  not  affect  the  tourist  and  the 
naturalist  one-tenth  as  much  in  reality  as  in  antici- 
pation. 

In  this  connection  a  few  words  may  be  devoted 
to  the  anaconda,  the  largest  of  the  ophidian  family. 
I   confess    myself   to   have    been    incredulous   in    regard   to   the 
powers  and  capacities  of  this  huge  reptile  until  I  went  to  Brazil, 
and  I  have  no  doubt  that  I  shall,  in  the  opinion  of  some,  add  a  few 
pages  to  the  innumerable  "snake-stories." 

The  enormous  anaconda,  {Eunectes  murinus,)  or  sucuruju  of  the 
natives,  (a  portrait  of  which  forms  the  initial  letter  of  this  chapter,) 
inhabits  Tropical  America,  and  particularly  haunts  the  dense  forests 


THE    SCORPION. 


508  Bkazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

near  the  margin  of  rivers.  The  boa-constrictor,  the  jiboa  of  the 
Indians,  is  smaller  and  more  terrestrial.  The  first  of  these  crea- 
tui'cs  which  I  saw  was  a  young  one  belonging  to  a  gentleman  in 
the  province  of  S.  Paulo.  I  afterward  saw  one  in  the  province 
of  Eio  de  Janeiro  that  measured  twenty-five  feet.  Mr.  Nesbitt, 
the  enii-incer  who  took  the  Peruvian  Government  steamers  to  the 
iijjper  affluents  of  the  Amazon,  informed  me  that  he  shot,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Huallaga,  an  anaconda  which  measured  twenty-six  feet 
seven  inches.  An  Italian  physician  at  Camj)inas  (S.  Paulo)  gave 
me  an  account  of  the  manner  in  which  the  sucuruju,  or  anaconda, 
took  his  prey. 

The  giant  ophidian  lies  in  wait  by  the  river-side,  where  quadru- 
peds of  all  kinds  are  likely  to  frequent  to  quench  their  thirst.  He 
patiently  waits  until  some  animal  draws  within  reach,  when,  with  a 
rapidity  almost  incredible,  the  monster  fastens  himself  to  the  neck 
of  his  victim,  coils  round  it,  and  crushes  it  to  death.  After  the  un- 
fortunate animal  has  been  reduced  to  a  shapeless  mass  by  the  pres- 
sure of  the  snake,  its  destroyer  prepares  to  swallow  it  by  sliming 
it  over  with  a  viscid  secretion.  When  the  anaconda  has  gulped 
down  a  heifer  (by  commencing  with  the  tail  and  hind-feet  brought 
together)  he  lies  torpid  for  a  month,  until  his  enormous  meal  is 
digested,  and  then  sallies  forth  for  another.  The  doctor  added 
that  the  sucuruju  does  not  attempt  the  deglutition  and  digestion  of 
the  horns,  but  that  he  lets  them  protrude  from  his  mouth  until 
they  fall  off  by  decay.  It  had  been  said  by  some  casual  observers 
that  the  anaconda  dies  after  swallowing  a  large  animal,  that  the 
buzzards  seen  near  him  eat  him  up;  but  the  doctor  added  that 
close  observation  showed  that  this  statement  was  entirely  erroneous. 
However,  the  vultures  were  always  the  close  attendants  of  the 
sucuruju,  to  aid  him  in  the  delivering  of  his  faeces.  As  to  the 
amount  of  credence  due  to  the  statements  of  Dr.  B.,  relative 
to  the  horns  of  the  swallowed  animal  and  the  peculiar  mid- 
wifery of  the  buzzards,  I  leave  the  reader  to  form  his  own  opinion; 
but  the  facts  are  incontrovertible  in  regard  to  the  capacity  of  the 
anaconda  to  swallow  animals  whose  diameter  is  many  times 
greater  than  its  own.  Of  all  the  travellers  and  explorers  whose 
writings  I  have  read,  Wallace  and  Gardner  are  the  most  raoderate 
in  their  accounts  as  eye-witnesses,  and  are  most  particular  to  re- 


The  Snake  that  Swallowed  a  Horse.  509 

cord  nothing  of  which  they  were  not  fully  persuaded  after  patient 
and  careful  investigation.  Mr.  Wallace  says  "it  is  an  undis- 
puted foct  that  they  devour  cattle  and  horses."  In  the  province 
of  Goyaz,  Dr.  Gardner  came  to  the  fazenda  of  Sape,  situated  at  the 
foot  of  the  Serra  de  Santa  Brida,  near  the  entrance  to  a  small 
valley.  This  plantation  belonged  to  Lieutenant  Lagoeira.  Dr.  G. 
remarks  that  in  this  valley  and  throughout  this  province  the  ana- 
conda attains  an  enormous  size,  sometimes  reaching  forty  feet  in 
length :  the  largest  which  he  saw  measured  thirty-seven  feet, 
but  was  not  alive.  It  had  been  taken  under  the  following  circum- 
stances : — 

"Some  weeks  before  our  arrival  at  Sape,"  writes  Dr.  G,  "tlie  favorite  riding- 
horse  of  Seiihor  Lagoeira,  wliich  bad  been  put  out  to  pasture  not  far  from  the 
house,  could  not  be  found,  although  strict  search  was  made  for  it  all  over  the 
fazenda.  Shortly  after  this  one  of  his  vaqueiros,  (herdsmen,)  in  going  through  the 
wood  by  the  side  of  a  small  stream,  saw  an  enormous  sucurujti  susj^ended  in  the 
fork  of  a  tree  which  hung  over  the  water.  It  was  dead,  but  had  evidently  been 
floated  down  alive  by  a  recent  flood,  and,  being  in  an  inert  state,  it  had  not  been 
able  to  extricate  itself  from  the  fork  before  the  waters  fell.  It  was  dragged  out 
to  the  open  country  by  two  horses,  and  was  found  to  measure  thirty-seven  feet  in 
length.  On  opening  it,  the  bones  of  a  horse  in  a  somewhat  broken  condition,  and 
the  flesh  in  a  half-digested  state,  were  found  within  it:  the  bones  of  the  head  were 
uninjured.  From  these  circumstances  we  concluded  that  the  boa  had  swallowed  the 
hoi'se  entire.  In  all  kinds  of  snakes  the  capacity  for  swallowing  is  prodigious.  I 
have  often  seen  one  not  thicker  than  my  thumb  swallow  a  frog  as  large  as  my  fist; 
and  I  once  killed  a  rattlesnake  about  four  feet  long,  and  of  no  great  thickness, 
which  had  swallowed  not  less  than  three  large  frogs.  I  have  also  seen  a  very  slender 
snake  that  frequents  the  roofs  of  houses  swallow  an  entire  bat  three  times  its  own 
thickness.  If  such  be  the  case  with  these  smaller  kinds,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered 
at  that  one  thirty-seven  feet  long  should  be  able  to  swallow  a  horse,  particularly 
when  it  is  known  that  previously  to  doing  so  it  breaks  the  bones  of  the  animal  by 
coiling  itself  round  it,  and  afterward  lubricates  it  with  a  slimy  matter,  which  it  baa 
the  power  of  secreting  in  its  mouth." 

Near  Sape  many  of  the  marmoset  monkeys  abound,  and  a  very 
small  species,  sometimes  called  the  ouistiti,  {Jacchus  auritua,)  is 
exceedingly  nimble,  and  not  wanting  in  beauty. 

The  Brazilian  girls  are  fond  of  pets;  and,  among  others,  a  great 
favorite  is  this  ouistiti,  which  is  rarely  ever  seen  "out  of  Brazil^ 
even  in  the  best  zoological  collections.  It  has  a  skin  like  chinchilla 
fur,  and  its  face  presents  none  of  the  repulsive  features  of  other 
monkej^s.  These  little  animals  become  very  tame  and  sleep  ujwn 
the  lap  or  shoulders  of  their  mistress.  Their  actions  are  most 
graceful  and  rapid.     Two  that  a  friend  of  mine  embarked  for  the 


510 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


United  States  could  mount  the  ship's  ropes  ten  times  as  rapidly 
as  the  nimblest  sailor.  If  birds  came  on  board,  they  hunted  them 
from  rope  to  rope,  and  passed  along  under  the  spar  upon  which 
their  victim  sat,  and  then  pounced  upon  it  with  certain  aim.  In 
their  native  forests  thc}^  are  very  fond  of  insects,  which  they  catch 
with  great  expertness.  They  are  excessively  timid  when  roughly 
handled:  one  of  the  two  referred  to  was  teased  by  the  sailors,  and 
in  consequence  died  in  convulsions.     It  was  p)itiful  to  see  the  other 


THE      MARMOSET. 


look  at  himself  in  a  glass,  making  a  plaintive  noise  and  licking  the 
reflection  of  his  own  face.  They  were  so  small  that  a  square  cigar- 
box,  the  length  of  one  "Havana,"  contained  them  both.  "With 
great  care  the  surviving  ouistiti  was  kept  alive  through  a  Northern 
winter.  His  food  was  bread,  sponge-biscuit,  apples,  and  now  and 
then  a  chicken's  neck  or  a  mouse.  It  was  curious  to  see  him 
devour  the  latter.  He  began  at  the  snout  and  carefully  jjushed 
back  the  skin,  eating  the  bones  and  every  thing  until  he  reached 
the  tail,  which  was  all  that  he  left  inside  the  skin.  His  last  effort 
was  to  aid  in  erecting  a  parsonage,  by  being  exhibited  at  a  fair  for 
that  purpose.  But  his  benevolence  was  too  much  for  him :  the  little 
fellow  pined  and  died,  after  having  endured  a  succession  of  fits;  and 
his  end  was  doubtless  hastened   by  the  breath  of  his  numerous 


The  Province  of  Alagoas.  511 

visitors,  and  by  an  escape  of  gas  in  the  chamber  where  lie  was 
kept  J  for  the  deHcate  monkeys  in  the  London  Zoological  Gardens 
were  all  killed  by  being  in  a  room  with  a  stove.  An  open  grate 
was  substituted,  and  their  successors  escajDed. 

Next  to  Sergipe  in  our  northward  route  is  the  small  province  of 
Alagoas.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  lake — or,  strictly  speak- 
ing, the  inlet — on  which  stands  its  old  capital,  the  city  of  Alagoas. 
The  principal  seaport  of  the  province  is  Maceio.  Into  this  port  we 
entered,  after  a  passage  of  about  thirty-six  hours  from  Bahia.  As 
we  bore  up  to  land  in  the  morning  after  our  second  night  at  sea, 
we  found  the  coast  very  flat,  sometimes  exhibiting  a  sandy  beach, 
and  anon  banks  of  eighty  or  ninety  feet  elevation,  denominated, 
from  their  prevailing  color,  the  Eed  Clifi's.  "VVe  approached  so  near 
these  cliffs  as  to  perceive  distinctly  their  stratification,  which 
resembled  successive  layers  of  brick. 

The  most  favored  island  of  the  Southern  seas  can  hardly  present 
a  more  lovely  aspect  tlian  does  the  harbor  of  Maceio.  The  port  is 
formed  by  a  reef  of  rocks  visible  at  ebb-tide,  which  runs  north  and 
south  for  a  sufficient  distance  in  a  right  line,  and  seems  to  form  an 
angle  with  an  extreme  point  of  land  on  the  north.  From  the  same 
point  the  beach  sweeps  inward  in  the  form  of  a  semicircle.  The 
sand  on  this  beach  exhibits  a  snowy  whiteness,  as  if  bleached  by 
the  foam  of  the  ocean-waves  that  unceasingly  dash  upon  it. 

A  little  back  from  the  water  is  a  single  line  of  white  houses,  em- 
bowered here  and  there  by  groves  of  majestic  coqueiros,  whose 
noble  fruit,  clustered  amid  their  branching  leaves,  might  be 
thought  to  resemble  jewels  set  among  the  plumes  of  a  cox'onet. 
Upon  a  hill-side,  some  distance  in  the  rear,  stands  the  city,  con- 
taining a  population  of  about  six  thousand. 

My  visit  to  Maceio  was  most  agreeable,  connected  as  it  was  with 
the  S3'mpathizing  Brazilians  and  others  who  were  glad  to  receive 
the  Word,  and  who  gave  me  many  pleasant  assurances  that  the 
sojourn  of  my  co-laborer  and  predecessor  had  not  been  forgotten. 
One  old  man,  with  teai*s  in  his  eyes,  referred  to  Dr.  Kidder's  visit, 
and  aided  me  in  the  dissemination  of  the  Truth. 

Maceio  is  the  depot  of  large  quantities  of  cotton  and  sugar  which 
are  brought  down  from  the  interior.  Good  brown  sugar  can  be 
purchased  at  Maceio  for  two  dollars  and  fifty  cents  per  hundred- 


512  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

weight,  and  the  planters  admit  that  they  can  raise  sugar  at  a  profit 
at  a  market-price  of  less  than  two  dollars  per  hundredweight. 

This  province,  fifteen  years  ago,  was  in  a  constant  state  of 
turmoil;  but  for  the  last  ten  years  it  has  settled  down  into  quiet- 
ness, and  is  advancing  with  the  general  improvement  of  the  Empire. 

After  leaving  Maceio,  we  j)ass  along  a  coast  interesting  in  the 
history  of  the  past.  Before  us  we  see  Cape  St.  Augustine,  which 
was  the  first  portion  of  the  New  World  discovered  south  of  the 
equator.  Our  track  is  that  over  which,  in  early  times,  sailed  Caven- 
dish and  Lancaster,  the  great  English  freebooters,  who  devastated 
the  Brazilian  coast-towns  in  1591  and  '93.  Here,  too,  passed  the 
ships  of  Lord  Cochrane  and  Admirals  Taylor  and  Jewett,  two  Eng- 
lishmen and  an  American  in  the  service  of  Brazil,  who  by  their 
bravery  and  skill  defeated  the  Portuguese  fleets  and  did  much  to 
secure  the  Northern  cities  to  the  new  regime. 

In  the  interior,  about  sixty  miles  from  Porto  Calvo,  there  was  a 
curious  communit}^,  hidden  away  amid  groves  of  palm-trees,  having 
a  regular  military  and  priestly  government,  and  known  as  the  Re- 
pvblic  of  Palmares.  It  seems  almost  like  romance  to  read  of  a  set- 
tlement composed  of  fugitive  slaves,  who  were  perfectly  organized, 
and  from  time  to  time  Avent  forth  on  predatory  excursions,  carrying 
off  treasure  and  cattle,  and  taking  captive  the  wives  and  daughters 
of  the  Portuguese  and  then  exacting  a  heavy  ransom. 

They  had  villages  and  towns;  and,  in  addition  to  their  marauding 
sallies,  they  carried  on  a  regular  trade  with  some  of  the  colonies. 
They  flourished  for  sixty  years;  and  such,  at  length,  became  their 
audacity  that  regular  war  was  declared  against  them,  and  for  months 
the  Portuguese  sustained  the  severest  contest  that  they  had  ever 
been  obliged  to  undertake  west  of  the  coast.  The  little  State  was 
heroically  defended;  but  when,  after  it  had  gallantly  held  out 
against  great  odds,  cannon  were  brought  to  the  aid  of  the  besiegers, 
the  Eepublic  of  Palmares  fell.  When  all  hope  was  gone,  the  leader 
and  the  most  resolute  of  his  followers  retired  to  the  summit  of  a 
high  rock  Avithin  the  enclosure,  and,  preferring  death  to  slavery, 
threw  themselves  from  the  precipice, — men  worthy  of  a  better  fate 
for  their  courage  and  their  cause. 

In  its  consequences  to  the  vanquished,  this  victory  resembled  those 
of  the  inhuman  wars  of  antiquity.     The  survivors  of  all  ages  and  of 


The  Republic  of  Palmares. 


513 


either  sex  were  brought  away  as  slaves.  A  fifth  of  the  men  were 
selected  for  the  Crown :  the  rest  were  divided  among  the  captors  as 
their  booty,  and  all  who  were  thought  likely  to  fly,  were  trans- 
ported to  distant  parts  of  Brazil,  or  to  Portugal.  The  women  and 
children  remained  in  Pernambuco,  being  thus  sej^arated  forever 
from  their  husbands  and  their  fathers. 

Twelve  hours  after  we  had  left  Maceio,  the  towers  and  domes  of 
the  Eeeife,  or  Pernambuco,  appeared,  like  those  of  Venice,  to  be 
gradually  rising  from  the  sparkling  water.  Far  to  our  right,  on  a 
bold  and  verdant  hill,  we  could  descry  the  suburb  called  Olinda, 
(translated  the  beautiful,')  seeming  like  a  rich  mosaic  of  white  towers, 
vermilion  roofs,  bright  green  palm-trees,  and  bananeiros.  It  is, 
however,  in  this  case  distance  that  lends  enchantment  to  the 
view;  for  Olinda,  whose  inhabitants  once  looked  down  in  contempt 


r 
r 


THE   JANGADA,   AND   THE   ENTRANCE   TO   PERNAMBUCO. 


upon  their  commercial  neighbors  of  the  Pecife,  is  now  in  decay. 

The  law-school,  with  its  three  hundred  students,  has  been  tran.s- 

ferred   to    Pernambuco,    and    this    once    valiant    capital   of    the 

equatorial  colonies  of  Portugal  is  now  going  rapidly  to  decay. 

Olinda  deserves   to  be  regarded  as  S.  Vincente,  and  the  two 

places  may  be  considered  as  exhibiting  the  classic  remains  of  the 

33 


514  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

colonial  system  of  Portugal.  Ol'nda,  however,  reminds  us  nearly 
as  much  of  the  Dutch  as  it  does  of  the  Portuguese,  being  known 
in  the  annals  of  Holland  as  the  ancient  Mauricius,  upon  which  the 
ambitious  Count  of  Nassau  staked  his  fortune  and  his  fame. 

As  we  drew  near  to  Pernambuco,  the  warehouses  and  the  ship- 
ping presented  the  features  of  a  large  commercial  town,  and  the 
resemblance  between  it  and  the  silent  Queen  of  the  Adriatic  no 
longer  forced  itself  upon  the  beholder.  The  waves  outside  of  the 
curious  reef,  (recife,)  or  natural  breakwater,  were  dotted  with 
lateen-sailed  jangadas  or  catamarans,  and  the  proprietors  of  these 
dancing  rigged  rafts  seemed  literally  at  sea  "on  a  log." 

Our  steamer  came  proudly  up  to  the  fierce  little  fort  and  white 
pharo  that  (so  low  is  the  reef)  appeared  to  rise  from  the  water. 
We  anchored  on  the  seaward  side  of  the  fortress  and  awaited  with 
anxious  expectation  the  visit  of  the  health-boat.  Every  passenger, 
from  the  wild  matuto  (forester)  and  sertanejo  to  the  dignified 
medico  and  the  vain  officer  of  the  Imperial  army,  was  rejoicing  at 
his  approaching  liberation.  The  health-boat  came  bobbing  around 
the  fort,  and  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  hearing  that  we  should  be 
quarantined  for  ten  days  on  an  island  four  miles  west  of  the  city. 
There  was  really  no  necessity  for  this,  for  our  health-bill  from 
Maceio  was  immaculate.  It  is  needless  to  narrate  our  adventures 
in  getting  to  the  quarantine;  our  navigation  on  a  jangada;  how 
fifty  pejr-ons  were  quartered  in  four  rooms  (comfortable  for  eight 
individuals)  which  would  have  been  unbearable  except  for  the 
capital  ventilation  through  the  arched  tiles;  how  merry  we  were, 
and  contented,  under  the  circumstances;  how  we  were  refreshed 
by  cocoanut-milk  and  bracing  breezes;  how  I  had  opportunities 
for  doing  good;  how  we  were  all  liberated  and  a  hundred  more 
put  into  our  places;  and  how  kind  was  my  reception  (when  I  was 
permitted  inside  of  Pernambuco)  by  Mr.  Samuel  Johnson  and  Mr. 
Hitch,  (the  heads  of  two  houses,  English  and  American.)  All  this 
must  be  unwritten  history.  As  has  been  said  of  a  traveller's  delay 
in  Italy,  it  may  be  said  of  this  detention  at  Pernambuco,  in  logical 
language  there  was  no  causa  causans;  but  the  causa  sine  qua  non 
was  that  we  Avere  in  Brazil,  where  the  "  brief  authority"  of  officials 
is  sometimes  notoriously  overbearing. 

Pernambuco  is  the  third  city  of  Brazil,  and  is  the  greatest  sugar- 


The  City  of  Pernambuco.  515 

mart  in  the  Empire.  Its  population  is  variously  estimated  at 
eighty  thousand  and  one  hundred  thousand.  In  all  respects  Per- 
namhuco  is  a  thriving  and  a  progressive  city.  Those  who  remem- 
ber its  former  unpaved  streets  and  its  other  inconveniences  for 
comfort  and  conveyance  would  now  be  surprised  at  the  various 
changes  and  improvements.  Water-works  have  been  constructed, 
good  bridges  erected,  and  extensive  quays  have  been  formed  ou 
the  margins  of  the  rivers  that  would  serve,  according  to  Mr.  Ilad- 
field,  as  models  for  the  conservators  of  "Father  Thames."  Printing- 
presses  send  forth  dailies  and  weeklies,  besides  from  time  to  time 
respectable-sized  books  and  Government  documents.  Education  is 
looking  up,  whether  we  consider  the  common  schools,  the  collegios, 
or  the  flourishing  institution  for  legal  instruction,  which  rivals  that 
of  San  Paulo. 

The  cit}'  is  divided  into  three  parishes  or  districts,  called,  seve- 
rally, S.  Pedro  de  Gonsalves  or  Recife,  S.  Antonio,  and  Boa  Vista, 
which  are  connected  by  bridges  and  good  roads. 

Man}'  of  the  houses  of  Pernambuco  are  built  in  a  style  unknown 
in  other  parts  of  Brazil.  A  description  of  one  where  my  prede- 
cessor was  entertained  by  a  friend  may  serve  "as  a  specimen  of  the 
style  referred  to  : — • 

"It  was  six  stories  high.  The  first  or  ground  floor  was  denominated  the  arma- 
zem,  and  was  occupied  by  male  servants  at  night ;  the  second  furnished  apartments 
for  the  counting-room,  &c. ;  the  third  and  fourth  for  parlors  and  lotlsring-rooms ; 
the  fifth  for  dining-rooms;  and  the  sixth  for  a  kitchen.  Readers  of  domestic  habits 
will  perceive  that  one  special  advantage  of  having  a  kitchen  located  in  the  attic 
arises  from  the  upward  tendency  of  the  smoke  and  effluvia  universally  produced  by 
culinary  operations.  A  disadvantage,  however,  inseparable  from  the  arrangement, 
is  the  necessity  of  conveying  various  heavy  articles  up  so  many  flights  of  stairs, 
AVater  might  be  mentioned,  for  example,  which,  in  the  absence  of  all  mechanical 
contrivances  for  such  an  object,  was  carried  up  on  the  heads  of  negroes.  Any  one 
will  perceive  that  the  liability  of  mistake,  in  endeavoring  to  preserve  the  equili- 
brium of  each  vessel  of  water  thus  transported,  exposed  the  lower  portion  of  the 
house  to  the  danger  of  a  flood.  Surmounting  the  sixth  story,  and  constituting,  in 
one  sense,  the  seventh,  was  a  splendid  observatory,  glazed  above  and  on  all  sides. 

"The  prospect  from  this  observatory  was  extended  and  interesting  in  the  ex- 
treme. It  was  just  such  a  place  as  the  stranger  should  always  seek  in  order  to 
receive  correct  impressions  of  the  locality  and  environs  of  the  city.  His  gaze  from 
such  an  elevation  will  not  fail  to  rest  with  interest  upon  the  broad  bay  of  Pernam- 
buco, stretching,  with  a  moderate  but  regular  incurvation  of  the  coast,  between  the 
promontory  of  Olinda  and  Cape  St.  Augustine,  thirty  miles  below.  This  bay  is  gene- 
rally adorned  with  a  great  number  of  jangadas,  which,  with  their  broad  lateen  sails, 
•aake  no  mean  appearance.     Besides  the  commerce  of  the  port  itself,  vessels  often 


516  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

appear  in  the  offing,  bound  on  distant  voyages,  both  north  and  south.  No  porl  is 
more  easy  of  access.  A  vessel  bound  to  either  the  Indian  or  the  Pacific  Ocean,  or 
on  her  passage  homeward  to  either  the  United  States  or  Europe,  may,  with  but  a 
slight  deviation  from  her  best  course,  put  into  Peruambuco.  She  may  come  to  an 
anchor  in  tlic  Lameirao,  or  outer  harbor,  and  hold  communication  with  the  shore, 
either  to  obtain  advices  or  refreshments,  and  resume  her  voyage  at  pleasure,  with- 
out becoming  subject  to  port-charges.  This  is  very  convenient  for  whaling-ships 
and  South  Sea  traders.  In  order  to  discharge  or  receive  cargo,  vessels  are  required 
to  come  within  the  reef  and  to  conform  to  usual  port-regulations. 

•'Men-of-war  seldom  remain  long  here.  None  of  large  draught  can  pass  the  bar, 
and  those  that  can  are  required — probably  in  view  of  the  danger  of  accidents  when 
so  close  to  the  city — to  deposit  their  powder  at  the  fort.  Few  naval  commanders 
are  willing  to  yield  to  such  a  requirement;  while,  at  the  same  time,  their  berth  in 
the  Lameirao  cannot  be  relied  on  for  either  quietness  or  safety.  The  powerful 
winds  and  heavy  roll  of  the  sea  are  frequently  suificieut  to  part  the  strongest  cables. 
These  are  sufficient  reasons  why  Pernambuco  is  not  a  favorite  naval  station  either 
for  Brazil  or  for  foreign  nations.  The  commercial  shipping  is  under  full  view  from 
the  observatory,  yet  it  is  too  near  at  hand  and  too  densely  crowded  together  to 
make  an  imposing  appearance. 

"Olinda,  seen  from  this  distance,  must  attract  the  attention  and  the  admiration 
of  every  one.  Of  this  city  set  upon  a  hill,  one  is  at  a  loss  whether  to  admire  most 
the  whitened  houses  and  massive  temples,  or  the  luxuriant  foliage  intei'spersed 
among  them,  and  in  which  those  edifices  on  the  hill-side  seem  to  be  partially 
buried.  From  this  point  a  line  of  highlands  sweeps  inward  with  a  tolerably  regular 
arc,  terminating  at  Cape  St.  Augustine,  and  forming  a  semilunar  reconcave,  analo- 
gous to  that  of  Baliia.  The  entire  summit  of  these  highlands  is  crowned  with  green 
forests  and  foliage.  Indeed,  from  the  outermost  range  of  vision  to  the  very  pre- 
cincts of  the  city,  throughout  the  extended  plain,  circumscribed  by  five-sixths  of 
the  imagined  arc,  scarcely  an  opening  appears  to  the  eye,  although,  in  fact,  the 
country  overlooked  is  populous  and  cultivated.  Numbers  of  buildings,  also,  within 
the  suburbs  of  the  city,  are  overtowered  and  wholly  or  partially  hidden  by  lofty  palms, 
mangueiras,  cajueiros,  and  other  trees.  The  interval  between  Recife  and  Olinda  is 
in  striking  contrast  to  this  appearance.  It  is  a  perfectly  barren  bank  of  sand,  a 
narrow  beach,  upon  one  side  of  which  the  ocean  breaks,  while  on  the  other  side, 
only  a  few  rods  distant  and  nearly  parallel,  runs  a  branch  of  the  Beberibe  River. 

"  At  a  distance  varying  from  one-fourth  to  half  a  mile  from  the  shore  runs  the 
bank  of  rocks  already  mentioned  as  extending  along  the  greater  portion  of  the 
northern  coast  of  Brazil.  Its  top  is  scarcely  visible  at  high-tide,  being  covered 
with  the  surf,  which  dashes  over  it  in  sheets  of  foam.  At  low-water  it  is  left  dry, 
and  stands  like  an  artificial  wall,  with,  a  surface  sufficiently  even  to  form  a  beautiful 
promenade  in  the  very  midst  of  the  sea.  This  natural  parapet  is  approached  by  the 
aid  of  boats.  It  is  found  to  be  from  two  to  five  rods  in  thickness.  Its  edges  are  a 
little  worn  and  fractured,  but  both  its  sides  are  perpendicular  to  a  great  depth. 
The  rock,  in  its  external  appearance,  is  of  a  dark-brown  color,  and,  when  broken, 
it  is  found  to  be  composed  of  a  very  hard  species  of  sandstone  of  a  yellow  com- 
plexion, in  which  numerous  bivalves  are  embedded  in  a  state  of  complete  preserva- 
tion. Various  species  of  small  sea-shells  may  be  collected  in  the  water-worn  cavi- 
ties of  the  surface.  At  several  points  deep  winding  fissures  extend  through  a  portion 
of  the  reef;  but  in  general  its  appearance  is  quite  regular, — much  more  so,  doubt- 
less, than  any  artificial  wall  could  be  after  hundreds  of  years'  exposure  to  the  wear- 


Various  Districts  of  the  City.  5.17 

ing  of  the  ocean-waves.  The  abrupt  opening  in  this  reef,  by  which  an  entrnnce  is 
offered  to  vessels,  is  scarcely  less  remarkable  than  the  protection  which  is  secured 
to  them  when  once  behind  this  rocky  bulwark. 

"  Opposite  the  northern  extremity  of  the  city,  as  though  a  breach  had  been  arti- 
ficially cut,  the  rock  opens,  leaving  a  passage  of  sufficient  depth  and  width  to  admit 
ships  of  sixteen  feet  draught  at  high-water.  Great  skill  is  requisite,  however,  to 
conduct  them  safely  in ;  for  no  sooner  have  they  passed  the  reef  than  it  becomes 
necessary  to  tack  ship  and  keep  close  under  the  lee  of  the  rock,  in  order  to  avoid 
the  danger  of  running  aground. 

"Close  to  this  opening  and  on  the  extremity  of  the  reef  stands  the  fort,  built 
at  an  early  day  by  the  Dutch.  Its  foundations  were  admirably  laid,  being  com- 
posed of  long  blocks  of  stone,  imported  from  Europe,  hewed  square.  They  were 
placed  lengthwise  to  the  sea,  and  then  bound  together  by  heavy  bands  of  iron.  A 
wall  of  the  same  nature  extends  from  the  base  of  the  fortification  to  the  body  of  the 
reef.  This  wall  appears  to  have  become  perfectly  solidified,  and,  in  fact,  aug- 
mented by  a  slight  crust  of  accumulating  petrifaction.  This  circumstance  corrobo- 
rates the  idea  that  the  rock,  on  the  whole,  may  be  increasing,  like  the  coral  reefs 
of  the  South  Sea  Islands. 

"The  district  of  S.  Pedro — frequently  called  that  of  the  Recife — is  not  large. 
Its  buildings  are  most  of  them  ancient  in  their  appearance :  they  exhibit  the  old 
Dutch  style  of  architecture,  and  many  of  them  retain  their  latticed  balconies  or 
gelovzias.  These  gelouzias  were  common  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  at  the  period  of  Dom 
John's  arrival.  But  that  monarch,  dreading  the  use  that  might  be  made  of  them 
as  places  of  concealment  for  assassins,  ordered  them  to  be  pulled  down;  and  they 
are  now  rarely  seen  in  the  metropolis. 

"The  principal  street  of  the  Recife  is  Rua  da  Cruz.  At  its  northern  extremity, 
toward  the  Arsenal  da  ^larinha,  it  is  wide  and  imposing  in  its  aspect.  Towai'd  the 
other  end,  although  flanked  by  high  houses,  it  becomes  very  narrow,  like  most  of 
the  other  streets  b}'  which  it  is  intersected.  A  single  bridge  connects  this  portion 
of  the  city  with  S.  Antonio,  the  middle  district. 

"  S.  Antonio  is  the  finest  part  of  Periiambuco  when  considered  as  a  city.  It  con- 
tains the  palace  and  military  arsenal,  in  front  of  which  a  wall  has  recently  been 
extended  along  the  river's  bank.  Just  above  the  water's  edge  has  been  placed  a  row 
of  green-painted  seats  for  the  accommodation  of  the  public.  These  are  inviting, 
mornings  and  evenings,  although,  in  the  absence  of  shade-trees,  the  rays  of  the  sun, 
pouring  upon  the  turfiess  sand,  render  the  heat  intolerable  throughout  the  day. 

"The  principal  streets  of  this  section  of  the  city,  together  with  an  open  square 
used  as  a  market-place,  are  spacious  and  elegant.  The  bridge  crossing  the  other 
river  is  longer  and  more  expensive  than  the  one  just  described,  although  the  depth 
of  the  stream  beneath  is  not  so  great.  Oa  the  southern  or  southwestern  bank 
of  this  river  stands  the  British  Chapel,  in  a  very  suitable  and  convenient  location. 
That  edifice  is  built  in  modern  style,  and  generally  well  attended  by  the  English 
residents,  on  Sabbath-days,  both  morning  and  evening.  Boa  Vista  is  very  exten- 
sive, and  is  chiefly  occupied  by  residences  and  counti-y-seats.  A  few  large  build- 
ings stand  near  the  river,  and,  like  most  of  those  in  the  other  sections  of  the  town, 
are  devoted  in  part  to  commercial  purposes.  Beyond  these,  the  houses  are  gene- 
rally low,  but  large  upon  the  ground,  and  surrounded  by  gardens,  here  denomi- 
nated sitios.  The  streets  here  were  formerly  unpaved,  and  unhappily  suffered  to 
remain  in  a  most  wretched  condition.  Sand,  dry  and  wonderfully  comminuted, 
abounds  on  all  sides,  unless  variegated  by  filthy  pools  of  standing- water. 


518  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

"The  hedges  in  the  environs  of  Pernambuco  are  similar  to  those  of  Rio,  although 
generally  more  rank  in  growth.  Many  of  the  houses  exhibit  an  expensive  and  at 
the  same  time  tasteful  style  of  consti-uction.  I  was  pointed  to  one  in  the  veranda 
of  which  was  arranged  a  collection  of  statues.  The  owner  being  a  wealthy  and 
notorious  slave-deiilur,  some  wag,  a  few  years  since,  thinking  either  to  oblige  or  to 
vex  him,  crept  in  by  night  and  supplied  him  with  a  cargo  of  new  negroes,  by  paint- 
ing all  the  marble  faces  black." 

Pernambuco  has  ever  manifested  more  activity  than  any  other 
of  the  Northern  provinces.  It  was  the  first  to  decLarc  against  the 
Portuguese  Government,  and  several  times  there  have  been  com- 
motions that  threatened  for  a  time  the  dismemberment  of  the  State; 
but  at  the  present  time  there  is  no  province  more  faithfuL  An 
outbreak  occurred  in  1848,  in  consequence  of  a  band  of  miscreants 
from  the  interior  joining  witli  a  few  disaffected  in  the  city;  but 
their  leaders  were  summarily  dealt  with,  and  since  that  time  the 
province  has  remained  perfectly  tranquil. 

The  state  of  religion  at  Pernambuco  is  not  obviously  different 
from  that  in  other  pai'ts  of  the  Empire.  The  monasteries  are  in 
low  repute,  having  at  present  but  few  inmates.  The  hospicio  of 
the  Barbadinhos,  or  Italian  Capuchins,  has  been  converted  into  a 
foundling-hospital.  None  of  the  churches  are  remarkable  for  their 
beauty,  or  splendor  of  construction.  That  of  Nossa  Senhora  da 
ConceigiJo  dos  Militares  is  distinguished  for  a  singular  painting  upon 
its  walls,  designed  to  represent  the  battle  of  the  Gararapes,  and  to 
commemorate  the  victory  which  was  then  obtained  over  the 
heretical  Hollanders. 

I  followed  up  the  Bible-labors  of  my  predecessor,  and  found  some 
unexpected  openings  for  sowing  the  good  seed.  There  never  was 
a  more  favorable  opportunity  than  the  present  for  the  introduction 
of  truth  and  of  a  pure  worship  into  this  portion  of  Brazil.  What 
is  most  needed  in  view  of  this  object  is  a  number  of  fearless  and 
faithful  Brazilian  preachers. 

Through  the  English  chaplain,  Dr.  Kidder  was  made  acquainted 

with  a  priest  who  had  alread}''  become  convinced  of  the  necessity 

of  some  new  measures  for  enlightening  the  people,  and  who  had 

recently  taken    an    active  part   in  circulating  Bibles  and  tracts. 

He  thus  records  his  interview  with  this  Bible-Christian: — 

"  I  met  with  this  padre  a  few  days  after  my  arrival  in  the  city.  He  came  into 
the  house  of  a  friend  with  whom  I  was  dining,  and,  happening  to  lay  his  hand  upor 
some  of  the  new  tracts  which  I  brought  along,  he  broke  forth  in  expressions  of 


A  Bible-Christian.  519 

delight,  saying  that  he  had  use  for  a  quantity  of  these  publications.  In  addition 
to  their  subject-matter,  he  was  particularly  pleased  with  their  severally  bearing  the 
imprint  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  a  circumstance  that  indicated  the  radiation  of  light  from 
that  important  point  This  individual  was  a  man  fifty  years  old,  as  much  like  the 
ex-Regent  Feijo  in  his  appearance  as  any  other  Brazilian  I  ever  saw.  Part  of  his 
education  he  had  received  in  Portugal,  part  in  Brazil.  He  had  once  been  chaplain 
to  the  prison-island  of  Fernando  de  Noronha.  Owing  to  his  recent  change  of  views 
on  several  important  topics,  he  had  suffered  considerable  persecution  from  his 
bisbDp  and  some  others  of  the  clergy,  but  he  seemed  in  no  way  disheartened  by  this. 

"  His  opinion  was,  that  the  silent  distribution  of  tracts  and  Scriptures  among 
those  persons  and  families  disposed  to  read  and  prize  them  was  the  best  method 
of  doing  good  in  the  country  at  present.  And  most  faithfully  did  he  pursue  that 
method,  calling  on  me  every  few  days  for  a  fresh  supply  of  evangelical  publications. 

"I  one  day  returned  his  visit,  and  found  him  surrounded  with- quite  a  library, 
among  which  his  Bible  attracted  my  attention,  as  having  been  for  a  year  or  two  past 
his  one  book.  Almost  every  page  in  it  was  marked  as  containing  something  of  very 
especial  interest.  I  could  but  wish  that  all  with  whom  the  Bible  is  not  a  rare 
book  prized  it  as  highly  as  did  this  padre,  who,  after  having  spent  the  greater 
portion  of  his  life  as  a  minister  of  religion  according  to  the  best  of  his  previous 
knowledge,  now  in  his  declining  years  had  found  the  word  of  God  to  be  'a  light  to 
his  feet  and  a  lamp  to  his  path.'  " 

In  1838,  there  occurred  in  this  province  one  of  the  most  extra- 
ordinary scenes  of  fanaticism  which  is  a  melancholy  pi'oof  that  the 
boast  of  the  Eomish  Church  is  in  vai.i  that  such  extravagances  are 
confined  to  Protestant  countries.  The  following  narrative,  con- 
densed from  the  official  documents  before  me,  may  challenge  a 
parallel  in  either  history  or  mythology.  In  order  that  the  reader 
may  fully  understand  it,  I  will  remind  him  that  there  prevails 
in  Portugal,  and  to  some  extent  in- Brazil,  a  sect  called  Sebas- 
tianists.  The  distino-uishino;  tenet  of  this  sect  is  the  belief  that 
Dom  Sebastian,  the  King  of  Portugal  who,  in  1577,  undertook 
an  expedition  against  the  Moors  in  Africa,  and  who,  having  been 
defeated,  never  returned,  is  still  alive,  and  is  destined  yet  to  make 
his  reappearance  on  earth,  when  all  that  the  most  enthusiastic 
Millerarian  ever  anticipated  will  be  realized.  JSTumberless  dreams  and 
prophecies,  together  with  the  interpretation  of  marvellous  portents 
confirming  this  idea,  have  been  circulated  with  so  much  of  clerical 
sanction,  that  many  have  believed  the  senseless  whim.  Nor  have 
there  been  lacking  persons,  at  various  periods,  who  have  under- 
taken to  fulfil  the  prophecies,  and  to  prove  themselves  the  veritable 
Dom  Sebastian. 

The  prime  point  of  faith  is,  that  he  will  yet  come,  and  that  too, 
as  each  believer  has  it,  in  his  own  lifetime.     The  Portuo;uese  look 


520  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

for  his  appearance  at  Lisbon,  but  the  Brazilians  generally  think  it 
most  likely  that  he  will  first  revisit  his  own  city,  St.  Sebastian. 

It  appears  that  a  reckless  villain,  named  Joao  Antonio,  fixed 
upon  a  remote  part  of  the  province  of  Pernambuco,  near  Pianco, 
in  the  Comarca  de  Flores,  for  the  appearance  of  the  said  Dom  Se- 
bastian. The  place  designated  was  a  dense  forest,  near  wdiich 
were  known  to  be  two  acroceraunian  caverns.  This  spot  the  im- 
postor said  was  an  enchanted  kingdom,  which  was  about  to  be 
disenchanted,  whereupon  Dom  Sebastian  would  immediately  appear 
at  the  head  of  a  great  army,  with  glory,  and  with  power  to  confer 
wealth  and  happiness  upon  all  who  should  anticipate  his  coming  by 
associating  themselves  with  said  Joao  Antonio. 

As  might  be  expected,  he  found  followers,  who,  after  a  while, 
learned  that  the  imaginary  kingdom  was  to  be  disenchanted  by 
having  its  soil  sprinkled  with  the  blood  of  one  hundred  innocent 
children!  In  default  of  a  sufficient  number  of  children,  men  and 
women  were  to  be  immolated,  but  in  a  few  days  they  would  all  rise 
again  and  become  possessed  of  the  riches  of  the  world.  The  pro- 
phet appears  to  have  lacked  the  courage  necessary  to  carry  out  his 
bloody  scheme;  but  he  delegated  power  to  an  accomplice,  named 
Joao  Ferreira,  who  assumed  the  title  of  "His  Holiness,"  put  a 
wreath  of  rushes  upon  his  head,  and  required  the  pi'oselytes  to  kiss 
his  toe,  on  pain  of  instant  death.  The  official  letter  to  Sr.  Fran- 
cisco Eego  Barras,  at  that  time  President  of  Pernambuco,  states 
that  "he  also  married  every  man  to  two  or  three  women  with 
superstitious  rites  in  accordance  with  his  otherwise  immoral  con- 
duct." After  other  deeds,  too  horrible  to  describe,  he  commenced 
the  slaughter  of  human  beings.  Each  parent  was  required  to 
bring  forward  one  or  two  of  his  children  to  be  offered.  In  vain 
did  the  prattling  babes  shriek  and  beg  that  they  might  not  bo 
murdered.  The  unnatural  parent  would  reply,  "Ko,  my  child; 
there  is  no  remedy,"  and  forcibly  ofPer  them.  In  the  course  of  two 
days  he  had  thus,  in  cold  blood,  slain  twenty-one  adults  and  twenty 
children,  when  a  brother  of  the  prophet,  becomiUj^  ealous  of  "His 
Holiness,"  thrust  him  through  and  assumed  his  power.  At  this 
juncture  some  one  ran  away,  and  apprized  the  civil  authorities  of 
the  dreadful  tragedy. 

Troops  were  called  out,  who  hastened  to  the  spot;  but  the  infatu- 


Extraordinary  Fanaticism.  521 

ated  Sebastianists  had  been  taught  not  to  fear  any  thing,  but  that 
should  an  attack  be  made  upon  them  it  would  be  the  signal  for  the 
restoration  of  the  kingdom,  the  resurrection  of  their  dead,  and  the 
destruction  of  their  enemies.  Wherefore,  on  seeing  the  troops  ap- 
proach they  rushed  upon  them,  uttering  cries  of  defiance,  attacking 
those  who  had  come  to  their  rescue,  and  actually  killing  five,  and 
wounding  others,  before  they  could  be  restrained.  Nor  did  they 
submit  until  twenty -nine  of  their  number,  including  three  women, 
had  actually  been  killed.  Women,  seeing  their  husbands  dying  at 
their  feet,  would  not  attempt  to  escape,  but  shouted,  "The  time  is 
come  !  Viva  !  viva  !  the  time  is  come !"  Of  those  that  survived  a 
few  escaped  into  the  woods,  the  rest  were  taken  prisoners.  It  was 
found  that  the  victims  of  this  horrid  delusion  had  not  even  buried 
the  bodies  of  their  murdex'ed  offspring  and  kinsmen,  so  confident 
were  they  of  their  immediate  restoration. 

Pernambuco  lies  on  the  great  eastern  shoulder  of  the  South 
American  continent,  where  it  pushes  farthest  into  the  ocean.  Its 
present  great  commercial  importance  is  largely  owing  to  this  for- 
tuitous position.  The  city  does  not  depend  for  its  large  exports 
on  the  fruitfulness  or  plenty  of  the  region  immediately  sur- 
rounding it. 

This  region  is  the  sertao,  {"  the  wilderness,  or  desert,") — a  term 
applied  to  much  of  the  great  promontorj^  on  which  the  province  lies. 
It  is  a  continued  plain,  of  but  little  elevation  above  the  sea,  of  a 
surface  undulating  to  a  small  degree,  occupied  by  a  crisp,  thin  herbage 
on  a  baked  ferrugineous  clay,  or  patched  over  Avith  dwarfed  forests, 
is  irregularly  supplied  with  rain,  and  is  very  sparsely  populated. 

Pernambuco  sends  out  annually  four  millions  of  dollars  of  exports 
past  the  angry  little  fort  at  the  end  of  the  Recife.  A  half-million 
reaches  the  United  States.  But  its  abundant  beef  and  hides  are 
gathered  from  the  fat  but  untamed  herds. that  riot  among  the  sedgy 
meadows  of  the  far-off  San  Francisco ;  while  a  portion  of  the  cotton 
and  sugar  are  harvested  three  hundred  miles  away,  around  the 
Villa  das  Flores  and  among  the  foot-hills  of  Santa  Barbaretta, — the 
first  mountain-chain  that  arrests  the  trade-wind  as  it  sweeps  west- 
ward, laden  with  rain,  which  pours  down  the  little  valleys  that 
furrow  the  serra  and  fill  the  region  below  with  plenty. 

There  are  also  an  immense  number  of  sugar-plantations  on  the 


522  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

proposed  railway  from  Pernanibuco  to  Joazeiro.  From  the  Recife 
to  the  river  Una; — a  distance  of.  seventy-five  miles — there  are  no 
less  than  three  hundred  sugar-estates  on  the  sections  of  the  railway 
already  under  contract. 

The  distant  population  of  this  province  is  as  untamed  as  the 
wilderness  in  which  it  exists.  Law  is  worn  very  loosely.  Society 
is  patriarchal  rather  than  civil.  The  proprietor  of  a  sugar  or  cattle 
estate  is,  practically,  an  absolute  lord.  The  community  that  lives 
in  the  shadow  of  so  great  a  man  is  his  feudal  retinue;  and,  by  the 
conspiracy  of  a  few  such  men,  who  are  thus  able  to  bring  scores  of 
lieges  and  partisans  into  the  field,  the  quiet  of  the  province  was 
formerly  more  than  once  disturbed  b}^  revolts,  which  gave  the 
Government  much  trouble. 

Revenue,  accordingly,  can  only  be  collected  by  import  and  ex- 
port duties.  Taxation  is  impossible,  because  there  is  no  sj'stem 
of  tax-gathering  vigorous  enough  to  collect  it.  A  few  years  ago 
an  excise  Avas  put  on  the  herds  of  cattle,  and  the  exciseman  went 
into  the  sertiio  for  the  Emperor's  money.  He  was  caught,  strij^ped, 
and  imprisoned  in  the  ti'unk  of  a  dead  bullock,  with  his  head  stick- 
ing out.  "If  the  Empei'or  wants  beef,"  the  sertanejos  said,  "let 
his  exciseman  take  it  along." 

The  provincial  of  Pernambuco,  as  he  enters  the  city  from  the 
sertao  to  do  his  semi-annual  marketing,  is  worthy  of  such  an  ex- 
ploit, and  is  a  notable.  The  highway  to  the  city  lies  through 
Cachinga, — a  neat  little  hamlet  two  or  three  leagues  from  the 
Recife.  The  village  is  hidden  from  the  observer  as  he  approaches 
by  a  long  valley  of  orange  and  banana  trees.  This  is  the  sertanejo's 
last  night's  halt  before  getting  to  market.  He  has  already  ridden 
for  twelve  days,  perched  upon  a  couple  of  oblong  cotton-bags 
strapped  parallel  to  his  horse's  sides,  followed  by  his  train  of  a 
dozen  horses  or  mules,  loaded,  in  the  same  way,  with  cotton  or 
sugar.  A  monkey,  with  a  clog  tied  to  his  waist,  surmounts  one  in 
place  of  tiie  driver;  pai'rot  and  his  wife  another;  and  a  large  brass- 
throated  macaw  with  a  stiff  blue  coat  of  feathers  another.  A  raw 
hide  protects  his  wares  from  the  rain.  Night  after  night  he  has 
slept  on  the  earth,  or  has  been  suspended  in  his  inseparable  ham- 
mock, slung  between  two  trees,  with  only  the  generous,  starry  sky 
for  a  coverino;. 


The  Sertanejos'  Cavalcade. 


523 


Cachingii,  quiet  and  silent  by  day,  is  boisterous  by  night ;  for, 
(iiiring  its  watches,  the  sertanejos  accumulate  about  the  vendas  by 
liundrcds.  The  first  streaking  of  the  morning  witnesses  a  miscel- 
laneous distribution,  over  the  earth,  of  men,  jaded  horses,  mules, 
monkej^s,  parroquetas,  and  sugar  and  cotton  bags.  The  caravan 
is  at  once  put  in  motion.  Each  individual  sertancjo  stirs  his 
beasts,  packs  their  loads,  goes  behind  the  riding-horse,  seizes  hold 
of  the  tail,  puts  a  foot  on  the  hock-joint,  and  leaps  up  on  the  back 


SERTANEJOS. 


aa  if  ascending  a  flight  of  stairs.  This  is  a  summons  to  every  horse 
of  his  troop — already  educated  to  it — to  take  his  place  in  the  train. 
In  an  instant  the  motley  cavalcade  is  rolling  down  the  valley  of 
the  Capibaribe  before  the  sun  'has  absorbed  the  dew-drops,  which 
are  like  pendent  jewelry  on  the  rank  leaves  of  the  thick  orchards 
that  overhang  the  road.  The  sertanejo  passes  on,  only  pausing  to 
uncover  before  the  patron  saint  of  all  cavaliers,  (who  is  shut  up  in 
a  wooden  case  at  the  gateway  of  the  bridge  of  San  Antonio,)  and 
he  finally  halts  with  his  various  merchandise,  living  and  dead,  in 
the  street  Trapixe. 

The  individuality  of  the  sertanejo  is  now  manifest.     On  his  head 
he  w^ars  a  pindova  hat,  after  the  pattern  of  a  sugar-loaf,  attem- 


524  Brazil  and  the  Braziliaxs. 

pered  by  expevience  to  every  condition  of  weather.  Under  it  is  an 
affluent  "shock"  of  hair,  in  the  midst  of  which,  in  a  doubtful  state 
of  Hght  and  eclipse,  is  a  thin,  bronze  face,  of  Portuguese  configura- 
tion, with  eyes  significant  of  divided  curiosity  and  suspicion.  He 
is  attired  in  a  cotton  shirt  and  unmentionables,  the  one  scant  to  the 
elbows  and  unbuttoned  at  the  throat,  leaving  his  tanned  bosom 
bare,  and  the  other  rolled  up  to  the  knees.  His  feet  are  all  un- 
learned in  such  commercial  literature  as  the  statistics  of  boots 
and  shoes. 

Early  morning  is  the  busy  hour  of  Pernambuco.  The  sugar- 
streets  ar^  thronged  with  a  wonderful  miscellan}^  of  horses,  mules, 
asses,  and  sugar-bags;  sugai'-merchants  delicatelj-  holding  samples- 
cotton-bales,  goats  with  their  flxmilies  on  a  morning  j^romenade; 
and  qnitandeiras  eloquently  passing  panegyrics  on  cakes,  comfits, 
and  oi'anges.  And  still  the  tide  of  loaded  horses  and  asses  pours 
into  the  Trapixe.  The  horses  lie  down  to  rest,  and  the  sertanejo, 
fatigued  with  the  riot  of  the  night,  and  anticipating  the  noontide 
siesta,  pillows- himself  to  slumber  on  the  neck  of  his  steed.  A 
wood-dealer,  with  twin-bundles  of  fagots  strapped  on  the  side 
of  his  donkey,  attempts  to  force  a  way.  He  is  followed  by  a 
poultry-dealer  mounted  on  an  ass,  with  an  immense  hamper  of 
fowls,  advertised  by  a  dozen  chicken-necks  thrust  at  full  length 
through  the  lattices.  Macaws  and  pai'rots  make  the  tenor  of  the 
busy  occasion;  while  the  ambitious  trumpets  of  a  half-dozen 
donkeys  lend  their  bass  semitones.  In  the  midst  of  this  Babel  of 
sounds,  the  sabia — sweetest  of  the  Southern  feathered  tribes  of 
song  and  peer  of  the  Northern  thrush  and  the  mocking-bird — 
pours  out  his  heart}^  mellow  praises  from  a  lady's  window  by  the 
bide  of  a  whitewashed  church. 

No  market-scene  can  anj'where  be  more  various,  checkered,  and 
interesting  than  at  Pernambuco,  in  the  busy  sugar-season.  Before 
meridian,  the  actors  have  changed,  and  others  have  taken  their 
places.  The  black  ganhadores,  naked  to  the  waist,  with  sugar-bags 
on  their  heads,  hurry  from  the  sugar-warehouses  to  the  lighters, 
at  full  trot,  in  exact  pace  to  their  own  boisterous  music. 

Nearly  the  whole  of  Brazil  is  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  sugar; 
but  it  is  on  the  sea-coast  from  Campos  to  the  sixth  degi'ce  of  south 
latitude  that  it  is  produced  in  the  greatest  abundance.     The  export 


The  Jangal>a  or  Catamaran.  525 

of  sugar  from  Pernambuco  is  annually  increasing,  and  its  produc- 
tion is  flourishing  under  the  improved  machinery  introduced  by 
the  brothers  De  Mornay.  In  1821  this  province  produced  20,000,000 
pounds;  in  1853  the  total  was  140,000,000  pounds.  The  whole 
number  of  pounds  exported  from  Brazil  in  1855  was  254,765,504, 
of  which  we  purchased  to  the  amount  of  more  than  a  million 
of  dollars. 

The  ordinary  price  at  Pernambuco  is  about  three  cents  per  pound 
for  brown  and  five  cents  for  pure  white  sugar.  The  clayed  or  white 
sugars  are  exported  to  Sweden  and  the  United  States:  much  of  the 
brown  is  sent  to  the  Mediterranean :  the  consignments  to  England 
are  generally  put  up  for  "Covves  and  a  market." 

Pernambuco  also  exported,  in  1866,  32,159,040  pounds  of  cotton 
to  Liverpool.  This  cotton  is  of  a  good  quality,  and  brings  a  higher 
price  than  the  generality  of  that  expoi'ted  from  the  United  States. 
To  the  Quakers  of  England  this  Brazilian  article  has  the  preference, 
because  it  is  mostly,  according  to  Friends  Candler  and  Burgess, 
raised  by  the  free  half-breeds  of  the  interior;  and  I  believe  that 
there  is  very  little  of  it  which  has  to  do  with  slave-labor.  Great 
Britain  imported  from  Brazil,  in  1856,  21,830,000  pounds  of  cotton; 
but,  as  we  have  seen,  Pernambuco  alone  in  1866  exported  near- 
ly fifty  per  cent  more.  In  1854  the  export  of  cotton  from 
Pernambuco  was  not  quite  three  million  pounds.  The  fibre  is 
infeiMor  only  to  that  of  sea  island. 

But  the  Brazilian  Mail-steamer  awaits  us.  We  bid  farewell  to 
our  friends,  and  soon  pass  on  one  side  the  little  fort  at  the  end 
of  the  reef,  and  on  the  other  the  rusty  cannons  of  old  Fort  do  Brum, 
and  are  at  once  on  the  ocean.  At  the  same  time  a  hundred  jangadas, 
or  catamarans,  sail}'  out  for  the  fishing-grounds  at  some  indefinite 
distance  from  land, — ten,  fifteen,  twenty,  or  forty  miles.  These 
curious  crafts  are  each  composed  of  four  logs  of  cork-palm,  eight 
inches  in  diameter,  pinned  together,  with  a  plank  thrust  down 
between  them  for  keel  and  rudder,  and  a  broad,  brown  lateen 
Bail,  made  from  fibrils,  affixed  to  a  rude  mast.  The  catamaran 
flies  like  the  wind,  and  the  clipper — swift  courser  of  the  sea — 
cannot  outstrip  it.  The  fisherman,  with  breeches  rolled  up  to  his 
thigh,  (for  every  wave  submerges  his  palm-logs,)  sits  securely 
on  a  pegged    stool :    occasionally  he    dips  up  the  brine  with  a 


526  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

calabash  and  dashes  it  over  his  sail.  Have  no  fear  for  this  frail 
ship-carpentry.  The  catamaran  will  re-enter  the  harbor  to-mor- 
row morning,  or,  at  furthest,  the  next  day  after,  laden  with  a 
cargo  of  most  extraordinary  fish, — pink-eyed,  ox-eyed,  and  four- 
eyed,  round-shouldered,  Eoman-nosed,  scaly  and  unsealed;  and 
among  them  are  some  wearing  a  quantity  of  tails,  hairy  and 
tufted,  like  a  buffalo-bull's.  Only  once,  the  story  goes,  a  cata- 
maran was  run  down  at  night:  the  pickcd-up  owner  was  carried 
to  Baltimore,  to  return  at  length  and  find  his  inconsolable  widow 
solaced  by  a  new  marriage,  and  some  young  birds  in  the  family 
nest  not  yet  old  enough  to  fly. 

Dr.  Kidder  once  performed  a  voyage  in  a  jangada  to  the  beautiful 
island  of  Itamaraca,  and  his  experience  shows  that  they  are  breezy, 
watery,  and  safe. 

A  minute  after  passing  Fortaleza  de  Brum,  a  last  sight  is  taken 
of  a  couple  of  Hollandish-looking  windmills;  and,  as  we  glide 
away  we  have  a  glimpse  of  Cocoanut  Island,  lifting  up  its  forest 
of  green  feathers  against  the  clear  sunset-sky,  and  finally  nothing 
remains  but  the  rocky  pyramid  of  Olinda,  crowned  with  a  cross- 
bearing  church,  and,  bej'ond,  the  low  shores  that  stretch  away 
toward  Parahiba  do  Noi'te. 

There  is  an  utter  dissimilarity  in  the  geological  position  of  the 
provincial  capitals  of  Northern  Brazil.  But  there  is  a  striking 
resemblance  in  the  heavy  stone-masonry  of  the  houses,  in  the  tones 
of  the  families  of  bells  that  inhabit  ever}'-  church-turret,  in  the 
profound  sand  that  fills  the  streets,  and  in  the  twinkle  of  the 
eyes  and  the  thin  sallow  faces  of  the  male  inhabitants. 

The  little  island  of  Itamaraca,  which,  under  the  old  Dutch  Go- 
vernment, was  the  most  spirited  and  afiluent  along  the  Avhole  coast, 
has  now  been  almost  lost  sight  of  in  geography,  and  has  been  de- 
graded from  a  first  commercial  consequence  into  a  lean  and  beg- 
gared colony  of  fishermen  and  fruit-raisers.  Parahiba,  the  capital 
of  Parahiba  do  Norte,  with  a  population  of  ten  thousand,  is  situated 
upon  the  Parahiba  Piver,  some  ten  miles  from  the  sea.  The  greenery 
of  both  shores  overhangs  the  narrow  river  so  closely  that  it  seems 
to  be  ajiproached  through  a  cavern  of  verdure.  Eed  crabs  doze 
on  the  muddy  beaches,  and  countless  tribes  of  waders  industriously 
pick  uf>  a  living  at  ever}'  retreat  of  the  tide.     At  the  end  of  this 


Rio  Grande  do  Norte  and  Ceara. 


527 


arched  a^venue  of  trees,  and  on  the  hill-side  of  a  narrow  valle}', 
whitewashed  Parahiba  appears,  and,  as  our  steamer  draws  neai', 
the  bells  of  a  cathedral  that  rises  above  it  summon  the  priests  to 
perform  the  solemn  offices  for  the  dead. 

Natal,  or  Eio  Grande  do  Norte,  is,  on  the  other  hand,  built  on  low 
lands  near  the  sea.  The  steamer  does  not  enter  it,  but  lies  off  at 
an  anchorage  two  or  three  miles  from  the  shore.  Passengers,  with 
their  luggage,  are  delivered,  for  want  of  boats,  on  board  of  a 
vivacious  raft  of  palm-logs  that  goes  hobbling  round  at  the  mercy 
of  the  sea.  Each  wave  sweeps  its  whole  length  and  breadth.  JJn 
route  to  his  post  is  a  military  commandant,  just  assorted  and  dis- 


charged from  the  ruder  human  clay  of  the  steamer,  and  he  stands 
erect  on  the  float,  brilliant  in  attire  and  trappings,  and  made  more 
magnificent  by  his  top-boots,  which,  at  every  plunge,  fill  up  with 
water  from  the  briny  deep. 

Ceani  can  hai'dly  be  said  to  have  a  harbor:  it  is  only  a  road- 
stead. This  city  is  on  ground  comparatively  level,  and  but  few 
feet  higher  than  the  ocean.  The  bluff,  tall  mountains  of  Ibiapaba, 
four  or  five  leagues  distant,  picturesque  as  the  shores  of  the  Hudson, 
and  visible  froJi  the  sea  for  a  hundred  miles,  (though  not  marked 


528  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

on  the  maps,)  form  a  beautiful  background.  Their  sides  are  fretted 
with  coffee-plantations,  and,  under  the  glass,  their  profile  is  ser- 
rated with  feathery  palm-woods.  Here  the  style  of  landing  is 
very  different  from  that  at  Natal.  A  boat  transports  the  pas- 
sengers to  the  verge  of  the  surf  that  always  breaks  on  the  shore. 
A  municipal  chair,  (padiola,')  large  enough  for  the  accommodation 
of  a  couple  of  beef-fed  aldermen,  is  borne  on  the  backs  of  four 
stout  slaves,  until  the  water  reaches  their  chins,  and  the  surf,  as 
they  advance,  passes  over  and  around  them.  In  the  swift  drift  of 
water  that  precedes  the  breakers,  the  chair  receives  the  precious 
freight  of  human  life  and  treasure,  and  is  carried  at  once,  through 
the  surf,  to  the  shore. 

Aracati,  in  the  province  of  Ceara,  and  Parnahiba,  in  that  of 
Piauhy,  are  principally  cattle-marts.  There  is  an  equally  striking 
difference  in  the  productions  of  the  different  provinces.  Pernam- 
buco  and  Aracati  are  sugar-dealers;  Parahiba  exports  cotton  princi- 
pally. Ceara  mingles  sugar  and  coffee,  and  is  eminently  rejmt- 
able  for  its  beef  Parahiba  and  Piauh}^  have  a  ruder  civilization, 
and  accumuhite  hides,  tallow,  and  beef,  and  gather  rice  on  the  low 
plains  along  the  rivers.  ^Maranham,  in  addition  to  its  large 
exports  of  cotton,  rice,  and  salt,  is  a  druggist,  collecting  many 
species  of  invigorating  roots,  barks,  and  balsams  in  its  woods. 
Para  is  gratefully  known  to  the  world  for  its  cacao  and  caoutchouc. 

There  is  a  difference,  too,  in  the  appearance  of  the  coasts.  After 
leaving  Olinda,  no  highlands  are  seen,  except  the  mountains  behind 
Ceara,  until  the  bluff  sand-hill  of  San  Marcos  is  turned  on  entering 
Maranham.  After  leaving  Pai-ahiba  do  Norte,  the  eye  tires  of  the 
dreary  shores  and  hillocks  of  white  sand,  herbless  and  treeless, 
save  here  and  there  a  riband  of  green  cocoanuts  in  the  little 
valleys,  or  columnar  cacti  that  from  time  to  time  shoot  up  out 
of  the  unrelieved  desert  as  if  to  keep  note  of  its  utter  desola- 
tion. Though,  as  has  been  observed,  there  is  no  Sahara  in 
Brazil,  there  has  often  been  much  suffering  from  drought  in 
this  portion  of  the  Empire,  As  seen  from  the  deck,  glistening 
sand  frequently  stretches  away  beyond  the  reach  of  sight.  Such 
is  the  character  of  the  country  for  hundreds  of  miles.  This 
is  slowly  modified  as  the  voyage  extends  farther  north.  The  white 
sand-drifts  are,  at  long  intervals,  striped  with  vegetation ;  then  it 


Coast-Scenes. 


529 


becomes  more  interspersed,  until  at  Maranliam  the  wliole  shore  is 
clothed  with  the  beautj^,  brilliancy,  and  luxuriance  of  tropical 
growth. 

The  sea-built  masonry  of  the  reef  of  Pernambuco  appears  at 
frequent  intervals  along  the  coast,  at  distances  varying  from  one 


THE    CAC/CO. 


hundred  to  one  thousand  yards  from  shore.  At  Cearji  alono  it 
seems  to  pass  under  the  land,  through  the  sandy  point  of  Mucoripe. 
The  ocean,  with  its  low,  hoarse  voice  of  habitual  sorrow,  often 
breaks  over  it. 

Petitinga — a  triangle  of  green  in  the  midst  of  a  wide  desolation 
of  sand-hillocks — is  famous  for  the  tortoise-shell  (second  only  to 
that  of  the   South  Sea)    gathered  among   these   disrupted  rocks. 

U 


530  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

But  the  morality  of  the  hamlet  is  like  that  of  the  Bedouins.  Legiti- 
mate trade  is  sometimes  suspended  to  plunder  a  flour-vessel  which 
has  been  driven  ashore  by  a  storm  and  the  currents.  Then  the 
whole  population  turn  salvors,  and  salvage  covers  the  cargo. 

The  point  of  the  coast  about  Cape  S.  Eoque  is  dangerous  to 
vessels  making  their  way  close  to  the  shore,  in  consequence  of 
sunken  reefs  and  the  strong  current,  at  the  rate  of  three  or  four 
miles  an  hour,  that,  having  ah-eady  swept  across  the  ocean  from 
the  African  coast,  impinges  on  Brazil  not  far  from  Bahia,  and  is  then 
deflected  northwardly  till  it  passes  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon,  after 
"which  it  continues  until  it  becomes  known  to  us  as  the  Gulf  Stream. 
This  is  a  serious  obstacle  to  attempting  a  landing  north  of  Cape 
S.  Eoque,  because  then,  with  an  adversity  both  of  wind  and  cur- 
rent, it  is  difiicult  to  turn  the  cape  without  standing  far  out  to  sea. 
Before  the  introduction  of  steamers,  news  from  Northern  Brazil  was 
sometimes  received  at  Eio  de  Janeiro  via  Europe.  Mr.  Southey 
mentions  the  case  of  a  vessel  sent  eastward  from  Maranham  in 
1656,  having  troops  on  board  for  some  special  emergency,  which, 
after  having  been  out  fifty  days, — a  time  long  enough  to  exhaust  her 
provisions, — found  it  necessary  to  put  back,  and  in  twelve  hours 
reached  the  port  she  had  left. 

Eiofht  desrrees  of  latitude  and  more  than  fifteen  hundred  miles  of 
coast  are  comprehended  between  Pernambuco  and  Para  on  the 
Amazon.  The  climate  of  all  is  much  alike,  and  without  any 
appreciable  differences  on  account  of  seasons.  The  range  of  the 
thermometer  in  the  shade  is  from  82°  to  90°,  scarcely  ever  indi- 
cating a  change  of  more  than  five  degrees.  So  equable,  indeed,  is 
the  temperature  of  the  northern  coast,  that  one  cannot  but  be 
astonished  at  Avitnessing  it  advance  slowly,  during  six  months  of 
the  year,  from  82°  to  the  maximum,  then,  turning  and  tracing  its 
way  back,  to  the  minimum  with  equal  decorum.  But  the  quan- 
tity and  distribution  of  rain  are  very  unequal,  and  its  seasons 
vary  at  diff'erent  points  along  the  coast.  At  Pernambuco  the  rain 
continues  about  three  months  only,  and  falls  in  inconsiderable 
quantities,  while  at  Para,  by  exact  observation,  less  than  sixty 
days  of  the  year  are  without  rain.  But  the  reader  must  not  ima- 
gine a  continuous  state  of  overhanging  clouds:  the  sun  is  seen  as 
often  as  at  New  York.     The  rainy  season  at  Pernambuco  is  nearly 


The  Eainy  Season, 


531 


ended  when  that  at  Maranham  begins.  At  this  latter  point  the 
tropical  rain,  though  less  continuous  than  at  Para,  is  established 
in  full  vigor.  Light  occasional  showers  inaugurate  its  approach. 
Every  day  invigorates  it,  till,  at  the  height  of  the  season,  in  a 
bright  sky,  black  clouds  rush  up  suddenly  from  every  point  of 
the  horizon  to  the  zenith,  bring  their  stores  together  in  an  angry 
shock,  accompanied  by  violent  lightning  and  thunder,  and  pour 
them  down  in  a  deluge  on  the  earth.  At  this  time,  although 
the  rain  sometimes  con- 
tinues incessantly  dur- 
ing the  day,  there  is  a 
usual  periodicity  of  the 
showorS;  at  ten  o'clock 
in  the  morning  and 
three  in  the  afternoon, 
— lasting  a  couple  of 
hours,  and  with  bright 
skies  between.  So  great 
is  their  precision  that 
all  the  appointments 
of  the  day  are  made 
with  reference  to  these 
short  times  of  tenij)est. 
The  rainy  season  of 
Maranham  continues 
about  six  months,  and 
during  this  time  no  less 
than  two  hundred  and 
thirt}'  inches  of  rain 
falls!  So  says  a  British 
resident.  Whatauthor- 
it}'  he  has  for  his  data 
1  know  not.  The  re- 
mainder of  the  year  is  rainless.  Still,  vegetation  does  not  droop. 
Plants  have  in  themselves  the  power  of  adaptation  to  great  dif- 
ferences of  seasons,  and  borrow  and  absorb  the  transparent  moisture 
which  the  trade-wind  brings  from  the  sea,  thus  maintaining  their 
usual  rankness  of  growth. 


THE     SAPUCAYA    NUT. 


532  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

And  now,  turning  from  the  weather  to  something  more  stable, 
we  observe  that  the  city  of  San  Luiz  de  Maranham  ranks  as  the 
fourth  in  the  Empire,  and  is  the  capital  of  the  rich  and  important 
province  of  the  same  name.  The  estuary  upon  which  it  stands 
was  discovex'ed  by  Pinzon  in  1500.  Though  Maranham  was  made  a 
captaincy  as  early  as  1530,  the  French,  in  1612,  were  the  first  to 
form  a  permanent  settlement,  and,  in  compliment  to  the  patron 
saint  and  the  royal  family  of  France,  named  the  town  St.  Louis  and 
the  bay  St.  Mary. 

The  territory  of  the  province  is  rather  uneven  in  its  surface, 
although  it  has  not  a  single  range  of  mountains.  It  is  watered  by 
a  large  number  of  rivers,  both  great  and  small.  It  remains  to  a 
great  extent  covered  with  forests,  in  which  valuable  woods  and 
precious  drugs  are  abundant.  The  soil  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  the 
cultivation  of  rice,  which  it  produces  in  vast  quantities.  Cotton 
thrives  much  more  than  the  sugarcane.  The  indigenous  fruits  are 
numerous  and  rich,  and  in  the  distant  interior  are  many  edible 
nuts,  amono;  which  none  is  more  curious  than  the  three-cornered 
Brazil-nut  {Bertholetia  excclsa)  and  the  sapucaj^a,  {Lecythis  oJlaria.) 
The  latter  is  a  capsule  or  nut  as  large  as  an  infant's  bead,  filled  Avith 
small,  oil}",  eatable  grains.  With  this  capsule  pretty  vases  and 
sugar-bowls  are  often  made.  The  pineapples  and  bananas,  of 
several  species,  deserve  mention  for  especial  excellence.  Mineral 
riches  have  not  been  withheld  from  this  portion  of  the  globe.  Fine 
strata  of  old  red  sandstone  furnish  an  excellent  and  common 
material  for  building;  while  iron  and  lead  ores  and  antimony  have 
been  discovered,  although  they  have  not  j'Ct  been  turned  to  public 
advantage.  Fish  abound  in  the  waters  of  the  province;  and  herds 
of  sheep,  cattle,  and  horses  multiply  rapidly  on  the  plantations  of 
the  interior. 

San  Luiz  de  Maranham  is  believed  to  be  better  built,  as  a  Avhole, 
than  any  other  city  of  Brazil.  It  exhibits  a  general  neatness  and 
an  air  of  enterprise  which  rarely  appears  in  the  other  towns  of  the 
Empire.  There  are,  moreover,  within  its  bounds  but  few  huts 
and  indifferent  houses.  None  of  the  churches  appear  unusually 
large  or  sumptuous,  but  many  of  the  private  dwellings  are  of  a 
superior  order.  The  style  of  construction  is  at  once  elegant  and 
durable.     The  walls  are  massive,  being  composed  of  stone  broken 


The  City  of  San  Luiz  de  Maranham. 


533 


fine  and  laid  in  cement.  Although  the  town  does  not  occupy  a 
large  extent  of  ground,  the  surface  it  covers  is  very  unequal. 
Its  site  extends  over  two  hills,  and,  consequently,  a  valley.  The 
rise  and  descent  in  the  streets  are 
in  many  places  very  abrupt.  Few 
carriages  are  in  use,  and,  in  accord- 
ance with  this  circumstance,  there  is 
only  one  good  carriage-road  in  the 
entire  vicinity.  That  road  leads  a 
short  distance  out  of  town.  The 
cadeira  is  but  little  known  here  as  a 
means  of  conveyance.  The  rede,  or 
hammock,  is  generall}"  used  as  a  means 
of  easy  locomotion.  It  is  very  com- 
mon, both  in  Maranham  and  Para, 
to  see  ladies  in  this  manner  taking 
their  passeio,  or  promenade.  Gentle- 
men do  not  often  make  their  ap- 
pearance   in    public    in    this    stjde, 

although  it   is   generally  conceded    that   they  are   quite   fond  of 
swinging  in  their  hammocks  at  home. 

Hon.  John  U.  Petit,  who  resided  for  a  number  of  3'ears  at  Ma- 
ranham, has  kindly  furnished  me  a  few  of  his  full  notes;  and  his 
descriptions  of  Maranham  are  so  fresh,  graphic,  and  full  of  life  that 
I  give  them  entire: — 

"  The  lateral  streets,  crossing  the  two  principal  thoroughfares,  descend  rapidly 
to  the  estuaries  on  each  side.  The  heavy  rains  dash  their  torrents  along  down  their 
pavements  and  cleanse  the  whole  city.  Filth  is  thus  made  impossible.  Qiiebra- 
cosla  or  Breakback  Street  deserves  its  name,  for  it  drops  down  abruptly  like  a 
declivity. 

"  My  first  landing  was  made  at  evening,  and  at  the  end  of  the  outpouring  of  the 
diurnal  rains.  Already  the  sun  was  out,  and  the  clouds  were  half  dispersed  from 
the  sky,  except  here  and  there  a  few  remaining  fugitives,  fantastically  arranged, 
now  in  crags  and  mountain-steeps,  now  in  distant  harvest-landscapes,  now  in  long, 
blue  lakes,  with  sloping  shores  of  green  and  orange. 

"  But  the  prevailing  and  superabundant  humidity  at  this  season,  though  unfelt 
and  obviously  unseen,  is  yet  seen  in  its  effects.  Every  thing  that  is  touched  is 
clammy.  The  wet  season  is  the  green  age  of  mould.  And  yet  it  is  not  so  much  wet 
as  musty.  Mould  grows  on  every  thing  that  gives  it  a  place  for  rest.  A  grease- 
spot  on  a  coat,  or  a  soiled  coat-collar,  becomes  verdant  after  a  night's  exposure. 
Albino  wakes  you  to  take  a  cup  of  coiFee,  and  you  sip  the  liquid  swinging  in  your 
hammock,  just  as  the  morning  is  peeping,  and  the  velvet-breasted  wren  is  singing 


534  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

from  the  tall  crown  of  a  bread -fi-uit-tree  or  early  humming-birds  are  sucking  nectar 
from  the  very  throats  of  the  red  pomegranate-flower.  Albino  then  improvises  a 
lustre  on  your  boots.  But  you  have  hardly  sunk  down  in  your  hammock  and 
waked  up  again,  when — presto — your  boots  are  grown  over  with  a  green  vegetable 
nap,  an  antiquity-looking  mildew.  The  old  black,  revered,  neat's-leather  trunk, 
fellow-visitor  of  many  States,  and  the  acquaintance  of  many  custom-house  ex- 
plorers,— now  standing  modestly  back  by  the  wall  with  its  lid  uplifted,  as  though 
it  wished  everybody  to  look  in  and  see  its  very  heart, — under  the  novel  influence,  is 
first  white,  then  brown,  then  yellowish,  and,  at  last,  green  in  an  apparent  old  age. 
But,  if  this  attract  remark,  it  is  only  for  a  moment;  for  the  mould  perishes  at  the 
first  hot  breath  of  old  Sol, — suddenly  as  the  ephemera  that  lives  a  whole  life  and 
dies  in  crossing  a  sunbeam. 

"Maranham,  in  its  principal  streets,  is  built  of  compacted  stone-masonry. 
Houses  are  usually  of  two,  three,  or  four  stories,  with  walls  of  two  and  a  half 
or  three  feet  in  thickness,  the  better  to  resist  attacks  of  external  heat.  Maran- 
ham is  nearly  a  finished  city ;  but  a  house  was  erected,  not  long  since,  in  the 
Street  St.  John.  A  train  of  asses  and  mules  brought  the  red,  ferrugineous  sand- 
stone— just  landed  from  Bom-Fim — up  the  Palace  Square  in  panniers, — a  reluctant 
slave  compelling  them  from  behind.  The  lime  was  carried  in  baskets,  on  the  heads 
of  slaves,  from  the  opposite  sea-shore ;  while,  in  order  to  mix  the  mortiir,  women 
marched  up,  loaded  with  water-jars,  from  the  abundant  fountain  behind  Prai.'^ 
Cuju. 

"The  population  is  affluent.  The  residents  of  the  city  are  the  proprietors  of  the 
plantations  and  of  the  numerous  slaves  dwelling  on  the  fazendas  of  the  mainland. 
Factors  supervise  them  there,  and  the  annual  rents  are  paid  without  giving  the 
masters  any  trouble  in  going  after  them,  and  the  money  is  soon  wasted  in  the 
abundance — and,  sometimes,  the  dissipation — of  the  city. 

"With  such  ample  means,  the  children  of  its  burghers  are  very  well  educated  in 
the  more  brilliant  and  showy  and  less  practical  attainments  of  knowledge, — some- 
times at  home,  less  often  abi'oad.  Ladies  mcire  frequently  than  gentlemen  are  met 
with  who  have  learned  the  arts  of  pleasing  and  conquest  at  Lisbon,  Madrid,  and 
Paris.     This  superior  class  constitutes  a  social  realm  where  Roger  de  Coverley 

might  live  happy. 

*  ********* 

"Before  midnight,  the  streets  are  quiet  as  churchyards,  and  it  is  only  the  late 
walker  who  is  met  by  the  patrol  with  a  musket  on  his  shoulder  and  a  bayonet  at  the 
end  of  it,  and  required  to  give  the  countersign  ;  and,  answering,  it  is  likely,  with  a 
very  difficult  utterance,  Amigo,  which  means  that  he  is  a  particular  friend  of  the 
Emperor's,  is  then  directed  to  move  on. 

"Below  the  class  of  opulent  citizens,  who  dwell  in  large  stone  houses  having 
balconies  at  all  their  windows  and  verandas  above,  that  shut  out  the  invasion  of 
the  sun,  first  in  rank  is  the  large  class  of  shopkeepers  and  artisans.  For  these, 
several  schools  exist.  The  city,  too,  abounds  in  charities.  It  has  its  home  of 
orphans,  its  house  of  foundlings,  a  house  of  lepers,  hospitals  for  the  sick,  and 
misericordias,  with  open  doors,  embracing  all  the  children  of  distress. 

"  The  Portuguese  make  an  important  element  of  the  population  in  all  the  cities. 
They  are  spirited,  ambitious,  self-reliant,  and  money-making.  They  do  not  create 
wealth,  but  acquire  it.  The  Brazileiro  looks  on  them  with  habitual  aversion.  This 
had  its  origin  in  the  time  of  the  colonial  dependence  on  Portugal,  when  home- 
bred courtiers  of  the  monarch  crowded  all  the  walks  of  ambition  in  Church  and 


"Old  Uncle  Ned"  in  Maranham.  535 

Stato,  to  the  exclusion  of  the  natives  of  the  colony.  The  Government  then  was 
terribly  unjust  and  oppressive.  The  Portuguese  appointees  were  generally  in 
circumstances  of  decayed  fortune,  which  they  went  abroad  to  repair ;  aud  the  his- 
tory of  the  capilanias  is  only  a  repetition  of  the  old  story  of  the  outrages  and  rapa- 
city of  the  Roman  proconsuls.  To  this  deep  cause  of  hatred  another  is  added,  in 
the  steady  iiow  of  Portuguese  colonization  into  the  Empire,  monopolizing,  by  vigor 
and  ingenuity,  the  shopkeeping  and  the  more  skilful  mechanical  employments,  in 
which  a  Brazilian  rarely  appears.  Most  of  them  come  as  adventurers  and  obtain 
competence,  many  of  them  affluence. 

"A  vessel  touches  in  Brazil,  loaded  with  Portuguese  lads  bent  on  making  for- 
tunes. Each  has  a  large  chest,  capable  of  holding  a  whole  family,  At  a  custom- 
house inspection,  two  of  the  boys  lift  up  the  huge  lid.  In  the  immense  cavei'n  to 
which  it  opens  are  seen  dispersed  a  shirt,  'a  pair  of  socks,'  needles  and  thread, 
and,  in  addition,  the  adventurer's  stock  in  trade, — two  or  three  strings  of  Spanish 
onions.  In  ten  or  twelve  years  the  boy  has  become  a  man,  and  embarks  his  chest 
again  to  return  to  Portugal.  But  now  he  has  it  strapped  with  ropes  to  keep  down 
the  cover.  Small  boxes  and  carpet-bags  cluster  around  it,  as  if  they  were  the 
old  chest's  children ;  and  the  old  chest,  having  no  wings,  but  feeling  maternal, 
hovers  over  tliem  with  its  shadow.  And,  before  embarking,  the  indefatigable 
Portuguese  has  paid  duty  on  a  considerable  amount  of  specie.  Such  is  the 
facetious  and  somewhat  overdrawn  picture  by  which  the  Brazileiros,  the  lineal 
descendants  of  a  common  ancestry,  solace  themselves  over  their  deadly  enemies 
the  Portuguese. 

"The  class  of  Brazilians  proper — the  offspring  of  the  old  Portuguese  emigrant, 
— embracing  the  civil  functionary,  the  army  and  navy  ofiBcer,  the  priest,  and  the 
gentleman  of  the  city  and  the  country — forms  about  one-third  of  the  popula- 
tion. The  Portuguese  population,  in  number,  is  about  one-sixth.  Below  these 
are  the  varieties, —  making  about  one-half  the  census, — the  negro,  mulatto, 
mestizo,  and  Indian.  The  wants  of  the  latter  are  few  and  cheap: — a  house 
floored  on  the  naked  earth,  palm-thatched  at  the  sides  and  overhead,  with 
hammocks  slung  diagonally  across  it  for  sitting  and  sleeping,  and  with  attire 
exceeding  Eve's  garden-dress  merely  by  a  shirt  or  pantaloons ;  besides  these, 
the  sea  and  earth,  equally  bountiful,  spread  their  tables  with  plenty.  But  indi- 
viduals of  one  class  easily  shift  into  another.  Genteel  persons  sometimes  get 
out  of  their  places  and  become  vagabonds ;  while,  overcoming  the  slightest 
possible  obstacle  on  account  of  color,  exchanges  in  society  are  made,  as  every- 
where else,  by  some  in  subordinate  ranks  forcing  themselves  out  of  their  posi- 
tions upward. 

"A  musical  furor  rages  like  the  dog-star.  Piano  and  harp  are  vocal  in  the 
parlors  and  saloons.  But  the  guitar — as  in  the  vine-covered  cottages  of  Portugal 
— is  a  joy  forever  in  all  the  households  of  the  poor;  while  its  humbler  types — the 
banjo  and  marimba — are  an  equally  universal  property  of  the  black  and  all  his 
derivatives.  The  slave  that  goes  bareheaded,  barefooted,  and  unshirted  vexes  it 
(the  marimba, — that  primitive  guitar)  in  the  soft  moonlight,  before  his  master's 
door,  in  the  presence  of  a  bevy  of  loitering  wenches,  on  whose  hearts,  as  a  second 
instrument,  he  plays, — taking  them  captive  by  the  sorcery  of  his  art.  The 
melodies  of  the  North  American  plantations  (the  African-born  airs  of  Virginia  and 
Tennessee,  long  since  threadbare  in  the  United  States)  are,  like  the  smallpox,  con- 
tagious through  all  ranks  of  society.  A  dozen  negroes,  carrying  a  large  crockery- 
hogshead  slung  over  their  shoulders  on  bamboos,  are  mourning,  in  minor  melody. 


536 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


the  fate  of  'Poor  Old  Ned.'      In  the  Street  Sant'  Anna,  from  behind  a  latticed 
door,  one  hears  a  musical  voice  telling  Susannah  not  to  cry.*     Aristocratic  pianos 

are  loud  with  '  Rosa  d' Alabama' 
and  '  Senhoritas  de  Bufl'alo,' 
with  much  more  music  than 
prosody. 

"Outside  and  inside,  S.  Luiz 
is  a  very  lovable  city.  Good- 
temper,  courtesy,  and  kindness 
are  almost  univei-sal.  This  is 
confined  to  no  position  of  life, 
A  ready,  overflowing  hospitality 
^'  welcomes  the  stranger  at  every 
I        door. 

''It  is  very  pleasant  to  draw 
a  picture  of  Maranham  by  me- 
mory, with  the  bay,  dotted  over 
with  little  islands  of  verdure 
broad  enough  in  some  places 
not  to  permit  you  to  see  the 
';  opposite  shores,  folding  it  in 
the  embrace  of  its  two  large 
estuaries ;  strange  fishermen's 
craft,  picturesque  montarias  and 
canoes,  lying  along  the  praias ; 
dainty,  tall  cocoanuts  fringing 
the  profile  of  the  city,  as  it 
seems  to  be  thrown  carelessly 
over  the  sharp  ridge  that  ad- 
vances into  the  bay ;  groves  of 
"*'"^^\ft  bananas   and   oranges    clinging 

THE    MARIMBA.  On  its  steep  sides;  a  redolence 

of  sweets  from  native  flowers 
filling  the  air ;  occasional  mirantes  pretentiously  stretching  up  above  tlie  general 
perspective  of  red  tiles ;  and  the  tall  tower  of  the  cathedral  and  the  populous 
turrets  of  scores  of  churches  pushing  their  rounded  pinnacles  into  the  sky. 

"'Swallows,'  says  Dr.  Johnson,  'certainly  sleep  all  winter.     A  number  of  them 


■v. 


*  The  wide  diffusion  of  the  so-called  "  Ethiopian  Melodies"  of  the  United  States  is  almost  incredible. 
In  1849,  at  one  o'cloclc  in  the  morning,  I  was  riding  from  Charing  Cross  to  the  Surrey  side  of  London, 
and  heard  a  party  of  young  Englishmen  singing,  at  tlie  top  of  their  voices,  '"Oil.  Susannah!"  kc.  Once, 
in  passing  over  the  Gloria  Hill,  at  Rio  de  .Janeiro.  I  caught  the  notes  of  the  same  tune,  which  was  being 
performed  by  one  of  the  Inmates  of  a  Brazilian  cottage.  But  the  most  unexpected  treat,  in  tliis  parti- 
cular, I  experienced  in  1S60,  at  Terracina, — the  ancient  Anxur.  and  not  fiir  from  the  Three  Taverns 
mentioned  in  Acts  xxviii.  15.  It  was  an  Italian  midnight ;  and,  while  I  was  listening  to  the  sound 
of  the  Mediterranean  wave,  as  it  broke  upon  the  decaying  quays  of  Terracina,  and  thinking  of  the  long 
past  of  old  Rome,  I  was  startled  by  a  clear  voice  (which  made  the  ruins  around  us  ring)  sending  forth 
upon  the  night-air  "Old  Uncle  Ned."  It  suddenly  dashed  away  every  thought  of  Italy  and  Rome  and 
carried  me  most  hastily  over  the  ocean.  I  afterward  discovered  that  the  serenader  was  a  Boston 
Yankee,  wlio  had  wandered  to  this  quiet  nook,  and  who  had  been  so  singularly  affected  by  the  sacred 
and  classic  associations  that  he  gave  vent  to  the  "  Ancient  Uncle  Edward,"  as  most  in  accordance  with 
emotions  called  forth  by  the  antiquity — classic  and  sacred — of  Terracina. — J.  C.  F. 


How  THE  Swallows  Winter.  537 

conglobulate  together  by  flying  round  and  round,  and  then,  all  in  a  heap,  throw 
themselves  under  water  and  lie  in  the  bed  of  a  river.'  The  first  greeting  at  Maran- 
ham  to  the  April  visitor  is  the  dear  old  friend  the  swallow.  He  builds  his  house 
under  the  tiled  eaves.  It  haunts  church-spires  in  myriads,  as  though  a  religious 
bird.  As  the  sun  goes  down  and  shines  with  diminished  beams,  and  until  he 
finally  sinks  to  rest,  far  up  in  the  sky  little  flocks  of  swallows  are  seen  wheeling  in 
giant  circumferences.  Sometimes  their  enemy  the  vulture,  at  the  same  hour  of  the 
evening,  is  up  there  with  his  family,  airing,  after  a  day  spent  shamefully  among  car- 
casses. Then  squadrons  of  swallows  muster  and  drive  him  from  those  azure  fields. 
Now  they  disport  themselves  along  the  earth,  now  flit  on  lazy  wing  above  the  house- 
tops, or  pick  a  zigzag  way  along  the  airy  avenues,  among  the  groves  of  palm  and 
figs  and  oranges,  or  dart  away,  swift  and  unerring  as  an  arrow,  after  some  gay 
butterfly,  from  which — as  riches  cannot  shield  from  death — his  velvet  bosom  and 
painted  wings  cannot  buy  him  escape.  A  half-dozen  weeks  hence,  the  swallow  that 
sits  at  the  margin  of  that  red  tile,  teaching  her  young,  with  afi"ectionate  art,  to  fly, 
may,  under  Northern  skies,  at  home,  skim  above  the  fragrant  clover-meadows  or 
yellow  harvests,  or  through  the  blossoming  orchard  or  butternut-clump,  or  lave  her 
white  bosom  in  the  little  lake,  or  sweep  along  the  hill,  chasing  the  shadow  of  a 
lazy  cloud.  Thus  are  the  swallows  delightfully  occupied  during  our  cold  winter, 
and  when  the  time  to  migrate  arrives  they  gather  in  countless  hosts  on  all  the 
house-tops,  preparatory  to  their  long  journey,  to  proclaim,  with  other  harbingers, 
to  Northern  lands,  still  brown  with  the  hues  of  annual  death,  that  light-footed 
Spring  is  coming  with  a  power  of  resurrection.  Choicest  of  the  gifts  with  which 
man  mitigates  his  lot  is  the  physical  charm  of  all  beauteous  nature,  its  mute  yet 
divinely-speaking  flowers,  and  its  happy  birds,  harmonious  with  more  than  choral 
sweetness. 

•'The  sight  of  the  pretty  white  village  of  Alcantara,  of  five  or  six  thousand 
inhabitants,  a  half-dozen  miles  distant  across  the  bay,  makes  one  wish  to  visit 
the  mainland.  Alcantara  is  noted  for  the  production  of  salt,  g.athered,  as  in 
some  of  the  West  India  Islands,  from  natural  pools  supplied  with  water  from  the 
oceau  at  the  recurrence  of  the  spring-tides.  A  few  miles  farther  up  the  coast  is 
the  village  of  Guimaraens,  in  the  midst  of  a  region  abounding  in  cotton,  rice,  and 
mandioca. 

"The  twin-bays  of  San  Marks  and  San  Jos6,  immediately  behind  the  island 
of  Maranham,  are  reached  from  the  interior  of  the  province  by  several  rivers — the 
Pindare,  the  Mearim,  and  the  Itapicurd  —  hardly  more  considerable  than  the 
Mohawk  or  the  Upper  Wabash.  As  Alcantara  invites  you  to  its  shores,  these 
rivers  tempt  you  to  ascend  their  mangrove-lined  banks  to  their  sources. 

"The  mangrove-tree  is  present  along  all  the  tide-water  of  Northern  Brazil, 
and  at  high-water  is  standing  in  it  at  mid-waist,  only  its  branches,  sea-green 
leaves,  and  a  ftew  white  blossoms  above  it.  Behind  it,  on  the  high  shore,  are  lines 
of  towering  palms.  Vegetable  propriety  is  outraged  in  the  manner  in  which  the 
mangrove  grows.  From  its  shaft,  a  half-dozen  inches  in  diameter  and  a  half- 
dozen  feet  high,  it  puts  forth  horizontal  branches.  These,  in  turn,  drop  down 
suckers,  that  become  rooted  into  the  mud  and  soon  attain  the  size  of  the  parent 
stem;  and  these,  in  turn,  send  out  other  branches  and  drop  other  stems,  till 
the  tree  has  grown  into  a  large  framework,  and  so  strengthens  itself  against  the 
tempests.  In  its  deep  shadows,  where  no  human  foot  intrudes,  the  sericoria 
—  the  woodcock  of  the  tropics — fearlessly  leads  abroad  its  young.  Upon  the 
Tv/ots  oysters  cling,  and,  at  low-water,  present  the  cui-ious  spectacle  of  bivalves 


588  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

growing  on  trees.  The  mangrove  contains,  in  great  abundance,  the  principle 
of  tannin,  which,  in  the  form  of  a  concocted  extract,  may  become  a  valuable  article 
of  commerce." 

The  montaria  referred  to  is  thus  described  by  Dr.  Kidder : — 

"In  the  river,  in  front  of  the  Varadoura,  a  respectable  collection  of  merchant- 
vessels  may  generally  be  seen  at  anchor.  None  of  the  water-craft,  however,  appear 
more  picturesque  than  does  the  montaria, — a  species  of  flat-boat  used  much  on 


THE      MONTARIA. 

these  waters.  In  the  first  one  which  I  sa.w,  I  counted  ten  Indians  paddling  it 
rapidly  against  the  tide.  They  each  held  a  paddle,  about  the  size  and  shape  of  an 
oval  spade,  perpendicularly  in  both  hands,  and,  all  striking  at  once  into  the  water, 
gave  the  boat  great  momentum." 

We  now  bid  adieu  to  the  clean,  the  gay,  the  hospitable  city  of 
San  Luir,  and  steam  for  Para. 

JVote  for  1SG6. — Since  this  chapter  was  written,  J.  C.  F.  has  visited  the  whole 
coast  from  Rio  de  Janeiro  to  Panl,  and  the  cities  of  Bahia  and  Pernambuco  four 
times  in  as  many  years.  He  would  be  glad  to  enumerate  the  many  improvements 
which  have  taken  place,  in  railways,  &c.;  but  want  of  space  forbids.  '  He  cannot, 
however,  forget  the  many  warm  receptions,  particularly  at  Pernambuco,  from 
Messrs.  Swift,  Hitch  &  Rollins,  (the  various  partners  of  Henry  Forster  &  Co.,)  from 
S.  P.  Johnson,  from  the  Baron  of  Livramento,  a  "live"  Brazilian,  from  Sr.  Tasso, 
and  from  the  Sa.  e  Albuquerque  family  at  Gararapes;  and  neither  is  he  unmindful 
of  the  kindness  of  two  eminent  Brazilian  statesmen,  the  Visconde  de  Camarigibe 
and  the  Visconde  de  Boa  Vista,  as  also  of  Dr.  Vasconcellos,  editor  of  the  Jornal  do 
Recife. 


CHAPTEE  XXVI. 

MAGNIFICENCE    OF    NATURE    IN    THE    BRAZILIAN    NORTH THE    CITY    OF    PArX THB 

ENTRANCE    OF   THE    AMAZON THE    FIRST    PROTESTANT    SERMON    ON    THESE  WATERS 

PARALLEL    TO   THE    BLACK-HOLE    OF  CALCUTTA EFFECTS    OF   STEAM-NAVIGATION 

IMPROVEMENTS      IN     PARX THE      CANOA BATHING     AND    MARKET     SCENES  — 

produce  of  para  —  india-rubber — para  shoes the  amazon  river mb. 

Wallace's  explorations — the    taca    marina — cetacea   of   the  amazon — • 

turtle-egg    butter  —  indian    archery brazilian    birds    and    insects 

visit    to    rice-mills    near    para  —  journey     through    the    forest  —  the 

PARANESE      bishop's      SUSPICIONS      OF      DR.    KIDDER STATE      OF      RELIGION      AT 

PARA. 

We  rapidly"  steam  over  the  four  hundred  miles  between  Maran- 
ham  and  Para,  and  we  have  reached  the  eastern  edge  of  the  Bra- 
zilian North, — the  maritime  border  of  that  vast  basin  which 
contains  an  area  equal  to  that  of  two-thirds  of  Europe.  We  are 
about  entering  iipon  a  region  the  most  wonderful  in  its  nature, — ■ 
where  every  object  is  upon  the  grandest  scale.  The  mightiest 
river  of  the  world  rises  in  the  loftiest  mountains  of  the  Western 
continent  and  flows  for  thousands  of  miles  through  forests  unparal- 
leled in  beauty,  extent,  and  productiveness.  Here  the  Victoria 
Regia,  the  giant  of  Flora's  kingdom,  nestles  on  the  bosom  of  the 
shady  pools,  or  reposes  on  the  still  waters  that  are  shielded  by  some 
verdant  peninsula  from  the  rushing  waves  of  the  never-ceasing 
flood  that  pours  from  the  Andes.  Millions  of  the  most  brilliant- 
plumagcd  birds  and  insects,  curious  quadrupeds  and  reptiles,  in- 
habit this  almost  terra  incognita.  Perhaps  no  region  of  our  globe 
possessing  such  Avonders  has  been  so  easy  of  access  and  so  little 
explored.  We  are,  however,  on  the  eve  of  a  great  change  :  steam 
is  doing  its  legitimate  work,  and  the  present  generation  may  not 
live  to  see  the  Valley  of  the  Amazon,  like  that  of  the  Mississippi, 
teeming  with  millions,  but  there  will  be  a  thorough  knowledge  of 

its  vast  resources.     Much  that  is  visionary  has  been  written  con 

539 


540  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

cerning  the  "mighty  Orellana;"  and  those  who  are  expecting  tc 
behold  its  fertile  shores  a  hulf-century  hence  filled  with  a  thrifty 
population  and  smiling  under  civilization  are  doubtless  doomed 
to  disappointment.  And,  while  Southern  Brazil  will  ever  be  the 
tit  field  of  enterprise  for  the  European  and  North  American,  still, 
there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  the  statement  of  Mr.  Wallace — 
the  most  thorough  explorer  of  the  Amazon  Valley — is  strictly  true 
when  he  says,  "For  richness  of  vegetable  production  and  fertility 
of  soil  it  is  unequalled  on  the  globe,  and  offers  to  our  notice  a 
natural  region  capable  of  suppoi'ting  a  gi'eater  population  and 
supplj'ing  it  more  completely'  with  the  necessaries  and  luxuries  of 
life  than  others  of  equal  extent." 

Amazonia  should  have  a  volume  to  itself;  but  this  work  would 
be  incomplete  without  some  notices  of  this  portion  of  the  Empire 
of  Brazil,  which  has  always  excited  a  deep  interest  on  both 
continents. 

The  city  of  Belem,  or  Para,  is  usually  the  point  of  departure  for 
those  visiting  the  Amazonian  region  from  the  East.  There  was 
formerly  a  land  and  water  route  from  Maranhain  to  Pani,  which 
has  now  been  abandoned :  according  to  Mr.  Southey,  it  used  to  be 
performed  by  canoes  passing  through  the  continent,  and  coasting 
around  not  less  than  thirty-two  bays,  many  of  them  so  large  that 
sight  cannot  span  them.  These  bays  are  connected  by  a  labyrinth 
of  streams  and  Avaters,  so  that  the  voj'age  maj*  be  greatly  short- 
ened by  ascending  one  river  with  the  flow,  crossing  to  another,  and 
descending  with  the  ebb.  The  distance  thus  circuitously  measured 
is  about  three  hundred  leagues,  and  maj'  be  traversed  in  thirty 
days.     Dr.  Kidder  says, — 

"I  met  with  one  individual  who  had  in  early  life  passed  through  this  inland 
passage  in  a  much  more  direct  course,  his  voyage  occupying  only  fourteen  days.  It 
was  at  that  golden  era  when  Indian  labor  was  plenty  and  could  be  secured  at  four 
cents  per  day.  Some  years  after,  the  same  individual  wished  to  perform  this 
voyage,  but  was  forced  to  abandon  it,  from  the  difficulty  of  finding  canoe-men  to  serve 
him  even  at  fifty  cents  per  day.  He  entertained  the  most  delightful  recollections 
of  the  route,  exhibiting  as  it  did  the  gloiies  of  nature  in  all  their  pristine  loveliness. 
Nothing  interrupted  the  security  of  the  traveller,  and  nothing  disturbed  the  silence 
of  those  sylvan  retreats  save  the  chattering  of  monkeys  or  the  carolling  of  birds. 
The  silver  expanse  of  waters,  and  the  magnificent  foliage  of  tropical  forests,  taller 
than  the  world  elsewhere  contains,  and  so  dense  as  almost  to  exclude  the  light  of  the 
Bun,  combined  to  impress  the  mind  with  inexpressible  grandeur. 

"  The  canoes  were  drawn  up  on  shore  every  night  when  refreshment  and  repose 


The  Entrance  of  the  Amazon. 


541 


were  des.red,  and  the  skilful  Indians,  in  a  few  moments,  could  secure  sufficient 
game  for  the  subsistence  of  the  party.  Thus  the  voyage  was  prosecuted  with  little 
fatigue  and  with  every  diversion." 

In  some  portions  of  Brazil  where  there  are  so  many  streams  to 
be  crossed,  ferry-boats,  on  some  occasions,  were  formerly  extem- 
porized. An  ox-liide  was  the  principal  material  for  the  construc- 
tion, and  a  slave  was  the  means  of  propulsion. 


NOVEL     FERRY-BOAT. 


Para  is  situated  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  which,  some  con- 
tend, is  but  a  continuation  of  the  Tocantins,  and  not  one  of  the 
mouths  of  the  Amazon.  Mr.  Wallace  inclines  to  the  former,  but 
general  belief  to  the  latter,  opinion. 

During  the  prevalence  of  certain  winds,  and  owing  to  the  strong 
currents,  which  force  the  fresh  water  far  out  to  sea,  the  entrance 
of  the  Pani  River  is  sometimes  both  difficult  and  dangerous. 
My  colleague  thus  describes  his  experience : — 

"  We  entered  this  mouth  of  the  Amazon  at  a  fortunate  juncture.  The  weather 
was  so  clear  that  we  distinctly  saw  the  breakers  on  both  the  Tigoca  and  Braganza 
banks,  and  the  tide  had  just  commenced  flowing  upward.  For  nearly  an  hour  we 
could  observe,  just  ahead,  the  conflict  of  the  ascending  and  descending  waters. 
Finally,  the  mighty  force  of  the  ocean  predominated,  and  the  current  of  the  river 
seemed  to  recoil  before  it. 

"  This  phenomenon  is  called,  from  its  aboriginal  name,  pororoca,  and  gives  cha 
racter  to  the  navigation  of  the  Amazon  for  hundreds  of  miles.  No  sailing-craft  can 
descend  the  river  while  the  tide  is  running  up.  Hence,  both  in  ascending  and 
descending,  distances  are  measured  by  tides.     For  instance.  Para  is  three  tides 


542  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

from  the  ocean,  and  a  small  vessel  entering  with  the  flood  must  lie  at  anchor  during 
two  ebb-tides  before  she  can  reach  the  city.  Canoes  are  sometimes  endangered  in 
the  commotion  caused  by  the  pororoca,  and  hence  they  generally,  in  anticipation, 
lie  to  in  certain  places  called  et<peras  or  resting-places,  where  the  water  is  known 
to  be  but  little  agitated.  Most  of  the  vessels  used  in  the  commerce  of  the  Upper 
Amazon  are  constructed  with  reference  to  this  peculiarity  of  the  navigation,  being 
designed  for  floating  on  the  current  rather  than  for  sailing  before  the  wind,  although 
their  sails  may  often  be  made  serviceable. 

"The  ebb  and  flow  of  the  tides  in  the  Amazon  are  observed  with  regularity  five 
hundred  miles  above  the  mouth,  at  the  town  of  Obidos.  The  pororoca  is  much 
more  violent  on  the  northern  side  of  the  island  of  Marajo,  where  the  mouth  is  wider 
and  the  cm-rent  becomes  more  shallow. 

"  As  we  passed  up  the  great  river,  the  color  of  the  water  changed  from  the  dark 
hue  of  the  ocean  we  had  left  to  a  light  green,  and  afterward,  by  degrees,  to  a  muddy 
yellow.  We  were  barely  in  sight  of  the  southeastern  bank  of  the  river;  and,  after 
we  had  ascended  more  than  forty  miles,  the  island  of  Marajo  began  to  be  visible  on 
the  opposite  side.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  approached  nearer  the  continent, 
and  the  shore  was  seen  to  be  uniformly  level  and  densely  covered  with  mangrove- 
thickets.  The  only  village  distinctly  seen  was  Collares,  which  our  commander, 
Captain  Hayden,  had  captured  during  the  revolution.  The  whole  day  we  were 
borne  along  by  the  combined  force  of  steam  and  wind,  but  the  tide  was  part  of  the 
time  against  us.  At  evening  a  clear  full  moon  shed  down  from  an  unclouded  sky 
new  splendor  upon  a  scene  already  sublime.  A  most  fragrant  breeze  from  the  land 
became  more  and  more  perceptible  as  the  river  narrowed.  Two  boats  were  the 
only  craft  we  saw  during  the  whole  ascent.  Finally,  we  came  alongside  the  Forte 
da  Barra,  two  miles  distant  from  the  city  of  Belem,  and  were  hailed  as  we  passed. 
The  lights  of  the  town,  and  of  vessels  in  front  of  it,  then  became  visible.  We 
described  a  semicircle  around  the  harbor,  passing  between  two  vessels-of-war,  and 
came  to  an  anchor  at  ten  o'clock. 

"The  towers  of  the  cathedral,  of  the  palace,  and  of  several  churches,  were  dis- 
tinctly visible  in  the  moonlight. 

"The  second  day  after  our  arrival  was  the  Sabbath,  and  through  the  courtesy 
of  Captain  H.  it  was  arranged  that  I  should  hold  a  Bethel  service  on  board  the 
Maranhense  steamer.  Some  American  seamen  were  present,  and  several  persons 
came  from  the  shore.  These,  together  with  the  ship's  company,  formed  an  audience 
to  whom  I  announced  the  tidings  of  the  kingdom  of  God.  Making  allowance  for 
the  circumstance  of  a  public  packet  just  clear  of  her  passengers  and  the  same 
night  going  to  sea  with  another  supply,  the  occasion  was  very  favorable  for  divine 
service,  and  I  felt  truly  grateful  for  the  opportunity — probably  the  first  ever  enjoyed 
by  any  Protestant  minister — of  attempting  to  preach  Jesus  and  the  resurrection 
upon  the  wide  waters  of  the  Amazon.  I  held  similar  services  at  Par4  on  seven  suc- 
ceeding Sabbaths, — once  on  board  an  American  vessel  in  port,  and  at  other  times  in 
the  private  house  of  a  friend. 

"  The  location  of  Paril,  or  the  city  of  Belem,  is  in  1°  28^  S.  latitude  and  48°  28' 
W.  longitude.  Its  site  occupies  an  elevated  point  of  land  on  the  southeastern 
bank  of  the  Pard,  River,  the  most  important  mouth  of  the  Amazon.  This  city  ia 
eighty  miles  from  the  ocean,  and  may  be  seen  from  a  long  distance  down  the  river. 
It  has  a  very  imposing  appearance  when  approached  from  that  direction.  Its 
anchorage  is  very  good,  formed  by  an  abrupt  curve  in  the  stream,  and  admits  vessels 
of  the  largest  draft.     The  great  island  of  Marajo  forms  the  opposite  bank,  twenty 


Effects  of  the  Indian  Revolution.  543 

miles  distant,  but  is  wholly  obscured  from  sight  by  intervening  and  smaller 
islands. 

"The  general  appearance  of  Par4  corresponds  to  that  of  most  Brazilian  towns, 
presenting  an  array  of  whitened  walls  and  red-tiled  rOofs.  The  plan  on  which  it  is 
laid  out  is  not  deficient  in  either  regularity  or  taste.  It  possesses  a  number  of  public 
squares,  and  the  streets,  though  not  wide,  are  well  paved,  or  rather  macadamized. 
The  proportion  of  large,  well-built  houses  is  respectable,  although  the  back-streets 
are  mostly  filled  with  those  that  are  diminutive  in  size  and  iudiiferent  in  con- 
struction. 

'♦  The  style  of  dwelling-houses  is  peculiar,  but  well  adapted  to  the  climate.  A 
wide  veranda  is  an  essential  portion  of  every  habitation.  It  sometimes  extends 
quite  around  the  outside  of  the  building,  while  a  similar  construction  prevails  on 
at  least  three  sides  of  a  spacious  area  within.  A  part  of  the  inner  veranda,  or  a 
room  connected  with  it,  serves  as  the  dining-room,  and  is  almost  invariably  airy  and 
pleasant.  The  front-rooms  only  are  ceiled,  save  in  the  highest  and  most  expensive 
edifices.  Latticed  windows  are  more  common  than  glass,  but  some  houses  are  fur- 
nished with  both,  although  preference  is  always  given  to  the  former  in  the  diy  sea- 
son. Instead  of  small,  dark,  and  unventilated  akoves  and  sweltering  beds  for 
sleeping,  they  have  suspension-hooks  arranged  for  swinging  hammocks  across  the 
corners  of  all  the  large  rooms,  and  transversely  along  the  entire  sweep  of  the 
verandas.  Some  dwellings  contain  fixtui'es  of  this  sort  for  swinging  up  fifty  or 
sixty  persons  every  night  with  the  least  possible  inconvenience. 

"The  eflFects  of  the  revolution  of  1835  are  still  very  apparent  in  Pari.  Almost 
every  street  shows  a  greater  or  less  number  of  houses  battered  with  bullets  or 
cannon-shot.  Some  were  but  slightly  defaced,  others  were  nearly  destroyed.  Of 
the  latter,  some  have  been  repaired,  others  abandoned.  The  S.  Antonio  Convent 
was  much  exposed  to  the  cannonading,  and  bears  many  marks  of  shot  in  its  walhi. 
One  of  the  missiles  was  so  unlucky  as  to  destroy  an  image  perched  in  a  lofty  nicho 
on  the  front  of  the  convent." 

This  revolution  was  one  of  the  most  successful  on  record, 
where  the  aborigines,  guided  by  white  leaders,  nearly  regained 
their  power,  and  for  a  time  held  in  subjection  the  European 
descendants.  Para,  though  now  prosperous,  has  been  singularly 
unfortunate  in  the  check  to  its  progress  which  has  been  the 
heritage  of  many  revolts. 

The  traveller,  on  entering  this  city,  is  struck  with  the  peculiar 
appearance  of  the  people.  The  regularlj'-descended  Portuguese 
and  Africans  do  not,  indeed,  differ  from  their  brethren  in  other 
parts;  but  they  are  comparatively  few  here,  while  the  Indian  race 
predominates.  The  aboriginals  of  Brazil  may  here  be  seen  both  in 
pure  blood  and  in  every  possible  degree  of  intermixture  with  both 
blacks  and  whites.  They  occupy  every  station  in  society,  and 
may  be  seen  as  the  merchant,  the  tradesman,  the  sailor,  the  sol- 
dier, the  priest,  and  the  slave.  In  the  last-named  condition  they 
excited  most  my  attention  and  sympathy.     The  thought  of  slavery 


544  Brazil  and  the  Braziliaxs. 

is  always  revolting  to  an  ingenuous  mind,  wliether  it  be  considered 
as  forced  upon  the  black,  the  white,  or  the  red  man.  But  there 
has  been  a  fatality  connected  with  the  enslavement  of  the  Indians, 
extending  both  to  their  captors  and  to  themselves,  which  invests 
their  servitude  with  peculiar  horrors. 

Nearly  all  the  revolutions  that  have  occurred  at  Para  are 
directl}"  or  indirectly  traceable  to  the  spirit  of  revenge  with  which 
the  bloody  expeditions  of  the  early  slave-hunters  are  associated  in 
the  minds  of  the  natives  and  mixed  bloods  thi^oughout  the  country. 
The  Brazilian  revolution  in  this  part  of  the  Empire  was  attendea 
"with  greater  horrors  than  in  an}'  other  province. 

When  the  independence  of  the  country  was  declared,  Para  was 
for  a  time  held  by  the  Portuguese  authorities.  On  tlie  arrival  of 
Lord  Cochrane  at  Maranham,  he  despatched  one  of  his  officers, 
(Captain  Grenfell,)  with  a  brig-of-war,  to  take  possession  of  Para. 
This  officer  had  recourse  to  a  stratagem  Avhich,  although  success- 
ful, was  little  more  creditable  to  his  bz'avery  than  his  integrity. 

Having  arrived  near  the  city,  he  summoned  the  place  to  surren- 
der, asserting  that  Lord  Cochrane  was  at  anchor  below,  and,  in 
case  of  opposition,  would  enforce  his  authority  with  a  vengeance. 
Intimidated  b}'  this  threat,  the  city  hastened  to  swear  allegiance 
to  the  throne  of  Dom  Pedro  I.,  and  Grenfell  managed  to  have 
obnoxious  individuals  expelled  before  his  deceit  was  found  out. 
Opposition,  however,  soon  sprang  up :  a  party  was  organized 
with  the  intent  of  deposing  the  provincial  junta.  The  latter, 
of  course,  claimed  the  protection  of  Grenfell.  He  immediately 
landed  with  his  men,  and,  joining  the  troops  of  the  authorities, 
easil}'  succeeded  in  quelling  the  insurrection.  A  large  number  of 
prisoners  were  taken,  and  five  ringleaders  in  the  revolt  were  shot 
in  the  public  square.  Thence  returning  on  board,  he  received,  the 
same  .evening,  an  order  from  the  president  of  the  junta  to  prepare 
a  vessel  large  enough  to  hold  two  hundred  prisoners.  A  ship  of 
six  hundred  tons'  burden  was  accordingly  selected.  It  afterward 
appeared  that  the  number  of  prisoners  actually  sent  on  board  by 
the  president  was  two  hundred  and  fifty-three.  These  men,  in 
the  absence  of  Captain  Gi-enfell,  were  forced  into  the  small  hold 
of  the  prison-ship,  and  2)laced  under  a  guard  of  fifteen  Brazilian 
soldiers. 


Parallel  to  the  Black-Hole  of  Calcutta.         545 

"Crowded  until  almost  unable  to  breathe,  and  suifei-ing  alike  from  heat  and 
thirst,  the  poor  wretches  attempted  to  force  their  way  on  deck,  but  were  repulsed 
by  the  guard,  who,  after  firing  upon  them  and  fastening  down  the  hatchway,  threw 
a  piece  of  ordnance  across  it  and  effectually  debarred  all  egress.  The  stifling  sensa- 
tion caused  by  this  exclusion  of  air  drove  the  suffering  crowd  to  utter  madness,  and 
many  are  said  to  have  lacerated  and  mangled  each  other  in  the  most  horrible  man- 
ner. Suffocation,  with  all  its  agonies,  succeeded.  The  aged  and  the  young,  the 
etrong  and  feeble,  the  assailant  and  his  antagonist,  all  sank  down  exhausted  and 
in  the  agonies  of  death.  In  the  hope  of  alleviating  their  sufferings,  a  stream  of 
water  was  at  length  directed  into  the  hold,  and  toward  morning  the  tumult  abated, 
but  from  a  cause  which  had  not  been  anticipated.  Of  all  the  two  hundred  and  fifty- 
three,  four  only  were  found  alive,  who  had  escaped  destruction  by  concealing  them- 
selves behind  a  water-butt." — Armitaye,  vol.  ii.  p.  108. 

This  dreadful  scene  is  perhaps  unparalleled  in  history,  or  finds 
its  parallel  alone  in  the  black-hole  of  Calcutta.  Its  only  mitigation 
consisted  in  its  having  been  caused  by  carelessness  and  ignorance, 
without  "intent  to  kill."  It  has,  however,  but  too  much  affinity 
with  the  treatment  of  the  prisoners  taken  and  confined  at  the  same 
place  in  the  subsequent  civil  revolutions.  Vast  numbers  of  these 
unhappy  men  were  crowded  into  the  prison  of  the  city  and  of  the 
fort,  where  they  were  kept,  without  hope  of  release,  until  death 
set  them  free.  Besides,  a  prison-ship,  called  the  Xin  Xin,  was 
tilled  to  its  utmost  capacity.  Dr.  Kidder  has  estimated  that  not 
less  than  three  thousand  had  died  on  board  that  one  vessel  in  the 
course  of  five  or  six  years.  My  colleague  thus  speaks  of  the  last 
great  revolt  at  Para  : — 

"The  disorders  that  broke  out  at  Pard  in  1835  were  disastrous  in  the  extreme. 
They  first  commenced  among  the  troops.  The  soldiers  on  guard  at  the  palace 
seized  an  opportunity  favorable  to  their  designs,  and  on  the  7th  of  January  simul- 
taneously assassinated  the  president  of  the  province,  the  commander-at-arms,  and 
the  port-captain.  A  sergeant,  by  the  name  of  Gomez,  assumed  the  command,  and 
commenced 'an  indiscriminate  slaughter  of  the  Portuguese  residents.  After  twenty 
or  thirty  reputable  shopkeepers  had  been  killed,  these  insurgents  proceeded  to 
liberate  about  fifty  prisoners,  among  whom  was  Felix  Antonio  Clemento  Malcher, 
an  individual  who  had  been  elected  a  member  of  the  provisional  junta  at  the  time 
of  Grenfell's  invasion,  but  who  was  subsequently  arrested  as  the  instigator  of  a 
rebellion  at  the  Rio  Acard.  This  Malcher  was  now  proclaimed  president,  and  a 
declaration  against  receiving  any  president  from  Rio  until  the  majority  of  Dom 
Pedro  II.  was  formally  made. 

"No  houses  were  broken  open  on  this  occasion.  Order  was  soon  restored,  and 
things  remained  quiet  till  the  19th  of  February.  At  this  time,  Francisco  Pedro 
Vinagre,  the  new  commander-at-arms,  having  heard  that  he  was  to  be  arrested  for 
some  cause,  called  out  the  soldiers  and  populace  to  attack  the  president.  Malcher 
shut  himself  up  in  the  Castello  fort  and  attempted  to  defend  himself.  In  the  course 
of  two  or  three  days  two  hundred  men  were  killed  and  the  president  captured. 

35 


546  Bkazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

He  was  sent  to  the  fort  at  the  Barra,  below  the  city,  as  if  to  be  imprisoned,  but 
was  murdered  on  the  way,  undoubtedly  by  the  orders  of  Vinagre,  who  was  now 
supreme. 

"On  the  12th  of  May  an  attempt  was  made,  under  the  constitutional  vice-pre- 
sident, Senhor  Correa,  to  take  possession  of  the  town,  by  landing  troops  from  a 
squadron  of  thirteen  vessels-of-war.  This  attempt  was  repulsed,  and  the  vessels 
dropped  down  the  river.  Soon  after,  a  new  president  (Senhor  Rodriguez)  arrived 
from  Rio.  On  the  24th  of  June  he  landed  with  a  body  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
troops,  the  insurgents  having  retired  toward  the  interior.  Disorders  still  continuea 
in  the  province,  and,  on  the  14th  of  August,  a  body  of  Indians,  led  on  by  Vinagre 
and  others,  suddenly  descended  upon  the  capital.  They  obtained  possession  of  the 
city  and  commenced  an  indiscriminate  massacre  of  the  whites.  The  citizens  were 
obliged  to  defend  themselves  as  they  best  could.  Vinagre  fell  in  the  midst  of  a 
street-skirmish.  An  English  and  a  French  vessel-of-war,  lying  in  the  harbor,  sent 
on  shore  a  body  of  marines,  but  soon  withdrew  them  on  account  of  the  pusillani- 
mous conduct  of  the  president. 

"  The  Indians  commenced  firing  upon  the  palace  from  the  highest  houses  of  which 
they  could  get  possession,  and  artillery  from  the  palace  attempted  to  return  the 
fire.  The  president,  however,  soon  withdrew  and  abandoned  the  city  to  destruc- 
tion. Many  families  succeeded  in  escaping  on  board  vessels  in  the  harbor,  but 
many  others  fell  victims  to  rapine  and  murder.  Edurado,  the  principal  leader  after 
the  death  of  Vinagre,  endeavored  to  protect  the  property  of  foreigners,  and,  to  some 
extent,  succeeded :  nevertheless,  as  fast  as  possible,  the  foreign  residents  withdrew 
from  the  city,  and  thought  themselves  fortunate  to  escape  with  their  lives.  The 
period  that  ensued  might  with  propriety  be  called  the  reign  of  terror.  But  it  was 
not  long  a  quiet  reign.  Disorders  broke  out  among  the  i-ebels,  and  mutual  assassi- 
nations became  common.  Business  was  effectually  broken  up,  and  the  city  was 
as  fast  as  possible  reverting  to  a  wilderness.  Tall  grass  grew  up  in  the  streets, 
and  the  houses  rapidly  decayed.  The  state  of  the  entire  province  became  similar. 
Anarchy  prevailed  throughout  its  vast  domains.  Only  a  single  town  of  the  Upper 
Amazon  maintained  its  iiitegrity  to  the  Empire.  Lawlessness  and  violence  became 
the  order  of  the  day.  Plantations  were  burned,  the  slaves  and  the  cattle  were 
killed,  and  in  some  large  districts  not  a  white  person  was  allowed  to  survive. 

"In  May  of  the  following  year,  General  Andr6a  arrived  as  a  new  president  from 
the  Imperial  Government  and  forced  his  way  into  the  capital.  He  proclaimed 
martial  law,  and,  by  means  of  great  firmness  and  severity,  succeeded  in  restoring 
order  to  the  province.  It  was,  however,  at  the  cost  of  much  blood  and  many  lives. 
He  was  accused  of  tyranny  and  inhumanity  in  his  course  toward  the  rebels  and 
prisoners ;  but  the  exigencies  of  the  case  were  great,  and  furnished  apologies. 
One  of  the  most  disgraceful  things  charged  upon  him  and  his  officers  was  the  abuse 
made  of  their  authority  in  plundering  innocent  citizens,  and  also  in  voluntarily 
protracting  the  war  so  that  their  selfish  ends  might  be  advanced.  Certain  it  is  that 
the  waste  of  life,  the  ruin  of  property,  and  the  declension  of  morals,  were  all  com- 
bined and  lamentably  continued ;  and  yet  in  this  state  of  things  we  see  nothing  but 
the  fruits  of  that  violence  and  injury  which,  from  the  first  colonization  of  Par&  by 
the  Portuguese,  had  been  practised  against  the  despised  Indians. 

"In  addition  to  the  more  direct  consequences  of  the  disorders,  the  salubrity 
of  the  country  and  of  the  city  itself  fearfully  deteriorated.  The  rapid  growth  and 
the  equally  rapid  decay  of  vegetable  matter  on  the  spots  from  which  years  of  culti- 
vation had  banished  it  brought  on  epidemics  and  other  fatal  diseases,  which  swept 


Effects  of  Steam-Navigation.  547 

ofiF  hundreds  tf  the  people  that  survived  the  wars.     Thus,  one  of  the  richest  and 
fairest  portions  of  the  earth  was  nearly  desolated. 

"Until  1848  it  was  only  by  slow  degrees  that  Pard  recovered.  Nothing,  indeed, 
but  the  extraordinary  and  spontaneous  fertility  of  the  whole  region  has  enabled 
the  province,  in  any  considerable  degree,  to  reclaira  its  business-relations.  Not- 
withstanding all  the  natural  beauties  so  profusely  exhibited  at  Pard, — reminding 
one,  at  every  step  and  at  every  glance,  of  the.  glorious  munificence  of  the  Creator, 
— there  are  but  few  places  which  suggest  sadder  reflections  upon  the  wickedness 
and  misery  of  man.  Until  within  a  few  years,  we  can  scarcely  point  to  a  bright 
spot  in  its  history.  During  the  early  periods  that  succeeded  its  settlement  by 
Europeans,  a  continual  crusade  was  carried  on  against  the  aboriginals  of  the  soil, 
for  the  purpose  of  reducing  them  to  a  state  of  servitude.  In  vain  were  the  reason- 
ing and  power  of  the  Jesuits  arrayed  in  opposition  to  this  course.  In  vain  was 
African  slavery  introduced  as  its  substitute.  The  cruel  and  sanguinary  purposes 
of  the  Portuguese  were  persevered  in.  An  innocent  and  inoffensive  people  were 
pursued  and  hunted  down  in  their  own  forests  like  beasts  of  prey.  Thus,  iniquity 
triumphed  ;  but  a  terrible  retribution  followed.  The  foul  passions  which  had  been 
nurtured  in  the  persecution  of  the  Indians  were  equally  malevolent  when  excited 
against  each  other  by  the  common  jealousies  and  differences  of  life.  For  a  long 
time  previous  to  the  outbreak  of  1835,  assassinations  had  been  the  order  of  the 
day.  Scarcely  a  night  passed  without  the  occurrence  of  more  or  less.  No  man's 
life  was  secure.  Revenge  rioted  in  blood.  This  was  too  much  the  case  in  other 
parts  of  the  country  at  the  same  peiiod,  but  at  Pard  worse  than  elsewhere.  Then 
followed  the  dreadful  scenes  already  described,  in  which  the  long-degraded  and 
down-trodden  Indians,  headed  by  fictious  and  intriguing  men,  gained  the  ascend- 
ency in  turn  and  drove  the  white  population  into  exile." 

It  is  a  singular  fact  that  Brazil  was  the  first  country  of  South 
America,  and  perhaps,  for  an  Empire  so  vast,  the  first  in  the  world, 
to  bind  her  provinces  together  by  steam-navigation.  Para  is  now 
reaping  the  fruits  of  this  Avise  measure.  The  great  old  Convent 
of  S.  Antonio  has  but  few  monks,  and  recently  the  greater  portion 
of  its  spacious  grounds  has  been  sold  to  the  Amazon  Navigation 
Company,  (a  Brazilian  association.)  This  company  is  now  erecting 
on  or  near  these  grounds  the  large  workshops,  coal-depots,  wharves, 
&c.  so  essential  to  the  proper  prosecution  of  their  various  and  ex- 
tended steam-interests.  The  Custom-House  was  formerly  a  huge 
ecclesiastical  building,  and  the  barracks  of  the  standing  arni}^  once 
belonged  to  the  order  of  Carmelites.  A  great  number  of  new 
houses  have  been  recently  erected  from  the  Custom-House  to  the 
Castello  fort,  and  an  extensive  pier  has  been  constructed  where 
formerly  there  were  no  facilities  for  landing  except  that  which  the 
beach  afforded.  The  streets  were,  a  few  years  since,  in  a  wretched 
state ;  but  from  the  date  of  the  regular  steamers  on  the  Amazon  (1853) 
there  has  been  a  vast  improvement.     Nearly  all  are  macadamized, 


548  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

and  are  well  lighted  by  campliene.  Formerly  the  rede  and  the 
most  antiquated  Portuguese  vehicles  were  the  only  means  of  land- 
conveyance  in  Parti.  Mr.  Henderson  (to  whom  I  am  indebted  for 
recent  information)  says  that  there  are  now  nearly  fifty  coaches, 
(of  Newark  and  Boston  manufacture,)  which  are  at  the  command 
of  citizens  or  visitors  ;  and  on  Sunday  j)articularly  are  they  most 
busily  occupied  iu  plying  between  Para  and  Nazare  at  the  modest 
rate  of  twentj^-five  cents  each  passenger.  The  ladies  formerlj^  made 
their  calls  and  visits  by  being  carried  in  a  hammock :  they  noAv  ride 
behind  a  pair  of  handsome  grays.  A  few  years  only  have  elapsed 
since  nearly  all  the  water  was  carried  in  truly  Oriental  style,  and 
the  following  beautiful  description  of  Dr.  Kidder  is  still  most 
accurate  so  far  as  nature  is  concei-ned;  but  in  regard  to  the  water- 
carriers  the  'picturesque  is  diminishing,  while  the  convenient  is 
gaining: — 

"  The  evening  and  morning  scenes  that  may  be  enjoyed  at  Pard  are  indescribably 
beautiful.  At  night  all  is  still,  save  the  occasional  rustling  of  a  balmy  breeze ;  and 
the  imagination  must  be  vivid  that  can  picture  to  itself  more  loveliness  than  is  ex- 
hibited when  the  moon  walks  forth  in  her  splendor.  The  dark  luxuriant  foliage, 
crovrning  hundreds  of  spreading  trees,  is  burnished  with  a  mellow  lustre  too  ex- 
quisite for  words  to  portray  ;  while  the  waving  plumes  of  numerous  palm-trees, 
glancing  their  reflections  downward  upon  the  beholder,  add  to  the  charms  of  the 
scenery.  The  opening  blossoms  of  many  fruit-trees  and  humbler  flowers  load  the 
air  with  a  fragrance  which  is  none  the  less  grateful  from  not  being  mingled,  as  in 
some  of  the  larger  towns,  with  oflFensive  effluvia.  The  blandness  of  the  evening  air 
is  in  delightful  contrast  to  the  rigors  of  the  noonday  sun,  and  an  occasional  breeze 
invigorates  the  system  after  either  the  confinement  or  the  exposure  of  the  day. 
Although  in  the  course  of  the  night  there  falls  a  copious  dew,  yet  so  balmy  and 
healthful  is  the  atmosphere  that  there  is  no  dread  of  exposing  to  it  the  most  deli- 
cate constitution.  This  is  the  climate  that  of  all  others  I  would  seek  as  a  relief  to 
enfeebled  health,  and  especially  for  pectoral  aff'ections. 

"A  morning  scene  is  scarcely  inferior  in  effect.  I  sometimes  went  out  to  enjoy 
it  long  before  the  mild  radiance  of  the  moon  was  lost  in  the  more  powerful  beams 
of  the  king  of  day,  who  at  his  appointed  time  rose  through  a  brief  twilight  and 
hastened  on  his  effulgent  course  through  the  cloudless  ether.  The  Brazilians  are 
generally  early  risers,  and  it  may  be  remarked  that  in  their  towns  generally  the 
foreign  houses  are  those  latest  opened  for  business.  Nevertheless,  there  are  few 
who  walk  abroad  for  the  pleasure  or  exercise  of  walking.  Almost  the  only  persons 
met  in  my  morning  walks  at  Pard  were  the  negroes  and  Indians,  in  countless  num- 
bers, going  with  earthen  jars  upon  their  heads  for  water. 

"  There  is  no  artificial  fountain  in  the  whole  city.  The  only  source  of  drinking- 
water  is  a  spring  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  town.  Jars  of  this  water  are  sometimes 
earned  around  on  horseback  for  sale,  to  accommodate  those  who  do  not  keep  a  large 
supply  of  servants.  A  few  wells  in  the  suburbs,  together  with  the  current  of  the 
river,  fui'uish  water  for  washing  and  similar  purposes," 


The  Ox-Carts  and  Advancing  Civilization.        549 

Though  a  few  tottering  and  almost  skeleton  horses  may  still  be 
seen  staggering  under  the  load  of  four  water-jars,  a  better  day  has 
dawned  upon  Para.  The  introduction  of  more  than  two  hundred 
water-carts,  drawn  each  by  a  single  ox,  is  an  event  to  be  chronicled 
as  an  advance  in  civilization,  and  shows  as  much  improvement  as 
macadamized  streets  and  modern  carriages.  The  Brazilian  is  far 
more  flexible  than  the  Portuguese.  A  few  j-ears  ago,  a  benevolent 
citizen  of  the  United  States  endeavored,  at  his  own  cost,  to  furnish 
the  peasantry  of  some  of  the  Portuguese  islands  with  suitable  and 
civilized  carts  instead  of  the  inconvenient  clumsy  vehicles  which 
they  and  their  fathers  before  them  had  been  using  for  centui-ies. 
His  benevolent  enterprise  was  entirely  frustrated,  for  they  Avould 
not  give  up  their  antiquated  ox-killing  carts.  In  1856,  Portugal 
was  the  only  division  of  Europe,  excepting  Turkey,  that  did  not 
possess  a  railway.  The  water-carts  of  Para  are  similar  in  shaj^e 
to  that  depicted  on  page  175. 

AVhile  the  city  fronts  upon  the  river,  its  rear  is  skirted  by  a 
shaded  walk  whose  equal  would  be  difficult  to  find  in  Brazil.  The 
Estrada  das  Mangubeiras  is  a  highway  extending  from  near  the 
Marine  Arsenal  on  the  river  side  to  the  Largo  da  Polvora  on  the 
eastern  extremity  of  the  cit}''.  It  is  intersected  b}'  avenues  lead- 
ing from  the  Palace  Square  and  the  Largo  do  Quartel.  Its  name 
is  derived  from  the  mangabeira-trees  with  which  it  is  densely 
shaded  on  either  side.  The  bark  of  these  shade-trees  is  of  a  light 
grayish  color,  regularly  striped  with  green;  their  product  is  a 
coarse  cotton  that  may  be  used  for  several  purposes:  their  appear- 
ance is  at  once  neat  and  majestic. 

On  the  grounds  of  the  old  Convent — now  the  Hospital — of  S. 
Jose,  a  botanical  garden  was  laid  out  in  1797;  but  it  was  neglected, 
and  finally  abandoned  during  the  troublous  times  of  182.3  and  '35. 

In  1854,  during  the  presidency  of  the  distinguished  and  talented 
Sebastiao  do  Eego  Barros,  formerly  Minister  of  War,  the  site  for 
a  new  botanical  garden  was  laid  out  farther  from  the  city  and  on 
a  far  more  extensive  scale.  He  sent  to  Europe  and  procured  five 
or  six  skilful  professional  gardeners,  who  designed  a  handsome 
plan  for  the  new  works,  which  will  doubtless  soon  be  prosecuted 
to  completion. 

Beyond  the  actual  precincts  of  the  city,  one  may  instantly  bury 


550  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

himself  in  a  dense  forest  and  become  shut  out  from  every  indica- 
tion of  the  near  residence  of  man. 

The  coolness  of  these  silent  shades  is  always  inviting,  but  the 
stranger  must  beware  lest  he  loses  his  way  and  thus  be  subjected 
to  many  annoyances  and  difficulties.  Formerly  there  were  many 
stories  told  of  persons  who  became  bewildered  in  the  mazes  of 
these  thickets,  and,  though  but  a  short  distance  off,  were  utterly 
unable  to  find  their  w\ay  back  to  town.  Several  j)ersons  are 
believed  to  have  perished  in  this  manner. 

All  important  posts  throughout  the  town  are  regularlj"  guarded, 
and  whoever  approaches  after  eight  o'clock  at  night  is  hailed  with 
a  harsh,  indistinct  call: — "  Quern  vat  Id?"  (Who  goes  there  ?)  The 
proper  answer  is,  ^^Amigo,"  (A  friend,) — which  many  contract  to  a 
swinish  grunt.  To  this  the  condescending  permission,  "  Passa 
largo!"  is  generally  retorted  by  the  soldier,  and  the  person  goes  by. 

My  colleague,  in  giving  his  experience  at  Para,  thus  writes: — 

"  As  my  lodgings  were  opposite  the  trem,  or  military  arsenal,  my  ears  became 
very  familiar  with  these  exclamations,  whicii  were  vociferated  the  whole  night  long. 
Not  only  these,  but  the  piercing  scream,  'As  armasr  which  resounded  every  hour 
when  guard  was  relieved,  and  the  blowing  of  a  horn  at  frequent  intervals, — as, 
for  example,  at  Ave  Maria,  when  all  the  soldiers  doif  their  caps  in  honor  of  the 
Virgin, — formed  no  small  annoyance,  at  least  during  houi's  allotted  to  repose. 
Another  peculiar  custom  of  Par4  is  the  ringing  of  bells  and  the  discharge  of 
rockets  at  a  veiy  early  hour  of  the  morning.  I  sometimes  heard  it  at  four  o'clock, 
and  with  much  regularity  at  five.     [In  1862,  J.  C.  F.  occupied  the  same  room.] 

"  Few  objects  at  Pard  attract  more  attention  from  the  stranger  than  the  fashion- 
able craft  of  the  river.  Vessels  of  all  sizes — from  that  of  a  sloop  down  to  a  shallop 
— are  called  canoas.  Few  canoes  proper,  however,  are  in  use.  The  montaria,  seen 
and  described  at  Maranham,  is  very  common  in  the  harbor. 

"The  large  cattoas,  made  for  freighting  on  the  river,  appear  construcited  for  any 
thing  else  rather  than  water-craft.  Both  stem  and  stern  are  square.  The  hull 
towers  up  out  of  the  water  like  that  of  a  Chinese  junk.  Over  the  quarter-deck  is 
constructed  a  species  of  awning,  or  round-house,  generally  made  of  thatch,  to  pro 
tect  the  navigator  against  the  sun  by  day  and  the  dew  by  night,  and,  it  also  may 
be  added,  against  the  moon  ;  for  the  Paraenses  are  very  superstitious  in  regard 
to  the  silver  beams  of  Luna.  Sometimes  a  similar  round-house  is  constructed 
over  the  bows,  giving  something  like  homogeneity  to  the  appearance  of  the  vessel. 
This  arrangement  rendei's  it  necessary  to  have  a  staging  or  spar-deck  rigged  up,  on 
which  to  perform  the  labors  of  navigation.  The  steersman  generally  sits  perched 
upon  the  roof  of  the  after  round-house.  The  idea  continually  disturbing  my  mind 
while  beholding  these  canoas  was,  that,  being  so  top-heavy,  they  were  liable  to  over- 
set, as  they  most  inevitably  would  if  exposed  to  a  gale  of  wind.  They  are  thought, 
however,  to  answer  very  well  their  purpose  of  floating  upon  the  tide.  Moreover, 
one  special  advantage  of  the  round-house  is  that  it  furnishes  room  for  the  swinging 
of  hammocks,  and  thus  saves  the  canoe-men  the  trouble  of  going  on  shore  to  sua- 


J 


Bathing  and  Market  Scenes. 


551 


pend  them  on  the  trees.  Mr.  Mawe  says  that,  in  descending  the  Amazon,  he  passed 
a  man  who  had  moored  his  canoe  while  he  fastened  his  bed  upon  some  branches 
of  a  tree  overhanging  the  water  and  took  a  nap ! 


AMAZONIAN      CANOA. 


"The  street  running  parallel  to  the  river  and  connecting  with  the  several  land- 
ings is  that  in  which  the  commercial  business  of  the  place  is  principally  transacted. 
At  certain  hours  of  the  day  it  presents  a  vei'y  lively  appearance. 

"Various  objects  and  customs  are  observed  at  Para  that  appear  altogether  pecu- 
liar to  the  place,  lu  one  section  of  the  city,  when  animals  are  slaughtered  for 
market,  va.-'t  numbers  of  vultures  are  observed  perched  upon  the  trees  or  wheeling 
lazily  through  the  air.  Along  the  margin  of  the  river,  both  morning  and  evening, 
great  numbers  of  people  may  be  seen  bathing.  No  ceremonies  are  observed  at  these 
very  necessary,  and  no  doubt  very  agreeable,  ablutions.  Men,  women,  and  chil- 
di'en — belonging  to  the  lower  classes  as  a  matter  of  course — may  be  seen  at  the 
same  moment  diving,  plunging,  and  swimming  in  different  directions. 

"There  is  generally  a  crowd  of  canoes  around  Ponta  da  Pedra,  the  principal 
landing-place.  These,  together  with  the  crowd  of  Indians  busily  hurrying  to  and 
fro,  conversing  in  the  mingled  dialects  of  the  Amazon,  are  peculiar  to  Par4.  Here 
may  be  seen  cargoes  of  Brazil-nuts,  cacdo,  varrilla,  annatlo,  sarsaparilla,  cimiamon, 
tapioca,  balsam  of  copaiba  in  pots,  coarse  dried  fish  in  packages,  and  baskets 
of  fruits,  in  infinite  variety,  both  green  and  dry.  Here  are  also  parrots,  macaws, 
aud  some  other  birds  of  gorgeous  plumage,  and  occasionally  monkeys  and  serpents, 
together  with  gum-elastic  shoes,  which  are  generally  brought  to  market  suspended 
on  long  poles  to  prevent  their  coming  in  contact  with  each  other.  These  formerly 
arrived  in  immense  quantities  ;  but  now  the  '  India-rubber'  is  mostly  conveyed  to 
market  in  the  shape  of  small  slabs. 

"The  indigenous  produce  of  the  province  of  Para  is  immense  in  quantity  and 
of  great  value.     If  the  people  were  only  industrious  in  collecting  what  nature  fur- 


552  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

nishes  so  bountifully  to  their  hands,  they  could  not  avoid  being  rich.  If  enter- 
prising cultivation  were  added  to  that  degree  of  industry,  there  is  no  limit  to  the 
vegetable  wealth  wnicli  might  be  drawn  from  this  treasure-house  of  nature. 

"Rice,  cotton,  sugar,  and  hides  are  exported  in  small  quantities,  and  are  pro- 
duced by  the  ordinary  methods.  The  trade  in  gum-elastic,  cac4o,  sarsaparilla, 
cloves,  uructi,  and  Brazil-nuts,  is  more  peculiar. 

"  The  use  of  the  caoutchouc  or  gum-elastic  was  learned  from  the  Omaguas, — 
a  tribe  of  Brazilian  Indians.  These  savages  used  it  in  the  form  of  bottles  and 
syringes:  (hence  the  name  syringe-tree.)  It  was  their  custom  to  present  a  bottle 
of  it  to  evei-y  guest  at  the  beginning  of  one  of  their  feasts.  The  Portuguese  settlers 
in  Para  were  the  first  who  profited  by  turning  it  to  other  uses,  converting  it  into 
shoes,  boots,  hats,  and  garments.  It  was  found  to  be  specially  serviceable  in  a 
country  so  much  exposed  to  rains  and  floods.  But  of  late  the  improvements  in  its 
manufacture  have  vastly  extended  its  uses  and  made  it  essential  to  the  health  and 
comfort  of  the  whole  enlightened  world.  The  aboriginal  name  of  this  substance 
was  cahuchii,  the  pronunciation  of  which  is  nearly  pi-eserved  in  the  word  caoutchouc. 
At  Par4  it  is  now  generally  called  syringa,  and  sometimes  borracha.  It  is  the  pro- 
duct of  the  Siphilla  elaslica, — a  tree  which  grows  to  the  height  of  eighty  and  some- 
times one  hundred  feet.  It  generally  runs  up  quite  erect,  forty  or  fifty  feet,  without 
branches.  Its  top  is  spreading,  and  is  ornamented  with  a  thick  and  glossy  foliage. 
On  the  slightest  incision  the  gum  exudes,  having  at  first  the  appearance  of  thick, 
yellow  cream. 

''The  trees  are  generally  tapped  in  the  morning,  and  about  a  gill  of  the  fluid  is 
collected  from  one  incision  in  the  comse  of  the  day.  It  is  caught  in  small  cups 
of  clay,  moulded  for  the  purpose  with  the  hand.  These  are  emptied,  when  full, 
into  a  jar.  No  sooner  is  this  gum  collected  than  it  is  ready  for  immediate  use. 
Forms  of  various  kinds,  representing  shoes,  bottles,  toys,  &c.,  are  in  readiness, 
made  of  clay. 

"When  the  rough  shoes  of  ParS.  are  manufactured,  it  is  a  matter  of  economy  to 
have  wooden  lasts.  These  are  first  coated  with  clay,  so  as  to  be  easily  withdrawn. 
A  handle  is  aflBxed  to  the  last  for  the  convenience  of  working.  The  fluid  is  poured 
over  the  form,  and  a  thin  coating  immediately  adheres  to  the  clay.  The  next  move- 
ment is  to  expose  the  gum  to  the  action  of  smoke.  The  substance  ignited  for  this 
purpose  is  the  fruit  of  the  wassoi^-palm.  This  fumigation  serves  the  double  purpose 
of  drying  the  gum  and  of  giving  it  a  darker  color.  When  one  coating  is  suflBcieutly 
hardened,  another  is  added  and  smoked  in  turn.  Thus,  any  thickness  can  be  pro- 
duced. It  is  seldom  that  a  shoe  receives  more  than  a  dozen  coats.  The  work, 
when  formed,  is  exposed  to  the  sun.  For  a  day  or  two  it  remains  soft  enough  to 
receive  permanent  impressions.  During  this  time  the  shoes  are  figured  according 
to  the  fuicy  of  the  operatives,  by  the  use  of  a  style  or  pointed  stick.  They  retain 
their  yellowish  color  for  some  time  after  the  lasts  are  taken  out  and  they  are  con- 
sidered ready  for  market.  Indeed,  they  are  usually  sold  when  the  gum  is  so  fresh 
that  the  pieces  require  to  be  kept  apart :  hence,  pairs  of  shoes  are  generally  tied 
together  and  suspended  on  long  poles.  They  may  be  seen  daily  at  Pard,  suspended 
over  the  decks  of  the  canoes  that  come  down  the  river  and  on  the  shoulders  of  the 
men  who  deliver  them  to  the  merchants.  Those  who  buy  the  shoes  for  exportation 
commonly  stuff  them  with  dried'  grass  to  preserve  their  extension.  Various  persons 
living  in  the  suburbs  of  Par4  collect  the  caoutchouc  and  manufacture  it  on  a  small 
scale.  But  it  is  from  the  surrounding  forest-country,  whei-e  the  people  are  almost 
entirely  devoted  to  this  business,  that  the  market  is  chiefly  supplied.     The  gum 


I 


India-Hubber. 


553 


may  be  gathered  during  the  entire  year ;  but  it  is  more  easily  collected  and  more 
serviceable  during  the  dry  season.  The  months  of  May,  June,  July,  and  August 
are  specially  devoted  to  its  preparation.  Besides  great  quantities  of  this  substance 
which  leave  Pard  in  other  forms,  there  have  been  exported  for  some  years  past 
about  three  hundred  thousand  pairs  of  gum-elastic  shoes  annually.  Tliere  are, 
however,  some  changes  in  the  form  of  its  exportation ;  and  a  few  years  ago  a  patent 
was  taken  out,  by  an  American  in  Brazil,  covering  an  invention  for  exporting 
caoutchouc  in  a  liquid  form.  The  Amazonian  region  now  supplies,  and  probably 
will  long  continue  to  supply,  in  a  great  degree,  the  present  and  the  rapidly- 
increasing  demand  for  this  material.  Several  other  trees — most  of  them  belonging 
to  the  tribe  Euphorbiacioe — produce  a  similar  gum ;  but  none  of  them  is  likely  to 
enter  into  competition  with  the  India-rubber  tree  of  Pari. 


MANUFACTURE      OF      INDIA-RUBBER      SHOES. 


"Another  tree,  not  uncommon  in  tlie  province,  called  the  massaranduba,  yields 
a  white  secretion,  which  so  resembles  milk  that  it  is  much  prized  for  an  aliment. 
It  forms,  when  coagulated,  a  species  of  plaster,  which  is  deemed  valuable.  The 
trees  yield  the  fluid  in  great  profusion.  Their  botanical  character  has  never  been 
properly  investigated.  It  has  been  said  that  the  juice  of  the  India-rubber  tree  la 
also  sometimes  used  as  milk,  and  that  the  negroes  and  Indians  who  work  in  its 
preparation  are  said  to  be  fond  of  drinking  it ;  but  a  young  lady  who  drank  it  at 
Pai'4  died  from  the  effects  of  the  coagulation  in  her  stomach. 

"  The  annato  or  urucd  is  another  valuable  production  of  Pard.  This  is  a  well- 
known  coloring-matter  of  an  orange  dye.  It  is  a  product  of  the  tree  known  to 
botanists  as  tlie  Bixa  orellana.  This  tree  grows  ordinarily  to  about  the  size  and 
form  of  the  quince-tree,  and  exhibits  clusters  of  red  and  white  flowers.  Its  coloring- 
matter  was  extensively  used  by  the  aboriginals  at  the  period  of  discovery.  By 
means  of  it  they  formed  various  kinds  of  paint,  and  were  fond  of  besmearing  the 
whole  surface  of  their  bodies  with  it. 


554  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

"  The  preparation  used  in  commerce  is  the  oily  pulp  of  the  seed,  which  is  rubbed 
off  and  then  left  to  ferment.  After  fermentation  it  is  rolled  into  cakes  weighing 
from  two  to  three  pounds,  and  in  this  form  is  exported.  Cacdo — the  substance 
from  which  chocolate  is  prepared — is  a  common  and  valuable  production  of  Pari. 
It  is  made  from  the  seeds  of  the  Theobroma  cacdo,  represented  on  page  5-9. 

"It  would  be  an  interesting  although  an  almost  endless  task  to  investigate  the 
botany  of  the  Amazon.  Laurels  are  yet  to  be  won  in  this  field  of  science ;  and  it 
mus.t  be  set  down  as  by  no  means  complimentary  to  American  botanists  that  they 
have  not  entered  it  as  competitors.  I  have  often  heard  of  Burchell  as  having  re- 
sided some  time  at  Pari ;  but  I  apprehend  that  he  was,  at  the  period  of  his  visit, 
too  far  advanced  in  years  to  do  full  justice  eitjier  to  his  own  reputation  or  to  the 
interminable  field  here  spread  before  him." 

The  most  thorough  exploration  of  the  Amazon  has  been  by  an 
Enghshman, — Mr.  Alfred  R.  Wallace,  whose  attention  was  directed 
to  Northern  Brazil  by  Mr.  Edwards's  little  book,  "A  Voyage  up  the 
Amazon."  With  the  enthusiasm  known  only  to  the  naturalist,  he 
entered  upon  this  almost  untrodden  field  in  1848,  and,  after  de- 
voting himself  to  the  study  of  the  strange  and  beautiful  objects 
which  abound  in  the  remotest  portions  of  the  interior,  in  1852  he 
gave  up  his  wandering  and  romantic  life  among  the  almost  unknown 
aborigines,  and  returned  to  England  laden  with  Flora's  richest 
spoils.  But,  alas  !  the  burning  of  the  ship  on  his  homeward  voyage 
not  only  caused  the  loss  of  his  entire  collection,  but  for  many  days 
his  life  was  exposed  in  an  open  boat  upon  the  broad  Atlantic.  Not- 
withstanding the  great  loss  of  materials, — which  every  naturalist 
and  traveller  can  fully  appreciate, — he  prepared  on  Northern  Brazil 
the  two  most  interesting  volumes  extant.  He  went  not  to  study 
the  government  and  the  people,  but  the  Indians,  forests,  flowers, 
birds,  and  the  wild  beasts  of  Amazonia.  Whoever  wishes  a  fresh 
and  reliable  book  on  nature  can  turn  to  Mr.  Wallace  with  a  surety 
that  he  will  find  in  the  "Narrative  of  Travels  on  the  Amazon  and 
Rio  Negro"  a  deeplj^-interesting  book  for  general  reading,  and  in 
the  "Palms  of  the  Amazon"  a  little  volume  which  the  naturalist 
will  count  among  his  best  treasures. 

The  waters  of  the  great  river  are  scarcely  less  productive  than 
the  soil  of  its  banks.  Innumerable  species  of  fish  and  amphibious 
animals  abound  in  it.  Several  large  kinds  of  fish  are  salted  and 
dried  for  use.  But  the  commerce  in  this  article  of  food  does  not 
extend  bej^ond  the  coast.  Owing  to  the  style  of  preparation,  or  to 
the  coarse  quality  of  the  fish,  foreigners  set  no  value  upon  it.     The 


Fish  at  the  Falls  of  the  Madeira.  655 

most  remarkable  inhabitant  of  these  waters  is  the  vaca  marina, 
commonly  called  by  the  Portuguese  peixe  boi,  or  fish-ox.  This 
name  is  evidently  given  on  account  of  the  animal's  size,  rather 
than  from  any  resemblance  to  the  ox  or  cow  other  than  its  being 
mammiferous. 

The  vaca  marina  cannot  be  called  amphibious,  since  it  never 
leaves  the  water.  It  feeds  principally  upon  a  water-plant  (cana 
brava)  that  floats  on  the  borders  of  the  stream.  It  often  raises  its 
head  above  the  water  to  respire  as  well  as  to  feed  upon  this  vege- 
table. At  these  moments  it  is  attacked  and  captured.  It  has  only 
two  fins,  which  are  small  and  situated  near  its  head.  The  udders 
of  the  female  are  beneath  these  fins.  This  has  been  pronounced 
the  largest  fish  inhabiting  fresh  water;    but,  notwithstanding  its 


PEIXE      BOI,     OR      VACA     MARINA. 

mammoth  dimensions, — being,  according  to  various  accounts,  from 
eight  to  seventeen  feet  long,  and  two  to  three  feet  thick  at  the 
widest  part, — its  eyes  are  extremely  small,  and  the  orifices  of  its 
ears  are  scarcely  larger  than  a  pin-head.  Its  skin  is  very  thick 
and  hard, — not  easily  penetrated  by  a  musket-ball.  The  Indians 
used  to  make  shields  of  it  for  their  defence  in  war.  Its  fat  and 
flesli  have  always  been  in  estimation.  It  served  the  natives  in 
place  of  beef  Not  having  salt  for  the  purpose,  they  used  to  pre- 
serve the  flesh  by  means  of  smoke. 

The  waters  of  the  Amazon  up  to  the  very  base  of  the  Andes  are 
inhabited  by  several  species  of  cetacea,  of  which  we  have  very 
scanty  information.  Mr.  Nesbitt — who  was  the  chief  engineer  on 
the  Peruvian  Government  steamei's  built  in  New  York  and  taken 
up  the  Amazon,  and  who  spent  a  number  of  years  on  the  King 
of  Waters  and  its  afliiients — has  kindly  fui-nished  me  several  items 
concerning  i\\Q  fauna  of  that  region  : — 


556  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

"  There  are  thousands  of  tlie  regular  sea-porpoise  in  the  Amazon  and  its  affluents, 
at  the  very  foot  of  the  xVndes.  Indeed,  I  have  seen  larger  schools  of  them  in  the 
Huallaga  than  I  ever  saw  in  the  Hudson,  and  of  enormous  dimensions.  Fish  of 
every  kind  is  very  abundant  in  all  the  rivers  and  lakes. 

"At  the  Falls  of  the  Rio  Madeira  the  traveller  will  halt  and  gaze  with  wonder 
at  the  vast  multitude  of  fish  of  all  kinds  and  sizes — from  the  huge  cow-fish  to  the 
little  sardine — struggling  with  might  and  main  to  ascend  the  foaming,  dashing 
current,  without  the  slightest  hope  of  success.  Presently,  some  monster  will  make 
a  dash  at  a  school  of  his  small  congeners,  when  suddenly  there  will  be  a  cloud 
of  all  sorts  and  sizes  leaping  in  the  air  and  trying  to  dodge  their  ravenous  pursuer. 
All  that  is  necessary  for  one  wishing  a  fish  is  to  take  his  canoe-paddle  and 
strike  right  or  left,  when  he  is  sure  to  hit:  he  cannot  possibly  miss.  Here  are 
almost  always  to  be  found  great  numbers  of  Indians  collecting,  salting,  and  drying 
fish.  The  peixe  boi  is  an  excellent  fish  for  food;  I  would  almost  as  soon  have  it  for 
the  table,  in  every  shape,  as  the  best  veal :  indeed,  it  might  be  palmed  upon  the 
unwary  for  that  article.  It  is  also  equal  to  the  best  dried  beef  for  chi2)ping,  in  the 
estimation  of  many. 

"In  this  connection  I  might  mention  the  Tartaruga,  or  turtle  of  the  Amazon: 
these  are  to  be  found  by  the  thousand  in  nearly  all  the  affluents, — especially  the 
Madeira,  Purus,  Napo,  Ucayali,  and  Huallaga.  At  the  season  for  them  to  deposit 
their  eggs  on  the  'praias,'  the  streams  will  be  fairly  speckled  with  them,  paddling 
their  clumsy  carcasses  up  to  their  native  sand-bar ;  for  it  is  positively  asserted  by  the 
natives  that  the  turtle  will  not  deposit  its  eggs  anywhere  except  where  it  was 
itself  hatched  out.  They  lay  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  eggs  every 
other  year.  Of  this  I  have  been  assured  by  persons  who  have  artificial  ponds  and 
keep  them  the  year  round  for  their  own  table.  September  and  October  are  the 
months  for  depositing  their  eggs." 

Dr.  Kidder  says : — 

"  The  turile-egg  butter  of  Amazonia  (manteiga  da  tartaruga)  is  a  substance  quite 
peculiar  to  this  quarter  of  the  globe.  At  certain  seasons  of  the  year  the  turtles 
appear  by  thousands  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  in  order  to  deposit  their  eggs  upon 
the  sand.  The  noise  of  their  shells  striking  against  each  other  in  the  rush  is  said 
to  be  sometimes  heard  at  a  great  distance.  Their  work  commences  at  dusk  and 
ends  with  the  following  dawn,  when  they  I'etire  to  the  water. 

"During  the  daytime  the  inhabitants  collect  these  eggs  and  pile  them  up  in  heaps 
resembling  the  stacks  of  cannon-balls  seen  at  a  navy-yard.  These  heaps  are  often 
twenty  feet  in  diameter,  and  of  a  corresponding  height.  While  yet  fresh  they  are 
thrown  into  wooden  canoes,  or  other  large  vessels,  and  broken  with  sticks  and 
stamped  fine  with  the  feet.  AVater  is  then  poured  on,  and  the  whole  is  exjjosed  to 
the  rays  of  the  sun.  The  heat  brings  the  oily  matter  of  the  eggs  to  the  surface, 
from  which  it  is  skimmed  off  with  cuyas  and  shells.  After  this  it  is  subjected 
to  a  moderate  heat  until  ready  for  use.  When  clarified,  it  has  the  appearance  of 
butter  that  has  been  melted.  It  always  retains  the  taste  of  fish-oil,  but  is  much 
prized  for  seasoning  by  the  Indians  and  those  who  are  accustomed  to  its  use.  It  is 
conveyed  to  market  in  earthen  jars.  In  earlier  times  it  was  estimated  that  nearly 
two  hundred  and  fifty  millions  of  turtles'  eggs  were  annually  destroyed  in  the  manu- 
facture of  this  manteiga.  Recently  the  number  is  less,  owing  to  the  gradual 
inroads  made  upon  the  turtle  race,  and  also  to  the  advance  of  civilization." 

But  the  Government  now  regulates  the  turtle-egg  harvest,  so  that 


The  Great  Skill  of  the  Caboclo  Archers.        557 

their  numbers  may  not  be  so  rapidly  diminished.  There  are  some 
extensive  beaches  AVhich  yield  two  thousand  pots  of  oil  annually: 
each  pot  contains  five  gallons,  and  requires  about  twenty-five  hun- 
dred eggs,  which  w^ould  give  five  million  ova  destroyed  in  one 
locality. 

Indeed,  it  is  a  wonder  how  the  turtles  can  ever  come  to  maturity. 
As  the}'-  issue  from  the  eggs  and  make  their  way  to  the  water, 
many  enemies  ai'e  awaiting  them.  Huge  alligators  swallow  them 
by  hundreds;  the  jaguars  feed  upon  them;*  eagles,  buzzards,  and 
great  wood-ibises  are  their  devourers;  and,  when  they  have  escaped 
these  land-foes,  many  ravenous  fishes  are  ready  to  seize  them  in 
the  stream.  They  are,  however,  so  prolific,  that  it  has  remained 
for  their  most  fatal  enemy,  man,  to  visibly  diminish  their  number. 

The  Indians  take  the  full-grown  turtle  in  a  net,  or  catch  him 
with  a  hook,  or  shoot  him  with  an  arrow.  The  latter  is  a  most 
ingenious  method,  and  requires  more  skill  than  to  shoot  a  bird  upon 
the  wing.  The  turtle  never  shows  its  back  above  the  Avater,  but, 
rising  to  breathe,  its  nostrils  only  are  protruded  above  the  surface : 
so  slight,  however,  is  the  rippling  that  none  but  the  Indian's  keen 
eyes  perceive  it.  If  he  shoot  an  ari'ow  obliquely  it  would  glance 
off  the  smooth  shell:  therefore  he  aims  into  the  air,  and  apparently 
"draws  a  bow  at  a  ventui^e;"  but  he  sends  up  his  missile  with  such 
wonderfully  accurate  judgment  that  it  describes  a  parabola  and 
descends  nearly  vertically  into  the  back  of  the  turtle.  (Wallace.) 
The  arrow-head  fits  loosely  to  the  shaft,  and  is  attached  to  it  by  a 
long  fine  cord  carefully  wound  around  the  wood,  so  that  when  the 
turtle  dives  the  barb  descends,  the  string  unwinds,  and  the  light 
shaft  forms  a  float  or  buoy,  which  the  Indian  secures,  and  by  the 
attached  cord  he  draws  the  prize  up  into  his  canoe.  Neai'ly  all 
the  turtles  sold  in  market  are  taken  in  this  manner,  and  the  little 

*  "  The  jaguar,  say  the  Indians,  is  the  most  cunning  animal  in  the  forest:  he  can 
imitate  the  voice  of  almost  every  bird  and  animal  so  exactly  as  to  draw  them 
toward  him  :  he  fishes  in  the  rivers,  lashing  the  water  with  his  tail  to  imitate  ftxlling 
fruit,  and,  when  the  fish  approach,  hooks  them  up  with  his  claws.  He  catches  and 
eats  turtles,  and  I  have  myself  found  the  unbroken  shells,  which  he  has  completely 
cleaned  out  with  his  paws:  he  even  attacks  the  cow-fish  in  its  own  element,  and  an 
(!ye-witness  assured  me  that  he  had  watched  one  dragging  out  of  the  water  this 
bulky  animal,  weighing  as  much  as  a  large  ox." — Wallace 


558 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


square  vertical  hole  made  by  the  arrow-head  may  generally  be  seen 
in  the  shell. 

In  connection  ^yith  this  might  be  mentioned  the  archery  of  some 
of  the  civilized  Indians  in  various  portions  of  the  Empire.  A  large 
and  strong  bow  is  bent  by  their  legs.  In  this  way  they  are  able  to 
shoot  game  at  a  great  distance. 


CABOCLO     ARCHERS. 


As  to  the  birds  of  the  Amazon,  they  are  everywhere  brilliant 
beyond  birds  in  any  other  portion  of  the  world.  Some,  like  the 
dancing  cock  of  the  rock,  and  the  curious  and  little-known  umbrella- 
bird,  are  very  difficult  to  obtain.     I  can  only  mention  the  latter. 

This  singular  bird  is  about  the  size  of  a  raven,  and  is  of  a  similar 
colorj  but  its  feathers  have  a  more  scaly  appearance,  from  being 
margined  with  a  different  shade  of  glossy  blue.  On  its  head  it 
bears  a  crest  different  from  that  of  any  other  bird.  It  is  formed 
of  feathers  more  than  two  inches  long,  very  thickly  set,  and  with 
hair}''  plumes  cui'ving  over  at  the  end.  These  can  be  laid  back  so 
as  to  be  hardly  visible,  or  can  be  erected  and  spread  out  on  every 
side,  forming,  as  has  been  remarked,  '' a  hemispherical,  or  rather 
a  hemi-ellifjsoidal,  dome,  completely  covering  the  head,  and  even 
reaching  beyond  the  point  of  the  beak."  It  inhabits  the  flooded 
islands  of  the  Eio  Negi'O  and  the  Solimoes,  never  apj)earing  on  tho 


The  Umbrella-Bird. 


559 


mainland.  It  feeds  on  fruits,  and  utters  a  loud,  hoarse  cry,  like 
Bume  deep  musical  instrument, — whence  its  Indian  name,  Uera- 
mimbe,  "trumpet-bird." 

And  what  can  be  said  of  the  countless  tribes  of  insects  that 
swarm  in  the  Amazonian 
forests  ?  My  first  ac- 
quaintance with  the  rich 
livino;  a*ems  of  Brazil  was 
made  at  the  retired  resi- 
dence of  Mr.  G.,  in  the 
lovely  Larangeiras  at  Eio 
de  Janeiro,  and  after- 
ward in  various  parts  of 
the  Emj)ire.  I  did  not 
cease  to  wonder  at  the 
innumerable  and  bril- 
liant hosts  of  Lepidop- 
tera,  Coleoptera,  Heli-co- 
niida?,  &c.  &c.  It  would 
require  volumes  to  note 
them.  In  the  vicinity 
of  Para  itself  there  is 
ample  opportunity  for 
the  study  of  nature. 

Dr.  Kidder  visited  the 
American  ricc-mills  situated  twelve  miles  distant  from  the  city, 
and  thus  describes  the  excursion  : — 


THE      UMBREL  LA-BI  R  0. 


"  Our  way  led  through  a  deep,  unbroken  forest,  of  a  density  and  a  magnitude 
of  which  I  had,  before  penetrating  it,  but  a  faint  conception.  Notwithstanding  this 
is  one  of  the  most  public  roads  leading  to  or  from  the  city,  yet  it  is  only  for  a  short 
distance  passable  for  carriages.  Indeed,  the  branches  of  trees  are  not  unfrequeutly 
in  the  way  of  the  rider  on  horseback.  ■  A  negro  is  sent  through  the  path  periodically 
with  a  sabre  to  clip  the  increasing  foliage  and  branches  before  they  become  too 
formidable.  Thus  the  road  is  kept  open  and  pleasant.  Notwithstanding  the  heat 
of  the  sun  in  these  regions  at  noonday,  and  the  danger  of  too  much  exposure  to 
its  rays,  an  agreeable  coolness  always  pervades  those  retreats  of  an  Amazonian 
forest,  whose  lofty  and  umbrageous  canopy  is  almost  impenetrable.  The  brilliancy 
of  the  sun's  glare  is  mellowed  by  innumerable  reflections  upon  the  polished  surface 
of  the  leaves.  Many  of  the  trees  are  remarkably  straight  and  very  tall.  Some 
of  them  are  decked  from  top  to  bottom  with  splendid  flowers  and  parasites,  while 


560  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians, 

the  trunks  and  boughs  of  nearly  all  are  interlaced  with  innumerable  runners  and 
creeping  vines. 

"These  plants  form  a  singular  feature  of  the  more  fertile  regions  of  Brazil.  But 
it  is  on  the  boi'ders  of  the  Amazon  that  they  appear  in  their  greatest  strength  and 
luxuriance.  They  twist  around  the  trees,  climbing  up  to  their  tops,  then  grow 
down  to  the  ground,  and,  taking  root,  spring  up  again  and  cross  from  bough  to 
bough  and  from  tree  to  tree,  wherever  the  wind  carries  their  limber  shoots,  till  the 
whole  woods  are  hung  with  their  garlanding.  This  vegetable  cordage  is  sometimes 
so  closely  interwoven  that  it  has  the  appearance  of  network,  which  neither  birds 
nor  beasts  can  easily  pass  through.  Some  of  the  stems  are  as  thick  as  a  man's 
arm. .  They  are  round  or  square,  and  sometimes  triangular,  and  eveu  pentangular. 
They  grow  in  knots  and  screws,  and,  indeed,  in  every  possible  contortion  to  which 
they  may  be  bent.  To  break  them  is  impossible.  Sometimes  they  kill  the  tree 
which  supports  them,  and  occasionally  remain  standing  erect,  like  a  twisted  column, 
after  the  trunk  which  they  have  strangled  has  mouldered  within  their  involutions. 
Monkeys  delight  to  play  their  gambols  upon  this  wild  rigging ;  but  they  are  now 
scarce  in  the  neighborhood  of  Para.  Occasionally  their  chatter  is  heard  at  a  dis- 
tance, mingled  with  the  shrill  cries  of  birds  ;  but  generally  a  deep  stillness  prevails, 
adding  grandeur  to  the  native  majesty  of  these  forests. 

********** 

"On  our  route  to  Maguary,  I  was  surprised  to  see  lands  which  ten  or  twelve 
years  ago  had  been  planted  with  sugarcane  now  entirely  overgrown  with  trees  of 
no  insignificant  dimensions.  Only  a  few  acres  immediately  around  the  engenho  had 
been  kept  free  from  these  encroachments.  Here  was  located  the  first  mill  for 
cleaning  rice  ever  built  in  the  vicinity  of  Pard.  It  was  established  by  North 
American  enterprise.  A  small  water-power  existed  on  the  site  ;  but,  after  the  mills 
were  constructed,  it  was  found  that  this  power  was  insufficient  in  the  dry  season  : 
consequently,  a  steam-engine  of  sixteen  horse-power  was  imported  from  the  United 
States,  and  has  been  made  to  do  good  service.  The  steam-power  was  kept  in  action 
constantly,  and,  at  proper  seasons,  the  water-power  also.  Both  were  inadequate 
to  the  amount  of  business  that  offered.  Several  American  mechanics  were  em- 
ployed at  this  establishment,  which,  small  as  it  is,  compares  favorably  with  any 
mechanical  establishment  in  the  whole  country.  A  stream  connects  this  engenho 
with  the  great  river,  and  thus  furnishes  cheap  conveyance  for  cargoes  to  and 
from  the  city." 

My  colleague  also  had  some  experience  at  Pani  not  quite  so 

agreeable  as  riding  through  Amazonian  forests  : — 

"Soon  after  my  arrival,  in  company  of  the  United  States  Consul,  I  waited  on 
Senhor  Franco,  the  president  of  the  province,  to  whom  I  bore  a  letter  of  commenda- 
tion. This  individual  had  formerly  been  clerk  in  one  of  the  English  mercantile 
houses  in  Pard,  and  was  subsequently  educated  as  a  beneficiary  of  the  province, 
of  which  he  had  now  become  the  chief  magistrate.  He  i*eceived  us  with  civility, 
and  in  person  conducted  us  through  the  palace.  I  found  that  building  one  of  the 
best  of  the  kind  in  the  Empire.  It  was  built,  together  with  the  cathedral  and  some 
of  the  churches,  in  the  days  of  that  talented  but  ambitious  prime  minister  of  Por- 
tugal, the  Marquis  of  Pombal,  who 'cherished  the  splendid  idea  of  having  the  throne 
of  Portugal  and  all  her  dominions  transferred  from  the  banks  of  the  Tagus  to  those 
of  the  Amazon.  This  circumstance  accounts  for  the  ample  size  and  magnificent 
structure  of  these  buildings  in  a  town  of  moderate  extent. 


The  "Pastoral"  of  the  Bishop.  561 

"At  a  proper  time  I  waited  on  the  juiz  de  direito, — the  chief  officer  of  the  police, 
— to  exhibit  my  passport  and  obtain  a  license  of  residence  in  the  very  loyal  and 
heroic  city  of  Par4  and  the  province  of  which  it  was  the  capital.  No  embarrass- 
ments were  put  in  my  way,  and  no  detention  occurred.  I  obtained  the  requisite 
license,  and  kept  it  until  I  had  occasion  to  obtain  a  new  passport  on  my  departui-e. 
Nevertheless,  it  appeared  at  one  period  that  my  unmolested  residence  in  the  city 
■was  very  much  in  jeopardy. 

"The  old  Bishop  of  Para  seemed  to  have  caught  the  contagion  of  alarm  from  his 
colleague  in  Maranham  ;  and  both  these  prelates — yielding  more  than  their  sober 
judgment  should  have  allowed  them  to  certain  unfounded  and  malicious  repre- 
sentations sent  them  from  some  quarter — wrote  to  Senhor  Franco  concerning  me 
as  a  very  dangerous  person,  who  ought  not  to  be  suffered  to  laud  in  the  province. 
The  president  probably  satisfied  himself  on  that  point  during  my  visit  to  him ;  and 
although  he  owed  his  political  elevation  very  much  to  his  ecclesiastical  patrons,  yet 
he  managed  to  satisfy  their  apprehensions  by  a  very  short  and  formal  correspond- 
ence with  the  American  Consul.  No  person  interfered  with  me  or  any  of  uiy  pur- 
suits from  first  to  last." 

The  see  of  Para  is  certainly  still  very  much  endangered  by  the 
Bible,  if  we  may  judge  from  the  "pastoral"  issued  in  the  Diario  do 
Commercio  (of  the  8th  of  April,  1857)  by  Dom  Jose  Affonso  de  Moraes 
Torres,  "by  the  grace  of  God  and  of  the  Holy  Apostolical  See, 
Bishop  of  Griio  Para."  The  good  bishop  seems  to  be  terribly'  exer- 
cised by  what  he  terms  uma  Sociedade  Biblica  ultimamente  creada 
com  0  noma  de  AlUanga  Christa,  (a  Bible.  Society  lately  created 
under  the  name  of  the  Christian  Alliance.)  He  saj^s  that  its 
emissaries  circulate  books,  one  of  which  —  a  catechism — he  has 
read,  and  that  in  it  he  "encounters  a  doctrine  entirely  opposed  to 
the  belief  of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ."  ,That  which  particularly 
stirs  up  his  ire  is  that  the  little  book  teaches  that  the  worship  of 
images  is  idolatry.  He  then  insists  that  such  worship  is  altogether 
right,  only  that  the  internal  operation  of  the  mind  is  not  exactly 
the  same  as  when  worshipping  God.  He  not  only  hurls  his  invec- 
tives at  the  little  book  and  at  heretics,  but  proves  from  Scripture 
that  we  can  be  doing  God's  service  in  adoring  his  creatures.  He 
adduces,  with  decided  emphasis,  that  Abraham  worshipped  the 
angels  and  adored  the  sons  of  Heth  (!)  \_adorou  os  filhos  de  Heth, 
Gen.  xxiii.  7.] 

The  true  head  of  offence  in  the  little  book  is  that  it  contains 
unmutilated  the  Ten  Commandments.  I  have  in  my  possession  the 
Ten  Commandments  as  they  are  printed  in  all  the  books  of  religious 
instruction  in  Portugal  and  in  some  parts  of  Brazil,  and  the  second 
commandment  is  entirely  omitted ;  and,  in  order  to  make  up  the 

36 


562  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

Decalogue,  the  tenth  commandment  is  thus  divided.  "Thou  shalt 
not  covet  thy  neighbor's  house"  figures  as  the  ninth,  and  "Thou 
shalt  not  covet  thj'  neighbor's  wife,"  &c.  &c.,  "nor  any  thing  that, 
is  thy  neighbor's,"  is  the  tenth. 

The  state  of  religion  at  Para  is  by  no  means  flattering,  and  the 
heart  is  as  far  from  being  reached  by  empty  forms  and  gorgeous 
pageants  on  the  Amazon  as  it  is  on  the  Tiber  or  the  Danube.  The 
grand  annual  festival  of  Nazare  always  attracts  from  the  city  an 
immense  crowd,  who  go  not  for  religious  edification,  but  for  the. 
nine  days'  feasting,  dancing,  fireworks,  and  gaming. 

rJeneral  reflections  upon  the  character  and  tendency  of  such  a 
scene  of  festivities — so  absorbing  to  a  whole  community  and  so 
long  continued — seem  unnecessary.  If  it  had  no  religious  preten- 
sions it  would  be  less  exceptionable;  but  for  a  people  to  be  made 
to  think  themselves  doing  God's  service  while  mingling  in  such 
amusements  and  follies  is  painfull}^  lamentable. 

Note  for  1SG6. — The  city  of  Pani  Las  returned  to  its  former  size,  the  population 
now  being  as  great  (if  not  greater)  as  it  was  before  the  disastrous  days  of  1835- 
38.  In  18G2  the  junior  author  could  see  but  few  traces  of  the  rebellion  in  the 
condition  of  the  buildings,  and,  though  the  elderly  people  had  ineffaceable  recol- 
lections of  the  revolt  and  scenes  of  bloodshed,  the  great  majority  of  the  popula- 
tion have  grown  up  without  sad  souvenirs.  Many  improvements  have  taken  place. 
Some  of  the  most  important  in  a  material  point  of  view  are  those  which  have 
been  brought  about  by  Sr.  Pimento  Bueno,  the  gerente  of  the  Amazonian  Naviga- 
tion Company.  The  houses  of  James  Bishop  &  Co.  (J.  C.  Bond),  H.  K.  Corning  &  Co. 
(Mr.  Moran),  and  Burdett  &  Everett  (Mr.  Pond),  are  energetic  representatives  of 
American  interests  at  Pard.  President  Brusque,  who  was  President  of  the  province 
of  Paril  in  1861,  '62,  and  '63,  took  the  deepest  interest  in  publishing  the  material  re- 
sources of  the  province  of  Para,  and  his  Relalorios  of  1862-63  are  full  of  the  most 
valuable  information.  The  latest  and  most  reliable  English  book  on  the  Amazon 
is  the  "  Naturalist  on  the  Amazon,"  by  Henry  Bates,  Esq.,  London,  1863.  This 
is  a  most  charming  and  valuable  work.  Mr.  B.  passed  nearly  ten  years  in  that 
equatorial  region,  and  has  given  the  world  many  important  facts  concerning  the 
great  valley,  aside  from  information  in  regard  to  its  natural  history.  Only  one 
drawback  to  many  is  to  be  found,  in  his  "Darwinian"  views;  but  they  are  "put" 
Bo  modestly,  and  his  investigations  are  so  much  better  than  his  theory,  that  one 
becomes  only  interested  in  the  great  theme  of  his  book,  "the  King  of  Waters." 


CHAPTEE  XXVII. 

AMAZONAS ITS     DISCOVEHT EL    DORADO — GONCALO     PIZABBO HIS     EXPEDITION 

CRUELTIES SUFFERINGS DESERTION     OF     OBELLANA HIS     DESCENT     OF     THE 

RIVER FABLE    OF    THE    AMAZONS FATE    OF     THE    ADVENTURER NAME    OF    THE 

RIVER — 'SETTLEMENT    OF    THE  COUNTRY SUCCESSIVE    EXPEDITIONS    UP  AND    DOWN 

THE     AMAZON SUFFERINGS     OF     MADAME     GODIN PRESENT     STATE — VICTORIA 

REGIA STEAM-NAVIGATION EFFECTS    OF     HERNDON    AND    GIBBON'S     REPORT 

PERUVIAN    STEAMERS THE    FUTURE    PROSPECTS    OF    THE    AMAZON. 

AiMAZONAS  (or  Alto  Amazonas)  is  the  most  northern  province  of 
Brazil.  My  colleague  thus  writes  in  regard  to  the  history  of  this 
vast  and  almost-unknown  division  of  the  Empire: — 

"No  portion  of  the  earth  involves  a  greater  degree  of  physical  interest.  Its 
central  position  upon  the  equator,  its  vast  extent,  its  unlimited  resources,  its  mam- 
moth rivers,  and  the  romance  that  still  lingers  in  its  name  and  history,  are  all 
peculiar.  Three  hundred  years  have  elapsed  since  this  region  was  discovered;  but 
down  to  the  present  day  two-thirds  of  it  remains  uncivilized  and  almost  unex- 
plored. 

"Indeed,  few  persons,  save  the  Indians,  and  the  slave-huuters  who  once  pursued 
them,  have  even  penetrated  its  remote  sections,  or  seen  any  parts  of  it  save  the 
banks  of  navigable  rivers.  The  circumstances  of  its  discovery  will  ever  be  con- 
sidered remarkable.  It  was  about  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century  when  the 
fixble  of  El  Dorado  filled  the  public  mind  of  Europe.  The  existence  of  a  New 
World  was  then  fully  demonstrated,  and  the  leaven  of  desire  for  its  undeveloped 
treasures  had  spread  from  court  to  camp,  from  princes  to  beggars,  until  the  whole 
mass  of  society  was  in  a  ferment.  Avarice,  personified  under  the  garb  of  adven- 
ture, bestrode  the  ocean.  Scarcely  did  her  footsteps  touch  the  shores  of  the  New 
AVorld,  ere  they  were  bathed  in  blood.  She  commenced  her  work  of  desolation 
in  the  fair  islands  of  the  Caribbean.  She  caused  the  din  of  arms  to  resound  in 
the  primeval  forests  and  aboriginal  cities  of  the  continent.  She  scaled  the 
Cordilleras,  and  laid  waste  savannahs  upon  both  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific 
shores. 

"Among  the  bloodthirsty  and  cruel  men  who  stood  forth  as  leaders  in  the  work 
of  conquest  and  plunder,  Gon$alo  Pizarro,  the  brother  and  associate  of  the  con- 
queror of  Peru,  was  second  to  few,  if  any.  His  talents  may  have  been  less,  but 
his  daring  and  cruelty  were  greater.  In  1.541,  this  adventurer  set  out  from  Quito, 
with  an  army  of  three  hundred  soldiers,  and  four  thousand  Indians  to  serve  them 
as  bearers  of  burdens,  with  the  design  of  discovering  the  land  of  gold.     This  waf 

563 


564  Brazil  and  the  Brazilian-s. 

an  imaginary  kingdom,  shaped  out  of  tlie  half-comprehended  tales  of  the  persecuted 
Indians  and  exaggerated  by  the  most  extravagant  fancies. 

"  This  fabulous  kingdom  received  a  name  IVom  the  fashion  of  its  monarch,  who 
was  said,  in  order  to  wear  a  more  magnificent  attire  than  any  other  potentate  in 
the  world,  to  put  on  a  daily  coating  of  gold-dust.  His  body  was  anointed  every 
morning  with  a  costly  and  fragrant  gum,  to  which  the  gold-dust  adhered  when 
blown  over  him  by  a  tube.  In  this  barbaric  attire  the  Spaniards  denominated  him 
El  Dorado, — the  Gilded  King.  No  fictions  concerning  this  monarch  or  his  kingdom 
were  too  extravagant  for  credence.  He  was  generally  located  in  the  grand  city  of 
Manoa,  in  which  no  fewer  than  three  thousand  workmen  were  employed  in  the  sil- 
versmiths' street.  The  columns  of  his  palace  were  described  as  of  porphyry  and 
alabaster :  the  throne  was  ivory,  and  the  steps  leading  to  it  were  of  gold.  Others 
built  the  palace  of  white  stone,  and  ornamented  it  with  golden  suns  and  moons  of 
silver,  while  living  lions,  fastened  by  chains  of  gold,  guarded  its  entrance.  With 
day-dreams  like  these  dancing  before  the  minds  of  commanders  and  soldiers,  the 
army  of  Pizarro  set  out,  cherishing  the  highest  anticipations. 

"  In  proceeding  eastward  from  Quito,  they  were  obliged  to  cut  their  way  through 
forests,  to  climb  mountains,  and  to  contend  with  hostile  tribes  of  Indians.  Every 
tribe  with  which  they  met  was  interrogated  about  El  Dorado,  and  when  unable  to 
give  any  intelligence  of  it  they  were  put  to  torture :  some  were  even  burned  alive, 
and  others  were  torn  to  pieces  by  bloodhounds,  which  the  Spaniards  had  trained  to 
feed  on  human  flesh. 

"The  eflTects  of  this  dreadful  cruelty  returned  upon  the  heads  of  its  perpetrators 
with  a  terrible  vengeance.  As  the  tidings  of  their  approach  spread  from  tribe  to 
tribe,  the  poor  natives  learned  to  flatter  their  hopes  and  send  them  along.  The 
rains  came  on,  and,  lasting  for  months,  rotted  the  garments  from  the  bodies  of  the 
soldiers,  who  could  neither  make  nor  find  a  shelter.  At  length  their  provisions 
were  exhausted,  and  they  began  to  feed  upon  their  dogs.  The  sick  multiplied,  so 
that  they  were  obliged  to  build  a  brigantine  in  which  to  carry  them.  This  was  a 
herculean  task  for  soldiers  to  perform,  especially  without  the  requisite  implements. 
Before  it  was  accomplished  they  had  to  slaughter  their  horses  for  food.  Their 
troubles  continued  and  even  increased :  still,  with  death  staring  them  in  the  face, 
Pizarro  continued  to  seize  prisoners,  and  put  them  in  irons  when  he  supposed  they 
desired  to  escape.  When  they  at  length  stood  upon  the  banks  of  the  river  Napo, 
not  less  than  one  thousand  of  the  Peruvians  had  perished. 

"  The  commander  now  heard  of  a  larger  river  into  which  this  emptied,  and  was 
told  that  the  country  surrounding  the  junction  was  fertile  and  abounding  in  pro- 
visions. He  therefore  determined  to  despatch  the  vessel  with  fifty  men  to  procure 
supplies  for  the  rest.  Francisco  de  Orellana,  a  knight  of  Truxiilo,  was  put  in  com- 
mand of  this  expedition.  The  stream  carried  them  rapidly  downward  through  an 
uninhabited  and  desert  country.  When  they  had  descended  about  three  hundred 
miles,  the  question  was  started  whether  they  should  not  abandon  the  idea  of  return- 
ing. They  had  not  found  food  sufficient  for  themselves  ;  and  how  could  they  succor 
the  army  ?  Besides,  how  could  they  ascend  against  the  current  in  their  enfeebled 
state?  It  would  only  be  to  perish  with  the  rest.  They  might  as  well  continue 
their  descent,  for  '  rivers  to  the  ocean  run,'  and  there  was  some  chance  that  they 
might  in  this  way  not  only  save  their  lives  but  also  immortalize  their  names  by  new 
discoveries.  Orellana  urged  these  considerations  with  so  much  plausibility,  that 
all  consented  save  two, — a  Dominican  friar  and  a  young  knight  of  Badajoz,  who  con- 
tended against  the  plan  as  treacherous  and  cruel.     Orellana  disposed  of  this  objec- 


I 


The  Expedition  of  Orellana.  565 

tion  by  setting  the  knight  on  shore,  to  perish  or  return  to  the  army  as  he  best  could. 
The  friar  became  an  easy  convert  to  the  new  scheme,  and  thenceforward  took  a  pro- 
minent part  in  it.  Orellana  renounced  the  commission  he  had  received  from 
Pizarro,  and  received  an  election  from  his  men  as  their  commander,  so  that  he  might 
make  discoveries  in  his  own  name,  and  not  under  delegated  authority  in  the  name 
of  another. 

"It  was  on  the  last  day  of  December,  1541,  that  this  adventurous  voyage  was 
commenced,  after  mass  had  been  said  by  the  Dominican.  Their  prospects  were 
gloomy  enough.  Their  stock  of  provisions  was  wholly  exhausted,  and  they  were 
forced  to  boil  the  soles  of  their  shoes  and  their  leathern  girdles,  in  hope  of  deriving 
nourishment  from  them. 

"It  also  became  necessary  to  build  a  better  vessel.  This  being  accomplished 
with  great  difficulty  and  delay,  they  resumed  their  voyage.  Sometimes  they  met 
with  a  kind  reception  from  the  Indians,  but  more  generally  they  had  to  fight  their 
way  with  great  losses  and  imminent  danger  of  complete  destruction. 

"  It  was  in  the  month  of  June  that,  during  a  battle  with  a  hostile  tribe,  they  dis- 
covered what  they  reported  to  be  Amazons.  Friar  Gaspar,  the  Dominican,  affirms 
that  ten  or  twelve  of  these  women  fought  at  the  head  of  the  tribe  which  was  subject 
to  their  authority.  He  described  them  as  very  tall  and  large-limbed,  having  a  white 
complexion,  and  long  hair  plaited  and  banded  around  their  head.  Their  only  article 
of  dress  was  a  cincture,  but  they  were  armed  with  bows  and  arrows.  The  men 
fought  desperately,  because,  if  they  deserted,  they  would  be  beaten  to  death  by 
these  female  tyrants ;  but,  when  the  Spaniards  had  slain  some  seven  or  eight  of  the 
latter,  the  Indians  fled.  These  stories  were  generally  believed  to  have  been  delibe- 
rate falsehoods  fabricated  with  the  idea  of  giving  consequence  to  the  voyage.  The 
existence,  however,  of  a  powerful  tribe  of  Amazons  in  that  portion  of  South  Ame- 
rica was  a  subject  of  deliberate  inquiry  and  grave  discussion  for  at  least  two  cen- 
turies. Condamine  and  others  favored  the  opinion  that  there  had  been  such  a 
people,  of  which  some  remnants  remained  till  about  the  time  of  Orellana,  soon  afterr 
which  they  became  extinct  by  amalgamation  with  surrounding  tribes.  The  Spanish 
historian  Herrera  has  given  detailed  accounts  of  the  adventures  of  Orellana,  com- 
piled from  his  own  statements,  endorsed  by  his  veracious  chronicler.  Friar  Gaspar. 
They  contain,  however,  but  little  authentic  information.  But,  strange  as  it  may 
seem,  modern  investigation  (as  will  be  seen  hereafter)  has  proved  that  the  veracious 
frade  apparently  spoke  the  truth. 

"  In  the  course  of  seven  months  they  reached  the  ocean.  After  some  repairs 
made  upon  their  vessels,  they  sailed  out  of  the  great  river  during  the  month  of 
August,  and  on  the  11th  of  September  they  made  the  island  of  Cubagua.  Orellana 
proceeded  thence  to  Spain,  to  give  an  account  of  his  discoveries  in  person. 

"The  excuse  he  presented  for  deserting  Pizarro  was  accepted,  and,  on  solicita- 
tion, he  received  a  grant  of  the  conquest  of  the  regions  he  had  discovered.  He 
had  but  little  difficulty  in  raising  funds  or  enlisting  adventurers  for  his  expedition. 
It,  however,  proved  disastrous.  His  fleet  arrived  out  in  1544,  but,  amid  the  labyrinth 
of  channels  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  it  was  impossible  to  find  the  main  branch. 
After  a  month  or  two  spent  in  beating  about,  without  being  able  to  ascend  the  river 
or  to  accomplish  any  important  object,  Orellana  succumbed  to  his  misfortunes,  and, 
like  many  of  his  men,  sickened  and  died.  He  was  the  first  to  descend  the  embouch- 
ment  of  the  Amazon  ;  but  Pinzon  is  said  to  have  discovered  the  mighty  current  in  1500. 

"  Mr.  Southey  had  so  much  respect  for  his  memory,  that  he  made  an  effort  in  his 
histc  ry  to  restore  the  name  of  Orellana  to  the  great  river.     He  discarded  Maranon, 


566  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

as  having  too  much  resemblance  to  Maranham,*  and  Amazon,  as  being  founded 
upon  fiction  and  at  the  same  time  inconvenient.  Accordingly,  in  his  map,  and  in 
all  his  references  to  the  great  river,  he  denominates  it  Orellana. 

"  This  decision  of  the  poet-laureate  of  Great  Britain  has  not  proved  authoritative 
in  Brazil.  0  Amazonas  is  the  universal  appellation  of  the  great  river  among  those 
who  float  upon  its  waters  and  who  live  upon  its  banks,  and  is  now  given  to  the  new 
province  whose  capital  is  the  Barra  do  Rio  Negro. 

"  Para,  the  aboriginal  name  of  this  river,  was  more  appropriate  than  any  other. 
It  signifies  'the  father  of  waters.'  The  term  '  Parii  River'  designates  the  soutliern, 
in  opposition  to  the  northern,  principal  mouth  of  the  Amazon,  and  also  the  province 
through  which  the  mighty  river  finds  the  ocean." 

The  name  Amazonas  has  been  stated  by  some  to  be  derived  from 
the  Indian  word  A?nassona, — a  term,  it  is  pretended,  applied  to  the 
wonderful  phenomenon  of  a  high  tide  of  these  rivers  two  days 
before  and  two  daj-s  after  full-moon,  which  extends  to  the  very 
confluence  of  the  Madeira.  As  this  tide  is  very  destructive  to 
small  craft,  the  natives  called  it  Amassona,  ("boat-breaker.")  This 
story,  it  seems  to  me,  has  no  foundation  whatever.  I  do  not  believe 
Amassona  to  be  an  aboriginal  term ;  for  the  Portuguese  substantive 
amds  means  "a  heap,"  and  the  simple  verb  amassar  means  "to 
knead,"  "to  bruise,"  &c.;  while  the  retlex  verb  ainassar-se  means 
"  to  heap  up  itself" 

The  origin  of  the  name  and  the  mystery  concerning  the  female 
warriors,  I  think,  has  been  solved,  within  the  last  few  years,  by  the 
intrepid  Mr.  Wallace,  who  left  the  beaten  track, — the  bod  of  the 
great  river, — and  in  the  remotest  haunts  of  the  wild  man,  by  his 
persevering  patience  and  his  knowledge  of  the  Lingoa  Qeral,  has 
given  much  information  to  the  world  concerning  the  little-known 
interior. 

I  believe  it  will  now  be  found  that,  although  the  early  monkish 
chroniclers  of  the  New  World  often  used  their  imaginations  instead 
of  being  content  with  facts,  they  were  in  this  case  not  so  cul])able 
as  man}^  have  supposed.  They  really  believed  that  they  had  fought 
with  female  warriors,  and  certainly  appearances  were  in  favor  of 
their  truthfulness.  Mr.  Wallace,  I  think,  conclusively  shows  that 
Friar  Gaspar  and  his  companions  saw  Indian  male  warriors  who 
were  attired  in  habiliments  such  as  Europeans  would    attribute 

*  Both  words  have  evidently  a  common  origin,  being  derived  from  the  Portuguese 
mare,  "the  sea,"  and  nao,  "not," — not. the  sea,  as  a  great  river  near  its  mouth 
appears  to  be. 


Origin  of  the  Name  Eio  Amazonas.  567 

to  woman.  Mr.  Wallace  visited  numerous  tribes  on  the  upper 
affluents  of  the  Amazon,  and,  in  speaking  of  their  language,  habits 
of  dress,  and  other  characteristics,  he  says, — 

"  The  use  of  ornaments  and  trinkets  of  various  kinds  is  almost  confined  to  the 
men.  The  women  wear  a  bracelet  on  the  wrists,  but  no  necklace,  or  any  comb  in 
the  hair :  they  have  a  garter  below  the  knee,  worn  tight  from  infancy,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  swelling  out  the  calf,  which  they  consider  a  great  beauty.  While  dancing 
in  their  festivals,  the  women  wear  a  small  tanga,  or  apron,  made  of  beads  prettily 
arranged :  it  is  never  worn  at  any  other  time,  and  immediately  the  dance  is  over 
it  is  taken  off. 

"The  men,  on  the  other  hand,  have  the  hair  carefully  parted  and  combed  on 
each  side  and  tied  in  a  queue  behind.  In  the  young  men  it  hangs  in  long  locks 
down  their  necks,  and,  with  the  comb,  which  is  invariably  carried  stuck  on  the  top 
of  the  head,  gives  to  them  a  most  feminine  appearance :  this  is  increased  by  the 
large  necklaces  and  bracelets  of  beads  and  the  careful  extirpation  of  every  symptom 
of  beard.  Taking  these  circumstances  into  consideration,  I  am  strongly  of  opinion 
that  the  story  of  the  Amazons  has  arisen  from  these  feminine-looking  warriors  en- 
countered by  the  early  voyagers.  I  am  inclined  to  this  belief  from  the  effect  they 
first  produced  on  myself,  when  it  was  only  by  close  examination  that  I  found  they 
were  men ;  and,  were  the  front  parts  of  their  bodies  and  their  breasts  covered  with 
shields  such  as  they  always  use,  I  am  convinced  any  person  seeing  them  for  the 
first  time  would  conclude  they  were  women.  We  have  only,  therefore,  to  suppose 
that  tribes  having  similar  customs  to  those  now  existing  on  the  river  Uaupes  in- 
habited the  regions  where  the  Amazons  were  reported  to  have  been  seen,  and  we 
have  a  rational  explanation  of  what  has  so  much  puzzled  all  geographers.  The 
only  objection  to  this  explanation  is,  that  traditions  are  said  to  exist  among  the 
natives,  of  '  a  nation  of  women  without  husbands.'  Of  this  tradition  I  was  myself 
unable  to  obtain  any  trace,  and  I  can  easily  imagine  it  entirely  to  have  arisen  from 
the  suggestions  and  inquiries  of  Europeans  themselves.  When  the  story  of  the 
Amazons  was  first  made  known,  it  became,  of  course,  a  point  with  all  future  tra- 
vellers to  verify  it,  or,  if  possible,  to  get  a  glimpse  of  these  warlike  ladies.  The 
Indians  must  no  doubt  have  been  overwhelmed  with  questions  and  suggestions 
about  them,  and  they,  thinking  that  the  white  men  must  know  best,  would  transmit 
to  their  descendants  and  families  the  idea  that  such  a  nation  did  exist  in  some  dis- 
tant part  of  the  country.  Succeeding  travellers,  finding  traces  of  this  idea  among 
the  Indians,  would  take  it  as  a  proof  of  the  existence  of  the  Amazons,  instead  of 
being  merely  the  effect  of  a  mistake  at  first,  which  had  been  unknowingly  spread 
by  preceding  travellers  seeking  to  obtain  some  information  on  the  subject. 

"  In  my  communications  and  inquiries  among  the  Indians  on  various  matters,  I 
have  always  found  the  greatest  caution  necessary  to  prevent  one's  arriving  at  wrong 
conclusions.  They  are  always  apt  to  affirm  that  which  they  see  you  wish  to  be- 
lieve, and,  when  they  do  not  at  all  comprehend  your  question,  will  unhesitatingly 
answer,  'Yes.'  " 

Having  thus  explained  the  origin  of  the  word  Amazonas,  we  will 

a<iain  turn  to  the  historic  sketch  of  Dr.  Kidder : — 

"About  seventy  years  after  the  events  (the  voyage  of  Orellana)  above  narrated, 
the  Portuguese  began  to  settle  in  Pari,  advancing  from  Maranham.  In  1616,  Fran- 
cisco Cadeira,  the  first  chief-captain,  laid  the  foundations  of  the  present  city  of  Par^ 


568  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

under  the  protection  of  Nossa  Senhora  de  Belem.  In  1637,  another  party  descended 
the  Amazon  from  Quito.  It  was  composed  of  two  Franciscan  friars  and  six  sol- 
diers, who  had  been  sent  on  a  mission  to  the  Indians  upon  the  frontiers  of  Peru. 
The  mission  proved  unsuccessful.  Some  of  the  missionaries  grew  weary  and  re- 
turned ;  othei'S  persisted  until  the  savages  attacked  and  murdered  the  commander 
of  their  escort  of  soldiers,  when  all  dispersed.  Those  who  were  disheartened  at  the 
prospect  of  the  dreadful  journey  back  to  Quito  committed  themselves  to  the  waters, 
as  Orellana  had  done  nearly  a  century  before.  They  reached  Belem  in  safety,  but 
so  stupefied  with  fear  as  to  be  unable  tg  give  any  satisfactory  account  of  what  they 
had  seen.  It  was  enough  for  them  to  have  escaped  from  the  horrid  cannibals 
through  whose  midst  they  had  passed. 

"In  the  same  year,  the  first  expedition  for  the  ascent  of  the  Amazon  was 
.organized.  It  was  commanded  by  Pedi'o  Teixeira,  and  was  composed  of  seventy 
soldiers,  twelve  hundred  native  rowers  and  bowmen,  besides  females  and  slaves, 
who  increased  the  number  to  about  two  thousand.  They  embarked  in  forty-five 
canoes.  The  strength  of  the  opposing  current  and  the  difficulty  of  finding  their 
coui'se  amid  the  labyrinthian  channels  of  the  river  rendered  their  enterprise  one 
of  unparalleled  toil.  Many  of  the  Indians  deserted,  and  nothing  but  unwearied 
perseverance  and  great  tact  enabled  Teixeii-a  to  keep  the  rest.  After  a  voyage  of 
eight  months,  he  reached  the  extent  of  navigation.  Leaving  most  of  his  men  with 
his  canoes  at  this  place,  he  continued  his  journey  overland  to  Quito,  where  he  was 
received  with  distinguished  honors.  He  was  accompanied  on  his  return  by  several 
friars,  whose  business  it  was  to  record  the  incidents  and  observations  of  the  voyage. 
A  considerable  amount  of  authentic  information  was  thus  collected  and  published 
to  the  world.  The  party  reached  Belem  in  December,  1639,  amid  great  rejoicings. 
After  this,  voyages  upon  the  Amazon  became  more  common. 

"In  1745,  M.  La  Condamine,  a  French  academician,  descended  from  Quito,  and 
constructed  a  map  of  the  river,  based  upon  a  series  of  astronomical  observations. 
His  memoir,  read  before  the  Royal  Academy  on  his  return,  remains  to  this  day  a 
very  interesting  work.  In  modern  times,  the  most  celebrated  voyages  down  the 
Amazon  have  been  described  at  length  by  those  who  accomplished  them, — e.g.  Spix 
and  Von  Martins,  Lister  Mawe,  Lieutenants  Smyth,  Herudon  and  Gibbon,  and 
Mr.  Wallace. 

"The  expeditions  to  which  I  have  alluded  have  generally  been  prosperous,  and 
not  attended  with  any  peculiar  misfortunes.  Not  so  with  every  voyage  that  has 
been  undertaken  upon  these  interminable  waters.  The  sutf  jrings  of  Madame  Godia 
des  Odonnais  have  hardly  a  parallel  on  record.  The  husband  of  this  lady  was  an 
astronomer  associated  with  M.  Conlamine.  He  had  taken  his  family  with  him  to 
reside  in  Quito,  but,  baing  ordered  to  Cayenne,  was  obliged  to  leave  them  behind. 
Circumstances  transpired  to  prevent  his  returning  for  a  period  of  sixteen  years,  and 
when  finally  he  made  the  attempt  to  <»,scend  the  Amazon  he  was  taken  sick  and 
could  not  proceed.  All  the  messages  that  he  attempted  to  send  his  absent  wife 
failed  of  their  destination.  In  the  mean  time  a  rumor  reached  her  that  an  expedi- 
tion had  been  despatched  to  meet  her  at  some  of  the  missions  on  the  Upper  Amazon. 
She  immediately  resolved  to  set  out  on  the  perilous  journey.  She  was  accompanied 
by  her  family,  including  three  females,  two  children,  and  two  or  three  men,  one  of 
whom  was  her  brother.  They  surmounted  the  Andes  and  passed  down  the  tributary 
streams  of  the  Amazon  without  serious  diffijulties;  but  the  farther  they  entered 
into  the  measureless  solitudes  that  lay  before  them,  the  more  their  troubles  in- 
creased.    The  missions  were  found  in  a  state  of  desolation  under  the  ravages  of 


T]iE  Heroism  of  Madame  Godin. 


5G9 


the  smallpox.  The  vilkge  where  they  expected  to  find  Indians  to  conduct  thera 
down  the  river  had  but  two  inhabitants  surviving :  these  poor  creatures  could  not 
aid  them,  and  they  were  left  without  guides  or  canoe-men.  Ignorant  of  navigation, 
and  unaccustomed  to  either  toil  or  danger,  their  misery  was  now  beyond  descrip- 
tion. Their  canoe,  in  drifting  on  the  current,  filled  with  water,  and  they  barely 
escaped  with  life  and  a  few  provisions.  They  managed  to  construct  a  raft ;  but  this 
was  soon  torn  to  pieces  upon  a  snag.  The  forlorn  company  again  escape  to  the 
shore,  and,  as  their  only  alternative,  attempt  to  make  their  way  on  foot.  Without 
map  or  compass,  they  know  not  whither  they  go.  In  attempting  to  follow  the 
windings  of  the  stream  they  become  bewildered,  and  finally  plunge  into  the  depths 
of  the  forest.  Wild  fruits  and  succulent  plants  now  furnish  them  their  only  food. 
Weakened  by  hunger,  they  soon  fall  victims  to  disease. 

"In  a  few  days  Madame  Godin,  the  sole  survivor,  stood  surrounded  by  eight 
dead  bodies!  Imagine  the  horror  that  overwhelmed  her  as  she  saw  one  after 
another  of  her  friends  and  family  in  the  agonies  of  death !  In  the  desperation  of 
the  hour  she  attempted  to  bury  them,  but  found  it  impossible.  After  two  days 
spent  in  mourning  over  the  dead,  she  roused  up  with  a  determination  to  make 
another  effort  to  seek  her  long-lost  husband.  She  was  now  nearly  three  thousand 
miles  from  the  ocean,  without  food,  and  with  her  delicate  feet  lacerated  by  thorns. 
Taking  the  shoes  of  one  of  the  dead  men,  she  started  upon  her  dreary  way.  What 
phantoms  now  tortui'e  her  imagination  and  people  the  wilderness  with  frightful 
monsters !  But  she  wanders  on.  Days  of  wretchedness  and  nights  of  horror 
ensue.  At  length,  on  the  ninth  day,  she  heard  the  noise  of  a  canoe,  and,  running 
to  the  river-side,  she  was  taken  up  by  a  party  of  Indians.  Suftice  it  to  say  that 
they  conducted  her  to  one  of  the  missions,  from  which,  after  long  delays  and  great 
exposure,  she  was  finally  conveyed  down  the  Amazon  and  restored  to  her  husband 
after  nineteen  years'  separation.  They  returned  to  France  together  and  spent  the 
remnant  of  their  days  in  retirement ;  but  Madame  G.  never  fully  recovered  from 
the  eflFects  of  her  fright  and  sufferings. 

"Even  at  this  day,  the  traveller  upon  the  waters  of  the  Amazon,  above  Par&, 
finds  himself  in  a  wild  and  uncultivated  region.  He  will  scarcely  see  fifty  houses 
in  three  hundred  miles.  There  are  but  few  settlements  directly  on  the  river.  Most  of 
the  villages  are  on  the  tributary  streams  and  the  Iguaripes,  or  bayous.  The  houses 
universally  have  mud  floors  and  thatched  roofs ;  and,  though  the  population  is  in- 
creasing, I  fear  that  for  a  long  time  to  come 
the  great  majority  of  the  inhabitants  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Lower  Ama- 
zon will  be  such  as  are  depicted  in  the 
engraving. 

"Notwithstanding  all  the  beautiful 
theories  respecting  steam-navigation  on 
the  waters  of  the  Amazon  and  its  tribu- 
taries, nothing  was  accomplished  deserv- 
ing the  name  until  1853.  As  far  back 
as  the  year  1827,  an  association,  called 
the  South  American  Steamboat  Com- 
pany, was  organized  in  New  York,  with 
the  express    design  of    promoting    that 

navigation.  It  owed  its  origin  to  the  suggestion  of  the  Brazilian  Government 
through   its  charge  d'affaires,   Mr.  Rebello,   resident  in    the    United   States,  who 


570  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

stipulated  decided  encouragements,  and  the  grant  of  special  privileges  on  the  part 
of  His  Majesty  Dom  Pedro  I.  A  steamboat  was  fitted  out  and  sent  to  Par4,  and 
other  heavy  expenses  were  incurred  by  the  company ;  but,  through  a  lacK  of  co- 
operation on  the  part  of  Brazil,  the  whole  enterprise  proved  a  failure.  Claims  for 
indemnification  to  a  large  amount  were  for  a  long  time  pending  before  the  Brazilian 
Government. 

"After  1838,  small  Government  steamers  were  from  time  to  time  sent  up  the 
Amazon  as  far  as  the  River  Negro.  Such  voyages  were  repeated  at  intervals,  and 
sufficed  for  steam-navigation  on  the  Amazon  until  1853.  The  globe  does  not  else- 
where present  such  a  splendid  theatre  for  steam-enterprise.  Not  only  is  the  Amazon 
navigable  for  more  than  three  thousand  miles,  but  the  Tocantins,  the  Chingd,  the 
Tapajos,  the  Madeira,  the  Negro,  and  other  affluents,  are  unitedly  navigable  several 
thousand  more.  All  these  rivers  flow  through  the  richest  soil  and  the  most  luxu- 
rious vegetation  in  the  world." 

Near  their  margin  is  found  the  giant  of  Flora's  kingdom^  whose 
discovery  a  few  years  since  is  as  notable  a  fact  to  the  naturalist 
world  as  the  regular  opening  of  steam-navigation  upon  the  Amazon 
is  to  the  commercial  world. 

Of  all  the  Nj-mphseaceae,  the  largest,  the  richest,  and  the  most 
beautiful  is  the  marvellous  plant  which  has  been  dedicated  to  the 
Queen  of  England,  and  which  bears  the  name  of  Victoria  Regia. 
It  inhabits  the  tranquil  waters  of  the  shallow  lakes  formed  by  the 
widening  of  the  Amazon  and  its  affluents.  Its-leaves  measure  from 
fifteen  to  eighteen  feet  in  circumference.  Their  upper  part  is  of 
a  dark,  glossy  green;  the  under  portion  is  of  a  crimson  red,  fur- 
nished with  large,  salient  veins,  which  are  cellular  and  full  of  air, 
and  have  the  stem  covered  with  elastic  prickles.  The  flowers  lift 
themselves  about  six  inches  above  the  water,  and  when  fidl  blown 
have  a  circumference  of  from  three  to  four  feet.  The  petals  unfold 
toward  evening :  their  color,  at  first  of  the  purest  white,  passes,  in 
twenty -four  hours,  through  successive  hues  from  a  tender  rose-tinge 
to  a  bright  red.  During  the  first  day  of  their  bloom  they  exhale  a 
delightful  fragrance,  and  at  the  end  of  the  third  day  the  flower  fades 
away  and  replunges  beneath  the  waters,  there  to  ripen  its  seeds. 
When  matured,  these  fj'uit-seeds,  rich  in  fecula,  are  gathered 
by  the  natives,  who  roast  them,  and  relish  them  thus  prepared. 

The  description  of  this  magnificent  plant  explains  the  admiration 
experienced  by  naturalists  when  beholding  it  for  the  first  time.  The 
celebrated  Haenke  was  travelling  in  a  pirogue  on  the  Rio  Mamore, 
in  company  with  Father  Lacueva,  a  Spanish  missionary,  when  ho 
discovered,  in  the  still  waters  close  to  the  shore,  this   gigantic 


The  Victoria  Eegia. 


571 


Nymphseacese.  At  the  sight  the  botanist  fell  upon  his  knees,  and — • 
as  a  not  very  pious  French  writer  very  Frenchily  records — expressed 
his  religious  and  scientific  enthusiasm  by  impassioned  exclama- 
tions and  outbursts  of  adoration  to  the  Creator, — ''  an  improvised 
Te  Deum  which  must  have  deeply  impressed  the  old  missionary." 


THE      VICTORIA       REGIA      AND      THE      BOAT-BILL. 


In  1845,  an  English  traveller,  Mr.  Bridges,  as  he  was  following 
the  wooded  banks  of  the  Yacouraa,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the 
Mamore,  Tarae  to  a  lake  hidden  in  the  forest,  and  found  upon  it  a 
colony  of  Victoria  Recjias.  Carried  away  by  his  admiration,  he  was 
about  to  plunge  into  the  water  for  the  purpose  of  gathering  some 
of  the  flowers,  when  the  Indians  who  accompanied  him  pointed  to 
the  oavage  alligators  lazily  reposing  upon  the  surface.  This  in- 
formation made  him  cautious;  but,  without  abating  his  ardor,  he 
ran  to  the  city  of  Santa  Anna,  and  soon  obtained  a  canoe,  which 
was  launched  upon  the  lake  which  contained  the  objects  of  his 
ambition.     The  leaves  were  so  enormous  that  he  could  jDlace  but 


572 


Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 


two  of  them  on  the  canoe,  and  he  was  obliged  to  make  severa. 
trips  to  complete  his  harvest. 

Mr.  Bridges  soon  arrived  in  England  with  the  seeds,  which  he 
had  sown  in  moist  clay.  Two  of  these  germinated  in  the  aquarium 
of  the  hothouse  at  Kew.  One  was  sent  to  the  large  hothouses  of 
Chats  worth :  a  basin  was  prepared  to  receive  it,  the  temperature 
was  raised,  and  the  plant  was  placed  in  its  new  resting-place  on 
the  10th  of  August,  1849.  Toward  the  end  of  September  it  was 
necessary  to  enlarge  the  basin  and  to  double  its  size,  in  order  to 
give  space  to  the  leaves,  Avhich  developed  with  great  rapidity. 
So  large  did  they  become  that  one  of  them  supported  the  weight 
of  a  little  girl  in  an  upright  position. 

The  first  bud  opened  on  the  beginning  of  November.  The  flower 
in  bloom  was  offered  by  Mr.  Paxton  (the  celebrated  designer  of  the 
London  Crystal  Palace)  to  his  monarch,  and  the  great  personages 
of  England  hastened  to  Windsor  Castle  to  admire  the  beautiful 
homonym  of  their  gracious  sovereign. 

The  name  given  to  this  maiwellous  plant  by  Lindley  was  happily 
chosen;  but  the  natives  of  the  Amazon  call  it  "  Uape  Jaj)ona," — the 
Jacana's  oven, — from  the  fact  that  the  jacana  is  often  seen  upon  it. 

The  jacana  is  a  singular 
spur-winged  bird,  twice 
the  size  of  a  woodcock, 
provided  with  exceedingly 
long  and  slender  toes  (from 
which  the  French  term  it 
the  surgeon-bird)  which 
enable  it  to  glide  over 
various  water-plants.  It 
inhabits  the  marshes,  and 
woods  near  the  water,  and 
many  a  time  in  the  in- 
terior I  have  seen  it  steal- 
ing over  the  lilj^-leaves  on 
the  margin  of  rivers. 
Eeturning  from  this  di- 
gression to  the  capabilities  of  the  great  river  for  steam-navigation, 
we  remark  that  the   extent  of  the  Amazon  and  its    affluents   is 


THE      JACANA. 


The  "King  of  Waters."  573 

immense.  From  four  degrees  north  latitude  to  twenty  degrees 
Bouth,  every  stream  that  flows  down  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes 
is  a  tributaiy  of  the  Amazon.  This  is  as  though  all  the  rivers 
from  St.  Petersburg  to  Madrid  united  their  waters  in  one  mighty 
flood. 

Geographers  have  never  fully  agreed  which  of  the  upper  tribu- 
taries desei-ves  to  be  called  the  main  stream  of  the  Amazon;  but 
the  most  recent  explorers  are  decided  in  considering  the  Tangu- 
ragua  or  Upper  Maraiion  as  its  principal  source.  This  rises  in  a 
lake — Lauricocha — situated  almost  in  the  region  of  perpetual 
snow.  Nearly  all  the  branches  of  the  Amazon  are  navigable  to  a 
great  distance  from  their  junction  with  the  main  trunk,  and,  col- 
lecting the  whole,  afford  an  extent  of  water-communication  un- 
paralleled in  any  other  part  of  the  glo.be.  There  is  a  total  of  ten 
thousand  miles  of  steam-navigation  below  all  falls;  and,  these 
obstructions  once  passed,  steamers  could  be  run  for  four  thousand 
miles.     The  most  navigable  of  all  the  branches  is  the  Puriis. 

A  volume  of  fresh  water,  constantly  replenished  by  copious  rains, 
pours  forth  with  such  impetus  as  to  force  itself — an  unmixed  cur- 
rent— into,  the  ocean  to  the  distance  of  eighty  leagues.  While  the 
principal  branch  of  the  Ganges  discharges  80,000  cubic  feet  of  water 
per  second,  and  the  large  Brahmapootra  176,200  cubic  feet  every 
sixtieth  part  of  a  minute,  the  Amazon  sends  through  the  narrows 
at  Obidos  550,000  cubic  feet  per  second.    (  Von  Martius.) 

This  "king  of  waters"  is  remarkable  for  its  wide-spreading 
tributaries.  On  the  north  side,  the  first  from  the  west,  below  the 
I'apids  of  Manseriche,  is  the  Morona,  and  then  come  in  succession 
the  Pasta(;a,  Tigre,  Xapo,  Iga,  Japura,  Eio  Negro,  and  many 
streams  of  lesser  note.  From  the  south  it  receives — proceeding 
from  west  to  east — the  Huallaga,  Ucayali,  Yavari  or  Javary, 
Huta,  Hyuruay,  Teffe,  Coary,  Puri'is,  Madeira,  Tapajos,  Chingii, 
and  Tocantins.  Most  of  these  affluents  discharge  their  waters 
into  the  Amazon  by  more  than  one  mouth,  Avhich  frequently  are 
widely  apai't.  Thus,  the  two  most  distant  of  the  four  mouths 
of  the  Japura  are  more  than  two  hundred  miles  asunder,  and  the 
outer  embouchures  of  the  Purus  are  about  one  hundred  miles  from 
each  other.  In  the  upper  portion  of  its  course  the  Amazon  divides 
Equador  from  Peru,  between  which  its  width  varies  from  half  a 


574  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

mile  to  a  mile;  beyond  the  limits  of  Equador  it  increases  to  twt» 
miles;  and  below  the  Madeira — its  most  considerable  tributary, 
having  a  course  little  less  tlian  two  thousand  miles  in  length — it  is 
nearly  three  miles.  Between  Faro  and  Obidos — to  which  place 
the  tide  reaches — it  decreases  to  less  than  a  mile  ;  but  below  Obidos 
't  widens  again,  and,  after  the  junction  of  the  Tapajos,  it  is  nearly 
Beven  miles  across.  The  Avidth  of  the  channel  of  Braganza  do 
Norte  —  the  northern  mouth  of  this  vast  river — is  thirty  miles 
opposite  the  island  of  Marajo  and  fiftj'  at  its  embouchure;  that 
of  the  Tangipura  Channel  is  eighteen  miles  at  the  junction  of  the 
Tocantins  and  thirty  at  its  mouth. 

While  the  whole  area  drained  by  the  Mississippi  and  its  branches 
IS  1,200,000  square  miles,  the  area  of  the  Amazon  and  its  tributaries 
(not  including  that  of  the  Tocantins,  which  is  larger  than  the  Ohio 
Valley)  is  2,330,000  square  miles.  This  is  more  than  i»  third  of  all 
South  America,  and  equal  to  two-thirds  of  all  Europe.  JTlr.  Wallace 
has  startled  Englishmen  with  the  fact  that  "all  Western  Europe 
could  be  placed  in  it  without  touching  its  boundaries,  and  it  would 
even  contain  the  whole  of  our  Indian  Empire." 

In  1851-52,  Lieutenants  (U.  S.  N.)  lierndon  and  Gibbon  de- 
scended the  Amazon, — one  by  its  Peruvian  and  the  other  by  its 
Bolivian  tributaries.  Their  interesting  reports  were  published  b}' 
the  order  of  Congress,  and  are  laid  before  the  world.  Lieutenant 
Gibbon  passed  over  the  most  unknown  route,  and  hence  his  work 
possesses  more  intrinsic  interest.  Lieutenant  Ilerndon's  volume 
not  only  for  the  moment  awakened  the  United  States  and  England 
to  the  importance  of  the  Amazon,  but  the  fact  of  his  descent  of  that 
river  and  his  inferences — many  of  them  totallj''  visionary — aroused 
the  Brazilian  Government  to  the  performance  of  their  duty,  and  in 
1852-53,  Brazil,  by  treaty  with  Peru,  engaged  to  run  steamers, 
under  the  Brazilian  flag,  from  Para, — the  contractors  to  have  the 
monopol}^  of  steamboat-navigation  on  the  Amazon  for  thirty  j'cars, 
with  an  annual  bonus  of  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  for  the  first 
fifteen ;  the  voyage  to  be  performed  by  two  steamers, — one  ascend- 
ing the  Amazon  from  Para,  the  other  descending  it  from  Nauta, 
and  meeting  the  up-boat  at  Barra. 

Nauta  is  in  Peru,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Amazon,  forty-six 
leagues  below  the  junction  of  the  Huallaga,  and  has  a  population 


Amazonian  Steameks.  576 

of  one  thousand.  This  company,  under  the  leading  of  that  en- 
terprising Brazilian,  the  Baron  of  Maua,  immediately  sent  its 
first  steamer  from  Para  to  Nauta.  The  association,  in  return  for 
privileges  granted,  contracted  to  found  numerous  colonies  in  the 
provinces  of  Para  and  Amazonas.  ISTearly  every  month  colonists 
under  tbe  direction  of  the  Amazon  Navigation  Company  arrive 
from  Portugal  and  her  islands  at  Para.  The  colonies  at  Obidos 
and  at  Serpa,  and  another  at  the  mouth  of  the  Eio  Negro,  did  not 
prove  successful.  Although  the  company  engaged  to  plant  colo- 
nies above  the  Barra  of  the  Rio  Negro,  one  on  the  Eio  Teffe,  (above 
Y.  de  Ega,)  three  on  the  Madeira,  at  Crato  and  Borba,  two  on  the 
Tapajos,.  not  far  from  Santareni,  and  three  on  the  Tocantins,  it  is 
doubtful  if  the  contract  be  carried  out. 

The  contract  made  by  the  company  with  the  Portuguese  emi- 
grants was  this : — 

"  They  bind  themselves  to  work  for  the  company  for  two  years  at  a  certain  com- 
pensation per  diem,  and  to  be  housed  and  fed  during  that  period ;  and,  at  the  end 
of  their  apprenticeship,  each  person  is  entitled  to  a  certain  portion  of  open  land  in 
fee-simple, — the  heads  of  families  to  have  a  comfortable  house  on  their  portion,  no 
matter  whether  they  were  married  before  engaging  or  during  their  service." 

I  asked  Mr.  Nesbitt — a  practical  engineer  who  was  for  three 
years  travelling  on  the  Amazon  and  some  of  its  navigable  tri- 
butaries— his  opinion  of  the  steamers  employed  by  the  company. 
His  reply  (April,  1857)  was  as  follows : — 

"Thus  far  they  have  succeeded  well.  The  company  have  fully  complied  with 
their  part  of  the  contract  both  in  Brazil  and  with  Peru.  There  were  seven  steamers 
in  successful  operation  in  April,  185G,  and  two  new  boats  expected  every  week : 
one  of  these  two  was  the  '  Bay  City,'  built  in  New  York  for  the  Sacramento  and  San 
Francisco  trade,  but  was  so  badly  twisted  in  trying  to  double  Cape  Horn  that  she 
put  back  to  Rio  de  Janeiro  for  repairs,  and  was  sold  for  the  benefit  of  the  under- 
writers and  purchased  for  the  Amazon  Company.  The  names  of  the  seven  steamers 
that  were  running  are  the  'Tapajoz,'  'Rio  Negro,'  'Marajo,'  'Monarcha,'  'Cameti,' 
'Tabatinga,'  and  'Solimoes.'  The  'Rio  Negro'  and  'Tapajoz'  were  the  packets  from 
Par4  to  the  Barra  do  Rio  Negro, — making  semi-monthly  trips :  but,  after  the  1st 
of  January,  1857,  there  was  to  be  a  weekly  packet.  The  'Marajo'  ran  between  the 
Barra  and  Nauta,  in  Peru, — making  a  trip  every  two  months,  and,  after  January, 
1857,  the  trips  were  to  be  monthly.  The  '  Monarcha'  was  running  on  the  Rio 
Negro,  rom  the  Barra  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rio  Branco,  and  intended  to  go  as  far 
as  Barcellos  and  Moreira — still  higher — whenever  the  water  in  the  Rio  Negro  would 
permit,  which  would  be  about  eight  months  in  the  year.  The  Rio  Negro,  a  few 
leagues  above  the  Barra,  spreads  out  into  a  very  wide  bay  of  some  leagues  in 
breadth,  which  renders  steam  navigation  more  difficult  than  anywhere  else  on  the 
lower  river,  as  it  becomes  shallower  on  account  of  the  great  width  ;   but  above  thia 


576  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

bay  there  is  no  trouble.  There  are  several  lakes  adjacent  to  the  Rio  Negro,  where 
large  quantities  of  fish  are  caught,  salted,  and  dried  for  market.  There  are  a 
great  many  splendid  localities  for  farming-purposes  on  the  Rio  Negro  above  the 
Barra.  The  '  Solimoes'  was  intended  for  the  Rio  Tapajoz.  The  '  Cainetd'  was  a 
regular  packet  on  the  Tocantins,  between  the  city  of  Par4  and  the  town  of  Camet4, 
— making  monthly  trips. 

"All  these  steamers  had  as  much  business  as  they  could  well  do, — those  for  the 
Barra  more  than  they  could  do  ;   hence  the  necessity  for  weekly  trips. 

"  These  steamers  were  fast  superseding  the  square,  stem-and-stern,  crawling 
river-canoas ;  for  as  soon  as  a  ti-ader  makes  one  trip  in  a  steamer  he  begins  to  set 
some  value  upon  time,  and  forsakes  his  three-month  mode  of  getting  up  stream 
for  a  three  or  four  days'  trip.  Captain  Pimento  Bueno,  (son  of  the  distinguished 
Senator,)  the  energetic  and  gentlemanly  general  superintending  agent,  told  me  that, 
with  the  Government  bonus  and  the  merchants'  business,  the  steamers  paid  exceed- 
ingly well.  They  are  all  good  boats,  and  most  of  them  built  of  iron,  as  that  mate- 
rial is  decidedly  the  best,  on  account  of  the  worms  that  are  so  destructive  in  the 
Amazon.  Every  town  on  the  river  furnishes  wood  at  a  fixed  rate.  The  business 
of  the  steamers  is  constantly  on  the  increase ;  and  the  industrious  inhabitants 
of  any  of  the  villages  can  collect  their  syringa.  Brazil-nuts,  sarsaparilla,  cacS,o, 
&c.  &c.  and  send  them  down  to  Par4  by  the  steamer,  and,  on  her  return-trip,  re- 
ceive their  money.  This  is  creating  new  artificial  wants,  and,  of  course,  making 
the  people  exercise  more  industry  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  their  newly- 
awakened  demands. 

"These  steamers  certainly  have  done  wonders  in  the  last  four  years  toward  re- 
volutionizing the  whole  business  of  the  Amazon  Valley;  for,  even  from  Moyabamba, 
Tarapota,  and  other  Peruvian  towns  among  the  mountains,  they  now  bring  down 
their  products  in  canoes  and  on  bolsas  (rafts)  to  meet  the  steamer  at  Nauta,  which 
they  never  thought  of  doing  before.  Neither  are  the  advantages  of  steam  confined 
to  the  business-relations  of  life ;  but  there  is  evidently  an  increasing  desire  on  the 
part  of  the  great  mass  of  the  people  to  learn  more  of  the  outside  barbarians." 

Mr.  Nesbitt  thus  states  the  effect  of  the  sight  of  a  steamer  on 

the  remote  population  of  the  Upper  Amazon  : — 

"As  we  would  be  passing  a  sand-bar  on  the  upper  rivers  in  Peru,  where  a  steam 
boat  had  never  before  been  heard  of.  and  while  all  the  fishermen  and  fish-driers 
would  be  standing  in  amazement,  gazing  at  the  'monster  of  the  vasty  deep,' — not 
knowing  vphether  it  was  a  spirit  from  the  diabo  or  some  new  saint  sent  by  the 
Immaculate  Virgin, — I  would  touch  the  steam-whistle,  which  would  give  such  an 
unearthly  screech  that  men,  women,  children,  dogs,  and  monkeys  would  take  to 
their  heels  and  run  for  dear  life,  and  would  never  stop  to  allow  me  to  make 
the  amende  honorable." 

I  was  desirous  to  obtain  from  this  observant  and  practical  man 

an    opinion   in  regard  to  the  views  and  theories  of  Lieutenants 

Maury  and  Herndon  concerning  the  Amazon.     In  reply,  he  made 

the  following  statement : — 

"  I  think  that  Lieutenant  Maury's  letters  are  painted  rather  beyond  nature  ;  but 
his  ideas  of  the  Amazon  Valley  and  its  capabilities  are  certainly,  on  the  whole, 
nearer  the  mark  than  any  other  writer  I  have  ever  read.     His  theory  of  climate,  and 


Herndon's  Expedition — Peruvian  [Steamers.        577 

his  reasons  why  the  Valley  of  the  Amazon  is  not  like  the  same  latitudes  in  Africa, 
&c.  &c.,  are  assuredly  correct,  in  my  humble  opinion;  for  I  was  forcibly  impressed 
with  their  correctness  while  on  the  spot.  The  rainy  season  is  not  the  incessant 
'pouring  down'  of  Africa,  Central  America,  and  the  Orinoco-region.  It  is  more 
of  a  showery  season  :  it  is  true  sometimes  when  it  rains  ^it  pours,'  but  the  showers 
are  of  short  duration  comparatively,  and  they  fall  at  such  regular  intervals  that  one 
can  make  his  calculations  for  business-engagements  almost  to  a  certainty.  And  you 
will  never  have  a  day  without  seeing  the  sun  more  or  less. 

"  The  dry-season  is  not  feverish  and  scorching  ;  for  scarcely  a  week — certainly 
not  a  fortnight — passes  without  one  or  more  good  showers.  Such  a  thing  as 
crops  suffering  for  the  want  of  moisture  is  not  known  on  the  Amazon.  Although 
the  days  may  be  warm,  the  nights  are  always  cool  and  pleasant,  with  yery 
heavy  dews. 

"  Lieutenant  Herndon's  ideas  of  the  low  banks  were  just  such  as  any  person 
would  form  who  travelled  down  the  river  in  a  canoe,  as  it  is  impossible  for  any  one 
thus  situated  to  form  a  correct  estimate  of  the  country.  It  would  require  years^ 
not  a  few  months — to  learn  the  Valley  as  it  ought  to  be  learned.  There  is  not 
nearly  so  much  land  subject  to  inundation  as  Herndon  estimated :  notwithstanding, 
there  are  considerable  portions  that  are  overflown  at  high  floods.  Herndon's  ex- 
pedition left  its  work  unfinished ;  but  it  was  of  vast  service  to  the  country  on  the 
Amazon,  both  directly  and  indirectly, — as  that  expedition,  I  have  not  the  least  doubt, 
was  the  lever  that  moved  the  Brazilian  Government  to  promote  steam-navigation  on 
the  Amazon.     So  that  was  the  beginning;    'but  the  end  is  not  yet.'  " 

In  regard  to  the  steamers  ordered  by  Peru — which  made  the 
contract  with  Dr.  Whittemore,  formerly  of  Lima — to  be  built  at 
New  York  and  transported  in  pieces  to  Para,  to  be  run  in  connec- 
tion with  the  steamers  of  the  Brazilian  and  Amazon  Navigation 
Company,  Mr. Nesbitt  gives  me  the  following  information: — 

"  I  went  out  with  the  steamers  to  the  Amazon,  was  with  them  while  they  were 
being  reconstructed  in  Par4,  and,  after  they  were  ready  to  start  up  the  river,  I  took 
command  of  one  of  them.  Dr.  Whittemore,  our  leader,  commanded  the  other,  and 
proceeded  as  far  as  the  town  of  Obidos,  where  he  turned  them  both  over  to  me 
to  deliver  to  the  proper  authorities,  assisted  by  his  friend,  Mr.  Z.  B.  Cavaly.  Dr. 
Whittemore  then  returned  to  New  York. 

"  These  steamers  were  not  iron, — as  frequently  stated  by  newspaper  paragraphs, — 
but  were  constructed  of  pure  Georgia  pine,  frame,  planking,  and  all.  The  smaKest 
one  was  ninety  feet  long,  called  the  Iluallaga ;  the  other  was  one  hundred  and  ten 
feet  in  length,  called  the  Tirado,  in  honor  of  the  then  Secretary  of  State  of  Peru." 

In  reply  to  the  question,  How  did  the  Peruvian  steamers  turn 
out  ?  Mr.  N.  replied  as  follows  : — 

"  They  did  not  turn  out  so  well  as  was  anticipated,  or  as  could  have  been  desired 
for  the  credit  of  our  country,  whence  they  came.  They  were  built  very  light,  and 
poorly  finished  and  furnished ;  so  much  so,  that  the  Peruvian  Government  ofiBcer 
who  was  appointed  to  receive  them  refused  to  do  so,  so  that  we  wei-e  left  some 
twenty-five  hundred  miles  up  the  river  from  the  ocean,  with  a  couple  of  steamers 
and  two  American  crews,  without  any  provision  being  made  either  by  the  contractor 
or  by  the  Peruvian  Government  for  our  support ;  and  of  the  stores  we  had  on  board 

37 


578  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

a  great  poi-tion  was  in  a  damaged  state.  Under  these  circumstances,  the  agents  of 
the  contractor  were,  from  the  necessity  of  the  case,  compelled  to  compromise  with 
the  Governor-General  of  Eastern  Peru, — Colonel  Francisco  Alvarado  Ortiz, — who 
had  no  authority  delegated  to  him  in  the  matter  whatever  by  the  Government  of 
Peru,  but  who,  in  this  disagreeable  juncture,  acted  very  fairly  and  was  exceedingly 
liberal.  By  the  compromise  I  had  to  remain  in  charge  of  the  steamers  until  the 
Supreme  Government  would  act  in  the  matter.  But  the  controversy  is  not  yet 
finally  settled,  I  believe,  as  a  part  of  the  contract-money  is  still  due,  and  the 
Government  refuses  to  pay  it,  on  the  ground  that  the  contract  was  not  complied 
with  on  the  part  of  the  contractor. 

"  One  of  them,  the  Huallaga,  never  turned  a  paddle-wheel  after  she  reached 
the  port  of  Nauta,  but  was  tied  up  to  the  bank,  and  was  rotting  all  the  time  that  I 
was  there.  The  other,  the  Tirado,  made  a  few  trips  to  various  points  above.  I 
took  her  on  two  occasions  up  the  Rio  Huallaga  almost  to  Chasuta,  which  is  nearly 
three  thousand  five  hundred  miles  from  the  ocean:  one  of  these  trips  was  made  duriiig 
the  lowest  stage  of  water,  and  I  never  found  less  than  fifteen  feet  water  anywhere  in  the 
river-channel, — so  that  a  steamer  of  ten  feet  draught  can  pass  from  the  Pongo  de  Sal 
to  the  Atlantic  Ocean  any  day  in  the  year.  These  steamers  are  at  the  present  mo- 
ment becoming  more  useless  every  day.  Neither  of  the  two  boats  have  been  run 
for  any  purpose  since  I  left  them,  eighteen  months  ago  ;  neither,  indeed,  can  they 
be  used,  as  the  Peruvians  know  nothing  about  the  management  of  steamboats  and 
the  engineers  have  all  returned  to  the  United  States.  The  use  of  them  has  never 
been  worth  a  dollar  to  the  Government,  and  never  will  be. 

"  The  Salt-rapid  on  the  Huallaga,  below  Chasuta,  is  a  natural  curiosity.  The 
banks  of  the  river  for  more  than  a  league  are  one  solid  mass  of  rock-salt,  hard  and 
clear  as  ice,  in  some  places  of  a  bluish-red  color,  and  in  others  almost  white,  appa- 
rently the  whole  very  pure,  and  in  sufficient  quantity  to  supply  all  South  America 
for  centuries. 

"  I  have  ascended  the  Huallaga,  Ucayali,  Pasta9a,  Madeira,  and  a  short  distance 
above  the  Barra  do  Rio  Negro.  The  Huallaga,  as  before  mentioned,  is  navigable 
for  steamers  the  year  round,  for  vessels  of  ten  feet  draught,  as  high  as  the  Pongo  de 
Sal,  without  the  least  trouble, — and  to  Chasuta,  with  ordinary  caution  and  care, — 
and  for  canoes  from  Tinga  Maria  (only  three  hundred  miles  from  Lima)  to  the 
mouth,  down  stream;  but  the  ascent  by  canoes  is  very  difficult.  The  country  is 
excellent,  being  very  healthy  and  fertile,  with  numerous  villages  all  along  the  banks. 
The  Pasta5a  is  a  very  fine  little  affluent,  and  is  navigable  for  steamers  several  hun- 
dred miles  the  greatest  part  of  the  year;  but  there  are  a  number  of  tribes  of  hos- 
tile Indians  on  its  lower  waters.  The  land  is  most  excellent,  and  the  best  Peruvian 
bark  on  the  upper  rivers  is  found  on  this  stream.  There  are  sometimes  small 
quantities  of  gold  brought  down  by  the  friendly  Indians  near  its  head-waters  :  I 
have  seen  some  very  fine  specimens  of  it.  The  Ucayali  can  be  ascended  by  a  light- 
draught  steamer  nearly  six  hundred  miles  a  part  of  the  year,  and  as  far  as  Sarayacu 
the  whole  year.  The  Rio  Madeira  is  also  a  fine  stream :  it  is  navigable  for  any 
class  of  river-steamers  to  the  Falls ;  but  at  no  time  can  a  steamer  ascend  these 
rapids.  However,  above  the  dozen  rapids,  there  is  plenty  of  water  for  several  hun- 
dred miles,  for  a  small  steamer,  the  year  round." 

In  1853,  a  translation  of  Lieutenant  Maury's  letters  was  published 
in  the  widely-circulated  Correio  Mercantil  of  Eio  de  Janeiro;  and  I 
well  remember  the  commotion  his  communications  on  the  Amazon 


J 


Effect  of  Lieutenant  Mauky's  Letters  in  Brazil.  '579 

caused  at  the  capital,  in  connection  with  a  report  that  a  "flibustier- 
ing"  expedition  was  fitting  out  at  New  York  to  force  the  opening 
of  the  great  river. 

It  is  certainly  a  matter  of  deep  regret  that  one  whose  writings 
and  scientific  investigations  have  (notwithstanding  his  manifold 
short-comings  in  regard  to  his  own  country)  blessed  and  are  bless- 
ing the  world,  should  have  permitted  himself  to  make  use  of  lan- 
guage which  could  only  inflame  a  sensitive  nation,  and  of  some 
arguments  which  can  only  tend  to  "flibustiering."  If  Lieutenant 
Maury  had  left  out  the  offensive  language,  and  a  portion  of  his 
reasoning,  which  has  been  by  Brazilians  legitimately  construed  as 
nothing  less  than  an  advocacy  of  the  theory  that  might  makes 
right,  I  believe  that  it  would  have  spared  much  unnecessary  sus- 
picion and  jealousy.  Since  that  time  a  better  feeling  has  been 
growing  between  the  two  countries;  and  we  are  sure  that  the  time 
will  come  when  both  governments  will  be  closely  linked  by  com- 
mercial interest,*  while  we  should  receive  Brazil's  great  staples  free 

*  In  the  United  States  Commercial  Relations  for  1864  I  find  the  following  are 
the  two  leading  staples  of  trade,  by  James  Monroe,  Esq.,  Consul  at  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

The  total  importation  of  flour  in  Rio  de  Janeiro  during  the  year  1863  amounted 
to  319,852  barrels,  of  which  241,362  barrels  were  from  the  United  States.  The 
number  of  barrels  imported  from  the  United  States  in  1862  was  261,865,  and  in 
1861  302,061. 

There  were  exported  from  this  city  in  1863  1,353,273  bags  of  cofl"ee,  against 
1,487,583  bags  for  1862,  and  2,064,335  bags  for  1861.  This  decrease  of  ex- 
portation has  been  due  to  a  falling  oif  in  the  crops.  During  both  the  years  last 
named  all  the  coffee  raised  in  this  province  which  was  not  required  for  home 
consumption  was  exported  at  high  prices.  The  decrease  in  the  amount  of  the 
crops  has  been  due,  in  part,  to  unfavorable  seasons  and  the  ravages  of  an  insect 
which  attacks  the  tree  and  sometimes  the  flower  and  newly-formed  fruit,  but 
still  more  to  defective  modes  of  agriculture  and  the  want  of  labor.  The  lack  of 
laborers  might  be  in  part  supplied  by  the  introduction  of  suitable  machinery. 
This  has  been  done  to  a  small  extent;  but  improvements  of  this  kind  seem  to 
spread  slowly  among  the  great  plantations  in  the  interior.  The  partial  failure 
of  the  crops  upon  many  old  estates  is  no  doubt  owing  to  the  continued  cropping 
of  many  successive  years  without  making  the  necessary  returns  to  the  soil. 

While  the  exportation  of  coffee  from  this  port  to  the  United  States  in  1861 
was  756,355  bags,  in  1862  it  was  but  394,656  bags,  and  in  1863  only  388,875  bags. 
The  causes  of  this  decrease  in  the  consumption  of  coffee  in  our  country  are  too 
well  understood  to  require  explanation  here.  It  is  a  striking  example  of  the 
manner  in  which  important  events  in  countries  widely  separated  become  related 
to  each  other — events  having  no  common  origin  in  material  or  political  causes,  or 
in  the  plans  of  any  human  intelligence — that  the  falling  off  in  the  coffee  crop 
of  Brazil  for  the  past  three  years  has  been  nearly  balanced  by  the  decrease  in 
the  demand  for  the  article  in  the  United  States. 


580  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

of  dut}',  and  that  which  is  exported  by  us  to  Brazil  ought  not  to 
be  heavily  taxed.  The  property  of  our  citizens  dying  intestate  1$ 
administered  by  the  Brazilian  Government  in  a  manner  that  never 
gives  satisfaction.  Outrages  committed  upon  citizens  of  the  United 
States  in  distant  portions  of  the  Empire  in  1853  very  tardily  met 
with  redress  from  the  interior  magistrates,  whose  feelings  towardl 
Norte  Americanos  were  embittered  by  the  conclusions  arrived  at 
after  reading  the  letters  of  Tenente  Maury.  It  was  long  ere  we 
regained  the  sympathies  which  we  had  in  1850,  when  it  was  pro- 
posed, in  case  of  war  with  England,  that  the  whole  Brazilian  coast- 
trade  should  be  put  under  the  flag  of  the  United  States. 

At  Bio,  Senhor  de  Angelis  replied  to  Lieutenant  Maury's 
''Amazon  and  the  Atlantic  Coasts  of  South  America,"  (Port, 
trans.,)  and  his  arguments,  supported  by  Vattel  and  other  writers 
on  international  law,  arc  very  ably  stated.  His  volume,  how- 
ever, contains  at  its  close  some  very  pointed  and  plain  language 
in  regard  to  Texas  and  Greytown,  which  adds  nothing  to  his 
argument. 

We  hope,  however,  that  the  judicious  policy  of  the  Union  will 
always  maintain  a  course  which  should  be  that  of  a  country 
■professing  the  j)rinciples  of  justice  and  liberality. 

Whether  the  Amazon  region,  at  least  in  the  vicinity  of  the  great 
river,  can  ever  be  thickly  peopled  b}^  a  more  Northern  race,  re- 
mains to  be  seen.  It  is  in  one  range  of  temperature,  (not  like  the 
Mississippi,  which  enjoys  every  variety  of  climate,)  and  is  as  yet 
an  almost  unbroken  wilderness.  Some  persons  who  have  given 
much  attention  to  this  subject  argue  from  the  nature  of  the 
case  that  the  provinces  of  Para  and  Amazonas  can  never  become 
flourishing  rendezvous  for  Northerners.  But,  as  Brazil  differs 
from  all  other  tropical  countries,  it  may  be  that  the  "howling 
wilderness"  of  the  Amazon  will  yet  smile  with  industry  and 
civilization.     This  was  my  conviction  when  in  that  valley  in  1862. 

As  the  case  stands,  Brazil  certainly  has  the  right,  and  the  sole 
right,  to  control  the  rivers  within  her  own  borders,  no  matter  if 
they  do  rise  in  other  states;  and,  as  previous  to  the  treaty  which 
gave  the  United  States  the  right  of  descending  the  St.  Lawrence 
no  other  country  would  have  had  the  right  to  force  England  to 
open  to   the   United  States  that  river  because  many  of  her  tri- 


Benefit  to  be  Derived  from  Opening  the  Amazon.  581 

butaries  have  their  rise  iu  the  territory  of  the  Union,  so  there  is 
no  justice  in  any  proposition  to  force  Brazil  to  concede  the  free 
navigation  of  the  Amazon.  So  ntiuch  for  the  principle  involved. 
But  we  are  happy  to  say  that  Brazil  has  waived  all  narrow  state 
polic}^  and  precedent,  and  on  the  Tth  of  September,  1867,  declared, 
by  Imperial  decree,  the  Amazon  open  to  the  flags  of  all  nations, 
from  the  Atlantic  to  Peru.  Brazil  has  thus  applied  to  the  Amazon 
the  most  enlarged  political  economy,  and  will  in  due  time  reap 
incalculable  benefits  in  the  development  of  her  vast  resources. 

About  one-half  of  Bolivia,  two-thirds  of  Peru,  three-fourths  of 
Equador,  and  one-half  of  New  Grenada,  are  drained  by  the  Amazon 
and  its  tributaries.  For  the  want  of  steam-communication  the 
trade  of  all  these  parts  of  those  countries  goes  west  over  the 
Andes  to  Callao.  There  it  is  shipped,  and,  after  doubling  Cape 
Horn  and  sailing  eight  or  ten  thousand  miles,  it  is  then  only  off 
the  mouth  of  the  Amazon,  on  its  way  to  Europe  or  the  United 
States;  whereas,  if  the  navigation  of  the  Amazon  were  free,  the 
produce  of  the  interior  could  be  landed  at  Para  for  what  it  costs 
to  convey  it  across  the  Andes  to  the  ports  of  the  Pacific. 

Note  for  1866. — In  1802,  J.  C.  F.  travelled  on  the  Amazon  from  its  mouth  to 
the  limits  of  Pei'u,  in  the  new  steamers  ISIandos,  Belem,  Icamyaba,  and  the 
Inca.  The  Amazon  Navigation  Company  (whose  President  is  the  well-known 
Baron  de  Maua,  a  Brazilian  nobleman  and  financier  at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  and  whose 
chief  director  at  Par4  is  the  energetic  Sr.  Pimento  Bueno)  has  conferred  the 
greatest  blessings  upon  that  region,  which  is  yet  destined  to  see  a  greater  deve- 
lopment. The  line  has  increased  its  steamers  and  its  efficiency  generally;  and 
now  the  Peruvians  have  inaugurated  a  line  on  their  share  of  the  Amazon  and  the 
branches  up  the  Solimoes  and  the  Huallaga.  The  colonies  referred  to  on  page  575 
have  ceased,  from  various  causes;  but  the  valley  has  gained.  It  is  still  a  vast 
wilderness;  but  the  volumes  of  Bates,  ("Naturalist  on  the  Amazon,"  London,  1863,) 
the  observations  of  M.  Brunet,  a  thorough  but  most  modest  explorer,  the  labors 
of  Coutinho,  Costa  de  Azavedo,  and  Scares  Pinto  in  1861,  '62,  and  '63,  and  the 
magnificent  explorations  now  being  conducted  by  Professor  \gassiz,  will  turn 
the  attention  of  the  world  to  this  wonderful  basin.  The  kind  attentions  of  Sr. 
Pimento  Bueno,  Charles  Jenks  Smith,  and  Dr.  Coutinho,  at  Pard,;  of  Dr.  Peixoto 
(Municipal  Judge  at  Cametd),  Dr.  Marcos  at  Villa  Bella,  Mr.  Jeffries  at  Obidos, 
and  Sr.  Jos<S  de  Freitas  Guimaraes,  Henrique  Antonii,  Dr.  Gustave,  and  Charles 
Collyer  contributed  much  to  procure  the  collections  for  Professor  Agassiz  made  by 
me  in  1862. 


CONCLUSION. 

The  authors,  in  reviewing  the  ground  which  they  have  gone 

over  in  this  volume,  only  feel  the  imperfection  of  their  labors  and 

how  difficult  has  been  the  task  to  give  in  so  small  space  a  just  and 

general  view  of  Brazil.     They  have  compai*ed  the  Empire  not  with 

England  and   the  United  States,  but  with  other  countries  of  the 

New  World  which  have  been  peopled  by  descendants  of  the  Latin 

race.    This  they  believe  to  be  the  true  mode  of  comparison.     Many 

errors  may  thus  be  avoided.    In  the  year  1857  their  attention  was 

called  to  an  editorial  in  one  of  the  most  widelj'-circulated  and 

influential  papers  of  our  country,  in  which  occurs  the  following 

sentence  : — 

"  To  those  who  wish  to  know  how  deep  human  nature  can  sink  in  moral  degrada- 
tion and  the  extreme  limit  of  monarchical  imbecility,  we  recommend  a  reading  of 
Ewbank's  'Brazil,'  whose  details  of  hopeless  superstition,  general  ignorance,  and 
political  demoralization  have  no  parallel." 

"We  have  already  shown  our  appreciation  of  the  author  referred 
to  by  direct  quotations  from  his  work ;  and  had  he  who  penned 
this  editorial  remembered  that  Mr.  Ewbank  (more  than  20  3'ear.s 
ago)  was  a  stranger  abiding  for  a  few  months  in  a  new  and  curious 
country,  and  published  a  journal  of  observations  and  events  which 
he  jotted  down  from  the  impressions  of  the  moment,  and  makes 
but  few  generalizations,  he  (the  editor)  would  not  have  been  so 
sweeping  in  his  condemnation  of  Br.azil.  He  seems,  however,  to 
have  entirely  overlooked  one  of  Mr.  Ewbank's  few  general  con- 
clusions. Ilad  he  read  it  ho  would  doubtless  have  been  convinced 
that  there  was  something  hopeful  in  Brazil.  As  the  ojjinions  of 
the  author  in  question  have  been  often  quoted  to  us  as  entirely 
at  variance  with  any  encouragement  in  regard  to  the  Empire 
ruled  by  Dom  Pedro  II.,  we  cite  from  his  last  chapter  the  follow- 
ing, which  is  to  the  point : — 

"  The  character  of  the  Brazilians,  I  should  say,  is  that  of  an  hospitable,  affec- 
tionate, intelligent,  and  aspiring  people.     They  are  in  advance  of  their  Portuguese 
682 


Conclusion.  683 

progenitors  in  liberality  of  sentiment  and  in  entei'prise.  Many  of  their  young  men 
visit  Eui'ope,  others  are  educated  in  the  United  States :  add  to  this  an  increasing 
intercourse  vrith  foreigners, — the  means  ordained  by  Divine  Providence  for  human 
improvement, — and  who  does  not  rejoice  in  their  honorable  ambition  and  in  the 
career  opened  before  them  ?  It  must  be  remembered,  however,  that  no  one  people 
can  be  a  standard  for  any  other,  for  no  two  are  in  the  same  circumstances  and  con- 
ditions. The  influence  of  climate,  we  know,  is  omnipotent ;  and,  from  their  occupy- 
ing one  of  the  largest  and  finest  portions  of  the  equatorial  regions,  it  is  for  them  to 
determine  how  far  science  and  the  arts  within  the  tropics  can  compete  with  thei 
progress  in  the  temperate  zones.  As  respects  progress,  they  are,  of  Latin  nations., 
next  to  the  French.  In  the  Chambers  are  able  and  enhghtened  statesmen ;  and  the 
representatives  of  the  Empire  abroad  are  conceded  to  rank  in  talent  with  the  ambas- 
sadors of  any  other  country.  As  for  material  elements  of  greatness,  no  people  under 
the  sun  are  more  highly  favored,  and  none  have  a  higher  destiny  opened  before  them. 
May  they  have  the  wisdom  to  achieve  it!" — Uwbank's  Sketches  of  Life  in  .Brazil. 

It  is  impossible  to  appreciate  the  present  condition  of  Brazil 
without  taking  into  view  the  influences  of  the  mother-country. 
Notwithstanding  the  wealth  and  glory  of  Portugal  during  tho 
short  period  of  her  maritime  supremacy,  there  are  few  countries 
in  Europe  less  fitted  to  become  the  model  of  a  prosperous  state  in 
modern  times.  In  whatever  light  we  consider  Portugal  or  her  in- 
stitutions, wo  find  them  altogether  behind  the  spirit  of  the  age. 
Yet  that  country,  as  insignificent  in  size  as  it  is  indifferent  in  con- 
dition, held  nearly  half  of  South  America  under  the  iron  sway  of 
colonial  bondage  from  the  period  of  its  discovery  until  1808, — we 
might. almost  say  1822. 

The  short  space  of  forty  four  years  is  all  that  Brazil  has  yet 
enjoyed  for  the  great  object  of  establishing  her  character  as  an 
independent  nation.  During  that  period  she  has  had  to  contend 
with  great  and  almost  numberless  difficulties.  A  large  proportion 
of  the  inhabitants  were  persons  born  or  educated  in  Portugal,  and 
consequently  imbued  with  the  narrow  views  and  the  illiberal  feel- 
ings so  common  to  the  Portuguese.  The  laws,  the  modes  of  doing 
business  as  well  as  of  thinking  and  of  acting,  that  universally  pre- 
vailed, were  Portuguese.  All  these  required  decided  renovation  in 
order  to  suit  the  circumstances  of  a  new  empire  rising  into  being 
during  the  progress  of  the  nineteenth  century. 

Such  a  renovation  is  not  the  work  of  a  day;  and  if  it  should 
appear  that  as  yet  it  has  only  properly  commenced,  still,  the  Bra- 
zilian nation  will  stand  before  the  world  as  deserving  the  highest 
credit.     She  has  broken  off  bonds  that  had  remained  riveted  upon 


584  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

her  for  ages.  She  has  advanced  from  a  degrading  colonial  servi- 
tude to  a  high  and  honorable  position  among  the  nations  of  the 
earth.  What  is  perhaps  still  bettei',  she  cherishes  a  desire  for 
improvement.  She  directs  a  vigilant  eye  toward  other  nations; 
she  observes  the  working  of  their  different  institutions,  and  mani- 
fests a  disposition  to  adopt  those  which  are  truly  excellent,  as  far 
and  as  fiast  as  they  can  be  adapted  to  her  circumstances. 
Her  finances  are  in  a  very  good  condition.  But  she  should 
be  ready  to  accept  and  to  court  a  greater  reciprocity  among  the 
nations  of  the  earth,  and  should  abandon  all  narrow  policy. 

The  revenues  of  the  Empire  are  almost  entirely  the  product  of 
heavj^  duties  upon  commerce.  Unfortunately,  the  nation  has  but 
few  manufactures  to  call  for  her  high  tariff  as  a  means  of  protec- 
tion. Her  duties  upon  imports  constitute  a  direct  tax  upon  inter- 
nal consumption ;  while  the  duties  upon  exports  embarrass  her 
trade  abroad.  Thus,  agriculture  is  doubly  oppressed,  and  it  is 
under  the  burden  of  great  difficulties  that  the  immense  resources 
of  the  country  are  to  a  comparatively  small  degree  developed. 

Were  there  no  other  means  of  providing  for  the  expenses  of 
government,  it  would,  perhaps,  be  idle  to  dwell  upon  this  ruinous 
process,  unless  it  were  to  comment  ujjon  it  as  a  necessary  evil. 
But  is  there  no  possibility  of  raising  a  revenue  for  Brazil  from  the 
sale  of  public  lands?  Millions  upon  millions  of  acres  remain  as 
yet  unappropriated,  notwithstanding  the  utter  cai'elessness  with 
which  the  richest  and  most  valuable  portions  of  the  public  domain 
have  hitherto  been  3'ielded  to  tbe  ownership  of  whomsoever  might 
incline  to  take  possession  of  it.  Might  not  Government  surveys  be 
instituted,  and  the  whole  country  brought  under  legal  demarca- 
tion? Hitherto,  not  one-fiftieth  part  of  it  was  ever  surveyed; 
and  even  in  some  populous  districts  great  uncertainty  respecting 
boundaries  still  exists.  It  is  understood  that  a  reform  in  this 
direction  has  been  begun.  But  what  advantages  could  result 
from  these  surveys,  unless  spontaneous  foreign  immigration  were 
encoiiraged  ? 

Great  things  have  been  done  in  this  respect,  but  more  still  re- 
mains to  be  accomplished.  But  the  colonial  system  has  not  proved 
the  success  which  its  friends  had  hoped.  The  popular  mind  is 
waking  up  to  the  true  mode.     Intelligent  emigrants  are  needed. 


COKCLUSION.  585 

Open  wide  the  doors,  let  the  Government  throw  off  all  restriction 
of  passports  and  every  tax  upon  the  emigrant,  and  the  great  and 
small  proprietors  will  not  have  to  resort  to  expensive  means  to 
induce  immigration :  it  will  flow  of  itself. 

Education  is  daily  exciting  increased  attention.  In  the  new 
system  of  school-instruction,  the  French  model  has  heen  generally 
followed.  Having  already'  described  institutions  of  the  various 
grades, —  from  the  primary  school  to  the  law-university, —  it  will 
now  be  sufficient  to  remark  that  a  great  degree  of  improvement 
upon  the  former  state  of  things  is  already  manifest;  but  at  the 
same  time  the  work  of  educational  reform  has  only  commenced. 
The  teachers'  salaries  are  too  low;  the  interest  among  the  com- 
mon peoj)le  requires  to  be  more  fully  excited;  and  a  very  serious 
obstacle  is  to  be  overcome  in  the  want  of  suitable  school-books. 

It  is  sad  to  often  find  hinderanccs  to  the  cause  of  education  in 
the  very  men  who  ought  to  be  leaders  in  the  movement  for  the 
intellectual  as  well  as  the  moral  training  of  the  young.  A  single 
instance  and  a  general  remark  will  illustrate  what  wo  mean. 

A  priest  residing  in  one  of  the  most  prominent  cities  of  the 
Empire,  and,  indeed,  exercising  his  functions  beneath  the  very 
shadow  of  one  of  the  universities,  was  heard  to  say,  ^'Ndo  gosto  de 
livros;  gosto  7nais  de  jogar,"  (''1  have  no  relish  for  books;  I  like 
gaming  better.")  In  corroboration  of  these  remarks  is  the  lan- 
guage of  a  distinguished  Brazilian  statesman,  uttered  before  the 
Imperial  Legislature  : — 

"A  narrow  strip  on  the  coast  is  all  that  enjoys  the  benefits  of  civilization;  while, 
in  the  interior,  our  people  are  still,  to  a  great  degree,  enveloped  in  barbarism." 
In  immediate  connection  with  this  remark,  the  same  gentleman  added,  "We  have 
been  unable  to  do  any  thing,  and  nothing  can  be  accomplished  without  the  aid  of  a 
moral  and  intelligent  clerg}'." 

Notwithstanding  the  picture  sketched  in  these  brief  but  just 
intimations,  there  is  much  room  to  hope  for  Brazil  on  the  score 
of  education.  The  schoolmaster  is  abroad  in  the  Empire;  the 
press  is  at  work;  but  the  number  of  scholars  has  not  proportion- 
ately increased  with  the  population  since  1855.  Let  slavery  be 
done  awa}'^,  and  the  next  decade  will  witness  a  vast  improvement. 

The  history  of  Brazilian  literature  is  brief;  yet,  under  the  cir- 
cumstances in  which  it  has  sprung  up,  that  literature  must  be 
considered  creditable.     Of  all  that  has  been  written  in  the  Portu- 


686  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

guese  language  within  the  last  hundred  years,  Brazil  has  produced 
her  full  proportion  of  what  is  meritorious.  The  volumes  of  the 
Canon  Pinheiro  (Eio  de  Janeiro)  on  Portuguese  literature,  and  of 
Wolf  (Berlin)  on  Brazilian  literature,  sufficiently  attest  this. 
Portugal  has  never  produced  a  scientific  man  superior  to  Jose 
Bonifacio  de  Andrade :  indeed,  for  years  she  borrowed  this  distin- 
guished Brazilian  to  adorn  her  university  of  Coimbra  and  her 
medical  schools  of  Lisbon.  The  only  living  Portuguese  prose 
writer  who  excels  the  Brazilian  prose  writers  is  Alexander  Hercu- 
lano  of  Lisbon.  He  is  the  present  master  in  historic  writing,  and, 
though  differing  from  them  both,  may  be  compared  to  Lord 
Macaulay  or  Mr.  Prescott.  As  a  prose  writer,  however,  Torres 
Homem,  a  Brazilian  statesman  tinged  with  as  much  African  blood 
as  courses  the  veins  of  Alexander  Dumas,  is  by  the  admission  of 
literary  men  at  Rio  their  first  prose  writer.  It  is  to  be  regretted 
that  he  has  not  devoted  himself  more  to  literature.  Perhaps  the 
most  pojDular  native  writer  of  fiction  is  Sr.  Alencar,  author  of  the 
Guarani.  He  has  had  the  good  taste  and  foresight  to  take  up  a 
native  subject.  In  historic  writings,  while  there  have  been  many 
essaj'S,  the  largest  works  are  those  of  Varnhagen  (now  Brazilian 
minister  to  Peru)  and  Pereira  da  Silva.  The  former  has  amassed  a 
vast  amount  of  material  for  future  writers  of  history,  while  the 
latter  is  now  publishing  what  he  purposes  to  be  an  exhaustive 
history  of  his  country.  The  Quarterly  Eeview  of  the  Imperial 
Geographical  and  Historical  Institute  for  thirty  years  has  been 
enriched  by  well-written  articles  and  essays  in  history  and  geo- 
graphy. In  political  writing  the  Brazilian  press  has  abounded. 
Tormerly  their  political  theories  w^ere  greatly  influenced  by  French 
writers,  but  at  the  present  time  no  foreigner  so  influences  the  minds 
of  the  younger  and  middle-aged  Brazilian  statesmen  as  John  Stuart 
Mill.  The  key-note  and,  indeed,  the  burden  of  Sr.  Zacarias'  Poder 
Moderador  is  John  Stuart  Mill  on  Liberty.  In  the  law  universities 
of  San  Paulo  and  Pernambuco  are  many  able  professors  and  writers 
on  law;  w4iile  the  medical  colleges  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  and  Bahia 
have  writers  equally  eminent  in  their  department.  There  are 
wanting  lay  discussions  on  religious  subjects;  but  we  are  glad  to 
see  an  essay  on  religious  toleration  by  Sr.  I.  B.  Bareto  of  Pernam- 
buco.    It  is,  however,  in  poetry  that,  at  the  present  time,  Brazil 


Conclusion.  587 

excels  the  mother-country.  The  names  of  Magalhaens  and  Gon- 
Qalves  Dias,  in  poetry,  stand  deservedly  high.  Gonyalves  Dias  ia 
supreme  in  lyric  poetry.  His  sad  and  tragic  end  on  board  a  wrecked 
ship  in  sight  of  his  native  land  caused  the  profoundest  emotion 
throughout  Brazil.  There  are  many  other  poets  of  merit,  but  who 
have  only  written  fugitive  pieces.  Within  the  last  few  years  the 
example  of  Dom  Pedro  II.  has  influenced  the  young  men  to  the 
study  of  the  English  and  American  poets.  Excellent  translations 
of  the  poetry  of  Longfellow  and  Whittier  have,  among  others,  been 
made  by  the  Emperor,  M.  M.  Lisboa,  Pedro  Luiz,  and  Bittincourt 
S.  Paio.  Porto  Alegre,  Macedo,  Norberto,  and  Assis  are  well 
known. 

It  may  perhaps  be  considered  by  some  as  a  misfortune,  in  a  lite- 
raiy  point  of  view,  to  Brazil,  that  her  language  is  the  Portuguese. 
A  jjrcjudice  against  that  language  prevails  extensively  among 
foreign  nations;  and,  although  that  prejudice  is  in  a  great  degree 
unjust,  it  will  not  soon  be  overcome.  The  learned  have  seldom 
been  induced  to  acquire  that  knowledge  of  the  language  which  is 
essential  to  an  appreciation  of  its  real  merits.  Those  who  have 
formed  its  acquaintance  accord  to  it  high  praises.  Mr.  Southey, 
for  example,  has  declared  it  to  be  "inferior  to  no  modern  speech," 
and  to  contain  "  some  of  the  most  original  and  admirable  works 
that  he  had  ever  perused."  Schlegcl,  in  his  "History  of  Litera- 
ture," bears  the  very  highest  testimony  to  the  beauty  and  copious- 
ness of  the  Portuguese  language,  and  cannot  restrain  his  admira- 
tion for  De  Camoes.  Of  the  Lusiad  a  distinguished  French  writer 
has  said,  "It  is  the  first  epic  of  modern  times."  (It  must  be  remem- 
bered  that  the  Latin  nations  have  never  been  able  to  comprehend 
Milton.)  M.  de  Sismondi  says,  "The  distinguished  men  whom 
Portugal  has  produced  have  given  to  their  country  every  branch 
of  literature."  And  again: — -"Portuguese  literature  is  complete  : 
we  find  in  it  every  department  of  letters."  (^De  la  Litterature  du 
Midi  de  V Europe,  t.  iv.  p.  262.)  "The  Portuguese  language," 
says  M.  Sane,  "is  beautiful,  sonorous,  and  copious:  it  is  free 
fx'om  that  gutturalness  with  which  we  reproach  the  Spanish  :  it 
has  the  sweetness  and  flexibility  of  the  Italian  and  the  gravity 
and  descriptiveness  of  the  Latin."  {Poesie  Lyrique  Portuguaise, 
p.  xc      Paris,  1808.)     In  fine,  it  may  be  remarked  that  no  living 


588  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

language — not  excepting  the  SjDanish  and  Italian — is  so  near  in 
every  respect  the  tongue  of  old  Imperial  Eome  as  that  of  Lusi- 
tania.  If  the  Brazilians,  possessing  such  a  language,  shall  develop 
the  genius  and  the  application  necessary  to  such  a  result,  they 
may  j'et,  by  creating  a  literature  worthy  of  themselves,  secure 
the  respect  and  admiration  of  the  world. 

Notwithstanding  so  little  is  known  of  the  Portuguese  language 
to  certain  classes  of  the  literati,  it  prevails  wherever  there  are  or 
have  been  settlements  of  that  nation, — not  only  in  Brazil  and  the 
Portuguese  Islands,  but  along  the  coasts  of  Africa  and  India,  from 
Guinea  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  from  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  to  the  Sea  of  China, — extending  over  almost  all  the  islands 
of  the  Malayan  Archipelago. 

How  interesting  it  would  be  to  witness  light  and  truth  radiating 
from  Brazil  and  spreading  their  influences  to  each  of  those  distant 
climes !  Before  such  an  event  can  be  reasonably  anticipated,  how 
great  must  be  the  changes  in  the  moral  and  religious  condition 
of  the  Empire ! 

The  ecclesiastics  are  notoriously  coi*rupt.  The  report  of  a  Minis- 
ter of  Justice  not  many  years  ago  contains  the  following  language : — 

"The  state  of  retrogression  into  which  our  clergy  are  falling  is  notorious.  The 
necessity  of  adopting  measures  to  remedy  such  an  evil  is  also  evident.  .  .  .  The 
lack  of  priests  who  will  dedicate  themselves  to  the  cure  of  souls,  or  who  will  even 
offer  themselves  as  candidates,  is  surprising.  ...  It  may  be  observed  that  the 
numerical  ratio  of  those  priests  who  die  or  become  incompetent  through  age  and 
infirmity  is  two  to  one  of  those  who  receive  ordination.  Even  among  those  who 
are  ordained,  few  devote  themselves  to  the  pastoral  work.  They  either  turn  their 
attention  to  secular  pursuits,  as  a  means  of  securing  greater  conveniences,  emolu- 
ments, and  reffpect,  or  they  look  out  for  chaplaincies  and  other  situations,  which 
ofiTer  equal  or  superior  inducements,  without  subjecting  them  to  the  literary  tests, 
the  trouble  and  the  expense,  necessary  to  secure  an  ecclesiastical  benefice. 

"  This  is  not  the  place  to  investigate  the  causes  of  such  a  state  of  things ;  but 
certain  it  is  that  no  persons  of  standing  devote  their  sons  to  the  priesthood.  Most 
of  those  who  seek  the  sacred  office  are  indigent  persons,  who,  by  their  poverty,  are 
often  prevented  from  pursuing  the  requisite  studies.  Without  doubt,  a  principal 
reason  wliy  so  few  devote  themselves  to  ecclesiastical  pursuits  is  to  be  found  in  the 
small  income  allowed  them.  Moreover,  the  perquisites  established  as  the  remunera- 
tion of  certain  clerical  services  have  resumed  the  voluntary  chai'acter  which  they 
had  in  primitive  times,  and  the  priest  who  attempts  to  coerce  his  parishioners  into 
the  payment  of  them  almost  always  renders  himself  odious,  and  gets  little  or 
nothing  for  his  trouble." 

At  the  present  time  Brazil  is  in  want  of  nothing  so  much  as 

pious,   self-denying  ministers  of  the  gospel, — men   who,  like   the 


Conclusion.  689 

Apostle  to  the  Gentiles,  will  not  count  their  lives  dear  unto  them- 
selves that  they  may  win  souls  to  Christ.  And  is  it  too  much  to 
hope  that  God  in  His  providence  will  raise  up  sucK  men  in  His  own 
way,  especially  when  we  reflect  that  His  own  Word  shall  not 
return  unto  Him  void,  and  that  faithful  prayer  shall  never  be  for- 
gotten before  the  throne  of  the  Most  High. 

We  might  have  unfolded  before  the  reader  many  more  incidents 
of  labor  in  our  Master's  cause  in  Brazil,  but  have,  from  proper 
motives,  withheld  details  :  we  believe  that  we  have  every  encou- 
ragement to  hope  for  Brazil  in  a  religious  as  well  as  a  political 
point  of  view. 

Several  things  are  of  instant  importance  to  the  present  and  future 
welfare  of  Brazil.  First,  immediate  legislation  in  regard  to  putting 
an  end,  by  judicious  measures,  to  slavery  in  the  empire.  The  diffi- 
culties, though  great,  are  not  like  those  of  the  United  States,  where 
there  is  such  an  unreasonable  prejudice  against  color,  and  where 
before  the  recent  rebellion  millions  claimed  a  divine  right  for 
perpetuating  the  accursed  institution.  The  Brazilians  have  always 
had  a  higher  moral  theory  on  the  rights  of  the  negro  than  the 
North  Americans.  The  economical  phase  of  the  subject  is  unques- 
tioned. The  very  best  estimates  are  that  the  number  of  slaves 
from  1851  to  1861  has  decreased  more  than  one  million,*  and  the 
statistics  in  the  Relatorios  of  the  Ministers  of  Finance  and  of 
Public  Works,  Agriculture,  and  Commerce,  prove  that  at  the  end 
of  the  same  decade  the  great  tropical  productions  of  coffee,  sugar, 
cotton,  tobacco,  &c.  had  increased  more  than  thirty  per  cent.  The 
seriousness  with  which  her  own  statesmen  are  taking  up  this 
subject,  the  openly-expressed  and  well-known  anti-slaveiy  senti- 
ments of  the  Emperor,  all  are  so  many  earnests  that  the  appeals  to 
Brazil  by  such  calm,  true  men  as  Laboulaye  (vide  Journal  de  Dcbats 
for  July,  1865)  and  Cochin  of  Paris,  and  of  devoted  friends  of 
freedom  in  England  and  the  United  States,  will  not  be  in  vain.  We 
sincerely  hope  that  Brazil  will  not  be  the  last  nation  to  hold  men 
in,  bondage,  and  that,  in  a  generous  rivahy,  she  may  anticipate 
Spain  in  wiping  off  this  foul  blot  from  her  national  escutcheon. 

Second,  suitable  legislation  should  be  immediately  had  in  regard 
to  religious  disabilities.  In  Appendix  I  we  have  given  an  article 
from  a  Eoman  Catholic  editor  at  Eio  on  this  important  subject. 


590  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

In  January,  1866,  most  eloquent  and  forcible  addresses  to  the 
same  purpose  were  delivered  in  public  meeting  at  the  Rio  Ex- 
change, by  Dr.  Furquim  d' Almeida,  whose  breadth  of  view  and 
practical  political  economy  give  to  him  something  of  the  character 
of  the  English  Cobdon,  and  of  that  American  friend  of  Brazil, 
A.  A.  Low,  Esq.,  the  large-minded  President  of  the  New  York 
Chamber  of  Commerce.  No  country  can  ever  reach  a  high  deve- 
lopment, moral,  material,  and  intellectual,  unless  soul-liberty  in  its 
fullest  extent  be  incorporated  in  the  political  theory  and  practice 
of  its  peojile.  The  speech  of  Dr.  Furquim  d'Almeida  is  a  just  and 
strong  corollary  from  Pedro  Luiz's  famous  anti-Jesuit  speech  in 
the  liarliament  of  1864,  A.  C.  Tavares  Bastos'  Cartas  do  Solitario, 
and  1.  B.  Barreto's  essay  on  Intolerance. 

Third,  it  is  highly  important  in  a  material  view  that  Brazil 
should  remodel  her  laws  in  regard  to  the  manner  of  raisins:  her 
revenue.  This  subject  is  referred  to  on  page  584.  It  is  to  be 
hoped  that  the  Paraguay  war  will  not  only  see  that  fomenter  of 
discord,  Lopez  Jr.,  driven  from  South  America,  but  that  the  ne- 
cessity for  increased  revenue  will  cause  timid  financiers  and  those 
wedded  to  old  Portuguese  notions  to  combine  with  a  few  men  of 
nineteenth-century  notions  to  carry  through  a  law  for  a  direct  and 
an  equalized  mode  of  taxation.  In  a  few  cities  there  is,  to  a  small 
degree,  direct  taxation ;  but  too  often  is  it  of  a  narrow  character, — 
levying  upon  the  foreigner,  and  having  no  general  application. 
There  are  some  men  in  the  province  of  Eio  de  Janeiro,  outside  of 
the  neutral  ground  of  the  metropolis,  who  are  capitalists  and  large 
land-owners.  The  junior  author  recalls  one,  who  had  no  family 
besides  his  wife,  and  who  informed  him  that  he  (the  capitalist) 
owned  eight  square  leagues  of  land,  in  addition  to  his  personal 
property,  which  is  immense,  but  that  he  did  not  have  to  pay  a 
penny  for  taxes,  either  on  his  real  or  personal  estate.  Now,  a 
common  road-side  shopkeeper  without  children,  having  an  income 
of  $2000  per  annum,  would  have  to  pay  to  the  general  government 
just  as  many  indirect  taxes  for  the  clothes  that  he  wore  and  the 
wine  that  he  drank  (the  principal  imported  articles  that  both  used) 
as  the  man  worth  his  hundreds  of  thousands.  By  lowering  the 
import  dues,  by  eradicating  altogether  the  system  of  export  duties, 
and  by  beginning  with  a  moderate  direct  impost,  agriculture  and 


Conclusion.  591 

commerce  will  flourish.  —  1868.     A  modified  direct  taxation  has 
been  inaugurated. 

Fourth,  there  should  be  no  exclusiveness  in  regard  to  teachers 
and  professors  in  the  higher  public  institutions  of  learning.  Ac- 
cording to  the  present  laws,  if  a  gifted  man  of  science,  being 
a  foreigner,  should  wish  to  remain  in  Brazil  for  six  years  to  teach 
his  particular  branch  in  a  public  institution,  he  could  not  obtain  a 
place:  it  can  be  given  to  none  but  a  native  or  naturalized  Brazil- 
ian. We  do  not  blame  the  Brazilians  for  cultivating  a  spirit  of 
nationality,  but  we  do  find  fault  with  any  thing  that  will  foster 
a  spirit  of  narrowness.  M.  Agassiz  was  for  years  professor  in  a 
university  under  the  auspices  of  the  Prussian  government ;. but 
Professor  Agassiz  did  not  lose  his  Swiss  nationality  b}"  serving 
under  the  King  of  Prussia,  neither  was  he  esteemed  a  less  com- 
petent or  a  less  faithful  teacher  because  he  was  not  a  Prussian. 
When  the  same  savant  came  to  the  United  States,  he  remained 
some  years  before  becoming  naturalized,  and  he  would  have  been 
held  hy  the  public  in  the  same  estimation  even  if  he  had  not  become 
an  American  citizen.  There  is  scarcely  a  first-class  institution  of 
learning  in  the  United  States  without  a  foreign  professor;  and  it 
has  worked  greatly  to  the  advancement  of  education.  This  spirit 
of  exclusion  in  Brazil  is  to  be  found  in  other  ranks  of  life  where 
the  calling  is  much  more  humble  than  that  of  teaching. 

Brazil  can  afford  this,  and  in  so  doing  will  only  be  carrying 
out  the  same  enlarged  policy  which  characterized  her  conduct 
in  abrogating  the  monopoly  of  the  coast  trade,  and  in  opening 
the  Amazon  to  the  flags  of  all  nations.  As  Brazil  is,  and  will  be 
for  many  years,  an  almost  purely  agricultural  country,  a  great 
benefit  will  arise  from  the  recent  (1867)  opening  of  the  coast 
trade  to  the  flags  of  all  nations.  The  Amazon,  which  heretofore 
has  been  jealously  guarded,  is  now  open  to  the  developments 
which  will  arise  from  making  it  a  free  river.  We  therefore  hope 
Brazil  will  do  away  with  all  exclusiveness  in  regard  to  mental  as 
well  as  material  things. 

Lastly,  red  tape  demands  the  attention  of  the  Assemblea  Geral. 
Red  tape,  to  an  indefinite  extent,  exists  in  all  the  public  offices 
outside  of  the  Imperial  legislature.  In  that  body  there  is  a  great 
freedom  from  red-tapeism.    If  a  subject  is  rightly  presented  through 


592  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

the  usual  channels,  it  goes  through  the  regulai*  parliamentary 
forms,  and  is  much  less  impeded  than  it  would  be  in  London  or 
Washington.  The  wording  of  propositions,  bills,  and  laws  is 
singularly  free  from  the  almost  endless  legal  tautology  in  the  docu-' 
ments  of  a  similar  character  brought  into  the  British  Parliament 
or  into  the  Congress  of  the  United  States.  But  many  of  the  affairs 
in  the  public  offices  are  subject  to  the  greatest  delays,  from  the 
highest  to  the  lowest  functionaries,  and  are  nearly  as  much  involved 
in  red  tape  as  they  would  be  in  Portugal  and  Spain,  or  as  a  case  of 
Chancery  in  an  English  court.  There  are  too  many  citizens,  as 
well  as  officials,  who  constantly  cry,  0  Governo,  0  Govenio;  and, 
the. government  being  expected  to  do  every  thing,  no  individual 
activity  is  developed.  Here  is  great  room  for  improvement. 
J  The  reforms  indicated  ai'e  all  very  urgent;  but  the  first  three  are 
of  such  grave  imporTance  to  Brazil  that  the  heart}^  prayer  of  every 
well-wisher  of  the  country  is  that  the  Brazilians  may  have  wisdom 
to  achieve  them  in  such  a  manner  as  shall  redound  to  her  highest 
good. 

In  finishing  this  volume,  we  cannot  do  better  than  to  give  a  literal 
translation  of  extracts  from  the  letter  of  welcome  and  of  instruc- 
tion to  some  emigrants  from  the  South  of  the  United  States,  written 
by  Sr.  Paula  Souza,  the  Minister  of  Public  Works,  Agriculture, 
and  Commerce,  in  1865-66;  and  also  a  few  extracts  from  the  power- 
ful speech  of  Dr.  Furquim  d' Almeida  on  religious  toleration.  We 
believe  that  this  letter,  as  well  as  the  speech  of  Furquim  d'Almeida, 
expresses  the  mind  of  His  Majesty  the  Emperor  and  of  the 
enlightened  minister;  and  if  all  Brazilian  statesmen,  on  this  and 
other  questions,  are  inspired  by  the  same  enlarged  sentiments,  their 
country  cannot  fail  to  make  rapid  progress  towards  the  highest 
civilization. 

Rio  de  Janeiro,  October  9,  1865. 
Brazil  is  an  immense  territory,  as  you  well  know,  bounded  on  the  north  in  4° 
north  latitude  by  English  and  Dutch  Guiana  and  Venezuela,  and  on  the  south 
in  almost  34°  south  latitude  by  the  La  Platan  Republics;  on  the  east  by  the 
Atlantic  Ocean,  and  on  the  west  by  the  Republics  of  Peru,  New  Granada,  &c.  It 
contains  all  climates,  and  produces,  if  not  naturally,  at  least  with  less  labor  than 
in  any  other  part  of  the  world,  almost  all  the  products  of  all  the  zones;  and  the 
fruitfulness  of  its  soil  is  not  inferior  to  the  variety  of  its  climate,  and  repays  with 
usury  the  labor  that  seeks  its  good  services.  Irrigated  by  immense  and  gigantic 
rivers,  almost  all  navigable,  and  some  of  which  are  now  navigated,  it  offers  the 


Conclusion.  593 

cheapest  system  of  travel,  and  transportation  for  the  exuberance  of  production 
which  seeks  other  countries  and  exportation;   immense  forests  and  wide-spread  . 
pbxins  lie  there  unprofitable,  but  awaiting  only  the  man  or  men  that  solicit  pro- 
duction from  them.     Its  mineralogical  riches  are  not  inferior  to  the  variety,  abun- 
dance, and  excellence  of  its  woods. 

From  the  margins  of  the  Amazon  and  its  confluents  to  the  shores  of  the  Para- 
guay and  Parana,  you  will  find  a  soil  rich  from  its  geological  composition,  a 
salubrious  climate,  and  a  conformation  of  surface  yielding  with  little  trouble  the 
ways  of  communication  for  the  products,  where  you  and  your  associates  may  fix 
your  residence,  adopting  this  country  as  your  home,  to  go  hand  in  hand  with  us, 
(who  receive  you  fraternally,)  in  raising  it,  by  your  energy  and  industry,  to  the 
height  of  its  destinies, — destinies  revealed  to  us  by  the  maguificence  of  its  nature. 

Our  form  of  government  differs  little,  at  bottom,  from  that  under  which  you 
and  your  companions  were  reared.  Our  President  rules  during  life ;  and  the 
presidency  is  transferred  by  inheritance;  and,  without  criticizing  what  our  con- 
temporaries of  North  America  do,  I  will  say  that  we  find  in  this  advantages  of 
order  and  stability  which  the  United  States  of  America  alone,  among  all  the 
republics,  has  been  able  to  present.  As  to  other  differences,  most  are  those  of 
habits  and  customs.  We  alike  adore  liberty  as  the  fecund  principle  for  the 
development  of  man  and  the  human  family,  and  alike  respect  governmental 
forms  as  a  guarantee  of  this  liberty. 

Descendants  of  Portuguese,  and  Catholics,  we  outwardly  differ  from  the  founders 
of  the  city  of  Providence,  Rhode  Island,  and  from  the  Puritan  Dissenters  of  Mas- 
sachusetts. AVe  do  not,  however,  differ  in  the  adoration  of  the  same  principle. 
Come,  then,  to  Brazil,  where  you  will  be  welcome,  and  can  live  well,  as  is  your  due. 

In  the  property  that  you  may  be  able  to  bring  there  is  one  kind  of  which  our 
legislation  does  not  permit  entry :  it  is  that  which,  perhaps,  may  consist  of  slaves ; 
I  must  say  more, — that  the  importation  of  even  the  free  African  is  forbidden  by  law. 
If,  then,  any  of  your  associates  possess  property  of  this  nature,  they  should  get 
rid  of  it.  This,  however,  is  not  meant  to  imply  that,  once  among  us,  they  may 
not  employ  their  capital  in  that  manner;  unhappily,  we  still  possess  slaves,  and 
trade  in  them  witliin  the  Empire,  from  one  province  to  another,  is  permitted. 

We  have,  already,  lands  surveyed  and  marked  off  in  several  provinces,  whither 
those  emigrants  who  wish  them  can  go  immediately  and  establish  themselves: 
their  extent,  however,  is  small,  and  does  not  comport  with  a  rapid  and  instanta- 
neous introduction  of  a  great  number.  This  will  not  be,  however,  a  thing  to 
cause  difficulty,  or  to  retard  emigration,  because  the  government  is  resolved  to 
go  on  establishing  the  emigrants  on  lands,  making,  consecutively  and  proportion- 
ately, the  surveys  and  limits,  giving  provisional  title-deeds  guaranteeing  to  the 
holder  the  definite  title-deeds  in  the  legal  fol-m.  The  law  does  not  permit  the  gift 
of  lands,  and  requires  its  sale;  but  the  price  is  so  low,  and  the  facilities  for  pay- 
ment so  great,  that  negligence  only,  or  complete  idleness,  will  be  incapable  of 
satisfying  them.  The  price  varies  from  half  a  real  to  a  real  and  a  half  the  square 
bra^a,  (lid.  or  21  cents,  to  2s.  8d.  or  63  cents,  the  acre,)  according  to  the  quality 
of  the  land  and  its  topographical  situation:  we  have  thus,  then,  a  square  league 
of  3000  bra9as  square  (10,764  acres)  for  a  sum  of  4500  dollars  at  the  minimum, 
or  8250  dollars  at  the  maximum  price,  whilst,  in  the  pamphlet  accompanying 
this,  Sr.  Sarmiento,  Minister  Plenipotentiary  and  Envoy  Extraordinary  of  the 
Argentine  Republic,  says  that  the  lands  of  the  Argentine  Confederation  are  sold 
at  from  10,000  to  40,000  patacoons  (li  dollars  each)  the  Spanish  league,  (about 
7700  acres.)     [N.B.  The  real  is  equivalent  to  half  a  mill  of  the  United  States.] 

38 


694  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

With  us,  as  there,  both  horned  cattle  and  sheep  produce  magnificently,  as  like- 
wise all  other  animals  which  man  subjects  to  his  rule  and  use.  Coifee,  sugar-cane, 
cotton,  indigo,  quinine,  vanilla,  tobacco,  as  also  all  alimentaceous  articles,  pro- 
duce wonderfully,  and  form  the  fountain  of  the  private  and  public  wealth  of  the 
Empire.  Foreigners  obtain  naturalization  with  facility.  The  colonist  is  at  the 
end  of  two  years  a  dc  facto  Brazilian,  if  he  desire  it.  Any  foreigner  as  well  as 
the  colonist  can,  after  two  years,  become  a  citizen  by  making  his  declaration 
before  any  Camera  municipal.  A  few  days  are  sufficient,  if  naturalization  is 
sought  through  our  Parliament,  which  can  consider  emigrants  as  importers  of  any 
industry,  or  capital,  or  those  worthy  from  their  personal  qualifications.  In  this 
last  category  you  and  yours  will  be  received,  and  you  will  be  able  to  return  in 
March,  as  Brazilian  citizens,  to  the  United  States,  to  import  your  property, 
machines,  and  industry  of  every  kind. 

If  our  advancement  is  not  yet  great,  if  our  development  is  lingering,  this  does 
not  arise  from  political  commotions,  or  perturbation  of  public  order;  the  Bra- 
zilian people,  as  worthy  and  brave  as  any  other,  are  more  than  any  other  sociable 
and  affable, — of  a  gentleness  of  disposition  nearly  degenerating  into  a  vice,  and 
which  has  even  prejudiced  its  good  reputation  abroad.  If  there  is  some  indolence 
in  our  character,  it  has,  as  compensation,  a  profound  sentiment  of  duty  and 
propriety. 

The  Brazilian  citizen  is  free  in  the  widest  sense  of  the  term:  if  in  the  great 
cities  or  towns  we  see  in  practice  all  our  administrative  system,  it  is  not  the  less 
true  that  a  great  part  of  the  interior  lives  more  or  less  well  with  part  of  it,  sus- 
tained by  that  sentiment  of  duty  and  propriety  and  by  the  tendency  of  its  gentle 
and  tolerant  disposition. 

We  are  Catholics ;  we  have  a  religion  of  the  State ;  but  we  force  no  one  to  follow 
it;  the  constitution  merely  requires  that  the  deputies  profess  that  religion;  all 
religions  may  be  practised,  except  that  they  cannot  be  in  temples  with  the  out- 
ward form.  Our  municipal  life  has  some  resemblance  to  that  of  the  townships 
of  North  America.  Every  four  years  every  citizen  who  possesses  an  income  of 
200  milreis,  100  dollars,  from  real  estate,  can  vote,  (if  he  be  not  guilty  of  an  un- 
bailable offence,)  if  he  be  more  than  twenty-five  years  old,  or  than  twenty-one 
years  if  a  military  officer,  a  priest  in  holy  orders,  a  graduate  of  any  academy,  or 
married.  The  voters  assemble  and  vote  for  those  citizens  whom  they  desire  to 
represent  them  during  the  period  of  four  years.  These  are  justices  of  peace,  and 
form  the  municipal  chamber,  that  is,  the  municipal  executive  and  legislative  power 
for  that  quadrennial  period;  the  police  are  nominated  by  the  government  of  the 
provinces ;  we  have  the  habeas  corpus  applied  to  all  cases  of  offences,  and  guarantee- 
ing the  liberty  of  the  citizen;  the  right  of  complaint  is  sacred,  and  permitted  even 
to  the  slave;  the  press  is  free;  and  the  jury  tries  the  greater  part  of  the  offences. 

Whatever  may  be  the  divergence  of  the  opinions  of  tie  political  parties  in  the 
Empire,  all  are  agreed  in  preserving  what  we  possess:  as  in  every  part  of  the 
world  some  seek  to  achieve  the  future  with  greater  rapidity,  some  with  less,  but  all 
starting  from  the  principle  of  the  rights  acquired,  which  no  one  desires  to  lessen. 

Brazilian  legislation  grants  certain  and  specific  favors  to  emigrants,  and  the 
government  of  Brazil  seeks  eagerly  to  enlarge  those  favors;  in  your  letter  you 
desired  to  know  them,  and  I,  to  furnish  them  complete,  have  ordered  the  legisla- 
tion in  favor  of  emigrants  to  be  compiled  and  delivered  to  you.  I  would  advise 
you  to  begin  your  journeys  through  Brazil  by  the  province  of  S.  Paulo.  Sr.  Street, 
a  naturalized  Brazilian  citizen,  has  orders  to  accompany  you;  and,  as  he  now 
knows  us,  he  will  be  able  to  furnish  you  all  the  information  that  you  may  require. 


Conclusion.  595 

From  S.  Paulo  go  to  Paramt,  Santa  Catharina,  Rio  Grande,  and,  on  return,  if 
you  desire,  you  can  travel  through  our«provinces  of  the  interior  and  north,  where 
you  will  obtain  data  and  information  that  will  enable  you  to  give  a  just  and  sure 
idea  of  us  and  our  country  to  your  associates,  and  if,  then,  you  resolve  on  settling 
among  us,  your  resolution  will  be  the  fvuit  of  mature  reflection  and  studies, 
which  will  please  us  more,  because  we  open  our  arms  to  you  with  fraternal  soli- 
citude, without  desire  to  attract  by  hyperbole  of  phrase,  but  only  by  the  truth 
of  fact:  then  we  will  be  able  to  say  that  there  are  no  evils  that  do  not  bring  good, 
since  the  ills  of  our  contemporaries  of  the  North  have  brought  us  good,  since 
they  brought  us  the  influx  of  North  American  energy,  activity,  and  industry  ;  and 
our  grief  at  seeing  them  divided  will  be  compensated  for  by  the  pleasure  of  the 
new  elements  of  approximation  and  union  that  are  olfered  to  us. 
I  am,  with  pleasure, 
Tours,  &c. 

Antonio  Francisco  de  Paxjla  Sotjza. 


EXTRACTS   FROM   A   SPEECH   MADE    BY   Dk.  FURQUIM   D"  ALMEIDA, 

At  ike  Exchange  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  on  the   occasion  of  forming  the  International 

Emigration  Society,  January  26,  1866. 

But  there  are  not  only  material  embarrassments  which  we  will  have  to  remove 
to  attract  a  great  current  of  spontaneous  emigration:  the  moral  ones  are  much 
more  important  and  much  more  difficult  to  combat.  They  are  the  old  prejudices 
still  encastledin  our  customs  and  in  our  laws,  and  maintained  by  a  false  patriotism 
and  an  intolerant  religious  spirit.  Powerful  enemies,  evei-ywhere  opposing  the 
most  tenacious  resistance  to  evei-y  innovation,  to  every  idea  of  progress,  these 
jjrcjudices  among  us  will  not  allow  themselves  to  be  vanquished  easily:  they  will 
struggle  while  they  have  strength,  and  will  yield  only  at  the  last  extremity.  We 
must  count  upon  a  bloody  struggle,  but  we  should  not  be  discouraged  on  this 
account ;  on  the  contrary,  we  should  invest  ourselves  with  more  patience  and 
more  courage  to  attack  them  and  overcome  them.  This  is  the  principal  mission 
of  our  enterprise. 

Moral  embarrassments  are  represented  by  three  orders  of  facts,  civil,  poli- 
tical, and  religious;  and  may  be  translated  into  civil,  political,  and  religious 
inequality  as  regards  the  foreigner  who  wishes  to  adopt  our  country  as  his  own. 

The  civil  inequality  is  quite  patent.  Our  civil  legislation  prior  to  the  law  of 
September  11,  1861,  did  not  acknowledge  marriages  not  celebrated  according  to 
the  prescriptions  of  the  Catholic  Church;  that  is,  marriage  purely  and  simply 
civil  did  not  exist:  consequently,  marriages  celebrated  between  Protestants  or 
any  other  Dissenters,  or  by  any  other  Church,  were  null,  and  for  these  the  legi- 
timacy of  their  families,  the  first  base  of  every  well-organized  society,  was 
wanting. 

The  law  of  September  11,  1861,  wishing  to  satisfy  in  some  measure  the  just 
complaints  that  were  raised  from  all  sides  against  this  state  of  things,  took  a 
middle  course,  which  does  not  satisfy  the  just  reclamations  of  those  who  ask  for 
civil  marriage,  and  has  much  displeased  the  defenders  of  a  purely  religious  and 
Catholic  marriage. 

This  law  does  not  establish  civil  registry;  it  contents  itself  with  merely  tole- 
rating marriages  celebrated  between  Dissenters  according  to  the  rites  of  their 
various  faiths,  and  by  their  respective  clergy.     But  nothing  is  changed  as  regards 


596  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

mixed  marriages,  and  they,  in  the  silence  of  the  law,  are  regulated  by  the 
anterior  legislation. 

The  inequality  and  injustice  in  this  point  are  manifest.  The  Dissenter  is  tole- 
rated merely  to  marry  according  to  the  ritual  of  his  faith,  when  civil  marriage 
should  have  been  allowed  to  him  as  a  perfect  right,  subject  to  no  restriction,  and 
to  none  of  the  many  abuses  to  which  marriage  not  civil  can  give  place.  Now, 
the  marriage  of  Dissenters  being  merely  tolerated,  the  consequence  is  that  it  is 
considered  illegitimate  in  the  eyes  of  the  Catholic  religion,  the  religion  of  the 
State,  and  the  ecclesiastical  authorities  judge  themselves  authorized  to  consider 
it  as  such  whenever  occasion  offers. 

Let  us  suppose  a  case  which  can  very  easily  take  place.  A  married  couple, 
of  any  dissenting  faith,  weary  of  one  another,  come  to  an  understanding  that 
they  ought  to  separate  and  marry  again:  they  address  themselves  to  any  one  of 
our  bishops,  abjure  their  religion,  adopt  Catholicism,  and  ask  license  to  marry 
whomsoever  each  may  choose. 

Tlie  bishop  does  not  oppose  the  least  doubt;  he  receives  them  into  the  bosom 
of  the  Catholic  Church,  and  grants  them  license  to  marry  a  second  time,  it  being 
that  the  Catholic  Church  considers  as  simple  concubinatio  a  marriage  not  made 
before  it  and  according  to  its  precepts.  Facts  like  these  have  already  taken  place 
among  us ;  and  their  repetition  must  sap  the  basis  of  family,  must  withdraw 
from  it  all  its  moral  strength,  and  implant  immorality  sanctioned  by  law. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  law  of  September  11,  1861,  regulates  nothing  with 
respect  to  mixed  marriages:  consequently,  they  continue  to  be  performed  accord- 
ing to  the  previous  legislation,  that  is,  they  are  made  before  a  Catholic  priest  and 
according  to  the  Catholic  rites  and  usages  sanctioned  by  the  civil  law.  Now,  the 
Catholic  Church  does  not  permit  marriage  between  a  Dissenter  and  a  Catholic, 
unless  with  the  condition  that  the  Dissenter  bind  himself  by  oath  to  rear  and 
educate  the  children  in  the  Catholic  religion. 

What  injustice,  what  humiliation  to  the  Dissenter  who  may  wish  to  form  ties 
with  the  families  of  the  country !  He  has  to  subject  himself  to  a  hard  and  humili- 
ating condition  if  he  wish  to  obtain  a  Brazilian  wife.  He  is  obliged  to  stifle  the 
cries  of  his  conscience,  which  clamors  that  his  religion  is  the  best,  and  to  swear 
that  his  children  will  be  educated  in  the  principles  of  that  which  he  believes 
worse  than  his  own.  Gentlemen,  do  you  know  of  a  prescription  more  unjust, 
more  intolerant,  more  absurd? 

Beyond  all,  the  worst  is  that  it  is  contrary  to  our  Constitution,  which  esta- 
blishes liberty  of  conscience,  and  is  useless  because  there  is  no  method  of  enforcing 
it.  Our  Constitution  guarantees  to  all  the  free  exercise  of  his  religion,  M'ith  the 
sole  restriction  that  the  places  of  worship  may  not  have  the  exterior  form  of  a 
temple,  i.e.  with  steeples  and  bells. 

That  is  to  say,  every  one  may  follow  the  creed  that  pleases  him,  and  may  edu- 
cate his  family  in  the  same  religious  principles,  without  any  authority  having 
power  to  call  him  to  account.  Now,  then,  shall  the  civil  legislation  remain  in 
flagrant  contradiction  to  the  Constitution  in  exacting  that  the  Dissenter  marrying 
a  Catholic  shall  bind  himself  by  oath  to  educate  the  children  in  the  Catholic 
religion?  Such  a  prescription  is  an  exaction  merely  vexatious  and  humiliating, 
without  any  practical  result,  since  our  civil  legislation  has  no  penal  sanction  for 
it.     What  is  the  authority  charged  with  its  execution? 

A  voice. — The  ecclesiastic  authority. 

Sr.  FuRQUiM. — This  has  at  its  disposal  neither  the  secular  arm  nor  the  penal 
sanction:  it  can  merely  lay  hand  on  excommunication,  which  to-day  is  worth  no- 


Conclusion.  597 

thing.  (Cries  of  No!  No!)  The  Catholic  himself  amongst  us  can  abjure  his 
religion  without  any  authority  being  able  to  call  him  to  account,  for  the  Consti- 
tution guarantees  to  all  full  liberty  of  conscience.  (New  cries  of  No!  No!)  Are 
we  perchance  in  the  Middle  Ages  ?  Can  we  be  under  the  dominion  of  the  Inqui- 
sition? So  it  might  seem  on  hearing  such  warm  and  intolerant  "No!  No!" 
Happily  we  are  in  the  nineteenth  century,  and  in  one  of  the  most  free  and 
tolerant  countries  of  modern  times.  I  can,  therefore,  speak  to  you  with  all  frank- 
ness and  liberty.  I  am  a  Catholic,  I  was  educated  in  this  religion,  I  intend  to 
belong  to  it  until  death  ;  but  my  reason  tells  me  that  it  is  needful  to  give  to  all  the 
right  of  adoring  God  according  to  their  conscience.  (Great  cheers.) 

By  all  that  I  have  just  exposed  to  you  in  relation  to  our  legislation  on  mar- 
riages, you  can  appreciate  how  much  it  is  incomplete,  unjust,  and  unequal. 

In  the  political  part  the  same  injustice  and  inequality  exist:  our  Constitution 
forbids  to  the  naturalized  foreigner  access  to  certain  elevated  charges  of  the 
State,  such  as  Deputy  and  Minister  of  State.  There  is  in  this  a  great  injustice 
and  inequality.  To  invite  the  foreigner  to  form  part  of  our  nationality,  aban- 
doning all  that  is  dear  to  him  in  his  country,  asking  him  to  come  with  his  family, 
bis  industry,  his  labor,  his  capital,  enriching  and  aggrandizing  our  country, — to 
close  on  him  the  doors  to  the  highest  charges  of  the  country  he  adopts,  is  an 
absurdity  only  explicable  by  the  circumstances  and  the  epoch  in  which  our  Con- 
stitution was  promulgated. 

We  had  just  declared  our  independence,  and  the  country  was  yet  in  hostilities 
with  the  mother-country.  The  exclusion  of  foreigners  from  certain  of  the  higher 
offices  of  the  State  was  established  on  purpose  to  take  these  offices  and  keep  them 
from  the  Portuguese.  Now  it  is  absurd,  and  has  no  more  a  reason  to  exist. 
It  is  an  odious  exclusion, — above  all  in  a  new  country  that  has  need  to  attract 
emigration  with  all  its  force. 

It  remains  to  us  to  speak  of  the  religious  inequality  in  which  the  foreigner  is 
placed  relative  to  the  native.  This  inequality  transudes  through  every  pore  of 
our  laws,  beginning  with  the  Constitution,  which  establishes  that  the  religion  of 
the  State  is  Catholic,  and  considers  it  as  a  civil  and  political  institution  which  has 
a  distinct  place  among  the  various  branches  of  our  social  organization. 

For  it  are  destined  all  the  official  honors;  churches  constructed  at  the  cost 
of  the  State;  an  important  place  in  the  estimates;  imposts  paid  by  all  the  fol- 
lowers of  all  religions,  and  of  which  it  alone  has  the  advantage.  To  other  faiths 
the  Constitution  merely  concedes  tolerance ;  it  admits  them,  but  with  a  certain 
distrust,  with  a  certain  reserve,  in  which  Dissenters  can  discern  a  species  of  con- 
tempt. On  the  other  hand,  the  Constitution  exacts,  for  the  exercising  of  certain 
offices,  the  oath  to  maintain  the  Catholic  religion.  It  is  a  new  embarrassment, 
a  new  injustice  to  the  naturalized  foreigner  who  belongs  to  a  dissenting  faith. 
Either  he  must  be  untrue  to  his  conscience,  or  he  has  to  see  himself  excluded  for- 
ever from  aspiring  to  the  many  high  charges  of  the  State. 

All  these  embarrassments,  united  to  those  we  already  mentioned  in  the  part 
relative  to  marriages,  constitute  the  most  difficult  part  of  our  programme.  The 
religious  question  arouses  serious  difficulty  on  both  sides.  On  one  hand  we  have 
to  overcome  the  prejudices  of  the  country  in  that  respect;  on  another,  the 
sectaries  of  dissenting  faiths  show  the  highest  repugnance  to  come  to  a  country 
where  their  faith  is  merely  tolerated,  whilst  marriage,  which  is  the  basis  of  the 
family  and  of  society,  does  not  rest  upon  solid  and  secure  bases,  and  in  which 
the  difierence  of  religion  excludes  them  from  certain  elevated  charges  of  the 
State. 


598  Brazil  and  the  Brazilians. 

They  are  serious  obstacles  ;  but  they  must  be  vanquished  if  we  wish  a  wide 
current  of  spontaneous  emigration  to  travel  towards  our  country.  From  the 
countries  of  the  Latin  race  and  of  the  Catholic  religion  few  emigrants  can  come 
to  us;  the  Latin  race  has  little  tendency  towards  emigration.  For  a  proof  I  will 
cite  France,  which  with  all  her  power  and  resources  has  shipwrecked  in  the 
enterprise  of  peopling  her  colonies.  The  tendency  to  emigration  only  exists  in 
the  Anglo-Saxon  and  Teutonic  races.  If,  then,  we  seriously  wish  to  jjeople  our 
country,  we  should  open  its  gates  to  all  races  and  religions,  abolishing  all  the 
religious  embarrassments  that  still  exist  in  our  laws  relative  to  Dissenters. 

By  all  I  have  just  set  forth  to  you,  you  must  have  comprehended  what  is  our 
end  in  undertaking  to  found  an  international  association  of  emigration,  and  what 
is  the  programme  which  it  should  have  in  view.  You  recognize  that,  to  obtain 
a  wide  current  of  emigration  to  our  country,  it  is  indispensable,  iirst  of  all,  to 
treat  of  removing  the  obstacles  that  oppose  themselves  to  it  within  the  country. 
We  see  that  these  obstacles  are  material  and  moral;  that  among  the  material 
surges  up  the  competition  of  slave  labor,  which  it  is  needful  to  combat.  We  see 
that  it  is  necessary  to  develop  and  perfect  our  ways  of  communication,  to  survey 
and  mark  off  the  public  lands  in  localities  appropriated  to  colonization. 

As  to  the  moral  obstacles,  we  recognize  as  the  principal  the  civil,  the  political, 
and  the  religious  inequality,  and  we  see  that  it  is  indispensable  to  reform  our 
legislation  on  marriage,  establishing  civil  marriage,  admitting  the  naturalized 
foreigner  to  all  the  ofiBces  of  State,  and  putting  an  end  to  the  ditFerences  of 
religion  in  all  that  I  said  respecting  the  civil  and  political  rights  of  the  naturalized 
foreigner. 

Our  end,  then,  is  very  patent ;  our  programme  very  clear.  We  need  to  employ 
all  the  means  within  our  reach  to  remove  all  the  material  and  moral  obstacles 
that  oppose  themselves  to  emigration.  It  is  in  this  sense  that  all  the  powers  of 
our  association  should  be  directed.  If  we  in  heart  wish  that  our  country  be 
enriched  and  aggrandized;  if  we  wish  that  there  travel  hither  a  wide  and  vast 
emigration  of  individuals  of  all  the  advanced  races  of  Europe  and  the  United 
States,  who  profess  all  varieties  of  faith ;  if  we  wish  them  to  settle  and  amal- 
gamate with  our  population,  forming  a  homogeneous  and  strong  nationality,  and 
not  constituting  in  the  bosom  of  our  country  little  nationalities  distinct  in  race, 
in  language,  in  religion,  in  customs,  enemies  and  rivals,  without  cohesion  among 
them, — if,  in  fine,  we  wish  that  our  country  fifty  years  hence  be  a  nation  on  the 
European  or  North  American  model,  and  not  an  insignificant  nation  on  the 
African,  the  Chinese,  or  the  Indian  model,  the  road  to  follow  is  this  that  we  have 
just  traced.  Let  us  follow  it  with  boldness,  with  perseverance,  with  sincere 
patriotism.     (Many  cheers  and  shouts  of  "Well  done.") 


NOTES. 


No.  1. 

Americus  Vespuctos  fiires  worse  at  the  hands  of  some  Portuguese  authors  than  Pinzon.  The 
Padre  Ayres  de  Casal,  in  his  Corograplda  BrasiVca,  urges  that  the  Florentine  "never  accompanied 
Gongallio  Coelho  or  Christopher  Jaques  in  their  explorations  of  the  coast  of  Brazil."  Gen.  J.  I.  d'Abreu 
Lima,  in  a  note  (page  8)  to  his  Historia  do  Brazil,  roundly  asserts  that  Americus  Vespucius  did 
not  accompany  the  two  navigators  mentioned  above,  (iw/aria  o  que  se p6de  negar  mm  bnas  authnridades 
£  que  elle  accompanhasse  ans  dtris  primeirns  exploradores  Portugueses  acima  mentinnados.)  It  is  true, 
also,  that  Robertson  throws  doubt  upon  some  of  the  dates  of  Americus  Vespucius,  but  more  recent 
writers,  of  equal  authority,  give  the  account  as  stated  in  the  text.  This  hesitation  on  the  part  of  some 
Portuguese  and  Spanish  historians,  in  regard  to  Americus,  is  doubtless  influenced  by  the  sentiment,  on 
one  side,  that  the  employment  of  the  Florentine  by  the  King  D.  Manoel  necessarily  supjioses  an  under- 
rating of  the  Lusitanian  navigators, — which  does  not  follow,  because  the  latter,  in  the  expeditions 
referred  to,  appear  to  liave  had  the  supreme  command :  on  the  side  of  the  Spaniards,  tliey  never 
could  forgive  Americus  for  having  supplanted,  in  the  New  World,  the  name  of  Columbus,  of  whom  they 
are  as  proud  as  if  he  were  a  Castilian. 

No.  2. 

It  is  commonly  supposed  that  the  wood  yielding  the  red  dye,  Ciemlpim'a  Brazillettn,  derived  its 
common  name,  Brasril-ivood,  from  its  being  principally  imported  from,  and  produced  in,  Brazil.  This, 
however,  is  not  the  fact.  It  has  been  shown  that  woods  yielding  a  red  dye  were  called  Brazil-woods 
long  previously  to  the  discovery  of  America,  and  that  the  early  voyagers  gave  the  name  Brazil  to  that 
part  of  the  continent,  to  which  it  is  still  applied,  from  their  having  ascertained  that  it  abounded  in 
such  woods. — Bancroft's  Philosophy  of  Colors,  ii.  316-321. 

No.  3. 

The  Padre  Ayres  Casal,  in  his  Corof/raphia  Brasilica,  says  that  the  squadron  "entered  the  Bay  of 
Santa  Luna,  which  name  was  changed  to  that  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  beaiuse  it  was  entered  on  the  first 
day  of  the  year,  1532."  Any  examination  of  the  facts  of  the  case  aa  detailed  by  almost  every  other 
chronicler  will  not  bear  out  the  statements  of  Padre  Ayres  Casal. 

No.  4. 

Diario  de  Pedro  Lopez  de  Souza.  page  14,  in  which  ho  explicitly  says,  "  Sabbado  30  de  Abril,  no  quarto 
cfalva,  eramos  com  a  bocca  do  Rio  de  Janeiro." 

No.  5. 

The  Madeira  Christians  were  compelled  to  flee  for  refuge  to  the  United  States,  in  1850 ;  and  in  1852 
most  intolerant  acts  were  sanctioned  by  the  Portuguese  Government,  in  order  to  put  an  end  to  the 
so-called  Protestant  heresy  in  that  island. 


599 


Appendix  A. 


CHRONOLOGICAL  SUMMARY  OF  THE  PRINCIPAL   EVENTS  THAT  HAVE 
TRANSPIRED  IN  THE  HISTORY  OF  BRAZIL. 


A.D.  1500.    The  continent  of  South  America  dis-  |  lo93u 
covered  on  the  26th  of  January,  by  Vincent  j 
Tanez  Pinzon,  a  companion  of  Columbus,  | 
and   the  first  European  who  crossed   the    1594, 
equator  on  his  way  to  America. 
"     April  21,  Pedro  Alvarez  Cabral,  coEmander    1615. 
of  the  second  Portuguese  fleet  that  doubled 
the  Cape  of  Good   Hope,  discovered   that 
portion  of  the  Brazilian  coast  now  called    1624. 
Espirito  Santo.  1630. 

"     On  May  3,  he  landed  at  Porto  Seguro. 

1503.  The  Bay  of  All  Saints  discovered  by  Americus 
Tespucius. 

1510.  Diogo    Alvarez    Correa     (Caramurti)    ship- 
wrecked at  Bahia,  (Bay  of  All  Saints.)  1637 

1530.  The  unexplored   territory  of  Brazil  divided 

into  captaincies  by  the  King  of  Portugal.       1640. 

1531.  Martin  Alfonso  de  Souza  entered  the  Bay  of 

Nitherohy,   (Rio  de    Janeiro,)   previously     1646. 

visited  by  De  Solis  and  Majellan.    On  the 

22d  of  January  he  discovered  the  harbor    1654. 

of  San  Vincente,  and  there  founded  the    1661. 

first  European  coluny. 
1548.  Numbers  of  Jews,  having  been  stripped  by 

the  Inquisition  of  Portugal,  were  banished 

to  Brazil.  1693. 

Thome  de  Souza,  the  first  governor-general,    leoi 

founded  the  city  of  San  Salvador,  (Bahia.) 
The  first  bishop  appointed,  to  reside  at  Bahia. 
Villegagnon  occupied  the  Bay  of  Kio  de  Ja-    1710. 

neiro  with  a  colony  of  French  Protestants, 

and  built  the   f>rt  which   still  bears  his     1711. 

name,  upon  a  small  island  in  the  harbor. 
1567.  The  French  e.xpelled  by  the  Portuguese  and    1713. 

Indians. 

"     The  city  of  St.  Sebastian  founded.  1729. 

1572.  The  government  of  the  colony  of  Brazil  di-    1758- 

vided  between  two  captains-general,  resi- 
dent severally  at  S.  Salvador  and  Rio  de    1763. 

Janeiro.     Hence  the  name  Brazils.  1S05. 

1676.  The  government  again  reduced  to  the  juris-    1808. 

prudence  of  one  captain-general,  residing 

at  Bahia. 
1580.  Brazil,  in  connection  with  Portugal,  brought 

under  the  dominion  of  Spain. 
1391.  Thomas  Cavendish,  the  English  adventurer, 

Backed  and  burned  S.  "Vincente. 


1549 


1552 
1555 


James  Lancaster,  commanding  a  marauding 
expedition,  fitted  out  of  London,  captured 
and  plundered  Pernambuco. 

The  French  established  a  colony  at  Maran- 
ham. 

The  French  expelled  from  Maranham. 

The  city  of  Belem  (Pari)  founded  by  Fran- 
cisco Caldeira. 

The  Dutch  invaded  Bahia. 

Second  invasion  of  the  Dutch,  in  which  th'^y 
took  possession  of  the  whole  coast  of  Brar 
zil,  from  the  river  of  S.  Francisco  to  Ma- 
ranham. Pernambuco  was  their  seat  of 
government. 

Expedition  of  Pedro  Teixeira,  from  Parfi  to 
Quito,  by  way  of  the  river  Amazon. 

Portugal  and  her  colonies  freed  from  the 
Spanish  j'oke. 

The  Dutch  defeated  in  the  battle  of  the  Qua- 
rarapes,  near  Pernambuco ;  and  in 

Finally  expelled  from  Pernambuco. 

Holland  abandoned,  by  negotiation,  all  claim 
to  Brazil. 

The  diocese  of  Bahia  constituted  an  arch- 
bishopric. 

Regular  mining  for  gold  commenced. 

Settlements  made  in  Minas-Gcnies. 

Destniction  of  the  famous  Republic  of  the 
Palmares. 

Assault  of  the  French  upon  Rio  de  Janeiro 
under  Du  Clerc. 

Capture  of  that  city  by  Du  Quay  Trouin,  and 
ransom  by  its  inhabitants. 

Northern  limits  of  Brazil  defined  by  the 
treaty  of  Utrecht. 

Discovery  of  the  diamond-mines  in  Serro  Frio. 

60.  Forcible  and  complete  expulsion  of  the 
Jesuits  fiom  Brazil. 

Transfer  of  the  capital  from  Bahia  to  Rio. 

Rev.  Henry  Martyn  visited  Bahia. 

Arrival  of  the  royal  family  of  Portugal. 

Publication  of  the  Carta  Regia. 

Establishment  at  Rio  of  the  first  printing- 
press  in  Brazil, 

Second  printing-press  established  at  Bahia. 

Bemark. — These  two  were  the  only  presses 
in  use  up  to  1S21. 

601 


602 


Appendix  A. 


1815.  Brazil  elovatefl  to  the  rank  of  a  Kingdom. 

1817.  Kevolt  in  Pernambuco. 

1818.  Acclaniatiou  and  Coronation  of  D.  John  VI. 

1821.  The  Constitution  of  the  Cortes  of  Portugal 

proclaimed  and  adopted  at  Kio. 
"   24th  Ajiril,  D.  John  VI.  returned  to  Portugal, 
leaving   his  son,  Dom   Pedro,  Regent  of 
Brazil. 

1822.  7th  September,  Declaration  of  Independence. 
"     12th  October,  Acclamation  of  D.  Pedro  as 

Emperor. 
1^   "     1st  December,  Coronation  of  D.  Pedro  I. 
"      "  "  Session  of  the  Assembly  con- 

voked to  draft  a  Constitution. 

1823.  Montevideo  united  to  Brazil,  under  the  title 

of  the  Cisplatiue  Province. 
'     "     The  new  Con.stitution  offered  to  the  Brazilians 
by  the  Emperor. 

1824.  March  25. — Sworn  to,  throughout  the  Em- 

pire. 

"     Revolt  in  Pernambuco.    Confederation  of  the 
Equator  proclaimed  and  suppressed. 
•  1825.  Independence  of  Brazil  recognised  by  Por- 
tugal, August  29. 

"  Birth  of  the  Imperial  Prince  D.  Pedro  II., 
December  2. 
1826.  On  the  deatli  of  King  Dom  John  VI.,  the  Em- 
peror of  Brazil,  heir-presumptive  to  the 
Crown  of  Portugal,  abdicated  that  crown 
to  his  eldest  daugliter,  D.  Maria  II. 

"  Final  separation  of  Montevideo  from  Brazil, 
tliat  province  becoming  the  Cisplatine  Re- 
public. 

1831.  Abdication  of  D.  Pedro  I.,  and  Acclamation 

of  D.  Pedro  II. 

1832.  War  of  the  Panellas  for  the  Restoration  of 

the  first  Emperor. 
1834.  Reform  of  the  Constitution,  creating  Provin- 
cial -Assemblies. 
1SS5.  Revolution  broke  out  in  Para,  January  7. 
"     Dlogo  Antonio  Feyo  elected  Regent. 


1836.  Donna  Januaria  recognised  as  Imperial  Prin- 

cess, and  heiress  to  tlie  throne. 

1837.  Feijo  renounced  the  Regency,  September  19. 
"     Pedro  Araujo   Lima  appointed   Regent  pro 

tempore. 
"     Revolt  in  the  city  of  Bahia,  November  7. 

1838.  Restoration  of  Bahia,  March  15. 

"     Death  of  Jose  Bonifacio  de  Andrada. 
"     Lima  elected  to  the  Regency. 

1839.  First  steam-voyage  along  the  northern  coast. 

1840.  Abolition  of  the  Regency  and  Accession  of 

Dom  Pedro  II.  to  tli^  full  exercise  of  his 
prerogative  as  Emperor. 

1841.  The  Emperor's  Coronation,  July  18. 

1843.  Imperial  marriages. 

1844.  The    treaty    between    Brazil    and  England, 

signed  in  1827,  expired  by  limitation,  No- 
vember 11. 

1845.  Birth  of  the  Imperial  Prince  D.  Affonso. 

1846.  Birth  of  Donna  Isabella,  (heiress- apparent.) 

1847.  June  11,  death  of  D.  Affonso. 

"     July  1.3,  Birth  of  Donna  Leopoldina. 

1849.  December,  First  appearance  of  yellow  fever. 

1850.  Sujipression  of  the  slave-trade.     First  steam- 

ship-line to  Europe. 

1852.  Overthrow  of  the  Buenos  Ayrean  Dictator 

Rosas  by  the  aid  of  the  Brazilian  arms. 
"     Ground  broken  for  the  first  railway. 

1853.  The  first  locomotive  on  the  Mau&  Railwajr, 

and  steamers  on  the  Amazon. 

1854.  Rio  de  Janeiro  lit  by  gas. 

1855.  Surveys  for  various  railways. 

1857.  The  first  section  of  the  Pedro  Segundo  Rail- 
way finished. 

1858-59.  First  section  of  Pernambuco  Railway 
opened.     Bahia  Railway  do. 

1S64.  Marriage  of  the  two  princesses. 

1865.  War  with  Paraguay. 

1866.  Opening  of  S.  Paulo  Railroad. 

1866.  March  19,  Birth  of  a  son  to  D.  Leopoldina. 

1867.  Dec.  7,  Birth  of  a  second  son  to  the  same. 


IMPERIAL  FAMILY. 
The  Crown  of  Brazil  is  hereditary  in  the  line  of  direct  succession. 

Emperor— Dom  Pudro  II.  d'Alcantara,  born  Dec.  2,  1825.    Salary,  $440,000;  and  income  from  largo 
estates. 

Empkess — Donna  Theresa  Christina,  sister  to  the  King  of  the  Two  Sicilies.    Salary  $54,800 

Imperial  Princesses — Donna  Isabella,  heiress-apparent,  born  in  1846;  Donna  Leopoldina,  born  in 
1847. 

Donna  Isabella  married,  October  16, 1864,  the  Count  d'Eu,  eldest  son  of  the  Duke  de  Nemours. 

Donna  Leopoldina,  the  second  princess,  married  the  Prince  Auguste  de  Saxe-Coburg,  December,  lS6t. 

Emperor's  Sisters— Donna  Januaria,  born  1822.    Married  to  the  Prince  D.  Luiz  Conde  d'Aqoilla, 
1843.    Donna  Francisca,  born  in  1824.    Married  to  the  Prince  de  Joinville,  1843. 

In  Portugal. 
Ex-Empress  of  Brazil,  the  Duchess  of  Braganza.  Donna  Amelia  AnonsTA.  widow  of  Dom  Pedro  I. ; 
born  in  1812. 


Note. — In  case  of  the  death  of  D.  Pedro  II.  without  issue,  his  sister  Donna  Januaria,  who  has  three 
children,  will  succeed  to  the  throne ;  and  at  her  decease  her  eldest  child  will  be  the  Monarch  of  Brazil. 


Appendix  B. 


ABSTRACT   OF   THE   BRAZILIAN   CONSTITUTION,  SWORN   TO   ON   THE 
25TH   OF   MARCH,  1824,  AND   REVISED   m   183-i. 

(1)  Brazil  is  declared  an  Independent  Empire,  and  its  GoTsrnment  Monarchial,  institutional,  and 
Representative.  (2)  The  Reigning  Dynasty  is  to  be  Dom  Pedro  I.  and  his  successors.  (3)  The  Roman 
Catholic  religion  is  constituted  that  of  the  State ;  but  the  exercise  of  all  others  is  permitted.  (4)  The 
unrestricted  communication  of  thought,  either  by  means  of  words,  writings,  or  the  agency  of  the 
press,  exempt  from  censure,  is  guaranteed:  with  the  condition  that  all  who  abuse  this  privilege  shall 
become  amenable  to  the  law.  (5)  A  guarantee  founded  on  the  principles  of  the  English  Habeas  Corpus 
Act.  (6)  The  privileges  of  citizenship  are  extended  to  all  free  natives  of  Brazil,  to  all  Portuguese 
resident  there  from  the  time  of  the  Independence,  and  to  all  naturalized  strangers.  (7)  The  law  is 
declared  equal  to  all :  all  are  liable  to  taxation  in  proportion  to  tlieir  possessions.  (8)  The  highest  oflScea 
of  the  State  are  all  laid  open  to  every  citizen ;  and  all  pri\ileges,  cxcepMng  those  of  office,  abolished. 
(9)  The  political  powers  acknowledged  by  the  Constitution  are  the  Legislative,  the  Moderative,  the 
Executive,  and  the  Judicial;  all  of  which  are  acknowledged  as  delegations  from  the  nation.  (10)  It  is 
declared  that  the  General  Assembly  shall  consist  of  two  chambers :  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  are  to  hold 
their  office  for  four  years  only ;  the  Senators  are  appointed  for  life.  (11)  The  especial  attributes  of  the 
Assembly  are  to  administer  the  oaths  to  the  Emperor,  the  Imperial  Prince,  the  Regent,  or  the  Regency; 
to  elect  the  Regent  or  Regency,  and  to  fix  the  limits  of  his  or  their  authority,  to  acknowledge  the 
Imjierial  Prince  as  successor  to  the  throne,  on  the  first  meeting  after  his  birth;  to  nominate  the 
guardian  of  the  young  Emperor  in  case  such  g\iardian  has  not  been  named  in  the  parental  testament; 
to  resolve  all  doubts  relative  to  the  succession  on  the  death  of  the  Emperor  or  vacancy  of  the  throne; 
to  examine  into  the  past  administration,  and  to  reform  its  abuses;  to  elect  a  new  dynasty  in  case  of 
the  extinction  of  the  reigning  family ;  to  pass  laws,  and  also  to  interpret,  suspend,  and  revoke  them ; 
to  guard  the  Constitution,  and  to  promote  the  welfare  of  the  nation;  to  fix  the  public  expenditure  and 
ta.\es;  to  appoint  the  marine  and  land  forces  annually  upon  the  report  of  the  Government;  to  concede, 
or  refuse,  the  entry  of  foreign  forces  within  the  Empire;  to  authorize  the  Government  to  contract 
loans  to  establish  means  for  the  iiayment  of  the  public  debt;  to  regulate  the  administration  of  national 
property  and  decree  its  alienatiju;  to  create  or  suppress  public  offices,  and  to  fix  the  stipend  to  be 
allotted  to  them ;  and,  lastly,  to  determine  the  weight,  value,  inscription,  type,  and  denomination  of 
the  coinage. 

(12)  During  the  term  of  tlieir  office,  the  members  of  both  Houses  are  alike  exempted  from  arrest, 
unless  by  the  authority  of  their  respective  Chambers,  or  when  seized  in  the  commission  of  a  capital 
offence.  For  the  opinions  uttered  during  the  exercise  of  their  functions,  they  are  inviolable.  (13)  AU 
measures  for  the  levying  of  imposts  and  military  enrolment,  the  choice  of  a  new  dynasty  in  case  of 
the  extinction  of  the  existing  one,  the  examination  of  the  acts  of  the  past  administration,  and  the 
accusation  of  Ministers,  and  of  Councillors  of  State,  are  required  to  have  their  origin  with  the  House 
of  Deputies.  For  the  Indemnification  of  its  members,  it  Is  decided  that  a  pecuniary  remuneration  shall 
be  allotted  to  each  during  the  period  of  the  sessions.  (14)  The  number  of  the  Senators  is  fixed  at  one- 
half  that  of  the  Deputies,  and  the  members  are  required  to  be  upwards  of  forty  years  of  age,  and  to 
be  in  actual  possession  of  an  income  amounting  to  at  least  eight  hundred  milreis  per  annum.  (15)  It 
is  their  exclusive  attribute  to  take  cognizance  of  the  individual  crimes  committed  by  the  members  of 
the  Imperial  Family,  Ministers,  or  Councillors  of  State,  as  well  as  of  the  crimes  of  Deputies  during 
the  period  of  the  Legislature.  Their  annual  stipend  is  fixed  at  fifty  per  cent,  more  than  that  of  the 
Deputies. 

(16)  The  Members  of  both  Chambers  are  to  be  chosen  by  Provincial  Electors,  who  are  themselves  to 
be  elected  by  universal  suffrage, — in  which  only  minors,  monks,  domestics,  and  individuals  not  in  the 
receipt  of  one  hundred  milreis  per  annum,  are  excluded  from  voting.  (17)  The  Senators  are  nominated 
by  the  Provincial  Electors  in  triple  lists,  from  which  three  candidates  the  Emperor  selects  one,  who  holds 
office  for  life.  (19)  Each  Chamber  is  qualified  with  powers  for  the  proposition,  opposition,  and  approval 
of  projects  of  law.    In  case,  however,  the  House  of  Deputies  should  disapprc  ve  of  the  amendments  oi 

603 


604  Appendix  B. 

gdditions  of  the  Senate,  or  vice  versd,  the  dissenting  Chamber  shall  have  the  privilege  of  requiring  o 
temporary  union  of  the  two  Houses,  in  order  that  the  matter  in  dispute  may  be  decided  in  General 
Assembly. 

(20)  A  veto  is  conceded  to  the  Emperor ;  but  it  is  only  suspensory  in  its  nature.  In  case  three  suo- 
cessive  Parliaments  should  present  the  same  project  for  the  Imperial  sanction,  it  is  declared  that  on  the 
third  presentivtion  it  shall,  under  all  and  any  circumstances,  be  considered  that  the  sanction  had  been 
conceded.  (21)  The  ordinary  annual  sessions  of  the  two  Houses  of  Legislature  are  limited  to  the  period 
of  four  months. 

(22)  To  each  province  of  the  Empire  there  is  a  legislative  Assembly,  for  the  purpose  of  discussion  on 
its  particular  interests,  and  the  promotion  of  projects  of  law  accommodated  to  its  localities  and 
urgencies ;  but  these  Assemblies  are  not  invested  with  any  power  excepting  that  of  proposing  laws  o' 
provincial  interest. 

(23)  The  attributes  of  the  moderative  power  (which  is  designated  the  key  to  the  entire  political  organ- 
ization, and  which  is  vested  exclusively  in  the  hands  of  the  Emperor)  are  the  nomination  of  Senators, 
according  to  the  before-mentioned  regulations;  the  convocation  of  the  General  Assembly  whenever  the 
good  of  the  Empire  shall  require  it;  the  sanction  of  the  decrees  or  resolutions  of  the  Assembly;  the 
enforcement  or  suspension  of  the  projects  of  the  provincial  Assemblies  during  the  recess  of  the  Cham- 
bers; the  dissolution  of  the  House  of  Deputies;  the  nomination  of  Ministers  of  State;  the  suspension 
of  magisti'ates ;  the  diminution  of  the  penalties  imposed  on  criminals;  and  the  concession  of  amnesties. 

(24)  The  titles  acknowledged  in  the  Constitution  as  appertaining  to  His  Majesty  are  "Constitutional 
Emperor  and  Perpetual  Defender  of  Brazil."  His  person  is  declared  inviolable  and  sacred,  and  he 
himself  exempt  from  all  responsibility.  He  is,  moreover,  designated  as  the  chief  of  the  executive 
power,  which  power  is  to  be  exercised  through  the  medium  of  his  Ministers.  Its  principal  functions 
are  the  convocation  of  a  new  General  Assembly  in  the  third  year  of  each  legislature,  the  nomination 
of  bishops,  magistrates,  military  and  naval  commanders,  ambassadors,  and  diplomatic  and  commercial 
agents ;  the  formation  of  all  treaties  of  alliance,  subsidy,  and  commerce ;  the  declaration  of  war  and 
peace;  the  granting  of  patents  of  naturalization,  and  the  exclusive  power  of  conferring  titles,  military 
orders,  and  other  honorary  distinctions.  All  acts  emanating  from  the  executive  power  are  to  be  signed 
by  the  Ministers  of  State,  before  being  carried  into  execution ;  and  those  Ministers  are  to  be  held 
responsible  for  all  abuses  of  power,  as  well  as  for  treason,  falsehood,  peculation,  or  attemjits  against 
the  liberty  of  the  subjects.  (25)  In  addition  to  the  Ministry,  a  Council  of  State  is  also  appointed,  the 
members  of  which  are  to  hold  offices  for  life.  They  are  to  be  heard  concerning  all  matters  of  serious 
import,  and  principally  on  all  subjects  relating  to  war  and  peace,  negotiations  with  foreign  States,  and 
the  exercise  of  the  moderative  power.  For  all  counsels  wilfully  tending  to  the  prejudice  of  the  State, 
they  are  to  be  held  responsible. 

(26)  Tha  judicial  power  is  declared  independent,  and  is  to  consist  of  judges  and  juries  for  the  adjudi- 
cation of  both  civil  and  criminal  cases,  according  to  the  disposition  of  future  codes  for  this  efl'ect.  The 
juries  are  to  decide  upon  the  fact,  and  the  judges  to  apply  the  law.  For  all  abuses  of  power  the 
judges,  as  well  as  the  other  officers  of  justice,  are  to  be  held  responsible.  It  is  within  the  attributes 
of  the  Emperor  to  suspend  the  judges  in  the  exercise  of  their  functions;  but  they  are  to  be  dismissed 
from  office  only  by  a  sentence  of  the  supreme  courts  of  appeal  instituted  in  all  the  provinces. 

(28)  The  presidinfs  of  the  provinces  are  to  be  nominated  by  the  Emperor ;  but  their  privileges,  qualifi- 
cations, and  authority  are  to  be  regulated  by  the  Assembly. 

(29)  If,  after  the  expiration  of  four  years,  it  should  be  found  that  any  articles  of  the  Constitution 
required  reform,  it  was  decreed  that  the  proposed  amendment  should  originate  with  the  House  of  Depu- 
ties ;  and  if,  after  discussion,  the  necessity  of  the  reform  was  conceded,  an  act  was  to  be  passed  and 
sanctioned  by  the  Emperor  in  the  usual  manner,  requiring  the  electors  of  the  Deputies  for  the  nest 
Parliament  to  confer  on  their  representatives  especial  powers  regarding  the  proposed  alteration  or 
reform.  On  the  assembling  of  the  next  House  of  Deputies,  the  matter  in  question  was  to  be  proposed 
and  discussed,  and,  if  passed,  to  be  appended  to  the  Constitution  and  solemnly  promulgated.  (The 
reforms  were  few, — the  two  principal  being  the  regulation  of  succession  in  case  of  the  death  of  D. 
Pedro  II.  without  issue,  his  sister  Donna  Januaria,  or  her  children,  becoming  heirs;  and  changing  the 
provincial  councils  to  provincial  Assemblies.) 

(30)  Finally,  civil  and  criminal  codes  are  organized;  the  use  of  torture  is  abolished;  the  con- 
fiscation of  property  is  prohibited ;  the  custom  of  declaring  the  children  and  relatives  of  criminals 
infamous  is  abrogated,  and  the  rights  of  property  and  the  public  debt  are  guaranteed. 


Appendix  C. 


The  following  lines  were  composed  by  D.  Pedro  11.,  and  written  by  him  in  the  album  of  one  of  the 
Maids  of  Honor.  They  were  doubtless  never  intended  for  the  public  eye,  but  were  obtained  through  a 
member  of  the  diplomatic  corps  at  Kio  Janeiro.  Their  didactive  character  and  great  compactness  iu 
the  Portuguese  make  a  poetic  translation  exceedingly  difficult;  but  they  have  been  kindly  and  very 
faithfully  rendered  into  English  verse  for  tliis  volume  by  Mr.  D.  Bates,  of  Philadelphia,  whose 
"Speak  Gently"  has  become  a  household  word. 


Se  fui  clemente,  justiceiro,  e  pio, 
Obrei  o  que  devia.    £  mui  pesada 
A  Bujeigao  do  sceptro;  e  quem  domina 
Nao  tem  ao  seu  arbitrio  as  leis  sagradas: 
Fiel  executor  deve  cumpri-laa 
Mas  nao  pode  altera^las.    E  o  throno 
Cadeira  da  Justiga;  quem  se  assenta 
Em  tao  alto  lugar,  fica  sujeito 
A  mais  severa  lei;  perde  a  vontade! 
Qualquer  descuido  chega  a  ser  enorme, 
Detestavel,  sacrilego  delicto! 
Quando  no  horizonte  o  sol  espaiha 
Sobre  a  face  da  terra  a  luz  do  dia, 
Ninguem  o  admira,  todos  o  conhecem ; 
Mas  se  eclipsado  acaso  se  pertorba, 
Nesse  instanto  infeliz  todos  se  assustao, 
Todos  o  observao,  todos  o  receiao : 
Logo  Be  premiei  sempre  a  virtnde, 
Se  OS  vicios  castiguei,  nada  merecei. 

P.  n. 

Dec.  1852. 


If  I  am  pious,  clement,  just, 

I'm  only  what  I  ought  to  be: 
The  sceptre  is  a  weighty  trust, 

A  great  responsibility; 
And  he  who  rules  with  faithful  hand, 

With  depth  of  thought  and  breadth  of  range, 
The  sacred  laws  should  understand. 

But  must  not,  at  his  pleasure,  change. 

The  chair  of  justice  is  the  throne: 

M'ho  takes  it  bows  to  higher  laws; 
The  public  good,  and  not  his  own. 

Demands  his  care  in  every  cause. 
Neglect  of  duty, — always  wrong,^ 

Detestable  in  young  or  old, — 
By  him  whose  place  is  high  and  strong, 

Is  magnified  a  thousandfold. 

When  in  the  east  the  glorious  sun 

Spreads  o'er  the  earth  the  light  of  day, 
All  know  the  course  that  he  will  run. 

Nor  wonder  at  his  light  or  way: 
But  if,  perchance,  the  light  that  blazed 

Is  diram'd  by  shadows  lying  near, 
The  startled  world  looks  on  amazed. 

And  each  one  watches  it  with  fear. 

I  likewise,  if  I  always  give 

To  vice  and  virtue  their  rewards, 
But  do  my  duty  thus  to  live; 

No  one  his  thanks  to  me  accords. 
But  shoald  I  fail  to  act  my  part. 

Or  wrongly  do,  or  leave  undone, 
Surprised,  the  people  then  would  start 

With  fear,  as  at  the  shadow'd  suu. 


606 


Appendix  D. 


SLAVERY    AND    THE    SLAVE-TRADE    IN    BRAZIL— ENGLAND    AND 

BRAZIL. 

[Translated  from  the  Jornal  do  Commercio  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  of  May  26, 1856.] 

It  is  Impossible  to  tindertake,  with  greater  energy  and  witli  more  hone.sty  than  our  Government  did, 
the  difficult  task  of  suppressing  the  slave-trade.  This  is  a  truth  which  cannot  be  contested,  it  being  a 
self-evident  fact. 

Notwitlistanding  the  old  usages  of  our  agricultural  and  manufacturing  industry,  which  were  actu- 
ally based  upon  tlie  slave-trade,  and  which  must  iiave  suffered  from  its  suppression,  prejudices  did  not 
even  spring  out  of  these  circumstances.  Injured  interests,  habits  broken  up,  did  not  even  raise  a  cry : 
reason  prevailed,  and  the  prospect  of  future  national  welfare  was  acknowledged,  and  the  whole  nation 
and  its  Government  did  not  hesitate  to  accept  all  the  sacrifices  of  the  jiresent.  in  order  to  leave  to  future 
generations  the  country  freed  from  this  centennial  crime,  however  painful  may  be  its  just  e.xpulsion. 

In  consequence  of  this  cliange  of  opinion  in  Europe,  and  especially  in  England,  toward  Brazil,  we 
Bhould  have  thought  that  tlie  relations  between  the  Governments  of  Brazil  and  Great  Britain  had 
attained  sucli  a  degree  of  brotlierly  esteem  that  it  might  be  wished  to  exist  between  the  official  i-epre- 
sentatives  of  both  nations  joined  by  so  many  ties  of  mutual  interest.  We  were  convinced  tliat.  seeing 
the  efforts  made  by  the  Brazilian  Government  properly  supported  by  tlie  general  opinions  of  the  people, 
the  English  Cabinet  would  certainly  give  it  credit  and  tlie  homage  of  its  sympathies.  But  the  notes 
addressed  by  the  British  legation  to  the  Imperial  Cabinet,  when  an  attempt  was  made  to  land  slaves 
near  Pernambuco,  and  especially  the  last  of  their  notes,  have  completely  destroyed  our  illusions  on  this 
subject. 

After  having  subdued  the  indignation  caused  by  reading  that  note,  considering  its  full  extent,  w« 
said  to  ourselves,  "What  can  the  British  Government  mean  when,  in  our  present  circumstances,  it 
assails  us  with  such  a  threat?"  Is  it  the  suppression  of  the  slave-trade?  Certainly  not.  If  proper 
reflection  could  not  suggest  to  that  Government  that  by  carrying  the  threatened  measure  into  execu- 
tion they  would  only  promote  and  encourage  that  very  trade  which  we  are  anxious  to  suppress,  we 
would  recommend  to  them  the  lessons  given  by  the  years  1830  to  1850  inclusive! 

Public  opinion  in  support  of  our  Government  has  strongly  sustained,  and  maintained  with  all  pos- 
sible watchfulness,  with  all  the  power  of  reason,  the  conviction  that  the  suppression  of  the  slave-trade 
is  a  true  national  interest:  this  conviction  gave  to  our  Government  an  incalculable  strength,  by  which 
it  was  able  to  obtain  the  entire  and  immediate  extinction  of  that  trade,  so  that  whole  years  have 
passed  without  any  attempt  being  made  to  violate  this  law. 

And  when  an  attempt  of  this  kind  is  occasionally  made,  it  is  always  done  through  merchants  of. 
Lisbon  and  in  Africa  connected  with  North  American  adventurers,  and  carried  on  in  vessels  from  the 
United  States;  and  even  the  BrJt-zili.an  Government  succeeds  in  discovering  the  agents  of  this  crime, 
and  manages  to  watch  and  accompany  them  and  to  arrest  them  at  the  very  moment  when  they  are 
going  to  perpetrate  it. 

And  in  view  of  tliese  facts  the  British  Government,  instead  of  congratulating  our  functionaries  and 
applauding  their  efforts,  sends  us  insults  and  threats. 

In  the  two  attempts  made  by  Americans  to  establish  tlie  slave-trade,  praise  must  be  given  to  the 
Government  of  Brazil  alone,  which  has  so  ably  succeeded  in  defeating  and  repelling  them.  England 
must  be  conscious  enough  that  with  all  her  squadrons  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  and  on  the  vast  seas  of 
this  Empire,  committing  even  all  the  silly  excesses  of  the  Aberdeen  bill,  it  would  not  have  effected 
any  thing  against  attempts  of  that  kind;  and  wlien  our  Government,  by  its  measures  and  vigilance, 
succeeds  in  obtaining  this  admirable  result,  we  find  it  difficult  to  explain  the  object  of  the  note  alluded 
to.  But  why,  on  this  occasion,  did  not  the  British  Government  act  as  it  would  do  if  it  believed  that 
insults  and  threats  are  the  best  means  to  suppress  this  trade?  They  ought  to  direct  their  threats  and 
insults  not  against  us,  who  are  innocent  in  this  case,  but  against  the  United  States. 

The  crime  was  wholly  of  foreign  origin,  and  its  authors  were  in  New  York  and  Boston.   Brazil  has  not 
arms  long  enough  to  reach  them ;  but  every  thing  that  could  be  done  was  actually  done,  and,  at  the  very 
moment  that  a  North  American  crime  was  about  to  be  perpetrated,  a  Brazilian  authority  stopped  it. 
606 


I 


Appendix  E. 


60T 


Dnt  Albion's  arms  are  long,  and.  with  its  diplomacy  and  crxiisers,  why  does  not  the  Government  of  Great 
Britain  turn  all  its  means  of  action  and  all  its  arrogant  demands  toward  the  Cabinet  at  Washington? 
Why  does  she  not  compel  it  to  prevent  such  criminal  enterprises  at  the  hands  of  its  hold  adventurers 
and  filibusters? 


Tlie  following  is  the  contract  between  a  number  of  Mina  blacks  (who  freed  themselves)  and  the 
captain  and  consignee  of  the  British  brig  Robert, — in  which  vessel  they  sailed  for  their  native  land, 
and  arrived  safely : — 

"CHARTER    PARTY. 

"Rio  be  Jaxeiro. 
"On  the  27 th  of  November,  1S51,  it  is  agreed  between  George  Duck,  master  of  the  British  brig  called 
the  Robert,  A  1.  shall  receive  in  this  port  sixty-three  free  African  men  (women  and  children  included 
ill  this  number)  and  their  luggage,  and  shall  proceed  to  Bahia,  and  remain  there,  if  required,  fourteen 
diys.  and  then  proceed  to  a  safe  port  in  the  Bight  of  Benin,  on  the  coast  of  Africa  not  south  of  Bada- 
gry,  (the  port  of  destination  being  decided  in  Bahia,)  and  deliver  the  same,  on  being  paid  freight  here, 
in  this  port,  the  sum  of  £800,  to  be  paid  before  the  sailing  of  the  next  British  packet.  The  master 
binds  himself  to  provide  for  the  said  passengers  sixty  pounds  of  jerlced  beef,  two  and  a  half  alquieres 
of  farinha.  and  one-half  an  alquiere  of  black  beans,  daily ;  a  cooking-place  and  the  necessary  firewood 
to  be  furnished  by  the  captain ;  half  a  pipe— say  si.xty  gallons — of  water  to  be  sujiplied  daily.  The 
master  is  allowed  to  take  any  cargo  or  passengers  and  luggage  that  may  offer  at  Bahia  for  the  benefit 
of  the  ship. 

"  Passengers  and  luggage  to  be  on  board  on  or  before  the  15th  of  December,  1S51,  and  disembark 
within  forty-eight  hours  after  the  ship's  arrival  at  the  port  of  destination. 
"  Penalty  for  non-performance  of  this  agreement,  five  hundred  pounds  sterling.  . 

"GEORGE  DUCK, 
"RAPHAEL  JOS£  OLIVETRA." 


Appendix  E. 


TABLES  OF  BRAZILIAN  COINS,  WEIGHTS,  AND  MEASURES. 

The  following  statistics,  from  the  consular  bureau  of  the  United  States,  were  most  carefully  made 
out  by  J.  S.  Gillmer,  Esq.,  American  Consul  at  Bahia,  and  forwarded  in  his  reports  to  the  State  Depart- 
ment at  Washington.  These  are  the  most  correct  computations  of  Brazilian  coins,  weights,  and  mea- 
sures, ever  presented  to  the  English  and  American  public. 

COPPER  COIN 
is  composed  as  follows : — 


Table  exhibitivg  the  legal  gold  and  silver  coins 
of  Brazil,  with  their  weights  in  dwts.  and  grains 
Troy,  fineness,  and  comparative  value  in  Federal 
monei/  of  the  United  States: — 

GOLD. 


DenoUtinatiou. 

Dwts. 

Grains.  ^'^^Jlut^'^ 

9 
5 

11 
6 

63^ 

l4 

$  8.20 
4.62 

10.24 
5.12 

MiKMlas 

(■20  luilreis.) 

Half  do 

SILVER. 


Deaomination. 

Dwts. 

Grains. 

Comparative 
Value. 

17 
5 

16 
8 
4 

7 
0 
914 

41 

$  1.00 
30 
94 
47 
23^ 

Two  patac.as 

Two-milreis  piece, 

One     do 

Eive  hundred  reis 
piece 

The  real  (pi.  reis)  imaginary. 

Five-reis  piece,  (imaginary.) 

Ten     "       "      (out  of  use.) 

Twenty-reis  do.      one  vintem. 

Forty       "    do.      two  vintems. 
The  latter  weighs  18  dwts.  10  grains,  of  the  no- 
minal value  of  2i  cents.  Twenty-five  of  these  pieces 
make  a  niilreis,  or  1000  reis,  the  real  being  merely 
used  as  a  numeral. 

The  above  calculations  are  not  given  as  abso 
lutely  correct,  but,  with  the  exception  of  very  slight 
fractional  differences,  they  are  so. 

PAR  OF  EXCHANGE. 
The  Brazilian  "Soberano,"  or  twenty-milrois 
piece  of  the  recent  coinage,  being  worth  (according 
to  its  relative  value  compared  with  our  gold  coin) 
S10.24,  it  follows  that  the  "par  of  exchange" 
between  the  two  countries  is  511  cents  per  mil- 
reis ;  but,  the  currency  of  Brazil  being  more  than 
one-half  composed  of  Government  paper  money, 
this  standard    cannot  be  applied  to  commercial 


G08 


Appendix  E. 


transactions  as  a  guide,  and  in  the  absence  of  direct 
exchange  transactions  with  the  United  States,  we 
must  be  governed  by  the  rate  of  exchange  on 
London,  which  either  rises  or  falls  as  influenced  by 
the  commercial  or  other  vicissitudes  of  the  day. 

The  rate  of  exchange  on  London  being  twenty- 
eight  pence  per  milreis,  by  taking  the  value  of  the 
pound  sterling  at  $1.S0  cents,  the  result  is  fifty-  ' 
six  cents  as  the  value  of  the  milreis  in  United 
States  currency. 

WEIGHTS  AND  MEASUKES.  i 

The  "  Marco"  is  divided  into 
8  Ounces, 
64  Octaves, 
192  Scruples, 
4608  Grains, — which  are  equal  to  354114  Troy 
p-ains,  or  229.400  French  grammes, — 83  lbs.  Troy 
weight  being  equal  to  135  "  Marcos." 

COMMERCIAL  WEIGHTS. 
The  "  Aratel,"  or  Round,  contains 
2  Marcos, 
4  Quartos, 
16  Ounces, 
128  Octaves,  and 
9216  Grains, — which  are  equal  to  7082  Troy 
grains, — 110.729  pounds  being  equal  to   112  lbs. 
avoirdupois. 
32  pounds  =  1  Arroba  =  32%  lbs.  avoirdupois. 
4  Arrobas  or  128  lbs.  (Portug.)  =  1  Quintal  = 
129J-<  lbs.  avoirdupois. 
13J^  Quintals  or  51  Arrobas  =  1  ton  =  17483^  lbs. 
avoirdupois. 

DRY  MEASURES. 

The  "Alqueire"  of  Bahia,  in  dailj'  use  for  com, 
mandioca.  &c.,  contains  2475  cubic  inches,  equal  to 
1.15  Winchester  bushels,  and  is  divided  into  halves 
and  subdivided  into  quarters,  eighths,  &c. 

The  "  Moio"  of  Bahia  contains  30  alqueires,  or 
"  Fangas,"  as  they  are  called  when  used  for  mea- 
suring lime.  The  "  Moio,"  therefore,  is  equal  to 
&4.6  Winchester  bushels. 


The  "  Alqueire"  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  contains  2322 
cubic  inches,  equal  to  1.08  bushels. 

(The  "  Moio"  of  Lisbon  is  composed  of  15  Fangaa, 
and  each  Fanga  of  4  Alijueires ;  the  Lisbon  Alqueire 
contains  824.832  cubic  inches ;  the  Lisbon  "  Moio," 
therefore,  is  equal  to  23.02  bushels.) 

LIQUID  MEASURE. 

Duties  are  exacted  itt  the  custom-houses  of  the 
Empire  on  liquids  by  the  "  Medida"  of  Rio  de  Jar 
neiro,  which  contains  1C2.4  cubic  inches,  142.241 
"  Medidas,"  being  equal  to  100  gallons ;  but  in  the 
different  provinces  they  are  sold  by  local  measure. 

In  the  province  of  Bahia,  oil,  rum,  &c.  are  sold 
by  the  Canada  of  Bahia,  which  contains  435  cubic 
inches,  equal  to  1.883  gallons. — one  Canada,  there- 
fore, being  nearly  equal  to  Is  gallons. 

The  '•  Canada"  is  divided  into  halves  and  subdi- 
vided into  quarters,  called  "  Quartillos,"  eighths,  &c. 

CLOTH  MEASURE. 
The  "Covado"  and 
"  Vara." 
The  former  is  equal  to  26.7  inches,  and  the  latter 
equal  to  43.3  inches :  each  is  divided  into  halves, 
thirds,  quarters,  and  eighths. 

LONG  BIEASURE. 
12  lines       ^  1  inch. 

8  inches    =  1  Palmo. 
12  inches    =  1  P6  or  foot. 

5  Palmos  =  1  Vara. 

2  Varas     =  1  Bra5a. 
935.276  Bra9as  =  1  mile,  (Port.) 

3  miles     =   1  league. 

18  leagues  =  1°  of  Latitude. 

LAND  MEASURE. 

Land  in  Brazil  is  bought  and  sold  by  the  "Ta- 
refa"  of  900  sqiiare  Bra9as,  or  3600  square  Varas, 
which  are  equivalent  to  4330  (Eng.)  square  yards. 

The  "  Geiia"  of  land  in  Portugal  is  considered 
equivalent  to  4840  square  Varas,  equal  tc  5821 
square  yards. 


JVote  for  ISGG. — The  French  metrical  system  is  now  adopted  by  law;  but  the  present  denominations 
will  doubtless  be  kept  for  a  long  time.  The  heavy  copper  money  ought  to  be  destroyed,  and  little 
coins,  like  the  American  three-cent  piece,  be  substituted,  so  that  the  immense  amount  of  paper  money 
(like  omnibus  and  ferry  tickets)  may  be  abolished.  The  American  Bank  Note  Engraving  Com- 
pany of  New  York  are  now  preparing  very  beautiful  new  postage-stamps,  adorned  with  the  head  of 
the  Emperor. 


Appendix  F. 


POPULATION. 


Nothing  is  more  difficult  to  ascertain  witli  correctness  than  the  population  of  Brazil.  No  cersuj 
of  the  wliole  country  lias  as  yet  been  taken;  and  when  we  see  it  stated  from  "  official  documents,"  it 
means  nothing  more  than  conjecture  and  approximation.  I  believe  that  the  population  of  Brazil  is 
not  far  from  nine  millions.  Thomas  J.  Adamson,  Esq.,  United  States  Consul  at  Pernambuco, a  careful 
collector  of  statistics,  gives,  in  1864,  the  latest  estimated  population  of  Brazil  at  more  than  ten 
millions.     I  think  that  his  Brazilian  authority  made  the  estimate  too  high. — J.  C.  F. 


Estimated  Population  of  Brazil,  by  Thomas  J.  Adamson,  Esq.,  remamhueo. 


Provinces. 


Free 
Population. 


Slave 
Population. 


Proportion  of 

Slaves  to  Free 

Persons. 


Amazonas. 

Para 

Maranham 

Piauhy 

Cearft 

Rio  Grande  do  Norte 

Parahiba 

Pernambuco 

Alagoas 

Serfripe 

Bahia 

Espiritu  Santo 

Rio  de  Janeiro 

Sao  Paulo 

Parang 

Pt.  Catharina 

Rio  Grande  do  Sul 

Minas 

Goyaz 

Matto  Grosso , 

Total 

Grand  total 


68,000 
300,000 
330.000 
200,000 
504,000 
200.000 
2.50,000 

1,040.000 
250.000 
2-20,000 

1,100.000 
."iCOOO 

1,000,00.) 

TOJ.OOO 

80,000 

1.^.5.000 

380,000 

1,200,000 

205,000 

95,000 


8,."507,000 
10,014,000 


1,000 
20,000 
70.000 
20,000 
36,000 
25,000 
30,000 

260,000 
50,000 
.')5,000 

300.000 
15.000 

400,000 
80.000 
20,000 
15,000 
40,000 

260,000 

15,000 

5,000 


1,707,000 


1  to  68 
1  to  15 
1  to  4.714 
1  to  10 
1  to  14 
1  to  8 
1  to  8.137 
1  to    4 


Ito 
1  to 
Ito 


5 
4 
3.666 


1  to    3.333 
1  to    2.500 


1  to 
1  to 
1  to 
1  to 
1  to 


8.750 

4 

9 

9.500 

4.800 


1  to  13.666 
1  to  la 


THE  YELLOW  FEVER  OF  BRAZIL. 
^Written  for  '•  Brazil  axd  the  Brazilians"  by  A.  R.  Egbert,  M.D.) 

In  a  publication  like  the  present,  any  elaborate  medical  disquisition  on  the  j'ellow  fever  of  Brazil 
would  be  obviously  misplaced ;  yet  in  a  work  upon  that  country  a  brief  sketch  of  this  disease  seems 
necessary. 

Owing  to  the  peculiar  situation  of  the  Brazilian  Empire,  any  one  unacquainted  with  the  country 
would  naturally  suppose  that  it  would  abound  in  those  causes  which,  in  all  tropical  countries,  are  so 
inimical  to  the  lives  of  strangers.  This  is  not  the  case,  but  exactly  the  reverse.  Lying  immediately 
under  "the  Line,"  Brazil  is,  for  its  situation,  singularly  mild  and  healthful.  Its  climate  is  delightful, 
and,  along  the  coa.st  especially,  is  tempered  by  a  cool  and  never-failing  breeze;  while,  in  the  interior, 
the  elevation  of  the  country  compensates  for  its  proximity  to  the  Equator, — thus  proving  that  climate 
must  never  be  judged  by  latitude  alone.  All  these  things  go  to  show  why  BrazU  has  been  so  free  from 
the  ravages  of  that  ■'  terrible  scourge,"  the  yellow  fever. 

Like  all  other  epidemics,  yellow  fever  hides  its  origin  in  the  mists  of  the  past.  These  giant  devasta- 
tors of  nations  have  had  no  chroniclers  to  record  their  birth  and  early  history.  Some  physicians 
imagine  they  can  find  this  fever  described  in  the  writings  of  Hippocrates;  but  they  forget  that  the 
peculiar  symptoms  on  which  they  rely  to  establish  the  identity — black  vomit  and  yellowness  of  the 

39  609 


610  Appendix  F. 

skin — are  by  no  means  peculiar  to  the  disease  in  question.  Tlie  prevalent  opinion  among  those  whc 
have  investigatod  the  subject  is  tliat  the  disease  is  of  modern  origin ;  and  some  facts  se<-m  to  connect 
it  with  tlie  slave-trade.  It  certainly  made  its  appearance  simult;ineously  with  that  traltic,  aud  some 
of  our  Southern  physicians  are  convinced  that  it,  like  the  blacks,  was  imported  from  Africa. 

As  far  as  our  knowledge  extends,  Pdre  Dutertre  is  the  earliest  writer  who  can  be  said  to  have  alluded 
to  this  '-frightful  scourge  of  the  warmer  shores  of  the  Atlautio."  lie  saw  it  in  1635,  in  the  Antilles, 
and  expressly  tells  us  that  before  that  time  it  was  unknown  in  those  islands.  In  1647  it  was  in  Barbar 
does.  Pere  Labat  found  it  raging  at  Bliirtiniiiue  in  1049.  TVe  earliest  period  at  which  this  epidemic 
occurred  in  the  territory  of  the  United  f  tatef  was  i-i  liiSn,  at  Hoston.  Since  then  it  has  been,  unfor 
tunatoly,  too  well  known  to  our  ancestors  over  the  whole  Atlaniic  coivst. 

It  first  appeared  in  Brazil  in  December,  1849,  or  January.  1850,  and  committed  its  greati  st  ravages 
in  1850.  in  the  maritime  provinces.  It  was  especially  violent  at  Par4,  Bahia,  and  Rio  de  Janeiro. 
Pernambuco  escaped.  Bad  as  it  was,  the  accounts  of  its  ravages  were  greatly  exaggerated.  In  the 
whole  Knijiire  of  Brazil,  the  population  of  which  is.  more  than  seven  millious,  there  were  from  this 
disease,  in  1850,  in  fourteen  thousand  deaths ;  and,  according  to  the  official  reports,  there  were  not 
quite  four  thousand  deaths  from  yellow  fever  in  the  city  of  Kio  de  Janeiro, — whose  population  is  three 
hundred  thousand.  Dr.  Paulo  Candido  and  Dr.  Murrilles,  who  stand  deserveilly  high  in  the  medical 
profession,  corroborate  this  statement.  Dr.  Lallemant,  an  eminent  German  physician  of  the  first  pro- 
fessional ability  at  Rio  exaggerates,  it  seems  to  us.  both  the  number  of  cases  and  deaths:  the  former 
he  places  at  one  hundred  thousand,  and  the' latter  at  ten  thousand,— which  seems  to  be  utterly  at 
variance  with  the  statement  of  all  the  rcjiorts  from  other  and  equally  credible  sources.  But,  even 
admitting  Dr.  Lallemanfs  figures,  we  can  see  how  much  less  w.as  the  mortality  than  at  New  Orleans, 
(a  city  of  one-thircl  the  population  of  Rio.)  where  in  the  month  of  Augiist,  1853,  52e9  perished  from  this 
fell  disease.  And  yet  it  has  been  represented  that  the  capital  of  Brazil  is  the  most  unhealthy  place  in 
the  world!  According  to  Dr.  Lallemant,  475  died  at  Rio  in  1851 ;  1943  in  1S52:  853  in  1S£3;  and  only 
four  in  1854.     In  1S57  a  few  scores  of  cases  occurred,  but  we  have  not  the  exact  number  at  hand. 

In  1854  the  disease  had  entirely  disappeared,  and  has  not  since  shown  itself  until  in  the  beginning 
of  18.j7,  and  in  the  month  of  March  of  that  year  it  ceased. 

There  is  little  doubt  that  the  cause  of  yellow  fever  is  peculiar  and  specific.  But  great  diversities  of 
opinion  exist  upon  the  nature  of  this  cause.  Some  consider  it  to  be  a  living,  organized,  microscopic 
being,  and  others  regard  it  as  a  species  of  ferment.  Strong  reasons  are  adduced  in  favor  of  both  theories ; 
but  nothing  is  positively  and  definitely  known  of  the  nature  of  the  cause. 

As  to  whether  the  disease  be  contagious  or  not,  authorities  are  divided.  But  it  is  now  beginning  to 
be  generally  conceded  that  it  is  not  contagious;  and  the  burden  of  proof  is  certainly  in  favor  of  this 
view  of  the  subject. 

Yellow  fever  exhibits  a  great  diversity  of  phenomena,  occasioned  by  a  variety  of  infl\iences, — 
assuming  the  particular  form  in  accordance  with  the  circumstances  of  its  appearance, — scorbutic, 
typhous,  or  whatever  the  case  may  be. 

[The  symptoms  are  then  desci-ibed.     The  writer  thus  continues: — ] 

These  symptoms  generally  last  from  a  few  houis  to  three  days,  when  they  siibside,  leaving  the 
patient  cheerful  and  hopeful.  But  this  is  a  delusive  calm,  and  continues  from  a  few  hours  to  twenty- 
four.  Then  set  in  debility  and  prostration.  In  severe  cases  the  weakness  is  extreme :  the  pulse  is  quick, 
irregular,  and  feeble ;  the  skin  is  yellow,  orange,  or  of  a  bronzed  aspect ;  the  blood  appears  to  be  nearly 
stagnant  in  the  capillaries,  and  the  dependent  and  extreme  parts  of  the  body  become  of  a  dark  pur- 
plish hue.  The  tongue  is  now  often  brown  and  dryish  in  the  centre,  or  smooth,  red,  and  chapped ; 
and  sordes  occasionally  collects  about  the  gums  and  teeth.  The  stomach  resumes  its  irritability,  and 
the  black  vomit  appears.  The  bowels  often  give  way  and  discharge  large  quantities  of  black  matter, 
Bimilar  to  that  ejected  by  the  stomach, — and  occasionally  hemorrhage  takes  place  from  various  parts 
of  the  body ;  low  delirium  sets  in ;  an  offensive  odor  sometimes  exhales  from  the  whole  body ;  the 
eyes  become  sunken  and  the  countenance  collapsed,  and  death  takes  place,  often  quietly,  but  some- 
times in  the  midst  of  convulsions. 

Occasionally  patients  will  die  of  yellow  fever  without  either  the  black  vomit,  yellowness  of  the  skin, 
or  hemorrhage  appearing. 

Instead  of  pursuing  this  fatal  course,  the  system  very  often  reacts  after  the  period  of  abatement, 
and  a  secondary  fever  sets  in,  which  may  be  of  various  grades  of  violence.  It  continues  a  varialile 
length  of  time, — sometimes  speedily  terminating  in  health,  and  sometimes  runniiig  into  a  typhoid 
form,  which  may  last,  with  various  results,  for  two  or  three  weeks  or  more.  In  severe  cases  the  con- 
valescence is  always  extremely  tedious,  and  the  patient  is  often  incommoded  by  obstinate  and  unhealthy 
sores  or  abscesses  in  various  parts  of  the  body. 

In  some  cases  the  animal  functions  seem  to  be  at  first  almost  untouched.  The  patient  may  be  walking 
In  the  streets  and  nothing  call  attention  to  his  case,  unless,  it  may  be,  an  unusual  expression  of  counte- 
nance. Upon  his  pulse  being  examined,  it  is  found  to  be  exceedingly  feeble,  if  not  quite  alsent  at  the 
wrist.     Bla-  k  vomit  aud  death  speedily  ensue.     These  have  been  called  "walking  cases." 


Appendix  F.  611 

The  modes  of  treatment  are  many  and  widely  different. — sometimes  none  of  tlie  slightest  nse. 

[As  tlie  treatment  of  yellow  fevei-  in  the  United  States  is  within  the  reach  of  all,  it  has  been  thought 
best  to  omit  meution  of  it  here,  and  only  to  insert  Dr.  Egbert's  account  of  the  Brazilian  methtid  as 
laid  down  by  one  of  the  first  physicians  of  the  Kmpire. — J.  C.  F.] 

The  prevention  of  tlie  disease  is  of  course  even  more  important  than  its  treatment.  Individuals 
who  are  unable  to  leave  the  place  where  the  disease  prevails  should  select  a  residence  in  the  highest 
and  healthiest  spots;  should  sleep  in  the  highest  parts  of  the  house;  should  avoid  the  night-air; 
should  abstain  from  fatiguing  e.xeroise,  exposure  to  alternations  of  temperature,  and  excesses  of  all 
kinds;  should  endeavor  to  maintain  a  cheerful  and  confident  temper;  should  use  nutritious  and 
wholesome  but  not  stimulating  diet;  and,  if  compelled  to  enter  any  spot  where  the  atmosphere  is 
known  to  be  infected,  should  take  care  not  to  do  so  when  the  stomach  is  empty  or  the  body  exhausted 
by  perspiration  or  fatigue. 

According  to  the  best  medical  authorities  in  the  United  States,  attempts  to  guard  against  this  disease 
by  low  diet,  bleeding,  purging,  or  the  use  of  mercury,  are  futile. — if  not  worse;  for  they  weaken  the 
system,  and  the  weaker  the  system  the  less  is  it  able  to  resist  the  entrance  of  the  poison,  or  its  influence 
when  absorbed. 

The  following  mode  of  treatment  is  that  recommended  and  pursued  by  Dr.  Paulo  Candido,  of  Rio, 
and  was  under  him  eminently  successful. 

"  The  first  step  is  to  cleanse  the  digestive  canal.  Castor  oil,  in  a  dose  of  two,  four,  or  even  six  ounces, 
must  be  admistered  without  delay,  whatever  be  the  state  of  the  patient.  If  he  obstinately  rejects  this 
remedy,  employ  citrate  of  magnesia  or  neiitral  salts  in  sufficient  quantity  to  ])roduce  eight  evacua- 
tions. This  effect  ought  to  be  kept  up  the  succeeding  days,  but  with  greater  moderation.  Neither 
foreign  substances  nor  intestinal  secretions  ought  to  be  allowed  to  remain :  they  become  the  centres  of 
poisonous  matter.  The  torpor  of  the  intestines  does  not  allow  us  to  trust  wholly  to  purgatives :  it  is 
necessary  to  administer  injections,  and  I  make  use  of  the  following  mixture : — 

"  Di . — Expressed  juice  of  Persicaria.  cut  up  and  steeped  in  water 2  lbs. 

Lemon-juice  (skin  and  pulp  cut  and  squeezed) 4  oz. 

Sulphate  of  Soda i  " 

Socotrine  Aloes 4  " 

Camphor,  and  Sulphate  of  Quinine,  each 1  drachm. 

M. — Saturate  witli  kitchen  salt. 
Q.  S.  for  two  or  three  enemas. 
"If  persicaria  cannot  be  obtained,  it  may  be  replaced  by  the  same  quantity  of  infusion  of  chamomile, 
orangi!-leaves,  or  sea-water. 

"These  injections  must  be  given  every  two  hours,  as  hot  as  possible:  they  are  rejected  immediately, 
but  are  usually  followed  by  an  abundant  perspiration;  but  the  use  must  be  continued. 

"  Hot  siiiaiiisins  at  the  soles  of  the  feet,  tlie  knees,  and  tlie  thighs,  ought  to  be  eni])loyed  from  the  first, 
coiyointly  with  the  above  remedies,  and  repeated  until  some  abatement  of  fever  ensues. 

"Friction  all  over  the  body,  particularly  on  the  abdomen,  groin,  armpits,  arms,  with  the  follo\\ing: — 

"  IX  . — Camphorated  Vinegar lib. 

Sulphate  of  Quinine 2  drachms. 

Tincture  of  Quinine 2  oz. 

Creosote 1  drachm. 

M. 
"A  drachm  of  creosote  in  half  a  pound  of  spirits  of  wine,  to  rub  the  abdomen,  arms,  and  sides,  is  an 
excellent  means  of  provoking  perspiration  and  producing  other  effects.    Tliese  frictions  must  be  per- 
formed under  the  coverings  of  the  bed,  in  order  not  to  chill  the  patient,  and  must  be  continued  for  three 
or  four  hours.     Besides  their  antiseptic  action,  they  produce  perspiration. 

"A  weak  infusion  of  borage,  sweetened,  every  hour,  very  hot,  each  Infusion  prepared  at  the  time 
of  being  taken  ;  or  of  hot  gnm- water. 

"If  tlie  perspiration  cannot  be  effected  in  two  or  three  hours,  we  must  have  recourse  to  the  tincture 
of  aconite  napel,  (monk's-hood,)  one  drachm  of,  in  two  pounds  of  water,  to  take  by  spoonfuls  every 
qtiarter  of  an  hour,  without  interrupting  the  other  means. 

"  Besides,  in  four  hours  after  the  evacuants  have  been  administered,  the  use  of  interior  chloride 
must  commence : — 

"  IX  . — Eau  de  Labarraque 2  drachms. 

Distilled  water,  slightly  acidulated  with  Muriatic  Acid 14  bottle. 

M.— 
"Take  three  sjioonfuls  of  this  mixture  in  half  a  cup  of  fresh  water,  or  simply  a  spoonfiil  of  Eau  de 
Labarraque  in  a  glass  of  pure  water,  and  take  a  spoonful  of  this  solution  every  quaiter  cr  half  hour. 

"Sugar  must  never  be  added  to  Eau  de  Labarraque.  It  must  be  saturat'  d  with  chloride,  which  is 
easily  known  by  the  smell,  and  kept  out  of  the  light. 


612 


Appendix  F. 


"  For  verj'  delicate  persons  the  dose  must  be  weaker.  All  these  means  must  he  continuous :  they  do 
not  contradict  each  other. 

•'At  the  end  of  twenty-four  hours,  the  malady  is  <ipnerally  subdued;  but  the  medicaments  must  not 
cease,  hut  the  employment  of  them  relaxed  or  the  intervals  augmented. 

'•  Kelapses,  and  that  deceitful  calm  that  is  so  often  noticed  preceding  death,  take  place  from  the 
abdominal  secretions  having  been  permitted  to  be  reabsorbed.  Therefore  the  medicaments  must  be 
continued. 

"  I  permit  no  broth,  oranges,  wine,  or  any  thing  else,  until  two  days  after  the  symptoms  havo 
disappeared  and  when  the  pulse  has  lowered  perhajjs  to  forty. 

"1  have  often  had  recourse  to  sialagogues  for  the  secretion  of  saliva:  these  are  such  substances  as 
ginger,  cinnamon,  liquorice-root,  kept  in  the  mouth.     I  advise  amateurs  to  smoke  cigiirs. 

"Tonics,  especially  the  preparations  of  quinine,  are  very  useful  in  small  repeated  doses  when  oidy 
weakness  remains. 

"  I  ought  to  add,  that  if  the  terrible  symptom  of  suppression  of  urine  takes  place,  I  give  to  the 
patient  a  drachm  of  nitrate  of  potash  dissolved  in  a  bottle  of  water, — half  a  cupful  every  half  or  cjuarter 
of  an  hour;  injections  of  an  ounce  of  camphorated  vinegar  in  two  cupfuls  of  tejiid  water;  frictions  of 
the  same  vinegar  or  camphorated  oil  of  almonds  on  the  abdomen  repeated  at  short  inten'als. 

"  I  have  no  faitli  in  bleeding,  leeches,  cui)ping,  calomel,  quinine  internally,  ammonia,  laudanum, 
opium,  arsenic,  turpentine,  nitrate  of  silver,  ice,  hot  or  cold  baths,  Ac," 

The  treatment  of  Dr,  Paulo  Candido  diflers  very  materially  from  that  pursued  by  the  prominent 
physicians  of  the  United  States,  It  also  differs  from  that  pursued  in  the  AVest  Indies,  The  reason  of 
this  is,  I  presume,  owing  to  the  different  character  of  the  disease  in  Brazil.  The  yellow  fever  first 
appeared  in  Brazil  on  the  2Fth  of  December,  IS-tS,  and  remained  in  the  country  from  that  time  until 
March,  1854 ;  in  December,  '57  it  reappeared  in  a  milder  form,  and  in  April  disappeared. 

The  following  is  a  schedule,  from  official  records,  of  the  number  of  deaths  in  the  Empire  and  in  the 
Capital,  (where  it  was  the  most  severe,)  separately,  during  each  year : — 


Pupulatiou, 

Deaths  Id  1850. 

Deaths  Id 

1H61, 

Deaths  io 
l»o2. 

De.iths  ID 
1863. 

Deaths  in 
ISM. 

Kmpire. 

Kio  de  Janeiro. 

7,000,000 
300,000 

14.000 

.      3827 

8719 
475 

9527 
1943 

8531 
853 

04 

This  table  shows  thai  tlie  disease  was  comparatively  light,  the  percentage  being  small. 

The  following  is  an  extract  from  the  "  Report  of  the  Minister  of  the  Empire"  for  1855. 

"  The  yellow  fever,  as  an  epidemic,  may  be  considered  nearly  extinct  in  tliis  city,  (liio,)  This  benefit 
is  particularly  owing  to  the  very  vigilant  sanitarj'  policy  that  has  been  established.  The  great  number 
of  ships  from  all  parts  of  the  world  which  frequent  this  port  has  ever  been  the  great  focus  of  infection 
for  this  and  other  epidemics, 

'•  Happily,  this  has  been  combated  by  the  disinfecting  measures  that  have  been  resorted  to,  and  by 
the  prompt  .succor  that  has  been  rendered  to  the  afflicted  crews,  who,  as  soon  as  the  epidemic  sliows 
itself,  are  conducted  in  the  steamer  (health-steamer)  to  the  maritime  hospital  of  .lunijnba,  where  they 
receive  the  most  judicious  and  careful  treatment.  This  hospital  merits  all  praise.  During  the  past 
year  there  entered  1027  patients,  (not  all  yellow  fever:)  cured,  1576;  died,  40.  Therefore  the  mortality 
was  less  than  '2]A  per  ceat." 

The  origin  of  this  pestilence  in  Brazil  is  a  mooted  point,  and  has  given  rise  to  the  most  conflicting 
views  among  the  best  observers:  for  example,  Dr,  Pennell.  of  Rio,  and  Dr.  Patterson,  of  Bahia,  enter- 
tain precisely  onjjosite  opiniims, — the  former  contending  for  the  indigenous,  the  latter  for  the  foreign, 
origin  of  the  disease ;  and  both  offer  cogent  arguments  and  striking  facts  in  support  of  the  opposite 
conclusions. 

The  scope  of  this  paper  does  not  admit  of  medical  discussion;  yet,  as  the  facts  observed  bj*  Dr,  Pen- 
nell are  higlily  important,  and,  as  his  conclusions  entirely  coincide  with  those  of  Dr,  Dundas,  a  short 
sketch  of  them  will  be  given. 

They  state  that  for  some  years  the  fevers  of  the  country  had  been  clearly  changing  their  character, 
and  the  genuine  remittent  had  been  little  seen  for  three  years;  that  it  was  replaced  in  1847,  '48,  and 
'49,  by  a  fever  of^its  own  chiss,  popularly  known  as  the  "Polka  fever,"  but  in  reality  a  remittent; 
and  that  this  fever  was,  in  its  turn,  superseded  by  the  yellow  fever,  a  disease  with  similar  features. 

Coincident  with  these  and  other  changes  in  the  iliseases  of  Brazil,  the  climate  in  its  broad  features 
had  altered  strangely.  Thunder-storms— formerly  of  daily  occurrence  at  a  certain  hour,  so  that 
appointments  for  business  or  pleasure  were  made  in  reference  to  them  as  to  taking  jilace  ''before"  oi 
'■after'  the  shower  during  the  summer — are  now  but  seldom  heard.  There  was,  too.  at  the  commence- 
ment and  during  the  continuance  of  the  pestilence,  a  stagnation  and  want  of  elasticity  in  the  atmosphere, 
Irom  the  cessation  to  a  great  degree  of  the  fresh  and  regular  winds  from  the  sea, — a  change  very  per 
ceptible  and  veiy  ojjpressive. 


I 


Appendix  F.  613 

Tlie  snpportersof  the  theory  of  the  foreign  origin  of  yellow  fever  insist  that  it  was  imported  liy  a  certain 
eb>p  from  New  Orleans  to  Bahia,  (some  say  to  Periiambuco,)  and  thence  ditl'used  throughout  the  Empire. 
Some  of  them  urge  that  it  was  imported  from  Africa  by  slave-ships,  whilst  the  fa-ts  adiiuced  by  Dr. 
Pennell  go  far  to  establish,  as  already  stated,  its  indigenous  parentage.  Dr.  Dundas  says  that  in  support 
of  this  opinion  we  have  the  strong  additional  fact  that  for  the  last  forty  years  there  has  e.\itited,  uncon- 
trolled by  any  efficient  quarantine-laws,  an  extensive  intercourse  with  the  United  States,  Africa,  and 
the  West  Indies, — the  very  hotbeds  of  yellow  fever, — and  yet  up  to  1S49  Brazil  remained  perfectly 
heiilthy.  Can  we  then  in  reason  believe,  if  the  disease  be  deemed  really  importable,  that  the  maritime 
cities  of  Brazil  could,  under  such  circumstances,  have  escaped  infection  for  a  period  of  forty  years  ?  Though 
it  is  usual  to  say  that  no  epidemic  has  visited  Brazil,  yet  several  of  the  older  writers,  as  Bocha  Pita  iu 
1666,  P6re  Labat  in  16S6,  and  Fereira  da  Rosa  in  1694,  have  recorded  the  appearance  of  epidemics  closely 
resembling  the  yellow  fever,  which,  after  persisting  for  some  years,  and  desolating  some  of  the  large 
cities  on  the  coast,  finally  passed  away. 

Drs.  Pennell  and  Dundas  conclude,  from  the  above  and  other  facts,  that  the  yellow  fever,  which 
recently  afflicted  Brazil,  is  not  an  imported  disease,  but  owes  its  origin  to  certain  obscure  atmospheric 
disturbances,  embracing  variations  of  temperature,  hygrometric  influence,  electrical  tension,  atmospheric 
pressure.  &c.:  and,  judging  from  the  previous  history  of  Brazil,  we  believe  that  these  unfavorable  con- 
ditions are  but  temiiorary :  and  we  are  rejoiced  to  be  able  to  hope  that  the  disease  has  nearly  passed 
away,  that  Brazil  will  maintain  its  character  of  unparalleled  salubrity  among  the  tropical  regions  of 
the  globe,  and  will  deserve  its  title  of  '•  the  Italy  of  the  New  World." 

The  following  statements  will  show  the  greater  healthfulness  of  Brazil  as  compared  with  the  United 
States. 

In  1S47,  in  New  Orleans,  there  were  2252  deaths  from  yellow  fever.    The  popidation  was  about  90.000. 

In  1853.  there  were,  from  May  26  to  October  22,  8406  deaths  from  the  yellow  fever.  The  population 
of  the  city  was  more  than  100,000;  but,  owing  to  so  many  having  fled,  it  wiis  estimated  that  not  more 
than  50,000  people  were  in  the  city  during  the  prevalence  of  the  epidemic. 

In  1854.  there  were  nearly  14,000  cases  of  yellow  fever  in  New  Orleant;  from  July  14  to  October  15, 
there  were  2420  deaths  from  this  cause,     The  population  was  about  102,000. 

In  Mobile,  during  the  year  1853,  there  were,  from  August  1  to  September  16,  611  deaths  from  yellow 
fevev.     Population  of  the  city,  12,500. 

In  Natchez,  in  1853,  there  were,  from  July  17  to  September  20,  263  deaths  from  yellow  fever.  Popu- 
lation, 5000,  of  which  only  2000  remained  in  the  city. 

In  Charleston,  in  1854,  there  were  from  fifteen  to  twenty  deaths  daily  during  the  height  of  the  disease. 
Population,  29,000. 

In  Galveston,  in  1854,  there  were  from  fourteen  to  fifteen  deaths  daily.    Population,  7000. 

In  Savannah,  during  the  year  1854,  from  August  23  to  October  17,  there  were  919  deaths  from  yellow 
fever.  Population,  11,000.  Three-fourths  of  the  population  fled  to  the  country:  the  roads  a  few  miles 
from  the  city  were  iine<l  with  tlie  tents  of  the  fugitives. 

In  general,  it  hag  been  found  that  from  one-half  to  two-thirds  of  the  population  flee  from  the  cities 
in  the  United  States  when  any  severe  epidemic  prevails;  and  this  must  be  born  in  mind  whilst  reading 
the  above  data. 

In  the  terrible  scourge  at  Norfolk  and  Portsmouth,  Va.,  in  1855,  45  per  cent,  of  the  whole  popula- 
tion died  from  j'ellow  fever.  The  city  was  nearly  deserted,  there  being  scarcely  a  sufticient  number  to 
take  care  of  the  sick.    The  duration  of  the  disease  was  one  hundred  and  twenty-seven  days. 

Now.  compare  tliese  data  with  the  table  before  mentioned,  and  we  immediately  see  the  comparative 
immunity  of  Brazil  from  the  yellow  fever  even  during  its  most  fatal  visits.  Under  such  circumstances 
further  ciimments,  so  far  as  comparison  with  the  United  States  is  concerned,  are  useless. 

It  is  very  probable  that  the  mildness  of  the  climate  may  have  exerted  a  greatly  modifying  influenr* 
upon  the  disp;ise,  rendering  it  less  severe  and  less  fatal. 

In  writing  the  above  article  we  do  not  profess  to  have  done  any  thing  more  than  to  have  mads 
a  mere  compilation  from  dilferent  authorities  and  arranged  them  to  suit  our  purpose.  We  therefore, 
whatever  may  be  the  merit  of  the  iiroduction,  disclaim  all  originality. 

The  authorities  we  have  been  enabled  to  consult,  and  from  which  we  have  drawn  our  maUrid,  are  as 
f  illows. — 

Medical  News  and  Library  for  1853  and  1854. 

Dr.  WoDil's  Practice  of  Medicine. 

New  Orleans  Medical  and  Surgical  Journal  for  1853. 

Report  of  the  Minister  of  the  Empire  of  Brazil. 

Harper's  New  Monthly  Magazine,  1857. 

Sketches  of  Brazil,  (a  medical  work.)  by  Robert  Dundas,  M.D.,  Supt.  of  the  British  Ilaspital  at  Bahia, 

Cunseils  contre  la  propagation  de  la  fievre  jaune,  by  Dr.  Paulo  Candido,  Pio  de  Janeiro. 

And  the  Keport  of  Dr.  Lallemant,  of  Rio  de  Janeiro. 


Appendix  G. 


The  following  staterreut  shows  the  annual 
aggregate  imports  into  Jirazil  from  foreign  coun- 
tries, in  cuntos  de  reis.  (A  couto  =  £112  10s. 
excli.  27 rf.  per  ISOOO.) 


1840-41.. .57,727 
1811-42. ..56.010 
1842-43.. .50,a39 
184;i-44...5S.28;J 
1844-45...57,228 


1815-46.. .52,193 
1846-47. ..55,740 
1847-48...47,349 
1S4S-49... 51,569 
1849-50... 59,165 


1850-51. ..76,918 
1S51-52... 92,800 
1852-53...  87 ,336 
1863-54..  84,^&3 
1854-55...84,7S0 


Annual  statement  of  exports  from  Brazil,  from 
1841  to  1855.     (In  contos  de  reis.) 


1840-41...41,670 
1841-12. ...39,084 
1S42-43... 41,039 
1S4:;-14... 43,800 
1844-16... 47,054 


184.5^6...  53,630 
1846-47...62,449 
1847-48... 67,926 
1848-49...  66,7  89 
1849-50. ..55,032 


1850-51...67,7&8 
1851-52. ..66,640 
1852-53...73,644 
1853-54...76,843 
1854-55...UO,570 


Statement  of  principal  exports  in  four  periods  of  five  years  each,  and  in  lS63-61f 
The  Canada  is  nearly  two  gallons;  the  arroba,  32|  lbs.  avoirdupois. 


Rum 

Cotton 

Rice 

Sugar 

Hair 

Cac.io 

Coffee 

Hidfs,  salted... 

Ilides,  dry 

bianiond.-s 

Tobacco  

India-Rubber.. 

Mate 

Gold  (bullion). 
Sars.iparilla.... 


canadas 
arrobas 


number 
arrolia 
(litavas 
arrobas 


oitavas 
ariolias 


1st  Period. 

1844-5  to  '48-9. 

Average. 


2,709,669 

714,959 

291,262 

7,591,«85 

31,740 

190,203 

7,873.952 

680,028 

675,283 

632 

326,343 

38,336 

254,474 

194,f.08 

3,469 


2d  Period. 

1849-50  to  '53-4. 
Average. 


2,651,8::0 
956,237 
256,865 

8,652,262 
47,0S1 
276,606 

8,850,1S3 
512,078 
533,663 
6,3&t 
499,204 
105,781 
404,221 
195,756 
5,003 


3d  Period. 

1863-4  to  '57-5 
Average. 

2,847,935 
979,365 

7,765,695 
44,637 
223,058 
11,224,544* 

498,884 
448,498 

548,504" 

143,130 

461,962 

75,401 


4th  Period. 

1858-9  to  '62-3. 

Average. 


2,313.782 
846,934 

"'8,'364,9'l8" 
40,381 
273,746 
10,933,697* 

634,454 
369,748 

'693,126" 

161,380 
549,615 
370,8f6 


1,784,993 
1,297,228 

7,941,310 
62,786 
284,190 

8,183,293* 
764,:!36 
445,625 

"907 ,21 8 

232,288 

719,069 

31,898 


*  Average  lor  these  two  periods  is  much  affected  by  the  partial  destruction  of  the  coffee-trees  by  an 
insect  in  1861-62.  In  the  year  1860-61  there  was  the  greatestcrop  ever  raised  in  Brazil.  It  amounted 
to  14,585,268  arrol)as.  In  "the  year  1866  no  less  than  9,584,611  arrobas  of  coffee  were  exported  from  Kio 
and  Santos  alone:  so  that  there  is  a  great  gain  on  1863-64. 

Sialement  of  principal  imports  in  four  periods  of  fioe  years  each,  and  the  year  ISGSSli- 


Cotton  (manufactured) 

Wool...  "  

Linen..  "  

Si.k "  

Mixed..  "  

Wines 

Flour  (Wheat) 

Hardware 

Salt  Fish 

Crockery,  porcelain,  and  cut  glasses., 

Specie 

Salt 

Butter 

Machinery 

Drugs 

Tea 


Copper 

Coal 

Furniture 

Ar7iis 

Boots  and  Shoes., 
Beef  and  Pork  .... 

Oil 

Spirits,  distilled.. 
Powder 

6M 


Avernge. 
1844-45  to 
1 848-49. 


Value  in 

Contos. 

16,781 

2.926 

1,905 

1,287 

1.571 

3,058 

3,457 

2,193 

1.212 

932 

2,050 

796 

1,186 

213 

467 

277 

398 

642 

163 

206 

314 

750 

608 

400 

241 


Average. 
1849-50  to 
1853-54. 


Value  in 

Contos. 

26,446 

4,821 

2,510 

1,892 

2,222 

3,321 

4,:«0 

3,256 

1..5S4 

1,403 

6,929 

687 

1,394 

242 

724 

404 
1,008 
115 
.316 
329 

566 

467 
330 


Average. 
1843-51  to 
1857-58. 


Value  in 
Contos. 
30,350 
6.116 
2,638 
2,730 
4,127 
3,145 
5,496 
4,371 
2,867 
1,880 
7,686 

853 
1,571 

277 
1,094 


1,458 


696 
890 


Average.  > 
1858-59  to     1F6.3-64. 
1862-63.   , 


Value  in 
Contos. 
30,501 
4.963 
2,616 
2,865 
2,670 
4,608 
7,679 
6,167 
2,773 
1,712 
4,376 
1,026 
2,149 
796 
1,456 


2,540 


1,014 
1,661 


Value  in 
Contos. 
23,970 
4,401 
2,992 
2,350 
2,735 
5,632 
4,142 
4,797 
1,383 
1,462 
19,P,07 
1,326 
1,940 
621 
1,498 


1,833 


1,122 
1,665 


Appendix  G. 


615 


The  importation  of  Brazil  in  three  periods  was 
made  by  the  principal  importers  as  follows  : — 


Great  Britain  &  Possessions 

France  and  Possessions 

Portuijal  and  Possessions ... 

Spain  and  Possessions 

United  States 

Hanseatic  Cities 

River  La  Plata 

Belgium 

Chile 

Sardinia  (Italy  after  1860) .. 

Austriii, 

Others 


1841-5 

1854-5 

contos 

contos 

30,50.3 

45,450 

7,4  n 

9,978 

4,552 

6,46S 

737 

1,230 

5,703 

6,9ai 

2,725 

4,884 

1,711 

4,217 

868 

1,671 

92 

1,128 

328 

755 

475 

2eo 

2,093 

1,648 

57,228 

84,780 

contos. 

64,838 

23,110 

6,346 

2,250 

6,259 

5,453 

9,062 

1,805 

146 


2,222 


The  exports  of  Brazil  were  made 
To 


Great  Britain  &  Possessions 

France  and  Possessions 

Portugal  and  Possessions... 

Spain  and  Possessions 

United  States 

Hanseatic  Cities 

River  La  Plata 

Belgium 

Chile 

Sardinia  (Italy  after  I860)... 

Austria 

Others 


1844-5 


contos 
11,306 
2,462 
4,216 

697 
9,210 
4,844 
2.427 
1,612 

165 
1,072 
3,125 
5,91N 


1854-5  1863-4. 


contos 

29,274 

8,172 

4,649 

877 

23,807 

6,675 

4,175 

2,783 

1,479 

1,217 

1,624 

5,838 


47.054   90,570  129,470 


contos. 

52,485 

17,060 

6,662 

4,316 

21,666 

1,184 

4,014 

020 

1,188 

565 

764 

18,946 


N.B.— A  conto  of  reis  (1000$)  =  £112  lOs. 


Flour  exported  from  the  United  States  to  Brazil. 


1855-56 386,306  bbls. 

1856-57 498,264     " 

1857-58 531,796     " 

1S58-59 484,355     " 

1S59-60 507,544     " 


1860-61 427,161  bbls. 

1861-62 376,315     " 

186-2-63 410,094     " 

1^6.3-64 410..S62     " 

1864-65 362,066     « 


Total  ...1,986,498 
Average  397,299 


Total  ...2,408,265 
Average  481,653 

Flour  formerly  paid  3  milreis  perbbl.  in  Brazil, 
but  since  1858  only  900  reis. 


Coffee  imported  into  the  United  States  f rem,  Brazil. 


1855-56.. .1,094.838  bags. 
1856-67. ..1,254,939      " 
1857-58...    898,421      " 
185S-59...1,202,190      " 
1859-60...    979,498      " 


Total 5.429.8S6 

Average.l.0S5,977 


1860-61. ..1,137 ,088  bags. 
1861-62...    567,146      '• 
1862-63...    366.908      " 
1863-64...    674,182      " 
1864-65...    474,843      " 


Total 3,120.167 

Average.   624,033 


In  former  times  coffee  was  admitted  free  into 
the  United  States,  but  now  pays  a  duty  of  5  cents 
a  pound,  which  is  a  very  heavy  tax  upon  it;  and  it 
is  believed  that,  if  the  duty  was  reduced,  coffee 
would  be  more  largely  imported,  and  the  revenue 
would  not  suffLT.  Brazil  should  reciprocate  such 
a  reduction  by  removing  her  export  duty. 


The  four  principal  articles  of  export  from  Brazil 
in  twenty-four  years.    Arroba  ^  32  As. 

Cotton.  Coffee.  Sugar, 

(arrobas.)        (arrobas.)        (arrobaa.) 

1840-41 691,875 5,059,223 6,698,.39l 

1841-12 639,580 5,.565,325 4.817.577 

1842-43 685,149 5,897,556 5,209^21 

1843-44 814,255 6,294,281 5,682,980 

1844-45 826,445 6,229.277 7,476,286 

1845-46 646,.345 7,034,582 7,110,804 

1846-17 606,882 7,947,753 6,963,960 

1847-48 639^88 9,307,292 7,409,.349 

1848-49 843,416 8,354,840 8,801,616 

1849-50 1,103,314 5,935,817 7,993,986 

1850-51 883,440 10,148,268. 9,907,860 

1851-52 898,250 9,544,858 7,480,099 

18.52-53 997,908 9,923,982 10,681,344 

18.5.3-54 892,27.3 8,698,036 8,258,378 

1864-65......    869,960 13.027,526 7,951,422 

185.5-56 1,024,801 11,651,806 7,448.582 

1856-57 1,088,025 13,026,299 7,670,430 

1857-58 1,014,550 9,719,054 7,257,758 

18.58-69 7.51,348 11,168.110 10,506,245 

1859-eO 854,624 10,307,293 6,735,070 

1860-61 670,860 14,585,258 tMo1,188 

1861-62 872,210 9,880,924 10,571,970 

1862-63 1,085,628 8,716,836 9,345,371 

1S63-64 1.297,228 8,183,293 7,794,310 

1864-65 *655,374 

*  First  six  months. 

■f-  One  portion  of  the  crop  in  Bahia  (one  of  the 
largest  producers)  for  1860-61  has  not  been  ren- 
dered. The  demand  for  cotton  since  1862  baa 
diminished  the  production  of  sugar. 

Estimates  of  expenditures  for  1S66-67. 

Ministry  of  Empire 5,100  contos. 

"  Justice 3,139  " 

"  Naw 7,975  " 

War". 14,583  " 

"  Foreign  Aflaire 848  " 

FiiiJince 18,042  " 

"  Agriculture,   Public 

Works,  &  Commerce.  9,185  " 

Total 58,875        " 

Estimated  receipts 55,000        " 

Deficit 3,875        " 

The  internal  funded  debt  up  to  March,  1865,  was 
as  follows : — 

Contos 78,419. ..at  6  per  cent. 

'•       l,837...at  5        " 

"       119. ..at  4        " 

Total 80,376 

Debt  not  converted 466 

Treasury  notes  in  circula- 
tion  12,400 

Total 93,242 

External  debt 70,640 

Grand  total 163,882  -  £18,337,500 

The  Government  paper  money  circulating  in 
Brazil,  which  in  1855  was  45,000  contos,  has  been 
reduced  to  29,094  contos. 


[The  various  tables,  with  a  single  exception,  of 
Appendix  G  were  prepared  with  great  care  by  M. 
le  Chevalier  d'Agniar,  Brazilian  Consul  at  New 
York.] 


616 


Appendix  G. 


The  following  on  the  Internal  and  Foreign  Debt  of  Brazil  was  published  in  January,  1866,  by 

Henry  Nathans,  Esq.,  Broker,  at  Riode  Janeiro. 

INTERNAL  DEBT  OF   BRAZIL. 

Total  emission  of  6  per  cent.  Stock 86,752:400$ 

5  per  cent.      "     1,384:400$ 

4  per  cent.      "     119:600$ 

88,256:400$ 

Redeemed. 

Of  six  per  cent,  emission 3,672:000$ 

•'  five   "        "  "        161:200? 

"four"        "  "        $      3,833:200$ 

Total  emission  in  circulation 84,423:200$ 

In  80,793  Bonds  of  l.OOCS  each  6  per  cent 80,793:000$ 

"       885        "      "      800$      "     6  per  cent 708:000$ 

"    1,577        "     "      600$      "     6  per  cent 946:200$ 

"    1,683       "      "      400$     "     6  per  cent 633:200.j 

83,080:40(« 

"   601   "   "1:000$   "  5  per  cent 691:000$ 

"   487   "   "  600$   "  5  per  cent 292:000$ 

•'   600   "   "  400$   "  5  per  cent 240:000$ 

1,223:200$ 

"        113        "      "1:000$      "    4  per  cent 113:000$ 

»         11        "      "     600$      "    4  per  cent -. 6:600$         119:600$ 

84,423:200$ 

Of  this  amount  there  are  possessed  by  religious  charitable  establishments,  life-insu- 
rance companies,  &c 17,048:200$ 

which,  with  the  exception  of  3  and  4,000:000$,  will  finally  revert  to  the  country:  the 
remainder  will  only  find  its  way  on  the  market  if  extraordinary  mortality  should  occur. 

The  banks  hold  either  for  their  own  account  or  hypothecation 851:400$ 

FOREIGN    DEBT   OF   BRAZIL. 


Real  Value. 

Nominal 
Talue. 

Redeemed. 

Nominal 

Value  in 

Circulation. 

Loan  of  1839 

£312,512 

954,260 

508,000 

3,300,000 

1,425,000 

475,000 
400,000 
135,000 

£411,200 
1,040,600 
508,000 
3,855,300 
1,526,600 

I     1,373,000 

£94,400 

170,700 

89,900 

37,800 

248,800 

125,900 

£316,800 

"       1852 

866,900 

"      1859 

418,100 

"      1,S6;} 

3,817,500 

May  19,  1858 

1,277,700 

Mar.  15  1860 

Account  of  Pernambuco  Railroad 

Account  of  Mucury  Colony 

1,247,100 

October  19, 1865 

7,709,762 
5,000,000 

8,714,600 
6,943,613 

767,500 

7,947,100 
6,963,613 

£12,709,762 

£15,678,213 

767,500   *£14.910.713 

THE  ABOVE  WILL   F.\LL   DOE   AS   FOLLOWS: 

Loan  of  1839  in  1869  emitted  at  5   per  cent. 
1852  in  1882        "  4^ 

(a)   1859  in  1879        "  5  " 

(6)   1858  in  1888        "  4i        " 

(c)    1860  in  1890        "  4i        " 

1863  in  1893        "  4^        " 

1866  in  1902        "  5  " 

(a)  In  1859  the  loan  of  1829  matured,  and,  the  Bonds  being  then  at  par,  new  Bonds  were  given  in 
exchange  at  same  price  and  interest  as  the  old  ones. 

(6)  and  (c)  These  two  loans  were  raised  for  the  benefit  of  Dom  Pedro  II.  Railway,  Pernambuco 
Railway,  Carri.ige  Road  of  Uuiao  e  Industria  and  Mucury  Colony.  All  of  these  companies,  with  tha 
pxctptiou  of  lbs  Pernambuco  line,  are  now  Government  property;  and  her  quota  of  these  loans  is 
£400,000. 

The  amortization  of  loans  herein  given  is  calculated  till  1865,  and  in  March,  1866,  only,  can  the 
exact  amount  be  ascertained.    The  amortization  is  as  follows : — 

1  per  cent,  for  loans  of  1839,  1852,  1859,  1865. 

2  "  "        "  1858  and  1860. 
1  65-100        "        "  1863. 


*  It  will  be  seen  that  Mr.  Nathans  makes  the  grand  total  of  Brazil's  indebtedness  over  six  million  ponndg 
Bterling  more  than  Chevalier  d'Aguiar,  who  puts  it  at  £I8,.'«7,')<H).  This  apparent  discrepancy  is  reconciled  by 
idding  the  new  loan  of  £5,000,000,  made  October  19,  1865.— J.  C.  F. 


Appendix  H. 


RECENT   DISCOVERIES   OF   COAL   IN   BRAZIL. 

(From  "  The  Anglo-Brazilian  Times,"  of  July  8, 1865.) 
LETTER  FROM  PROFESSOR  AGASSIZ. 

Our  readers  are  aware  that  since  this  illustrious  stranger  arrived  in  Rio 
he  has  not  been  for  a  moment  at  rest.  Whilst  his  assistants  have  been,  each  in 
his  special  department,  working  towards  the  attainment  of  the  object  which  they 
have  in  view  in  Tropical  America,  the  professor  himself  has  been  the  most  active 
of  the  party,  trying  to  win  from  Nature  the  secrets  which  she  holds;  and  we  are 
informed  that  many  new  and  interesting  facts  have  been  added  to  the  domain 
of  science. 

We  have  from  the  outset  looked  upon  this  expedition  with  great  interest,  in  so 
far  as  we  have  seen  in  it  a  value  lying  beyond  the  fields  of  pure  science.  The 
speculations  of  the  pliilosopher  of  to-day  may  to-morrow  become  the  established 
facts  of  commerce,  and  it  will  be  impossible  for  the  investigations  of  Agassiz  to 
leave  behind  them  only  barren  results.  His  labors  may  in  the  end  yield  us  a 
harvest  of  material  wealth:  indeed,  we  have  before  us  at  this  moment  one  very 
pertinent  illustration  of  this  fact,  which  we  may  assume  is  but  the  forerunner  of 
many  others  of  the  same  kind. 

Our  readers  have  for  a  long  time  heard  of  the  famous  coal-beds  of  Candiota,  in 
the  province  of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul.  The  expectations  of  many  are  turned  in 
that  direction,  as  the  most  valued  instance  of  the  hidden  wealth  of  Brazil.  Mr. 
Plant  has  so  far  awakened  or  revived  an  interest  in  these  tilings,  that  from  time 
to  time  the  topic  has  been  made  a  public  one,  has  been  regarded  as  a  question 
for  commercial  action,  and  has  been  debated  each  time  with  growing  interest  in 
the  Legislature.  We  are  not  to-day  talking  of  the  value  of  this  matter  in  the 
abstract:  our  minds  have  been  long  made  up  •on  this  subject:  we  only  wish  to 
show  how  the  opinion  of  a  man  like  Agassiz  at  once  settles  the  whole  question, 
and  leaves  only  to  commerce  the  practical  development  of  plans  for  making 
available  this  most  important  element  in  a  nation's  wealth  and  power. 

Mr.  Plant,  as  a  geologist,  submitted  to  the  examination  of  the  professor  such 
fossils  and  geological  illustrations  of  the  province  of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul  as  he 
supposed  would  be  of  interest  and  would  help  to  complete  the  collections  which 
are  being  made  for  the  United  States.  The  importance  of  these  fossils,  and 
the  sure  deductions  which  science  draws  from  them,  appear  to  have  startled 
and  delighted  the  great  savant;  and  a  ffew  days  since  the  following  letter  was 
placed  in  the  hands  of  Mr.  Plant.  We  print  it  verbatim,  as  it  is  of  such  a 
nature  as  to  become  at  once  important,  and  will  show  the  Government  of  Brazil 
that  if  it  only  follows  up  the  path  opened  up  by  science,  the  results  as  a  source 
of  wealth  cannot  be  doubted. 

617 


618  Appendix  H. 

"Rio,  June  18,  1865. 

"Dear  Sir: — I  have  not  yet  returned  my  thanks  for  the  fine  specimens  you 
have  presented  tc  me,  though  ever  since  I  saw  them  I  have  looked  for  a  moment's 
leisure  to  do  so. 

"However,  this  gives  me  an  opportunity  of  expressing  a  more  mature  opinion 
concerning  their  geological  age,  which  I  am  glad  to  have  an  opportunity  of 
recording,  especially  since  the  examination  I  have  made  of  them  has  satisfied 
me  of  the  correctness  of  some  views  concerning  the  fossils  of  the  oldest  geolo- 
gical formation,  in  which  I  had  little  confidence.  That  these  organic  remains  all 
belong  to  the  Carboniferous  period  is  unquestionable;  and  it  is  the  close  affinity 
with  the  characteristic  fossils  of  Europe  which  particularly  interests  and  in  a 
measure  surprises  me.  Had  the  whole  collection  been  made  in  Pennsylvania,  I 
would  not  more  decidedly  have  recognized  its  Carboniferous  characteristics,  down 
to  the  rocks  underlying  and  overlying  the  fossiliferous  beds;  and  the  photographs 
you  have  shown  me  of  the  localities  leave  no  doubt  of  the  great  extent  and  value 
of  the  coal-beds  proper  of  the  river  Candiota,  whilst  the  coal  itself  may  fairly  be 
compared  to  the  best  in  the  market,  judging  from  the  specimens  you  have  shown 
me  and  those  I  owe  to  your  kindness. 

"With  my  best  wishes  for  the  further  success  of  your  geological  explorations, 
in  which  I  hope  you  may  hereafter  also  include  the  Drift  and  erratics,  now  that 
you  are  satisfied  of  their  existence  in  Brazil, 

"  I  remain, 

"  Yours,  very  truly, 

"L.  Agassiz. 

"N.  Plant,  Esq." 

We  think  our  subscribers  will  join  with  us  in  our  opinion  that  we  have  much 
to  look  for  from  this  expedition,  fitted  out  by  the  munificence  of  Nathaniel 
Thayer,  Esq.,  of  Boston.  It  may  be  that  this  expedition  has  been  projected  with 
a  conviction  of  the  value  of  science  as  an  agent  in  commerce.  We  are  sure  the 
indirect  results  will,  for  Brazil,  be  very  important.  One  of  the  world's  greatest 
minds  is  breaking  in  upon  a  region  almost  unknown.  His  aim  is,  we  know,  to 
extend  the  empire  of  mind  and  to  storm  the  stronghold  of  nature,  making  her  sub- 
servient to  the  wants  of  man;  and  in  parting  with  Professor  Agassiz  and  his 
co-laborers  for  a  season,  we  can  but  give  him  our  benediction,  with  the  hope  that 
in  a  few  months  he  will  be  among  us  again,  rich  with  treasures  from  the  Amazon. 

We  are  also  at  liberty  to  state  that  Sr.  Capanema,  whose  abilities  as  a  geologist 
are  too  well  known  to  need  comment,  has  seen  Mr.  Plant's  collection  of  fossils 
from  the  Candiota  coal-mines,  and  has  arrived  at  the  same  conclusion  as  Professor 
Agassiz  in  respect  to  the  coal-beds  belonging  to  the  Carboniferous  period. 

[So  interesting  to  science  and  to  commerce  are  these  coal  discoveries  in  Rio 
Grande  do  Sul,  that  I  asked  Mr.  Plant  to  give  me  full  information  on  this  subject. 
Under  date  of  July  24,  1865,  he  has  forwarded  me  that  which  constitutes  the 
remainder  of  Appendix  H. — J.  C.  F.J 


Appendix  H.  619 

the  coal-fields  of  the  river  jaguarao,  and  its  tributa- 
ries the  rivers  candiota  and  jaguarao-chico,  in  the  pro- 
vince of  rio  grande  do  sul. 

The  coal-basin  of  the  river  Jaguarao  is  situated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  province  of  Kio  Grande 
do  Sul,  between  lat.  31°  and  32°  South,  and  long.  3il°  and  326°,  (French  Meridian,)  in  the  valley  of 
the  Jaguarao  and  its  tributaries  the  rivers  Candiota  and  Jaguarao-chico.  It  covers  an  area  of  about 
fifty  miles  by  thirty,  its  greatest  diameter  being  from  north  to  south.  The  coal  strata,  which  the 
geological  section  illustrates,  and  from  whence  the  accompanying  specimens  have  been  obtained  and' 
the  thickness  of  the  beds  determined,  are  exposed  in  an  elevated  escarpment  on  the  bank  of  the 
river  Candiota,  at  a  place  called  "Serra  Partida,"  where  they  appear  in  the  following  order  of 
superposition : — 

The  uppermost  bed  (No.  1)  is  composed  of  sandstone  of  a  highly  ferruginous  nature,  resembling 
in  its  appearance  the  "Gres  Bizarre"  of  EiU'ope.  It  contains  nodules  of  a  silicious  peroxide  of  iron, 
yielding  from  25  to  35  per  cent,  of  metal.  It  varies  considerably  in  its  thickness,  in  some  places 
being  completely  worn  away,  and  in  others  attaining  a  depth  of  upwards  of  200  feet.  Immediately 
below  this  occurs  a  bed  (No.  2)  of  coal-shale,  very  argillaceous,  and  perhaps  unfit  for  fuel :  it  possesses 
a  thickness  of  9  feet,  and  can  be  seen  cropping  out  wherever  the  superincumbent  bed  has  been  de- 
nuded: it  rests  upon  a  bed  (No.  3)  of  sandy  oclireous  shale,  containing  spetaiia  of  an  ochreous  oxide 
of  iron,  which,  together  with  the  iron-stone  found  in  the  sandstone,  will,  in  all  probability,  be  turned 
to  profitable  account  when  the  coal-beds  are  worked.  Underneath  this  is  a  bed  (No.  4)  of  bituminous 
coal,  3  feet  thick.  The  mineral,  although  it  leaves  a  high  percentage  of  ash,  will  be  found  useful 
in  melting  the  iron-ores  from  the  interstratifying  beds;  and  there  is  every  reason  for  supposing  that 
it  will  be  found  of  a  better  quality  when  the  bed  is  fairly  worked.  The  samples  tested  were  taken 
from  very  near  the  surface,  wliich  may  in  some  measure  account  for  its  apparent  impurity:  it  rests 
on  a  bed  (No.  5)  of  white  clay,  or  schist,  containing  innumerable  impressions  of  fossil  plants  (perhaps 
aquatic),  the  general  appearance  of  which  would  lead  one  to  conclude  that  these  Carboniferous  de- 
posits belong  to  a  later  period  tlian  that  assigned  to  the  coal-measures  of  England  and  the  United 
States,  were  such  a  conclusion  not  confuted. by  the  fossil  ferns  found  in  the  otlier  interstratifying 
shales:  it  has  a  thickness  of  5  feet,  and  overlies  a  bed  (No.  6)  of  good  coal,  11  feet  thick.  This  coal 
resembles  very  much  in  its  appearance  the  Newcastle,  and  may  be  traced  for  many  miles  along  the 
banks  of  the  river  Candiota,  sometimes  forming  the  bed  of  that  river,  and  of  the  small  streams  falling 
into  it;  it  is  separated  from  another  seam  by  a  thin  parting  of  blue  clay  (No.  7).  The  coal  of  the 
lower  bed  (No.  8)  appears  to  be  even  of  a  better  quality  than  No.  6:  it  hius  a  clean,  shining  fracture, 
and  in  some  places  thin  seams  of  pure  cannel  coal  may  be  traced  along  the  bed.  It  is  highly  in- 
flammable, boiling  up  like  oil  during  combustion.  This  coal  has  been  u.sed  as  fuel  in  various  ways 
with  marked  success.  It  has  been  tried  on  the  steamers  navigating  the  "Lagoa  dos  Patos"  in  the 
province  of  Rio  Grande,  and  although  it  left  a  greater  portion  of  ash  than  the  Cardiff  coal,  it  was 
found  to  be  a  good  caking  coal,  and  served  every  purpose  of  a  steam  fuel.  Below  this  is  another  bed 
(No.  9)  of  blue  clay,  containing  vestiges  of  fossil  plants.  In  every  thing  else  it  is  similar  to  the  upper 
bed  of  the  same  mineral,  and  has  a  thickness  of  9  feet.  It  reposes  on  the  thickest  seam  (No.  10)  of 
coal  exposed  in  the  escarpment  at  the  "Serra  Partida."  This  is  the  lowest  bed  of  coal  exposed  in  any 
part  of  the  coal-field  of  Candiota;  but  in  all  probability  other  beds  will  be  found  nearer  to  the  centre 
of  the  basin,  or  this,  as  well  as  the  incumbent  beds,  may  become  thicker,  judging  from  the  fact  that 
all  tlie  beds  appear  to  thicken  as  they  approach  the  middle  of  the  vallej-  of  the  river  Jaguarao.  The 
great  thickness  (25  feet)  and  the  good  and  homogeneous  character  of  the  seam  are  important  features 
in  this  coal-field.  The  mineral  (although  taken  from  near  the  decomposed  face  of  the  cliff  on  the 
river  Candiota)  was  found  to  leave  even  less  ash  than  that  from  the  seam  above.  It  has  frequently 
been  used  on  steamers  with  the  same  success  as  Newcastle  coal.  The  coke  obtained  from  this  coal 
by  Mr.  W.  G.  Ginty,  of  the  Kio  Gas  AVorks,  (see  Mr.  Ginty's  report,)  was  even  better  than  that  derived 
from  Newcastle  coal.  It  overlies  a  bed  (No.  11)  of  ironstone  shale,  which,  in  a  scientific  point  of 
^iew,  s  the  most  important  deposit  of  the  coal-measures  of  the  Jaguarilo,  from  the  fact  I'f  its  con- 
taining impressions  of  organic  remains,  by  which  the  geological  age  of  the  coal-beds  can  be  determined ; 
the  fossil  plants  found  imbedded  in  this  shale  all  belong  to  the  same  genera  as  those  which  charac- 
terize the  coal-fields  of  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States, — the  most  abundant  belonging  to  the 
genera  "  Lepidodendron"  and  "Glossopteris;"  others  have  been  recognized  as  being  similar  to  the 
ferns  found  in  the  very  oldest  secondary  rocks,  thus  leaving  no  uncertainty  as  to  the  true  Carboni- 
ferous character  of  the  coal-measures  of  the  river  Candiota.  This  seam  is  very  prolific  of  fossils;  and 
there  can  be  no  doubt  that  when  these  immense  beds  of  mineral  treasure  are  worked,  many  new  and 
interesting  forms  of  vegi  table  life  will  be  brought  to  light  to  enrich  our  knowledge  of  the  coal-fields 
of  the  Southern  hemisphere.  The  iron-stone  shale  is  very  rich  in  metal,  and  will,  doubtless,  be 
worked  as  an  iron  ore,  v,hen  the  mines  are  opened.  Below  this  there  occurs  another  bed  (No.  12)  of 
sandstone,  similar  in  all  respects  to  the  uppermost  bed,  after  which  is  a  bed  (No.  13)  of  fine  crystal- 


620 


Appendix  H. 


GEOLOGICAL   SECTION  OF   STRATA   SHOWN   ALONG   THE    fALLEY   OF 
THE   CANDIOTA,    RIO   GRANDE   DO   SUL. 


^    Surface. 


V  Ferruginous 
sandstone. 


White  fossiliferous 
sLule. 


>  Coal. 

>  Parting  of  blue  clay. 


113  Ft. 


>  Fossiliferous  clay. 


Ironstone  shales 
with  fossil  ferns. 


Metalliferous  lime- 
stone. 


(■    - 


Appendix  H.  621 

line  lin.estone,  containing  small  fragments  of  graphite  disseminated  throughout  the  mass:  it  is  tra- 
versed also  by  veins  of  a  very  pure  carbonate  of  lime  in  the  form  of  double-refracting  spar,  which  in 
some  places  attain  a  considerable  thickness.  This  limestone  will  not  only  be  of  immense  value  as  a 
calcined  lime,  but  also  as  a  flux  in  smelting  the  iron  ores.  The  three  things  essential  for  the  erection 
of  smelting  works  are  thus  found  on  the  same  district  interstratifying  each  other, — the  ore,  the  fuel, 
and  the  tiu.\,  all  of  the  very  first  quality, — a  combination  of  mineral  riches  (only  waiting  for  the 
hand  of  man  to  realize  them)  scarcely  to  be  found  together  in  one  spot  in  any  other  part  of  the 
globe.  Evidently,  the  two  lowest  beds  of  these  coal-measures  are  mica-schist  tNo.  14),  and  another 
limestone  rock  (No.  16),  of  a  very  dark  and  compact  nature.  It  is  scarcely  possible  to  determine 
which  is  the  lowermost,  as  in  some  places  the  mica-schist  is  seen  lying  on  the  sieuite  which  surrounds 
the  coal-basin,  and  in  others  the  limestone:  the  name  of  "Metalliferous  limestone"  has  been  given 
it,  owing  to  the  innumerable  crystals  and  thin  veins  of  sulphuret  of  iron  which  appear  in  it.  In 
all  probability,  other  metalliferous  veins  will  be  found  in  this  limestone. 

Nearly  the  whole  of  the  coal-basin  of  the  valley  of  the  Jaguarao  is  enclosed  by  sienitic  hills  of 
from  200  to  ;^00  feet  high ;  the  sides  towards  the  coal-field  slope  gently  downwards  till  they  disappear 
under  the  sandstone  overlying  the  coal :  on  the  other  side,  the  sienite,  after  presenting  an  uneven 
and  undulating  aspect  for  some  three  or  four  le.agues,  gradually  subsides  into  an  even  country,  which 
continues  on  almost  perfectly  plain  till  the  seaport  city  of  Kio  Grande  do  Sul  (S.  I'edro)  is  reached. 
So  that  the  company  already  formed  for  making  the  survey  for  a  railway  to  carry  the  mineral  riches 
of  the  valley  of  the  Jaguarao  down  to  a  seaport,  where  the  coal  can  be  shipped  to  the  different  ports 
along  the  coast  of  Brazil  and  to  the  river  Plate,  will  find  no  difficulty  in  discovering  a  route  along 
which  a  cheap  line  of  rails  can  be  laid  down. 

The  engraving  opposite  p.  347  (from  a  photographic  view  of  the  different  escarpments  in  which  the 
coal-beds  are  shown  along  the  river  Candiota)  will  show  the  great  facilities  aflorded  for  working  the 
coal  in  almost  any  part  ol  the  basin,  by  open  cuttings.  Tram-ways  tan  be  laid  down  branching  off  in 
different  directions  from  the  main  trunk  line,  along  which  the  coal-wagons  can  be  run  right  into  the 
Beams  of  coal,  thereby  rendering  the  sinking  of  expensive  shafts  quite  unnecessary. 

The  general  dip  of  the  beds  is  from  5°  to  10°  S.  W.,  and  in  no  place  are  there  signs  of  subsequent 
upheavals  or  dislocations  of  strata  visible,  so  that  very  little  obstruction  will  be  met  with  in  carrying 
the  tram-ways  along  the  seams  as  the  working  of  them  goes  forward. 

It  is  almost  uimecessary  to  dwell  upon  the  immense  value  of  these  coal-deposits  as  a  commercial 
enterprise,  when  it  has  been  already  ascertained,  by  a  "  running  survey"  of  the  country  between  the 
Beaport  of  Kio  Grande  do  Sul  (S.  Pedro)  and  the  coal-mines  of  Candiota,  that  in  all  probability  the  coal 
will  bo  delivered  on  board  vessels  lying  in  the  port  of  Ilio  Grande  at  perhaps  less  than  lis.  75^000 
per  ton,  where  it  is  at  the  present  moment  being  sold  at  Ks.  24;JO00,  and  as  soon  as  a  bill  is  passed 
allowing  vessels  of  all  nations  to  trade  between  the  Brazilian  ports,  there  will  be  no  lack  of  enter- 
prising ship-owners  to  carry  the  Rio  Grande  coal  to  Kio  de  Janeiro,  in  which  port  alone  the  enormous 
amount  of  180,000  tons  of  coal  are  annually  imported  for  a  price  which  will  enable  the  coal-mining 
company  to  sell  the  Candiota  coal,  in  the  market  of  the  capital  of  the  Brazilian  Empire,  for  about  Ks. 
16$000  per  ton,  a  price  which  will  annihilate  any  competition  Irom  foreign  markets,  seeing  that  the 
foreign  coal  is  seldom  sold  for  less  than  Ks.  ■22!f000  per  ton. 

The  consumption  of  coal  in  the  river  Plate  is  perhaps  as  great  as  that  of  Kio  de  Janeiro,  and  the 
facilities  for  supplying  the  markets  of  Buenos  Ayres  and  Montevideo  from  the  coal-mines  of  the 
river  Candiota  are  still  greater  than  those  for  supplying  Kio.  The  coal  can  be  sent  from  the  mines, 
put  on  board  coU.ers,  and  delivered  in  Montevideo,  in  three  or  four  d.ays,  at  about  half  the  cost  of  de- 
livering the  same  article  in  Rio,  and  in  a  market  where  coal  is  never  less  than  fifteen  dollars  per  ton, 
or  Rs.  ilOifOOO.  The  consumption  of  coal  along  the  Brazilian  coast  and  in  the  river  Plate  increases  yearly, 
and  in  all  probability  it  will  be  found,  after  the  coal-mines  of  Candiota  have  been  opened  for  a  few 
years,  that  a  single  line  of  railway  will  not  be  found  sufficient  to  carry  the  supply  of  coal  to  meet 
the  increasing  demands. 

lUo  DE  Janeiro,  20th  July,  1865.  Nathaniel  Plant. 

The  Brazilian  Coal-Fields,  by  Edwaed  Hull,  B.A.,  F.G.S. 

(Note  from  the  Quarterly  Journal  [England]  op  Science,  No.  II.  April,  1S64.) 

The  immense  empire  of  Brazil,  occupying  one-third  of  the  continent  of  South  America,  with  an 
area  of  upwards  of  3,000,000  of  S(]uare  miles;  considerably  larger  than  Russia  in  Europe;  watered 
by  the  largest  river  in  the  world,  which,  with  its  tributaries,  is  navigable  for  many  hundred  miles 
from  its  mouth;  its  western  bounds  stretching  to  the  spires  of  the  Andes,  and  its  eastern  washed  by 
the  waves  of  two  oceans, — such  a  country  as  tliis  would  appear  fitted  to  occupy  the  foremost  rank 
amongst  the  nations  of  the  Western  hemisphere,  provided  its  boundless  resources  were  turned  to 
account  by  an  intelligent  people,  and  civilization  were  advanced  by  wise  laws. 

It  is  satisfactory  to  reflect,  that  while  most  of  the  surrounding  republics — the  shattered  limbs  of 


622  Appi:ndix  H. 

Spanish  America — are  tossed  on  the  waves  of  anarchy,  Brazil  enjoys  a  peaceful  government,  iinde.  h 
constitutional  monarchy;  personal  freedom,  with  political  security;  monarchical  principles  com- 
bined with  popular  rights.  We  notice  these  points  in  the  government  of  Brazil  because  they  afford 
the  highest  guarantee  of  national  progress  and  development  of  industrial  i)ursuits.  Nor  are  the  raw 
materials  necessary  for  the  attainment  of  a  high  position  among  the  manufacturing  communities 
of  the  world  absent  from  the  soil  of  Brazil. 

The  northern  half  of  the  empire  is  physically  not  unlike  the  plain  of  Northern  Italy  on  a  large 
scale.  Covered  with  forests  springing  from  a  rich  alluvial  soil,  and  watered  by  the  Amazon  and  its 
giant  branches,  it  is  prodigiously  fertile.  The  southern  half  is  hilly,  and  sometimes  mouutainous,  and 
gives  birth  to  tlie  Rio  de  la  Plata.  One  of  the  peaks  of  the  Organ  Range  rises  behind  the  harbor  of 
Rio  de  Janeiro  to  an  altitude  of  7,500  feet.  It  was  once  supposed  that  this  great  empire — rich  in 
precious  stones  and  nearly  all  the  metals  from  gold  to  iron  inclusive— was  devoid  of  one  natural 
product,  useful,  if  not  absolutely  essential  to  the  full  utilization  of  the  other  mineral  treasures,  namely, 
coal;  but  such  a  supposition  was  altogether  erroneous,  as  recent  investigations  have  fully  shown. 

A  writer  in  a  recent  number  of  tlie  Quarterly  Review  for  1S60  mentions  [in  a  Review  of  Brazil  and 
the  Brazilians]  the  existence  of  a  coal-field  about  forty  miles  from  the  sea  [in  the  province  of  Rio 
Grande  do  Sul].  This  is  all  that  was  known  on  the  subject  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic,  till  very 
recently. 

To  a  countryman  of  our  own,  Mr.  Nathaniel  Plant,  we  are  Indebted  for  a  full  account  of  the 
position  and  resources  of  three  distinct  coal-fields  which  he  has  recently  explored  in  the  southern  part 
of  the  empire.  The  largest  presents  some  features  of  peculiar  interest,  which  we  proceed  briefly  to 
lay  before  our  readers. 

The  first  notice  of  these  minerals  seems  to  have  been  taken  by  a  Mr.  Guilherme  Bouleich,  in  the 
province  of  pio  Grande  do  Sul.    This  appears  to  have  been  in  the  year  1859. 

The  matter,  however,  seems  to  have  been  lost  sight  of  until  the  end  of  1861,  when  Mr.  N.  Plant, 
who  for  several  years  had  been  examining  the  mineral  districts  of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  and  other  parts 
of  South  America,  determined  to  make  a  fuller  exploration  of  the  coal  districts:  and  he  has  now  sent 
to  this  country  an  account  of  the  very  remarkable  deposits  of  mineral  fuel  to  be  met  with,  together 
with  those  unbiassed  witnesses, — photographic  views  and  rock  specimens.* 

The  Candiota  coal-field  is  the  largest  of  the  three  which  have  yet  been  discovered.  It  lies  between 
lat.  31°  and  32°  S.,  and  is  thus  at  the  extremity  of  the  province  of  Rio  Grande  do  Sul.  It  is  traversed 
by  the  river  Jaguarao  and  several  of  its  tributaries,  along  whose  banks  the  seams  of  coal  crop  out. 
There  are  two  great  seams  of  bituminous  coal,  the  lower  being  25  feet  in  thickness,  and  separated 
by  only  a  very  few  feet  of  shale  from  the  upper  bed,  (or  series  of  beds,  which  is  40  feet  in  thickness.) 
In  some  places  the  intermediate  bands  of  shale  which  separate  the  mineral  into  distinct  layers,  thin 
away,  in  which  case  a  solid  seam  of  no  less  than  65  feet  is  formed,  unsurpassed,  wo  believe,  in  vertical 
dimensions  by  any  similar  formation  yet  discovered.  We  have  handled  specimens  of  the  coal;  and, 
though  taken  from  the  outcrop,  it  is  scarcely  distinguishable,  except  bj-  a  slight  brownish  hue,  from 
the  ordinary  coal  of  our  own  country. 

The  coal  strata  reposes  on  a  series  of  shales,  sandstones,  and  crystalline  limestones,  the  whole  of 
which  are  supported  by  mica-schist,  and  finally  by  sienite. 

Iron  is  also  present,  as  in  the  coal-formation  of  Britain,  both  in  the  form  of  bands  of  clay-ironstone 
and  as  a  roof  for  the  seams  of  coal.  At  the  top  of  the  cliff  formed  by  the  outcrop  of  the  coal-seams 
there  occurs  a  mass  of  silicious  iron-ore  several  yards  thick,  a  sheet  ca.=ting  from  which,  taken  by  Mr. 
N.  Plant,  was  exhibited  at  the  late  Industrial  Exhibition  among  other  Brazilian  products.  Thus 
there  occur  in  close  proximity  to  each  other  the  ore,  the  fuel,  the  flux  and  clay  necessary  for  the 
establishment  of  iron-furnaces. 

The  several  minerals  thus  united  rise  in  the  form  of  an  elevated  escarpment,  which  may  be  traced 
for  several  leagues,  affording  the  utmost  facility  for  working  by  open  works,  or  tunnels  driven  Into 
the  sides  of  tlie  hills. 

From  its  base  stretches  a  gently  sloping  plain  of  basalt,  over  which  a  railway  to  a  port  on  the  Rio 
Gonsalo  might  be  laid  down  at  a  very  moderate  cost.  ********* 

******************** 
After  an  inspection  of  the  fossil  plants  which  have  been  sent  over  to  this  country,  there  can  be  no 
doubt,  we  think,  that  these  beds  belong  to  the  Carboniferous  age.  Mr.  Plant  has  sent  over  several 
pieces  of  ironstone  on  which  are  imprinted  very  distinct  specimens  of  Lepiilodendron,  and  several 
ferns  not  unlike  those  of  the  coal  measures  of  Britain.  A  gentleman,  also,  who  has  studied  the  coal 
measures  of  Nova  Scotia,  which  are  of  the  same  age  as  those  of  Britain,  refers  in  a  letter,  which  we 
have  seen,  to  fine  specimens  of  Sigillaria  and  Stigmaria,  both  of  which  are  ch.aracteristic  of  tliis 
period.  Specimens  of  these,  however,  we  have  not  seen  in  the  collection  we  have  examim'd:  but, 
nothing  can  be  more  distinct  than  the  fronds  of  Lepidodendron  already  referred  to.    While  on  this 

•  These  have  been  laid  before  the  Geological  Society,  Manchester,  by  his  brother.  Mr.  S.  Plant,  Curator  of  the  Rornl 
Museum,  Sairord. 


Appendix   II.  62S 

s'lbject,  we  may  be  allowed  to  remark  that  although,  on  the  authority  of  Professor  M'Coy,  the  ago 
of  the  Australian  coal-fields  was  for  some  time  considered  to  be  Jurassic,  the  recent  investigations  of 
the  Rev.  AV.  B.  Clarke  go  to  establish  the  Carboniferous  age  of  these  beds.  Mr.  Clarke  has  sent  to 
England  a  collection  of  fossils  from  the  New  South  Wales  coal-fields,  containing  specimens  of  Lepi- 
dodendron  and  Spirifer;  and  thus  it  would  appear  that  during  the  same  great  epoch,  so  pre-eminently 
Cnrboniferous,  deposits  of  coal  were  being  elaborated  over  both  sides  of  the  equator, — a  marvellous 
instance  of  the  uniformity  of  nature's  operations  in  early  geologic  times. 

The  importance  of  these  great  deposits  of  coal  to  the  commerce  of  the  eastern  seaboard  of  South 
America  need  not  be  dwelt  upon.  At  the  present  time  nearly  200,000  tons  of  coal  are  annually  im- 
ported into  Rio  de  Janeiro  alone,  at  a  cost  of  forty-nine  shillings  per  ton,  and  from  this  depot  other 
coast  towns  are  supplied.  When  once  the  coal-fields  of  Candiota  are  opened  up,  the  Brazilian  Govern- 
ment may  be  supplied  at  nearly  half  the  price,  and  our  own  little  island  be  spared  the  doubtful  honor 
of  providing  fuel  for  a  continent  on  the  other  side  of  the  globe. 

(Signed)  Edward  Hull. 


Report  on  the  Caxdiota  Coal,  by  W.  G.  Gintt,  Engineer-in-Chief  of  the 
Rio  de  Janeiro  Gas  Works. 

Mr.  Nathaniel  Plant: 

Dear  Sir: — I  have  received  and  examined  j-our  samples  of  Brazilian  coal  from  Candiota  with  great 
interest,  and  I  am  glad  to  be  able  to  congratulate  you  on  its  really  good  quality. 

The  samples  you  sent  me  were  too  small  for  complete  and  satisfactory  analysis  in  the  apparatus 
nt  my  disposal.  I  found  also  the  samples  varied  a  good  deal  in  ajipearance  and  quality.  This  has 
arisen,  no  doubt,  from  their  having  been  obtained  from  various  positions  on  the  nearly  perpendicular 
f  vce  of  the  immense  stratum,  and  from  variable  periods  of  exposure,  as,  owing  to  the  crumbling  away 
or  disintegration  of  pieces  under  the  incessant  action  of  the  weather,  these  samples  may  have  been 
exposed  for  periods  varying  from  each  other  as  seconds  do  from  centuries. 

The  Candiota  coal  resembles  tlie  Newcastle  steam-coal  (which  comes  to  this  market,  at  least)  very 
much  in  structure,  cleavage,  and  general  appearances;  nor  does  it  differ  very  much  from  Newcastle 
coal  in  its  useful  properties,  except  that  it  contains  more  than  double  the  quantity  of  ash,  which  is 
detrimental  to  its  heating  powers;  but  this  objection  is  likely  enough  to  disappear  altogether  in 
bamples  from  the  deeper  parts  of  the  mine. 

The  coke  fr(nn  the  Candiota  coal  is,  however,  very  different  in  appearance  from  that  of  the  New- 
c:istte  coal,  and  resembles  the  coke  of  (what  is  sold  here  as)  Cardiff  coal  in  its  silvery-colored  laminations. 

Some  of  this  Candiota  coal,  however,  especially  that  of  the  lower  seam,  is  very  friable,  and  is 
evidently  what  is  called  caking  coal  (that  is,  it  boils  or  becomes  molten  during  the  process  of  car- 
bonization) :  however  all  the  qualities  of  the  coke  from  the  Candiota  coal  are  very  good. 

As  you  say  the  dip  or  inclination  of  the  seams  or  strata  of  this  Candiota  coal  is  5°  from  the 
plane  of  the  horizon,  I  think  it  most  reasonable  to  presume  that  a  much  finer,  more  compact,  and 
equable  quality  of  coal  may  be  calculated  upon  at  lower  depths.  5°  is  a  gradient  of  1  in  11.4,  or  8.77 
per  cent.,  or  462  feet  per  mile.  Thus,  in  such  an  immense  field  as  you  have  described  to  me,  there  is 
ample  margin  for  obtaining  other  than  surface  coal,  which  for  obvious  reasons,  in  Brazil  as  elsewhere, 
cannot  be  as  pure,  as  compact,  or  as  uniform  in  quality  as  that  obtained  at  great  depths.  I  shall 
v\atcli  the  prosecution  of  your  explorations  in  this  direction  with  great  interest. 

The  following  are  the  result?  of  my  examinations  (as  far  as  they  went)  on  the  Candiota  coal, — the 
Biimples  of  Newcastle,  Cardiff,  and  Wigan  Cannel,  with  which  it  is  compared  below,  having  been  tried 
at  the  same  time  in  the  same^apparatus: — 

Specific  Per-  Illuminating 

Gravity  cent.  Cubic  Feet  Power  in 

Water,  of  of  Gas  Staudard 

1.000  Ci  ke.  per  Ton.  Caudles. 

Candiota  coal  (mean  of  three  qualities) 1.240  63  6,600  5.00 

Do.        do.    lower  seam 1.230  60  8,198  5.80 

Newcastle 1.250  62  

Cardiff.' 1.275  SO  

Gas,  or  Cannel  coal  (Case  and  Morris) 1.240  62  9,600  20.50 

From  the  appearance  of  the  lower  seam,  I  do  not  despair  of  your  finding  a  good  gas  coal  for  us  in 
the  Candiota  district,  and  thus  freeing  the  Brazilian  Gas  Companies  from  the  fearful  tax  they  have  to 
pay  in  the  shape  of  freights  from  England,  amounting  to  from  200  to  300  per  cent,  on  the  value  of  the 
materic  prima.    1  send  you  labelled  samples  of  the  different  qualities  of  coke  above  referred  to. 
I  remain  your  obedient  servant, 

(Signed)  W.  G.  Gintt,  3tem.  Inst.  C.  K, 

Engineer  Eio  de  Janeiro  Gas  Company 


624  Appendix  H. 


THE   GOLD-MINES   OF   NORTHERN   BRAZIL. 

Gold  is  plentifully  diffused  in  veins,  lodes,  and  deposits  of  auriferous  earth  throughout  the  primitive 
mountain  valleys  of  Northern  Brazil.  Rivers  and  streams,  laden  with  water-worn  particles  of  the 
"precious  metal,"  testify  the  fact.  But,  in  the  absence  of  capital  and  skilled  labor  for  its  extraction, 
gold  in  Northern  Brazil  is  confined  to  the  acquisition  of  private  adventurers  or  to  aboriginal  tribes. 
In  South  Brazil,  in  the  province  of  Minas-Geraes,  in  the  vicinity  of  Sao  Joao  del  Key,  the  gold  mines 
worked  by  English  companies  have  proved  up  to  this  time  the  most  remunerative  in  South  America. 
In  1806,  that  energetic  Brazilian  Sr.  Jaccomo  Tasso,  of  Pernambuco,  called  the  attention  of  Knglish 
capitalists  to  the  gold-regions  of  Parahyba  do  Norte,  and  soon  after  a  company  was  formed  under  the 
title  of  the  "Tiisso  Brazilian  Gold-Mining  Company  (limited),"  having  a  capital  of  £200,UU0  (with 
power  to  increase),  at  £5  per  share.  The  officers  of  the  association,  who  have  long  been  in  commercial 
and  other  relations  v.ith  Brazil,  are  as  follows : — CH.iRLES  C.vpper,  Esq.,  Merchant,  London.  Charles 
S.^b'XDERS,  Esq.,  Merchant  of  Liverpool  and  Pernambuco.  Charles  Barber,  Esq.,  London.  William 
Ceemer,  Esq.,  London.  Edward  Johnston,  Esq.,  Merchant  of  London,  Liverpool,  and  Kio.  Sebastian 
Pinto  Leite,  Merchant  of  London,  Manchester,  and  Liverpool.  Bonami  Price,  Esq.,  London,  Director 
of  the  St.  John  del  Rey  Gold  Company. 

This  company  availed  itself  of  the  local  knowledge  and  territorial  possessions  of  Sr.  Tasso,  which 
are  situated  in  the  heart  of  the  gold  district  of  Parahyba,  determined  to  undertake  the  work  of  gold- 
mining  in  Northern  Brazil  on  a  scale  and  with  such  approved  machinery  as  shall  render  the  enter- 
prise one  of  immediate  and  great  productiveness.  In  pursuance  of  this  resolution,  the  company 
entered  into  a  contract  for  the  purchase  of  the  estates  of  Sr.  Tasso,  at  Pianco,  in  the  province  of  Para- 
hyba, Brazil,  (on  which  estates  eight  gold-bearing  lodes  have  already  been  discovered,)  and  also  for 
exercising  the  rights  of  exploration  and  pre-emption,  within  the  provinces  of  Parahyba  and  Pernam- 
buco, now  conceded  to  that  gentleman  by  the  Brazilian  Government.  An  imperial  concession  for 
these  purposes  includes  the  unexpired  right  for  four  years  to  explore  the  interior  of  both  provinces  for 
minerals,  and  to  appropriate  and  work  to  the  extent  of  150  "datas,"or  about  25,000  acres,  eligible 
either  for  gold  or  fur  other  mining  enterprise. 

When  the  concession  was  obtained,  Mr.  William  Reay  and  Mr.  Thomas  Andrew,  surveyors  of  prac- 
tical experience  in  Brazilian  gold-mining,  were  sent  from  England  to  Sr.  Tasso's  estate  in  the  district 
of  Pianco,  through  which  flows  one  of  the  affluents  of  the  river  Piranhiis.  Several  rich  lodes  of  gold 
were  traced  by  them,  and  portions  of  the  ore  assayed  with  satisfactory  results.  Notwithstanding  the 
necessary  imperfection  of  such  methods  as  could  be  adopted  on  the  spot,  the  result  of  twenty-six 
assays  gave  an  average  of  aljout  16  dwts.  5?  grains  of  fine  gold  per  ton  of  ore,  as  taken  in  each.caso 
from  the  surface  of  the  several  lodes  then  traced.  The  chief  of  these  assays  yielded  on  the  average 
1  oz.  9  dwts.  23  grs.  per  ton  of  ore,  and  five  samples  obtained  from  different  parts  of  the  '"Boa  Espe- 
ran^a"  lode  yielded  2  oz.  9  dwts.  and  15  grs.  of  gold  per  ton.  Later  "  extracts"  from  the  lodes  gave 
even  more  e.xtraordinary  results.  Mr.  Charles  Martin,  London,  reporting  on  them,  says : — "I  send 
you  herewith  copy  of  the  assays  I  have  had  made  of  your  quartz,  which  are  surprisingly  rich,  and 
which  would  pay  enormously  if  the  bulk  should  prove  any  thing  like  the  sample." 
oz.  dwt.  gra.  oz.  dwt.  grs. 

No.  5  Gold 3      10      12    per  ton  of  20  cwt.  I  No.  6  Gold 12        5      15  per  ton  of  20  cwt. 

Silver 0      18        0  "  u  |  Silver 3      15        0  "         " 

Another  sample  assayed  by  Messrs.  Johnson,  Matthay  &  Co.,  of  London,  yielded : — 

Gold 6a50  oz.  per  ton  of  20  cwt.  [  Silver 4-350  oz.  per  ton  of  20  cwt. 

In  addition  to  the, "  eight  lodes"  mentioned,  two  lodes,  of  a  still  richer  description,  are  believed  to 
lie  near  the  centre  of  the  estate.  The  grounds  on  which  investments  were  recommended  were — 
1st.  That  the  provinces  of  Parahyba  and  Pernambuco,  over  which  the  rights  of  the  company  will 
extend,  contain  the  richest  gold-mines  in  the  empire.  2d.  That,  besides  the  lodes  of  gold,  the  locality 
contains  an  enormous  quantity  of  auriferous  ore  detached  from  the  lodes,  available  at  comparatively 
little  expense.  3d.  That  the  surface  of  the  land  already  explored  at  Pianco  is  remarkably  favorable 
for  mining  operations.  4tli.  That  the  neighborhood  being  populous  and  fertile,  labor  is  cheap,  and 
supplies  of  cattle,  corn,  and  other  produce  are  easily  obtainable.  5th.  That  a  main  road,  along  which 
a  great  part  of  the  cotton  exported  from  Pernambuco  is  now  conveyed,  runs  through  the  site  of  the 
concession  at  Pianco.  6th.  That  Sr.  Tasso  transfers  to  tlie  company  not  only  his  right  of  exploration 
and  pre-emption  throughout  the  provinces  of  Parahyba  and  Pernambuco,  and  the  concession  of 
thirty-six  "  datas"  (equal  to  about  6000  acres)  already  obtained  at  Pianco,  but  also  the  absolute 
ownership  of  all  his  estate  in  that  vicinity,  estimated  at  about  12,000  acres,  together  with  buildings, 
stock,  timber,  and  all  his  rights  appertaining  thereto.  7th.  And,  finally,  that  a  moderate  outlay 
appears  sufficient  to  insure  very  large  returns.  If  only  fifty  tons  of  ore  per  day  were  reduced,  it  is 
estimated  that  a  year's  operations,  at  that  rate,  would  yield  a  profit  on  the  cost  of  working  of  not 
less  than  £46,500. 


Appendix  I. 


(From  "  The  Anglo-Brazilian  Times,"  of  October  24, 1865  (edited  by  a  Koman  Catholic),  Rio  de  Janeiro. 
RELIGIOUS   DISABILITIES. 

HowEVEK  diminished  the  influence  religious  bigotry  may  now  openly  exert 
upon  the  conduct  of  civilized  peoples,  it  is  not  by  any  means  a  powerless  element 
of  mischief,  even  among  those  nations  who  put  forward  the  strongest  pretensions 
to  the  perfect  establishment  of  religious  toleration,  and  who  allow  to  the  dictates 
of  conscience  the  utmost  latitude  of  thought  and  action. 

Nations,  even  more  than  individuals,  with  difficulty  loosen  and  divest  them- 
selves from  those  trammels  which  hereditary  reverence  throws  around  them, — 
those  trammels  which  arise  from  the  "straining  at  a  gnat  and  swallowing  a 
camel "  scruples  of  doctrinal  education, — from  that  Phariseeism  that  lies  at  the 
root  of  all  intolerance,  (whose  life  and  nature  are  egotism  and  self-conceit,) 
which  bestows  opprobrious  terms  upon  its  brother  man,  and  says  to  him,  "Stand 
aside:  I  am  holier  than  thou;"  "Thy  faith  is  not  my  faith:  therefore  thou  art  a 
fool,  and  a  godless  man,  and  unfit  to  rule  thyself."  Religious  "cant,"  as  it  has 
been  termed,  is  still  rampant  and  destructive  among  some  of  the  freest  and  most 
progressive  nations;  and  the  cry  of  "Religion  and  the  Church  in  danger!"  still 
proves  sufficient,  at  times,  to  drown  the  dictates  of  conscience  and  even-handed 
justice. 

What  wonder,  then,  when  commercial,  Protestant  England  and  polished  and 
tolerant  Papal  France  still  furnish  occasional  examples  of  outbursts  of  reli- 
gious intolerance,  that  Brazil,  a  land  lately  emerged  from  her  colonial  chrysalis, 
barely  entering  into  contact  with  tlie  outer  world,  (her  liberal  constitution  and 
laws  rather  the  work  of  enlightened  monarchs  and  progressive  statesmen,  acqui- 
esced in  by  a  gentle  people,  than  the  expression  of  the  inner  feeling  of  the 
advanced  masses,)  should  still  maintain  upon  her  statute  rolls  legislative  pro- 
visions contrary  to  the  liberality  and  spirit  of  that  constitution?  If  religious 
disabilities  are  hurtful  in  old  and  densely-populated  countries,  they  are  a  hundred- 
fold more  mischievous  in  a  new  and  thinly-settled  one  like  Brazil;  for  they  tend 
to  repel  instead  of  attracting  immigration,  and  they  deprive  those  who  are 
subjected  to  them  of  that  feeling  of  equality  of  rights  and  interests  which  it 
should  be  the  great  endeavor  of  a  people  to  inculcate  among  those  citizens  of 
other  lands  who  come  among  them  to  be  of  them  and  with  them. 

Brazilian  legislation  disables  any  but  Roman  Catholics  from  becoming  Deputies, 
and,  constructively,  from  becoming  "electors," — the  "delegates"  of  the  United 
States.  Whence  arises  danger  to  the  "Good  Estate"  if  his  fellow-citizens  give 
their  suffrages  to  a  "heretic"  whom  they  trust  and  wish  to  honor?  Do  the 
Papist  and  Jewish  legislators  of  Great  Britain  and  Prussia  advocate  insurrection 
and  immorality?  Does  Louis  Napoleon  find  his  Jewish  senators  and  his  Minister 
of  Finance  less  faithful  than  his  Roman  Catholic  ones?  Do  conscience  and 
honor  make  their  resting-place"  only  in  the  bosom  of  members  of  a  "  state 
religion"?  And  are  not  the  property,  the  interests,  the  intelligence  of  the 
dissenting  portion  of  a  population  as  worthy  of,  and  as  much  entitled  to,  repre- 
sentation, as  the  property  and  interests  of  members  of  the  State  Church? 

40  625 


626  Appekdis  I. 

Does  the  legal  restriction  of  a  cross  or  steeple  render  the  heretical  house  of 
prayer  less  a  temple  of  that  God  whose  worship  was  first  carried  on  in  upper 
rooms,  in  caves,  in  groves  ?  Will  the  sight  of  heretical  peristyles  and  decorations 
uproot  from  the  minds  of  the  faithful  the  precepts  of  a  Church  whose  claim  it  is 
to  possess  the  keys  of  heaven  and  hell,  to  loose  and  unloose?  Can  a  legislature 
which  enacts  such  stringent  laws  of  mortmain,  that  provides  for  the  extinguish- 
ment of  the  confraternities,  and  for  schools  to  educate  and  enlighten  the  rising 
generation, — can  they,  can  the  ministers  of  the  state  religion  themselves, 
believe  that  the  "outward  signs  of  temple"  will  undermine  and  overthrow  a 
worship  bequeathed  to  them  by  the  martyrs  that  carried  it  triumphantly  through 
the  opprobrium  and  the  bloody  scenes  of  Jewish  and  Roman  persecution?  No! 
it  cannot  be  that  they  seriously  believe  it ! — to  do  so  would  be  to  doubt  themselves 
and  their  religion;  but  a  few  intolerant  minds  raise  the  war-cry  of  "The  Church 
in  danger!"  and  "  cant "  carries  the  day  against  the  secret  wishes  of  the  tolerant 
majority. 

But  perhaps  nothing  is  likely  to  operate  more  injuriously  on  the  successful 
issue  of  immigration  than  the  legislative  intolerance  of  "civil"  marriages. 
These  have  been  permitted  by  the  laws  of  several  nations  which  furnish  emi- 
grants, not  merely  by  such  Protestant  countries  as  Great  Britain  and  the  United 
States,  but  likewise  by  Roman  Catholic  France  and  Italy.  Great  numbers  of 
their  marriages  have  been  celebrated  according  to  the  simple  form  and  regulations 
of  their  permissive  laws  of  civil  matrimony:  yet  Brazil  refuses  to  allow  them  force 
or  validity  within  her  territories!  What  will  be  the  efl'ect  of  such  intolerance 
upon  the  proud  emigrants  from  the  Southern  States,  whom  Brazilians  are  so  wisely 
endeavoring  to  attract,  in  whose  country  a  simple  rite  and  registry  before  a  country 
justice  is  a  usual  form  of  marriage,  yet  is  a  marriage  and  an  evidence  unrecog- 
nized and  invalid  in  Brazilian  courts  of  law  !  Will  these  Americans,  so  rightly 
jealous  of  their  own  and  their  families'  reputation,  willingly  seek  Brazil  while 
she  stamps  upon  their  children  the  brand  of  illegitimacy  ?  Is  not  this  also  into- 
lerance rampant  behind  the  mask  of  "danger  to  the  Church"? 

These  are  matters  well  and  deeply  to  be  pondered  by  Brazilian  legislators,  and 
on  which  some  Brazilian  O'Connell  can  win  reputation  and  the  homage  of  men. 

Let  him  boldly  couch  the  spear  and  overthrow  the  dragon  of  intolerance  at  the 
next  session  of  the  legislature,  and  he  will  find  the  demon  "cant,"  like  Apollyon, 
needs  but  a  vigorous  thrust  to  send  him  howling  from  the  presence  of  the  assem- 
bled wisdom  of  Brazil. 

Immigration  is  yet  a  tender  exotic  in  this  country,  that  calls  for  gentle  handling 
and  careful  culture.  The  weakling  plant  is  promising  fairly  now,  and  now  is  the 
time  to  nourish  it,  to  cull  away  every  weed  that  threatens  injury,  that  the  little 
upshoot,  gaining  strength  and  vigor  day  by  day,  deep-rooting  and  wide-branch- 
ing, may  spread  around  through  all  the  land,  bringing  prosperity  and  happiness 
to  millions,  and  riches  and  power  to  Brazil. 

Note. — Disxenters  in  the  new  House  of  Commons. — There  are  in  the  House  of 
Commons,  as  representatives  of  English  constituencies,  thirteen  Independents, 
twelve  Unitarians,  five  Jews,  three  Catholics,  three  Quakers,  one  Baptist,  and  one 
Wesleyan;  as  representatives  of  Irish  constituencies,  thirty-one  Catholics,  one 
Quaker,  and  one  Independent;  as  representatives  of  Scotch  constituencies,  three 
United  Presbyterians,  two  Free  Churchmen,  one  Independent,  and  one  Unitarian: 
making  the  total  number  of  Dissenters  in  the  new  House  of  Commons  forty-four, 
and  the  number  of  Catholics  thirty-four:  gross  total,  seventy-eight. 


Appendix  J. 


-      PROFESSOR  AGASSIZ'S   LABORS  ON   THE   AMAZON. 

The  wonderful  discoveries  made  by  Professor  Agassiz  in  tlie  fauna  of  the 
Amazon  have  attracted  the  attention  of  the  scientific  world.  In  due  time  these 
great  results  will  doubtless  be  published  by  the  professor  himself.  But  so  great 
is  the  interest  manifested  in  these  explorations  that  I  avail  myself  of  two  letters 
written  by  Dr.  J.  M.  da  Silva  Coutinho,  (the  Brazilian  explorer  of  the  Purus,)  who 
accompanied  the  professor  on  the  Amazon. 

The  first  letter  of  Dr,  Coutinho  from  Mangos,  under  date  of  November  7, 
18U5,  gives  the  following  account  of  the  professor's  researches : — 

"In  the  beginning  of  September  I  wrote  my  first  letter  from  this  capital,  giving 
a  slight  notice  of  my  labors  so  far.  We  had  then  more  than  300  species  collected 
in  Parii,  Tajipurii,  Gurupd,  Porto  de  Moz,  Monte  Alegre,  Villa  Bella,  and  Serpa. 
In  Santar^m  we  collected  only  some  four  species  We  spent  fifteen  days  on  the 
passage  from  Para. 

"  From  Manaos  we  started  on  the  10th  of  September,  on  board  the  Icamiaba, 
bound  for  Tabatinga,  intending  to  pursue  our  voyage  in  the  Peruvian  steamers 
thence  to  the  village  of  Jurimaguas,  and  in  canoe  and  on  foot  from  this  landing 
to  the  eastern  side  of  the  Andes. 

"Several  of  our  travelling  companions  M'ere  to  stay  at  Tabatinga,  S.  Pag^s, 
Nauta,  and  Laguna,  to  make  collections  in  the  Maranhao,  Uallaga,  Ucayalle, 
Napo,  Hyauary,  and  other  affluents  of  the  Soliuiocs  or  Upper  Amazon. 

"We  planned  this  journey  while  awaiting  the  state  of  the  Rio  Negro,  still  at 
the  beginning  of  the  ebb,  as  we  could  make  valuable  collections  only  forty  days 
later. 

"  In  Tefi"6,  during  the  stay  of  the  steamer,  we  collected  some  specimens  of  the 
Acard petroina,  with  its  eggs  in  its  mouth,  and  Professor  Agassiz  had  then  an 
opportunity  of  studying  this  curious  phenomenon,  of  such  great  scientific  interest. 

"We  found  the  ebb  far  advanced  there,  and  the  people  of  the  place  said  that 
there  was  already  abundance  of  fish. 

"  We  started  the  same  day  from  TefF6  [where  Bates  collected  in  1857-59]. 

"  In  Fonte  Boa,  Tunantins,  and  S.  Paulo,  we  found  the  river  lower ;  and  some 
of  the  inhabitants  said  that  the  freshet  could  not  delay  long. 

"  This  circumstance  caused  us  to  alter  the  plan  of  the  voyage,  and  Professor 
Agassiz  resolved  to  return  from  Tabatinga  to  Teffe,  to  remain  at  work  there, 
profiting  by  the  best  time  for  the  fisheries  of  the  Solimoes,  whilst  Dr.  Coutinho 
and  another  would  go  to  the  side  of  the  Andes  to  study  the  geologic  formations 
and  the  vestiges  of  the  ancient  glaciers. 

"When  we  came  to  Tabatinga,  this  plan  was  further  altered  in  view  of  the 
news  from  Peru.     The  civil  war  had  invaded  the  districts  of  Caxamarca  and 

627 


628  Appendix  J. 

Chachapoyas,  through  which  we  had  to  pass,  and  there  was  neither  safety  on  the 
way  nor  means  of  effecting  the  trip.  Besides  this,  as  the  excursion  to  Peru  could 
be  made  at  any  time,  and  the  ichthyological  study  of  the  Solimoes  only  when  the 
river  is  lowest,  almost  all  the  fishes  disappearing  as  soon  as  the  freshet  begins;, 
we  agreed  to  leave  the  work  of  the  Andes  to  a  later  period,  and  to  use  the  time 
of  low  water  in  the  Solimoes. 

"  In  Tabatinga  we  found  the  remnant  of  the  Spanish  commission,  which  had 
descended  by  the  Napo,  having  traversed  the  republic  of  Ecuador.  One  of  the 
members  was  very  sick.     [Spanish  should  doubtless  read  "Peruvian." — j.  c.  f.] 

"There  we  left  Mr.  Bourget  to  make  collections  from  the  Hyauary,  and  Mr. 
James  and  another  to  explore  the  19a,  Hyutay,  and  Hyuru4. 

"On  the  24th  of  September  we  were  in  Tefife.  The  first  fishing  that  we  did 
was  on  the  beaches  of  Nogueira,  five  miles  off,  opposite  the  city.  The  enthusiasm 
of  Professor  Agassiz  seemed  to  reach  ecstasy  on  seeing  the  great  number  of  species 
collected  in  only  three  casts  of  the  net.  'This  success  is  so  great  that  I  feel  my 
head  splitting,'  said  he,  contemplating  the  fishes  on  the  beach. 

"  We  continued  with  much  profit  our  labors  in  the  basin  of  TetF^,  passing 
afterwards  to  the  left  side  of  the  Solimoes  in  company  with  Major  Estulano,  who 
furnished  us  the  occasion  and  means  of  making  a  fine  collection.  The  best 
result  we  obtained  was  in  Lake  Boto,  which  is  one  of  the  deposits  of  water  so 
curious  in  the  islands  of  the  Amazon. 

"The  Parand-Mirim,  the  channel  which  separates  two  islands,  is  obstructed  at 
the  higher  part,  either  because  of  a  bank  formed  before  it  turning  aside  the 
current,  or  of  the  increase  of  the  beaches  at  the  upper  parts  of  the  islands.  The 
ParanA-Mirim  passes  then  to  the  condition  of  a  gulf  or  bay.  During  the  low 
stage  of  tho  river,  these  deposits  contribute  with  their  contingent,  and  so  the 
Bands  little  by  little  advance  towards  the  mouth.  When  the  river  rises  there  is 
not  the  least  emptying  of  the  gulfs :  on  the  contrary,  they  receive  a  part  of  the 
water  of  the  river.  Finally,  the  mouth  di'ies  in  the  summer,  plants  grow,  the 
sediment  increases  the  soil  rapidly,  and  the  gulf  is  transformed  into  a  lake. 

"  As  I  said,  the  labors  in  Lake  Boto  were  very  satisfactory.  The  professor  had 
here  another  opportunity  of  verifying  the  principle  established  by  him  many 
years  ago  upon  the  resemblance  of  the  adults  and  young  of  diverse  genera  of  the 
same  family. 

"  In  the  Tefi"^  he  discovered  a  new  genus  of  the  family  of  the  Scomberesoces, 
which  he  has  named  Limnobelone.  This  genus  is  distinguished  from  the  others 
by  having  the  dorsal  and  anal  fins  larger,  and  the  caudal  rounded.  The  maxillars 
are  like  those  of  the  genus  Belone. 

"  In  Lake  Boto  we  caught  a  young  fish  of  a  new  genus,  having  the  inferior 
maxillar  much  larger  than  the  superior,  entirely  different  from  the  adult,  and, 
under  this  point  of  view,  perfectly  resembling  another  genus  of  the  same  family, 
the  Ilemiramphus  Braziliensis,  which  is  found  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean  and  is  common 
at  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

"Not  less  important  was  the  discovery  made  by  the  professor  in  some  fishes 
of  the  family  of  the  Siluroides,  of  having  only  two  bones  in  the  opercular  appa- 
ratus, when,  until  now,  it  was  believed  to  have  three. 

"In  Teff^  great  assistance  was  rendered  by  Dr.  Romauldo,  the  Juizde  Direito, 
Captain  Joao  da  Cunha,  and  Lieutenant  Pedro  Mendes.  The  old  fisherman  Vicente 
Marquez  gave  us  important  information  on  the  habits  of  the  fishes,  according  to 
which  we  could  settle  on  secure  bases  for  the  distribution  into  species. 


Appendix  J.  629 

"On  the  18th,  our  companion  Mr.  James  arrived,  having  visited  the  19a  and 
Hyutaby,  but  not  having  had  time  to  examine  the  Hyuru:!.*  On  the  21st,  the 
Icamiaba  anchored  in  the  port  on  her  return  from  Tabatinga,  bringing  Mr.  Bourget. 
Both  brought  upwards  of  two  hundred  species.  We  embarked  on  the  same  day, 
and  came  to  this  capital  on  the  23d  of  October. 

"From  want  of  health  and  of  alcohol,  we  have  not  done  here  as  much  as  we 
desired.  In  all  we  collected  seventy-six  species,  almost  all  new,  during  the  three 
days  we  passed  at  Lake  Hyanuary.  The  most  notable  discovery  was  a  new  genus 
of  the  family  of  the  Chromides,  which  has  the  caudal  fin  shaped  like  a  lance,  to 
which  Professor  Agassiz  gave  the  name  of  Dr.  Coutinho. 

"  The  President  of  the  Province  accompanied  us  to  Hyanuary,  and  furnished 
us  all  requisites.     Dr.  Tavares  Bastos  and  other  gentlemen  also  went  with  us. 

"Up  to  this  time  we  have  collected  776  species,  of  which  650  are  new. 

"  The  professor  said,  before  coming  to  the  Amazon,  that  he  would  be  well 
satisfied  if  he  collected  250  new  species.  The  result,  then,  has  been  extraordi- 
nary;  and  the  professor  says  that  it  is  a  true  revelation  for  science. 

"  We  supposed  that  there  would  be  diversity  of  the  species  in  the  black  and 
white  water,  in  the  lakes  and  rivers,  in  the^  upper  part  and  the  mouths ;  but  no  one 
had  imagined  that  it  would  extend  to  the  same  region  where  all  circumstances 
are  identical. 

"The  species  of  Pard  are  entirely  diiferent  from  those  of  Tajapurfi,  these  from 
those  of  Gurupd,  these  from  those  of  Monte  Alegre,  and  so  on.  Even  between 
near  places  there  is  a  notable  diflference,  as  we  observed  in  the  lakes  of  Jos6- 
Assu  and  Maximo,  which  are  not  four  miles  apart,  and  lie  on  the  same  side  of  the 
Tupynambaranas. 

"  The  Amazon,  then,  comprehends  a  great  number  of  ichthyologic  faunae,  or 
provinces  occupied  by  distinct  species. 

"The  knowledge  of  this  fact  opens  new  horizons  to  scientific  researches,  and 
is  the  surest  base  for  the  study  of  the  distribution  of  species. 

"Having  established,  therefore,  the  great  principle,  it  remains  to  know  the 
number  of  the  ichthyologic  provinces,  the  extent  of  their  limits  or  the  situation 
of  the  points  of  contact,  and  the  causes  which  determine  the  differences.  All 
these  questions  exact  long  labors  and  study,  but  their  result  must  be  extraordinary 
and  perhaps  one  of  the  finest  results  yet  obtained  in  the  study  of  nature. 

"  The  surprise  increases  when  we  reflect  that  the  climate  does  not  vary  thr6ugh- 
out  a  great  extent  of  the  Amazon. 

"The  same  phenomenon  that  is  observed  in  the  main  stream  takes  place  in  the 
tributaries;  and,  as  our  labors  were  made  in  a  few  places  of  the  Amazon,  and 
merely,  besides,  in  the  Tapajos,  Hyauary,  19a.  and  Tefi"e,  some  leagues  from  their 
mouths,  an  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  great  result  of  a  complete  exploration  that 
would  embrace  the  courses  and  all  the  tributaries.  There  is  no  exaggeration 
in  supposing  the  existence  of  between  two  and  three  thousand  species  in  the 
valley  of  the  Amazon.  Until  now  only  a  little  more  than  100  were  known. 
Wallace  collected  205  in  the  Rio  Negro ;  his  collection,  however,  was  in  most 
part  lost. 

"With  our  labors  in  the  Negro,  Madeira,  and  in  Alau^s  and  other  parts  of  the 
province  of  Par4,  we  hope  to  find,  perhaps,  300  species  more,  reaching  thus  a 


*  Dr.  Coutinhos  writea  with  an  initial  H  all  those  names  of  the  affluents  of  the   Amazon  whicli 
commence  with  a  J  in  the  map  of  Brazil  affixed  to  this  work. 


630  Appendix  J. 

number  exceeding  1000,  which    are  as  many  as   are   known  at  present  in  the 
Mediterranean. 

"When  Linnffius  published  the  6th  edition  of  his  System  of  Nature,  a  little 
more  than  a  century  ago,  the  number  of  known  species  on  all  the  globe  did  not 
exceed  300.  Now,  however,  the  labors  of  only  three  months  give  the  knowledge 
of  almost  800  in  the  Amazon."  [April,  1866. — The  final  result  of  five  months  is 
Bald  to  be  1300  species. — J.  c.  f.] 

SECOND    LETTER. 

"  ManAos,  November  24,  1865. 

"As  1  said  before,  we  resolved  to  put  off  the  trip  to  Peru  in  consequence  of  the 
news  received  at  Tabatinga  of  affairs  in  that  republic.  The  low  stage  of  water, 
also,  was  nearly  at  its  close,  and  thus  but  little  time  remained  to  make  useful  col- 
lections. As  soon  as  the  rise  commences,  the  beaches  become  covered  and  the 
margins  inundated,  while  the  greater  number  of  the  species  of  fish  leave  the  rivers 
for  the  Igapd,  the  forest  that  borders  the  river  and  remains  flooded  during  winter. 
The  fishes  that  remain  seek  the  deepest  places,  and  the  use  of  the  net  or  hook 
becomes  almost  impossible.  The  only  recourse  to  the  Indian  is  the  arrow  and 
harpoon,  but  fishing  then  becomes  very  slow,  and  not  rarely  the  fisher  has  to 
return  empty-handed. 

"  The  collection  that  we  made  in  the  Teff^  and  its  neighborhood  was  magnifi- 
cent. Besides  numerous  species.  Professor  Agassiz  discovered  many  new  genera, 
acquiring  knowledge,  likewise,  of  some  important  laws  to  which  certain  species 
are  subject  in  their  development,  ignorance  of  which  has  caused  mistakes  in 
classification. 

"  Schomburg,  for  example,  established  as  a  special  characteristic  the  adporous 
protuberance  found  in  the  head  of  some  fishes  of  the  genus  Cychla:  we,  on  the 
contrary,  find  that  this  is  accidental.  We  had  occasion  to  examine  the  Tucunari 
(the  indigenous  name)  without  the  protuberance,  with  it  beginning  to  develop, 
and  after  it  had  attained  its  growth. 

"  This  curious  phenomenon  takes  place  in  the  commencement  of  winter.  The 
fishermen  account  for  it  by  saying  that  the  fish,  while  entering  the  'igap6,' 
strikes  its  head  against  the  trees,  and  therefore  the  inflammation  appears.  The 
trutt  reason,  however,  is  the  critical  state  in  which  the  '  Tucunare '  is  at  the 
beginning  of  winter,  which  is  when  it  spawns. 

"Through  the  profusion  of  some  genera  of  the  family  of  Chromids,  permitting 
the  comparative  study  of  the  young  and  the  adults,  the  professor  was  enabled  to 
lay  down  the  following  law: — that  the  samo  species  presents  different  radicals 
according  to  age. 

"In  some  new  species  of  the  Siluroids  the  professor  found,  likewise,  only  two 
bones  in  the  opercular  apparatus,  whereas  all  the  species  previously  known  had 
three. 

"He  verified  again  the  principle  established  by  him  many  years  ago  on  the 
resemblance  of  adult  and  young  individuals  of  different  genera  of  the  same 
family.  A  new  genus  was  found  belonging  to  the  family  of  the  Scomber osoces, 
which  he  called  Lymnobelona,  and  which  was  distinguished  from  the  others  by 
having  the  dorsal  and  anal  fins  greater,  and  the  caudal  rounded.  As  in  the  genus 
Belona,  the  maxillars  are  equal. 

"  Some  time  afterwards  we  caught  a  young  one  of  the  new  genus,  having  the 
lower  maxillar  much  greater  than  the  upper  one,  and  in  this  point  of  view  some- 


Appendix  J.  G31 

what  resembling  the  other  genus  of  the  same  family,  the  Ilemiramphus  Braziliensis, 
inhabiting  the  sea,  and  found  on  almost  all  the  coast  of  Brazil. 

"  At  Mandos  we  collected  150  more  species,  almost  all  in  the  Lake  Hyanuary, 
opposite  the  city. 

"To-day  there  arrived  in  the /cammia  a  fine  collection  brought  by  the  two 
parties  sent  to  Lakes  Manacdpurfi  and  Cudayiis.  In  two  bottles  alone  the  pro- 
fessor found  sixty-eight  species;  and  we  hope  to  iind  a  greater  number  in  the 
eight  barrels  not  j'et  opened. 

"  The  collection  made  up  to  now  consists  of  970  species,  of  which  more  than 
700  are  new.  Imagine  the  surprise  and  pleasure  of  Professor  Agassiz  in  view  of 
60  great  a  result,  who  wlien  entering  the  Amazon  considered  himself  fortunate 
should  he  find  250  species. 

"  The  results  that  we  obtained  at  the  first  points  made  us  believe  that  the  great 
river  possessed  many  distinct  faunae  of  the  ichthyological  provinces:  however, 
when  at  our  last  two  we  explored  some  igarapes  (smaller  rivers)  and  lakes,  distant 
from  one  another  not  more  than  1200  yards,  we  saw  then  that  the  number  was 
extraordinary.  The  collection  of  so  great  a  number  of  species  in  a  few  places, 
and  during  only  three  months,  surprises  the  more  when  we  reflect  that,  in  1840, 
Captain  Wilkes  collected  only  600  in  a  voyage  round  the  globe,  with  three  ships, 
in  an  expedition  lasting  four  years. 

"  As  yet  we  cannot  determine  what  number  of  species  a  single  region  contains, 
on  account  of  the  rarity,  and  of  the  little  time  at  command.  At  present  we  are 
treating  of  this  important  question  in  Lake  Hyanuary. 

•'  The  family  of  Chromidn  is  one  of  those  wbich  show  the  greatest  sensibility  to 
changes  of  their  mode  of  living,  and  therefore  the  most  important  discoveries 
made  by  us  appertain  to  them.  It  comprehends,  in  the  Amazon,  the  fishes  known 
as  the  Tucunare,  Jacundus,  and  Acards. 

"Fifteen  new  genera  have  now  been  established  by  the  professor,  embracing 
the  fishes  that  live  by  preference  in  the  igarapes,  and  he  thinks  of  separating  two 
of  these  genera  into  families,  in  consequence  of  their  general  characters,  some 
belonging  to  the  Gobioides  and  others  to  Cyprinodontes.  Those  fishes  are  known 
by  the  name  of  Amore,  and  are  found  only  at  the  west  part  of  the  island  of 
Marajo,  at  the  place  Taypurli.  This  circumstance  makes  us  believe  that  the 
Amores  determine  approximately  the  point  to  which  the  waters  of  the  ocean 
reach  in  the  Amazon. 

"The  most  interesting  genus,  however,  in  the  opinion  of  the  professor,  is  one 
discovered  by  us  in  Lake  Hyanuary,  opposite  this  city.  It  came,  so  to  say,  to 
strengthen  the  union  of  the  families,  serving  as  intermediate  between  others 
rather  separated,  as  those  of  the  Jacundds  (Crenia/chla),  and  divers  Acards  [Sa- 
ianoperea,  Hjigrogonus).  The  structure  of  the  caudal  fin  of  the  new  genus  is  an 
exaggeration  of  the  Jacnndd  type,  in  consequence  of  the  prolongation  of  its  medial 
rays,  whilst  the  dorsal  and  anal  fins  are  equally  elongated  in  the  posterior  part, 
as  in  the  true  Acards.     The  body  resembles  the  Jacundd. 

"According  to  the  professor,  the  name  Foh/morphes  suits  the  Chromids  v!q\\. 
Its  genera  resemble  the  greater  part  of  those  of  the  families  inhabiting  the  ocean, 
many  rivers  of  the  East  Indies,  and  other  points  of  the  globe.  In  the  Amazon, 
then,  representatives  of  a  great  proportion  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  waters  are 
found.  This  family  is  one  of  those  most  widely  spread,  although  the  greater 
number  of  its  species  are  found  in  South  America.  Represented  in  the 
whole  of  tropical  Asia,  it  extends  to  Africa  on  the  western  coast  to  the  Cape  of 


682  Appendix  J. 

Good  Hope.  In  America  it  is  met  with  in  all  the  streams  of  the  continent,  from 
Patagonia  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico;  being  substituted  in  the  North  by  the  Ehjchiida 
[Centrarchids),  which  might  well  be  joined  with  the  true  Chromids. 

"The  professor  has  paid  particular  attention  to  the  study  of  the  Chromids,  on 
account  of  the  difficulties  presented  in  the  knowledge  of  the  species. 

"It  is  almost  impossible  to  determine  with  precision  the  special  characteristics 
of  these  fishes  without  examining  a  great  number  of  specimens,  because  the 
young  and  adult  differ  considerably  in  some  genera,  and  there  is  a  notable  differ- 
ence between  the  two  sexes.  In  some  genera  the  young  have  a  more  elongated 
form  than  the  adults;  the  contrary  happening  in  others.  It  is  by  the  color,  how- 
ever, that  the  adults  are  most  distinguishable  from  the  young.  The  Tucunares, 
for  example,  when  completely  developed  are  remarkable  for  their  brilliant  fjlors, 
transversal  stripes,  and  a  beautiful  dark-blue  spot  on  the  tail,  having  a  yello\vish 
or  pink  fringe.  The  young,  on  the  other  hand,  are  pale,  and  have  only  a  lof^gi- 
tudinal  stripe.  In  the  new  Fleo7-oj)o,  the  longitudinal  stripes  that  the  young  ha^e 
are  substituted  in  adolescence  by  some  black  spots  on  the  sides  and  tail.  Th^i 
contrary  is  observed  in  the  genus  Mesonauta.  A  line  of  black  dots,  which  the " 
young  have,  disposed  diagonally  on  the  sides,  is  transformed  by  age  into  a  con- 
tinuous streak;  and  in  other  genera  modifications  more  or  less  remarkable, 
according  to  age,  are  observed. 

"It  is  therefore  evident  that,  to  appreciate  these  great  differences,  the  exami- 
nation of  one  individual  is  insufficient.  For  this  reason  the  descriptions  published 
up  to  the  present  time  cannot  give  an  exact  idea  of  these  fishes,  and  it  is  very 
probable  that  some  fishes,  considered  as  different  species,  are  only  the  same  at 
different  ages.  Still  more:  the  adults  vary,  likewise,  according  to  the  season, 
and  at  the  time  of  spawning,  during  .which  they  have  the  most  brilliant  colors. 
On  this  point,  however,  the  inquiries  require  much  time.  The  difference  of  cha- 
racter between  the  sexes  does  not  appear  to  be  the  same  in  all  the  genera. 
The  most  considerable  we  found  among  the  Cychla  and  Geophagus  [Tuczmare  and 
Acardyne).  The  male  possesses  at  the  milting  season  an  adporous  protuberance 
in  the  head,  as  I  have  already  mentioned^  and  which  Schomburg  gives  as  special 
characteristic  of  the  species  Cychla  trifasciata  and  Cychla  niyromaculata. 

"  The  habits  of  the  Chromids  are  very  variable.  Whilst  some  swim  at  the  sur- 
face, as  the  Lepterophilum  [Acard-pena]  and  the  Mesonauta  [Acard  Merere),  others 
descend  a  little  below.  Of  this  kind  is  the  genus  Cychla;  but  the  Ilygroyonua 
does  not  leave  the  bottom,  and,  buried  in  the  mud,  often  escapes  the  net.  This 
genus,  which  comprehends  the  Acara-assu,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful,  from  the 
carmine  spots  that  the  fishes  have  on  the  tail,  upon  the  dorsal  and  side  fins.  Its 
habit  is  to  leave  eggs  in  the  orifices  found  in  the  banks,  and  to  remain  there  until 
the  young  can  accompany  it. 

"The  fishes  of  genera  Geophagus  and  Satanoperca  (^Acardyane  and  Acaratinga) 
keep  the  eggs  in  a  pouch  formed  by  the  superior  pharyngeal  bones,  which  curve 
upon  the  branchial  arches. 

"  The  professor  had  an  opportunity  of  studying  the  complete  development  of 
the  eggs,  (observing  the  newly-born  in  the  branchial  pouch  up  to  their  state  of 
swimming  freely,)  in  the  species  to  which  he  gave  the  name  of  the  Emperor, 
Geophagus  Pedroinus,  and  of  which  he  made  a  complete  study.* 

*  This  fish  wati  Sr?t  discovered  on  the  22dof  Novfmber,  1862,  by  Sr.  Henrique  Antonii  and  J.  C.  F., 
while  collecting  specimens  for  Professor  Agassiz,  in  an  igarapi  on  the  island  of  Pupagayos,  opposite 
the  Slanilos. 


Appendix  J.  633 

"The  configuration  of  the  head  is  very  curious  in  these  species  that  preserve 
the  eggs  in  the  branchial  pouch.  They  have  a  nervous  protuberance,  resembling 
the  electric  lobule  of  the  Malapterurus,  in  the  part  posterior  to  the  cerebellum, 
serving  as  a  root  to  the  nerve  that  is  prolonged  hence  to  the  inferior  branchial 
arch,  forming,  evidently,  such  a  centre  of  special  action  as  is  shown  in  the 
marsupial  pouch.  For  this  reason  the  protuberance  well  merits  the  name  of 
^genetic  lobule.' 

"About  thirty  years  ago  the  family  of  the  Chromids  was  established,  almost  at 
the  same  time,  by  Heckel  and  jNIUUer,  with  some  genera  of  the  Lahroides  and 
Scienoides  of  Cuvier.  The  number  of  its  species  was  then  very  limited.  In  the 
British  Museum  catalogue  published  in  1862,  which  gives  the  last  and  most  com- 
plete enumeration  of  this  family,  the  number  of  its  species  in  all  the  world  is 
110,  distributed  in  19  genera.  Of  these  species,  only  12  belonged  to  the  Amazon. 
Now,  however,  we  have  here  120  species,  almost  all  new, — that  is,  a  greater  number 
than  were  known  in  1862  in  all  points  of  the  globe. 

"At  another  opportunity  I  will  speak  of  the  families  of  the  Siluroids  and 
Characins. 

"In  the  next  fortnight  we  purpose  setting  out  for  Mauds,  and  thence  to  Pard." 


A   A^OLCANO   IN   SOUTHERN   BRAZIL. 
Captain  Burton,  F.R.G.S.,  English  Consul  at  Santos,  writes  a  brief  but  inte- 
resting letter  to   "The  Anglo-Brazilian  Times,"  in  regard  to  the  discovery  of  a 
volcano  in  Southern  Brazil,  about  half-way  between  S.  Paulo  and  Paranagua. 

"Mr.  Editor: — I  was  canoeing  down  the  river  of  Iguapd, — in  this  consular 
district, — it  is  called,  ridiculously  enough,  the  Ribeira,  or  rivulet, — when,  calling 
on  the  excellent  vigario  (vicar)  of  Xiririca,  M.  J.  Gabriel  da  Silva  Cardoso,  and 
looking  over  his  Livro  do  Tombo,  (Parish  Register,)  I  was  struck  by  the  name  of 
a  place,  in  the  Tupi  or  Lingua  Geral  'Vutupoca,'  translated  Morro  que  rebenta, 
'hill  that  explodes.'  On  the  other  side  of  the  river,  bearing  southwest  from  the 
vicarage,  rose  the  morro,  clothed  with  trees  cap-d-pie,  an  isolated  gradual  cone, 
with  a  distinctly  volcanic  outline.  Its  northeastern  face  is,  I  was  told,  a  perpen- 
dicular rock. 

"The  fearful  rains  of  January,  1866,  prevented  my  ascending  the  Exploding 
Hill.  But  the  result  of  many  local  inquiries  was  that  as  lately  as  fifteen  years 
ago  flame  has  been  seen  rising  from  the  hill,  and  the  phenomenon  was  accompa- 
nied by  rumblings  and  explosions  which  extended  across  the  river  to  the  opposite 
range  of  Bananal  Pequeno. 

"You  will,  I  hope,  hear  from  me  again.  Should  this  report  of  a  dormant  vol- 
cano in  Southern  Brazil  be  confirmed  by  absolute  exploration,  the  discovery  will 
be  of  no  little  value  in  a  geograpliical  point  of  view.  And  these  lines  may  per- 
haps, should  I  be  unable  to  carry  out  my  project,  induce  another  and  a  better 
man  to  undertake  the  task.  It  is  not,  you  will  remember,  half  a  century  ago 
when  the  scientific  men  of  Europe  declared  that  no  volcanic  formations,  and  cer- 
tainly no  volcanoes,  could  be  found  in  this  magnificent  empire. 
"I  am,  sir, 

"Your  obedient  servant, 

RICHARD   F.  BURTON,  F.R.G.S. 

"  Hotel  Milton,  Santos,  Brazil." 


Appendix  K. 


THERMOMETRICAL  OBSERVATIONS  AT  RIO  DE  JANEIRO  IN  1804. 


Centigrade 

The  same  reduced  to  Fahrenheit. 

7    A.M. 

1   P.M. 

5    P.M. 

7   A.M. 

1    P.M. 

5   P.M. 

Average. 

25.350 
25.399 
24.970 
24.240 
21.920 
20.029 
19.229 
20.1;i0 
20.700 
21.844 
23.321 
24.839 

27.250 
27.820 
27.155 
26.762 
23.986 
22.800 
22.221 
22.781 
22.838 
23.951 
■  24.815 
26.519 

26.719 
27.040 
28.052 
26.081 
23.484 
22.392 
21.855 
22.017 
22.414 
23.127 
24.672 
25.233 

7°7.630 
77.718 
76.946 
75.632 
71.456 
68.052 
66.612 
68.234 
69.260 
71.319 
73.978 
76.710 

81.0.50 
82.076 
80.879 
80.172 
75.175 
73.051 
71.998 
73.006 
73.110 
76.112 
76.667 
79.734 

8°0.094 
80.672 
82.494 
78.946 
74.271 
72.306 
71..339 
71.631 
72.34.'i 
73.629 
76.410 
77.419 

o 
79.591 

80.155 

80.107 

78.250 

May 

73.634 

71.136 

July 

69.984 

70.957 

71.571 

73..353 

75  684 

77.954 

Meteorological  and  other  observations  by  Lieutenants  (Brazilian  Navy)  Jos6  da  Costa  Azevedo  and 

Joao  Soares  Pinto,  of  the  Commission  for  settling  the  limits  between  Brazil  and  Peru. 

Average  Temperature,  each  month  for  si.\  months,  at  Para,  (lat.  S.  1°  27'  06",)  from  observations  in 

the  street  of-S.  Jeronimo,  from  November  to  April  inclusive,  1861-62. 


Reaumur. 

The  same  by  therm.  Fahrenreit. 

7    A.M. 

1    P.M. 

5    P.M. 

7    A.M. 

1   P.M. 

5   P.M. 

20.0 
20.1 
20.4 
19.5 
19.3 
19.5 

22.2 
22.6 
22.6 
22.8 
22.5 
23.5 

21.7 
21.5 
21.4 
,  21.8 
22.1 
21.8 

77. 

77.2 

78 

75,8 

75.4 

75.8 

82 

82.8 

82.8 

83.3 

82.6 

84.8 

80  8 

80  3 

80  1 

81 

81  7 

81 

Average  for  six  months 

19.6 

22.8 

21.7 

76           1       83.3 

80.8 

Average  Temperature  each  month  for  six  months  in  1S62,  at  Manaos  (Barra),  from  observations  on 
the  grounds  for  the  Cathedral  [Igrega  Matriz]. 


May 

June 

July 

Augiist 

September. 
October 


Average  tor  six  months. 


7   A.M. 


20.9 

20.5 
20.9 
20.8 
20.3 
21.8 


20.9 


1   P.M. 


22.2 
22.2 
23.3 
23.9 
24.6 
24.9 


23.5 


5  P.M. 


21.8 
22.5 
23.4 

23.1 
23.7 
24 


23.2 


The  same  by  therm.  Fahrenheit. 


7  A.M. 


79 

7?.l 

79 

78.8 

77.6 

81 


79 


1    P.M. 


82 

82 

84.4 

85.7 

87.3 

88 


84.8 


84.6 
84 

85.3 


Si.2 


Nnte.—The  lowest  average  at  Para  recorded  by  Srs.  Soares  and  Pinto  was  that  of  December,  at  5 
A.M.,  when  it  was  Reaumur  18.7,  (Fahrenheit  74.7  ;)  but  there  is  no  5  A.M.  record  for  the  four  succeeding 
months.  The  lowest  average  at  Man.^os  in  the  six  hottest  months  of  the  year  was  in  June,  at  10  p.m., 
Reaumur  19,  (Fahrenheit  74.7,)  and  at  3  a.m.,  Reaumur  19.2,  (Fahrenheit  74.9.)  Pari  is  dryer  and  a  little 
cooler  than  Manaos. 
634 


Appendix  K. 


635 


Latitude  South. 

Longitude  '^est 
of  Greenwich. 

Ordinary  Level 
of  Kiver  above 
that  of  the  Ocean. 

Declivity  of  the 
Amazon  current, 
in  English  feet. 

Parfi, 

1°  27' 
1    43 
1    24 

1  49 

2  24 

1  55 

2  37 

3  08 
3    08 

06" 

08 

57 

00 

50 

03 

25 

05 

04 

48°  26'  17" 
60    25    39 
51    34    47 

53  25    64 

54  39    14 

55  26    29 
66    40    58 

58  22    24 

59  57     03 

Metres. 
10.71 
12.49 
13.09 
14.62 
15.38 
17.70 
24.23 
25.26 
28.19 
35.09 
36.79 
37.34 
3S.03 
38.26 
45.99 

Feet.  Inches. 
35          1.6 

40        11.7 

42        11.3 

47        11.6 

50          5.5 

Obidost 

68          0.8 

Villa  Bella]: 

79          5.9 

84          2.2 

92         5.8 

115          1.5 

Teffe  (or  Ega) 

120         8.4 

123          9.8 

124          9.2 

Villa  de  S.  P.  d'OIiveuca. 

125          6.3 

4    15 

00 

69     62    13 

150        10.6 

*  On  the  island  of  Marajo,  (southwest  portion,)  131  geographical  miles  from  Par&. 

f  The  tide  reaches  Obidos  during  the  lowest  stage  of  water. 

J  Sometimes  called  Villa  Nova. 

g  Before  the  careful  observations  of  Srs.  J.  da  Costa  Azevedo  and  Scares  Piuto,  the  estimates  of 
the  elevation  of  the  river  above  the  level  of  the  ocean  were  mere  guesses :  e.  g.  the  level  of  the  river 
at  Manaos  was  placed  by  Spix  and  Martias  at  169  (metres)  57cms.  (English  feet  556  4  inches)  above 
the  ocean,  Castelnau  at  62m.  4Scms.  (204  feet  Hi  inches),  and  by  Herndon,  1475  feet(!);  whereas  the 
real  level  above  the  ocean  is  92  feet  b\  inches.  Can  there  be  found  elsewhere  in  this  world  such  a 
channel  for  internal  narigation  ? 

THE  DECLIVITY   OF  THE  AMAZON   PER  LEAGUE*  (PORTUGTJESE)  FROM   TABATINGA 

TO  parI. 


From  Tabatinsa  to  Villa  S.  P.  d'Olivenga 

"      A'illa  d'6liven9a  to  Teffe  (Ega) 

"      Teffe  to  Coary 

"      Coary  to  Manaos 

Manaos  to  Scrpa         (129  geographical  miles).. 


Serpa  to  Villa  Bella  (159 
Villa  Bella  to  Obidos  (105 
Obidos  to  Santarem  (  73 
Santarem  to  Prainha  (100 
Prainha  to  Gurupi  (143 
Guriipa  to  Breves  (119 
Breves  to  Para  (131 

Para  to  mouth  of  the  Amazon. 

Average  declivity  per  league... 


do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 


2.720 
2.400 
2.S70 
2.970 
2.940 
3.200 
3.690 
3.S60 
4.140 
4.910 
6.900 
7.810 
6.847 


4.090,  or  1  inch  per  mile. 


Count  de  Castelnau's  observations  in  1844  make  the  declivity  per  league  4.14  inches. 

*  The  ordinary  Portuguese  league  is  about  four  English  miles. 

Note. — I  observed  the  tide  at  Obidos  in  November,  1862 ;  Mr.  Bates,  in  1S55,  observed  it  on  the 
Tapajos,  a  distance  of  530  miles  from  the  ocean.  This  tide  is  of  fresh  water  banked  up  or  diivcn 
inward  by  the  regular  ocean  tide. — J.  F.  C. 


Time  Table  of  the  United  States  and  Brazil  Lixe. 
(From  the  agent,  W.  R.  Garrison,  Esq.,  5  Bowling-Green,  New  York.) 


Passage  from  New  York  to  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

a  . 

^  Cm 
ai 

hours. 

12 
22 
11 
12 

—  .J 
Passage  from  Rio  de  Janeiro  to  New  York.     g>  § 

Leave  N.  Y  22J  of  each  mo.  of  30  days,  3  p.m. 

Arrive  at  St    Thomas       (14U0  miles)  the  29th 
"             P;ir.i                     (1610      "     )the    7th 
"            Peruambuco      (1090      "    )  the  15th 
"            Bahia            .     (375     '     )  the  17th 
"            Rio  .laneiro        (  725     "     )  the  20th 

Total 5200  miles  run. 

Total  running  time  25  days,  15  hours. 

Leave  Rio  the  25th  of  each  month,  at  2  p.m. 

Arrive  at  Bahia             (  725  miles)  the  2.'ilh 
"           Pernambuco(  375     "    )  the    1st 
"           Para               (1090     "    )  the    6th 
"          St.  Thomas   (1«10     "    )  the  14th 
"           New  York      (1400     "    )  the  21st 

Total  running  time,  22  days  16  hxiurs. 
Four  calls,   2     "     23      " 

hours. 

12 
13 
34 
12 

28  days. 

N.  B.  —  In  months  having  31  days  the  steam- 
ers leave  New  York  the  23d. 

26  days  15  hours. 

From  New  York  to  Rio  and  back  58  days 
15  hours. 

N.  B.  —  The  steamers  will  leave  Rio  the 
26th  of  months  having  31  d.Tys. 

The  United  States  and  Brazil  Mail  Steamship  Company  corresponds,  first,  at  St.  Thomas  with  the 
English,  French,  and  Spanish  steamers  which  run  to  43  ports  in  the  West  Indies,  Me.xico,  Central 
America,  New  Grenada,  Venezuela,  and  the  Guianas;  with  the  English  and  French  lines  to  Kurope; 
2d,  at  I'arV  it  corresponds  with  the  Amazon  Navigation  (Brazilian)  Company-s  steamboats,  which  run 
up  as  far  as  Peru  and  are  in  connection  with  Peruvian  steamboats  on  the  upper  Amazon,  Sjpd  with 
Brazilian  coast  steamers  for  Maranham,  Ceara,  &c. ;  3d,  at  Rio  with  the  French  and  English  steamers 
which  go  to  Montevideo  and  Buenos  Ayres,  (the  French  line  leaving  Rio  on  the  22d  of  each  month.) 
We  understand  that  the  time  is  to  be  shortened.  Mr.  A.  Arango,  of  New  York,  was  the  successful  ad- 
vocate of  the  company  at  Rio  in  1865.    Mr.  J.  F.  Navarro  was  the  New  York  agent  until  Juue,  1866.     . 


Index. 


Abdication  of  Dom  Pedro  I.,  1,  83. 
Aboriginal  names,  306. 
Aborigines,  466. 
Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  261. 
Academy  of  Laws,  369. 
Acclamation  of  Dom  Pedro  II.,  223. 
Administration  of  Brazilian  law,  2d3. 
Advertisements,  254. 
Agassiz,  210,  250,  and  Aiipendix  J,  627. 
Alagoaz,  province  of,  611. 
Alto-Amazon;iS,  province  of,  563. 
Amazon  River,  539,  55 i. 

canoa,  551. 

Cetacea  of,  555. 

discovery  of,  563. 

entrance  to,  541. 

expeditious,  563",  568,  574,  581. 

explorations,  554. 

first  Protestant  sermon  on  the,  542. 

future  of,  581. 

Navigation  Company,  547. 

origin  of  name,  666. 

source,  573. 

Bteamer.-i,  575. 

tributaries,  673. 

Valley  (area  of),  574. 
imazons,  tribe  of,  576. 
Amenities  of  quarantine  life,  514. 
American  Cemetery,  485. 

factory,  274. 

machinery,  501. 

Seaman's  Friend  Society,  200. 

sheep,  431. 
Americus  Vespucius  in  Brazil,  49. 
Anacondas,  508. 

one  that  swallowed  a  horse,  509. 
Andrada,  Antonio  C,  215,  218,  222,  373,  377. 

death  of,  383. 

Jose  Bonifacio,  72,  73,  83,  215,  224,  272,  323. 

Martin  Francisco.  73,  220,  224,  376,  383. 
Annoyances  magnified,  507. 
Ant-hills,  .359. 
Araguya  explorations,  463. 
Armadillo,  193. 

Astronomy  under  difficulties,  429. 
Asylums,  107-123. 
Aymores,  ferocity  of,  471. 

Bahia,  city  of,  475,  476. 

history  of,  478,  479 . 

recaptured  from  Hollanders,  482. 

sociability  of,  484. 


Bahia,  Tiew  of,  489. 

Baronial  style,  440. 

Bastos,  A.  C.  Tavares,  139, 186,  IPT. 

Bates,  581. 

Bay  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  14. 

Beautiful  panorama,  516. 

scenery,  345. 
Bees,  indigenous,  455. 
Bennett's,  206,  210. 
Bible  Christian,  519. 

distribution,  266,  306,  336. 
Bird  Colony,  405. 
Bishop  Moura,  379. 
Boat-bill,  571. 
Boa  Vista,  279. 
Botanical  gardens,  208. 
Brazil,  discovery  of,  by  Pinzon,  46. 

Cabral,  47. 

first  governor,  50. 

independence,  71. 

origin  of  name,  49. 

revolution  in,  72. 
Brazilian  Constitution,  76,  and  Appendix  B,  603. 

dinner,  310. 

funerals,  203. 

Historical  and  Geographical  Institute,  261. 

Jupiter  Pluvius,  272. 

literature,  251,  586. 

writers,  586. 
Bridge  of  novel  construction,  411. 
Brotero  of  San  Paulo,  426. 
Brotherhoods,  107-123. 
Burial  of  the  Innocents,  .343. 
Burton's  discovery  of  a  volcano,  Appendix  J,  633» 

Cadeiras,  476,  477. 

Campinas,  400. 

Campos,  465. 

Campo  Santa  Anna,  211. 

Candiota  coal,  Appendix  H,  617 

Canoe  voyage,  328. 

Canta  Gallo,  292. 

Cape  Frio,  464. 

Captain  Foster,  235. 

Carumarfl,  478. 

Cascades,  206. 

Cear4,  527. 

exploration  of,  502. 
Charlatanism,  342. 

Chinese  tea,  its  culture  in  Brazil.  419,  420. 
City  of  Pittsburgh,  2.35. 
Climate  of  Brazil,  269,  and  Appendix  K,  63t 
637 


638 


Index. 


Coal-mines,  347,  and  Appendix  H,  617. 
Coffee,  its  history  and  culture,  449. 
Colleges,  178. 
Colonia  Donna  Francisca,  334. 

Joinville,  332. 
Commerce  of  Brazil,  194.  Appendix  G,  614. 
Commerce  with  United  States,  501. 
Constancia,  2S3. 

Constitution  of  Brazil,  76,  and  Appendix  B,  603. 
Convents,  107-123. 
Cool  resorts,  270. 
Cormorant  and  slavers,  315. 
Coronation  of  D.  Pedro  II.,  225. 
Cotton-factory,  4&3. 
Council  of  State,  227. 
Course  of  law  study,  .371. 
Curious  items  of  trade,  360. 
Curious  trial,  265. 

Daring  navigation,  497. 

Deceived  custom-house  officials,  421. 

De  la  Condamiue,  568. 

Desterro,  344. 

Diamond-  and  gold-mines,  448,  462,  463,  and  Ap- 
pendix 11,  624. 

Difficulties  overcome,  241. 

Discoveries  of  new  species  of  fish  by  Agassiz,  Ap- 
pendix J,  627. 

Diseases  in  Brazil,  417,  and  Appendix  F,  609. 

Distinguished  men,  373. 

Dom  Joao  VI.,  64,  69. 

Dom  Pedro  I.,  69,  71,  73-85. 

Dom  Pedro  II.,  231-250. 

Dr.  Kane  and  Lieut.  Strain,  459. 

Education,  16.3, 176, 178. 

El  Dorado,  564. 

Emigrants"  instructions,  terms,  ic,  333,  592. 

Emperor  of  Prazil,  231-250. 

his  remarkable  talents,  232. 
on  board  an  American  steamer,  235. 
Emperor's  birthday,  491. 
English  Cemetery,  201. 
:bapel,  202. 
engineer,  318. 
Enslavement  of  the  Indians,  368. 
Espiritu  Santo,  4R5. 

Events  after  abdication  of  Dom  Pedro  I.,  213. 
Excursions,  207. 

Exhibition  of  Uaited  States  manufactures,  239. 
E.xpenses  of  travelling,  6,  295. 
Exploration  of  rivers,  463,  502. 
Extent  of  the  empire,  433. 
Extraordinary  fanaticism  of  Sebastianists,  520. 

Fallen  forest,  .338. 

Falls  of  Itamarity,  435. 

Family  re<reatiuus,  175. 

Feijo,  Bishop,  senator  and  regent,  216,  380. 

Finest  steam-voyage  in  the  world,  198. 

Fire-flics,  233. 

Firsi  Protestant  church  in  America,  54.  I 


First  steamer  at  Coimbra  (Upper  Paraguay),  459 
Fish  on  the  Amazon,  Appendix  J,  627. 

on  the  Madeira,  556. 
Forest  flowers  and  scenery,  277. 
Foundling  Hospital,  113. 
Fourth  of  July  in  an  English  family,  426. 
Frade  Vasconcellos,  357. 
French  in  Brazil,  54,  62. 
Funerals,  203. 
Furquim  d'Almeida's  speech,  594. 

Gigantic  fig-tree,  437. 

Gillmer,  484. 

Godin,  Madame,  56S. 

Goyaz,  province  of,  453,  454. 

Great  ant-eater.  445. 

Guaran4,  Preface  to  Sth  Edition. 

Happy  valley,  287. 

Heath,  Mr.,  284. 

Heaven  of  the  moon,  357. 

Herds  and  herdsmen,  348. 

Herndon's  explorations,  574. 

Historical  and  Geographical  Institute,  261. 

Historical  data,  369. 

Hollanders  in  Brazil,  481. 

Home-life,  163,  169. 

Homeward  bound,  423.        , 

Hospitalities  of  a  padre,  385. 

Hospitals,  107-123. 

Huguenots,  54. 

Humming-bird,  484. 

Hunter,  Hon.  William,  227. 

Image  factory,  494. 
Immediate  reforms  needed,  589. 
Imperial  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  261. 

marriages,  229. 
Improvements  of  Recife,  514. 
Incorrect  judgments,  310. 
Indian  archery,  558. 

revolution  at  Para,  543 
Indians,  351,  470. 
India  rubber,  552. 
In  puris  naturalibus,  498. 

Jacana,  572. 

Jaguar,  or  Brazilian  tiger,  445,  557. 

Jangada,  525. 

Journals  of  Rio,  253. 

Journey  to  San  Paulo,  354. 

Judge  Petit's  description  of  Maranham,  533,  634. 

Keel-bill,  437. 

Lady's  impressions  of  travel,  273. 

Lasso,  349. 

Law  students  and  convents,  361. 

Limeira.  402. 

Lingoa  Geral,  471. 

Literature,  251,  588. 

Lodging  and  sleeping,  395. 

Longfellow,  Hawthorne,  and  Webster,  249. 


Index. 


639 


Long  river-route  to  Atlantic,  456. 
Lopez  and  Paraguay,  352. 

Machado,  Alvares,  377. 

Magnificence  of  nature,  539. 

Mandioca,  189. 

Maranliam,  city  of,  533. 

Marmoset,  510. 

Martyn,  Henry,  486,  487. 

Matto  Grosso,  456. 

Mawe's  experience,  362. 

Medical  schools,  180,  490. 

Mexico  and  Brazil  compared,  77. 

Mines  and  other  resources  of  Minas  Geraes,  448. 

Miracle  explained,  495. 

Missionary  efforts  iu  San  Paulo,  386. 

Montaria,  538. 

Montserrat,  498. 

Mulatto  improvisator,  272. 

Museum,  266. 

Musical  cart,  447. 

innkeeper,  426. 

Natal,  527. 

National  library,  259. 

Navigation  on  Paraguay,  459. 

New  disease,  416. 

New  York  Historical  Society,  237. 

Night  among  the  lowly,  398,  399. 

Night  travelling,  354. 

Night  with  a  boa-constrictor,  403. 

Nova  Friburgo,  295. 

Old  Congo's  spurs,  397. 
Omnibus,  38,  42. 
Opening  of  Parliament,  211. 
Orchidaceous  plants,  341. 
Organ  Mountains,  277. 
their  height,  282. 
Origin  of  Indian  civilization,  467. 
Overthrow  of  Rosas,  351. 

Paca,  446. 

Palace  of  viceroys,  27. 

S.  Christoviio,  248. 
Palm-tree  and  its  uses,  468,  469. 
Pard,  540,  551,  560. 
Paraguay  tea,  or  mat6,  321, 
Parahiba  do  Norte,  526. 
Parallel  to  the  Black  Hole  of  Calcutta,  545. 
Parana,  province  of,  326. 

first  president  of,  321. 
Paula  Souza's  letter  to  American  emigrants,  592. 
Paviola,  527. 
Pedro  11.  Railway,  302. 
Peixe-boi,  555. 

Pennsylvanian  in  Brazil,  402. 
Pernambuco,  515. 

commerce  of,  521. 

houses  of,  515. 
Peter  Parley  in  Brazil,  439. 
Petrojjulis,  oUl. 


Pizarro,  Gon9alo,  563. 

Plan  of  colonization,  412,  413. 

Plant,  Nathaniel,  347,  607,  609. 

Plantation  in  Minas  Geraes,  438. 

Plantation  orchestra,  441,  442. 

Ponte  da  Area,  192. 

Population  of  interior,  522. 

Porters,  476. 

Portuguese  language  and  literature,  588. 

Praia  Grande,  187. 

Probable  extension  of  tea-culture  in  America,  422. 

Produce  of  Amazon,  553. 

Proposition  to  abolish  celibacy,  381. 

Provincial  revolts,  351. 

Purtis  River,  502. 

Railroads.  299,  302,  365. 

Religious  disabilities,  594,  and  Appendix  I,  625. 

Republic  of  Palmiires,  512. 

Respect  for  San  Paulo,  364. 

Reverses  of  .Jesuits,  368. 

Rio  de  Janeiro,  21. 

Bay  of,  15,  51. 

capital  of  Brazil,  187. 

City  Improvements  Company,  89. 

Custom-IIouse,  30. 

early  condition,  61. 

Exchange,  28. 

founded,  58. 

historic  reminiscences,  14. 

journals,  251. 

libraries,  259. 

literary  and  scientific  societies,  220. 

markets,  170. 

municipal  government,  124. 

paving,  4.3,  87,  106. 

public  promenade,  41. 

squares,  25,  38,  211. 

Rua  Direita,  27. 
Ouvidor,  36. 

schools,  177. 

splendid  views,  19,  22,  88,  192,  205. 

"  tigers,"  89. 

under  the  viceroys,  63. 
Rio  Grande  do  Norte,  527. 
Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  347. 
Romantic  life  of  a  naturalist,  404. 
Russian  vessels  in  limbo,  317. 

Sabbath  observance,  188. 
Saint  Catherine's,  346. 
Saint  Vincent,  312. 
San  Domingo,  187. 
San  Francisco  do  Sul,  325. 
San  Paulo,  361. 

history  of,  366. 
San  Sebastian,  307. 
Sanitary  condition  of  Brazil,  12a. 
Santo  Aleixo,  '271. 
Santos,  309. 
Schools,  177 
School-teacher,  335. 
Sebastianists,  520. 


640 


Index. 


Senhor  Josfi  and  a  little  difficulty,  534,  525. 

Serra  do  Cubitao,  355. 

Sertanejo  and  market-scene,  52-1. 

Shells  and  Imttei-flies,  346. 

Sketch  of  the  A'ergueiros,  407. 

Skilful  negroes,  498. 

Slavery,  132. 

Slave-trade,  483. 

Societies,  261. 

Southern  provinces,  303. 

Sijeculations  in  town-lots,  279. 

Star-Spangled  Banner,  426. 

Statesmen  of  Brazil,  186. 

Stingless  bees  and  sour  honey,  455. 

Sugar  and  cotton  mart,  525. 

Survey  of  the  La  Plata,  467. 

Sweet  lemons,  439. 

Swiss  bachelors,  287. 

Sydney  Smith's  ''  Immortal,"  273. 

Tapioca,  191. 

Tapir,  288. 

Tasso  gold-mine.  Appendix  H,  624. 

Temperature  and  periodical  rains,  530,  531. 

Terrestrial  paradise,  367. 

Thermometrical  tables  of   Kio  de  Janeiro  and 

Para,  Appendix  K,  634. 
Tijuca,  205. 

Todd's  Students'  Manual,  2S7. 
ToUing-bell  bird,  331. 


Toucan,  291. 

Travelled  trunk,  329. 

Tropeiros,  .360. 

Tupi  Guarani,  470. 

Turtles  and  turtle-egg  butter,  556. 

Ubatuba,  305. 
Umbrella-bird,  559. 

United  States  and  Brazil  mail  steamers,  197,  and 
Appendix  L,  636. 

Valencia,  498. 
Vampire  bat,  504,  503,  506. 
Vergueiro,  378. 
Vesper  hours,  442. 
Victoria  Kegia,  571. 
View  from  Inga,  192. 
Village  cemetery,  339. 
Visionary  hotel-keeper,  365. 
Visit  to  Feijo,  380. 
Volcano,  Appendix  J,  633. 

White  ants  obedient  to  the  Church,  443. 
Wonderful  image  of  St.  Anthony,  494,  496. 
Wreck  of  the  frigate  Thetis,  4&1. 

Yankee  Doodle,  47. 
Ybecaba,  407. 
Youth  rcPiwed,  239. 
Ypiranga,  361. 


THE    END. 


BTEEEOTTPED   BT   L.  JOHNSON  k   00. 
PHILADELPHIA. 


Tn^     ^^'^o^yMTION  DEPARTMENT 


10 

LOAN  PERIOD  1    (2 
HOME  USE 


202  Main  Librnrv 


f'l'??rirL^„«l«^<='^^"'^  AFTER  7  DAYS 


mon  n   oans  may  be  renewed  by  callma  642  ?4ns 


Desk 


DUEASSTAMPgP  BELOW 

MAY  1 7  1980 


KCCIR.     JUN  0  6 


N0V251983 


M^fs^g^^ 


^n^Ti^ly— 


''^^^ Mi^^inW 


^^^^r^nss 


liM'^'^     ■r.t^i:     1    ?. 


FORM  .0.  OD.  «,.,  3ro""^'B7R?^^™r.o""^^^^ 


®S 


GENERAL  LIBRARY  -  U.C.  BERKELEY 


B0DD73T613 


^       4 


THE  UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  UBRARY 


